Wood has long been one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials. Therefore, it is used in repair and construction. It has a high level of decorativeness, which is why consumers often choose it to decorate their apartments and houses. However, wood is a "living" material. Therefore, it needs a treatment that prevents spoilage and decay. Wood can be processed using synthetic means and folk methods. They will be discussed in the article.

Using folk methods

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out folk remedies... They have many advantages over synthetic formulations. Such processing costs less. It is environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic. It is also available to any home craftsman.

Wood can be treated with propolis and sunflower oil. For this, materials are taken in a 1: 3 ratio. They should be mixed well and applied to a surface that has been previously cleaned of dust with a soft sponge. This method of protecting wood from moisture and decay is good because it is as strong as possible and helps to exclude the formation of microorganisms. However, it has one big drawback, which is that the material acquires an increased flammability. Therefore, it should be taken into account whether it is advisable to use such an impregnation in each individual case.

Quite often, consumers use wood for processing inkstone... To do this, you should purchase a ready-made solution that mixes well. A soft sponge or rag is dipped in it, with which pure wood is impregnated.

Protection of wood from moisture and decay with iron sulfate is ideal for round logs, since the tool is not too expensive. It is also extremely effective. With strong impregnation, the material will be ready to serve for a rather long time, without providing for additional protection work. The disadvantage of this tool is only long drying.

Wood impregnated with iron vitriol should be left for outdoors, while it is necessary to exclude the impact on the material sun rays... You can use a special canopy for this. The material is left to dry from a week to a month.

Use of bitumen and automotive oil

Another excellent option protecting wood from moisture and rotting with your own hands is the use of bitumen. This method is effective, but from the point of view of environmental friendliness, it is not completely safe. This is due to the fact that concrete has the properties of emitting harmful substances when heated. For this reason, the use of bitumen is not always recommended.

Does not apply to completely ecological materials and car oil. However, it is widely used for woodworking. The oil is able to protect against rot, mold and bark beetle, but it will not exclude fire, but will only contribute to this when exposed to flame. That's why this remedy not always applicable.

Using the Finnish method

The protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out using the Finnish method. It is expressed in the use of the following materials:

• salt;
• flour;
• water;
• iron sulfate;
• dry slaked lime.

The method is harmless, but it is used to process the material that forms the basis of fences and roofs. The composition has unique properties, which exclude its rapid washing out with water. To prepare the mixture, the components must be mixed to make a paste. Most of it will be flour and water. The composition is heated over low heat, after which it is applied to the wood in warm form in two layers. After the first layer has completely absorbed and dried, you can start applying the second.

Using water-soluble antiseptics

Protection of wood from moisture and decay can be carried out with water-soluble antiseptics. They are able to create a kind of barrier on the surface, but they are washed out from constant contact with water. Therefore, after application, such a mixture will have to be periodically renewed.

Among other similar solutions, one can single out ammonium and sodium silicofluorides, which are odorless powders. They become transparent upon contact with water. Impregnation with their help must be carried out very carefully so that the composition is completely penetrated into the fibers.

Another treatment option is sodium fluoride. It is a white powder and can be easily washed off with water. This substance has one big advantage, which is that it does not corrode the metal that can be in wood. If you want to protect wood from rotting and moisture, you can use imported substances, which are based on the following components:

• zinc;
• chlorine;
• sodium;
• borax potassium.

Such mixtures are more expensive, but they perfectly protect the wood. It is not recommended to use them in residential premises, as they are not so environmentally friendly and can emit toxic substances.

Use of organic and oil pastes

In addition to the above antiseptics, you can use special organic substances and pastes. They consist of water-soluble antiseptics, silicon fluorides and binding components. The materials are resistant to moisture, so they can be used for processing external wooden structures... Over time, the paste is washed out, so it must be periodically applied to the base.

For better protection of structures after processing, they should be covered with a building waterproofing film... Protection of wood from decay and moisture can be carried out with oil antiseptics. This should include technical oils that are toxic. Among their main advantages are high antiseptic properties.

The material is not washed out by water and protects the wood from almost all types of fungus. Oil-type compositions have a pungent odor and a dark brown color. In a residential area, such an approach for protection is impractical, while oil antiseptics are excellent for piles, utility pillars and bridge supports.

The use of drying oil

The protection of wood from moisture and rotting with drying oil can also be carried out. For this, some varieties of the mentioned composition are used. Among others, semi-natural mixtures should be distinguished, which allow the formation of a hard film with a high gloss level on the surface. The base becomes water resistant. Semi-natural drying oil is good because it can be used in combination with paints and varnishes or as a primer.

Modifiers are added to the combined formulations that improve the quality of the mixture. Combined drying oils can be used not only to protect wood, but also as a preparation before applying paint or plaster. Protecting wood from moisture and decay with your own hands using drying oil, you should not forget that the liquid will dry out within a day or more. A coat of paint or plaster should not be applied during this period. Synthetic drying oils can be used for impregnation, and also act as a basis for diluting dark oil paints. Synthetic drying oil is excellent for external processing.

Products for wood in contact with the ground

Protection of wood from moisture and rotting in the ground can be carried out by means of NEOMID 430 Eco. It is suitable for creating a reliable barrier on the surface of a material that is constantly in contact with the ground during operation. This substance is an anti-fungal antiseptic with indelible properties.

The material can be exposed not only to contact with the soil, but also to the effects of soil salts, as well as atmospheric precipitation. The compound can also be used to cover external walls, bearing structures beams, ceilings, logs and beams. Excellent mixture for door blocks and window openings.

This wood protection agent against moisture and decay can be applied to truss systems, fences and hedges, as well as structural elements that are exposed to difficult weather conditions and low temperatures... The described impregnation is radical. It is suitable for difficult operating conditions.

Antiseptic impregnation "Senezh"

To protect wood from rotting and moisture, "Senezh" can be used. This antiseptic impregnation has a filter that reduces the exposure of the material to sunlight. The composition is transparent. It is suitable for new and previously sanitized walls. Among the main properties, one can single out the absorbency into the wood fibers and the formation of a weather-resistant polymer coating, which is distinguished by dirt and water repellency.

The number of layers applied can vary from 1 to 3. Approximately 60 g of the composition will be required per one square meter in a single layer application. To work for impregnation, you can use a roller, brush or spray. On touch, such protection dries up within one hour, while the base can be used three days after application.

Protection of wood inside the bath

When choosing to protect wood from moisture and decay in a sauna, you should pay attention to Tikkurila Supi Arctic. This acrylic copolymer belongs to the M1 environmental class. Water is used as a solvent. The product is applied with a brush to a dry surface, where a film forms, which excludes the absorption of moisture and dirt.

Another colorless impregnation is Tikkurila Supi Saunasuoya. It has a subtle smell and contains anti-mold components. The main task is to protect the ceiling and walls in the rooms of the bath with high humidity. This mixture also applies to environmentally friendly materials, therefore, it is not dangerous to humans.

The best bath products

By choosing better protection wood from moisture and decay, you should pay attention to Teknos Sauna-nature. This product has a creamy consistency and a subtle smell. Excellent for protecting wood inside saunas and baths, including steam rooms. The solvent is water. The mixture can be tinted in different colors.

On the basis of acrylic resins, Belinka Interier Sauna is made, which has water and special additives among the ingredients. This colorless preservative is used for wood interiors. The material has a low odor, and the color of the surface does not change after the formation of the film. The texture only stands out.

It is necessary to use the composition by applying it in two layers with a spray, roller or brush. The first coat will dry within 2 hours, the next coat can be applied after three hours. This impregnation has a good value for money.

“Senezh Sauna” is made on the basis of acrylic resins. This mixture contains special components and water. The transparent protective agent does not contain solvents and prevents contamination from settling on the surface. Fungus and insects do not penetrate inside. The protective agent is applied to the previously cleaned surface with a brush, velor or foam roller. You can use a spray gun for convenience. The manufacturer recommends applying layers in the amount of 1 or 2. This applies to the steam room. If wood processing is carried out in other rooms of the bath, then the number of layers can be increased to three.

Finally

Before proceeding with the protection of wood, it is necessary to select the means. They can be designed to exclude material contact with moisture or soil. There are compounds on sale that allow you to provide comprehensive protection. If you want to choose an environmentally friendly mixture, then it is better to use folk remedies, but factory-made impregnations are becoming more effective solutions.

Wood is a durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material that is successfully used for the construction of private houses and baths on land plots. Despite the demand and excellent performance characteristics, it has a significant drawback - high hygroscopicity and susceptibility to decay. To prevent the possible destruction of wood fibers, high-quality and timely processing of wood from decay and moisture is required.

Causes of rotting wood

The main negative factor leading to the destruction of wood is the development of mold and pathogenic microorganisms. Primary contamination of material can occur as a result of a violation of production technology, improper transportation or storage.

The active development of pathogens occurs under the influence of the following factors:

• High air humidity - from 75 to 100%.
• The increased moisture content of the wood is over 18%.
• Insufficient level of air exchange in the storage.
• Significant temperature changes.
• Prolonged direct contact with the ground.
• Wind load, exposure to precipitation and sunlight.

Wood pretreatment

In order to properly process wood, it is necessary to take into account the main signs of the destructive state of the material. The decay process begins when a bar or log is infected with a fungus (the most dangerous type of mold is a brownie fungus, which destroys even pre-processed material).

The initial stage of the appearance of rot is accompanied by the following signs:

• Changes in the structure of wood, the appearance of softness and looseness.
• Formation of small cracks, chips and damage.
• Change in natural shade.
• The appearance of a characteristic rotten smell.

Proper protection of wood from rotting and moisture significantly extends the service life of the material up to 30 years.

Effective ways to combat increased moisture and decay

There are two effective ways to protect wood from negative factors: antiseptic and conservation.

Conservation involves the application of a protective composition of deep penetration. In this case, the wood is subjected to long-term cold or hot soaking or preservative treatment using a diffuser or autoclave. A similar technology is used in the conditions of industrial material preparation.

Antiseptic treatment provides for the pre-treatment of wood with special means using a roller or spray gun. When choosing an antiseptic, it is important to take into account the design features and conditions of its operation.

For maximum protection of a wooden board, timber or log, antiseptics, impregnations, varnishes and paints on an organic, inorganic and combined basis can be used.

Antiseptic compounds

Wood preservatives are effective when there are already serious foci of mold infestation.

To combat it, the following compositions are used:

1. Water-repellent. Deep penetration compounds are used to protect wood from decay and destruction. They are designed to handle wooden houses, baths and outbuildings.
2. On a water-soluble basis. They are developed on the basis of fluoride and fluorosilicon compounds of boric acid, borax and zinc chloride. Fast drying and safe formulations that can be used to protect surfaces susceptible to moisture.
3. On organic basis... The compositions are intended for the treatment of internal and external elements of wooden structures. Contributes to the formation of a dense water-repellent film.
4. Oil based. After application, they form a dense coating that is resistant to the negative effects of external factors. Compositions are intended for processing dry or pre-dried wood. Application to a damp surface may result in internal degradation of the material.
5. Combined type. Such compositions can be used for any type of wood, provide additional protection against fire.

Impregnation for wood

Moisture-resistant impregnations are designed to protect wood from the negative effects of atmospheric precipitation. They are suitable for external treatment of wooden surfaces of residential buildings, gazebos, baths, fences and outbuildings.

Water-repellent impregnation for wood can be used both as an independent protective agent and in conjunction with fire retardants and deep penetration antiseptic primers.

The composition is able to deeply impregnate the material, providing protection of wood fibers from mold and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, it helps to eliminate small cracks and improve air exchange in the wood.

Oil based fluids

Oily liquids are used for outdoor protection wood from decay and destruction. They are able to protect the surface from the negative effects of atmospheric precipitation due to the formation of a durable water-repellent film.

Oil protection of wood from decay is used to treat dry or pre-dried surfaces. These include the following types of oils: creosote and anthracene, obtained by mechanical processing of coke tar.

Such formulations are moderately safe, capable of releasing not a large number of toxic compounds, therefore they are not suitable for interior work.

Other protective compounds

Also, to protect wood from the negative effects of various factors, combined compositions, paints and varnishes are used.

• Combined compositions are special products designed to protect wood from moisture, temperature extremes and fire. In addition, they increase the resistance of the material to ultraviolet light and biological effects: decay, mold, fungus and insects.
• Paints. They are used for comprehensive protection against damage by microorganisms and mold, as well as to increase the aesthetics and attractiveness of wooden surfaces.
• Lucky. Used to prevent cracking and deformation of wood, provide a matt or glossy surface.

Folk remedies for protecting wood from decay

You can prepare an effective and inexpensive wood preservative yourself from the available components. Here are the most popular recipes for folk remedies:

1. A solution based on silicate glue. To obtain a solution, the glue is diluted with water in the required proportion. The finished mass is spread on the surface to be treated in a thin layer using a wide brush.
2. Aqueous solution based on copper sulfate. To prepare a 5% solution, copper sulfate diluted in water is used, with which wooden structures and elements can be carefully processed.
3. Slaked lime solution. To prepare the solution, 1 part of lime (quicklime) and 3 parts of water are used. The components are mixed in a metal container until a homogeneous mass is obtained, which is applied to the surface with a brush or roller.
4. Flax seed oil. Provides reliable protection against decay, insects and moisture. Processing wood from decay linseed oil performed on a cleaned and dried surface. The oil is resistant to moisture and fire.
5. A mixture based on vinegar and soda. It allows you to eliminate foci of infection from damaged areas of wood. First, the surface is treated with soda, after which it is sprayed with vinegar. Another option involves preparing the essence by diluting soda with vinegar. It is necessary to cover the affected areas with a ready-made solution and stand for 5-10 minutes.
6. Hot resin. The heated resin mass is used to treat external wooden structures - fences, benches, chairs and logs that are in direct contact with the ground.
7. Composition based on potassium dichromate and sulfuric acid. To prepare the composition, 5% potassium and acid solutions are mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. Designed for the treatment of external surfaces of walls and topsoil.
8. Composition based on salt and boric acid. To prepare the composition, 55 g of boric acid and 900 g of rock salt are diluted with a liter of cold water. The wood is processed with the ready-made composition 2-3 times with an interval of 1.5 hours between calls.

All of the above methods are effective if the treatment is clean wood or with a slight degree of damage.

How to apply a protective coating to wood

A technologically effective way to protect wood from decay and destruction is treatment with antiseptics, impregnations, paints and varnishes. There are certain rules that must be followed when carrying out such procedures:

1. In case of direct contact with chemical solutions for wood treatment, it is recommended to use personal protective equipment - gloves, mask and goggles.
2. The surface to be treated is cleaned of dirt, dust, old decorative coating with a metal scraper.
3. The surface is cleaned with a stiff bristled brush or medium-grit sandpaper.
4. The cleaned surface is washed with water without big amount neutral detergent and leave to dry.
5. Before using a specific protective agent, it is necessary to study the instructions for use in detail.
6. Processing is carried out from end parts, cuts, connecting elements and areas with damage.
7. The finished composition is applied in several layers with an interval of 1.5-2 hours to dry each layer.

Additional processing with ready-made compounds to protect against pathogenic microorganisms, mold, moisture and other negative factors significantly increases the level of reliability and service life of wooden structures.

At a young age, I had a chance to prepare an essay about an old salt plant, in which salt was extracted from liquid salt brine by evaporation. The oldest enterprise in Europe is now working with great interruptions, but table salt of its production can be found on the shelves. It was noteworthy that in the museum of the enterprise there were the remains of pipes through which salted brine moved between the workshops of the plant. They were made of wood. And their condition was satisfactory in spite of the hundreds of years that they had lain in the ground. Salt canned hollow pipes made from straight barrels. In folk remedies for processing and protection of wood from rotting and bugs salt is also used today. Here are some recipes that still live not due to efficiency, but in spite of chemicals protection.

Controversial and proven methods of wood protection

1. Freshly prepared round logs (in the bark, but without branches) are displayed on a vertical overpass with the tops down. A sealed polyethylene bag with a solution of copper sulfate is tied to the butt of the trunk, or a container is installed from which the solution is in contact with the end of the log through a soaked damp cloth. After a while, the saline solution, under the influence of gravity and thanks to the natural movement of the juices in the trunk, will fill the space between the fibers of the log and the protrusion at the lower end. After the solution has penetrated the entire length of the trunk, the workpieces can be laid on natural drying under a canopy, excluding the ingress of moisture and the sun. This seepage is very rarely used. An alternative is a regular seepage bath. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru)
2. The following folk method, when studied in detail, looks fantastic and impracticable, but for the sake of principle I will quote him: “One of the effective, environmentally friendly (but alas, not recommended) means of processing logs, lower crowns or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis ... Wooden houses already 50-70 years old, and the logs, and the floors in general, are in excellent condition. Now many are advised to handle the logs and strapping as well. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru). What can be said about this method. It looks more like fantasies and theoretical assumptions, because it is impossible to dissolve paraffin or wax in oil. Most likely, the author had in mind the separate use of such agents as oil for impregnation and rubbing with wax. I already wrote about this method in the article about the processing of shelves in the steam room of the bath
3. A very common way to protect fences in the West is Finnish squad for coloring it is made from the following available components: any flour - rye or wheat - 800 g, iron vitriol - 1.5 kg, kitchen salt - 400 g, dry slaked lime - 1.6 kg, water - 10 liters.
   This whole mixture available materials it is prepared as a jelly or paste for gluing wallpaper. Stirring cold water is gradually added to the flour, bringing the mixture to the consistency of sour cream. Half of the water (5L) is heated and topped up while hot. The finished paste is filtered and heated while stirring. When cooking, salt and vitriol are gradually added. The last is to stir dry slaked lime or lime pigment. Apply the lushe solution warm in 2 layers after the first treatment has dried. According to the testimony of old masters, such wood processing lasts for up to 15 years.
4. Conifers are the most resistant to decay and therefore processing with birch tar or spruce resin is the oldest and most proven method. These resinous compounds have a high degree of protection against fungi and bugs, but they are very easily soiled, sticky, and have a strong odor. Wood cannot be processed on top of them - paint, sand, etc. For open fire, this treatment is flammable. Therefore, the underground parts of wooden structures are treated with tar and sap and are not used for internal work.
5. Means of protection - used car oil (working off). Today it is the most common method of protecting wooden structures in rural areas for non-residential structures. Development has one of the most important factor benefits - free. It is better to apply it in a heated state several times, allowing it to be absorbed. The ends and slots are impregnated with particular care. For greater reliability, the mining was poured onto the bottom of the pits, and after digging in the pillar, it was also poured around it. 90% of the composition of the mining is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. In addition, there is a lot of soot in working out - a protective pigment against destructive ultraviolet radiation sun. Some of the acid salts kill any fungus in the wood. Disadvantages - very easily soiled and has a mourning color.
   Iron (copper) vitriol releases toxic substances when heated. When ingested, it causes disorders of the gastrointestinal tract, irritates the skin and mucous membranes.
6. Today, the method of processing with hot bitumen or tar continues to be used. Heated and stirred in diesel fuel - they are considered the best means for processing underground wooden structures. In wooden construction, such coatings are used to protect the first crown or frame of log cabins. Today, bituminous impregnations and mastics are produced.
7. Oils and drying oils are hardly folk remedies. They form the basis for the production of paints and varnishes. Therefore, they possess good properties: do not crack and peel off. Varnishes last longer. It is better to protect the wood with hot drying oils or oils to increase the penetration depth. The fluidity of such wood protection products in a hot state - much more than in a cold one.
8. In a dry tree, water spreads most rapidly from the end through the capillaries. Therefore, in one of the methods of protecting the ends of parts, "riveting" by blows of a rubber or wooden hammer of the surface of the end is used. Capillaries in such a place are destroyed and prevent easy evaporation of moisture. This keeps the ends stronger and prevents them from cracking. Additional protection can be added to the surface wooden parts by firing blowtorch... A thin layer of charred wood has bactericidal properties, in addition, capillaries are additionally destroyed.

Causes of wood destruction

The structure of the wood resembles a bundle of thin tubes - capillaries along the trunk. These capillary fibers are composed of the basis of wood - cellulose (cellulose). Over time, fiber tends to break down into poly- and disaccharides, alcohols, aldehydes and organic acids under the influence of enzymes. Coniferous (and to a lesser extent deciduous) species, in addition to fiber, contain lignin - organic matter similar to phenol. And phenolic resins are good antibacterial agents. To make wood resistant to harmful bacteria, you need lignin in its composition! Removing lignin from wood is the cause of decay and destruction of wood.

The enzymes of saprophytic fungi (tinder fungi, mushrooms and oyster mushrooms), as well as a small number of putrefactive fungi and bacteria, are especially good at destroying lignin. Insects such as ants, woodworms and some worms cohabit with harmful fungi and bacteria. They grind wood fibers mechanically and promote active fermentation of cellulose and lignin breakdown. Such processes are especially good at high humidity.

You need to know the enemy by sight in order to organize the protection of wood with folk remedies

The worst enemy of the tree is the white mushroom house. Sometimes it resembles ordinary mold, which makes it impossible to correctly establish the cause of the damage to the wood. Under certain conditions, it can "gobble" an oak floor in just one month! Therefore, in the old days, houses affected by such a fungus were burned. to protect other wooden buildings.

Antiseptics and impregnations based on modern achievements of biochemists are not folk wood protection and treatment agent- but the most effective and affordable building materials on the market.

1. 
   

   Environmentally friendly methods of wood protection are of interest. For example, I know that whitewashed lime is resistant to decay. Clay also helps. And how to apply these or those methods correctly?

2. 
   

   Wood - combustible material... Its protection from fire is carried out by coating, painting, impregnation, plastering. It is good to combine fire-fighting and antiseptic wood processing. For these purposes, antiseptics are introduced into the impregnating compositions. Most optimal conditions for wood impregnation - wood moisture up to 25%, the temperature of the impregnation composition - 70-80 ° C. For better impregnation tattoos are made on its surface. When choosing a method of protecting a specific wood product, the conditions in which this product will be located are taken into account (for example, wooden structures near stoves and pipes). In any case, with prolonged heating, the temperature of the tree should not exceed + 50 ° C. For normally dried wood, the ignition temperature from an open flame is 270-290 ° C, and when heated without an open flame - 350-480 ° C, but if the wood is heated for a long time time (up to 24 hours in a row), then spontaneous combustion can occur from a temperature of no more than 170 ° C.
   Coating. Wood is coated with the following compounds until a protective layer of at least 2-3 mm is obtained. Clay-salt-water coating is prepared from clay, table salt and water. Ratio: clay - 74 parts, salt - 4 parts, water - everything else until a creamy mass is obtained. It is usually applied in two coats. Second: superphosphate coating, which is obtained from superphosphate and water in a ratio of 70 parts to 30. It is also applied, as a rule, in two layers, which give a 3 mm layer.

   ATTENTION! When using this type of coating, remember that the prepared portion can be used within 6 hours, then it hardens. And since the first layer will also dry for at least 6 hours, the previously prepared coating will no longer be suitable. Therefore, for the second layer of plaster, the material should be prepared no more than an hour before the first layer is completely dry. Sulfite-clay coating. Its constituent parts are sulfite-alcohol stillage, clay and, of course, water in a ratio of 25:50:25.

   Last edited by a moderator: 11/21/17

3. Registration: 03.12.10 Messages: 2.007 Acknowledgments: 1.423
   

   In any case, with prolonged heating, the temperature of the tree should not exceed + 50 ° C. For normally dried wood, the ignition temperature from an open flame is 270-290 ° C, and when heated without an open flame - 350-480 ° C, but if the wood is heated for a long time time (up to 24 hours in a row), then spontaneous combustion can occur from a temperature of no more than 170 ° C.

   And why not more than +50 gr. heat up if it lights up at a higher temperature?

4. Registration: 01/15/10 Messages: 1.555 Acknowledgments: 1.905

   Chance

   Build UWB, frame houses

   Chance Build USHP, frame houses

   I read somewhere that an addition to an antiseptic (for example, a solution of lime, clay, etc.) of ordinary soda (or soda ash) gives impregnation with fire protection properties. When heated, carbon dioxide is released.
   Moreover, a boric acid solution is used for antiseptic treatment ...

5. Registration: 12/16/07 Messages: 1.905 Acknowledgments: 417
   
6. Registration: 27.03.10 Messages: 3.366 Acknowledgments: 995 Bair Mini-developer blocked
   

   Of course a very interesting topic. The secrets of the old masters should never be forgotten. But I wonder what percentage of homeowners will agree to coat the inside of their newly built house with clay? How many people will refuse to impregnate wood with Finnish protective compounds or, at worst, Senezh, and prefer a saline solution?

   A poll in this topic would be very interesting about whether people agree to replace modern wood protection products with folk ones?

   I think, why smear the interior wood? Coat those in the risk zone (underground, ceilings). Well, then you can smear it under the facade cladding (with insulation).

7. Registration: 12/16/07 Messages: 1.905 Acknowledgments: 417
   

   I'm not talking about the front. I just wonder how many people agree to replace modern means with folk remedies.

   vic_ag64 said:

   The maximum period of validity of Senezh is 12 years. This is subject to museum storage. V real life I would give him three years at most.

   I am in no way defending Senezh. And not against folk remedies. It's just very interesting where you got the figures about the 12-year maximum period of validity of Senezh. The manufacturer claims 30-35 years in especially difficult conditions. So the manufacturer is lying?

8. Registration: 23.12.09 Messages: 11.325 Thanks: 7.214 leskos Blocked Guest
9. Registration: 23.12.09 Messages: 11.325 Thanks: 7.214 leskos Blocked Guest
   

   I'm not talking about the front. I just wonder how many people agree to replace modern means with folk remedies.

   And they can agree with the facade only if the house is sheathed.

10. Registration: 09.12.06 Messages: 1.897 Acknowledgments: 2.510
    

    vic_ag64 said:

    Not fit in one post. Well, now something that cannot be found on the Internet and in books. This is electrical stabilization of wood. All methods of wood preservative with salt are quite old, time-tested. The only thing that didn't exist before was electricity. What can be obtained through electrostabilization. The salt solution will evenly decompose into chlorine and sodium under the action of an electric current. Sodium automatically forms alkali with water, chlorine - you know. Chemical decomposition of water also occurs. Thus, for correct selection density of electric current, we can get uniformly impregnated in the mass, antiseptic and dried lumber.

    And in more detail about the technology of such antiseptic treatment, it is very interesting ...

11. Registration: 06/07/08 Messages: 7.226 Acknowledgments: 4.526
12. 
    

    One of the most effective, environmentally friendly (but alas, not recommended) means of processing logs, lower rims or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis. The result of such processing was repeatedly observed by myself. The houses are 50-70 years old, and the lags, and in general, the underground spaces are in excellent condition. Now my friend strongly advises me to handle the logs and strapping as well.

13. Registration: 20.06.09 Messages: 87 Acknowledgments: 71
    

    By the way, there are compositions based on rosin, turpentine and wax or other plasticizers ...

    Knee pain in the elderly treatment with folk remedies

At a young age, I had a chance to prepare an essay about an old salt plant, in which salt was extracted from liquid salt brine by evaporation. The oldest enterprise in Europe is now working with great interruptions, but table salt of its production can be found on the shelves. It was noteworthy that in the museum of the enterprise there were the remains of pipes through which salted brine moved between the workshops of the plant. They were made of wood. And their condition was satisfactory in spite of the hundreds of years that they had lain in the ground. Salt canned hollow pipes made from straight barrels. In folk remedies for processing and protection of wood from rotting and bugs salt is also used today. Here are some recipes that still live not because of their effectiveness, but in spite of chemical remedies.

Controversial and proven methods of wood protection

1. Freshly prepared round logs (in bark, but without branches) are displayed on a vertical overpass with the tops down. A sealed polyethylene bag with a solution of copper sulfate is tied to the butt of the trunk, or a container is installed from which the solution is in contact with the end of the log through a soaked damp cloth. After a while, the saline solution, under the influence of gravity and thanks to the natural movement of the juices in the trunk, will fill the space between the fibers of the log and the protrusion at the lower end. After the solution has penetrated the entire length of the trunk, the workpieces can be laid on natural drying under a canopy, excluding the ingress of moisture and the sun. This seepage is very rarely used. An alternative is a regular seepage bath. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru)
2. The following folk method, when studied in detail, looks fantastic and impracticable, but for the sake of principle I will quote him: “One of the effective, environmentally friendly (but alas, not recommended) means of processing logs, lower crowns or strapping are compositions based on natural wax with the addition of oil and propolis ... The wooden houses are already 50-70 years old, and the logs, and the floors in general, are in excellent condition. Now many are advised to handle the logs and strapping as well. (Source - from the experience of members of the forum Forumhouse.ru). What can be said about this method. It looks more like fantasies and theoretical assumptions, because it is impossible to dissolve paraffin or wax in oil. Most likely, the author had in mind the separate use of such agents as oil for impregnation and rubbing with wax. I already wrote about this method in an article about
3. A very common way to protect fences in the West - the Finnish composition for painting is made from the following available components: any flour - rye or wheat - 800 g, iron vitriol - 1.5 kg, kitchen salt - 400 g, dry slaked lime - 1.6 kg , water - 10 liters.
   This whole mixture of available materials is prepared as jelly or paste for wallpapering. Stirring cold water is gradually added to the flour, bringing the mixture to the consistency of sour cream. Half of the water (5L) is heated and topped up while hot. The finished paste is filtered and heated, stirring. When cooking, salt and vitriol are gradually added. The last is to stir dry slaked lime or lime pigment. Apply the lushe solution warm in 2 layers after the first treatment has dried. According to the testimony of old masters, such wood processing lasts up to 15 years.
4. Conifers are the most resistant to decay and therefore processing with birch tar or spruce resin is the oldest and most proven method. These resinous compounds have a high degree of protection against fungi and bugs, but they are very easily soiled, sticky, and have a strong odor. Wood cannot be processed on top of them - paint, sand, etc. For open fire, this treatment is flammable. Therefore, the underground parts of wooden structures are treated with tar and sap and are not used for internal work.
5. Means of protection - used car oil (working off). Today it is the most common method of protecting wooden structures in rural areas for non-residential structures. Development has one of the most important advantage factors - free. It is better to apply it in a heated state several times, allowing it to be absorbed. The ends and slots are impregnated with particular care. For greater reliability, the mining was poured onto the bottom of the pits, and after digging in the pillar, it was also poured around it. 90% of the composition of the mining is mineral oil - a good water-repellent antiseptic. In addition, there is a lot of soot in working out - a protective pigment from the destructive ultraviolet radiation of the sun. Some of the acid salts kill any fungus in the wood. Disadvantages - very easily soiled and has a mourning color.
   Iron (copper) vitriol releases toxic substances when heated. When ingested, it causes disorders of the gastrointestinal tract, irritates the skin and mucous membranes.
6. Today, the method of processing with hot bitumen or tar continues to be used. Heated and stirred in diesel fuel - they are considered the best means for processing underground wooden structures. In wooden construction, such coatings are used to protect the first crown or frame of log cabins. Today, bituminous impregnations and mastics are produced.
7. Oils and drying oils are hardly folk remedies. They form the basis for the production of paints and varnishes. Therefore, they have good properties: they do not crack and flake off. Varnishes last longer. It is better to protect the wood with hot drying oils or oils to increase the penetration depth. The fluidity of such wood protection products in a hot state - much more than in a cold one.
8. In a dry tree, water spreads most rapidly from the end through the capillaries. Therefore, in one of the methods of protecting the ends of parts, "riveting" by blows of a rubber or wooden hammer of the surface of the end is used. Capillaries in such a place are destroyed and prevent easy evaporation of moisture. This keeps the ends stronger and prevents them from cracking. Additional protection can be added to the surface of wooden parts by blowtorch firing. A thin layer of charred wood has bactericidal properties; in addition, capillaries are additionally destroyed.

Causes of wood destruction

The structure of the wood resembles a bundle of thin tubes - capillaries along the trunk. These capillary fibers are composed of the basis of wood - cellulose (cellulose). Over time, fiber tends to break down into poly- and disaccharides, alcohols, aldehydes and organic acids under the influence of enzymes. Coniferous (and to a lesser extent deciduous) species, in addition to fiber, contain lignin - an organic substance similar to phenol. And phenolic resins are good antibacterial agents. To make wood resistant to harmful bacteria, you need lignin in its composition! Removing lignin from wood is the cause of decay and destruction of wood.

The enzymes of saprophytic fungi (tinder fungi, mushrooms and oyster mushrooms), as well as a small number of putrefactive fungi and bacteria, are especially good at destroying lignin. Insects such as ants, woodworms and some worms cohabit with harmful fungi and bacteria. They grind wood fibers mechanically and promote active fermentation of cellulose and lignin breakdown. Such processes are especially good at high humidity.

You need to know the enemy by sight in order to organize the protection of wood with folk remedies

The worst enemy of the tree is the white mushroom house. Sometimes it resembles ordinary mold, which makes it impossible to correctly establish the cause of the damage to the wood. Under certain conditions, it can "gobble" an oak floor in just one month! Therefore, in the old days, houses affected by such a fungus were burned. to protect other wooden buildings.

Antiseptics and impregnations based on modern achievements of biochemists are not folk wood protection and treatment agent- but the most effective and affordable building materials on the market.

A wooden house is an environmentally friendly and safe housing that will never lose popularity. Natural wood does not emit toxic hazardous substances, has a pleasant forest scent and promotes a rapid exchange of oxygen. In such a house there is always fresh air, a comfortable environment and a cozy atmosphere.

The logs are easy to stack, which reduces installation time. Due to their low weight, they do not require a deep, expensive foundation. And thanks to the natural beauty and aesthetics of the materials, no serious and expensive finishing is required.

However, wooden houses also have a significant disadvantage. Wood is a natural material that is negatively affected the environment... The sun's rays, moisture and precipitation, insects lead to the fact that the material gradually darkens and collapses. Mold, cracks and fungus appear, and the structure loses initial appearance... To avoid these problems, it is necessary to process the log house inside and outside using various means.

Why do you need to process a log house from the outside

• Protects wood from destruction;
• For a long time retains the original appearance of a bath or a log house;
• Prevents the appearance of fungus and rot;
• Prevents insects and moisture;
• Increases service life wooden house or baths;
• Improves the aesthetic qualities of logs, if necessary, you can change the appearance of the facade, get the desired color, shade or shine;
• Fire retardant treatment is required for a log house, as fire is a significant threat to wood.

What means to choose

Today the market offers a lot of tools for treating a log house outside and inside. It is important that they are environmentally friendly and retain the natural properties of wood. In addition, the products must fulfill the protective functions of the tree from moisture, insects and other negative factors. Decorative properties are also of great importance. There are four main groups of funds that will be needed to process the outside of the house:

1. Antiseptics are deeply absorbed into the wood, increasing the resistance of the logs to moisture and microbes. Antiseptic agents include wax, protective varnish and oils. They destroy mold and blue.
2. Flame retardants prevent the spread of fire. At elevated temperatures, the composition of the product comes out of the logs and forms a protective film. Such means prevent instant ignition and resist open fire for several hours.
3. Preservative solutions and impregnations keep the wood in good condition. Special impregnating materials keep the surface smooth and even and prevent cracking. And film-forming compounds also create a water-repellent barrier. For these purposes, a primer or wood oils are suitable.
4. Protective finishing agents are mainly intended for decorating wood. These are paints and varnishes for wood. They protect wooden surface from fading and dirt. There are also special bleaching compounds that will prevent the wood from darkening over time.

Do not choose one product that will immediately protect against mold and rot, insects and fire, while still performing decorative functions. Practice proves that such impregnations are not very effective. To achieve a high-quality and durable result, it is better to use fire retardants, antiseptics and decorative paints and varnishes separately.

Top best products for outdoor wood treatment

Brand	Characteristic	Price
Senezh (Russia)	Difficult to wash out high-class formulations in 20 types, including whitening and renewing formulations, antiseptics for baths, houses and gazebos; protect from fire, pests and moisture, provides protection for more than 10 years!	from 380 rubles (5kg)
Belinka (Slovenia)	Natural and safe means high efficiency, protect from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, insects and fire, a wide range of products	from 400 rubles (1 liter)
Pinotex (Estonia)	Polymer-based products protect against mold and moisture, fungus and insects, withstand sharp drops temperatures, therefore optimal for external processing	from 280 rubles (1 l)
Neomid (Russia)	Effective impregnation for houses, saunas and wooden floors, protects the surface from moisture for 5-7 years, produces special products for processing ends, good combination price quality	from 200 rubles (1 l)
Tikkurila (Finland)	Moisture-resistant products, create a thin protective film and provide reliable protection against precipitation, are of high quality and positive reviews	from 250 rubles (1l)
Aquatex (Russia)	Produced in the form of a primer and impregnation, colorless and tinted versions (15 colors), protects against fungus, ultraviolet radiation and moisture, suitable for middle-class wood	from 200 rubles (1 l)
Siteks (Russia)	Suitable for any type of wood, protects logs from moisture, retains the appearance of the structure for 10 years, colorless and tinted options (12 colors)	from 200 rubles (1 l)

How to properly process a log house outside

• For the first time, the blockhouse is treated with antiseptics inside and outside immediately after assembly. Pay special attention to the processing of ends and logs in contact with the foundation. Antiseptics are applied in two layers;
• Primary treatment should not be desired at temperatures below 10-12 degrees!;
• The next processing is done after the logs have completely dried and the log house has shrunk. This takes 6-12 months. This finish implies the final complex and multi-layer processing of the house, which will ensure the protection of the log for a long time. It is important to apply antiseptics to a dry and clean wood surface !;
• Before processing, the logs are sanded to remove the top layer, in which fungus and microbes have gathered during shrinkage. It will remove the defects of the log and level the surface. Sanding of wooden walls is imperative for an old house, since it is important to completely remove the old coating;

• Processing with a brush will take a long time, but it will be of the highest quality, most effective and durable. To speed up the process, spray guns are used. But for processing ends, corners and hard-to-reach places, take only a brush;
• First of all, antiseptic agents are applied in two or three layers. After drying, the tree is treated with fire retardants in one or two layers and also left to dry. The next layer is a primer. It will protect the wood from cracking and level the walls;
• Treat the ends carefully. These parts of the logs absorb moisture faster than others and are therefore more susceptible to rotting. To avoid this, each end processing is done in 4-5 layers;
• The final stage is a decorative coating that will preserve the appearance of the house and protect the surface from sunlight. With the help of colored paints and varnishes, a certain color or shade, matte or glossy shine is achieved. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, use transparent paints and varnishes.

How and how to paint a log house outside

Painting is the final stage of processing a log house outside and inside. Today there are many different colors and varnishes. For exterior painting choose coarse and persistent formulations. Consider the popular types of funds:

• Glazing transparent varnishes will preserve the color and accentuate the texture of the wood, protect the surface from moisture, mold and rot;
• Covering opaque varnishes will help to achieve the desired shine and shade, protect against insects, high humidity and ultraviolet radiation;
• Oil paints penetrate deeply into the structure of the log, keep the surface from moisture and dirt. But they dry for a long time (two weeks) and eventually lose their color !;
• Water-based acrylic paints and varnishes are natural, safe products that provide a dense, elastic coating. They protect against moisture, cracking and fungus. Such compositions give the tree “breathe”, but are expensive;
• Alkyd varnishes form a hard and even surface, retain their color for a long time and provide protection from moisture. However, such means do not allow the wood to “breathe”, which over time causes the log to dry out and crack;
• Yacht varnish is suitable for places with high humidity and high rainfall. It is a reliable protection against moisture, which is not affected by weather and temperature extremes. Such varnish does not fade and prevents yellowing of the wood, however, it emits an unpleasant odor during painting;
• Stain - available and cheap way finishing log cabins inside and outside. It protects against fungus and pests, does not disturb the wood grain and makes the color more intense. However, the stain requires subsequent varnishing;
• Oils and wax are environmentally friendly safe products that are deeply absorbed into the wood and protect the logs from moisture and dirt. The wax will give the surface a translucent matte sheen.

To paint the log house with high quality, wait until the primer is completely dry. Stir the composition thoroughly before painting. First, paint is applied in two or three layers. Wait until the previous coat is completely dry before applying each new coat. For painting use a roller, for hard-to-reach places, corners and ends - a brush.

When using a spray gun, it is not always possible to achieve an even and smooth coating. In addition, unpainted areas may remain. The last layer apply paints in a thin layer from top to bottom.

After the paint has completely dried, the varnish is applied in two or three layers. For an even coating without build-up, let each layer dry and apply in long, even strokes. For decorative coating, you can use only varnish or only paint. However, the use of both means will consolidate the result and enhance the effect, enhance protection and increase the service life of the wood.

If you do not know which product to use for treating the inside or outside of the house, contact MariSru b for help. The company's masters will help you choose necessary materials, efficiently and quickly carry out the processing and painting of a wooden house or a bath!

Wood is one of the most commonly used materials in construction and furniture production. And in order to serve as long as possible, he needs proper care... There are quite a number of factors that have a bad effect on wood and render it unusable, deteriorating the external qualities of the material or destroying its internal structure. Therefore, it is important to know how and from what to process the tree in order for it to be used as long as possible.

Which leads to decay

Almost all tree species rot without treatment with special substances, because such material contains a certain level of moisture, which, in turn, provides all the conditions for the emergence and reproduction of fungi.

Therefore, using a tree of even the most expensive species, one cannot be sure that over time everything will be as good with its integrity as when buying.

The reason for rotting wood is that such material itself is a breeding ground for a huge number of types of fungi. The risk of their appearance is especially great if the tree is also in constant contact with water or moisture.

How to prevent wood from rotting

To prevent wood from rotting, you must:

• protect it from long-term wetting, since for such a material it is especially important not only not to get wet, but also to dry completely after getting wet. If the tree is constantly in water, it will be difficult to avoid exposure to fungi;
• it is better to use kiln-dried wood... Drying of this material is an indispensable operation for its refinement. Among all types of wood drying, the most effective in terms of protection against decay is precisely chamber drying, that is, the removal of moisture from wood using heat treatment equipment ( drying chambers equipped with ventilation, humidification and heating systems).

It is necessary to understand how rotting threatens your wooden house, bridge, furniture, etc. There are three main types of rot that affects such material:
Any of the above types of rot can contribute to structural damage to wood and its biodegradation.

Classification of wood for resistance to decay and impregnation

In order not to bother with the protection of a wooden house, boat or interior items from rot for a long time, it is important to choose the right material, since they operate different types trees, differing in the level of resistance to rot and even impregnation with agents that protect against it.

By resistance to decay of wood species

According to this criterion, tree species are classified into one of 4 main classes:

1. The most resistant to rot exposure:,.
2. Medium resistant: beech, such representatives of the Pine genus as,.
3. Low-resistance:,.
4. Species that do not have resistance to decay:,.

By impregnation of wood species with protective agents

As for the ability of wood to absorb substances with whose help it is possible to protect the material from decay, this classification consists of the following 3 classes:

1. Materials that are easily impregnated: pine, birch, beech.
2. Raw materials with moderate impregnation: cedar, European larch, hornbeam, oak, maple, linden, aspen, alder.
3. Hardly impregnated: spruce, Siberian larch, fir, ash, elm.

Classification of wood preservatives

The substances used to make the material resistant to fungi can be classified according to the nature of the action, solubility and leachability.

Did you know?If earlier only small residential buildings, churches were worth of wood, now in the USA and Europe construction companies are massively offering projects of 30-storey office centers and apartment buildings built entirely of wood. This trend is associated with the desire to clean up the atmosphere, make eco-friendly large buildings and improve the quality of living in big cities.

Wood preservatives by the nature of the provided action

1. Antiseptic substances: fluorosilicate ammonium, PAF-KSDB paste.
2. Substances that retard ignition and combustion (flame retardants): OFP-9 coverage.
3. Means that have a combined effect (protect from both decay and fire): FBS preparation.

Wood preservatives as solubility

1. Those that dissolve in water: preparation BS-13.
2. Substances soluble in light solvents that are of organic nature (alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, halogenated hydrocarbons, etc.): KATGSH preparation, copper naphthenate preparations.
3. Soluble in oils and heavy petroleum products(different types of fuel, lubricants, raw materials, insulating media): shale oil.

Wood preservatives according to the degree and conditions of washable

1. Substances that are easily washed out: preparation BS-13.
2. Washable: PAF-KL paste, PAF-KSDB paste.
3. Difficult to wash out: sodium pentachlorophenolate, PBS preparation.
4. Indelible: anthracene oil.

In order to correctly determine the best way to protect a tree, you need to know for what and in what conditions products from of this material will be used.

The products are inside the premises and are not exposed to weather conditions and moisture

To protect wooden items that are not exposed to moisture, you can use traditional methods of preventing fungus:

• a mixture of propolis and sunflower oil in a 1: 3 ratio. Apply with a soft sponge to dry, dust-free wood;

Important!After applying a mixture of propolis and oil to the tree, it will become flammable, so make sure that this option is right for you before using this product.

• copper sulfate solution. It must be thoroughly mixed, wet a cloth or sponge with it and soak clean dry wood with it. After impregnation, the wooden product must be well dried for fresh air so that it is sheltered from sunlight. The treated tree will dry out from a week to a month.

Video: how to use copper sulfate to impregnate wood

The products are indoors and not exposed to the weather (especially rain), but moisture can occur

To protect such products, it is better to use water-soluble, washable antiseptics, since there is no constant contact with moisture and, therefore, there is no need to use preparations that are very resistant to water, which, moreover, are toxic and can adversely affect the health of people who are constantly near wood products impregnated or coated with such protective agents.

Products out of contact with the ground, used outdoors, are periodically exposed to atmospheric precipitation

In this case, it is better to use combined action products that are intended for outdoor use and are prepared on a non-aqueous basis. They are not very expensive and, at the same time, perfectly protect the tree from rot that appears due to the effects of natural precipitation.

Did you know?The history of the construction of wooden houses goes back almost 2 millennia. The most ancient building made of wood today is the Horyu-ji Buddhist temple: it is already about 1500 years old. The temple is located in Japan.

Products are constantly in contact with the ground or fresh water, i.e. constantly wetted

The situation is a little different with hedges, pillars and other products that are constantly in contact with the ground, that is, they are often moistened and do not have time to dry out. In such cases, it is better to use products that contain heavy resins: they create a very strong protective film and penetrate deep into the wooden surface.

Constant contact with salt water

Sea water has a more negative effect on wood than ordinary river water, therefore, to ensure the integrity of the material during exposure to salt water or exposure to the latter, it is better to use non-washable products that dissolve in oils or heavy petroleum products.

Mold remedies

The tree can also be damaged by destructive factors. biological origin, among which is mold. It can appear due to high humidity and heat in the room, poor ventilation, summer rains. It is very difficult to get rid of such "ailments", therefore it is better to prevent their occurrence.

Important! Mold is very dangerous to the human body. It can both cause mild allergic reactions and cause the development of asthma, pneumonia, upper respiratory tract, dry cough, stomach upset, skin rashes, headaches, nosebleeds.

To prevent the wood from becoming moldy over time, you can soak it with an aqueous solution of copper sulfate, sodium fluoride, specially prepared borax or chemical fungicides... You can also buy a ready-made solution, for example, "Senezh" or "KSD".

Video: how to handle wood from mold

Fire remedies

The greatest attention should be paid to ensuring fire resistance of wood products, since one of the features of this material is its rapid combustion. In order to protect the house or any other wooden structures or objects from fire, it is best to use fire retardants - impregnations based on aqueous solutions salts and surfactants. Processing with such means can be carried out at all stages of operation.

Wood is a fashionable, practical, environmentally friendly, but rather problematic material. If you do not make its high-quality preliminary processing, then its service life will be insignificant. To prevent the destruction of the wood structure, it is necessary to take a number of measures to protect it. The most commonly used impregnation for wood from moisture and decay. It is also necessary to pay attention to fire safety and insect exposure. This is what will be discussed.

Before processing the tree, so as not to rot, you need to know the nuances that provide the material with an illiquid state. The main provocateur of the occurrence of rot is a fungus, which tirelessly destroys wood. The most insidious is the house fungus. It is capable of destroying even treated surfaces.

To recognize the appearance of a fungus, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

• softening the material;
• the formation of microcracks;
• change in natural color;
• destruction of the original structure.

Excellent conditions for the emergence and spread of harmful fungi are:

• climatic conditions (freezing, constant exposure to moisture, precipitation, direct sunlight);
• direct contact with the ground.

With proper processing of wood from rotting and moisture, it is possible to extend its service life up to three decades. Although, depending on the degree of influence of negative factors, this period can change both in positive and in negative side... You can protect the tree by various means... The most common is the impregnation for wood from moisture and decay.

Antiseptic agents are produced based on chemical components. Their variety is great for construction market... Each product has different properties, so you need to be savvy and choose the right one for wood processing.

Types of wood protection products

When choosing liquids to protect wood from moisture and decay, consumers pay attention to its high efficiency. But, besides this, the substance should not be harmful to human health. Most often, solutions that affect the durability of wood and are able to protect it from negative factors are quite dangerous.

It is absolutely necessary to ignore compounds containing tin and zinc compounds. These are the most poisonous chemical substances... Let's take a closer look at how to process wood to protect it.

Decorative impregnation

Protection of wood from decay and water is the main task of moisture-resistant impregnation. The material processed with such a composition is used for the construction of baths, fences, basements, gazebos, etc. They are used both individually and in combination with bio-primers. The last substance must be used to treat the boards before painting.

The essence of impregnation lies in it deep penetration into the structure of the tree and clogging its pores in this way. When treating wood with a solution, the penetration of moisture into the structure of the tree is limited. But besides this, the impregnation stains wooden crafts and in this way gives them a noble appearance.

Decorative impregnation to protect wood from decay and water penetrates the wood too slowly. It can also be noted that the price for it is considerable.

Oil based product

Cover the boards with an oil-based product to prevent rotting when using their outdoor work. Protection of the board from decay is ensured by the formed film after applying the product to the surface. Moreover, the formed film on the tree soaked in the solution does not allow water to be absorbed, and, therefore, prevents the penetration of the fungus into the structure of the tree.

The disadvantage of such a tool is the fact that a film forms on the surface, and it is not able to protect the tree from exposure to the fungus that already lives inside. The liquid composition of the impregnation is almost non-toxic, therefore it is used to cover wooden elements in houses where people live.

Water based impregnation

Also, to protect the tree from moisture, an impregnation is used, which is well diluted in water. It is absolutely safe, when working with it, there is no strong smell, moreover, it dries quickly. Water-soluble impregnations are used to prevent wood decay and fungus penetration. Despite this, this composition is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity. For example, when building a bath, sauna or cellar.

The components of such solutions are boric acid, zinc chloride and sodium fluoride. They are better suited for wood that is used in the preparation of furniture, the manufacture of door openings, window slopes or frames.

Volatile agent

It is possible to treat wood from decay with products that have an easily volatile substance. The manufacture of formulations is based on the addition of a certain substance to the dye formulations, such as a solvent. Means of this type are not able to penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree, but at the same time they create a film, the strength of which is quite high.

Due to its volatility, the composition is best used for outdoor work, but it is also allowed to use it for internal processing wood in the rooms. The disadvantages of volatile agents include a long drying time for impregnating materials.

Protective clothing for working with antiseptics

Before treating a tree from moisture, you should take care of precautions. When working with volatile impregnations, you must wear a protective mask or respirator.

Protective goggles, closed type, flexible, chemical resistant

Respirator RPG-67 with filters FFP3

Rubber gloves MBS KShchS solutions up to 80% leggings

How to protect a tree with improvised means

You can protect a tree not only in modern ways... Since ancient times, recipes have come to us on how to protect wood from decay using improvised means. Processing wood from decay folk ways also allows you to produce a fairly high quality of protection of the material. Many effective options have come down to our times:

• Coating wood structures with carpentry (silicate) glue, which impregnates boards and other material.
• Pre-treatment of parts of the house that go into the ground and the soil itself with a solution of potassium dichromate with sulfuric acid. The proportions are one to one.
• You can process it with a solution of vinegar and soda. It is more convenient to work with a spray gun.
• Copper sulfate very well protects boards from moisture and decay. The best option is to use a 1% solution.
• The oldest and most effective way to protect wood from moisture and decay is resin. It is heated and coated with elements of wooden structures, which most often come into contact with the ground.
• It is also treated with a solution, which is obtained by mixing boric acid, salt and water in the ratio: for 10 liters of water, 1 part of boric acid and 20 parts of salt. Processing with such a solution is carried out several times.

Important! It should be remembered that with all the folk remedies listed above, you can process wood that has not yet been infected.

On video: how to protect wooden house from decay, moisture and fire.

Modern methods of combating wood decay

Moisture protection modern methods produced in two ways: the process of conservation and treatment with antiseptics. With the method of conservation wood material the process takes quite a long time. In its course, the solution impregnates and corrodes the affected areas. In this case, the board is placed in a container with a solution and soaks for a certain time.

It is possible to carry out diffusion or autoclave impregnation, which is carried out only in the factory.

Antiseptic impregnation involves a treatment that is carried out by applying a special substance to the wood. To do this, use a paint brush, roller or spray. Before soaking, the board is prepared. In accordance with the intended purpose, an impregnation is used that is suitable for the given function.

For example, white spirit can be easily removed from the surface, so it is not recommended to use it in rooms where there is a high degree of humidity or dampness. The question arises - how to protect the wood in this case? Water repellents work best.

Processing rules

Treatment of boards with impregnation does not cause any particular difficulties. However, there are several rules that must be followed strictly to achieve the desired result and preserve your own health:

1. It is imperative to protect all vulnerable parts of the human body that will be in direct contact with the solution (hands: eyes, respiratory organs).
2. Before processing the tree, so as not to rot, it is necessary to prepare it for work: clean it of dust, grease or previously applied paint.
3. The board is carefully processed with a metal bristle brush.
4. It is best to wash the surface with detergents.
5. It is equally important to let the tree dry well.
6. Before soaking the wood, we carefully read the instructions for its use on the package.
7. It is recommended to start with the end parts of the board, cuts and areas that are already damaged.
8. In the case when there is a need to apply the product in several layers, it is necessary to allow time for the complete drying of the previous layer. Usually this period of time is 2-3 hours.

We increase fire resistance

Protecting wood from moisture and rot is not the whole range of work that must be performed before starting operation. One of the weak points of wood structures is its rapid flammability. Therefore, we pay attention to solutions that can slightly increase the degree of fire resistance of wood, the so-called fire retardants. This is especially true in residential buildings.

The essence of fire retardants is that, under the influence of high temperature, they form a film that can delay the ignition of the wood material for some time.

With the help of additional treatments from the effects of all negative factors, it is possible to significantly increase the degree of reliability of a wooden structure. The better to handle, it is up to consumers to decide depending on individual preferences and conditions.