Choosing the technology and material for building a house, many owners give preference to houses from a bar. This decision is due to several positive aspects, including the ability to independently carry out all the necessary work. Consider how the construction of houses from a bar with your own hands should be carried out, so that in the end you get a beautiful and reliable building.

Choosing the right quality wood- the first and one of the most important aspects that determines the success of construction. And since wood, like any other material, has its own characteristics and advantages, it is worthwhile to take a responsible approach to its choice and purchase.

The first characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing wood are its density and strength. For different types of wood, this indicator is different and there are even those that are in no way inferior to metal. Therefore, in the selection process, it is important to pay attention to this, since even small house from a bar must be built so that it can withstand serious loads without problems.

Here are the basic requirements that a good log house must meet:

• walls must be strong, reliable and durable;
• the level of heat and noise insulation should be high enough;
• the project must be drawn up in such a way that the loads do not provoke subsidence and deformation of the walls.

If you decide to build a house from a bar, then it is more than realistic to achieve these indicators. And, nevertheless, you still have to put up with some of the shortcomings of wood. So, for example, a bar has an extremely low level fire safety... In addition, it tends to react negatively to precipitation, partially deforming as a result of their impact.

Important! The process of sedimentary deformation is especially relevant for the first few years of house operation. In the future, if this will be observed, then to a much lesser extent.

It is best to build a house from a bar from conifers trees. Thus, you will receive several advantages at once: the service life of such a bar is quite long, while it is as resistant to decay processes as possible, it has a low weight, which has a positive effect on the foundation and does not crack over time.

Thus, the choice of a suitable material is no less important issue than adherence to the prescribed construction technology. In the buying process, you should pay attention to the quality of the purchased wood, choosing only the best material that can last for many years.

Do-it-yourself log house: which is better, solid, glued or profiled timber?

There are two types of timber: solid and profiled. For the construction of houses, both options are used, but in order to make a choice in favor of the most suitable option it is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Construction of a wooden house from a profiled bar: advantages and disadvantages

In the case of using a profiled beam for the construction, a profile is definitely required. In this case, these can be spikes or crown grooves. With their help, the bar is fastened along the entire length, after which it is polished. Usually, timber for construction is sold already in a completely finished form, so the owner only has to assemble the structure from the provided elements. Here are the advantages of such a solution:

• resistance to deformation of such buildings is extremely high;
• with this technology, costs are significantly reduced;

• the construction technology of such a house is somewhat simpler than in all other cases;
• the surface of the walls is flat, which eliminates the need to additionally sheathe them;
• rain and melt water will not collect inside the walls, so the level of protection against decay can also be called quite high.

Important! In the production process of high-quality profiled timber, certain calculations are made to prevent precipitation from entering the seams between the joints.

The clear and beautiful shape of the material allows you to carry out all the necessary construction work as quickly and efficiently as possible. In addition, such houses are characterized by high level thermal insulation and have an attractive appearance.

After the house from the profiled house is settled, there is no need to spend time and effort to seal the walls. The natural wind protection of the walls of such a house will be quite sufficient, and the thermal insulation also turns out to be quite decent due to the high density of the crown joints.

Of course, like any other material, the profiled bar has its drawbacks. For example, it does not tolerate any atmospheric influences. In addition, the material is extremely easy to ignite and actively supports combustion. In order to somehow reduce these negative factors, wood must be treated with a special protective impregnation.

Important! Due to the influence of natural atmospheric humidity in warm weather, the timber often cracks. Therefore, it is worthwhile to attend to the search for such material, the moisture content of which was initially reduced to at least 20%. This is done using chamber drying technology.

Another important aspect is that the thickness of the walls made of profiled timber is not enough for comfortable living in the rather harsh climate of our country. Therefore, it is best to resort to additional external insulation.

Construction of a wooden house from a bar: the advantages of using a solid bar

Of course, it is worth paying attention to the construction of houses from solid timber. Despite the fact that its appearance is significantly inferior to the first option, it is widely used in construction and has some advantages. One of the main ones is cost. Another important factor- in the process of wood preparation, its natural moisture content is preserved, which significantly reduces the duration of the preparatory stage and eliminates the need for a number of additional measures.

It is somewhat easier to buy a solid bar than any other type, since the production of this material takes significantly less time. In addition, in order to build a high-quality house from a bar, the involvement of special equipment is not required.

But this solution has its drawbacks:

• the surface of the walls will definitely require serious Finishing work, which will increase costs. Most often, such houses are sheathed with siding or clapboard;
• there is still a danger of acquiring low-quality material due to inexperience;

• solid timber is susceptible to fungal attack, since there is no special drying procedure. In part, this can be solved with the help of special impregnations, but this will also entail costs;
• because of the seams between the joints, such a house is blown through quite strongly. Therefore, you will have to think about high-quality thermal insulation in any case;
• very often cracks appear in the wood after shrinkage.

Features of the construction of houses from laminated veneer lumber

Turnkey houses made of laminated veneer lumber are not uncommon today. This wood product is very actively used in construction and is quite suitable for independent project implementation. One of the main advantages of this solution is that the box of the house is being erected quite quickly. At the same time, the walls are extremely durable and capable of withstanding severe loads.

Thanks to the special production technology, you do not have to worry that the glued timber will crack or deform under the weight of the roof, due to the fact that the fibers of the lamellas are directed in different directions. Glued laminated timber can be called an environmentally friendly material. True, there is one subtlety here - during production it is important how high-quality the adhesive composition used was, since it is precisely its components that can provide Negative influence on the health of people living in the house. That is why the price of a house made of laminated veneer lumber should not be too low.

Glued laminated timber is the best resistant to fire. In order for such a house to catch fire, it will take about 10 minutes of continuous exposure to open fire. Also, this type of timber is resistant to the process of decay, as well as the appearance of mold.

Interesting! Insects do not live in the walls made of glue beams, since every detail is carefully dried and fastened very tightly. For the same reason, it does not get inside rainwater and snow.

The main stages and important nuances building a house. Budget based projects various materials and the right ways to save.

Taking into account the cost of building houses from laminated veneer lumber, before starting construction, it is useful to pay attention to what the owners of such buildings say, because only they can provide the most truthful information about the quality and practicality of the operation of such houses.

“We contacted a company that is engaged in the construction of houses from glued laminated timber on a turnkey basis. The construction itself took about 1.5 months. We are living for the second year and have already gone through one winter. I can say that the house is very comfortable. The heat is well preserved, and there are no problems with blowing the wind. "

Vyacheslav, Yaroslavl

“It is not surprising that the cost of a house made of laminated veneer lumber is the highest. While I was studying the options, I read many times that this is the most the best way... Therefore, I built one for myself. In general, wooden houses made of laminated veneer lumber are like a good constructor: it is extremely easy, pleasant to work and everything is very fast. "

Yuri, Krasnodar

Wooden houses from a bar: preparation for self-construction

Having decided which type of timber is more suitable for building your home, you can proceed to preparatory work and procurement of materials. The easiest way is to order a timber of the required size. Then all that remains to be done is to put a box out of it according to the instructions from the manufacturer.

In the process of preparation, be sure to pay attention to the fact that the wood used is of the proper quality. If large cracks (especially through cracks) are detected, the element must be replaced without fail. It is also necessary to conduct an inspection for the presence of traces of insects. In addition, do not forget about the importance of processing the material with antiseptic agents.

In order to carry out all the necessary work on the construction of the structure on your own, you will need a set of tools, among which there must be:

• electric or gasoline saw;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• yardstick;
• puncher;
• axe;
• hammer;
• electric screwdriver;
• nails, screws and other fasteners.

Equally important is the presence of a drawing of a house from a bar. In the process of drawing up detailed plan all necessary calculations... And although all this can be done independently, many people prefer to turn to specialists in order to eliminate the risk of an error, which can entail serious consequences.

On what foundation do you need to build a house from a bar: selection rules

Having prepared all the necessary drawings and materials, you can start laying the foundation of the future home. And in order to choose the most suitable type of foundation in a particular case, it is worth taking into account the following factors:

• characteristics of the soil available on the site;
• calculations that allow you to determine the expected load on the foundation;
• other design features of the house.

Both wooden and concrete foundations can be used as a base. Moreover, they often resort to just the second option, laying out a brick base on top, and already laying out the walls from a bar on top. Although a wooden base is also perfectly acceptable.

The construction of a log house can be carried out on a columnar foundation, as well as on a strip basis. They also resort to both buried and shallow foundations. But given the small total weight of the structure, the base is usually made not too large. Most often, 50-70 cm is enough for the house to stand securely.

How one-story houses are built from a bar: step-by-step instructions for building walls

Building a house from a bar with your own hands without building experience is actually not such a bad idea as it might seem at first glance. It is quite possible to lay it yourself, especially if you decide in advance on the assembly technology. The walls themselves are laid out in rows, simply laying the next layer on the previous one, until the wall reaches the desired size.

The adhesion of the logs to each other is ensured by special grooves. But these places must be additionally insulated to prevent heat loss. And in order to increase the strength of the walls, it is recommended to additionally fasten the beams together with the help of special spikes.

The minimum amount of hassle will be in the case of using untreated pine timber, since due to its low weight, the layout can be done manually without using special equipment.

When erecting walls from a bar on your own, it is worth remembering two basic rules:

• all seams must be caulked in order to reduce the wind blowing of the walls;
• after the walls are laid out, they must be opened with a special compound, which will give them additional strength and fire resistance.

In other respects, one-storey houses from timber: glued, solid or profiled, anyone can build. Simple but effective technology will make the structure strong and reliable.

How to build a house from a bar: features of roof and floor installation

In trying to save money on building a house from a bar, many make a common mistake, not paying due attention to the quality of the roof. Often, cheap materials are used for it, like ondulin. Doing so is strongly discouraged, since the roof is, first of all, safety.

Depending on the possibilities, as well as the individual preferences of the developer, the roof can have the most different kind... It depends on the type of roofing and rafter system. But in any case, each site must be equipped with boards. different sizes, for example, if elements of 150x40 mm were chosen for the rafters, then for the racks and braces you need to take 100x40 mm.

As for the features of the floor arrangement, the main factor here is the choice of the home owners. The main thing is to take care of the proper level of thermal and waterproofing so that the coating does not become unusable soon. The same applies to the installation of the ceiling.

Important! If the house has a basement or basement room, you should pay attention to the issue of its waterproofing. In this case, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material before leveling or pouring the screed.

In order to ensure the proper level of waterproofing in a wooden house, the following materials can be used:

• waterproofing in rolls;
• coating materials;
• filling systems;
• penetrating moisture protection.

Of course, houses from a bar for permanent residence require investments, but it is better to immediately take care of the availability of a high-quality base and roof, so that in the future you do not have to correct the consequences of the mistakes made. The same applies to all materials for thermal and waterproofing.

Features of finishing a house from a bar: photo examples

Having dealt with the features of the technology of building houses from a bar, you should pay attention to some of the nuances finishing... First of all, work is carried out on the installation of interior partitions, windows and doors. After that, the subfloor, insulation and topcoat are laid. Be sure to trim the ceiling.

Important! All work on the laying of communications (water supply, energy supply and heating) must be completed before the start of finishing work.

Concerning exterior decoration, then there are many options: you can leave everything as it is, so that log house looked as natural as possible. But in this case, it is worth making sure that the timber you are using looks attractive enough for this. Another option is to sheathe the walls using siding and then paint it. Lining and other similar materials are used in the same way.

Turnkey log houses: examples, projects, prices and descriptions

Despite the simplicity of the technology, not every site owner wants to tinker with building a house on his own. Therefore, there are special companies that are ready to build a turnkey log house by implementing one of the standard ones or your personal project. Let's consider what the best construction companies are ready to offer their clients.

House from turnkey profiled timber from the DomaTo company

The first typical project of a turnkey log house, the price and quality of which will pleasantly please the customer, is called D1. It covers an area of ​​7x9 m, and its total area is just over 125 m². Such dimensions make it possible to comfortably accommodate the whole family.

This house is made of timber with an attic, that is, in fact, it has 1.5 floors. In addition, the plan provides for a spacious terrace, as well as a spacious balcony on the top floor of the house. V summer time this territory is simply irreplaceable for recreation.

Consider in more detail the technical characteristics and features of this structure:

• initially, the project provides for a columnar foundation, but if desired, the company's specialists are ready to individually calculate a tape or pile-screw base for your home;

• the strapping is made of 100x150 mm timber. Elements of the same size are placed as genital lags, with a step of 90-100 cm;
• for the walls of the first floor, a profiled beam of 95 (145 or 190) mm by 145 mm is used on a jute canvas. Interior partitions made of timber 95x145 mm;
• walls of the second floor - profiled timber 95x145 mm;
• the windows are provided with double glazing. All accessories are also included. Entrance door metal, without accessories;
• for rafters, boards of 40x100 or 150 mm are used, maintaining a step of no more than 90 cm;
• roof of the house - ondulin (it is possible to choose a color: brown, red or green);
• the height of both the first and second floors is 2.5 m. For filing ceilings, lining is used;
• the staircase to the second floor is wooden and can be either one-flight or two-flight.

What exactly will be the price of building a turnkey log house, the company's specialists calculate individually, taking into account many factors, including the individual wishes of customers. The only thing that can be identified with absolute certainty is the cost of materials offered by this company:

• timber 100x150 mm - 744 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm - 806 rubles;
• timber 150x200 mm - 898 rubles.

We can say with confidence that the construction of turnkey log houses may not be the cheapest option, but more than justifies itself, as it saves you from having to do everything yourself.

Helpful advice! Before finally deciding on a company that will build your house, it is advisable to talk with specialists from several companies. You can order free calculations of the cost of construction from them, and then choose the most profitable for yourself.

Summing up, we can say that a house from a bar is great idea, which, in fact, is not so difficult to implement. Almost all the necessary work, if desired, can be carried out independently. You can also contact one of the companies that specializes in this matter and will be able to quickly and efficiently build a house from turnkey laminated veneer lumber.

"Woodstail" - a house made of laminated veneer lumber: photo, description, reviews, cost

To consider in more detail the question of how much it costs to build a house from a bar, you can use this model as an example. The construction company advertises the cost of 1,303,170 rubles. The total area of ​​the house is 118.37 m² (9.7x9.3 m).

So, this price of a house made of laminated veneer lumber from the manufacturer "Kedr" includes the following types of work:

• laying the foundation;
• erection of walls from glued beams with a height of 2.7 m. The assembly technology provides for the use of wooden dowels, which are located at a distance of 1.5 m. In addition, a 5-mm linen-jute canvas is laid between the crowns. All surfaces must be processed protective compound;
• for floors, a waterproofing material is used - gidrotekloizol;
• for overlapping between floors, beams of 50x200 mm are used;
• for the attic floor, a beam of 50x150 mm is used;
• rafters - timber 50x200 mm. make of edged boards 25x100, the step of which is 25 cm. It is used as a roofing material.

Interesting! This company offers its clients an interesting service - weekly photo reports on the work done by e-mail. This allows you to monitor the process, while not wasting time on trips to the construction site.

Turnkey one-storey log houses: project OD-7 8x12

As an example of a one-storey house, consider the project proposed by Domabrus. The price of building a house from a bar in this case directly depends on the thickness of the material used. Customers are offered three options to choose from:

• timber 100x150 mm - 720,000 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm - 806,000 rubles;
• timber 200x150 mm - 900,000 rubles.

Initially, a support-column foundation is provided, however, it is possible to replace it with a pile-screw foundation for a fee. A timber is used for strapping natural moisture 150x150 mm for the 1st row and 150-100 mm for the 2nd row. The lags of the floor are made of 50x150 mm timber with a step from 60 to 70 cm.

As a material for the walls, a timber of natural moisture 90x140 mm is used together with a jute insulation, the thickness of which is 4 mm. For partitions, the same timber is used, but already without insulation. The blockhouse is assembled on wooden birch dowels.

For the ceiling, take a beam of 50x100 mm with a step of 60-70 cm, and then additionally hem the Euro lining of category "B" and roll insulation, which provides the proper level of thermal insulation. The vapor barrier material is laid on both sides. Usually Nanoisol or its analogs are used.

Rafters - timber 50x100 mm, located at a distance of 800 mm. Ondulin is used as a roofing material in one of three colors: brown, cherry or green. The 30-centimeter overhang is hemmed with clapboard.

The windows in the house are wooden, with double glazing, as well as all the necessary fittings. In addition, blind interior doors are installed.

Helpful advice! If you are in no hurry to move, you can order a house made of timber for shrinkage. In this case, the structure should stand for 6-12 months without finishing materials.

Finnish laminated veneer lumber houses: what they are and how they differ from the rest

Interested in the question of how to build a house from a bar, every reader will certainly meet the wording "Finnish house from a bar". Consider what it is, and what advantages these buildings have.

These houses got their name from one Finnish company that was engaged in the production of laminated veneer lumber excellent quality... Thanks to the latest technologies, as well as considerable experience in this area, their products have won a leading position in the market, which is the reason for the emergence of such a name.

What are the advantages in comparison with Russian counterparts and why do many prefer them? The answer is extremely simple - it all depends on the quality of the raw materials used. Of course, the market situation is constantly changing, and today many domestic companies are quite capable of competing with Finnish competitors, but the reputation of the latter still keeps them at the forefront.

The price of a house from a bar, built according to Finnish technology, is determined by many factors and aspects. This includes the materials used and the size and complexity of the structure. All this can be calculated in advance by drawing up a detailed project and estimate.

What is the secret of Finnish-made laminated veneer lumber? Historically, in the post-war years, Finnish growers abandoned the use of trees that grew on their own. For this purpose, territories throughout the country were specially planted. The same growth conditions and care did their job, and almost all trees differed in the same size and shape, which significantly increased the quality of the laminated veneer lumber that was made of them.

Interesting! Today, Finnish houses have extremely little in common with Finland, and in fact, this phrase practically implies just profiled beams made using a special technology.

It is important to understand that the cost of building houses from a bar of this type is almost never low, and usually exceeds the Russian counterparts by at least 2 times. This is due to many factors, including careful quality control of products, as well as its own unique manufacturing technology.

Rules for caring for a house from a bar: how to extend the life of a wooden house

Looking through the options for houses from a bar: photos, prices and characteristics, many are wondering what needs to be done in order for the structure to serve as long as possible. Consider the recommendations of experts on how to properly care for a wooden house and what can be done for each of its constituent parts:

1. The roof of a log house requires additional protection from moisture, since it is this that leads to the destruction of the structure. To avoid this, the outer roof covering must be solid and of high quality, and technical inspection must be carried out at least 2 times a year. You also need to regularly clean the roof of dry leaves, moss, lichens, etc. otherwise moisture can accumulate there. It is extremely important to avoid scratches on the surface, as even seemingly insignificant defects can seriously degrade the performance of the roof.
2. The walls of a house made of timber also require maintenance, which should be expressed in regular treatment with a protective compound that prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. The joints are considered the most problematic place, so more attention should be paid to their inspection and processing. It will also be extremely useful to treat the surface with fire retardants that prevent combustion and protect the house in the event of a fire.
3. Oddly enough, the windows and window openings of a wooden house also require careful maintenance. So, in order to prevent decay processes, it is necessary to apply to them several times during the year special formulations in the following order: antiseptic, primer, water dispersion paint.

If you regularly pay due attention to a wooden house, then you can be sure that it will regularly serve for many years, without succumbing to the destructive effects of external factors.

How to build a house from a bar yourself: video instruction for beginners

Since the price of a turnkey prefab log house is often quite high for buyers, many people prefer to spend self-assembly... And in order to avoid the common mistakes in this case, it is worth watching the training video. Building a house from a bar is a task that can be done for everyone. It is enough just to heed some advice and recommendations.

For a long time, timber houses have been considered the warmest. They create a special human-friendly microclimate. An additional advantage of such buildings is their naturalness and environmental friendliness. Of course, building a house from a log is a matter that only a master can do. But today there are many other wood materials on sale that are quick and easy to install. So, for example, you can easily build houses from a bar with your own hands. In our article, we will describe in stages how to build such a house, and also talk about the intricacies of building a house from a bar - a video of the installation process is attached.

general information

Log house- this is a beautiful building with an optimal microclimate and humidity inside, which are achieved due to the fact that the tree has a special structure that provides microcirculation of air in the walls. Wooden houses are good because in summer it is practically not hot in them, and in winter they perfectly keep warm.

Line up wooden house it is possible from several types of timber:

• Glued laminated timber is an element that consists of individual coniferous lamellas glued together.
• Profiled beams are made from solid wood.
• Plain timber.

The first two products have grooves for tight sealed fixing of adjacent elements. Also, the elements may differ in humidity:

• Dry material after chamber drying is much better and gives less shrinkage.
• Wood of natural moisture is susceptible to shrinkage, deformation and cracking.

Important: glued and profiled beams are the most popular. Products can be square or rectangular section... And the tongue-and-groove system makes styling easy.

That is why the construction of houses from a bar is most often carried out using one of these two materials, because you can build such a house with your own hands. In addition, a house built from this material does not need external and internal finishing. Assembling a house from a bar is quick and easy due to the presence of a factory scheme, and typical projects of such buildings are easy to find on the network. So that you have an idea of ​​how to properly build a house from a bar, we offer a detailed video.

Foundation

Do-it-yourself construction of a house from a bar should start with the construction of the foundation. Since the timber structure is lightweight, a lightweight foundation can be laid. So, you can choose the following types of bases:

1. If the house will be built with a basement or cellar, then it is better to use a monolithic strip foundation... For a building without a basement, it is better to make a shallow tape.
2. You can also build a house from a bar on a pile-screw base with a grillage. This type of construction is more suitable for moist, loose and silty soils.
3. Sometimes a columnar structure is used as a base. The pillars are made of concrete blocks and installed in 1.5 m increments.
4. In some cases the best option will be monolithic slab foundation... In this case, you do not need to spend money on the arrangement of the floor.

Since the strip foundation is most often used, we will consider the sequence of its implementation in detail:

1. First of all, the preparation of the site and the marking of the future structure are carried out.
2. Further, under all external and internal load-bearing walls, a trench is dug 10 cm wider than the thickness of the walls.
3. At the bottom of the trench is done sand and gravel cushion 15 cm high. The sand is moistened with water and rammed.
4. Installation of wooden formwork is in progress.
5. After that, the concrete is poured in a layer 5 cm high.
6. The formwork is installed reinforcement cage so that it does not approach the formwork itself by more than 5 cm.
7. Concrete mortar is poured and rammed.
8. In the process of hardening, the concrete is moistened with water and covered with a film.
9. After 28 days, you can start installing the walls.

Installation of walls and floors

You can easily understand how to build a house from a bar with your own hands, with our step-by-step guide. Before laying the first row of beams, it is necessary to perform horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. To do this, its surface is covered with two layers of roofing material on bitumen mastic.

You can make your house from a bar with a thickness of 150 mm, if the construction is carried out in the warm regions of our country. Otherwise, it is better to take a bar 200 mm thick. Under the first crown, it is necessary to lay a 50 mm thick backing board. It is better to use a larch board.

Important: the lining board and the first crown are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics before laying.

1. Regardless of the way the rest of the crowns are laid, the first crown is mounted in the "half-tree". The corner connection in this case can be performed in a "half-tree", with the help of a root spike, end-to-end.
2. After the installation of the first and second crowns, they begin to install the logs for arranging the floor. If the basement of the house allows, then the logs can be laid on it. Otherwise, they cut into the first crown. The step of the lag is 40-70 cm. The larger the step, the greater the thickness of the sub-floor boards (25-40 mm).
3. Then, cranial bars are attached to the lags on the sides, on which the reel boards are laid.
4. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing. It should bend around the logs themselves.
5. After that, in the gaps between the lags on the roll-up boards and waterproofing is laid thermal insulation material.
6. After that, the entire structure is covered with a layer of vapor barrier.
7. The sub-floor is being installed.

Nuances of wall mounting:

• The next crown is laid after a tape insulation, tow, wait or linen has been laid on the surface of the previous element. The insulation is fixed with a stapler.
• The bars are fastened together with wooden dowels. To do this, with a step of 1.5 m, holes are drilled in the bars: the upper bar is drilled through, and the lower one - half. A dowel is driven into the holes and sunk 1 cm deep.
• In the process of laying the timber in the places of the window and doorways temporary supports are installed. They are made of unedged boards according to the size of the openings.
• Installation of internal partitions is carried out only after the construction of the box. They crash into the main walls.

If the house has a second floor, we build a house from a bar with our own hands in the following sequence:

1. After completing the walls of the first floor in the last crown, we make slots for laying the floor beams. Additionally, we fix the beams using steel corners. The spacing of the beams is 70 cm.
2. We lay the rough floor.
3. We hem the beams from below with clapboard. This will give us the ceiling on the first floor.
4. Next, we carry out the installation of the walls in the same way as on the first floor.

Building the roof of the house

Even if houses from a bar are the construction of seasonal residence, the process of installing the roof should be given maximum attention. Most often, gable or sloping roofs are made in wooden houses. In case of choosing gable version you will be able to equip a comfortable attic that can function as a living space.

The last crown will be used as the Mauerlat. The installation of the roof is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The easiest way is to collect pairs of rafter legs on the ground. By connecting them with ties, we get a rigid structure, like a truss, which can be easily installed on the roof.
2. First, we install the two outermost pairs of rafter legs. That is, we will get two pediments.
3. Next, we connect them with a ridge bar.
4. Now you can install all subsequent rafter pairs. We take their step equal to 90 cm.
5. We spread a vapor barrier on the surface of the rafters. We fix it with a stapler and additionally fix it with counter rails, which we stuff on the rafters.
6. We fill the crate across the direction of laying the counter rail. The step of the lathing is 40 cm.If the covering is made of soft roll material, then we carry out a continuous crate from OSB.
7. Now you can proceed to the installation of the selected roofing.

From the inside, the roof must be thoroughly insulated. To do this, we put a heat-insulating material (mineral wool) in the gaps between the lags. We close the entire structure from below with a vapor barrier membrane. Now you can hem the attic ceiling with clapboard.

Further work

If the house was erected from laminated veneer lumber, then you can start installing windows and doors, as well as finishing right away. When installing from other materials, you need to wait 3-6 months, during which the house will shrink, and only then proceed to further work.

After shrinkage, all cracks and cracks formed on the walls must be sealed with mastic or caulked. Now you can start the installation window frames and door blocks. In a house made of profiled and glued beams, there is no need for finishing, since the walls look beautiful anyway. If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then they should be sanded, painted or varnished. The outer surface of the walls of the house made of ordinary timber also needs finishing. It can be performed from different building materials- lining, vinyl siding, bricks, etc.

Care

In order for a house from a bar to serve as long as possible, it must be properly looked after:

• Once every 3-4 years, the protective coating of wood must be renewed.
• To avoid decay of the walls, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the foundation. It should not be flooded by surface and ground waters.

Diy house from a bar - video:

Is it possible to build a house from a bar with your own hands? Cast aside doubts - this is quite within the power of a person who knows how to handle a carpentry tool. It is very easy to use, economical and environmentally friendly. It's pretty universal material... A wonderful summer house at a summer cottage can be erected from a bar, and if it is additionally insulated, then it will be possible to live in winter.

How to build a house from a bar? Like any business. It all starts with a dream. It is necessary to make a project for the house and begin construction. When developing a project, it will be better to stick to rectangular shapes.

How quickly the house will be erected largely depends on the timber that you purchase for construction. If everything is in order with finances, you can buy glued or dried timber. It will take much less time to build a house from laminated veneer lumber. If you buy a raw timber, it will take much more time. Having erected the frame, you will need to let it dry. It will take about a year. Only when his house shrinks can construction be completed. Choosing the second option, you waste time, but significantly save your finances.

Any house is built on a foundation. A log house is no exception. Its choice should be taken seriously, given the landscape of the area and the type of soil. Foundations can be tape and columnar. The belt type is considered more preferable. It is somewhat more expensive than columnar, but more reliable and durable. With this type of foundation, it is possible to build a cellar. And this is the undoubted convenience of any home.

Erection of walls and roof

The construction of walls from a bar is no different from the assembly of a designer. The use of profiled timber will significantly improve thermal insulation. Corner joints are made in two ways: "in the flash" and "in the paw". The connection "in a flash" consists in the fact that the ends of the timber extend beyond the plane of the walls. If in the future you are thinking of decorating the house decoratively, then you should not make the connection "in a flash".

The walls are based on the laying out of the first crown. The first crown is just as important as the foundation. It is necessary to cover the foundation with waterproofing and carefully level it horizontally. In this case, it does not matter which method of corner joints you will do in the future. Always connect the first crown at the corners "in half a tree". Then the joints are fastened with pins, covered with a sealant, and then the rest of the crowns are laid out. Each subsequent row must be supplied, without fail, with a seal. Moss or tow is usually used as a sealant.

Together with the first crown, the foundation of the floor is laid. Better to do it double. A layer of insulation will keep the floor warm. At the second stage of construction, after the house has shrunk, the final floor is laid.

Nageli

An important role in the process of assembling walls from a bar is played by pins. Their task is to connect the bars together and prevent them from twisting. Nagels are most often made with a diameter of 3 - 4 centimeters from oak or birch wood. Instead of wooden dowels, a metal tube can be used, but this is quite expensive. For the dowels, 3 bars are drilled with a through hole in the depth in a checkerboard pattern and they are inserted without effort. Instead of wooden and metal dowels it is possible to use 25-30 cm nails. In this case, it must be remembered that its hat must necessarily be recessed 3-4 centimeters deep into the timber, since the shrinkage of a house built from a timber is inevitable.

Roof

Often the second floor is planned for the attic, and this requires roof insulation. There are two ways here:

Install a temporary roof, for which to cover it with roofing felt and wait for the house to shrink for a year. After a year, build the final version of the roof of the house from a bar.
in the first year, finish its construction: by making steam and waterproofing, insulation and roofing material for the roof.

In the second option, additional costs in the form of roofing material, but an undoubted gain in time - we move into a new dwelling.

Major mistakes during construction

It takes a lot of courage to build a house from a bar with your own hands. This is not a joke, and usually a person trusts his construction company with a good reputation. If the decision is made to build on their own, then it is necessary to provide for all possible errors. As in every case, there are "pitfalls" here.

Saving on the foundation

The basis of the foundations of any home is the foundation. At the stage of its installation, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all accepted building and technical standards. Any attempt to save money can lead to the destruction of the house. The foundation, erected with deviations from the established rules, can "take revenge" by subsidence, the appearance of micro and macro cracks and the destruction of walls. Subsequent renovations will negate all of your savings.

Therefore, consult an experienced designer. He will make the project and make all the technical calculations. Only in this case you can be sure that the house will stand and please your family.

Design errors

With an independent calculation of the project, there is a threat of unprofessional design. For the same reason, one should not strongly demand from the project developer significant savings in construction. On multiple experience, it has been established that the attic gives a large increase in living space, but at the same time does not lead to a significant increase in the cost of construction.

By including a basement in a house construction project, you do not significantly increase its cost, but you significantly improve the quality of life in this home. Try to make the house proportional. The abundance of small rooms in a large house and vice versa will make living in it not very comfortable. Provide zonal division in advance. You probably won't like it very much when smells from the kitchen float in the bedroom.

Other errors

The choice of roofing materials for the roof. In this matter, it is necessary to combine our desires with the compatibility of all other types of building materials. The structure of the roof itself and the climatic conditions of the building site are taken into account without fail.

Errors in the engineering equipment of the house and its electrification. Before installing various settings providing comfort in the house, contact the energy supervision organization. They will tell you the maximum electricity consumption in your home. By violating this point of construction, you endanger the lives of your loved ones.

Landscape design. It is not necessary to consider the landscape of the site as something secondary. Thinking over it must be done simultaneously with the design of all buildings located on the site. This will create a unified ensemble of home and nature. It will help to foresee the lighting of rooms in advance and to accurately fulfill all land standards.

Errors in the choice of stairs. Not an unimportant moment in arranging a house with an attic is the choice of stairs. For a private house, you should not choose a staircase with a width of less than 35 cm. A staircase angle of more than 30 degrees is not convenient for the elderly members of your family. Keep in mind that it is advisable to make the size of the staircase large. This will make it easier to lift things up to the second floor of the house. Think carefully about the location of the staircase itself. If you make a mistake with his choice, then in the future it will be problematic to do so.

Poor treatment with antipyretics and antiseptics. Your house is raining, the sun dries up, various molds, fungi and microorganisms attack your home day and night. All this brings harm to the house from a bar. Take care of him. Do not forget to carry out a comprehensive and high-quality treatment of all lumber with antipyretic and antiseptic solutions. This work will need to be carried out every year. Thoroughly treat all areas of the house where wood comes into contact with concrete or is subject to atmospheric precipitation.

Take your time with the installation of doors, windows, interior decoration. Keep in mind that in a wooden house, the installation of doors and windows is carried out in a special way. For this, a special installation method has been developed to prevent breakage and distortions of windows and doors. It is somewhat different from the usual way of doing such work. For houses in the construction of which a timber of natural moisture was used, before starting execution interior decoration the premises of the house and the installation of doors and windows, it is necessary to wait for the timber to dry and the house to shrink. This process usually takes 9 to 12 months.

Video How to build a house from a bar with your own hands

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials for the construction of private houses and cottages is timber. The construction of a residential building from a bar requires much more modest financial investments and time costs than building a house from more familiar materials. Moreover, in the case of a timber, you can perform all construction activities with your own hands.

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a plan for your future home. If you do not have design skills, entrust this work to some third-party organization, or select suitable drawings from open sources.

Before proceeding with the design, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing the optimal dimensions, be guided, first of all, by the available space, as well as by your personal needs.

If you have a small family and a little free space, you can give preference to a small log house with dimensions of 3x4 m. Provided that it is properly arranged, even such a small building will have enough useful space. The lack of space can be compensated for by a terrace or an attic room.

If there are no special problems with the place, but you still don't want to build a huge building, build a house with dimensions of 5x4 m.

The standard dimensions of summer and country log houses are indicators at the level of 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be made two-story without any fear.

For the rest, be guided by the conditions of your specific situation. The larger your family, the more area the house should have. In most cases, everything is limited exclusively by the size of the site and the available budget.

Buy a beam, the cross-section of which is as close as possible to the size of the future house. The thicker the timber, the less money you will have to spend on thermal insulation material and sound insulation.

Usually for erection load-bearing walls use a bar 200x200 mm. For the construction of a small house in a region with a mild climate, you can use material with a section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

In the process of assembling the walls between the rows, it is imperative to lay a seal made of flax or jute. Such a seal allows you to get rid of all the cracks and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to study the properties of the soil on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, you need to find out the level of passage of groundwater.

Select the length of the timber in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future home will be long, try to find a company that can make a bar according to your size. This will require additional financial investments, however, a solid timber surpasses prefabricated elements in all respects.

The cant needs a must finishing water-repellent composition. Without such impregnation, the material will very soon begin to mold and rot, and as a result, it will completely collapse.

If you need insulation finished house insulating materials are best placed from the inside. Mineral wool heat insulators with the obligatory laying of a waterproofing material between the thermal insulation and the walls are excellent for insulation.

It is better not to do the outer cladding of a log house if possible - such a finish will hide all the aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the required amount of materials in order to avoid problems with the implementation of an extra timber or the purchase of missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the walls of the building. Take the height of the ceilings taking into account the thickness of the floors and the floor. Calculate the area of ​​internal and outer walls taking into account the thickness of the section of the bar.

Second step. Calculate the total number of bars. To do this, you need to divide the height of the house wall by the height of one element. This will tell you how many beams are needed to build each wall. Calculate the length based on the length of the walls. Add up the number of beams required to build all the walls of the house.

Step three. Add to the calculated value 5-15% of the margin for scrap or unexpected damage during construction.

Initially, the walls of your house will have a height slightly higher than the design value. Such an increase will occur due to the use of an insulating gasket between the crowns. Over time, the wood will shrink, and the height of the walls will be restored to design.

Home Construction Guide

Purchase the required amount of finished timber and start construction. Start by preparing the site and arranging the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove debris and any obstructing objects from the construction site. Mark the area with pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

Second step. Dig a trench for your foundation. Timber houses Traditionally, they are built on strip foundations up to 80-100 cm deep. Select the specific depth taking into account the conditions of your specific situation.

Step three. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel. Tamp the backfill thoroughly. For better compaction, spill backfill with water.

Fourth step. Fasten the formwork to the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Lay the reinforcement mesh over the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation until fully cured (3-5 weeks).

In warm weather, the foundation will need to be watered for the first few days after pouring so that it does not crack. It is better to leave the formwork until the foundation has completely solidified. If necessary, it can be dismantled earlier, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First crown

First step. Coat the frozen foundation with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing material on it for waterproofing.

Second step. Start laying the first crown. Pre-soak everything wooden elements antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of beams is laid using the "half-tree" method. To make such a connection, you need to saw off the lower part of one beam, and the upper part of the other.

Step three. Lay out lower crown... Adjust the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, prepare wooden pins. With the help of these elements, you will connect the rows of the timber. It is advisable to make the pins from wood of the same species that was used for the manufacture of the main building elements. Punch holes for the pins in advance. Optimal step between fasteners - 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue to line the walls in straight, horizontal rows. Carry out the insert directly into the lower crown according to the method " dovetail". Place the floor beams in increments of no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will bend.

The walls are laid out according to an extremely simple principle: you put the beams, connect them together in the corners using the “root spike” method, connect the upper row with the lower row with the help of dowels. Drive the dowels into about a third of the depth of the lower row of timber, i.e. with the help of one nail, 2-3 rows can be connected at once. Be sure to lay insulation between the rows. You can use jute or moss.

Check each row with a building level. Use a sledgehammer to line the rows.

Lay out the walls of the house of the desired height in the same way. All rows laid above the lower crown are arranged according to the same principle.

The two upper rims do not need to be fastened. You will remove them before you start installing the roof and install the ceiling joists.

Start arranging the roof. If you plan to make a living attic space, use a 15x20 cm timber for the ceiling beams.Fix the beams themselves in increments of about 1-1.1 m.

Start erecting the frame of the roofing structure. The frame includes the following elements:

Install the Mauerlat, rafters and other listed items. Attach the sheathing boards to the rafters. For lathing, use boards about 150 mm wide and 15-20 mm thick. The greatest reliability is characterized by a solid crate. For the rest, be guided by the peculiarities of your situation, taking into account the angle of inclination of the slope, the type and weight of the finish coating, etc.

In the end, it remains to lay the finishing roofing with a preliminary device of steam, heat and moisture insulating layers.

After that, if necessary, you can insulate the house and complete the finishing work. Laying of communications, installation of doors and window structures, lighting, furnishings and other moments - all this is at your discretion.

In the case of a kiln-dried bar, you can start finishing almost immediately after completion. construction works... If you use a different material, you will have to wait until the wood shrinks. This takes at least 6 months.

A log house built in accordance with all building codes and recommendations will serve you well for many decades. Follow the instructions and very soon you will be able to enjoy comfortable living in a reliable home, built with your own hands.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself timber house

Guide and step-by-step instructions for building a house or a Russian bath from a bar with your own hands.

How much does it cost to build a house?

For many Russians, a new gardening life begins with this question every year. After a newly minted landowner receives a piece of land, he will surely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

Interesting offers from many construction firms- to build any construction on a turnkey basis, may conflict with family budget... Even if you give up the architectural sophistication, building a home will be expensive.

Often, the costs that go to the actual construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will run into a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build the house yourself.
The most important difficulty in building a house on your own is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.

How to build a house from a bar correctly?

Better to build a wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
There are two ways to go further. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes

• lumber for ceilings and floors,
• timber for felling,
• edged and unedged boards,
• window and door blocks, etc.
• insulation made of flax or jute,
• roofing material,
• glassine,
• glass,
• roofing material, g
• lift, staples, tow, etc.

The second way is the acquisition of all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It is better to go the first way, as it will turn out to be cheaper in the end. In addition, when buying a full set of building materials, many firms deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are not less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the binding of the future house to the terrain, the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to the plan for dividing the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be coordinated with the board of the dacha association.

First of all, it is necessary to draw on a sheet of paper a plan of the site at a certain scale, indicating the specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan in the board with the seal or signature of the person in charge.

Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, removing stumps and cutting off bumps on the territory of the future construction site. For these works you need to have an ax, a shovel, a scythe, hand winch, crowbar and sledgehammer. It is best to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
After cleaning the site, you can move on to another stage.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with the help of it, a finished warm, solid foundation can be obtained from a homogeneous material with the least labor cost. And then you will not have to do additional work on the manufacture and installation of pickups and jumpers. A simplified method of marking the axes should be used, without using cast-offs. After all, cast-off very much interferes with digging foundation trenches.

While digging the foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be put in a separate pile, it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth at which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of occurrence groundwater, type of soil and depth of freezing.

The best thing shallow foundation backfilling the bottom of the trench with sand. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, rammed and watered with water. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand cushion. There must be at least two reinforcement rods.

Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be taken as reinforcement. The sledgehammer can be used to break the concrete around the reinforcement of the post. Two pillars are enough. One can produce 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it in the corners. You can use two railway crutches for this. Hammer them with their combs to each other into a stump, bar or log so that there is a reinforcing bar between them. The rods that are placed should go over each other by at least 20 cm. So that they do not diverge when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods in the place of the overlap with wire.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, it is necessary to put stones, pieces of brick, rubble under the rods so that the reinforcing rods are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm.If there is nothing to put the rods on, then they can be suspended. The crossbar overlaps the top of the trench and the reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete, it is very laborious to prepare it by hand.

Pouring the foundation

It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods are inserted into the uncured concrete, the length of which is 40 cm. To a depth of 20 cm, these rods are immersed in the base of the foundation. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. In the corners of the foundation, rods are inserted, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be tied into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for fixing the plinth formwork panels.

In warm weather, the surface of fresh concrete must be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moistened with water, or simply covered with roofing material. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. For this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The boards will be without gaps, the surface of the base does not require plastering. To save money, you can use unedged boards.

After harvesting the boards, you need to collect shields of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the panels, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.

On the gaskets laid out on the ground, the shields are assembled in such a way that their smooth side faces the inside of the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Nails are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. Shields in height should be 10 cm above the level of concrete pouring.

In any foundation, a plinth at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground must have ventilation windows... They should be opposite each other on opposite sides of the base. To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes in the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the shields, so that no concrete is poured into them.

1. The installation of the shields starts from the inner contour. Before that, pieces of wire are wound on the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
2. First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
3. Then shields are substituted for them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
4. The shields of the inner contour, fastened to each other, are set relative to the axes of the foundation, and diagonally at the corners is checked.
5. The upper and lower struts are nailed to define the width of the base.
6. Then shields of the outer contour are attached, their midpoints are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
7. Nails are forgotten in the upper and lower struts. Shields knock together. It is checked whether the installation of the panels is symmetrical with respect to the center lines of the plinth, and measured diagonally at the outer corners.
8. Then we bend up the nails, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
9. In the upper part of the base on the spacers, it is convenient to place the base reinforcement rods. Then the upper part of the plinth formwork is fastened with ties. Reinforcement trims are overlapped and tied with wire.
10. In such a simple way, a rigid structure was obtained, which is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring the formwork with concrete, you need to mark the upper pouring line on the boards. From the most elevated angle on the ground, the marking of the basement horizon level begins. After 1-1.5 meters from the starting point, marks are made and nails are driven in through the shields. The height of the base will be shown by the protruding ends of the nails. They will also be control marks when pouring the base.

To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to make marks and constantly monitor the horizon with a hydro level. Protect the flooded base in hot weather. The concrete must be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. In the process of building a house, he will gain the necessary strength.

Unloading building materials

If during the construction of the house the whole set of building materials was ordered, then it is necessary to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having previously laid out unedged boards on the ground.

After the materials are unloaded, it is necessary to immediately sort them according to types, and lay them out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of the house is located in the corner between the border of the plot and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against two walls of the basement. It is desirable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and deflection of the beams, you need to lay them on flat spacers laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed along, the other across.

Boards are laid on the lining made of scraps of boards. A gap is left between the boards so that the stack "breathes". Each new row of boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the board with the planed plane is facing down. For unedged boards, the wider part should be facing down.

All stacks must be at least 20-30 cm above the ground.
When all the material is sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing felt. An important detail: on any lumber you need to immediately remove the remnants of the bark.
Approximate calculation of "accompanying" materials for the construction of a 6x6 house:
- 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
- nails: 200 mm - 16 kg, 150 mm - 8 kg, 120 mm - 6 kg, 100 mm - 20 kg, 70 mm - 10 kg;
- 7 kg of slate nails;
- nails for external and internal cladding;
- 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
- 12 rolls of 15 m roofing material on the base, on the subfloor and on the roof.

The floor and walls of the house from a bar

Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the lower harness, you need to send two layers of roofing material to the basement around the entire perimeter. For this, the strip of roofing material is bent along and laid on the base.

For strapping, smooth beams are selected without cracks, jumps and signs of rot. To prevent water from getting into the gaps between the bars, you need to chamfer 10x10 mm on the upper edges. It is better to pair the beams in the corners with the help of a spike and a groove. The dimensions of the spike should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the spike.

With the help of rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the bars are joined together in a vertical plane.
Curved beams are best cut into small pieces and placed in window and door openings.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic treatment of the bars of the first crown. Preheated oil should be lubricated on the inner and bottom sides of the beams, while leaving the ends clean. The processed bars of the harness are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.

After that, you need to immediately lay out the sex lags. As a lag, beams can be used, which fit after 1 m. If the width of the base allows, then the ends of the lag are laid on it. If it does not allow, then inserts are made into the harness, and the ends of the lag are inserted there.

For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete posts, which are buried 50 cm into the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the lag should be horizontal and the upper layers should have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the logs.
Then you can start building walls.

The entire timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. One large bar can make 3-4 smaller bars.
Bars are prepared for 2-3 crowns. A uniform even layer of tow is placed on the lower crown, its thickness should be 1 cm. Outside on both sides of the timber, tow is twisted by 5-6. The second crown is placed on tow. Then tow is put again, etc. The bars of the new crown are connected by nails with the bars below and overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Then the nails are driven in after 1.5 m.

Window blocks are fastened with nails to the wall beams every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.

In this case, nails are driven through these boards into the end of the timber. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontalness of the walls. The bars must be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.

A very crucial moment comes during the laying of the beams over the door and window blocks. In order not to pinch them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the frame.
Next, you need to install the scaffolding. They represent a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the basement and the frame. In scaffolding, flooring is very important. It must be able to support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding decking sags, you need to make it double. The laying of the timber can be completed when the height between the floor and the ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be well checked at the elevation marks and the diagonal and fastened with staples at the corners. The walls are now ready.

Roof

There are many different types of roofs: pitched, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in summer cottage construction the most common are gable sloped roofs. Due to their simplicity and manufacturability of installation, they have become very popular. Also, these roofs will allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

At the heart of the roof is a secure overlap. It should consist of ceiling beams that run parallel to the façade. For a span of 6 meters, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. Floor joists can be supported with a capital web.

The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the upper trim of the log house, you need to mark the places where you need to put the floor beams. Using the hydro level, it is necessary to achieve a general plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the log house by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using 50x150 mm plank pieces. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, on extensions, for ease of installation, cuts are made with a depth of 3-5 cm.

The prepared beams are raised to the upper frame of the log house and placed in places on tow and nailed down with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With the help of them, you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The inserts are nailed to the beam and to the strapping with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be crafted on the ground from edged boards. Better to make a full size template. So, using a template, you can determine which one mansard roof required to build.

The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be made transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, the assembly is done on the floor. When transverse way, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tightening and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. Installed U-shaped elements are connected by girders.

The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve as much as the curvature of the ceiling beams is possible. Therefore, it is better to use the longitudinal installation method.

To use this method, you must release from the temporary flooring right side overlap. On ceiling beams the racks are laid and the upper girder is attached to them with brackets. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The span of the frame must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, the bars must be placed under the run. After checking the verticality of the racks along the plumb line, fix them with braces.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are placed under purlins that have already been raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with the girders are lifted and fastened, you need to tie them with the help of attic beams - floor screeds.
When the mansard beams are laid and fastened with nails to the purlins, you need to lay the unedged boards on them.

The overlays assembled according to the template, ridge rafters, crossbars are installed on screeds and fastened with nails. Installation starts from the fronts, and then intermediate ridge rafters are exposed.
The attic frame is now complete.

House roof

This is a very demanding job that requires dexterity, knowledge and skills.
You need to start with the preparation of the fronts. Such preparation consists in the installation of two transverse and two vertical boards, the section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and fixed with nails.

Next, you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to overlap the glassine strips and horizontally, and attach it to the racks with small nails or felt buttons. Usually the pediment is sheathed. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally, and the upper one vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.

The vertical top is sewn up first. Care must be taken to ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the surge crest fits snugly into the groove. You can stuff the lash, and then cut off its ends, which protrude above the rafters, with a hacksaw.

It is important to nail down the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed and nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the pediment, remember that the post must always be groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor the horizontal.

Roof lathing

We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. First, it is necessary that the crate protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a ledge must be made to protect from the front of the building from being hit storm water... Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roofing in the house is roofing felt, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the pediment cornices must be precisely determined in accordance with the total length of the lathing. This can be done with the very easy way... It is necessary to lay out two boards parallel to the entire estimated width of the roof on the ground. On them it is necessary to place slate with the desired overlap in a whole wave or half-wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid out row and the batten is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the values ​​of the overhangs have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice should correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these protrusions.

For intermediate battens, natural restraints are obtained.
The lathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, the butt part is alternated with the top. At the bottom and top of the rafters, it is worth nailing edged boards.

After the crate is ready, you should immediately sheathe the cornices of the pediments. This is a very time-consuming business that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard-to-reach places and at high altitude. Eaves can be sewn up immediately with shields, which are calm and easy to make on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them to the roof and free up space for placing the overlays between the battens.

If the need arises, you can close the joint of the shield with the boards of the pediment with strips. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next is the roof. At the initial stage of construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing material. The rolls must be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each next strip Roofing material went into another strip by at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or an antiseptic. It is better to close a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.

The ends of the roofing material that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Further interior finishing work will be carried out. This is the most enjoyable step in building a house.

Interior finishing works

This stage of construction should start with the subfloor padding. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the lag. And then nail the boards of the black floor to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. Mineral wool or expanded clay can be used as insulation. On top of the insulation, you need to send glassine.

Planks of a clean floor are placed on the logs with the front side, while the nails are not driven to the end. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail down completely.
When installing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.

After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is laid, then glassine is again and floorboards are nailed.
After that, the attic ceiling is hemmed.

At the stage of interior decoration, door and window blocks are exposed and fixed. They are fixed with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with nails 100-120 mm. Tow is stuffed in the gap, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. Threshold door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fixing the window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed over the upper platband, and a drain should be installed on the lower plank.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is a single-flight staircase.

With the lower part, it rests on the floor, and with the upper part, on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, the materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are procured. For the manufacture of a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a section of 60x200 mm.
For steps, it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.

The steps are laid on bars with a section of 5x5 cm and are attached with 100 mm nails to the bowstrings. The places where the stairs fit to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits snugly against the wall and floor.

A second bowstring is cut out on this blank. Both bowstrings are aligned, and marks of future steps are applied on the outer edges. Bars are nailed along these marks, and then steps. The steps on the outside of the bowstring are nailed with decorative hats.