Types of brick oven repair

Almost every owner who lives in a private house or in a country house, who owns a brick oven, has to deal with the problem of repairing it. There is nothing surprising in this: over time, from mechanical loads and constant exposure to high temperatures, at least the clay joints around the metal elements of the furnace are chipped.

Furnace repair: A - replacement of cracked or burnt bricks; B - piping of the furnace, which gave cracks.

Trying to save money, many owners of brick ovens are trying to cope with the problem of repairing them on their own. But you need to understand that repair repair is different. Repair of brick ovens is divided into three types: current, partial and capital.

The simplest type of repair is in-line. It consists in keeping the stove used in a private house or in the country house clean and tidy. The entire repair consists of ridding the stove of ash and soot and eliminating minor masonry defects. brick oven: small cracks, chips. This type of repair can be handled by every owner and does not require the presence of a master stove-maker.

Partial repair of the furnace involves the replacement of one or more of its parts. It all depends on where these details are located. Replacing broken grates or a cast-iron stove will not cause any particular difficulties. And not everyone can replace or strengthen the firebox door or damper. With such repairs, you need to have at least minimal bricklayer skills, since you will have to disassemble and re-fold the brickwork around the damaged part.

Also, partial repair includes a partial change of the lining of the firebox, partial restoration of chimneys, partial repair of the beginning of the combustion channel, etc. With such a repair, having the experience of a bricklayer and having carefully studied the masonry of the damaged areas, you can also try to cope on your own. But the chances that you will do everything right are not too high.

Overhaul is the most difficult type of repair, and it cannot be done without the help of an experienced stove-maker. The need for such repairs arises when partial or complete disassembly of the furnace is required, for example, when upgrading the furnace or rebuilding it for a different type of fuel

Maintenance: its possible causes and ways to eliminate them

The first thing that makes it necessary to repair the furnace is poor draft, as a result of which the furnace begins to smoke heavily. The most likely cause of poor draft is soot deposits in the chimney and chimney. A layer of soot of only 3 mm reduces the heat transfer of the furnace by almost half. A thick layer of soot not only inevitably leads to almost double the fuel consumption, but also significantly increases the risk of fire. Therefore, the passages in the chimney, through which smoke is removed, and the chimney must be systematically cleaned of soot. To do this, they usually use a long pole with a brush fixed at the end or a large rag wound and tied. You can also use thick wire instead of a pole.

If the stove burns well in dry, warm weather, and starts to smoke when cold weather sets in, then the reason is most likely damaged thermal insulation or insufficient thickness of the chimney or chimney. In this case, the passing gases are rapidly cooled, significantly reducing thrust. The repair will consist of cleaning old plaster and grease all the seams in the chimney and chimney, and then re-plaster, increasing the thickness of the plaster layer to increase the thickness of the walls.

Also, cracks and crevices that appear on the surface of the stove or chimney, through which cold air enters the furnace, can also cause a deterioration in traction. Such suction will inevitably lead to the fact that the fuel will burn poorly and the stove will smoke. Cracks must be repaired. Do this with clay mortar.

A few words about the preparation of clay mortar for furnace repair.

The clay mortar should not be made either too greasy or too thin, since both types will inevitably take on new cracks, and efforts to repair the stove will go down the drain.

But if the components are correctly observed, then the composition practically does not crack when dried and does not precipitate. At the same time, it is very important that the prepared solution is homogeneous, without lumps and without areas with one clay or one sand. To make the solution more refractory and at the same time elastic, crushed asbestos fiber can be added to it. A properly prepared solution should have the consistency of sour cream.

The detected cracks in the brick oven are eliminated in this way: first you need to clear the crack and deepen it by 2-3 cm, after that the cleaned place is wetted with water and immediately rubbed with a solution. At the same time, a prerequisite is that the mashing process follows immediately after soaking. Even a small break is not allowed here.

To carry out in-line repairs, you will need tools:

• mortar blade;
• trowel;
• scouring.

Replacement of damaged bricks and removable cast iron elements

During the operation of a brick kiln, it often becomes necessary to replace burnt or damaged bricks. To do this, you need to remove the damaged brick, and completely clean the place where it was from all sides of the old mortar and soot and moisten it well with water. Then put a new mortar on the lower layer of masonry, the inserted brick must be lowered into the water for a couple of seconds, put a layer of mortar on it from above and from the sides and insert it into the formed niche.

One of the most common types of repair of brick ovens is the strengthening or replacement of its cast-iron elements: the furnace and view doors, the grate and, in fact, the stove. Here the easiest thing is to replace the grate. Since the grate is laid without clay mortar, it is enough to simply remove the old grates, after carefully examining how they were laid, and put new ones in their place in the same way.

Often during the operation of a brick oven, a cast-iron stove is damaged. Today, their quality leaves much to be desired, and with the constant alternation of heating and cooling, the material, unable to withstand it, bursts into two or even more pieces. The same can happen due to improper installation of the plate. But it is also possible that the stove in the country or in the house can still be used, but due to damage to the bricks on which it is laid, it has lost the necessary support, gaps have appeared between the brick and the stove.

In the first case, you need to replace the stove with a new one. But keep in mind that the plates may vary in size. When purchasing a new stove, do not forget to accurately measure the dimensions of the old one. The new plate should be the same size as the old one, in extreme cases 10-15 mm larger, but in no case smaller. Otherwise, instead of simply replacing the stove, you will have to redo the entire firebox.

In the second case, there is no need to purchase a new slab, but you will have to replace the damaged bricks of the upper row, and even more reliably, replace the entire upper row of bricks.

To take off old stove You can use a carpenter's axe. The ax blade is pushed under the slab from the side and, using the ax handle as a lever, lift it up. Then do the same on the other side of the plate. After that, the plate can be easily removed.

The method of replacing damaged bricks was mentioned above. Relaying the top row is carried out according to the same principle: first, the old bricks are carefully removed. Here the technology is simple: a thin but wide blade of a chisel or chisel is driven under the brick from below (you can also use a knife with a wide blade), pull the handle and tear the brick from its place, after which it is easy to pull it out. It is necessary to start with the most damaged brick, since the first brick is the most difficult to tear off. Then they do the same with the second brick and take everything out in turn.

The surface of the bricks of the lower row is thoroughly cleaned of clay mortar and soot, thoroughly moistened with water, and a new row of bricks is placed on top, observing, of course, their dressing. When installing the plate, it must be remembered that cast iron tends to expand when heated, so it is impossible to tightly fix the plate in any case.

It is easier if the new plate is put in place of the old one and matches it in size. In this case, the place where the slab will be placed is cleaned of the remains of clay mortar and soot, the slab is installed and the cracks are sealed with freshly prepared mortar. If the slab is placed on new bricks, then you must first make a recess in them around the perimeter of the slab, and the dimensions of the recess on each side should be 5-7 mm more sizes plates; install the plate in the recesses and seal it with freshly prepared mortar.

Strengthening and replacing firebox doors

With the constant operation of furnaces, a problem often arises with the furnace doors. This is typical for private houses, but such embarrassment can also happen with a stove in the country. To make repairs, you need to partially disassemble the brickwork of the furnace. The door together with the frame is removed from kiln masonry. If the legs of the frame (usually these are pieces of soft steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm) have become unusable, they must be replaced. If the door changes, then paws must also be put on it.

The brickwork at the installation site of the door is cleared, thoroughly moistened with water and the frame is set in place. In this case, the paws should fall into the seams of the masonry. If you install a door without tabs, it will quickly fall out. The seams are completely filled with mortar. If necessary, the old bricks are replaced with new ones. Laying is done, observing all the rules brickwork.

There is a subtlety: between the frame and the brickwork, you need to leave a gap within 5-8 mm. The gap will then need to be sealed with a ceramic heat-resistant cord that can withstand temperatures of more than 1000º. Just before buying such a cord, do not be too lazy to check its authenticity with 3-5 matches, because they can slip a fake. The frame installed in this way will be firmly fixed and will not loosen and fall out. After strengthening or replacing the frame, all remaining cracks are covered with clay mortar and rubbed.

To partially repair a brick oven, you will need the following tools:

• mortar blade;
• hammer-pick;
• trowel;
• level;
• meter or tape measure;
• plumb;
• stitching;
• scouring;
• rule.

Perhaps this is all that can be repaired in a brick oven without the experience of a stove-maker. If you are confident in your abilities, then you can take on more complex repairs, but there is little chance that you will do everything right the first time. So it's better not to waste your nerves and time and invite a good stove-maker.

Good luck! Warmth and comfort in your home!

In order not to crack the stove in the house, it is necessary to take a responsible attitude to the performance of work during the construction of the building. The main causes of the malfunction are laid at this stage. But if the problem has already arisen, it is important to quickly eliminate it. How and how to do this, you will learn about this in the article.

Collapse

First you need to understand why the cracks are spreading along the wall of the stove.

Reasons for the appearance

Before you properly and reliably cover the oven, in order to prevent repeated malfunctions, you need to know what can affect the integrity of the oven coating:

• with a long break in the heating of the house and sudden changes in temperature;
• the laying of the furnace was carried out on a poor-quality mortar;
• perhaps the reason is the settlement of the building or foundation. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out a major overhaul of the foundation, increasing its size and strength;
• after laying the furnace, the process of normal drying of the surfaces was disrupted;
• when plastering the oven, a low-quality mortar was used or a thick or very thin layer was applied;
• perhaps the reason is faulty ventilation and condensate settling on the walls of the furnace.

Can a cracked stove be used?

The answer to this question is unequivocal - it will be necessary to cover up a faulty, fuming stove immediately, it is not recommended to use it. Such requirements are explained not by a violation of the appearance of the walls, but by cracks that let carbon monoxide into the room. Poisoning by combustion waste can lead to sad consequences.

The statistics of firefighters say that most people die in a fire because of gas, and not from fire.

Damage diagnostics

Therefore, at the first sign of smoke in the house, you will need to do:

• diagnose the surfaces of the furnace and find a malfunction;
• after that, immediately prepare a solution or buy ready-made material to fill the gaps;
• plaster the walls and re-plaster them.

But first of all, it is the diagnostics that will help determine the size of the damaged surfaces and the approximate amount of materials to be eliminated. If the solution just cracked from high temperatures, you just need to beat off a layer of plaster and apply a new layer of quality materials.

It is worse if the cracks are through and continue to expand after the work has been done. In this case, it may be necessary to call specialists to find the causes and lay a new stove. Stone stoves are a complex structure, so you should not try to lay it out according to the book, it is better to entrust this work to an experienced stove-maker.

Such cracks can no longer be simply covered up.

In this example, too, do not gloss over. The brick was badly cracked.

If the cracks are small and their size does not increase, you can proceed to fix the problem yourself. To do this, it is important to prepare a quality solution and properly apply it to the wall. How to cover up cracks in the furnace so that it does not crack from heat - knowledge of the basic materials for making the solution will help in this matter.

Examples of small cracks:

How to cover cracks?

For these purposes, you can use several options that will reliably seal cracks in the walls and prevent gas from escaping into the room. Let's analyze each method in more detail.

Chamotte clay

Before you cover the cracks on the stove with fireclay clay, you need to know its advantages:

• the material is resistant to the effects of temperature during fuel combustion;
• high level of vapor permeability;
• resistant to moisture when heated;
• environmentally friendly material, safe for humans and animals, so it can be used in residential areas.

To make a solution, you need to mix several ingredients:

• 1 part cement brand 500;
• 2 parts fireclay clay»
• 7 parts river sand.

The solution is well mixed and water is added. The consistency depends on the skill and type of work, but you should not make it very liquid or thick. To get rid of stones and lumps, the clay can first be soaked in water for several hours and knead the lumps of material, and sift the cement and sand. Such a solution will be plastic, laid on the surface in an even layer.

Plastering walls with a certain skill is easy. To do this, it is important to install beacons and distribute the solution, level the layer on the wall. You will need to prepare a trowel, a spatula, the size of which depends on the surface area.

clay and sand

This is the most democratic inexpensive solution for plastering surfaces. Such a solution for the furnace has sufficient plasticity and is not subject to destruction under the influence of high temperatures.

Preparing the solution for work is simple, for this you will need:

• prepare a large trough in advance, fill in the required amount of clay and completely fill the layer with water. For 1 bucket of clay, pour 3 buckets of water. Clay should soak within 24 hours;
• then mix the solution, and add more water to it. We pass the liquid through a sieve, get rid of lumps and let the solution settle;
• we drain the protruding water, extracting the density of the solution like homemade sour cream;
• in a ratio of 1 to 1, add river sand and mix the solution.

Expert opinion

Pavel Kruglov

Baker with 25 years of experience

Important! At this time, the quality of the solution can be determined. Having lowered the handle from the shovel into it, and seeing the adhered clay - in this case, you will need to add a little sand. Only after seeing small clots of a solution of sand and clay on the holder, you can start plastering the walls of the stove.

With this solution, it is necessary to repair all the cracks that have appeared, after wetting the surfaces and then plastering the stove in several layers. Villages still use old way by adding horse manure to the finished solution. Such a solution is obtained with enhanced thermal insulation properties. Hay plays the role of air layers that prevent the free passage of heat.

Grout

Such a putty for the oven is sold ready-made, but it is easy to make it yourself. The main advantage of this material is the ability to maintain properties even when heated to 10,000. Industrial materials are used to equip and repair stoves and fireplaces, but the price of such a grout is high, so home craftsmen make it with their own hands.

The mixture for coating the oven is done in several stages:

• knead large lumps of clay and pour it into the trough;
• fill it with water and leave for 10-12 hours;
• we pour part of the sand into the soaked clay, maintaining a ratio of 1 to 4, knead the solution well, adding 5 parts of chopped straw in small portions;
• add 1 kg of coarse salt to the finished putty and finally mix the solution.

Ready grout can fill gaps between bricks, cracks, cracks and make the first draft layer of plaster.

oven glue

In order to repair the stove from a crack, you can buy heat-resistant special glue at a hardware store. Due to its properties, it is not exposed to high temperatures for a long time. In its composition, the addition of fireclay clay and cements with high refractory properties is used.

A plastic and solid mixture of glue is produced. With the help of solid materials, the surfaces of furnaces are plastered. Cracks and seams between bricks are filled with plastic glue.

When using this material, follow the instructions for dilution and use of the heat-resistant substance. It should not be done in large portions, it dries quickly and becomes unsuitable for work.

How to coat the oven correctly?

In order to reliably cover the cracks in a brick oven, work is carried out in several stages:

How long to wait for drying?

It is not recommended to use the oven until the solution is completely dry. Using various materials this period may change. Using a heat-resistant adhesive as a putty, the mortar layer will dry within a few hours.

More time will be required for drying and becoming a solution of clay and sand. In this case, it will be possible to use the stove only after a day. Then the brick oven, protected from cracks by mortar, will remain crack-free for a long time.

Therefore, we do not advise you to rush, immediately flooding your Russian stove with a stove bench. Sealing cracks in the furnace is a simple but responsible job. The choice of material for the solution is a purely individual matter. The main thing is to do the work carefully and responsibly. Then your house will always be light and clean, without the smell of burning and smoke penetrating through the cracks in the walls of the furnace.

For every summer resident, a stove is an excellent help in the household, as well as the ability to heat up in winter and provide the family with tasty and healthy food all year round.

Even our ancestors knew all the healing properties Russian stoves: they washed, cooked in it, dried mushrooms and berries on it, warmed themselves on a stove bench, and so on. The stove has always been the heart of the house, regardless of its dimensions: a small one with only a hob, or a real Russian stove with a stove bench - it could say everything about its mistress!

The oven is used as winter version heating, and summer, intended only for cooking.

There are many different “modernized” stove options on the Internet, but if you want to give the room a “zest”, then it is better to leave the ethnic rustic style and preserve the flavor that the master tried to bring to his work. Russian bake usually installed in huts with a Russian style. But it can be converted into a smaller one by removing only the bed.

Repair brick oven you can do it yourself. Thus, you will not only significantly save your budget, but you will also be able to avoid mistakes that are often made by irresponsible craftsmen.

Oven Repair Safety

Before repairing the oven, read all safety instructions:

be sure to use insulating materials to avoid heat build-up wooden surfaces adjacent to the heated part of the stove;

pay attention to quality materials : the brick must be sonorous, without chips and cracks;

use oily clay or special mixtures, as well as;

before starting operation, place a sheet of galvanized sheet in front of the furnace mouth.

Since ancient times, there have been recipes for cooking good solution for laying bricks. In order for it to be plastic and lay down evenly, add to the finished solution egg and some liquid dish soap. The consistency of the solution should resemble thick sour cream and be without lumps.

The mortar should be laid in an even layer, without bald spots and voids, since hot air entering such an “air pocket” can contribute to the appearance of cracks.

Heating in the house

The heating system can have several types:

Heating the room only with a small stove with hob. This option is suitable for small space, as well as in cases where you rarely visit the cottage.

Heating with a heating system in the form of pipes passing through the furnace. In this embodiment, heat is stored and distributed through pipes filled with antifreeze or water. The option is perfect for heating a room of 40 m2, but you should take into account the features and costs (you need to purchase a pressure meter, a pump, bring water into the house, etc.).

Space heating with fireplace. The fireplace perfectly gives off heat in the process of burning firewood, but does not retain it. This option suitable for quickly warming up the room to room temperature, however, it is unprofitable to use it constantly.

The usual stove is coarse or potbelly stove. This type stove does not take up much space and is the most economical option for a summer resident. Coefficient useful action this type of furnace is very high - this is due to its structure and the presence of many passages.

Restoration and decor

You can decorate the oven with the following materials:

Fire resistant tiles. This type of tile must be laid on a cleaned and even surface, using construction crosses for seams. The tile can be combined with various bas-relief edges and frescoes.The advantages of tiles are obvious: they are easy to care for, and they also retain a presentable appearance for a long time.

Coating with enamel paint. The walls of the oven are covered with white paint, which responds well to temperature changes. On the main background, you can apply drawings with paints, using stencils, or paint the stove with aerosols. But it should be noted that enamel paint, when heated at first, will exude bad smell which will pass with time.

Whitewash or lime. Add salt to the lime and water mixture to give the stove a snow-white sheen and shine.Whitewash and lime are natural antiseptics that have a beneficial effect on human health and do not emit harmful substances.

Types of malfunctions and their repair

Consider the most common cases when furnace repair is simply necessary:

The appearance of smoke, carbon monoxide in the room. Smoke from brickwork can be attributed to minor repairs . In order to “pat up” the stove, use oily red clay or special mixture , which is sold in hardware stores. coat you need a cooled oven to allow the clay to dry evenly.

Crack in one of the oven walls. This situation can be corrected by rearranging the entire structure of the furnace. Furnace repair should begin with the analysis of the upper part of the structure. After you have dismantled the top, look at the base: if it has not cracked and has a smooth structure, does not hunch, without drops, then you can leave it. For temporary use, secure the oven with a metal band and seal the gap with grout. Just remember that such a belt cannot be adjacent closely, since the metal may burst when heated.

There is no traction. The case is rare and is justified by the curvature, or the appearance cracks in the flue pipe. The pipe must be shifted slightly under the slope. If you have 2 stoves with one pipe for removing soot, then you need to make a "bridge".

Note: provides good traction competent construction ovens, as well as compliance with all standards during construction.

The fire goes out in the new stove. This phenomenon indicates that bake poorly dried. It is necessary to open all the shutters and ventilate it. Then you should start gradually calcining the stove, increasing the temperature and the amount of firewood.

The brick inside the firebox cracked.This indicates that the brick combustion chamber heated unevenly or there was a sharp temperature drop. Fix the situation touching chipped with a solution of clay, and then dried well.

Broken door or other metal part. As a rule, metal parts are “embedded” with pins in the design of the furnace, even at the construction stage, and it is almost impossible to get them with the least losses. Replace the door possible only by completely disassembling the oven (use a respirator to protect yourself from dust entering the respiratory tract).

Furnace repair costs include:

dismantling of the old furnace;

purchase of new bricks, metal parts (if it is impossible to use the old ones);

purchase of all related tools ( building level, tape measure, small hammer, trowel for laying mortar, trough for kneading mortar);

delivery and unloading of building materials.

mend old a do-it-yourself oven is much cheaper than building a new one, because you will save on paying the master.

It's important to know: need totake care of in advance good lighting. Use table lamp or a spotlight, as well as an extension cord. You will have to change location frequently and move a lot. It is best if the light comes at a slight angle so that you can see all the irregularities along the base of the masonry.

Any stove can be redesigned and made more functional - it all depends on your wishes. The ideal option is a small baby oven with a hob and a combination heating systems with a couch, as well as possible.

A wood burning stove can be made in private wooden at home and in the bath. Sometimes baths are used for heating muffle a compact oven designed to heat a small room. It does not have a special decorative look, but the walls keep the temperature perfectly for a long time.

Consider: PBefore choosing bricks, be sure to check that the seller has quality certificates. Carefully inspect the product for defects: smooth edges, uniform texture, absence of lumps and humps, loudness when tapping - all this indicates excellent quality the raw material from which it is made.

Watch the video in which experienced master shares his own experience in repairing a brick oven:

However, it is rather problematic to hire professional stove-makers, and therefore it is necessary to think about repairs quite often.

The outdoor stove is in unfavorable conditions, since it is usually operated seasonally, after which it is idle for a long time, being exposed to weathering and sudden changes in temperature. In addition, the outdoor stove is not always flooded even in their presence on the site, since it is not always advisable to do this only for cooking.

As a result, the brick becomes damp, and heated after a long break begins to crack, as well as masonry mortar. There are gaps where smoke comes out. Doors do not close tightly. This is where the need for quick and inexpensive repairs arises.

There are also problems with draft: the chimney can become clogged with soot (especially when using wood conifers) or a wall may collapse in it. This is where repairs can help. But if the chimney has design flaws, then you will have to shift its entire structure, so it’s better to do everything carefully right away in order to save yourself from serious problems in the future.

Every building has to be repaired over time. Especially a brick oven or fireplace, which are subjected to serious stress. Moreover, some structural elements different odds extensions. Seams are destroyed around metal doors, valves, plates. Through the gaps formed, air enters the stove, which worsens the draft, and smoke comes out, the surface is smoked, violating the aesthetics of the stove. To avoid frequent repairs, such troubles can be foreseen at the construction stage: for example, lay a ceramic heat-insulating sealing cord around the door frames (it is better not to use asbestos, since they emit harmful substances when heated), which compensates for thermal fluctuations in the dimensions of the metal. The same applies to the cooktop. Heat-resistant glue is added to the clay-chamotte mortar, which is used between frames and bricks, so that the mortar is plastic, durable and can withstand high temperatures.

It is quite possible to perform minor repairs: strengthen doors and other fixtures, close up gaps, replace the pre-furnace sheet, etc. First you need to make sure that there are indeed malfunctions - it may be enough just to clean the chimney channels.

First of all, repair will require practical skills and ingenuity. A certain amount of brick, ordinary red or refractory, pickaxe, trowel, plumb line, level, tape measure, bucket.

Prolonged operation of the stove or fireplace or poor-quality dressing of the seams in the chimneys can lead to the formation of blockages (a kind of garbage plugs). They are also very likely when using low-quality bricks during construction. To determine the presence of such a problem, it is enough to heat the stove and much will immediately become clear - the smoke simply will not go away, that is, there is no draft.

Just for such cases, special doors should be provided in the stove, or predetermined bricks should be removed from the masonry to form a hole (having previously cleaned the plaster or removed the lining). Through this opening, access to the internal passage is gained. Its walls are cleaned of soot with a brush, broom and scoop. They immediately check the draft - they bring lit paper to the hole, the smoke from which should be drawn into the chimney.

You can also clean the chimney from above, for example, from a canopy or roof. To do this, use a long stick with a wound rag at the end or a weight on a rope. Traction can weaken not only because of soot, but also because of a brick that has broken off inside. The wreckage also pushes through. Then all the garbage that has fallen into the firebox is selected and thrown away.

It should be noted that even a thin layer of soot can significantly reduce the functionality of the furnace, and it is very difficult to eliminate it, which has settled among the small roughness of the brickwork. Therefore, when disassembling a place in a pipe, for example, to replace a brick, it is worth taking advantage of the situation and manually cleaning the inner walls from the squeezed out residues of the mortar through the hole to an accessible distance and scraping it with some suitable tool with a wet rag, cleaning off the soot. By the way, chimneys and pipes should not be lubricated with clay mortar, as it will clog the stove, crumbling from high temperature.

With intensive use of an outdoor stove, cleaning is done every 3 months, and preferably at an interval of 2 months. Each owner must evaluate the need for cleaning, based on the specific frequency of use.

When solidified soot forms on the door, it is removed with an emery cloth.

It has already been said above that the firebox with aspen firewood helps to clean the chimney of soot. Soot just burns out from high temperature. Therefore, 7-8 days before the cleaning procedure, the oven is heated to loosen the soot - this will make it easier to clean it.

This repair begins with a careful inspection of the oven to identify any defects or irregularities in the design that adversely affect its operation. Thus, the scope of work is determined.

Repair can be current (minor damage that does not require serious efforts to eliminate them), medium and capital (the longest and most complex, often associated with some kind of extreme situations - leaving the stove unattended and using for a very long time, initially incorrect masonry and etc.).

The first type includes work that can be done fairly quickly and without special skills. But they need to be done, otherwise the furnace will soon need an average, or even a major overhaul, and an increase in the risk of fires or accidents with people is also likely. Such works are sealing cracks, replacing doors, grates, latches, bricks, strengthening tiles.

Strengthening and replacing the furnace door

The oven doors are prime candidates for repair as they are constantly being opened and closed, weakening the masonry around. Door frames are one of the weakest links in the design. As a rule, around the doors, especially on top, there are quite large cracks, and the frame with the door is loosening more and more.

If you need to remove the frame, then you can’t do without disassembling part of the furnace, since during installation the door frame was wound into the masonry using metal strips. However, in many cases it is not necessary to make such a dismantling - it is enough to strengthen the frame. To do this, the gap around it is cleaned, the surfaces are washed with water and treated with a stiff brush, which removes the remains of clay and soot, then coated with a primer. A sealing insulating cord is inserted around the perimeter (asbestos is usually used, although it has a significant drawback - it can release harmful substances at elevated temperatures). So better fit, for example, ceramic cord or mineral basalt wool.

Then the gap is covered with a solution. And not the same as during construction, but on the basis of fireclay clay. Heat-resistant glue and Portland cement should be added to the solution: clay, fine sand, cement (3: 10: 1) plus a little hot glue. The consistency of the final substance is creamy thick. In order not to stain the door itself and the surrounding bricks, they are sealed with masking tape.

Before you heat the stove, you need to wait a day. At first, you should not put a lot of firewood.

Replacing the hob

It may happen that as a result of prolonged use (5-6 years), smoke began to smoke from under the stove at the edges. There is nothing very terrible in this, but it needs to be corrected. Doing it yourself is much cheaper than inviting a master.

Work is done with warm oven so it is warmed up. Then they remove the old slab and perform a thorough inspection of the entire structure, and not just the place in the slab area.

The following picture is very likely: the seams crumbled, soot and ashes in them and in the grooves of the slab landing. Therefore, soot, ash, and the remnants of the previous solution are cleaned, the seams are thoroughly washed, a primer is applied from glue diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1, a ceramic heat-resistant insulating cord, felt or basalt wool is laid around the perimeter of the hob (on heat-resistant glue, which through some gaps drip into the gap around the slab). Then they coat with a solution of fine-grained sand, sifted clay, 10% cement and 10% heat-resistant glue. There should be no voids in the seams. Next, the seams are rubbed so that they do not stand out much from the others, or a ceramic tile border is laid on the seams without glue.

When buying a ceramic heat-resistant cord, you need to be vigilant and try to light it right in the store. If it lights up, then a fake can be exchanged, and if they refuse, then there is still a benefit from checking, because such a cord cannot be used in an oven. A day later, a control furnace furnace is performed - there should be no smoke leaks.

Grate replacement

Repair of a grate that has lost its operational qualities is elementary. To do this, it is removed, the grooves are cleaned of ash and a new grate is laid. If the old grate was installed with a certain slope, then the new one is mounted in the same way. At the same time, a gap of 5 mm or more wide is left around the entire perimeter between adjacent masonry bricks and the grate, in order to fill in sand, ash or lay a ceramic insulating cord.

Such a cord can withstand heating to temperatures exceeding 1000 ° C. It is placed in the groove between the grate and the masonry and fixed with heat-resistant glue.

Crack sealing

The most common defect in stoves and fireplaces is cracks. They are formed in the furnace throughout the entire period of its use. It is almost impossible to avoid them, since this process has natural causes. A street structure, among other things, is exposed to precipitation and wind.

Cracks can appear in any structure, but this defect is quite possible to fix on your own. Probably, many have seen how cobwebs of small cracks form on the surface of stoves and fireplaces. They are not penetrating and only have a detrimental effect on appearance designs. Cracks occur due to the wrong composition for plastering, if any. In this case, the surface of the furnace is covered with gauze soaked in a liquid clay solution, it is waited for to dry and plaster is applied. Most often this is enough to prevent cracks.

The wind affects the functioning of the stove. If its movement is horizontal, then it soars up in front of the pipe, in connection with which a zone of rarefied air is formed near the outlet and the flue gases are “sucked out”, increasing thrust. Air flows directed from top to bottom blow gases into the pipe and the thrust weakens. To avoid this, pipes are beveled or metal caps are placed to deflect the wind.

Also, small cracks and larger gaps usually appear due to uneven heating of the masonry and evaporation of moisture to the surface. Such defects complicate operation and increase the risk to people. More often, cracks form in the seams. Most affordable way correction is to cover the cracks with a new solution.

And here you need to think about how to do this and which composition to give preference to. Naturally, it must be fireproof, easy to apply to the surface and have excellent adhesion in order to stay in the crack.

The most obvious, time-tested composition is clay, which acts as the basis for it. The classic solution consists of 1 part clay and 1 part river sand. The resulting mixture is well mixed so that not a single lump remains. It is even better to pass the solution through a sieve with large cells. To check the consistency, you need to fashion a ball and throw it on the floor. If cracks appear on the ball, then clay should be added to the solution.

To seal cracks and crevices, you will need a mortar container, a ladle for throwing the composition onto the walls, a trowel for spot application and layer formation, and a grater for leveling.

The sequence of actions for sealing cracks and crevices

The surface is cleaned and the cracks are treated with a chisel. At the same time, you need to beat off the whole place, and not around one crack. And this must be done to the very brick. V otherwise cracks later form again.

The brick surface is cleaned with a metal brush.

The surface is abundantly moistened with a primer mixed with cement with the addition of water. Take a brush and apply the liquid solution to the cleaned area.

Since the cracks have been broken, the exposed surfaces must be re-plastered. To do this, they are first primed and allowed to dry. Prepare the composition for plastering. As a rule, it is diluted clay with the addition of sand. The methods for determining the correctness of the solution were discussed above.

When the correct proportions of the solution are determined, it is kneaded in the volumes that will be needed to correct the defects. After that, they begin to seal those places that were previously primed. If they have had time to dry, then they are moistened again, since the plaster must be applied to wet surfaces.

Then the solution is leveled over the surface with a wooden grater. During the operation, the instrument is slightly pressed.

Wait until the solution dries a little.

With the help of a triangular trowel close up problematic cracks and crevices. At the corners, you will need a limiter, for example, a wooden plank.

Wet the surfaces and rub them again with a wooden grater, making circular movements with some pressure on the tool. Leave to dry a little.

With the help of a trowel, the final layer of clay mortar is applied, making hand movements from the bottom up.

After drying this layer with a wooden float dipped in water, rub the surfaces in a circular motion until all the pits and bulges disappear.

Of course, clay solutions are the cheapest and most affordable, so they are most often used in the construction of stoves and fireplaces and their repair. Dry clay is quite plastic and less prone to cracking. But various additives, such as cement or lime, increase the risk of their occurrence, which is especially true for structures with a sharp temperature difference. It is recommended to add table salt to the solution, which increases its strength.

Clay should be used clean, reddish in color, and sand inclusions should be kept to a minimum. good clay it can be difficult to find, so it’s worth preparing it in advance, remembering that it will come in handy not only for construction, but also for repairs.

There are various mixtures on the market. For example, fireclay mortar sold in packs of 5 kg has proven itself very well. Stir it with water to a thick creamy consistency in accordance with the instructions. You should prepare as much mortar as you need at a given moment, but no more, since the mortar quickly hardens.

Cracks and crevices are cleaned of dust and abundantly moistened. Then, using a spatula, they capture the solution and cover up problem areas. You can smooth the composition over the surface with a brush with a wide working part. You just need to soak it in water.

After filling all the cracks, they flood the furnace and wait. In parallel with its heating, the solution dries and solidifies. Subsequently, small cracks may appear in it, but they are also covered with mortar.

In order for a stove or fireplace to serve for a long time and successfully, they need constant timely care. They cover up small cracks, without waiting for them to turn into cracks, correct crumbling plaster. Small problems are easier and faster to solve, but left unattended they will become big and require much more serious labor and financial costs.

In the process of minor repairs, you should carefully consider a variety of oven fixtures such as built-in metal elements (doors, hobs, valves, etc.).

Replacing bad bricks

If the brick is cracked, it is beaten off, loosened and pulled out, its nest is cleared from the remnants of the mortar, they are found to be suitable in size or cut off, a new brick is chipped to the required size and tried on instead of the previous one. Both the nest and the brick itself are thoroughly moistened, then clay mortar is applied to the brick and inserted into place. If there are voids in the seam, a solution is added, pressed and rubbed with moderate force, achieving a smooth surface.

If it is necessary to repair the furnace and the very bottom of the chimney channels, the highest quality brick is selected for high-temperature places, and the remaining one is used in areas with lower temperatures.

As a result, the channels should be smooth so that the gases move without interference. Accordingly, in this case, less condensate is formed and it will evaporate more actively.

During repairs associated with the replacement of bricks, they often have to be pricked. The chipped side cannot be placed inside. Moreover, grind these sides, process with a file or coarse-grained sandpaper you need in any case - processed bricks will last longer.

Everything sharp corners they are hemmed and rounded, because they are an obstacle to the free movement of gases.

The repair scheme is standard. First, the old brick is taken out, the surfaces are cleaned of mortar residues using a metal brush, clay mortar is applied, and a new processed brick is placed.

Replacement and repair of tiles

If there is a tiled lining on the stove, small cracks in it are sealed with a solution of alabaster and chalk. Those trim elements that are severely cracked due to heat or mechanical damage are replaced with new ones. The old element is removed, its place is carefully cleaned to a brick and moistened, then a new tile, pre-selected in color and shape, is adjusted under this place, its rumba (frame on the reverse side) is poured with thick clay mortar mixed with brick chips, and set in place. Of course, the cladding frame loses its strength, since new elements are not fixed in the masonry with wire. If the tile is ceramic, then the course of work is identical, but the cement-sand mortar is used.

Also, cracks in the tile can be covered up. gypsum mortar, to which you need to add aluminum-potassium alum (a white powder that dissolves in water), or chalk mixed with raw egg white.

Periodically simply clean the surface of the cladding. They wipe the surfaces with a wet cloth, make gypsum dough, diluting the gypsum to a creamy consistency, and cover the surface with a thin layer. The tool can be own hands. After a short period of time, the plaster will begin to dry out. Then the tiles are wiped clean with a dry cloth. Together with the gypsum, all the dirt is removed, and the cracks and seams become white.

Replacing the pre-furnace sheet

Sometimes, on fireproof metal sheets attached to the floor in front of the furnace, torn places form, causing certain inconvenience during cleaning. They also increase the risk of fire if the oven is located in a gazebo or similar structure with a wooden floor.

In this situation, you do not have to wait until the sheet is completely soaked, but you should tear it off and remove the nails from the floor. Then you need to put in its place a sheet of asbestos or felt soaked in a clay solution. Then lay a new sheet of roofing steel on top and attach it with nails.

Firebreaks (usually metal sheets on the walls near the stove, although there is also a narrow brick strip).

In principle, the repair of these elements is similar to the pre-furnace sheets. Usually, cuttings fail due to settlement of structures, various mechanical shocks. The reason may be in the initially low-quality materials or installation. The thickness of the cut is determined by the dimensions of the furnace.

Furnace repair

There are no special subtleties in this work, but some skill is needed. Repairs are made through the door. Minor defects are cleaned and sealed with a refractory mortar, but if it is necessary to replace the lining bricks (the inner lining of the furnace), then they are removed, the nests are cleaned and pre-prepared new refractory bricks are installed on the same mortar that was used in the construction of the firebox.

If the damage is too great and it is inconvenient to work through the door opening, then you will have to disassemble the front part of the structure from the base or blower to the entire height of the furnace. Then the lining bricks are taken out, their places are cleaned, new refractory bricks are installed on the refractory mortar. It is not recommended to bind these bricks with ordinary ones. The thickness of the lining does not change - the brick is on edge, in very massive structures the brick can be laid flat. The thickness of the seams does not exceed 3 mm.

Repair of a hearth, overlapping in a Russian stove

Due to the constant shuffling of dishes on the surface of the hearth (lower part of the furnace), its even surface gradually deteriorates, and the bricks of the ceiling (upper part of the furnace) do not always withstand high temperatures, becoming cracked and destroyed. Therefore, repairs are required.

This job is easy and pretty fast. First, the available bricks are sorted and the most suitable are selected - the best ones will be required, because we are talking about the heart of the furnace, which is the firebox. The old bricks of the hearth are removed, the non-juicy base, if any, is leveled (the race is thermally insulated from the base to avoid heat loss) to give it the desired slope towards the back wall. The base should rise slightly. Further, starting from the hearth (a flat platform in front of the hearth, on which the dishes are placed) and moving towards the back wall, lay out a new hearth. At the end of the work, they grind it with a brick with sand to smooth out irregularities. The gaps between the bricks are filled with fine-grained sand and ash.

Roof repair involves the dismantling of old bricks and laying out new ones in order to constructively identical the old and new masonry.

Pipe

The pipe is quite aggressively affected not only by high temperature, but also by precipitation and wind. It is not surprising that after some time it begins to collapse and threaten with fire (of course, metal pipes much more durable than brick, and usually can not be repaired). Brick pipes are repaired with high-quality bricks, dismantling the problem area, clearing the remains of the solution. Having moistened the new brick and the nest under it with water, they perform a new laying with a cement or mixed mortar, not forgetting to carefully bandage the seams. The cement at the very top of the pipe can be beveled from the inside to external parties to facilitate the movement of gases. In addition, it is recommended to install a protective metal cap on the pipe. It is important to protect the pipe from moisture getting into it, because the draught deteriorates due to the wetting of the furnace from the inside.

To eliminate the danger of condensation, it is sometimes necessary to reduce the number of turns in the chimney or access them by creating a 5x5 cm window in each turn. As a rule, a window is made in the last two chimneys, but it may be more beneficial to remove a couple of them. To do this, you need to disassemble the wall from the bottom and top and then assemble it in the same order. In any case, the restoration of dismantled walls must be approached very responsibly.

Sometimes, for optimization purposes, it may be necessary to convert a solid hearth furnace to a grate furnace. Manipulations with the furnace door are not required if the base of the structure is at least 5 rows of bricks away from the hearth, otherwise the door will have to be raised. This is done taking into account the fact that the height of a wood-burning firebox is at least 50-55 cm, and a coal firebox is from 40-45 cm and above. In the latter case, blower and furnace door should be very tightly closed, and they also make holes with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm for the release of gases. The size of the grate in an anthracite stove does not differ from the grate in a wood-burning stove, but the profile is more massive. The work is done like this. They remove the door, dismantling the front wall of the structure and underneath, remove the debris and begin to lay a new configuration with a blower, a blower door, a grate and with the transfer of a furnace door, if necessary, after which they wall up the wall with careful dressing of the seams.

A complete overhaul is when you need to convert one stove into two or into a fireplace stove. For this, of course, the initial design must be large. The implementation of this idea sounds simple, but it will require full-fledged stove-setting skills. First, he draws up a plan on paper, then disassembles some wall, determines the necessary dimensions and mentally separates inner space furnaces into two independent areas with fireboxes and smoke exhaust systems that are integrated somewhere upstairs so that the smoke escapes into the atmosphere through one pipe. However, if this cannot be done, then two separate pipes can be made.

Some Common Problems and How to Fix Them

1. It is impossible to melt, smoke comes out of all holes and there is no draft. Most likely, the reason is that the oven has cooled down after a long break. It is necessary to burn paper, sawdust in the cleaning channel under the pipe.
2. If the stove does not melt well and smokes, then there is probably not enough air for normal combustion. As a result, traction weakens. This may also be due to soot, ash, clogged smoke channels. In this situation, it is necessary to close up all the cracks, clean the chimneys and the chimney.
3. Rust appeared on the chimney. This is due to condensate that will fall out at low gas temperatures, and condensate appears when cold air enters the furnace, too many smoke turns, the fuel burns out only partially, are used raw firewood. The solution to the problem is to increase the temperature of the gases, eliminate gaps, reduce the number of smoke cycles, and increase the size of the grate. Condensation can also be caused by wind blowing the pipe.
4. The draft can be weak initially, weaken or even disappear for many reasons, including the low height and cross-sectional area of ​​​​the chimney, chimneys are clogged, cold air enters through the cracks. To fix this, you need to increase the height of the pipe (it is difficult to increase the cross-sectional area, since it will be necessary to shift the entire pipe), clean the channels, close up the cracks.

The height of the pipe is increased by building up brickwork or by inserting a ceramic, asbestos-cement or concrete cylinder of the required length and diameter into it.

It is recommended to check the foundation of the structure more often. The fact is that 15 cm above the ground or floor level is a waterproofing of 2-3 layers of roofing material or other similar material. And already on it the base of the furnace was built from a couple of rows of bricks. Well, this very base can be damp due to poorly arranged waterproofing. In this case, you will have to disassemble the furnace and arrange an additional layer of waterproofing or put up with a defect.

After the repair is completed, the oven must be dried. And it is important to do everything right, because the quality of the new masonry depends on it. Dry recommended naturally within 2-3 days with all open furnace devices. There should be no wet spots anywhere in the structure.

After that, the furnace is slightly heated and all valves and doors are closed. The absence of moisture on them indicates that the oven is still damp and drying should continue for another couple of days. This can be done both naturally and artificially by heating the oven little by little. But during a major overhaul, the second method is not recommended.

The most popular heating system, usually installed in a private wooden house, includes a modified stone oven and a water heating circuit.

The body of the stove is subjected to incredible loads from the fire during the furnace, and even structures made of special refractory bricks begin to collapse over time.

When cracks or more serious flaws begin to appear on the masonry, it urgently needs repair, the cracks must be repaired. How to repair the most important element of the heating system with your own hands?

The design of standard brick units includes a base, a pre-furnace sheet, a combustion chamber and a blower. A grate is mounted in the combustion chamber. Outside the stove there is a chimney. Sometimes the stove is equipped for cooking. Outside, the body of the stove is finished facing brick, plaster or refractory . All these parts can break down both in powerful rotary and industrial machines, and in ordinary home units. Depending on the severity of the breakdown, do-it-yourself repair of a heating stove is divided into three types: current, medium and capital.

Tools needed to repair the stove:

• a special hammer with a pickaxe on one side;
• Master OK;
• level;
• roulette;
• bucket for diluting the mixture.

Different types of repairs can be seen on the video on the Internet.

Regular oven repairs

The stove does not melt due to lack of traction

Such a problem may occur the following reasons:

• a large amount of air in the pipe due to a break in work;
• lack of oxygen supply;
• powerful air flow outside;

In the first three situations, repairing a Russian stove is simple: for kindling you need to use not plain paper, but something more combustible - for example, a piece of rubber. The use of fuels and lubricants for ignition is not recommended.

The situation when the chimney or pipe is clogged with soot is determined by how much time has passed since the last burning of combustion waste. This is done at least once a year, usually in the summer. If this operation was not performed on time, you will have to eliminate the blockage chimney. First of all, you need to try to still shoot out the soot. For this a handful of salt is thrown into a burning stove large size, after which the damper closes quickly. Pieces of hardened soot will fly out with a crack through the chimney. If this does not happen, you will have to clean the chimney with your own hands through a special door. The technology of this process can be studied using the video.

Too much smoke

Read also: heating shield for metal furnace

The cause of this malfunction in the operation of the stove may be a violation of the integrity of the brickwork of the vault, as a result of which cracks and cracks are formed that must be repaired with your own hands.

You need to repair the structure using the following material: a mixture of medium viscosity is prepared from sand and clay; You can also use a mixture prepared in advance by the manufacturer, it is sold at any hardware store.

Loss or burning of masonry elements

The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace in which the old brick was located is cleaned with their own hands from the remnants of clay and accumulated dust, then moistened with plain water. A small amount of clay is placed in the prepared place for the new brick. A fresh stone is dipped into the water and covered with clay on all sides except for the front, so that all joints are securely fastened. Then it is laid in place of the removed stone. Mortar, on which a new element is planted, is prepared in the same way as a mixture for sealing cracks.

Medium repair of stoves and fireplaces

This type of work includes strengthening the structural elements of the stove:

• The loose firebox door is strengthened by parsing the surrounding masonry. After that, the door must be fixed again, using a piece of thick steel wire for this.
• When replacing, it should be remembered that it should not be installed close to the masonry. It is necessary to arrange a gap about 5 mm wide. and fill it with sand. This is due to the expansion of the metal when heated.
• Pre-furnace sheets must be replaced if holes have formed in them or they have begun to rust. Repairing them in such situations does not make sense. The old sheet is removed, the fasteners are dismantled, a felt cushion moistened with clay diluted with water is placed in the place where the new sheet is laid, a new part is nailed on top of it.
• For the purpose of antibacterial treatment, the masonry should be regularly coated with a solution of lime.
• A serious repair is required for a stove that has lost a working one, has a damaged pipe, or needs to re-lay a brick foundation. In the first case, it must be taken into account that the new masonry must be made of the same brick as the old one, so that when heated, all parts of the furnace expand uniformly. The same principle must be observed when laying the chimney pipe.
• Repair if cracks and cracks appear in it.

  Damaged coating elements facing stone carefully removed, the place is carefully cleaned from the remnants of clay, then a little mixture is put there. A new brick is placed after a careful fit.

  Fresh masonry should be perfectly even, for which all flaws are rubbed with their own hands.

Read also: Glue for stoves and fireplaces

Capital restoration

The most complex and serious procedures include the return of the functions of an inoperable furnace, as well as the replacement or modernization of broken main elements, including the roof of the furnace.
Before doing such complex work, especially repairing electric furnaces, it is better to watch a few videos.

• Chimney. For external repairs of this part of the masonry, a simple plastering of the masonry surface is carried out - in this way small cracks can be covered up. If the integrity of the masonry is seriously compromised, it will have to be disassembled and re-folded from fresh material.
• Lining. In case of major breakdowns, in which a complete replacement of this part is required, it is not necessary to affect the main masonry of the furnace. The furnace wall is dismantled from the lower surface of the blower to the furnace, the old lining is dismantled, and the place of its installation is completely cleaned of rubble. The new lining is laid out without adhering to the main tub of the walls. The seams are made thin, 2 mm. or less.
• Reconstruction of the furnace in order to use a different type of fuel. The methods here can be different, but the most common of them is the following. The walls of the furnace are laid out of fire-resistant stone, applying for adhesion so that the masonry can withstand high temperature burning. Slopes are arranged along the perimeter of the firebox so that the coal rolls down onto the grate.
• The sauna stove is repaired by hand in the same way as as usual, only preventive actions are carried out more often, because the combustion temperature of the fuel in such a furnace is much higher than that of heating in a residential building. Brick and mortar, respectively, should have higher fire resistance.

Repair of rotary kilns

The mechanism of operation of a rotary kiln is that inside the masonry from refractory bricks there is a rotating drum in which the necessary material is heated. This determines the severity of the conditions in which the furnace masonry is located: the rotating parts have an abrasive and chemical action on the elements of the furnace roof, in connection with which cracks appear in the body. In the zone in which the material is dried, the chains and the knock-out mechanism of the furnace actively affect the masonry. The elements of the furnace, in which the maximum effect of temperature on the masonry occurs, are made up of fire-resistant bricks based on chromomagnesite or magnesite. To prevent the destruction of the masonry when the rotation of the rotary kiln is stopped, the drum must continue to rotate until the brick body is completely cooled. On average, a furnace can operate for several years before a major overhaul is required.

Repair of industrial furnaces

According to statistics about 80% industrial furnaces on the territory of Russia and neighboring countries are very outdated. They often break down, and the owners face the question - to restore the stove or completely replace it? Due to how old furnaces are and how extensive repairs usually require, repairing industrial furnaces costs about as much as buying new equipment.