Honeycomb table cutting drawing. Plywood sawing table

Such a table can be very useful if there is a shortage of storage space and if you do not work with wood every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and part identification

Many parts only have one dimension. This is because the second is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or, depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this method was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 can be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 plywood sheet. I used BC. NS. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32 ″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25 inch aluminum tubes from onlinemetals.com. They are a little expensive to ship, but were necessary as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1 "electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have in stock and what drills you have access to. A snug fit will give the best results.

8pcs x 2 3/8 ″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

glue & double stick carpet tape

biscuits and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36 ″ long

Notes:

Blue pieces and one short yellow piece of trumpet support. They are shown here but installed under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photographs are 100% accurate. The first table had a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

Bolts are overkill, but bigger size easier to use.

Step 2: cut the strings

The idea here is to have similar parts without moving the saw. A table saw can be used, but this was done with circular saw and the parallel emphasis that came with it.

First cut: Rip 24 ″ off short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. It is important to use some of the cut. Track saw, straight edge, etc.

Second cut: From the other end, use your 24 "piece and subtract 4 plywood thicknesses. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the feet are placed on inside top of the table and outside the shelf.

Cutting them off to either side gives great precision.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces have color coding and if they have a color or a colored point they have one common dimension. Remember to save on right side your line.

Foot note: The feet should be 3 ″ x3 ″ when finished. This leaf cut has a short side measuring long for a rabbit. If you want glue and wood screws or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1 / 4, or 3 ″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut, go back to the first 24 "wide piece made and cut that 37" long. We cut it neatly, with a guide or straight edge of some kind. Save the cut for later as the short skirt ends will come out of it.

The next section of the top shelf is the length. This was done with the second line. Use the top one you just made as a template and subtract four plywood thicknesses. Should be about 34 ″. The ends cut off like a short skirt will be made of this.

Step 3: drilling holes, long planks

1. Take two long 3-3 / 4s. To get the length, spread them out on top and subtract two thicknesses of the plywood. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or Miter saw... Set aside.

2. Cut off two short 4-1 / 2 and the remaining 3-3 / 4. This aspect should be 32-3 / 8 ″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when everything is assembled. Clamp and cut all three at once.

3. Next, drill holes of the required diameter depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all "bottoms" for later editing. Drill holes as straight as possible. For this I used double tape and a drilling machine. All pieces were stacked on a flat surface with the referenced side down. In short, they were in the center and all fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3 / 4 wide as one group, remember shorter in the center and make your marks last longer. They must be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter ones as a template, drill two 4-1 / 2 wide. I would recommend using double-sided tape.

Also notice. If your plywood has a good side / and a bad side that matters to you, flip the boards appropriately. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: drilling holes, short boards

1. Board supports. Cut off the remaining 4-1 / 2 boards approximately 24 ″. I did this by cutting 4-1 / 2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1 / 2 and cut all three at once on a miter saw to the maximum length possible.

2. Pipe supports. Cut long 3-3 / 4 in 2 pieces 22-3 / 8 +/-. They will fit under the table so that their actual size is 24 ″ minus the plywood thickness * 2.

Similar to long boards, these should be stacked and stuck together. Ideally 4-1 / 2, 4-1 / 2, 3-3 / 4, 3-3 / 4, 4-1 / 2 with 3-3 / 4 centered. Remember the bottom markings. If you need to break what I would like to do 3-3 / 4 and 4-1 / 2 and mark them as A. do the rest and mark them as B. You don't want to bend the pipe to get things to fit.

Pay attention to the holes:

My first holes were for a 1 ″ emt conductor. This stuff was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus, expensive aluminum. However 1.25 aluminum through the 1-1 / 4 hole drilled with the fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a feather drill and some sanding.

Step 5: optional rigor mortis

In my table I have mortised legroom. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to stability. That's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, worse thing is to add a few more bolts!

If you choose this should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, before making the holes and ostentatiously before the skirt is added.

Step 6: assemble the top

This should go pretty fast. I used a sponge jointer. If you do, be sure to mark the boards and links at the correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails / screws work as well.

All your pieces were branded on the bottom. Make sure it is visible when you assemble these pieces.

Step 7: drill at the top

There are two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1 / 2 line around the top. From this line of centers of holes 4-3 / 4 apart in the short direction and 5-5 / 16 in the far directions. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 is possible. With some fancy geometries, you could slice through the lines if you really want to. 3/4 ″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3 / 4 x 37 pieces of plywood. Draw line 2-1 / 2 all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5 / 16. Set the 2-1 / 2 link on the drilling machine. Drill one hole line and only opposite two corners.

Place the template on your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, the clamp securely. Drill. Then flip it over and line up the two corner holes with the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4 inch wall plug into each of the two corner holes. Again the clamp and drills are in line. Next, I reeled up the fishing rods, slide the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

This worked pretty well. The holes looked good, but not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut off all legs to 32 ″. This is not critical. If you have other machines you can use in combination with this table I think that changes that. Cut as much as you can safely at once for greater precision. Make sure you don't use more than 3 ″ wide boards... Those on the shelf.

We have 3 ″ stripes and either 2-1 / 4 ″ or 2-1 / 2 ″. According to these plans 2-1 / 2 because there was a rabbit and a dado. If you want to use other methods, use 2-1 / 4 ″. Or technically 3 ″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case, 18mm.

Step 9: assemble the shelves

We cut before. It should be about 34 "(37" minus 4 plywood thickness).

Take the remaining 3 long "wide planks." Spread them out on a shelf on top and put two pieces of plywood at the end to cut the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both out at the same time. Should be around 32-1 / 2 ″.

Assembling the shelf is simple as you did the top one. No need for extra holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I am centered on the shaft 3 ″ of the board and about 4 ″ from the end. I did it much however it would be more useful if several wells are drilled in the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Hole

This guide drills holes in the top and in the shelf exactly. This is not necessary, but if you have all the holes turned off, then the legs will be determined specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.

Step 11: gates

The question of how to independently make milling table, many home masters are asked. This is understandable: equipment on which the router is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves on a specially equipped work table, in many cases is much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a hand mill, the workpiece is fixed on an ordinary table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow observing the accuracy of processing.

The milling table greatly improves the productivity and efficiency of the hand milling cutter. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home. It is much more economical to make a milling table with your own hands. It will not take much time and will require very little financial costs. Any home craftsman can cope with such a task, if desired.

Using a homemade hand router table when processing wood products, you can achieve the results that professional milling machines can get. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list is qualitatively performed technological operations: cutting shaped holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, making connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

The device of a factory-made milling table can be found in the video below. We will try to do not worse, but in some ways even better and, which is very important, cheaper.

A homemade milling table, which you equip your home machine with, will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. tongue and groove elements, chamfer and decorative profiles.

A homemade router table, the manufacture of which does not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It will only be necessary to fix the tool itself - a hand router, for which you can use a drill stand or a workbench. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies are engaged in the manufacture of milling tables and accessories for them, but such a device will have to pay a decent amount of money. A home-made table for equipping a milling machine, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior in functionality to models released in production conditions, and it will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option number 1

Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main units and their dimensions.

Blueprints homemade table for hand router (click to enlarge)

Part Dimensions Sectional Table Double Layer Table Top Cutout in First Layer of Table
Marking the cut of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Sawing the cut according to the markings of the second layer Drawing parallel stop
End plate of the stop Dust extraction pipe Plexiglass safety guard Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a homemade milling table from an ordinary workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, therefore, the bed used to fix the cutter must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be borne in mind that the very milling device attaches to the bottom of the milling table top, so there must be enough free space underneath.

When attaching the device to the tabletop of a home-made table for a hand router, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for a milling machine. Such a plate can be made of sheet metal, PCB or durable plywood. The soles of most router models already have threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads in them, or use special clamps for a milling machine.

The clamps for the milling machine or the mounting plate must be flush with the table top, for this, a selection of the corresponding dimensions is made in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary to connect it to the table top using self-tapping screws, and others so that such a plate can be fixed on the base of the router. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be countersunk.

To make turning on your own more convenient, you can place a regular button on the tabletop, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device even safer to use. To improve the convenience of your home machine you can fix a long metal ruler on the surface of a milling table made for a do-it-yourself hand router.

Before you start designing a do-it-yourself milling coordinate table, you need to determine the place where it will be located, as well as decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate milling cutter with your own hands (the table will be located on the side of the saw equipment, serve as its extension), compact bench machine, free-standing stationary equipment.

You can opt for a compact desktop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you use it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. Such an installation, which is distinguished by its small size, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the size of your workshop allows, then it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine to the router, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be put on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but cheap and cheerful.

The simplest milling table or drilling machine table can be made very quickly. For the manufacture of such a structure, which is easily located on an ordinary desktop, you will need a chipboard sheet, on which the guiding elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for a milling table, is suitable regular board small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop with bolted connections... If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limit stop.

To insert the router into the table in a chipboard sheet, it will be necessary to make a hole for its placement, and it will be fixed on the tabletop using two clamps. After that, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of such a design more convenient, you can place the simplest clamps for a milling machine on the tabletop.

Frame and table top manufacturing

The bed of a home-made milling machine must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it is a frame with supports, on which the table top is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame of the bed, you can use welded metal profiles, Chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare drawings of such a device. On them, it is necessary to designate all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the side of its front must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the milling machine operator. If you are going to process door linings and front ends for them on your homemade machine, then the dimensions of the bed can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the convenience of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment to be used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is desirable to make the lower parts of the bed supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for unevenness in the floor, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table. For the manufacture of turntable with your own hands, it is enough to fix special wheels on its legs.

The assembly of approximately such a table is considered in option No. 2

You can make a milling table, characterized by a low price, high reliability, from the tabletop of an old kitchen table... Such countertops are usually made of a 26 or 36 mm thick chipboard sheet covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface provides good sliding workpieces, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations arising during the operation of the equipment. If you make a work table for the machine with your own hands, then plates made of MDF and chipboard (laminated chipboard) with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option number 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional pull-out drawers, which can be made from lumber and plywood (or MDF). A list of parts with dimensions and recommended material of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their sizes Frame Top corner frame Bottom corner of the frame
Drawer slide Slide guide
Big drawer Small drawer Front of small drawer Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine is quite thick, the mounting plate for attaching the router should have a minimum thickness. This will maximize the use of the departure. cutting tool... It is clear that such a plate at minimum thickness must be of high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in its strength - PCB. The thickness of the PCB sheet should be within 4–8 mm. Using the previously prepared drawings, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the base of the router.

The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as already mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the foot of the router. Holes for fixing the plates to the table surface, which are used as clamps for the milling machine, are made at their four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the insert to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the base of the tool. In order not to make a mistake when making a plate, you must first prepare its drawing, on which you must indicate dimensions of this part, the diameters and the location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the table surface using clamps.

Video from detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most masters, such a table will be unnecessarily complicated, but perhaps someone will learn useful ideas when creating your own hardware.

Assembling the milling table

Universal milling table or start assembling from the tabletop attachment to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, its outline is drawn with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the indicated contour, for which a hand-held milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess must be such that the plate fits into it flush with the surface of the countertop.

It will not work to make a recess with right angles with a round cutter, therefore, on the plate itself, the corners must also be rounded off with a file. After fixing in the worktop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router base. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the countertop itself.

When the requirements for the equipment are small and there is no desire to get involved with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.

PROMA at a price of about 6 thousand rubles is one of the cheapest factory milling tables

To perform such an operation, you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high precision. On the back of the tabletop, you also need to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector cover and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all of the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos placed in this article.

The final stage in assembling a homemade milling table is to connect all of its structural elements... First, a router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the countertop using countersunk self-tapping screws, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after these operations have been completed is the tabletop itself securely attached to the bed.

Milling table drawings: option No. 3

A compact desktop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.

Computer model Assembly view Rear view Front view
Milling cutter up, flaps open Milling cutter down, flaps open Manual frezer Hose from the vacuum cleaner for removing dust and shavings
Milling cutter attachment and chip evacuation Adjusting the cutter lift The cutter is lifted by turning the screw.
Adjustment of the cutter overhang Plexiglass platform before installing the router

Making the upper clamp

Asking how to do homemade machine safer in operation and to ensure the convenience of processing large-sized workpieces on it, you can equip such equipment with an upper clamp. Drawings must also be prepared to create this roller-based fixture.

A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as the roller for the pressure device. Such a roller is mounted on a holding device that allows it to be fixed at any distance from the table top. With the help of this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed while moving along the surface of the working table.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

In order for your home-made wood router to be distinguished by high performance and functionality, you must equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine for shallow woodworking, a 500W electric motor will suffice. However, equipment with a low power drive will often shut down, which will negate all the savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The best choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power ranging from 1 to 2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device like a real woodworking milling machine. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on such a machine. To equip the drive of the machine, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as on hand tools(drills, grinders, hand cutters).

Welcome to our page " Multifunctional workshop table - the idea of the Festool MFT 3 table "!

In this review photo and video gallery, Arsenal Master specialists have made a selection ofoto and video on the theme of variations of the multifunctional table Festool MFT 3: improvements, improvements, fixtures and homemade options.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product, you can print this page independently and free of charge.

You have interesting photos, ideas, suggestions? You can send for posting in this review (with an explanation and your data, as the author) via or by e-mail: ... In the reviews to this page, you can write your comments.

It is not in vain that the Festool MFT / 3 table has gained popularity all over the world among Craftsmen working both in workshops and on the road. MFT - Multi Function Table is a combination of a mobile desktop and a workbench.

Its main advantage: versatility and ease of use. Its popularity is due to the fact that the manufacturer combined the convenience of carpentry solutions (with fastening stops and clamps on the tabletop in the mounting holes) with a solution? came from the machine tool industry, where almost any tooling is installed on aluminum profiles with a T-slot.

Video:

You can see the idea and possibilities of use in the video from Festool on the MFT / 3 table:

View all purchase options in the catalog with prices

We have distributed this collection by topics:

1. Improvements to the Festool MFT3 table and expanding its capabilities

If the Master lacks the standard features of the product or something seems unfinished, then he begins to improve it at his discretion. And here the main thing is not to be too clever. But if you approach the matter with all passion, you get a good decision. We will show some of these successful solutions.

The MFT3 table is initially mobile. Accordingly, his legs for stationary serious work are not stable enough, even with a diagonal traverse. And I would like to use its capabilities to the fullest. So they came up with the first thing to install the MFT table on another more stable desktop. And the MFT with legs folded or removed allows it. There are many options, but the essence is one:

He is with "adult" wheels:

Base on aluminum profiles:

And composite:

Video:

The process of making such a table can be seen in the video:

An extended version of the MFT / 3 table, assembled using native components. Elongated side profiles 2 meters long are custom-made items that you can order from us.

Additional "body kit":

2. Homemade table options

An interesting realization of the idea of the MFT 3 table from the Nizhny Novgorod master Maxim G. Here, instead of the standard round holes in the top panel of the tabletop, rectangular windows are cut out. Clamping the workpiece with the help in these windows is much faster than in the holes. A standard machine profile with a T-slot is installed in the side strapping board of the tabletop. It works with the same clamps.

Interesting is the idea of a table with a cellular frame underlay. Simple and functional. The table can be fabricated using the Kreg oblique tool:

Video:

on a table with a honeycomb frame:

One more interesting option honeycomb workbench from mirock "s woodshop:

Video:

Video: how to make a honeycomb workbench from mirock "s woodshop

Mobile options:

Semi-stationary multifunctional table of the Craftsman from his native Fatherland. Simple construction, available materials- great budget solution:

Video:

And a video review of it:

One of the most popular tables in the image and likeness of MFT 3 is the project mobile table Multifunction workbench (abbreviated as MFTC) by Timothy Wilmots.

Video:

Video of homemade multifunctional table MFTC

Stationary options:
Stationary versions of the MFT table offer a good stable base. Wizards use a variety of solutions.
The simplest ones are, of course, the most budgetary ones:

The simplest ones can be in the form of a curbstone:

For example, using even inexpensive materials (plywood, mdf, pine blocks and plain), you can achieve an excellent result. You just need to be careful, fit all the details well with the help, polish and cover with high quality. And here it is, the embodiment of a budget but worthy-looking dream of a craftsman about his multifunctional workbench.

The next option uses only the advantages of working with.

Stationary MFT desktop made with German solidity (below detailed video presentation on it) further revealed the idea of the versatility and possibilities of the Festool MFT table:

Video:

A few more solutions from European and American craftsmen, which take advantage of all three clamping options on the workbench: using rail profiles, using conventional vices and using stops installed in the holes in the tabletop:

The version on standard aluminum machine profiles: quickly assembled and due to the standard profiles has a great versatility in the implementation of your ideas. For greater stability, it is better to install corner inserts.

One more interesting project stationary workbench on casters from Peter Parfitt from England (below video on it):

Video:

And the most fundamental, in our opinion, the development of the MFT table idea is a workbench table from Holzwerken.
A solid and well thought-out solution with interesting ideas:

Video:

Video review of this workbench:

3. Homemade fixtures for the ITF table

Drawers and shelves:

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible with a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This setup is rare and the commercially available options are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface to be treated, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade construction will replace the industrial machine

There are three main types of milling tables:

Stationary - a specialized design, as a rule, bulky and non-portable.
Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the saw table surface.

Construction diagram

For self-production of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic covers, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that the metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will be an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.

The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and planks, these materials are reasonably priced.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.

Convenient when selecting the cutter diameter

In milling operations, a rip fence is often required to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For the work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for different processes... The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-production you can read this design.

Required tools and materials

Joiner's glue.
Bolts with nuts.
Screws.
MDF board and birch plywood sheet
Electric jigsaw.
Spanners.
Sandpaper.
Ruler.
Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden poles or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a table top, support and parts for a milling table will be using MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:

1 MDF panel, 19x1000x1800 mm.
1 plywood sheet, 19x1000x1650 mm in size.
1 plate, 4x30x30 mm in size.
Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.

Sawed sheet material into fragments according to the indicated dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - kerchief (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

It is necessary to remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking with cutters on the surface of the table top.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template for marking

On the largest cut-out part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make a markup for the cutter. To do this, draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle, placing a mark. Then place the overlay so that the adjustment mechanisms of the router are closer to the edge of the table. With the trim evenly positioned, mark the places for drilling the holes, which will be fixed with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the edge of the sole as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

From the middle of the cut off part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D / 2- (D-H).

Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole

With the help of the holes in the base of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using the overlay as a template

Drill holes for fasteners and cutters in parts # 2 and 3. At the base and front of the stop, mark out the semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut out the semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made

Fasten four strips (part no. 7) to the underside of the tabletop with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy glue

Glue the rest of the blanks and fix them with screws. Install a router underneath the worktop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the gantry; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop

Now it is necessary to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

Saw plywood into pieces according to dimensions.
Assemble the structure of the table, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear rack

Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the cover and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the milling cutter to process parts as much as possible

As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and outline its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the countertop, sanding the edges of the cutout.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

Drill holes at the attachment point of the cutter and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten with the screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help to further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut the guides from the T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stops make the process easy

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for attaching the hold-downs, trims and guards.
To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a dust extraction pipe. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we do round hole for attaching an adapter connection for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

Add a plywood and plexiglass protective shield for the stop.

For convenience, wing nuts are used

For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. It is better to use maple wood when making a pressure-comb. To cut out a part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood grain. The crests of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

Fix the guide with the clamps. Sand all table surfaces, especially in places where milling work... Clear all wooden elements dust and coat with oil.

Safety engineering

When working on milling machine accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed must be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable that the hands are close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to the relatively inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.