Wall or ceiling cladding different premises, including loggias are often performed using MDF panels. This material does not require a large number of components; the technology of its installation is quite simple. The assortment is presented by different types of panels, which differ in size, shade and texture.

Learn more about MDF material

In order to make the final decision for yourself which wall cladding is better for DIY installation in certain conditions, you need to study information about the material: structure, properties, scope.

Dimensions, characteristics

MDF is a material that is made from carefully chopped wood (sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste). Wood dust is exposed high temperatures and pressed. The bonding agent in this case is paraffin and lignin.

Surface cladding is performed with sheets and panels of different dimensions: length varies from 900 to 3660 mm; width from 150 to 2070 mm; thickness from 1.8 to 60 mm. Most of the formats are non-standard, which allows you to choose the option you want.

The standard dimensions in length are 2.6 m. Less common material is 2.4 m long, as well as 2.7 m. The value of the parameter in width varies greatly: from 0.15 to 2.07 m.

Main characteristics:

• Environmental friendliness;
• Excellent strength properties;
• Long-term operation;
• High-quality surface of the panels;
• Soundproofing properties.

Where is it applied?

MDF is used in construction (wall cladding, ceilings, doors), furniture production, automotive industry. For laying on loggias, a material is required that is characterized by resistance to temperature extremes, moisture and ultraviolet radiation. These criteria are met by MDF, in particular moisture-resistant sheet panels.

Preparation for work

Facing the surfaces of the walls and ceiling of the loggia is carried out in several stages, the first of which is the preparation of the material. The sheet panels are transferred to the balcony so that they acquire the desired level of humidity. This will avoid deformation of the MDF.

Tool

• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette
• Hacksaw for woodworking, scissors for metal;
• Level.

From consumables you will need wood screws, clamps and galvanized corners. And, polyurethane foam, sealant.

Supporting materials

Decorating the balcony with MDF panels is carried out using components and materials:

• Any insulation from a number of existing ones (mineral wool, penofol, penoplex, etc.);
• Fasteners (nails, screws, clamps);
• Primers for different materials (concrete, wood);
• Fittings for MDF;
• Wooden beams or special profiles for gypsum boards for lathing.

Room measurements and MDF calculation

Decorating the walls and flow with your own hands requires accurate measurements of the room. First of all, you need to determine the length and height of the walls. The number of panels can be determined by drawing a diagram of their best position on the wall.

In this case, you need to form a pattern, and there should be as few seams as possible. The number of bars / profiles for the lathing is determined based on the dimensions of the wall and the sketch, which takes into account the distance between the guides (50 cm). The dimensions of the bars are selected taking into account the unevenness of the surface (25x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 30-50 mm).

Step-by-step panel mounting technology

The lathing allows you to create more solid construction... The advantage of this solution is that there is no need to specifically level the surface of the walls. But the crumbling base (concrete, plaster) must be treated with a special compound that will strengthen it. Other means are used for wood - antiseptics.

Step 1: The choice of the type of frame and its installation

There are two types of battens: from wooden planks and a metal profile for gypsum board. The first option is cheaper, but it is susceptible to humid environments. For this reason, it is better to install such a frame on a loggia that is well insulated. The metal counterpart is stronger and withstands any operating conditions.

The distance between the two slats should be 40-50 centimeters. The bottom rail is attached at a distance of about 3-5 cm from the floor.

Procedure for mounting the battens:

1. The highest point of unevenness is determined, it is here that you need to fix the first bar;
2. On the rest of the wall surface, you will have to put edged material;
3. If the wall is flat, the installation of horizontal guides is carried out from below, after which the upper bar is installed, and then the crossbars;
4. The distance from the floor and ceiling is 3-5 cm.

The fastening of the wooden frame is carried out by means of dowel-nails, self-tapping screws. For metal, anchors, metal screws are used.

Step 2: Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation is placed between the battens of the crate. Its thickness should correspond to the height of the frame, in otherwise sheet panels will deform. For installation between the lathing guides, almost any insulation is used: mineral wool, penoplex, polystyrene.

The insulation should be located over the entire surface of the wall, including under the belts of the sheathing. Otherwise, the heat loss on the balcony can be up to 40%.

The insulation is simply laid into the cells of the frame. If the sheet panels are glued to the surface of the walls, thermal insulation with increased strength is applied.

Step 3: fixing the MDF

Balcony decoration with MDF panels is carried out using different types of fasteners: self-tapping screws, cleats, installation on glue. If an adhesive is used, it is recommended to use moisture resistant materials that are versatile and suitable for attaching the material to different types surfaces (concrete, plaster).

Detailed step-by-step instruction

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Alignment of the walls of the loggia;
2. Thorough cleaning and degreasing;
3. Primer;
4. Glue application.

Self-tapping screws for wood are used to fasten MDF to a wooden frame. They are installed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the edge of the panel. This will allow you to hide the caps of the screws under the corners and baseboards.

Step 4: Connection and fastening on clamps

From the side of the thorn, MDF is fastened with self-tapping screws. If the panel rests against a corner of the wall, the connector must be cut off. The next panel is attached not only by snapping into the groove, but also using glue. The connecting element is glued. Cleamers also secure sheet panels securely.

On the side of the MDF panel, where the groove is located, a clasp is fixed. Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws on the rail.

When moving to another wall, the material is cut at 45 degrees (from the side of the groove), the next panel is cut 45 degrees from the side of the tenon. The last panel is rounded off from the end.

Slope finishing

MDF is allowed to be installed along and across the slope. The preferred option is determined by its width. For narrow slope it is better to choose a transverse installation of the material. For the purpose of finishing the corner sections and cracks, special corners, profiles, skirting boards have been created. With their help, you can hide any leaks. The components are cut and installed using an adhesive.

Thus, finishing the MDF ceiling with panels or other surface (walls, slopes, parapet) is done in different ways: with glue, screws, nails and lathing. The first option is the least reliable and requires maximum effort: leveling the walls of the loggia, cleaning, degreasing, priming

MDF panels are a fairly popular material that many people know about, and who does not know, they will definitely get acquainted with it in the process of selecting coatings and compositions for wall decoration. MDF is a fairly thin and light type of coating that can be used for a number of works, which include finishing vertical surfaces... Panels are made from small particles of wood, interconnected into a single array using high pressure accompanied by heating. The main component is lignin - a natural substance released by wood under the influence of high temperatures. And the main advantage of MDF panels is that they do not contain substances hazardous to human health (for example, phenol, which can be part of a number of adhesives used to create other derivatives from wood residues). Although a number of third-party substances, in addition to lignin, each panel still contains. It can be epoxy resin, which, when cured, does not pose a danger to the body.

On a note! The abbreviation MDF stands for "fine fraction".

The panels created in production are then decorated. That is, they need to be painted, pasted over with a special film, and laminated. Only then can the panel perform a decorative function. She is often capable of simulate various natural materials such as wood or stone, but it can also have a completely different, brighter and more creative color.

MDF is used in various fields of human activity, but first of all - for the production of furniture, doors, materials used to decorate surfaces inside rooms. In the latter case, we can say that the panels are suitable for finishing vertical and horizontal surfaces, including the ceiling, sometimes they are also used for decorating floors, but extremely rarely (here a lot will depend on the type of MDF, which will be discussed below). Most often, all the same, the panels can be seen precisely on the walls and ceilings.

Important! MDF panels that do not have a specific treatment do not like high humidity, therefore, they can only be used indoors, provided that they are sufficiently dry and warm. Otherwise, the material will deteriorate very quickly. But laminated panels can be used to decorate kitchens and bathrooms.

The coating fully complies with sanitary standards and requirements, which means that the panels can be used for decoration even in bedrooms and children's rooms, if desired. Panels are a great option to keep walls flat and pleasing to the eye in any room. The main thing is to choose them correctly.

Find out how to complete and also check out interesting ideas(photo) and instructions, in a special article on our portal.

Panel types

Not all MDFs are the same and can be purchased for all types of work. It is important to understand here that there are certain types of panels, and each is used only in certain cases.

Table. The main types of MDF.

View	Characteristic
Solid pressed	This is a standard panel that is produced just in the normal pressing process and is a web of wood fibers. The material will have moderate strength, smooth surface, good heat and sound insulation. Such MDF is inexpensive, but environmentally friendly and safe. Compared to analogs, this is the cheapest option. But the material does not differ in increased moisture resistance, does not have any additional processing, and the color of different boards may differ even in the same batch. Typically, such slabs are used for decoration of premises for various purposes.
Moisture resistant	This panel has increased resistance to moisture, it is more dense than the previous version, stronger and more resistant to mechanical stress. These panels can be used to decorate bathrooms.
Laminated	This is a rather expensive panel, but it is resistant to a number of impacts. It is not afraid of water, as its surface is laminated and will not let moisture inside. The panels are not afraid of abrasion, as well as exposure to a number of substances. Sometimes, due to their stability, such panels can even be used for outdoor work (the main thing is that they are not exposed to constant exposure to water, so such panels should be mounted on the street only under awnings).
Other special	In theory, a moisture-resistant panel also belongs to this category, but it is used quite often and therefore was described separately. And so they also distinguish heat-resistant, flexible panels and a material that has an increased density. Flexible ones can be used to decorate arches and other curved structures, high-density panels will perfectly cope with strong mechanical stress, but heat-resistant or fire-resistant ones are not afraid of fire and practically do not burn due to the content of a number of special substances in them. And they can be fixed in the area of ​​fireplaces and stoves, as well as very close to heating boilers.

Depending on how the MDF panel is finished, it is also subdivided into several types.

1. Veneered, which resembles ordinary natural wood in appearance. Sometimes it is almost impossible to distinguish such a panel from an ordinary wooden board. That is, the panel is covered with veneer on the outside - thanks to it, it is possible to achieve the desired appearance. Veneer is the thinnest layer of natural wood. This is the most expensive version of MDF.
2. Painted panel can have any color that can be achieved through the application of coloring compositions to the material. Moreover, MDF can be matte or glossy. There is no imitation of wood texture.
3. Laminated panel- cheap and affordable, this explains its popularity. The outside is usually covered with a melamine film. Such panels look beautiful, and they are not afraid of water. They are also easy to clean.

As for the format, the following can be used for wall decoration:

• slatted MDF, 2.5-3.8 mm long and 13-28 cm wide;
• tiled square shape with a side width of 30-98 cm;
• sheet, with a length of one panel 1.25-2.5 m.

In the apartment, you can use both slatted and tiled variations of MDF. But for finishing spacious rooms it is better to buy a sheet version.

Prices for MDF panels

MDF panels

Advantages and disadvantages

We can say that MDF is one of the simplest, easiest and convenient ways finish the walls and align them. But these panels have a number of other advantages as well.

MDF characteristics

1. Panels can protect walls from external influences.
2. The price of the material is relatively low, while it is quite environmentally friendly and safe for humans.
3. It is easy and convenient to work with MDF - they are light and easy to handle, do not generate dust, a minimum of debris is generated. And you can use both a hacksaw and a jigsaw to cut the panels. To install the panels, you do not need to have any special skills, just read the instructions on the Web. Yes, and you will not have to level the walls beforehand if the fixation of the material is made on the bars.
4. If necessary, MDF is easy to dismantle.
5. Cleaning the panels is simple - you can easily remove dirt from them using a damp cloth.
6. The material is beautiful appearance, is able to simulate various surfaces, and also has heat and sound insulation properties. This judgment is especially true if the panels were attached to a wooden frame base.

But it should be understood that there is not a single material that does not have flaws. And MDF has them too. So, the material (especially - simple, not laminated) is afraid of high levels of humidity. Also, the panels are not durable, and if desired and as a result of carelessness, they can be easily damaged. Therefore, in fact, they rarely decorate the floors. MDF, in addition to the refractory version, burns well, and this is also its minus. It is important to remember that when mounted on a wood frame, the panels will take up some space and may somewhat narrow the room. So it's not always worth mounting them in cramped rooms.

Find out what to use for, as well as familiarize yourself with the options and the installation process, in a special article on our portal.

Where to start work? Tools and materials

Working with MDF is easy and simple, but nevertheless, the master will need a certain set of tools and materials. So, this is without fail a jigsaw or a hacksaw for sawing, a screwdriver, a pencil, a puncher, a tape measure. From materials in the right amount you need to purchase fasteners, the panels themselves, as well as wooden bars or metal profiles. If wires will be laid behind the panels, then it is advisable to purchase a corrugation for them.

Advice! Determining the required amount of coverage is simple - for this you need to take measurements from the walls and perform simple arithmetic operations. By the way, it is better to purchase panels with a small margin - in the process of work, some of them may be damaged, and there should be no gaps between individual strips. So some panels may need to be replaced.

Finishing corners will give a complete look to the wall trimmed with MDF. It is worth purchasing them in advance and installing them after finishing the installation of the coating.

How can the panels be fixed?

There are two ways to fix the material to the walls - using glue or a frame. The choice of the method is usually made depending on the condition of the walls and the wishes of the master. So, glue option involves the installation of panels on adhesive composition type "liquid nails", but this method is suitable only if the surface of the walls themselves are not curved. This is the simplest method, but limited in its application. In other cases, only the wireframe method becomes relevant.

Frame method of fixing MDF- this is the creation on the surface of the wall of a structure resembling a crate made of bars or metal profiles. A similar frame is created when installing drywall on walls, only the crossbars will be located horizontally. The step between the horizontal supports is 50 cm, and between the vertical bars that support the horizontal ones - about 3 m.

Fastening of the panels themselves to the crate is carried out using clamps. They are installed from the end of the panel so that they will not interfere with fixing the next panel on the crate, but they will perfectly hold the one that was fixed with their help.

Wall panels are a quick and inexpensive renovation, and at the same time, a neat and stylish appearance of the room

The process of mounting panels on a frame

Step 1. The first step is to inspect the walls and identify the most prominent place on them. It is on him that you will have to focus on creating the frame. On the wall surface, using a pencil, you can make notes for the lathing (the distance between the horizontal parts of the lathing is 40-50 cm). You need to take a block of 20x40 mm and cut it into pieces of the required length (this is usually the width of the wall).

Important! The frame slats are always attached strictly perpendicular to the panels, so if they have a different orientation, then the frame lines will be drawn in accordance with their orientation (for example, not horizontally, but vertically).

Step 2. Next, the bars must be attached with screws on the wall strictly horizontally. It is important to understand that if the wall is concrete, then you first need to mark the holes for the dowels, drill them, install the dowels, and then attach the slats to them.

Step 3. It is necessary to fix all the elements of the crate, observing a step of 40-50 cm. Above and below, near the floor and ceiling, you need to maintain a small distance - about 3-5 cm to the base.

Step 4. Before proceeding further, it is important to make sure that the slats are secured evenly. This can be done using a level.

Prices for building levels

Building levels

Step 5. If the wall is not even, then you can align the slats by placing pieces of bars of the required thickness under the necessary places for support. These pieces of bars must be secured with self-tapping screws.

Step 6. It is important to fix the details of the crate both along the edges of the walls and in the area of ​​doorways.

Step 7. Now you can start assembling the first panel. It starts from the corner of the room - you need to attach the first panel to the corner of the wall and check with a level that it is level. The panels can be cut to the required length if required.

Step 8. Next, the panel must be attached to the battens of the crate using self-tapping screws. They are screwed in only along the edge of the panel. Moreover, only the first panel or the last panel is additionally fixed to the screws (in places that will be covered with plinths, corners, etc.).

Step 9. For fastening the rest of the panels, you need to use special fasteners - clamps. Kleimers need to be installed like this - push into the groove earlier installed panel and fasten on the crate construction stapler or small nails.

Step 11. Then you need to fix the panel with a kleimer on the crate.

Step 12. All panels are fixed in the same way.

Step 13. If the panels need to be cut, then this is done like this. First you need to apply markup to the panel - how much it needs to be shortened or made narrower. And then just cut off the excess with a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

Step 14. After all the panels have been installed, you can install the fittings to give the wall a finished look. Folding corner seamy side you need to apply glue, then fold it and glue it into the joint between the walls, pressing firmly. Excess glue should be removed immediately with a cloth. The installation of the panels is over.

Screwdriver prices

Screwdriver

Video - Wall decoration with MDF panels

Nuances of work

Installation adhesive prices

Assembly adhesive

It is not difficult to work with MDF panels, but there are certain nuances that should be taken into account when installing this material. So, the panels immediately need to be joined very tightly - any gaps between them are quite difficult to close, and they will be striking. Where it is possible to hide the caps of the screws, it is better to additionally fix the panel itself with them - this will avoid distortions of the material in the future.

It is best to cut the ridge from the first panel before installation. She doesn't need him, but his absence will allow her to move the panel as close to the corner as possible. Cutting is easy, but sometimes it can crumble and the laminate can wrinkle. So you need to work with a hacksaw or a jigsaw blade with a very fine teeth then this can be avoided.

Important! Always cut the material from the front side!

Some communications can also be laid behind the panels. But it is important to take this aspect into account even before installing the frame, since the thickness of the bars will directly depend on how wide the free space is needed between the panels and the wall.

Find out what popular options you can use in a special article on our portal.

In general, there are no difficulties in wall cladding with MDF panels. The main thing is to follow the instructions clearly. A beginner can do the job too, so this is a great chance to save money on renovating the premises if you do MDF installation by ourselves.

Interior decoration premises is a task that is relevant both for residential buildings and for public buildings. Among the assortment presented building materials Various panels made of synthetic and natural raw materials are very popular. The last group of products includes MDF panels, whose variety of types allows you to choose a material for facing any type of room.

Peculiarities

Natural materials have always been at the peak of their popularity, but, unfortunately, their volume is very limited. In this case, the correct and effective solution was the use of various production wastes from a natural product, which makes it possible to reduce losses, as well as to obtain attractive and high-quality raw materials.

This is how materials such as chipboard and fiberboard appeared on the shelves of hardware stores, and subsequently a fiberboard called MDF.

Similar products received wide application in the course of wall decoration in the premises, they are preferred for use in apartments, for cladding bedrooms, kitchens and bathrooms, for finishing office space etc. A similar trend is due to the environmental safety of raw materials, acceptable cost, as well as ease of installation, due to which it is quite possible to fix these products at home with your own hands.

The main components of MDF panels are wood chips and other waste of this raw material. In such a composition, special substances are introduced and pressed.

Material manufacturing technology includes the following processes:

• The threshing device chops the wood into pieces of a given size.
• The resulting fragments are washed and sieved. As a result, larger chips and various debris are sifted out.
• After that, the resulting composition is processed with steam.
• The finished and refined raw materials are injected epoxy resin and the mass is carried out under a high pressure press.

• Received sheet material cut into products of specified sizes.
• To give a smooth surface, the panels go through the process of grinding and processing with decorative compounds. Work to make the product look attractive consists in covering the base of the material with a film, lamination or painting. The first option allows the panels to acquire a resemblance to wood or stone.

Besides, decorative coating provides products with protection from dirt and moisture, which greatly expands the range of product applications.

The positive features of MDF panels include the following properties:

• Environmental friendliness of the material - phenol is not used during the manufacture of products, which indicates the harmlessness of the resulting raw materials.
• It is possible to sheathe walls or ceilings without the involvement of hired workers.
• Cutting the material is quite simple, with virtually no debris left behind.
• Today, a large assortment of similar products is on sale, among which there are panels of various colors and textures. Due to such a variety, with the help of products, it is possible to realize almost any design solutions not only for small intermediate rooms, such as an entrance hall, corridor or toilet, but also to decorate the main living rooms- hall or living room.

And the cabinets, decorated with MDF panels, will allow you to emphasize good taste and the status of the owner.

• The material is characterized by heat-insulating and sound-insulating qualities, due to which the level of comfort in the room increases.
• The products do not need any specific care, any dirt can be easily removed with a damp cloth.
• Since the main raw materials used for the production of products have low cost, the material itself has a reasonable price.
• Surfaces can be sheathed in several ways, due to which in some cases there is no urgent need to level the bases.

Fasteners to the frame will hide all existing defects on the walls.

In addition to the advantages, the products have some negative qualities:

• the presence of additional coating on products does not provide 100% resistance of the material to moisture;
• it should be borne in mind that the structure will take away some area of ​​the room when mounted on a crate;
• despite its environmental safety, the products belong to the category of fire hazardous building materials.

Views

Taking into account the specifics of the production technology of products at each separate stage, MDF panels have the following characteristics common to all products:

• the strength of the material varies from 600 to 1200 kg / m3;
• the average tensile strength of the product is 0.55 MPa;
• the permissible level of leaf moisture should not exceed 10%;
• as a percentage, the level of various additives in raw materials is 10%;
• the thickness of the product varies from 6 to 40 mm.

Based on the production method, there are several main types of MDF panels:

• Moisture resistant products. The material is remarkable high rates strength, as well as high cost. Such products do not deform even after prolonged contact with water, they tolerate mechanical stress and stress well. The panels are recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, and in some cases the products are used for exterior decoration structures.
• Solid pressed products. The material is produced by hot pressing the panel components. The finished product has a smooth base, the level of strength of the panels is average in comparison with other types. Based on the cost offered by manufacturers, the product can be attributed to economy class products.
• Laminated products. The product manufacturing process is similar to the method described above. Among individual characteristics it is worth noting the ability of the material to repel water, abrasion resistance, as well as resistance to contact with chemicals. Due to their characteristics and strength, the products can be installed not only indoors, but also outside, however, they are not suitable for constant contact with moisture.

Taking into account the variety of external design of the slats, the products can be classified as follows:

• Veneered panels. They differ in similarity in texture and color with natural wood... To achieve this effect, the outer side is covered with a veneer layer of about 3 mm.
• Glossy. They have a laminating film layer. Due to its presence, the material acquires a shiny appearance and resistance to moisture.
• Painted panels. For work applies special composition, which sets the desired shade and hides possible irregularities in the base.

Painted products can be either matte or glossy.

Given the differences in product density, manufacturers distinguish the following types of material:

• HDF - where the value exceeds 800 kg / m3;
• LDF - density ranges from 200 kg / m3 and above.

The front surface of the panels can be milled or flat.

Focusing on covering possibilities, the material is divided into the following types:

• rack and pinion;
• tiled;
• sheet.

Scope of application

MDF panels have found their application in several industries at once. These include the production of furniture, the construction industry, with the help of products you can mount partitions, arches, etc.

The following types of work can be distinguished where these products are in demand:

• production of door leaves;
• roof lathing device;
• production of window sills;
• with the help of panels, protective screens for ventilation and heating devices are made;
• products are used for suspended ceilings and flooring;
• in the course of wall decoration.

Preparatory work

To determine the amount of material required to decorate the bases, certain measurements should be taken - measure the width of the walls. Since the panels are manufactured in different sizes Having decided on a specific type of material, the width of the wall should be divided by the same size of one product.

However, even properly organized work can be associated with various damages facing products, so it is best to purchase a little more material.

Preparatory process, preceding the installation of MDF panels on the frame, includes the following set of works:

• In order to fix the products on a wooden or metal frame, it is not necessary to level the surfaces. In this case, it will be enough to clean the walls from dust and dirt. But serious defects require mandatory sealing.
• All the wiring that is available in the room is hidden in corrugated pipes.
• If you plan to lay the material in rather damp rooms, the walls should be pre-treated with an antiseptic primer.

Preparatory work, which precede the installation of products on glue, are reduced to the mandatory cleaning of the base, after which the walls must be primed.

Rack type panels are cut taking into account the height of the walls, corners are cut off, the edge is processed with sandpaper.

If you plan to glue square products, their size is adjusted after trying on.

How to fix it correctly?

The choice in favor of one or another method of installing such products is based on the condition of the walls, as well as the specifics of the room and the conditions in which the material will be used in the future.

The frame installation option is reduced to the installation of lamellas on a specially equipped crate.

• if there are serious defects on the wall that cannot be corrected;
• when there is a question about the need to provide sound insulation and thermal insulation;
• you need to hide various communications under the finish, for example, wiring.

The frame can be made from timber or a galvanized profile. Each option has positive and negative features. Wooden structure does not need a large number fasteners, it can be attached with self-tapping screws, in addition, the raw material has similar characteristics in terms of moisture absorption as the finishing material itself.

The lathing needs additional treatment with antiseptics, since it is susceptible to moisture.

The metal structure is distinguished by its long service life and moisture resistance. In addition, the metal frame guarantees a more reliable and rigid fastening, which is important in wet rooms, where the panels can deform and lengthen.

But the construction of the lathing, which will be many times more durable than the decoration itself, is impractical.

Fixing of products can be carried out both horizontally and vertically In addition, to create a certain pattern, some specialists perform diagonal installation of products. Regardless of the chosen direction of installation, the rails of the frame and the panel must be perpendicular to each other.

The most common is considered vertical mounting, since in the course of such work there is a minimum amount of waste after cutting the products.

After the construction of the lathing, you can start installing the panels.

There are the following cladding possibilities:

• The panels can be glued - in this embodiment, the composition of the products is processed in those places where they will be fixed with the frame. This method is relevant for products with small plate thicknesses.
• Mechanical fastening with hardware - this option will be acceptable for rooms with a stable temperature and normal air humidity.
• Fixing the elements with clamps - the essence of the installation is to put clips on the edge of the rail and connect to the frame with nails. This method is most in demand.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• The panels are adjusted in length, the edges of the products are sanded.
• It is best to install in the direction of the window opening, if any.
• The first plank is installed in such a position that its edge with the ridge is directed to the corner. Next, the panels are attached to the frame guides, a clamp is put on the edge.
• The following panels are fixed with a ridge in the groove to the previous element. The corners and top edge are designed with a universal corner.

The frameless method is chosen only when the bases in the room have a perfectly flat surface.

Installation involves the following steps:

• work should be started from the corner of the room, moving in the direction of the window;
• before fastening to concrete or any other surface, it is necessary to make markings on it that correspond to the dimensions of the facing material;
• for high-quality gluing, the adhesive is applied to the reverse side of the product in a zigzag, after which the element is pressed against the wall and immediately removed;
• after a few minutes, the product is finally pressed to the surface;
• installation can be performed both end-to-end and overlapping;
• corners and edges are sealed with skirting boards or corners.

A huge amount of finishing materials has been invented for today. Among others, MDF panels in our country have become the favorite of many Russians for their attractive appearance and affordability. Today we will talk about how the walls are decorated with MDF panels, about the features of this material, working tools and other related issues.

Representative view of wall decoration with MDF panels

To begin with, let's say a few words about the material itself in order to better understand its purpose and scope.

MDF panel before installation

• The photo shows the simplest version of the MDF panel. Here is a sheet material in two parts. The first is a core made from compressed wood fibers. They are tied together by adhesives. In fact, this is a regular fiberboard, but with some differences.
• The second part is a layer of lamination, a moisture-proof film on which the texture is depicted. It is she who completely determines the appearance of the panel.
• The format of MDF panels can be different - long, short, in the form of strips and even shields.

Walls sheathed with veneer panels

• Externally, MDF resembles wood paneling - there are no other patterns in practice. However, the choice before you will still not be small. For clarity, you can consider the following photo.

Assortment of flowers for home

• The installation method differs depending on the type of panel. The most common is the tongue-and-groove fastening system. The panels are inserted into each other and simultaneously attached to the base on metal brackets or self-tapping screws.
• Fits MDF on wooden frame... This allows you to quickly and efficiently sheathe the walls without preparing the walls. Under the panels, you can place layers of insulation, various communications (heating radiators, electrical wiring, water pipes) and equalize significant differences in the plane of the base.
• Individual panels are mounted using the glue method - you need to prepare a perfectly flat base for them, for example, plywood or plasterboard.

In what rooms is MDF placed

To accurately determine the purpose of the room in which MDF can be installed, you need to find out the properties of this material.

Panels are protected by lamination on all sides

• The main enemy of MDF is moisture. The material, upon contact with water, begins to actively absorb it. This will cause the substrate to swell and flake off the lamination. Immediately, the appearance of the product deteriorates, microorganisms begin to multiply on it.

Interesting to know! There are moisture resistant varieties of MDF. This is a more expensive solution. They are covered with a laminated film on all sides, and also have a special impregnation. They can be used in damp rooms, but direct contact with water is also undesirable.

• The material contains formaldehydes, which are harmful to human health. Especially there is a lot of it in cheap varieties, which are filled with the counters of Russian stores. Because of this, it is better not to put such a finish in living rooms.

How can be done wall decoration in the hallway with MDF panels

• The circle of searches has narrowed. MDF panels should not be installed in bathrooms and kitchens. The second option can still be considered if the panels are located away from the sink and gas stove.
• It is also not recommended to use them in bedrooms and other living rooms.
• A suitable place for them is utilitarian premises, offices, public places. Decorating the corridor with MDF panels will fit well into a private house. In the apartment they can be installed on the balcony or in the same hallway.

Decorating the hallway with MDF panels

If quality material is purchased, then the panels can become an excellent accent spot in the interior of the living room and even the bedroom.

Panel installation process

It is not difficult to master the technique of installing MDF panels with your own hands, the main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of actions and correctly set the frame. Further we will tell about all this in detail and with illustrations.

Work tool

Let's start with preparation. The first thing we need to consider is the tool. The set is simple, but large enough:

	The frame will be mechanically attached to the walls. If the base is made of brick or concrete, then it will have to be drilled to install the fasteners. A hammer drill will do the best for this task.
	If your walls are made of wood, or, as in this case, adobe, the rail to them can be twisted onto self-tapping screws. This requires a screwdriver. It can also come in handy when fixing panels - more on that later.
	The frame can be assembled from wooden slats and a bar or metal profile. To cut the material, in the first case, you need a hacksaw for wood, and in the second, scissors for metal.
	The MDF itself is cut with a jigsaw. There are no special requirements for the quality of the cut, since all the edges obtained in the process are closed with decorative strips.
	The plane of the frame must correspond to the vertical. It can be verified using any level: bubble, laser or plumb line. You can also use the water level to expose the ceiling frame. Important! If you plan to install a metal frame, it is better to use more accurate tools. Bubble level gives errors, so we use it only when working with a tree, since it is almost impossible to set it exactly anyway.
	In work, you will constantly have to measure and cut something, so we have a good five-meter tape measure (preferably two pieces), a construction slate pencil, a carpenter's square.

Also note the following adaptations:

• Stationery knife - helps to unseal panel packs, trim fringes at edges, mark laminate surfaces.
• Hacksaw for metal - needed for cutting fragile, bendable decorative corners.
• Hammer - the edges of the panels, which will hide under the corners, are conveniently attached to nails.
• Stool - we use it as a stand when cutting materials.
• Construction stapler - panels can also be attached to it, if there is confidence in the evenness of the frame.
• Miter box - allows you to cut corners clearly at 45 degrees.
• Mounting glue gun- the corners are glued to the "liquid nails". This glue is sold in plastic tubes, from which it is squeezed out with a gun, as in the photo below.

Assembly gun for glue application

Other tools can be adapted for work. We will also mention some of them in the section on installation.

Materials (edit)

Let's move on to preparing the materials. Apart from the MDF panels themselves, we buy the following:

	The universal decorative corner consists of two long strips, connected only by means of a laminated film. This structure allows you to bend the part in different directions and use it as an outer and inner corner. Advice! They handle the corners very carefully, since the film is easy to damage, which will instantly ruin the entire appearance.
Example of a wooden slat	The frame will be wooden. Depending on the configuration of the walls, you can buy a rail with a thickness of 20 mm and a width of 40 mm, and a bar with a section of 35 * 35 mm and more. Take planed lumber with good geometry - this will make it easier to set the frame to the level. More powerful elements are taken when the walls are heavily heaped up. This is necessary for the strength of the future frame.
	In the process, you will also need direct suspensions. Basically they are taken for the ceiling, but for small indents of the walls, they will be convenient and reliable.
	MDF panels are mounted on clamps - galvanized metal brackets inserted into the grooves. This fastener is hidden. It provides a secure and quick fixation.
	The rail is attached to the walls with plastic dowel screws. If the base is made of wood, self-tapping screws are used.
	"Liquid nails" need to be chosen correctly. You need an acrylic white or transparent compound. Adhesives based on synthetic resins are not suitable, as they get very dirty and can only be removed with a solvent, which can whiten the lamination.

The main materials are all listed. If something comes up, we will additionally mention it during the description of the work.

Wall frame installation

We start with the crate. Frame belts are installed perpendicular to the direction of the MDF sheathing. Usually this direction is vertical, which means that we twist the slats along the horizon.

Assembled lathing on the wall with a window opening - the room looks sad

• Here is the first photo from the site. As shown, the wall is very crooked, and its repairs were done in the distant Soviet past. There is no need to talk about any evenness of the basis. Here's what was done.
• Sheathing belts were installed (the rail was screwed onto the 60s and 70s with self-tapping screws for wood), two main horizontals of the window opening, which will help to form slopes (these parts are placed with long belts in one plane).
• The exposition is as follows. First, the most protruding part is determined by the level - usually this is the top or bottom of the wall. Then, in this place, the first rail, previously cut to length, is attached.
• A nylon thread is pulled along the outer corner of the belt - along it we trim the rail, putting in the right places the blocks, pinned from the rail. You can take any other pads. If the difference exceeds 3 cm, then it would be wiser to put straight suspensions.

Internal corner of the lathing

• Then the opposite rail is placed in the same manner. When setting it, first of all, we focus on the vertical level.

Advice! If your level is short, use it in conjunction with a rule or straight rail of the correct length.

• The base of the frame for the first wall is now complete. Then we fasten the intermediate belts, breaking the wall into segments of 50-60 cm, but no more.
• When passing curved places like the inner corner, as shown in the photo above, you can knock down the plaster a little if possible. The details in the corners are placed in one line and are tightly adjacent to each other.

Checking the evenness of the lathing

• The middle belts are much easier to position. This will help a flat rail applied to the already aligned elements. Again, add the sticks as needed.

Attention! Pads are always made on both sides of the fastening element, since the belt will necessarily be skewed when tightening. Props need not just slip in, but attach to the belt on small nails or glue "liquid nails". The fact is that the tree will dry out over time, and there is a possibility that the bar will fall out, weakening the strength of the frame.

Radiator frame

• If heating radiators are installed on the wall, they also need to be beaten correctly. For beauty and convenience, a box is built around, on the front of which a convection grate is installed.
• Since the structure is partially independent of the base, a more powerful beam was used. Please note that all parts are fastened together with steel furniture corners - this is a quick, convenient, and most importantly, reliable solution.
• The frame is built according to the following principle. First, the side posts and the crossbar connecting them are placed. They are attached to the bottom rail, which is screwed to the floor. Short pieces of timber are connected to the base. Reinforcing details can also be provided additionally.
• Then the position of the grille is determined. According to the data received, internal racks are installed.
• At the end, horizontal lintels are attached.

Attention! You do not need to center the grille in height, you will also have skirting boards installed. It is best to retreat 10 cm from the top edge, then set aside the height of the grate plus 3 mm, and leave the rest as it is.

• A slightly larger niche is needed for the lattice to fit successfully into the opening. The same rule applies to width. At the object under consideration, this principle was not useful, since the purchased grille is needed for adhesive installation.

Frame for interior wall decoration with MDF panels

• This picture shows the ways of passing the openings and outer corners... Look at the door on the left. The main vertical is installed there, which forms the angle of the slope. The belts of the crate come close to it and are tied to the corners and screws.

The large rectangular opening in the middle of the room does not need such details. Reiki from adjacent walls simply converge into a corner and tightened with hardware. At this point, when setting up, the level check is strictly required.

Separately, it should be said about the installation locations of switches and sockets - a crate is also required around the boxes.

Ceiling frame

We proceed to the installation of the lathing on the ceiling. If MDF will be mounted on it.

Ready-made frame for sheathing the ceiling with MDF panels

1. When the wall frame is assembled, its upper belt must be installed at such a height that it is below the ceiling level. And it is better to make it act as a reference point for exposing the horizontal crate.
2. For this, the belt is fastened along the horizontal level along the entire perimeter of the room. For setting, a water level or a laser axial plotter is used. You can also go the other way - use a wider rail, on which then mark the line of the ceiling frame with a dyeing thread. In this case, the master used the first method.
3. You can also use as a guide metallic profile for drywall PPN 27 * 28.
4. The belts of the ceiling lathing are installed - the slats are wound up and placed on the upper wall belts. Then they are placed in 50-60 cm increments.
5. We fasten the parts along the edges to the main ceiling with suspensions. Also, the suspensions rotate in the middle every 70-80 cm. We bend their ears temporarily to the sides.
6. Then we press the belts to the ceiling and attach them to any of the suspensions. We pull across the nylon thread for a reference point and alternately release the slats, exposing it along it, immediately overhauling it on the self-tapping screws.
7. After complete alignment, the belts are attached to all straight suspensions, fixed above them.

This completes the work with the crate, we proceed to the sheathing.

Installation of MDF panels

We unpack the first pack and check the integrity of all panels. If there is a fight, there is no need to get upset - there will be many places where the trimmings will go.

MDF panel layout

• We measure the height of the wall. If the ceiling belts do not adjoin tightly to the wall belts, then you can take larger size, then slipping the panel between the specified parts.
• We lay the MDF horizontally - for this it is convenient to use two stools. We put the resulting length on a tape measure and put a mark with a pencil. To get an even cut, we use a square for marking. It is better to mark the reverse side - this way there is less risk of damaging the lamination.

Cutting MDF Panel

• Cut off the panel straight along the resulting line. If you want to speed up, then you can cut 2-3 pieces at a time - in this case, you will get some difference in lengths, but this is not scary. Make sure that the power of the jigsaw is enough for such a load, and the file does not burn out.

Setting the first lamella on the level

• Sheathing always starts from the corner - better than the inner one. We apply the first panel and rest it against the belts of the adjacent wall. If you set the frame correctly, then the part will immediately be level. Just in case, we double-check and make adjustments if necessary.
• You have the following options for alignment - to slightly extend the desired corner, or partially cut off the edges at the points of contact with the battens to the desired level.

Fixing the panel to the kleimer

• The panel is positioned with the ridge towards the corner and the groove outward. A kleimer is inserted into the groove, as shown in the photo above. There are three holes in this bracket - the central one is designed for screws or nails, and the side holes are for a stapler.
• In our case, the master chose self-tapping screws as the most reliable solution. We attach MDF in this manner to all possible belts.

Fastening panels in a row

• The second lamella (like each subsequent one) is inserted with a ridge into the groove of the previous panel. Thus, the kleimer is hidden and this side is fixed. You need to drive the parts all the way to the stop, but do not use a hammer for these purposes, unless only through a spacer.

Thus, the cladding is carried out along the entire perimeter of the room.

How obstacles are bypassed

It is not difficult to sheathe a smooth wall, especially if you work together - one cuts the panels, and the second fixes them. Only there are few such walls, but there are many with door and window openings, radiators and other obstacles. Here's what to do when passing them.

• The photo shows that the foreman had to bypass the doorway, gas pipe and heating pipes. In the first case, L-shaped cuts are made in the extreme panels, and the upper panels are cut in height (their lower edge is better to be fastened to nails). You need to mark such cuts in place, after inserting the panel into the groove.

Gas pipe outlet

• With pipes, everything is more complicated. It is difficult and even to cut them off and mark them. Very often, when creating rounded cuts in MDF, the files do not withstand heating and burn out. Be sure to stock up on them for future use.

Air conditioner, junction box and switch

• An air conditioner was also on the way. We did not outweigh it, because we don’t know how it’s done, and the owners spared the money to call the master. As a result, I had to bypass it too. A small "hack", but in the end everything turned out very nicely.
• Also visible are the holes for the boxes of electric points. They are made immediately along the plating with a screwdriver and wood crowns.

Structures for radiators are sheathed in the same way. Many different cuttings can be used here.

Ceiling sheathing

We will not write too much about the ceiling, since the work is proceeding according to the same principle. We only note the following.

Joint for ceiling panels

The length of the MDF panel is 275 cm. The ceilings are often much larger, so you have to join the lamellas with their ends (this can also be on the walls). To do this reliably, the position of the belts must be calculated so that the edges exactly fall on the center of the rail, as shown in the photo.

Individual panels can be joined due to the end grooves, but such seams are still noticeable, and are also covered with decorative strips.

Masking corners and seams

Having installed all the panels, you will not see beauty yet, since untidy seams will spoil the whole picture. We carry out the final touches.

Cutting decorative corner

• In this work, accuracy is important. The corners of the room need to be decorated only after installation floor skirting boards... We measure the height of the corner and cut it off carefully with a hacksaw for metal.

Applying glue to the corner

• We lay the part on a flat surface with the back side up, and apply glue to it. This can be done with a dotted or wavy line.

Glued corners decorate the room

• Gently place the element in seat and press down. Squeezed out excess glue immediately wipe off with a dry cloth. The corner can be additionally fixed with masking tape.
• If the corners are installed as a ceiling plinth, they will have to be joined at 45 degrees - for this you need a miter box.

Battery closed by MDF panels

The radiator box is passed in the same way, a decorative grille is installed. This is where the work ends.

Pay attention to the video: MDF installation without a frame.

With the development of technology, more and more building and finishing materials appear on the market. At the end of the last century, we got MDF. There are MDF boards that are used in construction works, there is finishing panels that can be used to decorate walls / ceilings or make furniture.

What is MDF and the method of its manufacture

MDF appeared on our market in last years last century, and it was invented in the United States at the end of the 60s of the 20th century. You can understand what MDF is if you translate its English name - MDF - Medium Density Fibreboard. In Russian it translates as "medium density fiberboard". That is, the Russian-language name was formed using transliteration - instead of Latin letters, they put similar Russians. A common phenomenon for our language.

MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard

Manufacturing process

MDF is made from wood, ground to the state of very fine chips, practically - to the state of fibers. Mostly wood waste is used, so the release of this material does not harm forests.

Milled wood is cleaned of sand and other foreign inclusions, washed, dried. The prepared mass is heated, a tape of the required width is formed from it, and then pressed. Under pressure, a natural binder, lignin, is released from the heated wood fibers. It is he who is the binder in this material. The final shape of the products is passed in a finishing press, which squeezes out the remaining air from the mass, forming a homogeneous structure of MDF.

After pressing, the cooled material is fed to grinding, where flaws on the surface are removed from the MDF, the material is brought to the required thickness.

Not all wood species provide a sufficient amount of binder. Then add a similar, previously isolated, lignin or other natural binder. Of all the sheet woods MDF materials it is considered the safest, since the binder is natural, and the formaldehyde emission is comparable to that of wood (emission class F1, that is, it is allowed to use it for the manufacture of furniture for children's and medical institutions).

Fiberboard can be produced with special properties. Basically, moisture resistance additives increase moisture resistance and reduce flammability.

Appearance and release forms

In its "pure" form, the material has a grayish-brown color, on the saw cut a homogeneous dense mass. The exact shade depends on the type of wood crushed and the amount of bark. In this form, the material is used as a sheet building material - for the construction of light partitions, leveling walls.

The MDF surface can be "refined". It can be painted, laminated with PVC film, pasted over with veneer or plastic. This gives quite big number design options that are used in the furniture industry, in the production of finishing materials.

Manufacturing technology allows you to form products of various shapes, thickness, size. During finishing pressing, a certain relief can be formed, which is used in the production of furniture and doors. Also from MDF they make Decoration Materials- plates, panels. They make plinths, platbands, and other moldings from it. All of these materials can be used for interior decoration.

The structure of MDF is fine-grained, dust is formed during milling, which makes it possible to make carved products. It is used in the manufacture of carved decorative elements - panels, decorative grilles, curly furniture facades.

MDF or chipboard - which is better?

Having entered the market, MDF created competition. This was facilitated by its properties:

All this led to the growing popularity of the material. Even though MDF is more expensive than chipboard. To some extent, MDF even competed with wood. For example, skirting boards, MDF platbands, and finishing panels are increasingly being used. This is due, firstly, to a lower cost, and secondly, to greater practicality. Wood requires regular maintenance - painting, varnishing. MDF does not require special care. It is simply wiped off with a damp cloth, using liquid detergent if necessary.

MDF boards

Manufacturing technology of MDF board allows you to vary the density within wide limits: the minimum indicator is 760-780 kg / m 3, the maximum is 1100 kg / m 3 and even higher. A material with a lower density is used where the abrasion load is low: in the furniture industry, for wall and ceiling decoration.

High-density MDF boards are used for floor finishing. The material of this category has high abrasion resistance: one and a half times higher than that of oak (oak - 6.9, MDF - 10-11). If we add that the coefficient of diagonal warpage is only 1.2 mm for each meter of diagonal (15 mm for plywood), the love of furniture makers and finishers for this material becomes clear.

Dimensions and tolerances

One of the most popular forms of release is slabs of various thicknesses and formats. They can be found with the following parameters:

It is convenient to work with MDF boards, since this material has very small tolerances for deviations from dimensions:

• the difference in thickness cannot exceed 0.2 mm (for plywood, 0.5-2.5 mm);
• the length may differ by no more than 5 mm;
• the take-off in width cannot be more than 2 mm.

When two sheets are joined, the difference in thickness or size is very small or not at all. That's why MDF finish sheets or panels advance quickly.

Types of surface finishing of sheet material

MDF boards are produced with different types surface treatment:

If we talk about construction and repair, then they use polished MDF boards. When leveling walls or installing lightweight partitions, when leveling the floor and ceiling. Here is an approximate area of ​​their application.

Frame mounting

If the surface of the walls or ceiling is uneven (deviations are more than 1 cm), the method of mounting sheet MDF is the same as for drywall - on the frame. The frame is usually assembled from wooden blocks, but no one forbids placing profiles under drywall. The cross-section of the bars is selected based on the unevenness of the wall - they must compensate for all the height difference. Most likely you will need 20 * 30mm bars or something. They are stuffed horizontally with a step of 40 cm. With this step, the joints of the sheets (they exist if the ceiling height is higher than 280 cm) fall on the bar.

For the installation of sheet panels from the same timber, vertical jumpers are installed. They are placed in steps:

• 54.3 cm - for sheets 2170 mm wide;
• 42.3 cm or 63.5 cm for 1270 mm width.

The spacing of the vertical jumpers depends on the thickness of the selected material. For thin sheets (3-4 mm) it should be less, for thick ones (5-6 mm) more can be done.

MDF sheets / plates are attached to the assembled frame. The peculiarity (in comparison with drywall) is that for hidden fastening it is necessary to drill holes for fasteners. Otherwise, fasteners will not go into a dense slab. To prevent the caps from sticking out above the surface, the hole is expanded under them using a larger diameter drill.

After installing the screws, holes remain on the surface. They are sealed with putty. If further it is supposed to putty the walls, act as if - first, fill up the holes with a putty, immediately removing the excess with a spatula. After drying, the places of putty pass with fine-grain sandpaper - in order to finally get rid of possible irregularities. Then, after dusting the surface, they begin to putty the walls.

Installation on glue

If the walls are even, you can mount MDF boards without a frame - with glue. You can use liquid nails or a composition like CM-11. The order of work is as follows:

So that during the installation process the sheet does not move anywhere, you can make holes in the corners and, after alignment, fix the sheet. Even if the self-tapping screw will only hold in the plaster, this will help, since it is required only for initial stage- until the glue starts to harden.

This method seems simpler and less costly (due to the lack of a frame), but it is not at all easy to align bulky MDF boards. Better to try on a small section of the wall. The point is that it is impossible to disassemble what has been established. Only if you destroy the skin completely. So it's worth considering which method is better.

Installation of MDF sheet on the floor

For laying on the floor, choose high-density moisture-resistant MDF boards (from 900 kg / m 3 and above). Sheet thickness - from 5 mm when laying on a subfloor and from 10 mm when installing on joists. In this case, the installation method is similar to leveling the floor with plywood, only the gaps are smaller, since it changes its parameters wood board much less plywood. The rest of the rules are the same:

After sanding the putty, the floor surface is made of MDF boards ready for painting. If you do everything carefully, you get a perfectly flat floor. This base can also be used as a base for flexible finishing materials or laminate flooring.

MDF finishing panels

Finely dispersed pressed boards are used as the basis for the production of decorative finishing panels. Front surface pasted over with paper. This is the cheapest option. Slightly more expensive ones are laminated with PVC film. There are also panels covered with veneer. This is the more expensive material. There are also options with plastic, but very rarely.

MDF panel with three-dimensional image - 3D

Decorative MDF panels are most often sheathed on walls, sometimes - on a ceiling. This method of finishing saves time: the surface is leveled and immediately take the final look, since no additional finishing is required.

Types of decorative MDF panels

It's not about colors and shades, but about the shape of the inlet and the type decorative surface... In shape, the finishing panels made of pressed wood fibers are:

When choosing MDF panels, pay attention to the type of finish. Most cheap stuff covered with paper over which a thin layer is applied protective coating... It is clear that such a surface is quickly scratched; it can only be wiped with an exceptionally soft, slightly damp cloth. Even a rough sponge should not be used, otherwise light spots will form. Such MDF panels are good for finishing the ceiling - there is no mechanical load at all. If you install them on walls, it is better to immediately cover with two layers of varnish. You choose the type of surface yourself - gloss, semi-gloss, matt, semi-matt ... It is important that the film is strong.

More expensive - with PVC and veneer - additional finishing do not require, but at a price 2-3 times more expensive. If your budget is tight, the above is not a bad option.

Installation methods

The MDF panels are mounted either on the frame, or directly on the wall, using glue. The technology is described in the previous paragraph and differs only in that clamps are used for installation - special fastening plates for secret mounting. The first panel on the wall is installed in the corner. Here it is fastened through and through with self-tapping screws. All others are fixed with clamps. After the end of the installation, the corners are closed with a special corner profile... It is mounted on glue - applied in a thin layer and pressed in place of installation.

There is also a system of profiles - starting, finishing, connecting and corner (outer and inner corner). But this fastening system is more expensive, it is used with MDF panels finished with veneer, square or rectangular format.

There is one more subtlety of mounting decorative MDF panels on the ceiling. If you use thin sheets / strips - 3-4 mm thick - you need to put suspensions often, otherwise the material will bend under its own weight. When using slabs 6-8 mm thick, suspensions can be installed less frequently. They are stiffer and do not bend. But the weight of the trim will be greater, so you will have to use more powerful guides and the hangers themselves.