Underfloor heating in a private house is a justified solution: heating the lower air layer significantly increases the level of comfort. When I was looking for materials for laying such floors in my house, I "shoveled" a huge amount of information. I will share the knowledge gained, as well as my experience in designing and installing underfloor heating with you.

Advantages and disadvantages of the solution

The heated floor covering is popular today. Either pipes with hot water, or electric heating elements. This allows us to walk on a warm surface rather than cold tiles / laminate / linoleum.

Dignity:

1. Increased comfort level. This plus is the most important: even in the cold season, you can walk around the house barefoot or in thin socks. In this case, there will be no unpleasant sensations - rather, on the contrary.

1. Economical heating. Heat from underfloor heating elements spreads naturally - from bottom to top. As a result, less energy is required to comfortably warm up the room. In a private house with autonomous heating the savings will be obvious.

1. Possibility of temperature regulation. The operation of underfloor heating can be adjusted so that the degree of heating depends on the room temperature. This will allow us to maintain the microclimate at the desired level - not too cold, not too hot.
2. Relatively simple installation. Almost everyone can lay an electric warm floor with their own hands - in terms of labor intensity, this process cannot be compared with the installation of a heating system. The water variety is a little more difficult, but here you can do without the help of specialists.

Minuses:

1. Additional spending. Everything is logical here: the installation of a separate system requires the purchase of materials and a large amount of work. You can save only on the wages of the foremen.
2. Raising the floor level. Depending on the type of heaters used, the level will rise by 7-12 cm. In private houses with high ceilings, this is rarely a problem, but the thresholds will most likely have to be redone.

1. Not all floor coverings are suitable. Only materials with good thermal conductivity can be laid on top of the heated floor, preferably specially designed for use with warm floors. The use of inappropriate coatings will reduce the effectiveness of the system. Moreover, in the case of electric floors there is a risk of their failure from overheating caused by poor heat dissipation.

Despite these disadvantages, the installation of heated floors in a private house is quite justified. They can be used both as the main source of heat and as additional heating.

Preparation of the base

Installation of a floor in a private house begins with the preparation of a rough covering, which will be the basis for the floor. It must be strong, even and at the same time have low thermal conductivity. The last nuance is very important: good thermal insulation of the base will allow us to reduce heat loss, and almost all the energy generated by the warm floor will penetrate into the room.

The table provides instructions for constructing a base insulated with expanded clay:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Dismantling. We dismantle the old floor covering, exposing the concrete or soil base. It may also be necessary to remove old beams or log systems.
	Markup. By using laser level a line is struck along the perimeter of the walls, to which we will raise the base. When using expanded clay as thermal insulation, you need to lay as large a gap as possible - so the insulation will be more effective.
	Adding. We put a layer of sand about 10 cm thick on the base of the future floor. We compact the sand bed using a manual or electric rammer.
	Waterproofing. On top of the sand bed, we lay a layer of waterproofing material. The cheapest option is dense polyethylene, but you can also purchase a specialized membrane.
	Installation of beacons. We put supports on the waterproofing (in our case, halves of bricks), on which we place lighthouse profiles. We carefully level the lighthouses.
	Thermal insulation laying. We fill the space between the lighthouses with expanded clay. To increase the efficiency of the thermal insulation layer, we mix expanded clay granules with liquid cement-sand mortar, getting an improvised expanded clay concrete.
	Screed. Pour a screed over the expanded clay, raising the floor level to the design mark. The screed is leveled according to the lighthouse rule.
	Final alignment. After the initial polymerization of the screed, we remove the beacons from the solution, and then seal the holes. We rub the seams with a trowel and dry the floor for at least 14 days.

Expanded clay is not the only material that can be used for thermal insulation of the base under the heated floor. If there is no need for reconstruction of the coating, then on top of the old concrete screed can be laid:

1. Polystyrene boards(Penoplex and analogues). Insulation sheets are stacked close to each other, and the gaps between them are filled polyurethane foam... To increase the rigidity, a reinforcing mesh is usually mounted on top of the polystyrene plates, and the entire structure is attached to the capital base with anchors.
2. Roll foil material. The base is made of foamed polyethylene, which is covered with thin aluminum foil on one or both sides. The material is laid in a metallized layer inside the room, and at the joints it is fastened with aluminum tape. This option is ideal for electric floors.

1. Water floor mats. Such parts are made of a polymer with low thermal conductivity and are equipped with protrusions on front surface... The presence of these protrusions allows the pipes of the heating system to be laid between them. So we not only insulate the floor, but also make installation easier for ourselves.

Type 1. Water floors

Elements of the water floor

The most common type of underfloor heating for a private house is considered to be water structures. Basically, such a floor is a hot water pipe system hidden in the floor screed. Underfloor heating pipes are connected either to common system heating, or to a separate heating device.

To create such a system, we will need:

Illustration	Structural element
	Heating pipes. When laying heating circuits, either metal-plastic models or products made of cross-linked polyethylene are used. Both varieties have good heat dissipation and low thermal deformation.
	Underfloor heating collector. This is a device that allows you to optimize piping: for each heating circuit, the collector must have a separate pair of outlets. The cheapest collectors are supplied only with shut-off ball valves. Devices that have a separate control valve for each circuit are more efficient, allowing you to adjust the temperature of each loop. The disadvantage of such collectors is the higher price.
	Circulation pump. Allows to maintain circulation hot water in system. It can be included in the design of the water heater, but if you supply the warm floor from a simple boiler, then the pump must be installed separately.
	Damper tape. Installed around the perimeter of the room to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heating the pipes laid in it. Most often it is made from foamed polymers.

In addition to the basic elements, we may also need pipe fastening systems. If the installation is carried out on mats, then additional fasteners are not needed. If you have to install it on a screed or a layer of insulation, then it is advisable to purchase brackets with locks and anchoring.

Pipe laying basics

For efficient heating of the floor covering, the pipes are laid at a certain pitch. This value is usually in the range from 35 to 15 cm: the stronger the heating we need, the tighter the pipes are laid.

Styling too sparsely can lead to a striped floor effect. When moving, uneven heating of its parts will be felt, which will cause some discomfort.

General pipe length s for heating the room is calculated by the formula:

D = S / M * k, where:

• D- the required pipe length, m;
• S- area of ​​the room, m2;
• M - laying step, m;
• k- safety factor, from 1.1 to 1.4.

The average pipe consumption is from 3.5 to 1.5 m per 1 square meter area.

There are also several pipe layouts. They differ in the mutual arrangement of direct and reverse circuits, and hence in the efficiency of heat redistribution:

1. For small rooms usually the simplest "snake" is chosen. The small size of the room does not allow the temperature in the pipes to drop significantly.
2. For medium sized rooms the best choice there will be "double snake" or "snail". In this case, the close placement of direct and reverse contours ensures uniform heating of the floor.
3. For the most large rooms rational decision there will be a device of several separate circuits.

Water floor installation technology

The installation of a water floor in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. The collector is connected to a hot water supply and is installed either in the wall manifold cabinet, or into a wall niche closed by a hatch.

The dimensions of the collectors usually do not exceed 120 mm, so it is quite possible to make such a niche in a sufficiently thick wall.

After that, the floor itself is laid:

Illustration	Laying stage
	Installation of a damper tape. Along the perimeter of the room or a separate area, on which the heating circuit will be laid, we glue the damper tape. In addition to compensating for deformations, it will provide additional protection against heat loss.
	Reinforcement laying. If this has not been done earlier, lay a reinforcing mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer on the base. We fix the mesh with anchors, connect individual rolls with knitting wire.
	Laying and fixing pipes. We unwind the heating pipe from the bay, making sure that it does not twist along the axis. We lay out the pipe on the base according to the diagram and fix it. For fixing, we use either brackets or simple plastic clamps (it is cheap and convenient to attach to the reinforcement).
	Connecting to the manifold. The pipe going to the collector is connected to one of the outlets (installation of a fitting is required), the other end of the pipe is connected to the second outlet of the pair. After that, fill the contour with water. We maintain the system under pressure for at least 48 hours to detect leaks.
	Filling the screed. On top of the laid pipes (water must not be drained!) We lay a cement-sand screed. We level the floor surface, after which we dry the solution for 28 days. Until the solution is completely dry, it is strongly not recommended to supply hot water to the system.

After the screed has hardened and the flooring has been laid, the underfloor heating can be used as normal. If you turn on the system earlier, then there is a high probability of cracking in the concrete as a result of the expansion of pipes under heating.

Type 2. Electric underfloor heating

Principle of operation and main types

If floor heating is needed in a separate room, then instead of water heating, you can make an electric floor heating. As a rule, such systems are used as additional heating and are connected to the thermostat. Thanks to this, the heating elements turn on automatically as soon as the temperature drops below a certain mark.

Underfloor heating works simply. It is based on heating elements - plates, rods or cables. When current passes through high-resistance elements, they heat up, transferring most of the heat to the floor covering.

There are three types of warm electric floors.

Illustration	A kind of warm floor
	Film. The most common type, the main pole of which is thin. Heating element - thin carbon plates connected by conductive tracks and insulated on both sides with a thin polymer film.
	Cable. The basis is a high-resistance cable, which heats up when current flows. The advantage of the cable floor is the possibility of laying the cable with different spacing - this way you can adjust the degree of heating.
	Rod. Heating elements are carbon rods that are connected by wires into a single system. Such floors are powerful and reliable, but their price is quite high.

Electric film laying technology

I consider the film floor to be the easiest type to install. Therefore, I will give it as an example of styling:

Illustration	Installation stage of electric underfloor heating
	Preparation of a heat-reflecting layer. It is highly desirable to lay a foil underlay under the foil floor. Thanks to her, we will not warm concrete slab or a screed: all the heat will be reflected from the foil into the room.
	Cut out the foil. It is advisable to lay the film in long fragments - this way you will have to mount fewer wires. It is necessary to cut the material according to special marks so as not to damage the heating elements.
	Layout of material. We put the heating sheets on the prepared base and level them. They can be glued with tape, but it is advisable to leave the edges free - for ease of connection.
	Connecting contacts. Focusing on the marking of the material, we open the film opposite the conductive track. We attach a crocodile clip to it.
	Insulation of contacts. All contacts and places of cuts are carefully insulated. Instead of the standard adhesive tape, it is advisable to use special butyl plates, which are usually included with the floor. Simply squeeze them tightly around the contact.
	Connecting the thermostat and checking. We connect the wires from the heating film to the thermostat, focusing on legend... We turn on the system for a few minutes, checking the quality of insulation and the degree of heating of the panels.
	Laying the floor covering. If everything is in order, we mount the thermostat on the wall and lay laminate or linoleum over the heating film.

Conclusion

You are convinced that laying a warm water floor and electric film heating is quite within the reach of even novice craftsmen. Based on the tips and videos in this article, you can select materials for such systems and mount them on your own. Answers to any questions that arise can be obtained in the comments.

With the arrival of cold weather, many are thinking about modernizing their heating system. And the installation of a water-heated floor is one of frequent decisions such users. After all, this design allows you to significantly save on heating, while the consumption is sharply reduced, and the elements themselves that provide heating and warm air, do not take up space in the room, because they are hidden under the floor. Let's figure out what kind of warm floors are and how to install them in a private house with our own hands.

The principle of operation of a warm floor in the house

Heating and warm air in a cottage or a private house is provided using warm floors - this is a completely new system that excludes such actions as the installation and operation of convectors with radiators, as well as a large connection of their units and elements. Instead, a heating circuit built into the floor of a pipe and a manifold or several such sets is used if the length and width of the room is more than the norm, which one manifold and circuit can handle.

All this is set, as a rule, on concrete pavement, but can be installed on a wooden one (though the consumption will be higher). Also, mats for warm water floors are installed, due to which consumption is significantly reduced. But the most important thing is that all this can be done in a cottage or in a private house with your own hands. The main thing is to know how this technology works and to follow the installation rules.

So, the scheme of a warm floor in a private house is pipes with a coolant that provide heating and warm air, as well as a collector, a pump and a thermostatic mixer that make up mixing units... All this equipment is installed using joints in the floor, and from above it is poured cement strainer for a warm water floor.

When these works are completed, you can turn on the system for heating and thus start the warm air in the cottage. As you can see, doing it yourself is no more difficult than installing a bath, if you know how it works. In addition, construction costs will then be lower.

Warm floor in a private house or cottage: advantages and disadvantages

Before you understand whether it is worth choosing such a scheme in order to provide warm air in a private house, and even more so to do heating with your own hands, you need to weigh all the disadvantages and advantages of this technology.

The advantages of this design are as follows:

1. Heating consumption in the house is reduced by at least 30%, and the air remains the same warm.
2. The even circulation makes the air in the cottage comfortable. After all, heating extends not only to furniture near the battery, but to the entire area in the cottage.
3. The technology that provides heating with a pipe embedded in the floor is safe, since there is no direct contact with the hot pipe, and the pressure in it is not so high that a rupture would lead to a serious failure of the entire structure, as is the case with radiators, the connection of which is less reliable.
4. Improvement in appearance - it will now be more comfortable inside the cottage, because there will be no large white pipe through the whole and no radiators taking up space. Instead, there will be a heating circuit under the floor of each room, covering the entire area, and in some places, a small cabinet that hides the manifold with details. It will be possible to put furniture there and increase the free space.
5. The warm floor can be installed under the laminate, and under the tiles, linoleum and other coatings.
6. The cost of installing equipment in a cottage is quite low, especially if you do the work yourself.

But there are also disadvantages of choosing such a principle of air heating as underfloor heating technology:

1. To install the equipment, you need to spend a lot of time, especially if you do everything yourself;
2. If the equipment breaks down, this leads to serious expenses for repairs, because you will have to dismantle the entire floor, take out the furniture, and at this time the heating will stop, and the air in the whole house will be cold;
3. Some large rooms will need an additional source of heating as the underfloor heating technology is not designed for high heating power. To keep the air warm, you will have to install covectors with radiators.

This is where the disadvantages of this equipment end.

Wiring diagrams for installing warm water floors

To install equipment for heating air in a home with your own hands (pipes, a manifold, a pump to regulate pressure), you need to know the diagrams of how to install a heating circuit under the floor, taking into account how the furniture is installed, how long the room is and other characteristics.

Diy pipe installation schemes are as follows:

• Snail;
• Snake;
• Net;
• A combination of different ways so that the contour is located on all surfaces.

Calculation of underfloor heating and the amount of required materials

Calculation of a warm water floor - important detail building a house with your own hands. But it is better to do this stage not on your own, but with the help of professionals. They will calculate how long the pipe should have, the type that the heating circuit should have, advise you to choose the best installation option (mesh, snake, etc.), calculate how much money will be spent on repairs. But you can calculate everything with your own hands according to well-known schemes.

So, first, they draw diagrams according to which the grid of pipes, circuits will be mounted, as well as a collector for each room.

This takes into account furniture, windows and other elements of the rooms. Then they calculate where the pressure regulating pump and other required equipment will stand, according to the diagram. After that, choose a coating for a warm water floor, calculate what its thickness should be, etc. As soon as preparatory work executed on paper, you can go directly to the installation.

Collector installation features

The collector and its auxiliary equipment are installed in a special collector cabinet. This is not furniture, but a special niche with dimensions of 500x500 (length and width) on average. Its thickness is small - the main thing is that all the equipment fits and it is convenient to adjust it.

Once the cabinet is installed, install the supply and return pipes for hot and cold water respectively. The collector for hot water is connected to the supply pipe, and the collector that joins the end sections of the pipes is connected to the return pipe.

Then a shut-off valve is installed where the pipes are connected to the manifold so that the system can be repaired. Remember to install a drain valve on the other side of the manifold. If it is difficult to install the collector yourself, you can buy a ready-made one, in which all the necessary equipment will be installed, and it will not have to be adjusted.

Surface preparation

Before installing mats for a warm water floor, which must have the proper thickness to retain heat, as well as the heating circuit itself, the length of which allows you to cover the entire surface of the room, they begin to prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove debris, close up places where reinforced mesh or other interfering parts protrude, remove furniture in the room. If the floor thickness is different, that is, it is curved, this must be adjusted before installing the warm circuit.

The principle of preparation is as follows: first, a waterproofing layer is laid, the length and thickness of which is known from the size of the room (made of dense polyethylene), a damper tape is attached at the edges with self-tapping screws, after which thermal insulation is laid - insulation for a warm water floor. The thicker it is, the better, because it reduces heat consumption. Reinforcement mesh is laid on top.

How to lay pipes

A heating circuit made of a pipe, the length of which should allow heating the entire room, is laid in a concrete screed using either a mounting mesh, or mats, or grooves of a rough wooden floor. The thickness of the screed must be sufficient. The ideal thickness is 3-5 cm above the surface of the slabs. If the screed is made under the tiles, and not laminate or linoleum, the thickness should be greater.

Heating circuit connection diagram

As a rule, any underfloor heating heating circuit is connected to the boiler. It creates the proper power and pressure. But its power should exceed the power of the heated floors themselves by 15-20%. In this case, between it and the collector, you need to install expansion tank and other security elements. They will not affect consumption. In addition, in a private house, this is a common element of any heating scheme.

Then the pipe is connected to a manifold installed in the cabinet away from the furniture. From the collector, the pipe goes to the heated floors themselves. It is laid over the entire area of ​​the room - this is the heating circuit. You do not need to lay it under areas with bulky furniture if it will always be there. The end of the pipe is connected to a return manifold. If the pressure in the pipes is weak, pumping and mixing units are installed. They will also help reduce consumption.

System health check

Before laying laminate or tiles over pipes, you need to check them. This is done like this:

1. Air is pumped into the system with a compressor - the pressure should be up to 4 bar. The system is checked for depressurization. This high pressure will reveal even the smallest crevice.
2. The system is filled with water - the pressure is from 0.6 MPa. At first, in the first half hour, the pressure should not decrease by more than 0.06 MPa. At the second stage, the pressure is brought to 1 MPa, and in 2 hours it should not decrease by more than 0.02 MPa.

If the test is passed, you can pour the screed and lay the floor, choosing laminate, tile or other covering as a covering, and then install furniture.

Laying the floor on concrete

Traditionally, a concrete floor acts as a base for underfloor heating. It is reliable, strong, resistant to temperature extremes, and even. Laying is done as follows:

1. Prepare the room for work (take out furniture, tear off the old floor). Level the base by cleaning it.
2. Install a waterproofing layer and a damper tape.
3. Install heat and vapor barrier.
4. Reinforcement mesh is laid.
5. Install the heated floor itself, check its performance.
6. The screed is poured on top (2-3 cm above the level of the pipes) and left to dry.
7. Laying flooring (laminate, tiles), arranging furniture.

Warm floor under wooden beams

If wood is the basis for the floor, this is not a problem - heating can also be installed. Insulation is installed between the logs and pipes - it will reduce heat consumption and remove contact between the pipe and the tree.

You can also install waterproof and vapor barrier. It will also be helpful in reducing heat consumption. Next, they make a classic warm floor, at the end of which a laminate is laid on top. But in order for the heat return to be maximum, logs are laid on the insulation, boards are nailed to them, between which gaps of 2 cm are made for pipes. Metal gutters are installed in them, in which there will be pipes.

Thanks to this, the topcoat (laminate or tile) will be completely warmed up. A screed is made on top and the floor is installed - either polymer coating(slab, porcelain stoneware), or laminate that can withstand temperature extremes. Parquet and board will not work.

This design is very successful. Indeed, when repairing, it is enough to rip off the laminate and fix the problem. But the concrete floor will have to be destroyed for a long time before getting to the source of the problem. Laminate is easy to remove and just as practical to install. But a wooden warm floor gives less heat output- this must be taken into account.

Warm floor - modern heating system, which is increasingly used in country houses and cottages. In many cases, it becomes the main heating, but sometimes it is installed only to increase comfort.

Meanwhile, warm floors can be different: water, electric, infrared. In this article, we will look at the features of such systems, the differences, as well as the advantages and disadvantages.

Why is it recommended to install underfloor heating in the house? What are its advantages?

Any type of underfloor heating system installed in the cottage guarantees the owners more high level comfort and a few important advantages.

However, perhaps the most interesting thing is that all heating elements are completely hidden from view, that is appearance the cottage is getting much better - no protruding pipes and the usual radiators. At the same time, living in such a house is usually warm, since a heating circuit (water, infrared or electric) is located under the floor.

It is also important that contact with heating elements is excluded, since they are placed under the floor covering. Which increases the level of security.

The circulation of the heated air becomes more even, and the total heating costs can be significantly lower (provided that a water circuit is used). The floor is always warm, you can walk barefoot - and this is especially important if there are children in the house.

What types of warm floors are there?

In practice, the following types of such systems are used:

1. water;
2. electric;
3. infrared;
4. combined (rarely used, we will not consider it).

Each of these types of heating has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In order to choose a specific system, it is necessary to analyze the features, pros and cons of each of them.

Water heat-insulated floor

This is the most popular, but at the same time the most difficult, variant of the device. underfloor heating in cottages. However, it should be understood that equipping it yourself is not an easy task, only if you have the appropriate experience. It is better to entrust the design and installation of this type of heating to specialists.

System features, positive and negative properties

In general, the water underfloor heating system is a closed loop made of pipes. The circuit is mounted under the floor covering on a concrete screed, special polystyrene boards or wooden floors and is connected to the general heating system.

The system kit includes the following items:

1. pipes (plastic, metal-plastic);
2. fasteners;
3. thermal insulation materials;
4. manifold and fittings for connection.

This kind of system has many positive qualities, and is becoming more and more popular in country houses and here's why:

• more economical use of electricity - electricity costs after installing a water-heated floor are reduced several times compared to using conventional electric heaters;
• the rooms are warmed up more evenly;
• high level of safety - the risk of burns is excluded;
• you can regulate the microclimate of the rooms (equip a separate heating circuit for each of them);
• the ability to use any floor coverings - the surface heating does not exceed 30 degrees, there are no harmful emissions;
• creating coziness and comfort for residents.

There are also drawbacks to this system, but they are either temporary, or you can put up with them:

• long and complicated installation process;
• leaks may appear, which often lead to damage to the floor covering - to eliminate leaks and repair the floor, a complete dismantling of the coverings is required;
• the possibility of reducing the pressure in the general heating system;
• to regulate the temperature, it is necessary to install mixers.

If it is necessary to use a warm floor with a water circuit as the main heating, it is connected to a heating boiler installed in the house. Conventional radiators are not used in this case. The boiler can be of any type - solid fuel, gas or electric. However, before using an electric boiler, it is better to take a closer look at the electric underfloor heating.

Important! To avoid emergency situations in winter, you must not turn off the water floor heating system.

Electric underfloor heating

Electrically heated floor heating is a very popular heating system for country house... Its main components are a heating cable and a thermostat that controls the entire system.

There are two options for installing the heating cable - either it is laid in a cement-sand screed or directly under the floor covering. Most often in this case, tiles are used as flooring, but other materials are also possible.

Important the advantage of electric underfloor heatinglies in the simplicity of its execution. Any experienced home craftsman can design and assemble it.

O system features

After laying the heating cable and finishing floor covering, the entire floor surface turns into a kind of heater, a source ofpleasant and soft warmth, comfortable for bare feet... It is worth noting that the air in the room does not dry out at the same time, as it happens when using electric heaters of many models.

The system of electric underfloor heating in cottages traditionally includes:

1. heating cable of the required length;
2. control automatics - a temperature sensor and a thermostat that turns off the heating when the set temperature is reached;
3. fasteners used during installation;
4. heat insulating materials.

The basis of the electric underfloor heating system is the heating cable. It consists of several sections equipped with special couplings for connection, two-layer insulation and a protective screen.

All connecting elements are made of non-corrosive materials. The service life of the cable is 15 years under warranty, but there are also more durable cables, including armored and shielded ones. They are highly reliable and durable.

Control system and the ability to automate work

The convenience of any systems powered by electricity lies in the possibility wide range regulation including automatic control... Electric floor heating has the same capabilities.

In simpler systems, thermostats are used in which the temperature is set manually, smoothly or discretely, that is, without the possibility of programming. It is quite logical and natural to use such systems in houses intended for permanent residence... At any time, the owners can intervene in the system and set the desired temperature.

Programmable thermostats maintain and regulate the temperature automatically, according to a given algorithm. Such systems are convenient if Vacation home or come to the dacha from time to time.

Infrared floor heating

The work of a warm floor of this type is based on infrared radiation, which heats not only the floor itself, but also the objects located above it.

The system has several very important advantages:

• the use of radiation, which by its nature resembles the sun and is perceived by a person more naturally;
• it is not the air that warms up, but the objects in the room, which then themselves begin to give off heat;
• versatility and ease of installation - a thin radiating film can be mounted on walls, ceilings, under floor coverings without cement screed and special labor;
• reliability and safety;
• profitability;
• versatility;
• fast warming up of the room;
• ease of use;
• the ability to automate control;
• long service life.

Important! As practice shows, infrared floor heating is economical and completely safe. The thin film does not require space under the flooring and is completely invisible even under the thin and soft linoleum.

The infrared heating system also has disadvantages:

• heating of furniture, leading to overheating of the film. It can be avoided by not installing the film in places where furniture will be located or using furnishings on legs;
• significant energy costs for heating large rooms;
• dependence on power supply - relevant if the warm floor is the main or only source of heat.

Summary

The choice of the type of underfloor heating depends on the specific features of a country house, its area and the amount of space. Other factors play an important role when choosing a system:

1. features of the local climate;
2. comfort requirements;
3. the presence of centralized heating from the village network;
4. functionality;
5. individual preferences.

Electric underfloor heating is easy to use, but its installation in a cottage is beneficial only in villages with cheap electricity and uninterrupted power supply.

The most common option for houses with centralized heating is a water heat-insulated floor. But it is also installed in cottages with autonomous heating. Infrared heating has many important advantages and is the most modern version, although not the most economical.

One of the options for heating a private house is to arrange underfloor heating. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living quarters from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The construction of a warm floor cannot be called complicated, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out by pipes located under the floor covering, through which a heated coolant circulates, or by means of electric heating elements.

As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the house.

Among the positive qualities of a warm floor, the following stand out most clearly:

1. High level of comfort... The floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot, without fear of any discomfort.
2. Profitability... Saving in the use of underfloor heating is achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from the bottom up and heats only that volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. there are no unnecessary expenses.
3. Customizable temperature regime ... It is highly recommended to equip the warm floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within the user-specified limits.
4. Ease of installation... Arranging underfloor heating is a fairly simple task, especially when it comes to the electrical version of the system. It is more difficult to lay a water circuit, but even if you wish, you can easily install it yourself.

There are also disadvantages:

1. High cost... A lot of materials will be required to install a warm floor, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce the cost level - to do all the work on the heating arrangement yourself.
2. Reducing the volume of the room... The thickness of the warm floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then there will be no special problems because of this (unless the thresholds have to be redone).
3. Demanding flooring... It is possible to cover a warm floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed to be used in combination with warm floors. An inappropriate coating will prevent the system from operating efficiently, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their failure as a result of overheating.

The advantages of underfloor heating are significant, but the disadvantages are not critical, therefore, such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.

Substrate preparation for all types and variants of underfloor heating

One of essential elements is the basis for underfloor heating in a private house, which must be prepared even before the heating system itself is equipped. A number of requirements are imposed on the base - it must be strong enough, even and not transmitting heat. Every requirement is important, but special attention it is thermal insulation that requires - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various insulation is used for pipes, which must be selected for specific conditions.

The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following stages:

1. Dismantling... The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports... All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
2. Markup... With help building level along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be aligned. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient for effective conservation heat.
3. Bedding... The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. Sand pillow after backfilling, it must be compacted.
4. Waterproofing... A waterproofing material is laid on the compacted sand layer (polyethylene is the cheapest, but a waterproofing membrane is a more reliable option).
5. Placement of beacons... Now you need to install the supports along which the beacon profiles will be located. Beacons need to be aligned very accurately.
6. Installation of thermal insulation... All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
7. Filling the screed... Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can start pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
8. Alignment... When the screed grasps a little, the beacons need to be removed and the holes obtained should be repaired. The seams are rubbed, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely solidified.

In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• Polystyrene plates, which are usually reinforced with a reinforcing mesh to increase strength and are attached to the base with anchors;
• Roll foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
• Polymer mats designed specifically for laying a water-heated floor, for which there are special protrusions in the material, between which pipes are laid.

DIY water floor heating device

Exists different variants underfloor heating in a private house, but the most popular type are aquatic. Structurally, such heating is a system of pipelines laid under the floor covering, through which a hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system, or directly to a heat source.

Water heat-insulated floor includes the following elements:

1. Pipes... For arranging a warm floor, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes... Both materials have good thermal conductivity and low coefficient of thermal expansion.
2. Collector... This element is necessary to form a proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate leads. In inexpensive manifolds, there are only shut-off ball valves, while good devices are supplied with a valve allowing to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
3. Circulation pump... The pump ensures normal circulation of the coolant in warm floors... If in heating equipment there is a built-in circulation pump, there is no need for a separate device.
4. Damper tape... Such a tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from expanded polymers.
5. Fasteners... If laying is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of fasteners for pipes. In all other cases, you will need special brackets equipped with locks and anchoring.

Laying pipes in a private house

In order for the underfloor heating to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. It is not worth saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor sections, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.

The total length of pipes for one room is calculated using the following formula:

• D = S / M * k, where
• D - total pipe length,
• S is the area of ​​the room,
• M - laying step,
• k - safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.

Usually for 1 sq.m. the area of ​​the room requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.

An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:

1. "Snake"... A good option for small spaces. Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes practically does not decrease throughout the entire circuit.
2. "Snail" and "double snake"... These layouts are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Due to the close arrangement of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
3. Multiple circuit diagram... For a complete and efficient heating it is most advisable to equip large rooms with several separate circuits, which will provide good heat transfer and will be sufficiently reliable.

Installation of water underfloor heating

A water heat-insulated floor in a private house is laid according to the following technology:

1. Collector installation... The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
2. Installing a damper tape... The tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where the heating circuit will be located. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
3. Reinforcement... Reinforcement mesh must be laid on the thermal insulation layer, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
4. Installation of pipes... The pipes of the water circuit are unwound, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the chosen scheme and fixed with brackets or clamps.
5. Manifold connection... All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with coolant. The water circuit must be left in working order for two days to check for leaks.
6. Filling the screed... A conventional cement screed is poured over the water-filled system, which must be left until it hardens completely (this usually takes about a month). When the solution is completely dry, it will be possible to start heating in operating mode. Premature start-up of the system is likely to damage the concrete layer.

The device and types of electric underfloor heating

If it is necessary to lay underfloor heating in a separate room, then the electric heating system will be more relevant. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as an auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.

There are the following types of electric underfloor heating:

1. Film... The most popular type of heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon fiber plates, fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
2. Cable... This type of heater is based on a cable with a high resistance, due to which, when current passes, the product generates thermal energy... The pitch of cable heaters can be varied, thereby affecting the intensity of heating the room.
3. Rod... The main structural element is the carbon rods, which are connected by wires to form a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type electric heaters... See also: "How to make an electric floor heating with your own hands - types of floor heating, installation rules."

Installation of film underfloor heating

Film underfloor heating is the most common system, which is largely due to the simplicity of its installation.

An electric underfloor heating in a private house is equipped from scratch using the following technology:

1. Laying reflective material... It is highly recommended to install heat-reflecting foil material under the film warm floor, which will prevent the passage of heat into the underfloor space.
2. Cut film... It is advisable to cut the film as little as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. Cutting of the film can only be carried out along the cut lines drawn on it - this allows you to avoid damage to the internal elements of the material.
3. Laying the film... The prepared heating elements are laid out on the base and aligned. You can fasten the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to fasten the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
4. Connecting stripes... In the areas where the conductive track is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
5. Isolation of contacts... Each contact and the area where the strips have been cut must be carefully insulated. Butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the underfloor heating, are a good option for insulation. Contacts are simply crimped with such plates.
6. Connecting the thermostat... The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, guided by the instructions on its case or in the instructions. It is imperative to turn on the system and make sure that all lanes are working.
7. Installation of flooring... If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.

Conclusion

It is very easy to equip a warm floor - all types of warm floors in a private house are assembled without any problems with their own hands. The ready-made system will provide full heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.

Warm floors have become far from a novelty. This technology is used for underfloor heating in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their principle of operation is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room well enough. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Their installation is not as difficult as it seems, but it is quite troublesome. How to make a warm floor correctly? This process will largely depend on what type of system was chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of underfloor heating, which differ in the type of heat carrier, and also have different technology arrangement. However, in general, they are united by one main advantage - a heating element installed directly into the floor cake, due to which it heats up... At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but the air near the floor will be warmer, but above this border, at the level of a person's head, the air remains slightly cool, which makes it possible to create an optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace the system. central heating... But this is not always possible, and it is still not worth giving up on the main radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the coolant is ordinary heated water, which flows inside the pipes, laid according to a certain pattern and poured with a concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. Quite a reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private houses or in new buildings, where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings without the permission of the management company, it will not be possible to connect the water floor, since the installation will imply its connection to central system heating that is not designed for additional loads - it can become very cold in other apartments.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding in the rooms located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipelines to corrode. Installation, of course, is laborious, but this is one of the most economical options floor. Such heating can be installed under any topcoat. However, if you want to use the capabilities of a water-heated floor as efficiently as possible, study the features different coatings... Find the perfect option will help.

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - even in old, even in new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot make a water-heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and is a specially laid electrical cable inside the screed. It converts electricity into heat.

For the arrangement of heating can be used self-regulating and resistive cables... In the latter case, a two-core is usually used (single-core ones often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, therefore they do not prefer to use them). Self-regulating wires do not have the same drawbacks that resistive wires have. Usually, a cable floor is used if the topcoat is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, since it does not require pouring a new screed, is easy to install, but the quality is not inferior to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy consumption, easy to repair and completely safe for humans. Such a system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a little static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared floor heating, depending on the topcoat, in separate articles on the portal: under the laminate, but under the tiles.

Table. Comparison of the characteristics of different systems.

Characteristic	Water floor	Electric floor
EMP presence	No	Possibly depending on the type of cable
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildings	Only in new buildings with a separate connection	Yes
Quick control of settings	No	Yes
Depending on the heating season	Yes - in apartments and no - in private houses	No
Installation time	Long-lasting due to the need to fill the screed	Short
The ability to lay any topcoat	Yes	Certain types of flooring must not be laid on top of an electric floor.
Ease of repair	Difficult repair	In the case of infrared floors - quick repair

Prices for an electric heat-insulated floor "Teplolux"

electric warm floor thermolux

If you have not yet decided on the type of warm floor, read it. There we looked at the advantages and disadvantages in detail. different materials and made a list of recommendations.

Do-it-yourself warm water floor

Let's consider in more detail the process of work when arranging water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - this is the preparation of the rough base, the installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the topcoat. In this case, it will be considered a budget option creating a heating system.

Underfloor heating is a serious cost item for renovation, so it is important to calculate exactly how much and what materials will be needed. To ease your labor costs, we have prepared a description of how to calculate the warm floor - water or electric. Online calculators are included. And in the article "" you will find full list everything that may be needed during installation.

Preparation of the base

Consider how to make a rough floor for arranging a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. The first step is to completely dismantle the old wood floor. Planks and logs are removed. Remains of bricks and oversized construction waste can be left on the base.

Step 2. A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main reference point of the required level is the front door. The markings should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3. Marking is applied to the walls. The first mark marks the border of the screed with the laid heating pipes (the screed must not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4. Along the line of the laser level, marks are applied to the walls along the entire perimeter at the level of the finished floor.

Step 5. On the walls, markings are applied to two other levels - expanded clay bedding and screeds. The reference point in this case is the mark of the finished floor.

Step 6. The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the bottom mark.

Step 8.

Step 9. The holes in the walls, left over from the logs, are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10. Waterproofing is laid on the sand layer. In this case, it is dense polyethylene film, which is stacked with the plant on the walls. For convenience, the film is fixed with tape.

Step 11. Installation of beacons begins. For this, cubes from a foam block of high density are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. The cubes are installed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12. Metal profiles-beacons with a height of 1 cm are installed on the cubes.

Step 13. At the joints of the lighthouses, a cube must be installed. For correct docking, the beacons are trimmed. At correct docking beacons overlap each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14. Lighthouses are set by level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. You can use plywood pads to level them.

Step 15. When the beacons are leveled, they are fixed on the cubes with self-tapping screws.

Step 16. The sub-floor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of the base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve the desired result. The operation is carried out along the entire length of the beacons.

Step 17. Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18. Expanded clay is mixed with a small amount of cement mixture. This will create a sturdier floor. A bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used for a bag of expanded clay.

Step 19. Prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is carried out starting from the far corner of the room. There should be about 1.5 cm of free space to the upper level of the lighthouses.

Step 20. The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The mortar is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned with the beacon rule. Ideal evenness may not be achieved. To make the beacons easy to remove from the screed, their surface is not smeared.

Step 22. Two days later, when the screed dries up, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws fixing them are unscrewed. Wooden linings are removed along with the lighthouses.

Step 23. After that, the resulting cracks are cleaned of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Piping and connection

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the current heating system will be saved on the basis gas boiler... The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is directed to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second outlet of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and underfloor heating. A circulation pump will be installed at the entrance to the return circuit.

Step 2. The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. To seal the connection, sanitary flax and sealant are used.

Step 3. This is how the finished battery outputs will look like. One of them will be used to connect the warm floor.

Step 4. Before further installation of pipes, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room (we have already discussed it). She sits on the walls with glue.

Step 5. Multifoil is laid on the rough screed - a special insulation. Separate strips of material are fixed to each other with adhesive tape.

Step 6. A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is laid on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The mesh is connected to each other using a wire.

Step 7. The pipe leading to the return is installed and connected.

Step 8. To the other outlet from the battery, a water floor pipe with a section of 20 mm is mounted. A piece of protective corrugation can be put on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9. The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to reinforcement mesh using plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks on the pipe. To shape the knees, you can use a hair dryer to heat the pipe. The distance in the loop between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10. The underfloor heating pipe is laid with a snake.

Step 11. The ends of the return pipe and underfloor heating are directed to metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

Step 12. Areas that rise above floor level metal mesh fixed on the base of the floor with dowels and metal plates.

Step 13. Further work will be carried out in the basement. Installation in progress circulation pump... It connects to the return pipe. Two cranes are also installed in the system. One of them will cut off natural circulation. The bottom valve completely closes the inlet to the return pipe.

Step 14. The regulating unit is being assembled and all pipes are connected. In the mode natural circulation water flows through the underfloor heating pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the upper tap, then the water from the warm floor will move along the additional pipe towards the pump - this is a mode of rapid heating of the floor. If the bottom tap is closed when the pump is off, then the warm floor will be completely turned off.

Filling the screed

The final stage of the installation of the water floor is the pouring of the screed and the laying of the floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are placed on concrete pieces.

Step 2. Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base with cement mortar.

Step 3. The lighthouses are fixed to the concrete with self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be exactly level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to more correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4. A concrete solution is prepared in exact proportions.

Step 5. The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6. Concrete mortar aligns with beacons using a rule.

Step 7. The screed is dried within 28 days. The floor is covered with a topcoat.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of a warm IR floor

The complexity and the whole process of manufacturing a warm floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. A water floor is perhaps the best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. For those who do not want to bother with the screed, we recommend using infrared floors.