Services for the installation of waterproofing floors made of oriented strand boards are not the cheapest, but home owners will forever be able to forget about past problems with the destructive effect of moisture.

On the Yuda website, you can find specialists who offer not very expensive floor waterproofing services. All orders for any work will be performed by specialists with high quality and inexpensive. As a rule, the cost of all ordered services includes prices for materials, as well as prices for specific types of work. But this is the case if the order is made for the installation of "turnkey" waterproofing.

What is the main thing in any repair or construction

OSB boards are relatively new Construction Materials which are becoming more and more popular these days. When compared with other products, the following positive qualities can be distinguished:

• Lightness and high strength
• Good moisture resistance
• Simple application
• Low price

One of the most common uses for oriented strand boards is conventional flooring.

How to accurately and correctly choose OSB slabs for flooring

Each market today presents a wide range of products that differ not only in characteristics, but also in the presence of various impurities that are unsafe for the health of any person.

It is for this reason, when choosing materials for the repair of a private house, it is necessary to follow the following recommendations:

• For the device of coatings, it is better to use special materials in order to ensure solid construction due to density and moisture resistance
• Depending on the functionality of the building, the flooring is done on a screed or on wooden joists
• The required amount of this product can be calculated based on its location. This will ensure minimal waste

In buildings where it is necessary to protect the coating from moisture and water, before installing this screed, it is imperative that the floor is waterproofed from OSB.

It must be remembered that the waterproofing of oriented strand boards should only be continuous, otherwise its meaning is completely lost.

Waterproofing standard floors

The main purpose of each screed is to level the surface on which the coating will be laid. The strength of the screed directly depends on the thickness and grade of the mortar.

As a rule, OSB boards are a material that has functional application, both in a wooden building for waterproofing, and in works when decorating the interior of a building inside.

Moreover, they are an excellent choice for the construction of absolutely any structure with long term service. And manufacturing costs when using of this material can be reduced by almost half, and the construction itself - reduced to several months.

Modern construction technologies, like any other, allow you to equip a bathroom as complete as in a block or brick house... For such buildings, there are no special restrictions on the use of finishing materials and engineering systems... In such a house, the bathroom can be located on the first floor, and on the second, and even on the third. The use of new manufacturing technologies, improved for, allows you to do this. However, the first floor, near load-bearing wall Is an ideal place for decorating a bathroom.

From above, it is covered with waterproofing, which also covers the lower part of the walls. Outwardly, it looks like a trough. From above, this sandwich is again poured with concrete, on which the tiles from will be attached.

The construction of such a floor has a significant weight - up to 200 kg per sq. meter. This should be borne in mind when designing, calculating the number and performance of floor beams.

With your own hands: an example of waterproofing a bathroom

This is a simpler and, accordingly, somewhat lower quality method of waterproofing for wooden house... It consists in the fact that a sheet of plastic linoleum is laid on, right on the boards. A piece is cut out, taking into account the overlap on the walls, 5 cm in size, and mounted with an upward bend. In the places where it touches the walls, it is attached with glue, then this place is poured.

Even at the design stage, it is necessary to think over the future device of mandatory ventilation ducts... The construction of a special drain would be ideal. The floors for this are made with a slight slope; for them, a drain is provided for.

Another way to make a bathroom in

Walls. Sheathing

As noted above, competent waterproofing is essential characteristic bathroom frame structure. More precisely, reliable insulation of all elements made of wood. On bearing structures for this, a vapor-waterproofing membrane is laid (using a construction stapler). Then metal profiles are placed, intended to become the basis for the subsequent upholstery of the walls.

They are upholstered with sheets of special, moisture resistant (GKLV). To enhance their strength and reliability of hydro-vapor barrier, this is done in two layers. The first layer is attached to the profile by means of self-tapping screws, the second with a special adhesive composition... So the walls acquire the strength they need, and there is no need to seal the caps of the self-tapping screws with sealant. When the installation with KGLV sheets is completely completed, plastic is poured into the joints between them. Now you can start finishing.

Tile in frame house

Its role in this case can be played by PVC panels, ceramic bathroom tiles, special types coloring. Tiles or panels are considered the most preferable, as they provide the entire structure with greater hydro-vapor protection.

Ceramic tiles and panels in frame structure, as in any other house, they are attached with special glue.

But for grouting the resulting seams, a special, plastic agent is used. This is due to the properties of the GKLV.

Bathroom: ceiling device

The technology and procedure for installing the ceiling in the bathroom in practice resembles the arrangement of walls. First, a vapor barrier is securely attached to the beams, followed by metallic profile or reiki. With self-tapping nails, a special moisture-resistant drywall is mounted to the profile. Further, all existing joints are reliably insulated with a sealant.

Plasterboard ceiling and additional ventilation

A second layer of drywall sheets is not required on the ceiling, therefore, the caps of the self-tapping screws, in order to avoid corrosion, must also be processed. Next, it is the turn of the PVC panels stickers. It is a rational and practical finishing material, with good attitude prices for quality. More expensive way ceiling covering – stretch ceiling... It meets all the existing requirements for hydro-vapor barrier, but needs a more careful attitude during operation. It is also better to play it safe and install additional ventilation in the bathroom ceiling.

Floor in a frame house: bathroom installation

These types of materials have excellent moisture resistance, they are quite durable, are made of harmless materials, which allows them to be used as a base for the floor. Then comes a layer of film waterproofing, which is poured with a cement screed.

What should you pay attention to when carrying out these works?

• Which one is better to use for a bathroom in

Oriented strand board (OSB), when used inside a dry room, does not need any additional protection from moisture. In the worst conditions, the outer cladding of a house from this slab turns out to be. Over time, it darkens not only from rains, but also from solar ultraviolet radiation. Of course, it is possible to close the slabs with siding or a blockhouse, but this is associated with high costs. How to process an OSB (OSB) board from moisture is not an easy question. We will try to answer it.

Do you need additional processing?

The moisture resistance of oriented strand boards is characterized by the amount of swelling in thickness during the day. According to this parameter, according to the American PS 2 standard, the European EN-300 and the Russian GOST 10632-89, the plates are divided into 4 types (see table).

Recall that for outer cladding buildings, only OSB-3 and OSB-4 slabs are allowed.

If the constructed structure still somehow gets off, then during the construction of the OSB slabs lie on the construction site in packs. Even after one rain a few top sheets swell almost one and a half times. They will remain so even after drying. The rest of the sheets swell at the ends. By the way, in order to avoid this, the ends of North American products are painted with a blood-red impregnation.

It is believed among some builders that OSB slabs do not need additional processing, since they are already impregnated with resins, waxed, varnished. Experience shows that after 2-3 years their appearance loses its original freshness, they darken, in some places individual chips bulge out, the joints protrude sloppily.

Therefore, additional hydrophobic treatment will not be superfluous, especially if it is a facade of a residential building without any cladding. Consider how to treat the OSB board from moisture.

1. Transparent impregnations

The cheapest treatment option is water-repellent, colorless impregnations. There are no special solutions for OSB. Any wood product can be used, except water-based products. Examples of such formulations:

• Elcon wood preservative, silicone-based. Designed for long-term protection wooden structures from weathering, decay, mold. Scope: for indoor and outdoor use. Forms a water-repellent film, non-toxic, allows the tree to "breathe".
• Innovative domestic hydrophobizing composition NEOGARD-Derevo-40 based on organosilicon oligomers. Designed to impart water-repellent properties to products made of wood and materials based on it: plywood, chipboard, fiberboard. Water absorption for chipboard is reduced by 15 - 25 times. Obviously, it works for OSB too. Does not change the natural color of the material, the protective properties remain for at least 5 years.

Most suitable for protecting wood (and OSB) from moisture, the so-called yacht varnish on a urethane-alkyd or alkyd-urethane base. Some of the popular brands:

• Tikkurila UNIKA SUPER (Finland). This brand is the leader in resistance to impacts external environment, immunity to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.
• Marshall protex (Turkey). Creates a plastic surface film.
• Marshall Protex Yat Vernik. Possesses increased wear and moisture resistance.
• PARADE (Russia). Keeps fresh for a long time.
• Belinka Yacht (Russia). Has dirt and water repellent properties, emphasizes the texture of wood materials.
• Antiseptic varnish for wood "Drevolak" on an acrylic basis with the addition of wax (Russia). Along with antiseptic and antibacterial action, it successfully protects wood from moisture.

Since OSB is a product of wood processing, then paints and varnishes(LMB) the same can be used for them:

• Oil paints. Due to the presence of polymer resins in the OSB, varnish-based paints do not always fit well on the surface to be painted. For better adhesion to the substrate, it is recommended to make two priming with an intermediate putty before painting. Despite this, oil-based paints and varnishes under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, temperature extremes and atmospheric precipitation are prone to fading, cracking, and even peeling. We can recommend a paint based on natural and modified oil PINOTEX WOOD OIL SPRAY, which has good resistance to external factors.
• Alkyd paints are better suited to chipboards, since they contain alkyd resin as a product of the chemical interaction of natural oils with acids. Their adhesion is higher in comparison with oil paints, they dry faster and more successfully resist atmospheric influences.
• Acrylic compositions, being inexpensive and durable in operation, are distinguished by an optimal ratio of qualities and are most in demand for painting wood. In addition, they are available in a large assortment of colors.

Caution: Pre-treat a small area in an inconspicuous place to make sure that the water-based acrylic slurry does not swell the material.

In conclusion, we can say that the question: how to treat OSB (OSB) board from moisture, is difficult to answer unequivocally. Firstly: it depends on whether you want to emphasize the texture of the board with a transparent solution or, conversely, apply a covering (opaque) coating. Secondly: - on the financial capabilities and aesthetic ideas of the developer.

Frosts began and surprises began for those who live in a frame house. Some, and I should say many, had unpleasant surprises. Drops started from the ceiling and from the walls. People in shock and panic rushed to the Internet. There they find my articles on condensation. As a result, I get painfully identical questions. I wanted to give one universal answer to the owners of dripping frames. Perhaps it will help many people not to ask me the same questions, from which I already start to hiccup!

What happened to your framework? Why is water dripping?

This is in most cases condensation. It is all to blame for the fact that warm air from the room passes into the frame and moves through the insulation. The air cools down as it moves. Condensation is released from it. At first, this is simple fogging. But new portions of warm air from the room come up constantly and the fogging turns into drops. The droplets combine to form large droplets. Drops under their weight fall down, form streams and these streams flow down. Since these streams are in a heat insulator, the water needs to look for a hole. And the water finds it. She always finds her! As a result, drops are formed. These drops never end until the frost ends. The warmer it is in the house, the more condensation forms and the stronger the drops.

But these are not all the negative effects of condensation. Read on! The horror continues!

Condensation does not drip down. It freezes right in the heat insulator. Why? Because he's moved too close to the cold. It is clear that at some stage the temperature in the heat insulator goes through zero to the negative zone. Exactly at the same time, the steam turns into ice. What's next? And then the ice worsens the effect of the heat insulator. A frozen heat insulator stops insulating! In this case, the cold boundary gradually moves into the room. That is, there is a gradual freezing of the ENTIRE layer of the heat insulator. The house gets colder, we start to spend more fuel to heat it. And the drops? And the drops become even stronger, since the warm air from the room can no longer penetrate deeply and melts right under the interior decoration. So what do you do?

An example of our frame-panel wall Pay attention!

By the word "vapor barrier" I mean only and exclusively that insulating layer which is between INTERIOR FINISH and a layer of heat insulator (cotton wool). I do not call insulating layers in any other place a vapor barrier! But if the vapor barrier is made of poor quality, not with the material that is needed and does not perform vapor barrier functions, then I still call this disgrace a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier serves only one single purpose: not to let warm air into the heat insulator. There are no more goals. If somewhere I say otherwise, then please send me a link. I will rephrase the text.

• Living area (our room with warm air)
• Lining (imitation of timber, blockhouse, etc.)
• Vapor barrier
• Cotton wool inside the frame
• Some kind of incomprehensible isolation
• Some kind of external decoration
• A street with frost and wind

Note that in this interesting scheme we get a vapor-tight outer layer. And not because of the insulating layer under the OSB! Namely because of the OSB itself, which is absolutely vapor-tight! Why do we also need steam and wind insulation under it? I don’t know! Secret! Maybe the workers were not in the know. Maybe they wanted to breed the owner. Maybe they bought a lot of vapor barrier material and there was nowhere to go .... You never know what the reasons were!

But the steam-tight outer layer does not allow steam to escape from the frame. All the steam that fell into such a frame will remain in it. Is it bad? Yes, bad. What to do? The vapor barrier in this frame should be just cosmic thoroughness. Not a single gram of air from the room should get inside the frame. Is it difficult to implement? Yes. hard. I will not mislead you, dear readers.

Would I make myself such a wall? No! Never! And precisely because of the super sealed outer layer.

But it is what it is. This is our wall. What to do with it?

What would be nice to do, but hardly possible

It would be great to tear off the outer upholstery, rip off the OSB, peel off the insulation that was under the OSB, and close everything up with clapboard (imitation of a bar, blockhouse, siding) without any insulation. Then the steam that would penetrate the wall would freely escape from the wall outside, into the frost, and we would not have any drop. In addition, even if our cotton wool got wet, it would dry out at the first warming. To prevent the cotton wool from flying into the air, you can cover it with a windproof layer.

But the developers are not ready for this, because it is comparable to rebuilding the whole house. So let's forget this option, as a good one, but impossible in terms of technical and economic parameters.

Will drilling holes in the OSB help to get the steam out?

Yes. Will help. But you need to know exactly where to drill and how much. It is better to drill evenly over the entire wall and a little more on top. How much to drill? Well, so that the steam escapes and the wall does not lose its strength. I cannot say in absentia. And in reality, I probably would not say. I would do it by eye. There are a lot of holes, you know, it's boring to drill. Well, I would have drilled and thrown. Then I would see what happens.

Of course, such work (drilling holes in the wall) again depends on exterior decoration at home. The one that according to the OSB. If your house is plastered, then it is hard to make holes in it ... Not physically, but morally, so to speak.

What else can you do?

In fact, a lot of things. Here I have prepared an approximate list of options for the wall shown above.

Method 1 (normal)

• Peel off the interior trim
• After we decided that our vapor barrier is now ideal, pin all of our finishing back on the wall.

But keep in mind, water can form in the ceiling too! Then condensation can drain down the ceiling and get into the wall just like that. That is, method 1 is good for applying it throughout the house from the inside, but not for one current wall.

• Peel off the interior trim
• Peel off the vapor barrier
• Buy foam sheets 20 mm thick in the store
• Cut the penoplex carefully (it is cut very well with a bread knife) and insert it into the frame in a spacer, while pressing the cotton wool. Penoplex slots are either glued with tape or covered with sealant
• We nail in a new vapor barrier. Not as super carefully as in method 1, but we also try not to leave gaps and holes
• We restore the interior decoration

The essence of the method is that the penoplex is absolutely impervious to steam. We get additional thermal insulation and a rather serious vapor barrier. That is, in this method we are reinsured against steam + we get additional insulation.

• Peel off the interior trim
• Finally, determine what is actually under the finish - vapor barrier or wind barrier (these things are often confused)
• If there is a vapor barrier, then seal all joints with special tape. Especially on the ceiling and floor. If it is windproof, then buy a vapor barrier and attach it to the wall and glue it, of course. It is possible on top of the wind insulation that is already attached.
• After that we finish the wall with plasterboard. Ordinary. Thick (12 mm)
• We putty the seams and finish with whatever we want. You can even clapboard.

The essence of the method is that drywall absorbs a terrible amount of moisture! It is unlikely that anything will pass through it. In addition, we get an additional degree of comfort, because drywall reflects sound well, that is, we get a quieter home. Can you combine method 2 and method 3 and get two additional degrees of comfort and double safety from steam? Yes, you can, of course.

You can think of many more ways, one way or another combining and compiling the ones already given. In addition, do not forget that increasing the vapor permeability of the outer layer is also a good way.

And if I were building myself a frame-panel house, how would I do it?

Well, obviously, I would combine all the above methods. But again, I looked at what I was building, at the functions of this building, at my financial capabilities.

• I would certainly not use OSB. The material is good, but it imposes additional conditions on me. Again, as I talked with people, I found out that this material is prone to warping, the formation of cracks and holes (like from bullets), the formation of strange bumps and tumors.
• I would of course not use any insulation under outer upholstery... I would either an imitation of a bar, or I would attach the siding directly to the wall and would not cover the cotton with anything at all. Why would I choose such Decoration Materials? And I like them. IMPORTANT! By outside purely theoretically, you can use that gauze, which is called a windproof membrane. If you want - please. It won't get any worse. But personally, I'm not sure that personally she will make me happy.
• I would use correct vapor barrier and would arrange it carefully and honestly.
• I really like the option with penoplex. I would choose it. Penoplex is very good material... But dear. For a barn, I probably would not use it. And for the home - rather yes than no.
• Drywall? And this is generally my favorite material. I decorated the house with it and am very pleased. Let me remind you that I was even accused of selling this material. But no! Unfortunately, I don’t sell.

How to distinguish vapor barrier material from windproof?

Well ... on the label, first of all. But I will write a special article about this.

Some examples

I went to the Internet to dig up illustrations. And they are in the majority, in the overwhelming majority, either do not reflect the essence, or generally with errors. Here are just a few examples:

Swimming pool under the floor

Need an underfloor pool? Here it is! Warm air from the room penetrates under the floor, there condenses and moisture will never go anywhere! Notice how carefully the bottom is insulated.

Of course, it was necessary to put the cotton wool directly on the rough floor, but close it well on top. Well, it's hard to guess or what?

Why across? Pay attention to this detail!

I would like to note that it would be more logical to attach from top to bottom. Then, when upholstery, we press one layer of vapor barrier against another on the beam and they press well. And so we have an air inlet and we must carefully glue this joint! And it is also more difficult to glue it, because the joint is on the soft one.

Here you are! Not glued - there will be drops!

Here is the insulation of the ceiling

Just don't cover with anything from above! So they will definitely cover it!

I hope that you will not be disappointed in your new frame house
Dmitry Belkin

Article created on 25.11.2014

Article edited on 11/28/2014

Similar materials - we select by keywords

I was led to this article by the total illiteracy both on the part of the builders and on the part of buyers, as well as the phrase “steam-hydraulic insulation” that is increasingly flickering in commercial offers - from which then all the whistle begins, lost money, problem structures, etc. .NS.

So, you have probably heard about waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - that is, about films that are placed in insulated roofs and frame walls to protect them. But then, a complete "steam-water disfigurement" often begins.

I will try to write in a very simple and accessible way, I do not immerse myself in formulas and physics. The main thing is to understand the principles.

To begin with, the main mistake is to mix steam and moisture into one concept. Steam and moisture are completely different things!

Formally, steam and moisture are water, but in different states of aggregation, respectively, having a different set of properties.

Water, it is moisture, it is also "hydra" (hydro from ancient Greek ὕδωρ "water") - this is what we see with our eyes and can feel. Tap water, rain, river, dew, condensation. In other words, it is liquid. It is in this state that the term "water" is usually used.

Steam is the gaseous state of water, water dissolved in air .

When a common person talks about couples, for some reason he thinks that this is necessarily something visible and tangible. Steam from the nose of the kettle, in the sauna, in the bathroom, etc. But actually it is not.

Steam is present in the air anytime, anywhere. Even as you read this article, steam is in the air around you. It lies at the heart of the very humidity of the air, which you probably heard about and more than once complained that the humidity is too high or too low. Although no one saw this moisture with their eyes.

In a situation where there is no steam in the air, a person will not live long.

Taking advantage of different physical properties water in a liquid and gaseous state, science and industry have been able to create materials that allow steam to pass through, but at the same time do not allow water to pass through.

That is, this is a kind of sieve that is capable of letting in steam, but will not let water through in a liquid state.

At the same time, especially clever scientists, and then manufacturers, figured out how to make a material that will conduct water only in one direction. How exactly this is done is not important to us. There are few such membranes on the market.

So, a construction film that is impervious to water, but passes steam equally in both directions, is called waterproofing vapor permeable membrane. That is, it passes steam freely in both directions, and does not pass water (hydra) at all or only in one direction.

Vapor barrier is a material that does not allow anything, neither steam nor water to pass through. Moreover, at the moment, vapor barrier membranes- that is, materials that have one-sided vapor permeability have not yet been invented.

Remember it as "Our Father" - there is no universal "steam-hydro membrane". There is a vapor barrier and vapor-permeable waterproofing. It is fundamentally different materials- with different purposes... The use of these films in the wrong place and in the wrong place - can lead to extremely sad consequences for your home!

Formally, vapor barrier can be called vapor barrier, since it does not allow water or steam to pass through. But using this term is a way to make dangerous mistakes.

So once again, in frame construction, as well as in insulated roofs, two types of films are used

1. Paro insulating- which are neither vapor nor water permeable and are not membranes
2. Waterproofing steam permeable membranes (also called windproof, due to extremely low air permeability or super diffusion)

These materials have different properties and improper use is almost guaranteed to lead to problems with your home.

Why do we need films in a roof or frame wall?

To understand this, you need to add a little theory.

Let me remind you that the task of this article is to explain "on the fingers" what is happening, without going into physical processes, partial pressure, molecular physics, etc. So I apologize in advance to those who had five in physics 🙂 In addition, I will immediately make a reservation that in reality all the processes described below are much more complicated and have a lot of nuances. But the main thing for us is to understand the essence.

This is how nature has decreed that in the house the steam always goes from warm to cold. Russia, a country with a cold climate, our average heating period is 210-220 days out of 365 a year. If you add to it the days and nights, when it is colder outside than in the house, then even more.

Therefore, we can say that most of the time, the vector of steam movement is directed from the inside of the house, outward. It doesn't matter what we are talking about - walls, roof or lower floor. Let's call all these things in one word - enclosing structures

In homogeneous designs, the problem usually does not arise. Because the vapor permeability of a homogeneous wall is the same. The steam quietly passes through the wall and out into the atmosphere. But as soon as we have a multi-layer structure consisting of materials with different vapor permeability, everything becomes not so simple.

Moreover, if we talk about the walls, then we are not necessarily talking about frame wall... Any multilayer wall, even a brick or aerated concrete with external insulation, will already make you think.

You've probably heard that in a multi-layer structure, the vapor permeability of the layers should increase as the steam moves.

What will happen then? Steam enters the structure and moves in it from layer to layer. At the same time, the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer is higher and higher. That is, from each subsequent layer, steam will escape faster than previous.

Thus, we do not have an area where the steam saturation reaches the value when at a certain temperature it can condense into real moisture (dew point).

In this case, we will not have any problems. The difficulty is that it is not easy enough to achieve this in a real situation.

Roof and wall vapor barrier. Where is it installed and why is it needed?

Let's consider a different situation. Steam has entered the structure and moves outward through the layers. Passed through the first layer, the second ... and then it turned out that the third layer is no longer so vapor-permeable as the previous one.

As a result, steam trapped in the wall or roof does not have time to leave it, and a new "portion" is already propping up behind it. As a result, before the third layer, the vapor concentration (more precisely, saturation) begins to grow.

Remember what I said earlier? The steam moves from warm to cold. Therefore, in the region of the third layer, when the steam saturation reaches a critical value, then at a certain temperature at this point, the steam will begin to condense into real water. That is, we got a "dew point" inside the wall. For example, at the border of the second and third layers.

This is what is often observed by people whose house is sewn up from the outside with something that has poor vapor permeability, for example plywood or OSB or DSP, but there is no vapor barrier inside or it is made of poor quality. By inside rivers of condensate flow on the outer skin, and the cotton wool adjoining it is all wet.

Steam easily enters the wall or roof and "slips through" the insulation, which usually has excellent vapor permeability. But then he "rests" on outer material with poor penetration, and as a result, a dew point forms inside the wall, right in front of the obstacle in the path of steam.

There are two ways out of this situation.

1. It is long and painful to select the materials of the "pie" so that the dew point does not end up inside the wall under any circumstances. The task is possible, but difficult, given that in reality, the processes are not as simple as I am describing now.
2. Install a vapor barrier from the inside and make it as tight as possible.

It is along the second path that they go in the west, they make an airtight obstacle on the way of steam. After all, if you do not let steam into the wall at all, then it will never reach the saturation that will lead to condensation. And then you can not rack your brains over what materials to use in the "pie" itself, from the point of view of the vapor permeability of the layers.

In other words, the installation of a vapor barrier is a guarantee of the absence of condensation and dampness inside the wall. In this case, the vapor barrier is always placed on the inner, "warm" side of the wall or roof and is made as tight as possible.

Moreover, the most popular material for this "they have" is ordinary polyethylene 200 microns. Which is inexpensive and has the highest resistance to vapor permeation, after aluminum foil... Foil would be even better, but it's tough to work with.

I also draw Special attention on the word sealed. In the west, when installing a vapor barrier, all film joints are carefully glued. All openings from the wiring of communications - pipes, wires through the vapor barrier are also carefully sealed. The installation of an overlapping vapor barrier, popular in Russia, without gluing the joints, can give insufficient tightness and, as a result, you will get the same condensate.

Loose joints and other potential holes in the vapor barrier can cause wet wall or the roof, even if there is a vapor barrier in itself.

I would also like to note that the mode of operation at home is important here. Summer country houses, in which you visit more or less regularly only from May to September, and maybe several times in the off-season, and the rest of the time the house is standing without heating, they can forgive you for some flaws in vapor barrier.

But a house for permanent residence, with constant heating - does not forgive mistakes. The greater the difference between the external "minus" and the internal "plus" in the house - the more steam will enter the external structures. And the more likely it is to get condensation inside these structures. Moreover, the amount of condensate in the end can amount to tens of liters.

Why do you need a waterproofing or superdiffusion vapor permeable membrane?

I hope you understand why you need to make a vapor barrier with inner wall- in order to prevent steam from entering the structures at all and to prevent conditions for its condensation into moisture. But the question arises, where and why to put a vapor-permeable membrane and why it is impossible to put a vapor barrier instead of it.

Windproof, waterproofing membrane for walls

In American wall construction, the vapor permeable membrane is always placed outside, on top of the OSB. Its main task, oddly enough, is not to protect the insulation, but to protect the OSB itself. The point is what Americans do vinyl siding other facade materials directly on top of the slabs, without any ventilation gaps or battens.

Naturally, with this approach, there is a likelihood of external atmospheric moisture getting between the siding and the slab. How - this is already the second question, heavy slanting rain, flaws in construction in the area window openings, abutment of roofs, etc.

If water gets between the siding and the OSB, then it can dry out there for a long time and the plate may start to rot. And OSB in this regard is filthy material. If it starts to rot, then this process develops very quickly and goes deep into the slab, destroying it from the inside.

It is for this, in the first place, that a membrane with one-sided permeability for water is installed. The membrane will not allow water, in case of a possible leak, to pass to the wall. But if in some way, water gets under the film, due to one-sided penetration, it can come out.

Super Diffusion Roof Waterproofing Membrane

Don't be confused by the word superdiffusion. In fact, this is the same as in the previous case. The word superdiffusion only means that the film is very vapor permeable (vapor diffusion)

V pitched roof, for example, under the metal tile, there are usually no slabs, so a vapor-permeable membrane protects the insulation both from possible leaks from the outside and from being blown by the wind. By the way, this is why such membranes are also called windproof. That is, a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane and a windproof membrane are usually the same thing.

In the roof, the membrane is also placed from the outside, in front of the vent gap.

In addition, pay attention to the instructions for the membrane. Since some membranes are placed close to the insulation, and some, with a gap.

Why is it necessary to put a membrane outside, and not a vapor barrier

But why not put a vapor barrier? And make an absolutely vapor-tight wall on both sides? Theoretically, this is possible. But in practice, it is not so easy to achieve absolute tightness of the vapor barrier - anyway, somewhere there will be damage from fasteners, construction flaws.

That is, some scanty amount of steam will still fall into the walls. If there is a vapor-permeable membrane outside, then this minuscule has a chance to get out of the wall. But if there is a vapor barrier, it will remain for a long time and sooner or later, it will reach a saturated state and again the dew point will appear inside the wall.

So - a windproof or waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is always placed outside. That is, from the "cold" side of the wall or roof. If there are no plates or other structural materials outside, the membrane is placed on top of the insulation. V otherwise in the walls, it is placed on top of the enclosing materials, but under the facade finish.

By the way, it is worth mentioning one more detail, for which films are used, and the wall or roof is made as tight as possible. because the best insulation, this is air. But only if he is absolutely motionless. The task of all heaters, be it foam or mineral wool, is to ensure the immobility of the air inside itself. Therefore, the lower the density of the insulation, the higher, as a rule, its thermal resistance - the material contains more stationary air and less material.

The use of films on both sides of the wall reduces the likelihood of wind blowing through the insulation or convection air movements inside the insulation. Thus, forcing the insulation to work as efficiently as possible.

What is the danger of the term vapor barrier?

The danger lies precisely in the fact that under this term, as a rule, two materials are mixed, with different purposes and with different characteristics.

Eventually, confusion begins. The vapor barrier can be supplied on both sides. But the most common error, especially in roofs, and the worst in terms of consequences, when the result is the opposite - the vapor barrier is installed outside, and the vapor-permeable membrane from the inside. That is, we calmly let steam into the structure, in unlimited quantities, but do not let it go out. This is where the situation shown in the popular video comes in.

Moreover, this can happen both with an overlap, and with a wall or with a roof.

Conclusion: never mix the concepts of vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes and vapor barrier - this is a sure way to construction mistakes that have very serious consequences.

How to avoid mistakes with films in the wall or roof?

Fear has big eyes, in fact, everything is quite simple with films in the wall or roof. The main thing to remember is to observe the following rules:

1. In a cold climate (most of Russia), a vapor barrier is always installed only on the inner, "warm" side - be it a roof or a wall
2. The vapor barrier is always done as tightly as possible - the joints, the holes of the penetrations of communications, are glued with tape. This often requires special tape (usually with butyl rubber adhesive base), since a simple one can come off over time.
3. The most effective and cheapest vapor barrier - polyethylene film 200mk. It is desirable "primary" - transparent, it is easiest to glue the joints on it with ordinary double-sided tape. Buying "branded" vapor barriers is usually unjustified.
4. Vapor-permeable membranes (superdiffusion, windproof) are always installed from the outer, cold side of the structure.
5. Before installing the membrane, pay attention to the instructions for it, since some types of membranes are recommended to be installed with a gap from the material to which it is adjacent.
6. The instructions can be found on the manufacturer's website or on the roll of the film itself.
7. Usually, in order to avoid mistakes with "which side" to mount the film, manufacturers roll up the roll so that by "rolling" it outside by design, you have automatically installed right side... For other uses, before starting installation, think about which side to place the material.
8. Choosing a vapor-permeable membrane, you should give preference quality manufacturers"First and second echelon" - Tyvek, Tekton, Delta, Corotop, Juta, Eltete, etc. As a rule, these are European and American brands. Membranes from third-tier manufacturers - Izospan, Nanoizol, Megaizol and other “isolates”, “brains”, etc. as a rule, they are much inferior in quality, and most of them generally have an unknown Chinese origin with brand stamping trading company on film.
9. If in doubt about the use of the film, go to the manufacturer's website and read the instructions or recommendations for use. Don't trust the advice of "sales consultants". Refers mainly to the materials of the "first and second echelon". The instructions of third-tier manufacturers often include a large number of errors, since in fact they only sell films, not producing them and not doing any development, so the instructions are written "on the knee"

PS If you are interested in a little more information about the difference in vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes, I recommend reading this small document.

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To protect the insulation under OSB, it is important to use vapor barrier film, which will help extend the life of the insulation and preserve its integrity. With regard to wind insulation, it is necessary in some cases.

When you need wind protection under OSB

Wind protection under OSB is simply irreplaceable in cases where the house is insulated mineral wool, ecowool, and other types of insulation materials, subject to the destructive effects of moisture and steam.

The main reasons why you need to make wind protection under OSB:

1. To protect the insulation from moisture, condensation and steam.
2. For the absence of gaps in the joints OSB boards in the joints of the frame of the house.
3. To avoid the appearance of mold and mildew on the surface of the inner and outer walls at home.

For unheated premises, in which the installation of insulation is not planned, the layer of wind protection under OSB can be omitted.

What material is suitable for windscreen under OSB

As a modern and affordable wind protection under OSB, special wind protection films are ideal.

Advantages of films: Installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling with wooden floors in a private house Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation on the ceiling of the bath? How to properly install the vapor barrier on the ceiling from the attic side?