Are currently developing so fast construction technologies and new materials appear that you can meet a real Russian bath (not by name, but in fact) only in remote villages. We consider it necessary, before directly considering the issue of how to make ventilation in a Russian bath, to remind developers what a traditional Russian bath is, how they steam in it, what are the conditions for temperature and humidity. This knowledge will help to correctly solve the assigned tasks and not turn a traditional Russian bath into an ordinary "washing-steam room" or a mixture of baths of different nations.

Russian bath - steam room in white

Russian baths with a firebox in white

The first mentions of Russian baths appeared in the Novgorod chronicles at the beginning of the 11th century. In those days, the baths were heated "in black". There was no chimney, smoke came out of the steam room through open doors... After heating, the bath was ventilated for several minutes, then the doors to the steam room were closed, the room from the stove was heated again and the bath was ready to receive people.

Smoke sauna - photo

Such baths are unlikely to be found today, but there are quite a few more perfect traditional Russian baths.

We will talk about these baths in detail, only knowing all the secrets of a real Russian bath will give you the opportunity to make effective ventilation in it and preserve identity. What did a traditional Russian bath look like?

Russian bath - photo

Foundation

In our understanding, there was no foundation. Large stones lay at the corners of the building, they held the weight of the entire structure. Between large stones, small ones lay, they almost did not perceive any load, they were used only as a protective obstacle from the wind. In winter, one or two bath crowns were covered with snow, in this way the floor was insulated. By the way, the village huts and cellars in them were also insulated by filling several lower rims of the log house with snow.

Stones are the foundation

Log house

The bathhouse was made of thick logs; dry moss was used for warming between the houses. Until now, this material of mezhventsovy insulation is considered one of the best in all respects. Moss was harvested in spring on bryozoans, dried all summer and only then used during the construction of a log house.

Logs were prepared only in winter; dead wood was often used. If there was no natural dead wood nearby, it was prepared independently. The bark was removed around the selected tree, the tree died and stood in this state in the forest for at least a year. The sanded material was additionally dried before use.

For the floors, the logs were cut in half, and the water went into the cracks. A thick floor could stand for decades in any conditions, no one cared about special additional protection from decay processes.

The same sawn logs served as a ceiling. The bathhouse had dimensions within 2 × 3 meters and consisted of only two rooms - a steam room and a small dressing room. The ceiling was only in the steam room, the dressing room had no ceiling, the temperature in the dressing room was equal to the air temperature. The men went to wash first, they undressed / dressed in the cold dressing room. Women and children undressed / dressed directly in the steam room. The steam room had one small window and a little more window was installed in the dressing room.

The shelves necessarily had two tiers, the one who could withstand the high temperature steamed on the second tier, and children and the elderly on the first or on the floor. A broom was used as a "fan". A Russian bath is unthinkable without a broom and a lot of steam.

Roof

Gable under the shingles. Shingles, by the way, served thirty or forty years. For comparison, modern “ innovative materials»Rarely have more than fifteen years of use. Today, the torch is again becoming fashionable, only there is one significant difference - if earlier it was a roofing material for the poorest, now it is exactly the opposite.

Bake

Most important element Russian bath. The stove was large, taking up to a third of the entire steam room.

It was built of bricks, a large cast-iron vat for water was embedded on top, the capacity of the container was at least one hundred liters. In the vat, not only the water was heated to a boil, it served as a heat accumulator and could warm up the steam room for a long time. There was a barrel for cold water next to the stove, if the vat boiled, then cold water from the barrel was poured into it. As the bath heats up the water in the barrel with cold water gradually diluted with boiling water from a vat and heated.

The stove was placed in the chimney. It was often an ordinary iron barrel with a diameter of about 40 cm, access to the stones was provided by a separate door. There was a chimney with a chimney above the stove. When all the wood in the bath was burned out, the gate was closed and water was splashed on the stones with a ladle for steam.

The temperature in the bath was relatively low, about + 50 °, the effect of heat was achieved due to the humidity of the air, it reached 90%. We know from school that humid air conducts heat much better than dry air. If in a dry Finnish bath you can withstand temperatures up to + 110 ° more, then in a Russian bath under such conditions a person will literally cook.

How the Russian bath was ventilated

While taking water procedures, the doors from the steam room to the dressing room were sometimes slightly opened. But these actions were carried out not for ventilation as such, but for lowering temperature and humidity.

After washing, the steam room door was fully opened and moisture came out right through the roof - there was no ceiling in the dressing room. Of course, such ventilation was ineffective, especially in winter period time. Frost and ice appeared on the walls, and wooden structures almost never completely dried out. Only in summer period it was possible to really dry out wooden structures. As you can see, the operating conditions of wooden structures, even with all the desire, cannot be called favorable. But due to the large thickness and high quality of the lumber, the bathhouse served for several decades. Then they took it apart and put a new one. Or they raised and changed the lower crowns and floor covering.

Why did we talk in such detail about real traditional Russian baths? Only by knowing the principles of their functioning, you can make ventilation in such a way as not to lose the main thing - the advantages and distinctions of the national bath.

What ventilation of the Russian bath should provide

We hope that now you understand what criteria should be used to ventilate the Russian bath, so as not to turn it into a "warm washroom". To be faithful, we list its tasks once again, ventilation should:

• maintain the temperature in the steam room within + 50 ÷ 60 ° С;
• relative air humidity within 70 ÷ 90%;
• dry wooden structures as quickly as possible at the end of the bath procedures;
• if necessary, ventilation should quickly reduce the humidity in the room without creating unpleasant drafts and without opening the steam room doors;
• to be versatile and multifunctional, to work equally effectively in summer and winter. And at the same time, of course, to preserve all the features of the Russian bath.

A few words should be said about the "purification of air from exhaust" gases. As for carbon monoxide, no amount of ventilation will help if it constantly flows into the room. It is necessary to ensure that the firewood is completely burnt out, that no embers remain in the firebox, and only after that close the stove gate. Ventilation is able to remove carbon monoxide already present in the room, provided that it is no longer supplied.

Now about the "oxygen". You can find many articles on the Internet in which "bath experts" are concerned about ventilation of the steam room in order to supply oxygen. Let's not go too deep into this issue, let's just say one thing - per minute with maximum physical activity, a person inhales no more than 10 liters of air, one cubic meter is enough for 100 minutes (more than one and a half hours). Now calculate the volume of the steam room, it is at least 2 m (width) × 3 m (length) × 2 m (height) = 12 m3. This is a supply of air for one person for almost twenty hours, or for twenty people for an hour. We no longer mention that it is possible to breathe air with a lower oxygen content. Do any of us take a longer steam bath? No? Then let's not bother ourselves with "oxygen starvation in the steam room." Moreover, when the temperature drops, fresh air will enter the bath without our calculations.

So, the goals of ventilation in a Russian bath are already clear, let's consider the means of achieving it. There are only two of them - with the help of natural or forced ventilation.

The simplest from a technical point of view, but the most difficult to comb from an engineering point of view, ventilation. The fact is that there are quite a few unpredictable and independent factors that affect the technical characteristics of ventilation. We list just a few variables that affect natural ventilation.

• The difference in air temperature outside and in the bath.
• The difference between the indicators of the relative humidity of the air outside and in the bath.
• The specific location of the ventilation inlet and outlet.
• Features of the location of the outlet on front wall baths.
• Direction of the wind.
• Structural characteristics of air grilles.

For a Russian bath, it is enough to have a maximum change frequency within six volumes of air per hour. This will allow you to quickly lower temperature and humidity if necessary and create optimal modes for drying rooms. The fact is that in winter it is impossible to ventilate very quickly, the room will cool down and the rate of evaporation of moisture from wooden structures will greatly slow down, and then completely stop.

Practical heating technicians propose to calculate the cross-section of the inlet and outlet openings at the rate of 20 cm2 per cubic meter of the room. For example, if the steam room has dimensions 3 × 3 × 2 (length, width and height) = 18 m3, then the nominal diameter of the duct passage should be approximately 360 cm2. Of course, this is a very simplified approach, but in practice it works perfectly, for a more accurate calculation there is no need to involve large and expensive teams of "scientific institutes and design organizations."

One more note. It is desirable that the air inlet is on the windy side and the air outlet on the opposite side. Unfortunately, this is not always possible for various reasons. In this case, it is recommended to close the decorative grilles with conical caps, they minimize the risks of a significant decrease in draft due to back pressure from external air currents.

With the theory sorted out, let's move on to practice.

How to make natural ventilation in a Russian bath

Step 1. Determine the exact location of the inlet and outlet.

entrance fresh air should be done at a distance of about 10 ÷ 20 centimeters above floor level, preferably behind the stove. If the holes are behind the stove, then the cold air will warm up a little before entering the room. This is the first thing. Secondly, hitting an obstacle, the air flow loses its strength, which excludes the appearance of drafts on the floor. The presence of drafts in the steam room is an extremely unpleasant phenomenon.

The outlet must be made diagonally from the inlet under the ceiling.

You can find advice to make an outlet in the ceiling, but we do not recommend this option. On the one hand, the attic protects it from the wind, the risks of a critical decrease in traction are excluded, this is a plus. But on the other side, rafter system will be constantly wet, this is a minus. The minus is much more significant than the plus, you should not risk wooden roof structures.

Ceiling outlet is not the best option

Step 2. Purchase materials. You will need square pieces or round pipes for air ducts, adjustable decorative grilles, sealant, mineral wool and hardware. The ventilation holes can have a round or square cross section, this does not affect the efficiency in any way, be guided only by your preferences.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Step 3. Punch holes in the walls. You can use two methods.

1. Manual. A drill is used to drill holes along the perimeter of the ventilation duct. Drill them as often as possible, the drill should be strictly perpendicular to the wall. The size of the hole should be 1 ÷ 2 centimeters larger along the perimeter than the size of the duct. Next, with a chisel and a chisel, gradually select the remaining bridges between the holes. The work is difficult, "sad" and long. Professionals use a gasoline saw for such purposes, the holes are sawn with the end of the tire. But this method grossly violates safety regulations, we do not recommend using it. Better to lose more time than your health.
2. Mechanical. For round holes you can use crowns - special metal cutters for wood. They have one limitation - the maximum diameter for most tool manufacturers does not exceed 120 mm. But for saunas this is not a problem, if the steam room is very large, then you can make several holes and close them with one decorative lattice.

Video - Crowns for wood

If the walls of your bath are not made of wood, but of concrete or brick, it is better to use the drilling method, the steps of which are shown in the image below.

Very important. Take all possible measures to prevent rainwater from entering the frame in the openings. To do this, the grilles on the outside must necessarily be tightly closed; for thorough sealing, foam the space around the holes and cladding.

The inlet duct may be located under the shelf. The advantage of this solution is that ventilation becomes invisible. Minus - it is very inconvenient to open / close the ventilation hole.

Before starting work, check the tool for serviceability. The chisel and chisel must be sharpened - you have to chop wood across the grain, which is very difficult. Do not rush or try to make a hole all the way down from one side of the wall: the deeper the hole, the more difficult it is to work.

The crucial moment is marking the hole on the other side of the bath. You can do it this way:

• first drill a through hole with a small diameter drill, hold the drill only perpendicularly;
• further from the center hole, drill new ones in a circle. If you hit it correctly, then the thickness of the bar will be small, the end of the drill will fall into the already made channel. If you made a mistake - the thickness of the timber will increase, stop further drilling in this place. To make it easier to control the drilling depth, you can use a special factory drill stop. There is no stop - with ordinary insulating tape or tape, wind the strip on the drill at the desired distance from its end.

Do not try to make the walls of the hole perfectly even, the main thing is that there is a gap for mineral wool between them and the pipe. Put the cotton wool around the perimeter tightly, while installing the pipe, make sure that it does not cling to the end of the insulation.

Video - A hole in a large diameter log

To fix the pipe in the hole, use polyurethane foam, fill the gap between the pipe and the bath wall as deeply as possible.

Step 4. Insert air ducts into the holes, take all technological measures to insulate and seal them. Cover the holes with grilles.

Duct prices

duct

This completes the work. For complete confidence in the functioning of the ventilation system, it is worth checking it. To do this, open the inlet and outlet completely. Bring a piece of burning paper to the fresh air inlet and see how fast the smoke is drawn in and how it spreads throughout the steam room. The presence of smoke will make the air currents visible, it will be possible to roughly find out the problem areas and take measures to eliminate them. Problem zones are places where air flows are moving too fast or not moving at all, the so-called "dead zones".

Video - Assembly procedure for outdoor ventilation grilles

How to make forced ventilation in a Russian bath

The main advantage of forced ventilation is complete independence from weather conditions and the ability to adjust the air flow rate depending on the microclimate in the steam room. As for the cost, it increases slightly, the price of ordinary fans is available to absolutely every developer.

Modern fans can adjust the speed of rotation of the blades - the intensity of ventilation changes. In addition, some can be controlled by remote controls, and the ventilation hole is automatically closed after the fan is turned off.

For Russian baths, there are some restrictions on the use of electrical equipment - high air humidity puts forward stringent requirements for the protection class of the case. Practitioners advise against installing fans at the air outlet - the operating conditions are too difficult there. It is better to install a fan at the inlet, but one condition must be observed. The fact is that the speed of the air flow is very significant, cold air can create very unfavorable zones in the steam room. To prevent this from happening, install the fan only behind the stove, this will break the stream, the supply of fresh air to the room will be more gentle. It is not worth installing a fan under the shelf, the cold air at the feet does not increase the comfort of bath procedures.

Conclusion

There is no general recipe for ventilation for all types of baths; you must be able to make decisions on your own, taking into account the individual architectural features of the room and your own preferences. But in any case, you need to make every effort so that ventilation increases the comfort of being in the bath, and not vice versa.

And the last thing. You should always remember a few universal rules:

• the more complex any structure, the more chances of its failure, the more difficult it is to make it, the more problematic it is to maintain;
• not everything that is complex is considered the most efficient to use. Quite often, a simple natural ventilation "window" in a steam room will do its job no worse than forced ventilation with a remote control.

Advice should be heeded, but the final decisions should be made independently and be held accountable. And for this, one cannot do without a certain baggage of theoretical and practical knowledge. It is for this purpose that in the article we tried to consider the problems of the ventilation device of the Russian bath from various angles and suggested several solutions at your discretion.

Video - Ventilation in the sauna

In the bath, it is important to maintain an optimal level of humidity and temperature: steam, heat and the accompanying sharp temperature drop have destructive force capable of deforming even building materials the latest generation... But how to make ventilation in the bath so that such fundamental characteristics strengthen the durability of the entire building, and our health too? Let's consider the best options.

It has been proven that wood (the main material for the construction of baths) in these harsh conditions will last up to 20 years, but only with intensive air exchange. And the constant insufficient flow of dry air will force us to replace the skin in the steam room in 5 years, having paid a substantial sum for this repair.

Due to the lack of fresh air wood paneling intensely affected by fungi and bacteria and depressing us persistent unpleasant odor... By the way, the use of aggressive disinfecting chemicals in the bath is absolutely prohibited. Therefore, let's figure out how to properly ventilate the bath in order to completely remove this harmful "cocktail" from the room, reinforced by mold and mildew spores.

Bath ventilation

Ventilation is the process of removing exhaust air and completely replacing it with outdoor air.

The ventilation mechanism is simple: through one opening fresh air enters the room, and through the second (exhaust) it goes out into the street. The strength of the air vortex depends on the size and location of such vents. In this case, the correct calculation of the parameters for a particular bath will help us to avoid popular mistakes.

Features of ventilation

Consider how to properly ventilate the bath.

Projects are carried out by professionals for any baths, but during the installation itself, it is important to comply with such conditions.

• directly during construction, since it is not easy and dangerous to break through ventilation ducts in an already finished building. In addition, suitable ventilation circuit will inevitably require appropriate changes in the general plan of the building.

• The exhaust outlet is always larger than the supply outlet: to speed up the outflow, 2 hoods are also equipped. In this case, the exhaust air will leave the room faster, making room for fresh air.
• We will regulate the rate of such replacement by valves: we will completely close them when heating the bath in order to quickly reach the desired temperature. In addition, in winter, we also cannot do without such a containment of the natural cold flow. So, the valves perfectly regulate the intensity of ventilation.
• The section of the hole is strictly proportional to the volume of a particular room: 24 mm per 1 cu. m.

In the photo - a gate valve for the hole.

• The supply ventilation system also presupposes air heating in winter and its cooling in summer. Exhaust ventilation only removes unhealthy air from the steam room.

Note!
The exhaust outlet must not be placed opposite the supply outlet: the air mass will not have time to gradually and gently mix, and a dangerous draft will form.

• A strong convection flow will freshen the air as much as possible, because in 1 hour it takes almost 10 times to renew the atmosphere in the steam room.

Ventilation methods

Experts have developed optimal options for the location of the ventilation hatches themselves in the steam room, and the choice specific scheme depends on the features of the construction of the bath. Let's consider the most popular types.

Behind the oven

• The inlet will come in handy at the bottom behind the stove, while the heater will be in the path of fresh but cold air.
• We make the exit channels right in the floor, and the subfloor communicates with the one leading to the street.
• The exhaust air descends and goes underground through the holes, and from here through the pipe, it breaks out.
• This scheme saves heat, and always dries the damp subfloor, preventing the appearance of fetid and harmful mold spores there.

Over the oven

• The inlet for outside air is equipped above the heater, and the outlet is made in the opposite wall, but below the inlet.
• Then the warm stream near the stove will raise the cold stream, then lower and go outside.
• Cold air will not be able to penetrate through the outlet duct.

Under the oven

• We make the inlet next to the stove, below.
• Cold air, passing by the stove, heats up and goes up.
• We put the outlet pipes in the opposite corner, one meter from the floor, the other under. They are connected a single box ventilation, which we bring out into a common channel or onto the roof, or even into the attic.
• We equip all openings with grilles and valves that regulate the intensity of air flows.

Pull from the stove

If the stove is erected directly in the steam room, we will use this ingenious scheme:

• We arrange the stove so that the blower is below the floor, and we equip the inlet ventilation channel a little higher, above the floor.
• Now the stove itself will provide traction, without fans.
• The exhaust air leaves through its pipe, and the low supply inlet will increase the efficiency of the heater.

Hood under the floor

• We arrange the supply entrance behind the stove, one and a half meters from the level of the heater, but we make an exhaust hole on the opposite wall 30 cm below the floor.
• We will install a fan into the exhaust hole.
• The advantages of the scheme are in the uniform heating of the incoming healing air: the cold stream instantly heats up from the stove, goes to the ceiling, and when cooled down, rushes down to the exit.
• The lower the hood, the stronger the recoil from the oven.

Other options

• Scheme 1: the cold stream enters the steam room, heats up from the stove and is removed through the hood on the opposite wall. To force air, we use a fan installed in the hood.
• Scheme 2: the instruction recommends that both the supply and exhaust openings be placed opposite the stove on one wall ׃ the entrance is 30 cm from the floor, and the exit is 30 cm from the ceiling. This is a great scheme if the bathhouse in the house has only one outer wall, and only that we use for ventilation vents.
• Scheme 3: we equip the inlet opening behind the stove, 30 cm from the floor. Place the hood on the opposite wall, also 30 cm from the floor.
• Scheme 4: for saunas with a continuous cycle: here the heaters were blown in - there is also an extractor hood, so with our own hands we equip only one inlet at the floor, directly opposite the brazier.

Mechanized ventilation

Let's clarify how to make the ventilation ideal in the bath: it is the electric heater that will provide an intensive supply of fresh air through the ventilation.

Artificial steam injection by a steam generator is widely used in modern Russian baths. Similar ventilation in Turkish bath with an obligatory humidity of 100%. A mechanical hood is made here under a dome, but an air dryer is inserted into the pipe, which removes moisture into the sewer.

Advice!
In Russian baths, where steam is prepared by hand, we will use folk ways ventilation: the bottom of the doors is sewn with a ventilation grill.

High-speed ventilation evenly warms up and comfortably refreshes the room. Special fans are made of heat-resistant glass-polyamide and can withstand temperatures up to +130 degrees, consume 18 watts. The protection class of such a device is from IP-44 and higher.

Output

Organization of soft, gentle, but fresh blowing of the steam room while maintaining a pleasant microclimate - in a special arrangement of the supply and exhaust openings, as well as a specially arranged auxiliary equipment to them.

Ventilation depends on:

• direction and amount of warm air;
• lack of waste;
• economical fuel consumption.

Mechanical ventilation involves the use of software devices that control and independently maintain the set parameters of temperature, humidity, fresh air. But the cost of such an ideal is significant. However, the choice is ours.

Combined ventilation is based on the patterns of vents placement, and the pressure difference gives us mechanical devices exhausting air - fans. it the best option bath ventilation.

The video in this article will clearly demonstrate to us the process of creating an optimal air environment in a bath.

We have already repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.

How to properly ventilate the bath: planning during the construction phase

Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance, it seems that the train has already left. However, in fact, there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in brick bath where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls during the construction phase. But in other cases, the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation holes and channels by which they are connected to the street or adjacent rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of premises and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which ensures the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: steam room, washing room, rest room, dressing room, toilet. If ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bath has already been built

Take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to volley ventilation and use the furnace draft as a ventilation one.

This will fix the problem in general, but there are drawbacks to be aware of:

1. By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room as we distill the steam to other rooms (instead of the street from which the inflow comes from, it goes inward and condensation falls out there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature only dropped a little and will recover in a short time.
2. To use the stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then the inflow from the neighboring premises will flow through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To regulate ventilation with the help of a stove, a gate and stove doors are used. If it is necessary to increase the air exchange, it is enough just to open the damper and the firebox doors all the way. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because closed with unburned wood is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

by the way, problem forgotten ventilation in a bath from any material is solved in the described ways. Replace completely supply and exhaust ventilation they cannot, but they save you from worrying about making holes in the walls.

If this ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.

Device, diagrams: how to make ventilation in the bath

There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot useful information on a topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself sauna ventilation: a step-by-step guide

Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.

Choosing a scheme

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question "how to make ventilation in a bath correctly" is ambiguous, since there is different schemes... Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the difference in height between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensation), there is a more advanced scheme, in which there are two inside exhaust ports for one exhaust outlet... It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has only one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in which walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the supply - it is done under the stove, and the extract is done on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to an adjacent room.

Choose the optimal ventilation path

It's just that calculations are made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is this necessary? Take the case where the exhaust vent comes out to the same side from which it blows strong wind... And it turns out that the inflow strives to get into the exhaust hole because of this. Then the supply air will also "turn around" in the opposite direction. This is called reverse thrust or overturning thrust.

To avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be lengthened to lead out into the right side, and even make turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet of the inflow to the side from which the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood - on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.

ADVICE! Instead of making ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will accept the ventilation duct well in its thickness. Better not to do this during outer walls from blocks. There, all ventilation is carried out on interior walls and partitions, often over walls.

How to make a hole in the wall

This point is discussed in great detail later.

Installation of pipes and grates

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic, pay attention to them temperature Range so that the steam room does not spoil them.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, in which it is comfortable to be after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often installed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled out in an accessible way in the wall, put a plug on it on one side, and a grate or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions supplied with the device.

But if the furnace of the stove is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air comes to the stove from the street. For this, a ventilation duct is equipped, most likely made of galvanized steel, which passes under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out before the end of the work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is fixed with polyurethane foam and is closed with a grate, and on the other side is led out to the oven and supplied with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in the steam room of a bath

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath in the same way as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bathhouse, the ventilation is shut off for a while while you are steaming. But at the same time, it is extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room, one can call bastu ventilation. But you can also read about it in the mentioned articles.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages of self-assembly of air ducts, they are no different from those given above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls from a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

1. Before you start you need to know place and size the future hole, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, the markup is done. (It is advisable at this moment to have both pipes and grates on hand so that the process can be controlled through them.)
2. A drill for wood, the length of which must be greater than the thickness of the wall with the entire "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the marking.
3. After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the required diameter is drawn with a drilled hole in the center.
4. External and internal wall trim is neatly cut in a circle, freeing the log wall.
5. The same drill is used to make holes in the log around the entire circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Observe the perpendicularity of the drill to the plane of the wall.
6. The chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between the drilled holes. The work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
7. Taking out the middle part, do not line up the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here in the video, the same is done using a drill and a crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a bit instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with the metal (reinforcing mesh, pins, fastening fittings of openings). If this happens, you will need special pliers (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is a likelihood of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are pins under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pincers should be rented in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all of this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross-section), which must be insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and dampers are purchased for the required diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will emit carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will burn in the heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.

Useful video

It shows how to use a drill to make a square hole in the wall.

Well, that's all that we could tell you about how to make ventilation in a bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of our plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bath is a difficult business, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the wasted time or the money invested.

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During the construction of a steam room, a serious question arises: "How to make a hood in the bath?", Because we are dealing with furnace equipment, carbon monoxide, high humidity and steam. Ventilation in such rooms is needed no less than sewerage or heating.

V this material we will tell you about the features of the device and installation of ventilation systems for the bath.

Bath ventilation

Appointment

As you know, in the process of life, a person converts oxygen into carbon dioxide. Fire does the same, except that in addition to carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide is also emitted. In the bathhouse there is both a person and a fire.

In addition, in the steam room and other rooms there is increased content water vapor in the air. Such a combination of factors in the absence of ventilation will make it simply impossible to be in the room in half an hour.

Moreover, being in it will not only be physically unpleasant, but also dangerous, because carbon monoxide is odorless and can be poisoned unnoticed.

Important!
This implies the first and main function ventilation system: supply of fresh, oxygen-enriched air and removal of "waste" gas with all harmful and dangerous impurities.
In other words, the hood ensures normal gas exchange between the room and the environment.

Next important point Is a constant high humidity premises. With insufficient air circulation in the rooms, water vapor condenses on the walls, water does not evaporate for a long time and begins to be absorbed into the building structure, in our case, into the tree from which the walls, floor and ceiling are built. Wood is wet and chemical corrosion occurs.

Attention!
For the timely removal of excess steam and ensuring the normal timely evaporation of condensate, the bath simply needs ventilation. A building with a poor, ineffective ventilation system will not stand for long, since the effects of moisture will be destructive.

That is, we see that an effective exhaust hood in the bath must solve at least two main tasks:

1. Fresh air supply and exhaust gas discharge to;
2. Drying the premises during and after procedures, maintaining normal humidity air.

Varieties

First of all, the classification of any ventilation systems begins with their division into the following classes:

1. Natural ventilation through weakly ventilated but large enclosing structures... In other words, gas exchange takes place through walls with high permeability, as well as through natural crevices, gaps and openings present in the building.
2. Such a system may be sufficient for large rooms with normal environmental conditions, as well as for small baths together with the possibility of a sharp air supply through open windows, vents and doors;
3. Natural convection ventilation, which is carried out through holes located in special places due to the difference in temperature and pressure, creating a convection air flow through the room... One of the most common schemes, since it does not require energy consumption and, with the right device, is quite effective. Well suited for small and medium-sized saunas, but insufficient for large and public spaces;
4. Forced, or mechanical ventilation, which is provided by forced supply or exhaust, or forced supply and exhaust at the same time... Also, often all supply and exhaust openings are combined with air ducts into a single system, and powerful duct fans provide the circulation of air flows in it.
5. Such systems allow not only to effectively ensure the inflow and outflow of air, but also to control the mode of its circulation, which is especially important for large and public rooms and steam rooms..

The first variety was used in small-sized old Russian baths. The construction of the walls and ceiling, which consisted entirely of wood, made it possible not to worry about the air flow during the procedures, and after them all windows, vents and doors were opened and the room was dried.

If during the bath time there was a lack of fresh air, then there was always the opportunity to slightly open the windows and doors and ventilate the room.

Convection ventilation works according to the following principle: hot air accumulates under the ceiling, the pressure of which is approximately equal to or higher than atmospheric. At the surface of the floor there are masses of cooled air, and the pressure of the column of heated gas above it is lower than the pressure of the column of atmospheric air.

If you open a hole at the bottom of the room, then a stream of air will rush through it, since the pressure outside is higher. As a result, the heated air in upper layers will compress even more, and if we open the valve on the hole at the top of the wall, then the masses of hot exhaust air will begin to come out.

If both openings are opened at the same time, a constant convection flow will arise, which will tend to equalize the pressure inside and outside the room.

The third type of ventilation system, or forced circulation, is relevant for large rooms and rooms with a large flow of people. Fans are installed on both supply and exhaust openings.

Such a system allows you to create the necessary gas exchange in almost any room, but it requires competent calculation, design and installation, and its price is sometimes too high for the consumer.

Since our article is intended for owners of individual baths, we will consider natural convection-type ventilation. This system is easy to set up with your own hands, and the instructions are simple enough to follow.

Installation of convection ventilation in a bath

Before making an extractor hood in a bathhouse for individual use, they think over their ventilation system. The inlets can be positioned in the plinth in the form of underfloor vents.

Then holes are made in the floor in opposite corners of the room, and the area with reduced pressure, located at the surface of the floor, sucks in air from the street, at the same time ventilating the underground space, which is very important for building structures floor and walls.

Important!
Even if you are not going to place the inlet in the basement, then you are still obliged to circulate the gas in the underground space, otherwise you are threatened with rotting of the lower rims of the bath and floor structures.

Let's represent the process in the form of step-by-step instructions:

1. Behind the stove, at a height of 40-50 cm from the floor, a hole is made in the wall with an area of ​​at least 30 square centimeters, which is closed with a grate. WITH inside it is good to have a door or a plug that will allow you to close this hole if necessary (for example, when the room is too cooled down);

1. On the opposite wall, a hole is made under the ceiling, which is equipped with a grate and a latch from the inside to be able to adjust the air flow;

1. The area of ​​the exhaust opening should be twice the area of ​​the supply opening, since the viscosity of hot air is higher than that of cold air;
2. If it is in it, in order to direct the flow of air from the rooms where people rest to the toilet, and not vice versa;

1. It is also advised to place one hood in a washing room, and for saunas with medium and large size toilet and washing hoods can be equipped with fans, which are guaranteed to create traction and direct the flows in the desired direction;

1. It is not recommended to make an exhaust hole directly above the shelves, as a steamed person will find himself in a stream of draft, which can cause colds, especially in winter;

1. Exhaust opening with outside extended with a pipe, which should raise it above the roof. This will provide more traction and therefore more efficient ventilation.

Important!
The sure signs of improperly constructed ventilation will be an unpleasant musty smell, an abundance of condensation on the walls, traces of mold and mildew, constant high humidity in the bath, even long after the fire.

Output

Ventilation - essential system for the device comfortable and effective bath... The extreme temperature and humidity conditions of the steam room and other bath rooms require a constant supply of fresh air, which can be provided by simple convection ventilation, the installation of which we have considered.

The video in this article will be a good help for novice installers.

Ventilation in the bath with your own hands? - easily, the event can be carried out by a man without professional skills. Why do you even need to monitor how to properly ventilate the bath? The answer is obvious. Correctly arranged ventilation in the bath affects the maintenance temperature regime in a dressing room, washroom, steam room, or relaxation room. The second, but no less significant impact, the movement of air masses has on safety wooden structure and the service life of its parts.

When designing a bath complex and its design, it is necessary to take into account that the ventilation of the bath complex must be carried out taking into account the established rules, supplemented by subtle nuances. Information on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands, with detailed instructions, photos and videos, it is enough. We will outline the main stages of installing air exchange inside the sauna space and the steam room below.

Correctly arranged ventilation in the bath is guaranteed to keep the temperature at a comfortable level inside the steam room. Extending the service life of wooden structures.

The operation of the ventilation system based on the well-known laws of physics, as well as the ventilation scheme, is clear and does not raise any questions. To fulfill the condition of air circulation in a constant mode, we need only a couple of holes of two types:

• exhaust;
• supply.

Fresh air in the room will provide an air inlet. Best place location supply ventilation in the bathhouse - near the stove, at a height as close as possible to the floor. This arrangement will provide rapid heating of the incoming air, preventing it from cooling the room, maintaining a constant temperature.

The scheme of air movement inside the steam room.

The hood slots are necessary to remove the overheated humid air and carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide). The exhaust openings should be positioned opposite, as high as possible, slightly below the edge of the ceiling. It is advisable to place both lugs opposite each other, for effective creation and maintaining a continuous exchange of air.

Attention! Do not plan to locate the exhaust outlet directly in the ceiling! The hole for the air masses in the ceiling leads to a sharp cooling of the bath, preventing the hot masses from lingering.

With the concept of the location of the supply and exhaust openings, everything is clear and there are no problems in organizing work on the ventilation device in the bath with your own hands. But the task of maintaining high temperature in the steam room and at the same time effective removal exhaust air and carbon monoxide remains open.

You should also pay attention to the fact that ventilation in the bath should work to maintain an acceptable temperature in the rooms for hygiene procedures, in the dressing room, and in other parts of the room: in the dressing room, in the washroom and in the rest room. And if you are faced with the task of introducing a ventilation scheme in a steam room with your own hands, you should think about correct execution work.

Correct air circulation in the bath

Basic types of ventilation

There are two main types of ventilation:

• natural;
• forced.

Which one to choose is determined depending on the design of the bath and the volume of its premises.

Ventilation using an electronic control unit

Natural ventilation of the bath

It starts up on its own due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside the room and outside. The effectiveness of natural flows depends on the placement of the air inlet and outlet. Better and optimal when the feed holes are close to the floor. Place them at a height of 200-350 mm, next to the stove. It is better to place the exhaust pipes of the hood on the opposite wall, below the ceiling level of 150-200 mm.

Ventilation systems with natural air movement are not suitable for ventilation of a steam room or sauna, as cold air in this room accumulates at the bottom of the floor, and hot air at the top. We need the hot streams to stay in the steam room as long as possible.

Adjusting the air flow is difficult, but correct location DIY ventilation system components, you can deal with this problem.

Natural ventilation for the steam room is not desirable, it is advisable to organize it in the recreation area

Forced ventilation

This kind of air recirculation in the steam room of a Russian bath or Finnish sauna can be divided into two subspecies:

• Ventilation controls temperature and humidity by automating the electronic system, by automatically adjusting the flow and filtration. Systems like these are expensive and often under budget.
• The combined ventilation system assumes the joint use of normal natural air exchange in combination with a forced fan.

Internal diagram ventilation ducts in the wall of the bath

Ventilation in the bath depends on the type of construction

The natural movement of air, with the correct location of the ventilation holes and their size corresponding to the volume of the premises, works well in a Russian bath, assembled from round logs or timber.

The structure of the steam room frame must be airtight. It is advisable to use forced ventilation in timber frame baths. Supply vents are arranged in outside wall steam room and must be additionally equipped with a blower. In bath structures made of brick or concrete blocks, it is possible to achieve high-quality air movement only through forced ventilation.

Depending on what material the bathhouse is built from, a ventilation system is selected.

We plan ventilation in the bath: subtleties and nuances

Before proceeding to the choice of the ventilation scheme in the bath and the device of its design with your own hands, you need to understand the subtleties and nuances of design.

Carefully! Even a minor mistake in the location of the air supply and exhaust openings leads to unpleasant consequences. In the steam room or to lower the desired hot temperature or an increase in the concentration of carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide).

The ventilation system is laid down at the design stage of structures - the necessary channels are planned and the location of the intake and exhaust windows is determined. During the construction of the bath, adjustable windows are installed after the decorative paneling of the room. The organization of the exchange of air masses in the room and the question "How to make ventilation in the bath" must be solved at the design stage.

The ventilation ducts of the dressing room, bathroom, steam room, rest room, as well as openings for the flow of fresh air and removal of a mixture of carbon monoxide gases, including moist air masses, must be installed at the appropriate stages of construction. On the stage final finishing In the premises, valves and grids are installed to control the dimensions of the supply and exhaust openings and the cross-sections of the ventilation ducts.

Basically, two factors affect the effective functioning of the bath ventilation:

• size of ventilation windows... Both supply and exhaust air openings are determined by the amount of space, be it a dressing room, washing room, steam room or relaxation room;
• location of slots relative to each other.

1. Size of ventilation openings

The dimensions of the slots depend on the number and volume of rooms: a dressing room, a steam room, a bath room or a recreation room. You need to pick up optimal size these holes, and also provide the ability to adjust it. Install the door flap and grill to adjust the gap in the holes. The exhaust opening is made with approximately the same dimensions as the dimensions of the inlet opening. In any case, the "hood" should not be less than the "supply", otherwise it is impossible to ensure a full outflow of humid and carbon monoxide air from the steam room.

In the photo on the left. ventilation opening with a slider for adjusting the amount of fresh air. Please note that when a large number ventilation windows it is more difficult to heat the bath room to the correct temperature.

Large ventilation windows result in excessive consumption of fuel or electricity. In addition, problems arise with the adjustment of the cross-section of the ventilation ducts. It is difficult to relax if you constantly have to change the position of each valve.

IMPORTANT! The dimensions of the ventilation opening are calculated as 24 cm2 per 1 m3 of the volume of the ventilated area. For a good supply of fresh air from outside, the outlet lug must be larger than the inlet.

If the area of ​​the ventilation lugs is insufficient, the temperature, humidity and concentration of carbon monoxide in the room can rise to critical levels.

The required size of the ventilation opening is designed at the rate of 24 sq. Cm per 1 cubic meter bath volume

2. Location of ventilation openings relative to each other

The functioning of any ventilation system is based on replacing the mass of hot air with cold air. The movement takes place under the pressure of cold air from the outside, since it is heavier. It remains only to provide for the possibility of adjusting the direction of the flow of hot air coming from the oven installed in the bath.

For this reason, steam room ventilation is not limited to equipping a single inlet. It is necessary to plan two windows. To optimize heat flow it is enough with the help of a valve - adjust the gate valves in the holes of a certain width.

Schematic representation of the placement of ventilation holes in the steam room. Fresh inflow and removal of contaminated air masses.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

Collect ventilation in the bath with my own hands, it's easier if you stick to simple rule... Qualitative indicators of the ventilation system in the bath are laid down at the initial stage design work... In the bath, the circulating air flows in the premises, have a pronounced temperature difference, to level the discomfort from this mixing is the main task.

IMPORTANT! A comfortable atmosphere in a bathhouse depends not only on the absence of sudden changes in temperature "horizontally", that is, when moving from one room to another: from the relaxation room to the dressing room or from the steam room to the washing room. Synchronous mixing of air masses in a vertical plane is necessary: ​​the air temperature near the floor should not be significantly lower than the temperature at the level of human height.

The microclimate in the bath is directly influenced by the number, size and location of ventilation windows.

The uniformity of the intake, mixing and removal of air masses depends on the number of supply and exhaust openings, their size and location relative to each other, as well as heating devices and equipment of additional devices.

Block diagram of the ventilation device in the bath

Any scheme of the ventilation system in the bath is designed with one goal in mind - maintaining the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room. Bathrooms, especially steam rooms, are exposed to water and steam, so periodic ventilation and drying is required. But ventilation and drying will be ineffective if proper ventilation in the bath is not organized. Correct and continuous ventilation of the steam room significantly reduces the effects of moisture absorption by wood.

Bath ventilation controls the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room.

Do-it-yourself floor ventilation in the bath

Air exchange in baths and saunas also provides a ventilated floor.
in constant contact with water lose appearance and become unusable after 4 years. Ventilation requirements organized by means of the floor:

• it is necessary to create a stream, and make a small vent in the foundation part of the building;
• the floor should be laid, leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards;
• position the supply air openings in parallel walls (remembering to protect the control grilles from rodents);
• it is advisable to make the stove work as an additional hood, for this it is necessary to plan the level of the finished floor above the blowing;
• it is necessary after the completion of the water procedures, leave the door to the steam room open until the floor in the room becomes dry.

Bath ventilation - general scheme systems

Ventilation in the bathhouse dressing room

There is no direct contact with water in the dressing room. That is why, making ventilation with your own hands in the wardrobe room, armed with photographs and videos with instructions, will not be difficult.

Use natural or hybrid ventilation. Use a fan to supply fresh air. Install ventilation openings with ventilators that require direct access to the street and power connection with a power cable.

In the dressing room, natural and combined ventilation is allowed.

Ventilation in the washing area

To optimize air exchange in the washroom, a forced ventilation system is used. It is driven by an electric motor. The air flow is removed in the direction of the vestibule (vestibule). The air supply and exhaust duct is mounted with the same cross-section. section. The inlet opening is located above ground level (2 m) and the outlet of the branch pipe is brought out to the roof.

Steam bath ventilation

Special requirements apply to the microclimate of the steam room. The steam room must be quickly warmed up, while maintaining the optimum humidity level and without drafts. Thus, the actual position and dimensions of the inlet and outlet channels, which are used in the construction of the bath, are very important for the steam room.

To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, the valves in the ventilated openings are sufficient. A large volume of space will most likely require a blower or exhaust fan.

Scheme: ventilation in a steam room

We have presented typical design concepts for ventilation in a bath. Videos and images, attached instructions will surely help those who want to build a bath complex on their own. We wish you the earliest possible embodiment of your dreams in concrete forms!