When deciding on the arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor, the owner must be aware that the work performed must be of a high quality level and last as long as possible. Therefore, in the future, we will focus specifically on modern methods of obtaining self-leveling floors. The technology discussed below is not the most affordable and easy.

Self-leveling polymer 3D floors are currently recommended as a topcoat. It will not only give the floor originality and originality, but will also make such a coating an equal component of the interior.

The essence of 3D floors is that thanks to the decorative component based on high-strength polyurethane, such floors allow you to create a quasi-three-dimensional image. Such floors are performed in two stages: first in the usual way produced polymer fill, and then, when it is ready, the topcoat is performed. Since transparent polymers are used, the resulting image will have a certain depth.

The aesthetic level of such floors is very high, which allows you to create real architectural compositions, even using components such as colored sand or marble chips.

Naturally, the implementation of this type of self-leveling floor will have its own nuances, which will be discussed below. In the meantime, let's look at the steps required to create the main polymer coating.

Preparatory activities

The room intended for pouring must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris, and all unnecessary items (for example, baseboards) must be removed from it.

Next, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for work.... In particular, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris, and to remove old paint residues, traces of glue, etc. - a grinder. By the way, the quality and durability of the floor to be laid directly depends on the thoroughness of cleaning.

It is very important what material the coating is made of. For example, if a wooden base is to be poured, then for better adhesion of the polymer to the surface, the wooden floor must first be sanded, all detected cracks must be opened, and then degreased with special compounds. Degreasing is most often used with conventional organic solvents - acetone, gasoline or white spirit. But for the subsequent polymer filling, it is worth using more effective compositions.

If there are no problems with the disposal of the residues of the degreasing solution, then you can use an alkaline solution of KM or simply add surfactants to the composition. Special degreasing wood flooring compounds are also sold (for example, from the Mellerud trademark) - in this case, you can protect yourself from possible fungal formation.

Next, you should evaluate the moisture content of the floor. It should not be more than 10%, otherwise it will be impossible to fill such a coating with a high quality polymer. On the last stage it is necessary to seal the cracks with special building mixtures.

The preparation of the concrete floor for pouring is performed in a specific sequence.

Assessment of the relative humidity of concrete

It should not exceed 4%, in otherwise the coating should be dried. The simplest method for assessing the suitability of a concrete floor for pouring in terms of its moisture condition is to lay a regular rubber mat on it, which should be pressed firmly on top. If after a day the concrete coating has not changed its color, then its humidity is within acceptable limits.

Checking the strength indicators of concrete (if the laying was carried out recently)

The compressive strength must be at least 20 MPa, and the peel strength must be at least 1.5 MPa. You can perform such a check with improvised means. This requires a chisel and a hammer. Having installed the chisel perpendicular to the concrete surface, it is necessary to apply several hammer blows on it with an average force - if the marks on the concrete are barely noticeable, and the concrete after the impact has not crumbled, then its quality meets the requirements;

Determination of the presence of a waterproofing layer

If it is not there, then the work on arranging the self-leveling polymer floor will have to be stopped, since over time the process of peeling of the coating will begin. This circumstance is especially important for self-leveling floors, equipped in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms. In case of poor-quality waterproofing, the resulting vapors will penetrate through the capillaries in the concrete to the inner surface of the polymer floor and cause its destruction.

All other preparatory operations on a concrete base do not differ from those on a wooden base.

In the event that it is planned to fill the polymer floor according to ceramic tiles, then it should be checked for possible voidness (it can appear when the adhesive used for gluing the tiles dries). Tiles lagging behind the surface are removed, and the resulting voids are putty. Next, the surface is degreased.

Priming the surface before pouring

The greatest danger when making self-leveling floors is air bubbles that can form in the polymer during pouring. In addition, the primer provides better polymer spreading over the surface to be poured. This is very important because the setting process is extremely fast.

The wooden surface should be primed in two or even three layers, which will ensure the complete closure of the pores. Here it is most advisable to use primer mixtures with a high viscosity, for example, from the brands Litonet Pro, Knauf, etc.

For concrete surfaces, a two-component epoxy composition is suitable, which does not contain mineral components that contribute to the formation of bubbles. The primer is carried out in two stages, and the secondary primer is made only after the first layer has completely dried.

It should be recalled that the primer formulations are very toxic, so the room must be constantly ventilated. At the same time, one should not allow an excessive decrease in temperature, since at + 15 ° C and below, the effectiveness of adhesion of the primer mixture to the base decreases. After complete drying, the primed surface should "rest" for about a day.

An integral part preparatory work is the laying of a thermal compensation seam around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you can use regular hardwood slats. The presence of such seams will protect against possible deformation. finished coating in case of significant temperature differences.

How to prepare components for pouring

Poor casting will hopelessly ruin the coating, so this stage should be taken with the utmost seriousness. To mix the components, you will need a low-speed electric drill with a wide paddle-shaped nozzle. Even better, a building mixer is available. The quality of the self-leveling floor decisively depends on the speed of the mixing process, since the finished composition must be used (that is, poured over the surface) as quickly as possible.

In the process of mixing the components, an exothermic reaction occurs, as a result of which the temperature of the mixture rises. In order that the polymerization of the components does not occur too quickly, the container in which the mixing is performed is placed in another filled cold water... As a result, the temperature of the finished mixture will not rise as quickly.

For the same reasons indoor humidity should not exceed 80%... At higher humidity, condensation occurs on the surface of the polymer being poured, as a result of which the quality of the filling will decrease, and the setting time, on the contrary, will increase.

In the process of mixing the working mixture, it is necessary to quickly check the mixing quality. Routine visual inspection (for example, for lumps) is often insufficient. Experts recommend checking the polymer-containing mixture for readiness for pouring as follows:

• a plastic ring with a diameter of 50 mm and more and a height of 30 mm (for example, a cap from a bottle with an air freshener is suitable) is placed on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It could be a piece of thick glass;
• the stirred mixture is poured into the ring, after which the ring will rise, and the mixture in the middle will pour out onto the glass surface;
• if the mixture spreads evenly, with a “spot” diameter of 18-20 mm, then it is ready for use. Smaller spot diameters will result in a mixture that is too thick and subsequent leveling will be difficult, if not impossible. At larger diameter the mixture turns out to be more liquid, and the initial components for pouring should be added to it.

How to fill the floor

It is better to start the process from the wall, which is as far as possible from front door... The filling is carried out as uniform stripes as possible, parallel to the wall of the room. Particularly problematic areas - between adjacent strips - should be smoothed out immediately using a wide trowel.

It is important to keep the minimum difference in thickness between adjacent strips. A needle roller will help in this, rolling it over the surface of the self-leveling floor, achieving its uniform thickness. At the same time, the quality of the filling is improved by removing possible air bubbles.

The final pouring time is determined by the volume of the prepared mixture, but in most cases it should not exceed one hour. For the proper quality of the filling, the interval between the laying of adjacent polymer strips is also important - it should be no more than 10 minutes. After the end of the pouring, the surface must be covered with plastic wrap. It will prevent dust and dirt from falling on an incompletely solidified surface, and will also contribute to a more uniform solidification of the polymer.

3D decorative coating

The decorative layer can be formed in two ways - either by drawing with the desired image, or by drawing directly on the coating. For the second option, you will need acrylic paints that do not collapse under the influence ultraviolet radiation... The first way is cheaper, because now you can find a sufficient number of vending drawings, which can then be obtained by printing on a plotter, using banner fabric as a basis. To increase durability, the fabric should be covered with a thermal protective vinyl film.

The image should be slightly larger than required, since it is always easier to cut a piece of a picture than to glue it onto a self-leveling floor - this is ugly and inconvenient.

To connect the 3D image with the base layer, it should be pre-primed using the same composition as for the filling, but diluted with any organic solvent to half the concentration. The primer will cure within 20-24 hours.

The printed image is glued to a primer and rolled using a dry roller. At this time, it is possible to move on the surface of the coating only in shoes with spikes on the sole, otherwise the coating will be damaged! The thickness of the transparent polymer coating should be within 3-4 mm (the greater the thickness, the brighter the effect of the 3D coating).

The preparation and application of the clear resin to cover the banner fabric is the same as for the base fill. Full polymerization will take place in 20-30 minutes, after which, to ensure greater durability, the surface is covered with a layer of transparent varnish.

Video - Do-it-yourself self-leveling polymer floors

Traditionally, the floor is leveled with a cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with it, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. To facilitate the work, you can use additives, additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve a flat surface. This technology is called liquid, jellied or self-leveling floors, since the solution is really liquid and it is poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is long and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level, the speed of hardening and other characteristics. Therefore, the most common way is to use ready-made mixtures that are selected according to their characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures, you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that an excellent result with self-production easy to achieve, but possible.

One of the varieties of flooded floors is polymer, and they can be monochromatic, or they can have an image in their composition. These are the so-called 3D floors. All of them are applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat - polymer floors (and three de) require a perfect base. On concrete slab it can be done using filling technology. Therefore, it is imperative to study it.

Technology and sequence of actions

If you start looking for which mixture to buy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will be confused: there are different compositions with different characteristics... All of them are used in this technology, but for different needs and situations. There are two large groups:

Not so much? But that's not all. In each of these groups there are fast-hardening compounds. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, with a lack of experience (and where can he get it if you are doing a flooded floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening may result in the fact that while you stir all the lumps when the composition is blocked, it will begin to set and there is no time to level it. There have been cases. For example, we were going to fill a room with 16 squares, kneaded two bags of quick-hardening composition in a large tub. The time from getting into the water until setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, and it almost does not flow anymore. We tried to level it, it almost does not work. Then they quickly unloaded everything into sacks and took them to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid such a situation, do not take quick-hardening compositions for the first experiment.

One more nuance. The compositions must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions: for indoor or outdoor work, if the room periodically remains without heating, frost resistance is needed. For laying underfloor heating there is also special formulations- in the list of characteristics there must be a mark about compatibility with heating.

Now about what self-leveling floors are made of. The composition can be based on cement or gypsum, in rare cases, both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (Prospector brand). When buying a leveler and a finishing compound from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement are in conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveling agent is based on cement, then the finishing compound should also be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.

What you need to know

So, the main points and features of the "self-leveling floors" technology:

If the floor is leveled for tiling, a leveling trowel is often sufficient. Small differences up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: what will be cheaper: pour a layer of liquid floor or increased consumption of tile glue. Both options are equivalent in terms of performance, so choose the less expensive one. Under all other coatings - laminate, parquet board, bag, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. - a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If after the equalizer there is no such result, you will have to fill in another finishing layer.

What do you need

In addition to the bags with the mixture, you will need some tools and accessories:

Working procedure: do-it-yourself self-leveling floor

The first stage is preparation of the base... Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The gaps are embroidered, if they are too large, they are sealed with tile glue or a dry mixture for pouring the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones - up to 3 mm deep - are left without embedding, they just clean well. After finishing the cleaning, they clean everything well, collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The second stage is the primer. It is better to take a primer from the same company as the liquid floor - a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions with which compounds can be used - based on gypsum or cement. You need to prime thoroughly, completely saturating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush or even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single priming is not enough, and after the first has dried, the second, and maybe the third, is applied.

The general sequence of work when pouring the floor. Using this technology, make self-leveling floors with your own hands

Stage three - installation of beacons... Lighthouses are displayed in different ways. The first way: how to use with a conventional screed metal profiles... They can be left in the floor, or after the solution has set (primary hardening), remove and fill the holes with the same mixture. Second way : with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, setting the caps in level. This method is acceptable if you level the solution with a rule. Then, when filling, focus on the caps. Third way: make "rails" from a thick, fast-setting mortar for pouring the floor. Basically, for this they use a "P" -shaped profile for drywall, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It, with its back up, is laid on the self-tapping screws set at the level. A solution is placed inside with a spatula, filling to the very top. The trick here is that there are no voids left. There is a modification of this method: along the laid out self-tapping screws, lay out a roller from the solution into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected, if it did not have time to grab, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.

Stage four - filling. We'll have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most of the compositions lose elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant, two containers for filling. Beforehand, it is better to measure the required amount of water (pour it into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, put everything in rows. Install a sill near the door - so that the liquid floor does not pour out and you can make it even.

One person closes the composition - pours water, pours out the composition and mixes it with an electric drill with a stirrer, the second one pours and evens it. The one who smoothes should put on a special sole with thin metal rods on the shoes. If you don't want to buy it, you can make it yourself (for example, see the photo).

The composition is poured onto the floor with a "snake". Although it spreads, it is not so good that you don't need to do anything at all. You will have to level, especially if you are laying the starting, coarse leveling, with a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing the beacons, you "drive" the solution either with a long mounting rail - as a rule, or with a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). In order not to crawl on your lap with it, it can be attached to a long handle. Some people prefer to use a toothed roller to disperse the grout. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm), it does a good job, thinner ones need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly - you need to have time to fill the entire room even before the moment of final hardening, in addition, the next portion of the solution is being prepared.

As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level it already on a new area, mixing two zones along the edges. So the entire surface is poured.

Stage five - waiting and checking the result... After pouring, close the doors - so that there are no drafts - and wait for the required time. It is very different. Mixtures on cement set longer, on plaster - faster, but usually you can walk on the surface after 12-24 hours.

When specified term will pass, take the two-meter rule and check the result. When using a coarse leveling agent, the difference can be 2-5 mm, or it can be measured in centimeters. It depends very much on skill. If you made a self-leveling floor with your own hands for the first time, and the drops were less than 10 mm, we can congratulate you on your success. This is a good result, and the existing unevenness will be leveled by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain, better spreading.

If you want good results, find a good self-leveling mixture. Of course, it will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of formulations is their price. In general, it is noticed that the less experience, the more expensive the composition should be used for a guaranteed even floor.

All the nuances and features of the flooded floors are well described in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and several brands that are recommended to use are voiced.

Manufacturers of self-leveling flooring compounds

Many companies, both foreign and domestic, are represented on the market. Some compositions are praised by everyone, some have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often come across this work, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, can get an excellent result. It is more difficult for beginners: they do not know how it should be, therefore they cannot fix it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save money: in order to get a good result, you will have to buy a composition for a self-leveling floor with very good characteristics and reviews. And these are expensive brands.

Here is a list of manufacturers and formulations, with a brief description:

• Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
• ‘Prospectors - the reviews are different.
• Pyramid - Little Experience.
• CERESIT CN78 - it is easy to work, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
• IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a gypsum-based self-leveling mixture, other compounds level slightly worse.
• BROZEX NP-42 - good result, normal spreading.
• Horizon Universal - it's hard to work.
• Vaateri Plus Vetonit is a self-spreading machine with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is flat, and it is expensive.
• Forbo 976 is a self-leveling mixture with good performance.
• Basite T-45 - spreads well and smoothes, it is not suitable for a thick layer (more than 10 mm).
• Plitonite (PLITONIT) - the composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
• Kreps-RV and SL - according to reviews - are normal characteristics at an affordable price.

Naturally, these are not all manufacturers, but those with whom you can make the floor, and do not suffer (according to the reviews of those who worked with them) ...

Polymer and 3D self-leveling floors

The technology of the device of polymer floors is similar to the installation of self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be spread over the surface. The difference is in materials. These are mainly polymers. They differ in the type of binder component:

• polyurethane;
• epoxy;
• methyl methaacrylate.

In terms of the thickness of the coating, they can be very thin - it is a dust-free coating and painting, and they can have a thickness of 1.5-4.5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component - before application, they are mixed in a strictly metered proportion. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (primer is its own) and leveled.

Polymer floors can have a glossy or matte surface, or rough. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors), a gloss or matte surface is mainly used, in swimming pools or on open terraces- rough, so that it is non-slip even when wet.

Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3d floors (three de), are a special case of a polymer floor. The drawing is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is a thorough study of the picture and high quality of printing. This pattern is glued to the prepared base, then poured on top with a layer of transparent polymer. After drying, another layer of abrasion-resistant varnish is applied. The result is those very beautiful pictures on the floor that many like so much.

The basis of the quality of a 3D floor is a perfect base and high-quality drawing

Self-leveling floor technology with a pattern

Step by step, everything looks like this:

All the technology of the 3D floor device is demonstrated in the video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should go away completely.

Those who want to make a voluminous self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. if we are talking about photo printing - then in an advertising agency dealing with banner advertising or in a printing house that has equipment for large-format printing on fabric.

If we are talking about polymer compositions, then the number of manufacturing companies is in the tens. There are both domestic and imported ones. They, as a rule, produce the entire line - from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are a lot of possibilities for tinting. Choose any of the catalog. This is if you plan to fill a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer, you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photo), as well as transparent. They can also trade all sorts of "chips" to create a shimmery floor, for example, etc.

As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are some, describing the materials they produce (which they trade):

• TeoKhim enterprise - produces polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
• Etal and Etal UV - epoxies
• Remmers Epoxy (epoxies), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
• Self-leveling polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 - one-component (toxic, work in a respirator)
• Polyepoflex - epoxy self-leveling floors
• Ultraflor - polyurethanes
• Poly-Flor - all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methaacrylate)
• Epolast - two-component epoxy compounds
• Sikafloor-2530W - epoxy self-leveling floor

Actually, this is all technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as keep within the specified time before the compounds harden.

Another video on how to make plain polymer floors.

Recently, the technology of applying polymer floor coverings is gaining more and more popularity. The second name of the technology is self-leveling floor. This partly explains the manufacturing technology. The finished composition is not mounted, but poured onto the prepared floor surface.

Polymer floors

Self-leveling polymer floors do not contain cement. This significantly speeds up the installation process. The polymer mixture consists of two, in some cases three phases.

The base of the mixture is acrylic, polyester or epoxy. The most resistant to external damage are mixtures that include epoxy.

In addition to the main component, the mixture includes the following elements:

• hardener substance;
• granite chips or gravel;
• colored pigments.

Advantages of polymer coatings

Let's consider the main advantages of this type of coating:

• short polymerization period;
• high level of elasticity;
• resistance to low temperatures;
• high level of wear resistance;
• long service life;
• ease of use;
• safety for human health;
• aesthetic appearance;
• a variety of textures and shades;
• the ability to install a three-dimensional coating.

Disadvantages of technology

Speaking about polymer floor coverings, one cannot fail to note their inherent disadvantages:

• high cost of materials;
• the complexity of the installation;
• high cost of installation work;
• when installing polymer coatings on a new foundation, it is necessary to withstand a break before installation for at least 1 month;
• vapor permeability;
• when installing the coating on a cement base, it is necessary to additionally apply a layer of waterproofing material. Otherwise, the coating may be damaged due to vapors penetrating through the concrete.

Peculiarities

Polymer flooring has the following characteristics:

1. The absence of connecting seams ensures a high level of hygiene. The coating is easy to clean both wet and dry. The seamless technology prevents insects from spreading indoors. The material does not absorb moisture and retains its aesthetic appearance for a long period of time.
2. High level of resistance to various chemicals. Alkaline and acidic solutions are not capable of destroying the finished coating.
3. Lots of modifications. Any end result can be achieved appearance surface. The coating can be either smooth or rough.
4. Diversity colors... The ability to create a unique coating design. The three-dimensional technology of drawing a pattern is also popular.
5. High level of durability. Thanks to the polymers included in the mixture, it is possible to achieve a strength equal to that concrete base.
6. High level of elasticity. Thanks to this, the surface is not subject to external damage.
7. The material does not support combustion.
8. Durability. If you follow the basic rules for caring for the coating, you can achieve a long service life.

The main types of polymer coatings

DIY polymer floors are applied using two main technologies:

1. Thin coating. The thickness of the applied mixture does not exceed 0.35 mm. This technology suitable for work in standard rooms with an average level of loads on the floor surface. The mixture can be used as a final coat or underneath a waterproofing mixture.
2. High-fill coating. Its average thickness can reach 4 mm. This technology is intended for installation of coatings in buildings with an increased level of floor load. Differs in a high level of durability and strength. Various options for surface decoration with the use of additional inclusions are possible.

Installation work

To fully familiarize yourself with how to make polymer floors, you need to study the main stages of work:

1. Preparation of materials for work.
2. Base surface treatment.
3. Floor priming.
4. Finish coating.

Preparation of materials for work

The work is carried out using metal tools. In order not to damage polymer coating, it is recommended to pre-soak them in acetone solution for 6 hours.

During installation, the roller should also be moistened as often as possible in an acetone solution. This will prevent the remaining mixture on the roller from polymerizing.

Note! Work is done only with dry tools. It is unacceptable to use contaminated ones.

To install the self-leveling floor, you will need the following tools:

• plastic roller;
• bucket;
• painting spatula;
• rule;
• shoes with specialized soles;
• mixer;
• squeegee - adjusts the level of coating thickness;
• personal protective equipment - work with toxic materials. Therefore, during installation, be sure to use protective gloves and a respirator mask;
• vacuum cleaner.

Base surface treatment

Before starting work, you must first prepare the base of the floor. It must be leveled and free from chips and cracks.

The polymer coating can be applied to any type of substrate. However, before applying it, be sure to prepare the surface for work.

First of all, it is worth checking the evenness of the coating. To do this, you need to use the level.

Note! Deviations from the level should not exceed 4 mm.

Processing features depend on the type of floor surface.

1. Work with wooden base... Surface cleaning, moisture check. Skirting boards, paint and stains must be removed. The surface should be sanded. Dust and dirt are removed with a vacuum cleaner. To prevent damage to the polymer surface, it is necessary to apply a layer of screed to the wooden surface. It will prevent damage from natural deformation of the wood surface due to temperature differences. Fill not recommended bulk mixture too thin.
2. Work with concrete surface... The floor should be leveled, cleaned of dust, paint and dirt, then additional sanding of the surface should be carried out. If the base is badly damaged, it is recommended to apply a new one on top. In this case, the polymer mixture is applied 3 weeks after the completion of the installation of the new screed.
3. Working with a ceramic surface. It is necessary to check the strength of the coating. To do this, each tile is tapped. If the sound turns out to be sonorous as a result, the tile should be removed. The place must be primed and covered with a layer of putty. Then the surface is degreased and primed.
4. Work with metal surface... Cleaning the base. Removing paint, grease and oil stains. Degreasing. Removal of traces of corrosion and rust by sanding.

Floor priming

Before applying the polymer mixture, the floor surface is primed. The substrate must be dry and free of dust. Priming is done 2 hours after the dust removal procedure.

The primer is carried out using a special mixture - impregnation. It is applied to the base using a roller. The primer will improve the adhesion of the polymer mixture to the floor surface. The impregnation is applied in one layer when working with a metal base, in 2-3 layers when working with other types of bases. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has polymerized.

Putty

After the surface of the floor has been primed, it is necessary to give it evenness with a putty. In this case, the existing cracks and irregularities will be corrected.

It is necessary to start applying the polymer solution at least one day after priming the surface.

Work should start from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the front door. So that there is no air residue in the applied solution, it should be processed with a needle roller.

The mixture is applied in stripes. For ease of application, you can use a special hose. The liquid is leveled with a squeegee. Next, you need to compact the layer using a special roller. Work is carried out in shoes with metal studded soles.

Finish coating

After base layer the mixture will be applied, you should start processing the surface with a finishing layer.

Finishing is carried out 48 hours after pouring the polymer solution. As finishing mixture you can use polyurethane varnish. It improves the quality of the polymer mixture and adds shine to the floor surface.

Applying a topcoat will significantly extend the life of the self-leveling floor. The varnish should be applied in at least two coats. After applying each of them, it must be allowed to dry for at least one hour.

Note! The self-leveling floor is ready for use not earlier than two days after the finish coating has dried. If an increased level of load on the floor surface is envisaged, the polymerization period must be increased to one week.

Flooring is one of the most difficult to repair and replace interior parts, since it requires significant processing of the entire room. It is temporarily impossible to live where the sex is changed, because there are problems with walking around the room. In addition, the replacement of floors is often accompanied by the replacement of skirting boards, and this, in turn, often leads to damage to the wall decoration - in a word, replacing the floor covering is almost equal to a full renovation of the entire room. That is why maximum attention is paid to the choice of floor coverings.

Each customer wants such a repair to last for at least a decade, or even longer, fortunately, the modern choice of materials contributes to this. In addition to the classic types of wood, modern designs are increasingly using various synthetic materials, but a kind of squeak of fashion in last years is a polymeric self-leveling floor.

What it is?

A polymer floor fundamentally distinguishes it from other types of floor coverings by its device, since it is not stacked, but poured. The material is made from various polymers and is sold as a liquid. To pour this type of floor, first make a full-fledged base of concrete screed or any other dense material, on top of which a liquid polymer is poured in a thin layer. That, solidifying after a certain time, gives a perfectly smooth, and most importantly - even (due to the property of the liquid to form a uniform level) surface without the slightest joints.

Initially, this type of coverage was used in public buildings with a huge turnover of people - for example, in airport lobbies. This application is due to maximum ease of cleaning caused by the integrity of the coating without any seams and joints, as well as the high strength of the material, which makes it possible not to close terminals and other premises of special public importance for long-term repairs.

However, private consumers quickly appreciated all the advantages of such a floor and became interested in the possibilities of pouring polymers in private properties, and manufacturers promptly responded to the increasing demand and presented more affordable, but no less high-quality options for houses and apartments.

Today, polymer self-leveling floors are available in any large city, their filling is successfully carried out in rooms of any size and purpose.

At the same time, industrial enterprises and public institutions still remain the main consumers, however, for home use such coverage may be appropriate. Polymer floors are available in two main varieties, but if you count the minor differences, you can count great amount variety of options, each of which has its own advantages and is optimally suited for premises of one type or another.

Peculiarities

If for public institutions and industrial enterprises the use of such floors is almost a panacea for all ills, then not every owner still decides to use such a covering in an apartment. It is possible that important role in the selection process, there is also a design moment, after all, such a floor is not always able to create the necessary comfort or just fit into the desired style, but still, before installing, you need to once again go over the advantages and disadvantages of this material in an ordinary home.

If you look at the pros, they are very numerous and will force many to be urgently interested in the prices of this product. Here are the main advantages of using this type of flooring at home:

• High elasticity contributes to the fact that the floor is practically not susceptible to any mechanical damage - it can easily survive even a small earthquake, because, if necessary, it can stretch and shrink.
• Chemical resistance allows the flooring not to change its appearance even under the influence of any aggressive chemicals, from detergents of any type to others accidentally spilled.
• The polymers underlying such a floor are able to continue the phrase "water wears away a stone, but a self-leveling floor does not." Moreover, due to the integrity of the seamless coating, this is also an excellent waterproofing - even with a flood in the apartment, the neighbors below will not know about it.
• The polymer coating is non-flammable, therefore it fully complies with fire safety standards.

• A floor of this type is very easy to maintain, because it allows the use of any type of detergent, and also excludes the ingress of dirt into the seams, which simply do not exist.
• The service life of a high-quality polymer coating, even in conditions of the highest daily traffic, is no less than ten years, and even in an apartment it is almost an eternal option.
• Many people fear that the high smoothness of the surface will result in slipperiness, but in reality this is not at all the case.
• Modern self-leveling floors and the technique of their pouring make it possible to achieve a very tangible artistic effect.

All of the listed properties literally force them to immediately give preference. However, there is not a single building or finishing material, which would not have some disadvantages. Self-leveling floors, of course, also have them, and although there are not so many of them, they are serious enough to scare off most potential customers:

• Truly high quality costs a lot of money, and although in recent years the developers have done everything possible to reduce the cost of the material, it is still more expensive than the vast majority of analogues. An attempt to save money, by the way, may turn out to be fraught, since the cheapest types of floors based on polymers, judging by the reviews, quickly fade in bright sunlight.
• The high cost concerns not only the material itself, but also the work performed. Although the liquid used for priming is capable of leveling the level on its own, due to its high cost, it is usually Special attention devote to creating a perfectly flat and balanced base. It costs a lot, and even takes a large number of time, not to mention the fact that for quality result we need confidence in the high professionalism and dedication of workers.

• Polymer flooring is a very durable type of repair. It is strong and reliable so that no one has yet come up with an adequate way to dismantle such a coating. Consequently, if the self-leveling floor gets tired, or, even worse, wears out to the obvious need for replacement, the new coating will have to be done right on top of it, which in the conditions of most standard old apartments that do not have too high ceilings will lead to a noticeable decrease in space. And if replacing one self-leveling floor with another, as is done at airports or industrial workshops, will take a maximum of a couple of millimeters, then replacing it with parquet will take no less than a couple of centimeters, which can even force the doors to be altered. This is a significant disadvantage of such coverage.
• Pouring a polymer floor is a difficult task, since the material is very whimsical to the hardening conditions. For a perfectly flat surface, it is necessary that the moisture content of the base does not exceed 4%. The permissible temperature fluctuation in the room during solidification is two degrees in one direction or another.

In other words, normal filling is possible only in a sealed room and under stable weather conditions.

Views

Self-leveling floors, also known as 3D, are now available in a wide variety of types, which helps to more accurately select the properties that are optimal in certain conditions. While not all of them seem to be suitable for home use, a bit of attention needs to be given to each species to prove that one or the other is not suitable for residential use.

Of the classic coatings that have been used for several decades, epoxy floors and floors made of polyurethane. These two varieties are the most common, and they are usually a prime example of how opposite the properties of different types of bulk polymer coating can be. The epoxy variety is famous for its highest resistance to any damage, both mechanical and chemical.

Even a slightly less shiny and attractive surface does not stop customers, forcing them to purchase such a coating for finishing industrial workshops and enterprises, laboratories, and other similar premises.

The polyurethane version is also characterized by amazing stability, but in this component it is still somewhat inferior, but it looks a little more attractive, and most importantly, it is less wiped off with your feet. That is why it is actively used in offices and other public institutions with high traffic, and also looks more relevant at home.

Of other varieties, it is worth highlighting methyl methacrylate and cement-acrylic floor, which are a kind of new analogues of epoxy and polyurethane. In general, today's self-leveling floors are made from the most unexpected materials. Even a variety of urea exists, which, by the way, is considered convenient in installation due to the method of application through spraying.

If we talk about reliability, then it is usually not advised to choose a floor based on polyester, since it is with this material that problems in quality and durability arise.

As for the appearance, usually polymer floors are made colored with the addition of colored sand. As a result, such a coating can even resemble a wood-polymer floor in appearance, so that the problem of fitting such an ultra-modern material into classic designs looks almost solved. Moreover, in some cases, you can purchase and transparent composition- in this case, it looks especially appropriate to create a base for covering from natural wood, although more often they are used simply to create an upper protective layer of a self-leveling floor.

Thanks to this solution, you can get everything best benefits polymer fill for the exterior, using literally any decorative inserts from the most unexpected materials and components.

Which is better?

The choice of a self-leveling floor should be based on the purpose for which it will be used. Since we are generally talking about typical home conditions for our country, in terms of their operational and aesthetic qualities, polyurethane and cement-acrylic mixtures are most suitable for decoration. But polyester floor coverings should be used with great caution - reviews indicate that the quality of such material is often poor.

Another thing is that even a private customer for his own needs can order the floor that is considered in to a greater extent focused on industrial needs. Such a need arises in a situation when the question of finishing the floor in the garage is open - there this surface experiences significant mechanical stress due to a passing or standing car, and at the same time, some aggressive chemical compositions, including oils and much more.

Again, the use of all these substances does not create ideal cleanliness, so the floor in such a room should be designed for maximum ease of cleaning and minimum contamination, as well as have high chemical resistance. Therefore, materials based on epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate.

The basis, which is almost always an ordinary concrete or cement strainer, does not put forward any special requirements for the type of flooring, however, you can build on the appearance of the finished floor. It should be noted that the most often used are those options that have received the name « liquid linoleum» , because when frozen, they really resemble this finishing material.

Honestly, the imitation of any other types of finishes turns out to be very conditional and can hardly be called believable, so the option with such a "linoleum" should cause the greatest confidence.

How to choose?

The choice of self-leveling floor components is quite difficult, since the materials are numerous and varied. For example, for a concrete base, you should first choose a reliable waterproofing material, cement M-200 or higher, as well as make and lay the mixture itself so that its moisture content does not exceed 4%. In some cases, two-component floors are made, when the basis is a wood-polymer composite, which looks very much like ordinary wood, and an ordinary colorless polymer floor is poured on top.

Although the home environment is unlikely to offer the same amount of hazards and stress as in an industrial workshop, a combination of different types of polymer base is usually recommended for use in an apartment. In the hallway, bathroom and kitchen - where there is an increased amount of dust and dirt, increased humidity, and the likelihood of spilling caustic or hot liquids is high, it is recommended to fill in epoxy compounds.

For living quarters, it is very important aesthetic appeal, and various strength tests are expected here much less, so here the choice often falls on decorative polyurethane floors.

At the same time, for the house, you always need to choose antistatic mixtures with quartz sand in the composition, because the accumulation of small charges of electricity is not conducive to health, and attracts dust.

I must say that self-leveling floor in the interior is not combined with any wall decoration, and this moment must also be taken into account, because changing the flooded floor covering is very problematic. V living rooms in combination with polyurethane on the floor, decorative putty on the walls looks best. Expensive ones will seem normal too vinyl wallpapers, but ordinary paper wallpaper are likely to be inappropriate. For the kitchen, in combination with epoxy floors, either classic tile, or colored plaster, with which the self-leveling floor will be combined in the same way as the laminate, quite often imitated by it.

In some cases, the owners of private farms prefer to refuse classic materials even for exterior decoration and for the street, not slabs are used, but a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which is well suited for pouring garden paths... Here methyl methacrylate, which is unpretentious to temperature changes and hardens faster than its colleagues, will show itself as best as possible.

Thanks to this unusual solution, the paths in the garden will always look fresh and clean, their color will delight for a long time. In this case, you can use a small tile as a base.

Required tools

In practice, pouring a self-leveling floor is not such a difficult process. She does not need any special equipment, so more and more men find it necessary to carry out repairs of this kind on their own. To complete the task, the master will need:

• Large container for preparing a mixture for pouring - usually a volume equal to at least two medium buckets is assumed.
• A drill and a special attachment for it, allowing you to mix any liquid mixture. There is a catch, since not any drill is needed, but only one that allows speed control, because too active mixing is fraught with spraying the future floor on the walls. Not any nozzle is also suitable - it is necessary that it mixes the mass in the container up to the very bottom.

• A set of spatulas, adapted for applying the mixture both in the main part and in the most inaccessible places.
• A special needle roller, with which the future floor surface is rolled again after application. This is done in order to remove small air bubbles from the mass, which will certainly form during the pouring process. If they are not removed before the mass hardens, this will have an extremely negative effect on the strength and durability of the material, and may lead to its cracking even with slight mechanical stress.
• A chemical solvent required to remove contaminants from the pouring liquid from used tools. There is no universal solvent suitable for all types of self-leveling floors, so it must be selected based on the instructions indicated on the jar with the self-leveling floor mixture.

• Studded shoes are an important part of the job because even while pouring, repairers will have to walk on a freshly filled surface, and only a spiked sole can reduce exposure to liquid material.
• Most experts also recommend purchasing several pairs of ordinary rubber gloves in advance, which will help protect the skin from the effects of all the components used in the process.

Preparation

The mixture, which will form the floor in the future, is applied to a previously prepared surface, which is most often concrete. Such a surface requires a minimum level of moisture and ideal horizontal position, therefore, when laying a new screed, the process is carried out in two steps - the first layer is applied to a semi-dry mass, and only on top of it is a thin leveling layer (within half a centimeter). Only after the floor is well high x, you can proceed to further actions.

In this case, in some cases, you can take an old concrete screed as a basis, but then it is carefully cleaned of dust and any other contaminants beforehand, and any visible cracks are carefully repaired with a special epoxy compound.

In this case, by the way, one cannot do without pouring an additional leveling screed.

Old wood floors can also be used without dismantling. The first step in this case is to carefully inspect the floor, replace or repair any worn components, and reinforce their fastenings. If the floor has been painted, old paint must be removed, any irregularities and gaps are filled with a special wood putty. After the putty dries, the surface of the old floor is carefully sanded to a state of perfect smoothness, after which the dust is removed from it using an industrial vacuum cleaner, and the same leveling screed is poured on top.

After that, the surface is primed. The primer is chosen depending on what type of self-leveling floor is chosen - any conscientious manufacturer should indicate on the packaging how to choose the right primer in this case. The primer is applied in two layers using a fine-bristled roller, sometimes with an ordinary paint brush. The second coat of primer is applied only after the first coat is completely dry.

In order to increase the effectiveness of priming, it is recommended to add quartz sand to the primer.

Manufacturing technology

You can do the pouring of the self-leveling floor with your own hands, but on condition that the instructions are carefully studied and will be followed to the last letter.

Filling with polymer occurs on average with a thickness of 1.5-3 millimeters, but this, of course, is only true if concrete screed was executed with high quality and is really horizontal. Material consumption per 1 m2 is calculated based on the fact that one liter of liquid mass is square meter surface, covered with a layer of one millimeter. In this case, the thickness of the layer may vary somewhat, because the liquid flows into any seams and pits, so you need to purchase flooded floors with a margin.

The first step in preparing the mixture is mixing, which must be carried out as thoroughly as possible until complete homogeneity of the mass is achieved. When the finishing composition is ready, application begins - the liquid is simply poured onto the floor and dispersed in all directions using a rule or any other similar tool. Air bubbles are likely to form in the flooded layer. - they must be removed using a specially prepared needle roller.

At this stage, you can only move around the room with the help of shoes with needle soles - the mass will fill the small pits left by such spikes, but the trace from the usual shoes would probably remain for a long memory to the owner of the room.

When the composition begins to visually thicken, its acceleration over the surface and rolling with a needle roller is stopped - the time has come for the aesthetic decoration of the coating. V modern design it is actively used to mount any extraneous elements in the self-leveling floor, including small pebbles and shells, as well as coins and any others decorative elements, which, when solidified, will firmly "stick" into the material.

Such a prefabricated "pie" allows a creative person to turn a rather boring floor covering into a real work of art that you never want to change, which immediately solves the problem of the difficulty of replacing such a covering.

After the bottom layer of polymer with the decorations sticking out of it has completely hardened, a second layer is applied - usually completely transparent. Its task is to cover the protruding elements to create a smooth surface, so that the calculation of the number Supplies must also take into account the size of the "extraneous" decorations. Moving around this layer should be even more careful as it is the immediate surface of the future floor.

Craftsmen for their own needs are allowed to move on the hardened outer layer already on the second day after its application, but when the pouring leaves the workers completely satisfied, you need to wait another week until the material is completely hardened. After that, he is ready for all those difficult tests, to withstand which he was created.

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The fill thickness in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin-layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors exposed to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are suitable in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, maintainable
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors are suitable for environments with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are particularly shock and wear resistant. In terms of properties, they are close to polymer concrete.
Bulk colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The ratio A: B is 100: 60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, solvent-free, colorless epoxy system for high-strength decorative topcoats.
Universal epoxy pouring compound	Density 1.50. The ratio A: B is 100: 10. Life time is 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component painted epoxy for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy filler	Density 1.65. Ratio A: B -100: 10. Life time is 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Conductor device protective coatings on concrete foundations in warehouses, production, assembly and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The ratio A: B is 100: 20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a hetero-chain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength, they have a sufficient elastic resource. They arrange a polyurethane floor covering in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers etc. In terms of layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and shock loads. Various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip) can be imparted to the polyurethane coating.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

• wear resistance;
• dustlessness;
• immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
• a wide range of colors - the coating can be either colored or transparent;
• lack of smell when styling;
• the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-3D image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, the topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a sander to remove glue and remnants of the old coating. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next follows preliminary preparation grounds. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no difficulties with the disposal of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy and special means for degreasing wood (for example Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungi.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed tightly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work it is impossible to create a self-leveling floor, because concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in a bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, with poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries into concrete pavement to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! The rest preparatory activities for a concrete base practically do not differ from those for a base made of wood.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the formed voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures a special leveling mortar suitable for this thickness can be used.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. For work you will need:

• polymer leveling mixture;

  

• deep penetration primer mixture;

  

• putty knife;
• building level;
• squeegee;

  

• electric drill with mixer attachment;
• needle roller;

  

• container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is better to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

• improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
• improved adhesion to the base;
• preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primers are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a cast floor is a temperature-compensated joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, take wooden slats(required from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, bigger size filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

• A small ring is cut from the deodorant lid and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
• the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
• with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Pouring the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3 ° C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

• add the finished image in advance;
• make a drawing on the coating.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is more simple and cheap way, because today you can purchase your favorite image in the form of a printout on a plotter (in this case, banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase the service life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the size of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video -

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. Characteristically, it is possible to move on the floor only in special studded shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors