Almost all gardeners love and grow strawberries, but not everyone knows when it is better and how to properly transplant it to a new place so that it continues to bear fruit. Having learned a few subtleties of transplanting, you can avoid many problems and grow a rich harvest of these tasty and healthy berries.

When is it better to transplant strawberries - in autumn or spring?

To receive good harvest strawberries, you need to follow the rules for caring for the crop. One of the main requirements is regular (once every 3-4 years) plant transplantation to a new location.

Strawberries are transplanted both in the spring and in the summer-autumn period.

When landing, the following factors are taken into account:

• The land for spring transplantation is prepared in autumn, and when autumn planting 2 weeks are enough. If the soil has not been prepared since last year, then it is better to postpone the transplant to a later date, that is, summer or autumn, depending on the region.
• In the spring, the seedlings are weakened after a long winter. By autumn, the plants provide strong planting material, which allows you to grow healthy plants that give a good harvest.
• the first crop is harvested one year after planting. Plants planted in autumn, as early as the next spring, delight with their berries, which makes such a planting more attractive than spring.

In different regions, the time for transplanting strawberries in spring varies greatly. Due to the temperature characteristics of the climate, planting is carried out from April to early June. It continues until the moment when the plants begin to eject buds. Then the transplant is suspended and continues only after the end of fruiting.

Transplanting strawberries in spring begins, after warming up the earth to a depth of more than 10 centimeters, otherwise the plants die. If the snow cover has been melting for a long time or spring frosts spring transplanting is often delayed. In this case, it is better to plant strawberries in a new place. late summer or in autumn, when the ground is warmed up and more than a month remains before frost.

When choosing the timing for transplanting strawberries, you need to consider climatic conditions region: the duration of the warm season, the frequency of precipitation, the onset of the first frost. In any region of Russia, strawberries are transplanted into open ground 1 month before the start of the first frost.

Young bushes from the moment of transplantation should have time to take root, get stronger, in order to further bring bountiful harvest.

In the Moscow region, strawberries are transplanted to a new place from August 15 to September 30.

This fit allows you to get more early harvest berries.

Planting times may vary depending on the weather conditions in the current year. The main thing is that before the first frost the plants have time to take root, otherwise they will die.

In the Urals

The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the Urals is the period from August 15 to September 15.

Plants are planted in different ways. Planting plants under black film or agrofibre, in the spring an earlier harvest is removed (1.5-2 weeks ahead of schedule).

When planting strawberries in open ground, the plants are covered with a film with frequent precipitation.

In Siberia, strawberries are transplanted from late July to mid-August.

At a later planting, the plants are planted under the covering material or in the greenhouse.

In the Leningrad region

In the Leningrad Region, strawberries are transplanted from mid-August to mid-September.

In order for the plants to take root faster, they are covered with agrofibre. The material allows moisture to pass through and retains heat, which are the main requirements for plant rooting.

The strawberry yield grows due to the appearance of new leaves, whiskers and peduncles on the bushes. After 3-4 years, the growth process in plants stops, the number of berries decreases, they lose their taste and become smaller. Over the years, the soil under the strawberries is depleted, diseases accumulate in it, and pests multiply.

To obtain a good harvest of strawberries, regular soil renewal and removal of old bushes from the beds are required.

For transplanting strawberries, 2-year-old bushes are taken. Younger plants have not yet matured, and 3-4-year-old bushes do not give a good harvest.

Strawberries are propagated by whiskers and bush division.

Planting is done in open ground or under a black film or agrofibre.

In regions with unstable temperature indicators, it is better to plant seedlings under film or agrofibre, which protect the plants from negative environmental factors.

From mid-June to July, strawberry bushes produce whiskers. For transplanting strawberries with a mustache, healthy, strong bushes with a strong root system, developed leaves and a core are selected.

The strongest whiskers growing closest to the mother bush are left on the mother bushes. Other peduncles are pruned so that the plants do not waste energy on the development of new bushes. The whiskers, if they did not have time to take root, are sprinkled with earth and, when 3-5 leaves appear, are transplanted to a new place.

For planting strawberries, a light, not flooded area with loamy and slightly acidic soil is selected.

• If there is peat land on the site square meter beds are brought in 1 bucket river sand and 1 bucket of earth.
• A bucket of clay chips, 5 kilograms of rotted leaf litter, 5 kilograms of humus, compost or peat are brought into the sandy area.
• V clay soil 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of peat and 1 bucket of rotted humus are added.
• With a high acidity of the soil, wood ash or dolomite flour is introduced into the ground.

Onions, garlic, legumes, grains, beets, and carrots are included.Poor prior crops are eggplant, cucumber, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and potatoes.

A plot for strawberries is prepared in 1.5-2 weeks for planting. Complex fertilizers, steamed sawdust or rotted humus are applied to the soil cleared of weeds and roots. The soil is dug to a depth of 25 centimeters.

Before planting strawberries, 10-15 kilograms of rotted humus are introduced into the soil per square meter, a glass wood ash, 25 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate.

The soil is dug up again, leveled with a rake and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

You need to transplant strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Landing

If the site allows, then the best scheme for planting strawberries is a single line. Bushes in this case are planted in 1 row, in increments of 25-30 centimeters. The row spacing is 80 centimeters. This planting pattern makes it easy to care for and access the strawberries from 2 sides during harvest. The emerging mustache further makes the landing more dense.

In a small area, strawberries are planted in 2 lines. The sockets are planted in steps of 30-35 centimeters in one row, the same distance is maintained between the lines. The row spacing in this case is also equal to 80 centimeters.

Caring for such plantings is more laborious, but with frequent feeding, the crop yield does not decrease. Whiskers with this cultivation are further removed.

Holes are broken on the prepared bed. Their depth should be equal to the length of the plant root system.

The planting material is inspected for damage. Bad seedlings are discarded. Saplings with roots longer than 10 centimeters are pruned. Good seedling should have 3-4 developed leaves, a strong, developed root collar with a diameter of more than 6 millimeters and a dense core.

To avoid diseases, the roots of seedlings are placed for 1 hour in a solution of Aktara and Previkur.

Prepared holes are filled with water. After absorbing water, the bushes are placed in the holes, the roots are straightened.

They are covered with earth so that the core of the plant is on the surface of the soil.

Strawberries are once again watered and mulched with dry soil or rotted humus, peat, steamed sawdust.

At the time of harvesting strawberries, bushes are selected, which will later be used for dividing into individual seedlings. Selected bushes, after harvesting, are covered with compost or rotted humus.

At the same time, the roots of plants begin to develop actively, which later contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings after transplanting them to a new place.

Overgrown plants are dug out together with an earthen clod. The soil is carefully separated from the roots. The bushes are placed in a container with water. When soaked, the horns are separated from each other using a sharp, disinfected knife.

Dry leaves, shoots, peduncles and old roots are removed from each detached horn. The seedling should have 2 young stems with light roots.

The roots are dipped in a clay mash, consisting of 3 parts of clay, 1 part of manure and water (water is added until the mixture is creamy).

Instead of a chatterbox, you can use a solution of, a teaspoon copper sulfate and 3 tablespoons of table salt per bucket of water. Plant roots are soaked in this solution for 1 hour.

Prepared seedlings are laid out in the holes. The roots are sprinkled with earth, lightly tamped and watered with settled water from a watering can. The soil around the plants is lined with a layer of vegetable mulch or dry soil.

Care measures for transplanted strawberries include regular watering, weed control, pest control, and loosening of the soil around the bushes.

When watering plants, the water should not fall on the foliage. The first 7-10 days after planting, the seedlings are watered daily. Then watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week. The soil should be moist, but not wet, as overflowing can lead to the death of strawberries. On a large landing area, you can organize drip irrigation, which simplifies the care of plants.

If the beds were fertilized before transplanting, then the strawberries do not need additional feeding.

The roots of an adult strawberry can withstand soil temperatures up to -7 degrees, but young bushes are deprived of such frost resistance. Therefore, after planting strawberries, the soil around the plants is covered with mulch.

To shelter bushes for wintering, needles, peat, sawdust, rotted humus, straw, needles are used. Only plant roots are covered.

When snow falls, the bushes naturally protect themselves from frost with the help of a snow crust. In the absence of snow cover, the plants are covered with agrofibre or spruce, pine spruce branches.

Inexperienced or novice amateur gardeners very often confuse the names of garden strawberries, victoria and strawberries. However, according to experts, "Victoria" is one of the oldest, first varieties of strawberries brought to Russia. Transplanting "Victoria" in the spring is very important in areas with cold winters, which include Siberia and the territory of the Urals.

The need for a spring transplant

Strawberries, or garden strawberries, of any variety, including "Victoria", it is recommended to transplant to a new place every five years. The transplantation of berry crops is a necessary measure in the conditions of home gardening for several reasons:

• five years after landing in a permanent place berry culture ceases to form new growths, which can have a very negative effect on both qualitative and quantitative indicators of productivity;
• varieties with increased productivity take out a significant amount of nutrients from the soil at all stages of the growing season, as a result of which the soil is depleted and ceases to provide the nutrition necessary for the growth and development of the plant;

• long-term cultivation of berry crops in the same place causes the accumulation of pathogenic microflora and hibernating pests in the soil, which contributes to the rapid defeat of old and already weakened plants.

Majority modern varieties and hybrid forms of garden strawberries are characterized by high rates of productivity, so they need enhanced nutrition. It is for this reason that plants need replanting more often. Experts recommend changing the area for growing garden strawberries of continuous fruiting at least once every two years. Only in this case, the berry culture will bear fruit abundantly, and the harvested crop will be as tasty, healthy and high-quality as possible. As a rule, in most regions of our country, transplantation is carried out in the spring. Nevertheless, in order to choose the optimal transplantation time and understand in which month such an event will be most effective, you should know all the advantages and disadvantages of an autumn and spring transplant.

How to transplant strawberries (video)

Advantages and disadvantages

Autumn transplant is relevant only if the cultivation of a popular berry crop is supposed to be in regions with subtropical and tropical climatic conditions. In areas of temperate climates, transplanting in the autumn may result in the fact that the plants will not have time to fully adapt to growing in a new place before the onset of the first significant frosts and, as a result, will die in the winter. This berry crop belongs to remontant varieties, therefore, the period of transplanting in autumn can be postponed to a relatively late autumn, but taking into account the possibility of rooting before frost.

In most regions of our country, spring is the best time for carrying out activities for planting garden strawberries. It is best to plant and transplant berry bushes during the period from the second decade of April to the last days of May. Thus, during the spring, as well as the summer and autumn periods, the transplanted berry bushes will be able to fully adapt to the new growing conditions, easily endure the winter cold and form the richest and high-quality harvest next year.

Transplant features

It is necessary to plant "Victoria" in well-lit and level areas, closed from gusts of cold wind, according to the following recommendations:

• lowlands and areas with high humidity levels cannot be used for planting garden strawberries;
• perennial berry culture takes root well and bears fruit abundantly on the ridges where they were previously grown legumes, beets, onions, carrots, cereals, dill, parsley, and garlic;
• bad predecessors for this variety will be garden crops represented by cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, any nightshade crops and strawberries;
• at least a month and a half before the expected transplantation date, a deep digging of the soil should be carried out and about three kilograms of humus should be added per square meter;

• the best for growing is the area represented by sandy loam soil, therefore, when digging, clean sand is introduced;
• before transplanting, the soil should be loosened to a depth of 8-10 cm, and then furrows should be made and spilled abundantly with water;
• the standard distance between planted or transplanted berry bushes should be at least 20-25 cm;
• the standard distance between rows should not be less than 50-60 cm, which will provide plants optimal area food;
• immediately after transplanting, abundant watering with warm water and subsequent mulching with sawdust with a layer of 4-5 cm is carried out;
• a good result is obtained by planting berry bushes on top of a special covering material.

The plots on which Victoria has already been grown will be unsuitable for planting and replanting garden strawberries for at least five years.

Aftercare for strawberries

The agrotechnology of growing the variety "Victoria" under the conditions of home gardening is simple and practically does not differ from the cultivation of garden strawberries or strawberries:

• in the last decade of April or the first days of May, feeding with a complex gives a good result mineral fertilizers, which will provide abundant fruiting;
• for preventive purposes, it is very important to spray the berry plantings with a solution based on copper sulfate;
• watering is carried out in the morning or evening hours using warm water heated in the sun;
• systematic removal of weeds and loosening of the soil should be carried out, and, if necessary, podkucheniya bare as a result of irrigation of the root system;
• top dressing before mass flowering with potassium sulfate and nitrophosphate has a beneficial effect on the yield and quality characteristics of berries;
• after harvesting, berry plantings should be fed with a solution based on nitrophoska and wood ash.

Strawberries "Victoria": growing (video)

Transplanted plants need quality care... The main activities are aimed at accelerating the survival rate of berry bushes, as well as obtaining a plentiful and high-quality harvest as soon as possible.

Good day, our readers. Today we will talk about strawberries.

This is one of the most favorite berries of children and adults.

It is a delight to consume this berry because it has a pleasant aroma, sweet taste and juicy pulp.

Jams and compotes are an integral part of the stocks of almost every cellar. Anyone who has summer cottages or personal plots is required.

In this article, we will talk about why you should plant strawberries in August. How to choose the right seedlings. And how to care for strawberry bushes.

Cooking strawberry seedlings

There is one belief. In order for strawberries to grow well and give big harvest, it should be stolen from someone else's garden or front garden.

But as we understand, in order to get a high-quality and sweet strawberry harvest, you should purchase healthy strawberry bushes. And especially when it comes to elite varieties. They, in turn, are expensive.

Frigo seedlings

Recently, frigo seedlings have become popular. .

These are the best selected bushes that are hardened. negative temperatures... For this, seedlings are dug up in late autumn, placed in bags and stored at low temperatures below zero.

Despite its prevalence, berry bushes should be carefully looked after and monitored. You should buy seedlings in proven places, it is best to do this in large nurseries and greenhouses.

Seedlings are usually sold from July to August. Before buying, you should carefully inspect each bush.

Bush selection criteria

He must meet the following criteria:

• Leaves have a rich green color, the presence of dots, spots, dryness is not allowed.
• Horn. The thickness of the sapling horn should not be less than 7 mm.
• Bush has a firm, firm green center.
• Roots. Have open seedlings the length of the roots should be 5-7 cm. If you take strawberries in a peat pot, then the roots should stick out at the bottom of the holes of the pot. If you choose seedlings in plastic cups, then the roots should be all over the glass.

As you can imagine, this is the sequence of choosing seedlings when buying in nurseries and greenhouses. But often friends and neighbors exchange different bushes and varieties of strawberries. In this case, you should inspect according to the same criteria and select the best samples.

Bush restoration

And before landing, you should do resuscitation measures.

To restore the roots, they should be placed in water.... To accelerate root formation, you can add specialized formulations to the water, for example, root or heteroauxin. Professionals recommend instead special means use natural products honey (teaspoon) or aloe (one crushed leaf).

In order to increase the survival rate, we leave 2-3 leaves on the bush and this is enough... If you leave a lot of sheets, then a lot of moisture will be lost through their surfaces, and since we still have a weak rhizome, the bush will acclimate for a long time and hurt.

Pruning the roots up to a length of 4-5 cm. This is enough.

Young roots will give fast growth the whole strawberry bush.

Preparing the landing site

The soil

Strawberries grow well on chernozem soils with an acidity of about 6%, on sod-podzolic soils, clay and sand. Mature bushes are not afraid of drought. It is unacceptable to use lowlands or closed areas of land.

Planting strawberries near water bodies and surface groundwater is not recommended. Dark gray forest soil is ideal for strawberries.

Most importantly, strawberry bushes love the sun, and in the shade you will not wait for normal fruits.

A place

Before you start planting seedlings, you should clear the land of weeds. Inspect for the presence of pests, if necessary, carry out treatment with special preparations.

If necessary, the plot of land allotted for strawberries should be dug up. Two weeks before planting the seedlings, we fertilize the site.

Fertilizer

As a fertilizer, you can use humus, compost, or droppings.

This mixture usually contains:

• compost +
• ash +
• manure (horse or cow, rotted).

This fertilizer will require 1 bucket per 1 sq. m.

Also, do not forget about phosphates(potassium sulfate and superphosphate).

They are added according to the instructions on the package.

Recently used already ready-made combined fertilizers that contain everything necessary for the growth and development of plants. You will need to consult the shop assistants.

In 10-12 days after fertilization, our soil is ready for planting strawberry bushes.

Treatment of the old site

If your place does not allow transplanting strawberries to a new place, then you will need to treat the land plot before planting.

To begin with, we dilute baking soda 200 g. (pack) in 10 liters of water, and spill a piece of land.

We are waiting for about three days, and we are preparing a solution of potassium permanganate. Add 2-3 grams to a bucket of water. potassium permanganate.

These two compounds will help disinfect the soil from pests and diseases. Also, after 2-3 days, you can start planting strawberry bushes.

Place of strawberries in the plot rotation

If you have a large plot, then the strawberries should be transplanted using the crop rotation rule. That is, we alternate planting different crops on the site.

The best predecessors will be onion and garlic... Then there are dill, parsley, radish, oats, lettuce, and so on.

You should not plant strawberries in places where cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, eggplants, peppers are planted.

Planting strawberry bushes

Basic landing patterns

In total, there are several schemes for planting strawberries:

• Planting one-line... From the name, everything is clear, we plant strawberries in one row. The distance between the rows is about 60 cm. And the distance between the bushes is 15-20 cm.
• Planting two-line... The stripes are in two rows. The distance between the stripes is about 60 cm. And in the strip, the distance between the rows should be 30 cm, and between the bushes is the same as in the one-line scheme.

Embed the strawberry bush in the prepared soil in such a way that the middle of the bush looks out a little above the ground.

• If you deepen it too much, the middle will start to rot and the bush will die.
• If the roots are left on the surface, the middle will dry out, which in turn will lead to the death of the bush.

Most the best option- planting seedlings on hills.

After planting, be sure to water abundantly. Do not forget to cover young seedlings with straw, sawdust, and then cover with foil to create a greenhouse effect. Subsequently, we weed and water.

To save space, strawberries are planted in pyramids. different shapes and kind, use hanging pots.

Step-by-step instruction

How to transplant strawberries in summer in August with division and mustache?

According to experts, it is best to plant strawberry bushes on a warm, cloudy evening. Before proceeding with planting, we will analyze the main types of strawberry propagation.

Mustache reproduction

This method is the most proven and frequently used one. Some just buy a few bushes expensive grade strawberries and then propagated.

Mustache breeding process:

1. We plant purchased specimens of strawberry bushes and cut off all antennae. We collect the first crop and select the best bushes.
2. After that, in August, we plant these bushes separately. They are also called uterine. Then in the spring when the buds are tied, we just cut them off.
3. And we leave the antennae, only the largest ones, we get rid of the rest.
4. Around June, rosettes form on the antennae (bring new leaves).
5. We bury these sockets in the ground lightly and water them.
6. We are waiting for 3-4 weeks and the new seedlings are ready, we continue to huddle, water and loosen the soil.
7. When you decide to transplant seedlings, before that, in 10-12 days, you should cut off the antennae from the uterine bush.
8. After that, the young seedlings go on their own root nutrition. And the bushes are already ready to be transplanted to a permanent place.

The strawberry breeding sequence described above shows how easy and convenient it is to get seedlings of your favorite strawberry variety with your own hands.

Transplanting

It is worth planting seedlings in prepared soil.

1. We divide the plot into rows, the distance between which is 60 - 80 cm.
2. Rows are best done in bulk.
3. The bushes are planted in prepared holes at a distance of 20 cm from each other.
4. The depth of the holes is approximately 15 cm.
5. Each bush is laid in a hole so that the middle of the bush is above ground level.

Dividing the bush

There is a second way of breeding strawberry bushes - this is the division of the bush itself. This method is usually used for strawberry varieties such as renovation Strawberry. Since these varieties practically do not have a mustache.

At the end of the season, a young bush has several growth points. The bush should be carefully divided without damaging the leaves and roots. The selected seedlings should have the sturdiest and strongest roots, and not damaged leaves.

Planting strawberries using agrofibre and black film

Recently, gardeners have begun to use agrofibre or black dense film when planting strawberry bushes.

Advantages of the method

This method has several advantages.:

• Berries receive the greatest protection from pests.
• Moisture remains under agrofibre or film for a very long time.
• Protects well from frost.
• Weed does not grow under the films.
• After the rain, the berries are not dirty.

Process step by step

We calculate how much film we need, buy it and start laying agrofibre over the entire area of ​​the land plot.

1. The soil under the foil is prepared as described above. We fasten the edges of the film with stones or sprinkle it with earth.
2. Then we mark the places of planting of seedlings and make neat cuts crosswise.
3. Dig holes with your hand and lay seedlings. The cut should be small so that weeds do not break through.
4. Water it abundantly after planting. Do not water a little, this will lead to the appearance of fungus. D
5. For convenience, boards are placed on the film or fiber, on which it is easy and convenient to move, while the film will not be damaged.

In cases where we plant strawberries in open ground without a film, it is recommended to plant parsley between the rows to protect against slugs.

Strawberry bushes should be fed in a timely manner.

Conclusion

Now, not only experienced gardeners, but also every amateur knows almost all the intricacies of growing strawberry bushes.

Thanks to these techniques, you will be able to get a rich harvest every year of these unusual, aromatic berries. The strawberries should be replanted in the summer, around August after flowering.

During the winter period, it will take root firmly, and next season you will receive your very first harvest. It should be noted that strawberries are a very delicate berry. And if you follow all the rules of planting and care, on your site you can get a stable good harvest for many years.

Victoria, strawberries or garden strawberries (about the differences in names just below) are a fragrant messenger of the coming summer and the warm sun, the first portion of vitamins. It is believed that, having eaten enough of this berry at the beginning of summer, you can stock up on vitamins and antioxidants for a whole year. But to grow a tasty and bountiful harvest, you have to work hard. The plant is capricious and whimsical, its cultivation requires knowledge and hard work. And it all starts with the correct landing.

Confusion in names

The names "strawberries", "strawberries" and "victoria" are considered by some to be synonymous, while others are ready to defend their differences. If you go into biological details, you can see the characteristic differences between garden strawberries (which are grown in our gardens) with strawberries, which are extremely rare in cultural gardening. As for Victoria, this is just the established and common name for garden strawberries brought from the American continent. But, since the rules of agricultural technology of these horticultural crops basically the same, we will not emphasize the difference and talk about this culture as a single strawberry-strawberry family.

Victoria planting dates in the fall

You can start replanting Victoria in August and September. The timing is approximate, since it is highly dependent on regional climatic conditions, which can shift them in any direction. It is not only possible to transplant Victoria in September, but it is also preferable in middle latitudes and on Far East... In the southern regions (Ukraine, Moldova, Crimea, etc.), the planting dates may be postponed even to the end of October. And in the Urals and in regions located in more northern latitudes than the central part of Russia, it is necessary to complete the transplant in August or, in extreme cases, in the first decade of September.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is better to start transplanting garden strawberries in the fall. There are several reasons for this:

• The favorable period in the fall is more extended in time (this is 1-1.5 months), which is not only convenient, but also gives more chances to get into the favorable period according to the lunar calendar.
• Availability of large quantities planting material.
• Favorable weather conditions for rooting outlets.
• Significantly less weed growth.
• Harvesting the next year. After the spring planting, it is no longer necessary to wait for it in the current season.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

You can buy seedlings in specialized retail outlets, but you can take it from your own garden, if you are satisfied with their variety and yield. It is not recommended to buy strawberry seedlings from an unknown seller on the market, since sockets are often taken out for sale that are far from the best, and sometimes even reborn varieties that have lost their quality characteristics. Each seedling should have 3-4 healthy and always young leaves and roots no shorter than 10cm. The root collar must be at least 6 mm in diameter, root system- fibrous, and the leaves are compact, not very long.

The following procedure should be carried out immediately prior to planting. Mixture garden land and humus is diluted with water to the density of good sour cream, any growth stimulator is added to it (Zircon, Mikras, Epin, Kornevin). The roots are lowered into the resulting chatterbox and slightly dried, after which they can be planted.

Site selection, soil requirements, predecessors

Regardless of when Victoria is planted, in autumn or spring, the preparation of the plot should be given maximum attention. The soil should be fertile, capable of providing the culture with basic nutrition for at least 3-4 years. Requirements for acidity pH 5-6.5. The occurrence of groundwater should not be less than 60 cm to the ground surface.

The site is weeded well and checked for larvae colorado potato beetle and wireworm. If their presence is detected, it is recommended to pre-spill the soil with an insecticide solution (Bazudin, Confidor, Marshal are suitable). You can add ammonium nitrate instead. The recommendation especially applies to areas located in the immediate vicinity of woodlands.

The place for garden strawberries should be open to the sun, this is important condition, but at the same time it must be well protected from winds and drafts. The ideal location is the southwest side of the house with a slight slope of 2-3 degrees.

Another important factor is predecessors. The best of them are garlic, onions, legumes, some types of herbs (parsley, dill, celery), radishes, carrots, green manure. It is undesirable to plant berry bushes after cabbage, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, as well as after Compositae and buttercups. It is recommended to grow Victoria in the same place for no longer than 4 years.

It is absolutely pointless to move old bushes from place to place.

Soil preparation

Approximately 2 weeks before the intended planting, the soil is dug to the depth of the shovel with the introduction of humus or well-rotted manure. The norm is 10-20kg per square meter. It is also recommended to add potassium chloride and superphosphate to the soil for each 1m2 (15g and 30g, respectively). At high rate acidity is added and 4-6 kg of lime fluff is added. Immediately before planting, the soil is again loosened up to a depth of about 15 cm.

Agrotechnical planting

Choose a cloudy day or a quiet, windless evening. Furrows are made for each row, which are well moistened. It is convenient to make them using a hoe and a stretched cord. Victoria planting scheme is as follows: 15-20cm between seedlings with 60-80cm between rows. This density provides better wintering, good fruiting and ease of handling and collection. In the rows, the bushes will quickly close together, and the passages will remain free. Make sure that the center of the outlet is not covered with earth. The soil around the seedlings is well compressed for reliable rooting and is mulched with humus or peat.

How to get your own seedlings

After the end of fruiting, strong and healthy rosettes with antennae of the second year of life are selected from those that this time did not give a very bountiful harvest. Plastic cups with a substrate are buried in the ground, into which the first two tendrils are buried. Those that will grow further must be removed. By August or September, when the time for planting comes, the seedlings will be ready, with strong roots.

You should not choose berry bushes that have given a bountiful harvest this year, since they are less promising in terms of seedlings. One growing season can provide one thing: either a good harvest, or full-fledged seedlings.

Planting victoria on agrofibre

The use of black covering material helps not only to significantly reduce the cost of efforts for caring for Victoria, but also helps to increase the berry yield by about a third. This is a big topic with its own nuances, so we will only note the essence and the most important points of this agrotechnical technique. Increased protection against weeds and negative natural phenomena contributes to an increase in yield. Agrofibre replaces mulching, it is resistant to ultraviolet light, which inhibits photosynthesis and weed growth, but at the same time has good air and water permeability.

If you plan to use a covering material, you need to correctly calculate the width of the beds so that the joints do not fall in their middle. The calculation depends on the width of the agrofibre, taking into account an overlap of 20-30cm. Next, you should adhere to the following agricultural techniques.

1. A deep and thorough digging of the soil is carried out - next time it will be possible to do this only after a few years.
2. Organic fertilizers and mineral dressing paid in advance, 2-4 weeks in advance. It is not recommended to shorten this period.
3. A wire is harvested, which is divided into pieces not shorter than 50 cm, which then need to be bent in half to obtain studs for fastening.
4. Agrofibre is spread over a dedicated area, fixed with wire pins along the joint lines. Edges and corners require a more secure fit, for which it is used paving slabs, boards, metal rod, etc.
5. Paths are indicated, and optionally decorated with tiles or boards, along which it will subsequently be possible to walk. They are made in such a way that you can reach each bush with your hands.
6. Chalk marks are placed on the fiber in the places of future seedlings, after which a cruciform incision is made in these places (not a round hole!).
7. In the resulting slots, holes are made into which the seedlings are planted. It is a big mistake to cover the plot with agrofibre after planting the seedlings.
8. Each bush is sprinkled with earth at the base.

Important! Victoria doesn't like deep planting.

Care of Victoria planted in autumn

Further care is carried out with the main and only goal - to ensure the growth of a powerful root system, which will help to survive the winter and ensure the harvest next summer. Further recommendations are given for open planting (not under cover material).

Watering

For the first week, newly planted bushes require frequent watering, literally every other day, a maximum of two. As soon as the view of the aboveground part indicates that the roots are strong, watering should be halved, but make sure that the ground is constantly moist and loose. The water should not be cold.

Watering is carried out at the root, it is undesirable for water to fall on the leaves.

Top dressing

Young seedlings do not need feeding, and will not need it for another 2, or even 3 years. The fertilizers introduced during digging for this period will be quite enough.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Many pathogens and harmful insects settle for the winter in upper layers garden soil... To reduce the risk of infection, it is recommended to treat the newly planted bed. This is not done immediately, but when the seedlings take root well. The soil is loosened to a depth of 7-8 cm and treated with Karbofos solution heated to + 30C (3 tablespoons per bucket) or Bordeaux liquid. You can also use a copper oxychloride solution (1 s.l. per bucket).

Then everything is covered with foil on top for 3 hours. The procedure is done in exceptionally calm, windless weather, the film is not strongly pressed to the ground.

Pruning

There is no need to prune the leaves of a Victoria just planted in August or September. Moreover, the thicker the outlet grows by winter, the better. But, if she tries to release the whiskers, they can and should be removed immediately, since they take away from the plant the strength necessary to build up the root system.

Mulching

It is advisable to mulch the soil immediately, using peat, humus or sawdust for this. But on the eve of winter, the process will need to be repeated.

Preparation for wintering

In general, Victoria planted in autumn winters well, especially if the soil layer under it is mulched. It is necessary to take measures only in case of a frosty, snowless winter, and also in order to hold back the snow if there is not enough of it. To do this, straw or fallen leaves are poured onto the garden bed. You can also use spruce branches, sawdust, corn or sunflower stalks, etc. Layer thickness - about 5 cm.

When using foliage or other garden plant debris, be careful not to carry pests or pathogens with them.

Garden strawberries are considered one of the most unpretentious plants, many of its varieties are frost-resistant and not susceptible to disease. However, it gives juicy large fruits only in the first five years of growth, after which it is necessary to transplant strawberries.

The exact sign that speaks about the need for seating is the presence of a large number of rosettes around the main (uterine) bush. They take up most of the nutrients, reducing the amount of fruiting. But these same sockets can be planted in a new place and become full-fledged fruiting bushes.

Plants are transferred to a new bed in almost any month - from June to October. But in spring or autumn, that is, until the moment the fruits appear, it is optimal to do this.

The main goals of a regular transplant

The strawberry yield decreases after 3 years of growth in one place, and after 5–6 years, the loss of nutrients increases significantly due to the large number of outlets and the plant practically ceases to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that strawberries, located on one piece of soil for a long time, draws out the necessary trace elements and others from the soil nutrients... The depletion of the soil leads to the fact that the fruits become small, thinly planted, the number of new shoots decreases, and the leaves may begin to turn yellow.

Experienced gardeners recommend moving the bushes to a new location every 3-4 years, based on the volume of the crop and the appearance of the plant. If the berries become smaller, their number decreases in comparison with previous seasons, the strawberries look sick, old, the leaves turn yellow, a transplant is definitely needed.

Every year, buds appear on the stems that release antennae. Branches are used for reproduction. Each new season these stems "rise" upward, depleting the plant. During wintering, such a bush is more prone to freezing.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries

Strawberry bushes are transplanted in almost any season from the beginning of summer to the end of the fruiting season, which, depending on the variety, falls on September-October, as well as in spring. Transfer to a new location during flowering should be avoided as this can reduce yields.

It is easiest to replant strawberries in autumn - the bush has given all possible harvest, gradually enters a state of dormancy, preparing for wintering. However, it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant will take root. If strawberries are transferred to a new bed in spring, it soon becomes clear which bushes have taken root, and the approximate volume of the future harvest is determined. We must focus on winter hardiness, strength of roots and growth rate.

In the spring

It is better to transplant strawberries in spring at the end of March and April, in the middle lane - until the end of May, in the northern regions - in the last decade of May and until the first half of June. General rules for any climatic zones- when transplanting, the soil must completely thaw, and the air temperature must be above + 10 ° C for several days. Plants tolerate light frosts well, so you will need to study the weather forecast.

Spring transplantation is possible only by reproduction of the bush. The separation of shoots makes it possible to get the first, albeit small, harvest already this year.

A method of growing seedlings from seeds is also used, but this option is more laborious: the seeds do not always give shoots, and the planted seedlings often do not take root, since they are very demanding on climatic conditions.

Summer

V summer period it is best to transfer the bushes to a new bed in late July and early August. it optimal time for middle lane and northern latitudes. By this time, on the bushes with berries appears a large number of new seedlings, they are strong enough to grow into a full-fledged bush.

No frost for at least 2-3 months after transplanting, cool, humid weather at the onset of the autumn season will allow strawberries to quickly grow in next year, take root well and grow until the first cold snap. This makes it possible to get a bountiful harvest at the beginning of the next season. In summer and early autumn, it is convenient to propagate plants by dividing, which is important for varieties that do not give tendrils.

When starting planting in the summer months, you must carefully monitor the weather. If worth heat air, no rain, planted bushes may not take root.

Breeding varieties tolerate moving to a new place worse, may not adapt before the onset of cold weather. For them, landing in the spring is preferable.

In autumn

If the strawberries are transplanted correctly in the fall, they will yield a bountiful harvest next year. These terms are optimal for southern latitudes, where temperatures are above zero until November. In addition, it is in autumn that the soil becomes moist, the air temperature decreases, but there are still enough sunny days for good growth of outlets.

A strawberry garden transplanted in the fall will survive frost well. It is necessary to transfer the bushes 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the shoots have time to take root and get stronger.

Terms of transplanting remontant varieties

Such strawberries, which produce two crops in one season, are best transferred to a new growing location in May or late July, when frost is not expected. You can propagate this variety with a mustache, dividing or growing seedlings from seeds. The most in a simple way reproduction by young shoots is considered, but this method does not allow for a harvest in the first year.

Species repair strawberries also several, some give new shoots, while others do not. Mustacheless varieties have several advantages - they are more resistant to diseases, unpretentious to the place of seedling and weather conditions, they ripen even in darkened beds, do not require transplanting for up to 5-6 years without reducing the amount of harvest.

How to transplant strawberries

The simplest strawberry seedling methods suitable even for novice summer residents are dividing the bush and propagating by young shoots (mustache). Growing seedlings of this plant from seeds is more laborious, requires certain skills and suitable temperature conditions, but it makes it possible to try the first harvest during the planting season.

By dividing the bush

Most often, by dividing the bush, plants that do not have antennae are propagated. But this method is suitable for almost any variety. This option has several advantages:

• the rooting rate of seedlings is up to 90%;
• transplanting can be performed after harvest, that is, in the fall;
• it is possible to update the beds all season from April to October;
• yields are increased by choosing healthy, strong rosettes that have already borne fruit this season.

First, select the strongest healthy mother bushes. Then dig out a rosette, remove dry leaves, clean the ground from the roots. Place the plants in water and separate the bush into separate horns. Cut off the dried roots, remove the peduncles.

In humid regions, it makes sense to cut off half a leaf from each plant to reduce moisture evaporation after planting.

After that, the bushes are sent for growing in pots. Fill a container 8-10 cm in diameter with soil and peat in a 1: 1 ratio, place a bush in the center, sprinkle with soil, water and plant in a greenhouse after 1, 5 months. After 3-6 weeks depending on appearance plants, transplant the strawberries into a permanent bed. For each square meter, 5 kg of humus is added, the acidic earth must be balanced dolomite flour(0.5 kg per square meter).

Rooted mustache

From young antennae, a transplant is carried out when the soil is sufficiently moistened, the temperature does not rise more than +25 degrees. This method can be used in spring and summer as well as early fall.

The largest number of whiskers appears from mid-July to September. They are already resistant to frost, the seedlings quickly take root in the soil and are able to survive even cold snowy winter.

You can plant a mustache in separate containers and open ground. Shoots are introduced into the soil after preliminary loosening. In pots or jars, soil is used with the addition of fertilizers. Rosettes are cut from the bush 2 weeks before transplanting.

For strawberries, choose sufficiently lighted, windless beds. The plant develops the fastest after legumes and nightshade crops, they are considered the best predecessors.

Preparatory work

The quality of the preparation of strawberries for transplanting to a new place determines what kind of harvest the gardener can get next year and whether new seedlings will take root at all.

Site selection and preparation of beds

A piece of land with a slight slope will be optimal for strawberries. The main thing is that the bed is protected from the cold wind, the illumination is oriented to the east or west. Shady area not suitable for this plant, places with high humidity soil. Also, do not plant bushes on hills, where there is high dryness of the soil and rapid evaporation of water.

Unsuitable soil is considered to be peaty, clayey, podzolic and acidic. It is necessary to prepare the soil two weeks before the start of the transplant, and if it is carried out in the spring, then the bed should be formed before the onset of cold weather in the previous fall.

After digging, fertilizing is carried out with compost, manure, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and abundant watering is carried out. The ridge should not exceed 50 cm in width, the distance between the planting holes is at least 30 cm.

Selection and processing of planting material

The transplant is performed on a cool, sunny day. An hour before planting in the soil, the garden bed is watered. Better to use a humus solution at room temperature. For two hours, the roots are soaked in various infusions:

• ready-made growth stimulant;
• herbal starter based on legumes, nettle and double superphosphate;
• garlic solution.

For transplantation, you can take bushes on which there are at least three healthy and strong leaves, the root system is not dried, its length does not exceed 12 cm. There should be no rot on the roots. If they are longer than normal, prune with scissors.

When transplanting with antennae, strong, developed rosettes are chosen, in the spring the ovaries are completely cut off. For 2 weeks, it is necessary to divide the shoot with scissors, which connects the uterine bush and the rooted rosette.

Planting technology

It is necessary to transplant garden strawberries in summer and autumn according to a certain scheme:

1. Bushes are planted in a prepared bed at a minimum distance of 30 cm from each other. When planting closer, they will not have enough space for rooting, there may be a lack of nutrients for good nutrition.
2. If you are transplanting with outlets, do not dig them out in advance so that the root system does not begin to dry out. Transfer the tendril immediately to the prepared hole.
3. Pour water into a small hole, place a bush, sprinkle with soil, gently press with your hands and immediately pour abundantly.
4. In hot weather, the dug out rosette or part of the bush, if you use the dividing method, must be placed in a solution that consists of manure, clay and plain water... Top dressing will help the root system to recover.

With a spring transplant, the depth and landing pattern is different:

1. The air temperature during work must be at least 6 degrees Celsius.
2. Dig up the bed, free it from debris and roots of previous crops, feed and moisten.
3. For uniform illumination of future plants, choose an area directed to the east-west. Ground water should be located below one and a half meters.
4. Keep the beds small, maximum 50 cm wide and 20 cm high.
5. The day before planting, moisten the soil, and before starting work, pour sand about 10 cm in height into each hole, fill it with warm water.
6. Place the dug out rosette, sprinkle it with soil, after straightening the roots, pour at least 3 liters of water at room temperature into each hole.
7. Apply peat or humus top dressing around the bush.

If the weather is hot at the time of the work, darken the area for several days before the bush takes root.

When using any transplanting method, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions in your area - how often precipitation falls, how long is the warm season, when, on average, the first frosts occur. Planted rosettes or parts of a bush, as well as seedlings obtained from seeds, must grow stronger and take root in order to bear fruit abundantly.