Parts for a significant increase in combustion and heat capacity
Pipes in a waste oil oven are not the only elements required. It is important to ensure an optimal long-term combustion process. For a furnace that runs on waste oil, a special suspended weight is ideal. As the fuel burns, it will press the load against the grate by its gravity. A metal pancake with a hole can be used as such a load.

Stone can be used as elements providing heat capacity.

Here you can note the following execution options:

1. If the furnace is running on waste oil, a lining with special refractory plates is optimal. It is ideal in that the metal body wears out much less, and the volume of the firebox is also preserved;
2. Another method is based on laying bricks on all walls. As a result, you can get a furnace that runs on waste oil;
3. There are drawings of oil ovens that have an open box in their upper part. A stone or brick is laid in it.
4. Very often a potbelly stove, running on oil, is designed in such a way that there will be a net on both sides of it to firmly fix the stones.

Summing up

This article has described the main points for the manufacture of ovens that run on oil. If you know all the main points of their manufacture, you can quickly make a potbelly stove yourself.

These are just the highlights, but there are also numerous additional parts such as feet, carrying handles and a protective shield. These details usually reflect the drawings, so everything will be as easy and simple as possible.

Very often, it is the stove stove that is used to heat the garage. And you can do it yourself, but you don't need to spend money for this. It is enough to look for unnecessary metal parts in the bins.

Advantages and disadvantages of a potbelly stove for a garage

The stove-stove is considered to be the most in a practical way heating in winter. This is a small structure, which is practically portable, capable of heating any room in terms of area, regardless of the temperature outside and others. climatic conditions... This is its main advantage. However, in modern conditions a stove-stove is used exclusively for heating outbuildings, for example, a garage. And this is due to big amount disadvantages:

• the stove cools down quickly, which means that in order to maintain a constant temperature in the room, it must always burn;
• uneconomical for the same reason;
• is fire hazardous, therefore, when installing it, you need to take care of protecting the nearby wall and floor.

However, its omnivorous nature allows you to save a little on the purchase of fuel, especially if you take into account the almost 100% efficiency of such a device.

The potbelly stove has a special design, thanks to which you can get high efficiency.

Design and principle of operation

The peculiarity of the stove-stove is that it does not require the construction of a foundation and the arrangement of a capital chimney. In most cases, it is because of this that it is chosen for use in the garage. This room does not always have electricity or a gas pipeline, which means that a stove-stove is the only solution to the heating problem.

Potbelly stove does not require the construction of a foundation

This design is metal box with a door and a pipe that is brought out of the heated room.

The pipe can also serve as a heated element, if it is slightly modified. Make it stepped, not straight, which will allow hot air to linger a little in it.

Calculation of the main parameters (with drawings and dimensions)

The high efficiency of a stove-stove can be obtained only if all the basic parameters of the structure are correctly calculated.

Pipe

In this case, the diameter of this element is very important. The throughput of the chimney should be less than the capacity of the furnace, which is the main distinctive feature potbelly stoves. This will allow warm air do not immediately leave the stove, but linger in it and heat the surrounding air.

It is very important to make accurate calculation for her. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the furnace. In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the furnace in liters. For example, the volume of the combustion part is 40 liters, which means that the diameter of the chimney should be about 106 mm.

If the installation of grate is provided in the stove, then the height of the firebox is considered without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

It is very important to make the hot gases not cool down, but completely burn out. In addition, the fuel must be combusted by partial pyrolysis, which requires an extremely high temperature. A metal screen, which is located on three sides of the stove, will help to achieve this effect. It should be placed at a distance of 50–70 mm from the walls of the stove, so that most of the heat will return to the stove. This air movement will give the necessary high fever, and will save you from fire.

Red brick stove screen is able to accumulate heat

Litter

It must be there. There are two reasons for this:

• some of the heat is radiated downward;
• the floor on which the stove is standing heats up, which means there is a risk of fire.

Litter solves both of these problems at once. It can be used as a metal sheet with an offset of 350 mm (ideally 600 mm) beyond the contour of the furnace itself. There are more modern materials, which do an excellent job with this task, for example, a sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard, at least 6 mm thick.

For the litter under the stove, you can use an asbestos sheet

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes go into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

• the vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped with heat-insulating material;
• hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not protected by heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be brought out into the street

Photo gallery: diagrams of a potbelly stove device for a garage

On the diagram, you need to indicate all the exact measurements. The chimney must be brought out to the street The potbelly stove can be round or square The volume of the firebox depends on the presence of grates The potbelly stove scheme depends on the material used

Required materials and tools

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands you will need:

• welding equipment (or any other welding machine, if you have relevant experience);
• chisel;
• soft cloth (you can use a rag);
• hammer;
• sandpaper (fine-grained).

The list of materials depends on which container the stove will be made from. This can be a gas bottle or a milk bottle. If you have some experience with metal, then a potbelly stove can be made from sheet material... However, you definitely need to take care of the availability:

• refractory bricks;
• steel pipes;
• metal wire;
• grate bars (in some cases, you can do without them);
• a branch pipe with a weather vane;
• door hinges.

Preparatory work before assembling the oven: choosing a place

Using a potbelly stove in the garage, like any other heater, requires compliance with safety rules. First of all, this concerns the place of installation of the device. Ideally, the corner of the garage is suitable for this, which is located near the walls opposite to the door of the room.

Remember not to put the stove in the immediate vicinity of the car. The distance between them should be at least 1.5 m. There should be a similar distance from objects that are flammable, for example, from barrels of gasoline.

Walls near the stove must be protected with fireproof material

The distance from the stove to the wall depends on what material the garage is built from. If it is a tree, then there should be at least 1 m from the stove to the wall. Additionally, it is recommended to protect them with asbestos plates.

DIY step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove for a garage

The method of making a stove-stove depends on its shape and the material used.

Classic stove-potbelly stove

To manufacture such a structure, you must have certain skills in working with welding machine... All work consists of several steps:

1. Make 5 blanks from sheet metal.

   Blanks must be cut from sheet metal

2. Weld the side surfaces to the bottom. Make sure that they are located strictly vertically relative to each other, which will help the use of a level or construction square.
3. Weld on the back wall.
4. The internal space is conditionally divided into three parts: the smoke circulation, the furnace part and the ash pan. Install a grate in the last two. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm, the corners must be welded to the entire length. For the grating itself, it is recommended to use 25–30 mm thick sheet steel from which strips must be cut. The distance between the plates should be 5 cm. The rods themselves must be welded to two rods, which give rigidity to the lattice.
5. From above, it is necessary to weld two metal rods, which are needed to position the reflector (the sheet that separates the firebox and the smoke circulation), the reflector must be positioned in such a way that a channel for smoke is formed.

   The grate and stove are optional elements.

6. Weld the stove cap, not forgetting about the hole for the pipe. Cut and weld the top link. Do the same with a narrower part.
7. Make a door. It is recommended to do it over the entire width of the stove so that the grate and reflector can be removed without problems during cleaning and repairs. Do not forget that the door must be equipped with a handle, latch and curtains.
8. Install the structure on the legs, which can be made of a metal pipe with a diameter of 2-3 cm. You should not make them too high. 8-10 cm will be enough. If desired, you can equip them with bolts, which will allow you to adjust the height.
9. Make a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. For its outlet, you need to make a hole in the wall of the appropriate size. The pipe consists of three parts, which are interconnected at an angle of 45 °.

   The pipe must not have horizontal parts

10. At the lower end of the chimney, it is necessary to make a rotary damper. You can also make it from sheet metal, but the diameter should be slightly smaller than the hole in the pipe. It is also necessary to provide for a handle that would move this damper.
11. The pipe must be fixed on a sleeve 15–20 cm in size, which is welded along the hole to the top cover.
12. Install the stove, adjust its height.

    When using sheet metal, you can make a stove of any size

Video: original do-it-yourself garage stove for a garage

Milk can oven

It is quite easy to make such a furnace, you just need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

Video: stove stove for a garage from a gas cylinder

Features of operation

During the operation of a homemade stove-stove, it is very important to observe certain rules... This is necessary not only for the safety of its use, but also for long term service. These rules are:

• it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between the walls of the furnace itself and the walls of the room (a distance of 50 cm is considered ideal);
• the chimney must be brought out to the street, in no case must it be paired with ventilation system garage (very often this desire arises when the stove is installed in the basement of the garage), since this is the only way to guarantee sufficient traction for full combustion;
• places where the pipe is taken out into the street must be insulated with asbestos or other non-combustible material;
• it is possible to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove by insulating the room itself;
• next to the potbelly stove, it is necessary to install a box with sand and a fire extinguisher, since this is required by fire safety rules.

How to improve oven performance

This oven has one significant drawback - it cools down very quickly. However, it is very easy to fix this with a brick screen that is installed on three sides of the structure. This will allow you to accumulate heat and give it to the room even after the stove stops burning.

It should be located at a distance of 5–7 cm from the walls of the stove, in no case right next to it. In this case, you need to take care of the presence of ventilation holes.

The screen should not be close to the walls of the stove

Construction with brick screen will weigh much more than an ordinary metal stove-stove, therefore it is recommended to first build an individual foundation.

In some cases, it may be necessary to install an individual foundation. It's very simple to make it:

1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep. All other dimensions depend on the dimensions of the stove itself and the screen.
2. Fill the bottom of the pit with sand (usually it takes about 3-4 buckets), after which it needs to be tamped. Cover the sand with a 10-15 cm layer of crushed stone, also tamp it.
3. Level the filling, pour in the cooked cement mortar... Leave it for a day (it is possible for a few, the foundation will only benefit from this).
4. Cover the base with several layers of roofing material.
5. Now you can start laying the screen on the brick floor. In this case, the first two rows should be laid out with continuous masonry directly on the roofing material. In rows 3-4, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps. Continue continuous laying.
6. It is recommended to make the screen without top overlap.

How to properly clean a stove stove

The design features of such a stove make it possible to clean it quite rarely.

This is one of the advantages of a potbelly stove. However, from time to time, the chimney must be cleaned of soot residues. For this, you can use a special brush. You can do it yourself. Attach a cylindrical brush to the rope. It is recommended to take a brush with plastic or iron bristles. In this case, you need to pick it up in such a way that it squeezes into the narrow chimney pipe without any problems.

The cleaning process itself takes place in the following sequence:

1. Close the opening of the firebox and plug it with a rag.
2. Make several movements with the brush (you need to stop when the brush began to move without resistance). Wait.
3. Remove all food that has gone down to the sump.

All this must be done extremely carefully, since the chimney of the stoves is not very strong.

A homemade potbelly stove in the garage can be a reliable and effective assistant in the fight against winter frosts. And if you do it yourself, then the efficiency of the device can be increased many times.

Often, homeowners prefer to collect simple and useful homemade products from scrap and unnecessary materials, rather than buying ready-made ones. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A potbelly stove can be made with your own hands, and, if desired, modernized to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly order different options homemade ovens, drawings and diagrams are shown.

Also, methods of improving a home-made potbelly stove are analyzed in detail, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

Exactly combustible material, which has different temperatures and the nature of combustion, dictates the principles of creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove can be different, it often depends on the availability suitable material... It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from a grate (it can be welded from fittings), under which ash will accumulate. You can also arrange hob... It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on both sides of it.

It's good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them on or install the oven on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a water heater, as it is also called "Titan". To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood-fired boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in summer time just one bookmark in a small firebox.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a sheet of metal and welded.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter must be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a potbelly stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they slowly smolder, emitting thermal energy gradually and providing warmth for a long time.

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works on the principle of long burning. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The base of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. A hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut in its middle for a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the sides of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. The curtains are welded to the cut out piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container, an outlet is made to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted into the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and tamped. The cone is carefully removed by scrolling, a lid is put on the barrel

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, the sawdust will be in inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve for afterburning gases and increasing the heating area. In this version, the flue gas outlet is arranged at the bottom of the stove.

How can you improve a potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a mass positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is incapable of storing heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

Besides, a large number of heat escapes through the chimney into the atmosphere, without benefit. That is why the work on improving the stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a stove-stove has many modernized designs that allow:

• save fuel;
• increase the efficiency of the stove;
• increase the heat capacity;
• reduce the frequency of fuel loading.

The most common methods of increasing the efficiency of the stove are creating a slow combustion mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing a heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

It is also possible to improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan, which will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called "Buleryan", but besides it, there are many more various designs made by handicraft. Recommended to watch detailed master class for homemade production.

It is possible to increase the heat transfer time if the oven is lined with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? On our website there is a detailed do-it-yourself manual with diagrams and drawings.

Option # 1 - stove with increased fuel loading

This model is designed to increase efficiency and burn time. A horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs is taken as a basis and supplemented with a cassette made of a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should drop 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make the cylinder easy to install and remove, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when they are installed on the stove, they can immediately sink onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

1. The lower part of the wood, having sunk on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, which is in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but it will dry out under the influence of hot smoke.
2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the wood gradually sinks into the firebox.
3. Hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
4. At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in stoves such as "Bubafonya", "Filipinka".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises- workshops, greenhouses, other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model of the heating device, coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often, they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

• A combustion chamber is prepared from an available cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for a chimney.
• From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), cut out a circle slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
• A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the pipe used for the rod).
• Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
• A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston in the lowered state rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, there will be a draft in it, it will start to smoke.
• Next, they construct a cover that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it, suitable for the piston tube

It is possible to further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the intake of air from the street into the furnace. Thus, the heated air from the room will not escape into the chimney.

Option # 3 - furnace with secondary combustion "Filipinka"

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for the manufacture of a potbelly stove is as follows:

1. The cylinders are prepared for operation by releasing gas residues from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the grinder can provoke an explosion of gas, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make the door), a hole is cut out for installing the chimney.
3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not abut against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
4. At the exit of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for the installation of the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
7. The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant bundle is wound between the rings, the connection is fixed with screws.
8. The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door to the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

With quite a bit of effort and ingenuity, you can easily build a compact stove for a summer residence with your own hands, and we will help you figure out the details of construction and take into account all the necessary little things. If you strictly follow our instructions, you can end up with a pretty cute stove, such as in the photo below:

This invention of metal has been known for a very long time, but today it has not lost its relevance. The dacha plots loved by many are not always supplied with gas, and electricity is not cheap today. Spending spring and autumn days outside the city, when the nights are cold, willy-nilly, you think about making a heating device that can warm the dacha room and boil the kettle. So such an invention of mankind as a stove-stove comes to the rescue.

This is all the more important if there is a forest or a large planting of trees near your site, where you can find dry branches - you will always be provided with environmentally friendly fuel.

Its design can be very different - from very simple or more complex. To know what potbelly stoves are, and what they can be made of, you need to consider several options.

Such a stove can be made from any metal containers or thick-walled metal. Naturally, you will definitely need the tools to help you cope with this difficult but creative job. For the manufacture of a potbelly stove, an old gas cylinder or two cylinders are well suited, depending on the model of the furnace, two hundred liter barrel, pipes with a diameter of 50 cm or just sheets of metal 3-5 mm thick and a corner.

• This potbelly stove model is made of metal barrel, to which the legs are welded.
• Then a part of the bottom is cut out in the form of a rectangle and planted on on the hinges - this is how the firebox door turned out.
• At the end of the container upside down is arranged round hole, to which the chimney is welded.
• At the bottom of the stove, it is necessary to lay grate so that it does not burn out and the stove will keep warm for as long as possible.
• A thick steel wire is welded on top of the barrel so that you can put a pot or kettle - this way you get a hob. This is the simplest and affordable way make a potbelly stove.

Another model that can be made from both a pipe and a barrel. It is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but the efficiency of this stove will also be much higher.

• Cuts are made on the container and areas are removed from which the doors for the firebox and blower will be made. Hinges are welded on and doors with shutters are hung on them.
• Stands for the grate are arranged inside the container.
• If the stove is made of a pipe with a large diameter, the bottom is welded to it, and the legs are fixed to it. Its top is also brewed - a kind of hob is obtained, in which a round hole is made for the chimney.
• If the stove is arranged from a barrel, it already has a bottom and a hob. Legs and a chimney are also welded to it.

A pipe for making a potbelly stove is preferable to a barrel, since its service life will be longer. The efficiency of a furnace made of a pipe with thicker steel walls is much higher than that of a potbelly stove from a barrel.

Such a stove is perfect for a summer residence, but just like any potbelly stove, during its operation, it requires compliance with safety measures and isolation from combustible objects, wooden floors and walls.

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a gas cylinder. He does not have hob, which reduces the function of the stove to one - heating the room.

• In the bottom of the future stove, holes are drilled to discharge ash into an ash pan welded under an improvised grate, which is made of metal sheet. The ash pan also plays the role of a blower - a small door is arranged to close it. Further, the legs are fixed to the bottom of the potbelly stove using welding.
• From the bottom of the cylinder, which has now become the front wall of the furnace, a part is also cut out that will serve as a door, then it is installed on the welded hinges. A pipe is welded on the opposite side of the firebox. It can be installed on top of the cylinder or located at the back of the oven.

This is also a fairly simple design of a potbelly stove, which can be done independently.

Particularly convenient - the wide hob

Another version of a stove-stove from a gas cylinder is done as follows:

• Its upper part is cut off, where there will be a door, and a side part for installing the hob.
• Next, the legs are welded to the future stove, and the door is installed.
• A round hole is cut in the hob for the chimney.
• It is best to make holes in the bottom of the furnace and provide an ash pan.
• For safe operation, the potbelly stove must be installed on a non-combustible material, and if the walls of the building are wooden, then one cannot do without their isolation either.

This model is quite simple in design and is well suited for use on summer cottage or in the garage. Hob has a sufficient area so that a kettle and a saucepan or frying pan can be placed on it at the same time.

You can also complicate the task somewhat, while increasing the efficiency of your product. So, for a summer residence with their own hands, they also make from two cylinders, as, for example, shown in the attached video:

Video - The process of creating a potbelly stove with your own hands

More difficult option potbelly stoves from a piece of metal pipe, in the lower part, to which a lattice is fixed in the form of a bottom.

The upper part is a circle cut from a sheet of metal, a hole is made in it, then a chimney pipe is welded into it. This whole structure is embedded in a brick box folded from four to five rows, which will act as a blower. Its height is calculated according to the width of the blower door. The stove is installed permanently, the chimney can be led out through the wall or roof.

There is also such an option as a potbelly stove that runs on waste oil, which is poured into the lower tank and ignited. This stove has several disadvantages - these are then, what she is able to warm a very small room, and then, what its operation can lead to odors from fuel combustion. It should be noted right away that this option is more suitable for a garage or utility room than for living quarters, but you need to take note of it, since a garage may also be present at the summer cottage.

• The necessary elements are cut out of the iron sheet - (the shape can be round or rectangular), and from them the fuel tank is made.
• Two holes are cut at the top of the tank for the pipe and for refueling. The second should have a sliding cover.
• The legs are welded to the resulting tank.
• V big hole a pipe is welded with small round slots through which air gets inside.
• Then the upper tank is made - a secondary combustion chamber, which is welded to a pipe with slots.
• In the upper tank, the lid must be removable, and there must be a hole in it for the chimney that goes out into the street.

After complete assembly, you can start testing this project of yours.

This model of a potbelly stove is a good choice for using it in the country. The neat shape makes it suitable for any suburban interior. It will help not only warm the room, but also prepare food, since it has a sufficiently large hob. Everything in the design is very well thought out, including the size of the outer surfaces and the firebox, in which there is enough space to fill it with firewood. These speech qualities will quickly heat up a cold room.

• For manufacturing, you will need sheets of thick metal 3-5 mm, a corner and a pipe for the chimney.
• First, all parts of the structure are prepared according to a previously prepared scheme.
• The planes are connected with metal corners by welding - they will also serve as legs for the stove. From the lower end of the legs, it is necessary to strengthen metal plates, about 10 × 10 cm for greater stability.
• The firebox should be separated from the ash pan grate-grate... Further, the doors of the firebox and the blower are fixed on the hinges.
... In terms of form and materials, it seems to be not much different from the previous model, but its internal design is somewhat different. This helps the stove cool down much longer and give off more heat to the room, rather than letting it out into the chimney. Two metal plates, which are fixed in the upper part of the stove near the chimney, help to achieve such performance. They create obstacles for the rapid release of hot air directly into the pipe. One of the plates is welded to the front inner part of the stove, the second to the inner rear wall. Thus, the created "labyrinth" waiting for the combustion products forces them to bend around these plates, and the gases are afterburned in the created upper chambers. A potbelly stove of this type can remain hot for up to 11-12 hours. Moreover, the hob has a removable burner lid, which will quickly heat the water in the kettle.

The efficiency of such a potbelly stove reaches 70%, the average heat transfer is 1360 Kcal / h. The hob heats up to 150-160 degrees, the side panel heats up to 100-110 degrees.

There is no need to doubt that a stove stove will come in handy at a summer cottage - it is nice to sit near it in rainy weather or on a cold evening, listening to the kettle boil on the stove. If you have the opportunity and skill, be sure to make it yourself - thereby you will save enough a large amount of money.

Heating technical rooms is often a real problem. Electricity is expensive, leading to high heating costs. The best way out is to use alternative energy sources. This can be firewood, coal, anthracite, and more.

For burning solid fuel ovens of various formats are used. One of them is a potbelly stove, which is extremely simple and cheap.

In this review, we'll talk:

• About the features of the stoves-burzhuik;
• About the materials required for their assembly;
• O step by step assembly potbelly stoves.

The modernization of the stove will also be considered, which will help increase its efficiency. The article will be interesting - read and get acquainted.

What is a stove stove

Potbelly stoves have been known among our compatriots for a very long time. They gained their popularity due to their extreme simplicity. A simple metal box with a door and a blower - and the simplest version of the stove is already ready. Considering the ingenuity of our people, this world has seen many of the most diverse bourgeoisie, delighting their owners with the coveted warmth. Let's see what you can make such a stove from:

You can make a stove stove not only from a used safe or a well-worn gas cylinder, but also simply by welding several sheets of durable metal together.

• From an old gas bottle - great option, it remains only to find the cylinder itself (you get a horizontal or vertical oven). Plump modifications are suitable here, as thin and tall oxygen cylinders too narrow;
• From an old flask - surely someone had such a thing lying around in the garage or in the shed. There is already a door, it remains only to attach a chimney;
• From old barrel- they often make homemade stoves of long burning, since the capacity of the barrels allows you to organize a large combustion chamber;
• There is no need to throw the old man out of the old safe, it will still serve.

Homemade stove stoves can also be made of sheet metal - for this you need to arm yourself with suitable tools.

The potbelly stove device is extremely simple. Its basis is a kind of capacious container, which plays the role of a combustion chamber. A pipe is removed from its upper or rear part, to which a chimney is attached. In the front part, two doors are organized (less often one) - fuel is loaded through the large one, and ash is removed through the small one. The internal space is divided by a metal grate through which air is supplied - through the useless ash formed during the burning of wood is removed.

The lower door at the same time acts as a blower - by adjusting the degree of its opening, you regulate the intensity of combustion of the flame and the temperature in the room.

The dimensions of the stove can be very different, for example, 250x450x450 mm (WxDxH). A gas cylinder will make a bigger and more efficient stove. Most big size will be near the stove from a barrel - after all, the internal volume of 150-200 liters contains great amount firewood. You can make a unit of almost any size - you don't even have to bother with the exact observance of the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Scope of the burzhuikas

These simplest stoves are in great demand. For their work, they use firewood, coal, coke, wood waste and many other types of fuel, pleasing with their simplicity and stability of work. Such a stove can be put in a garage - it will take up a minimum of space, but will provide the room with pleasant warmth. If you have a large supply of firewood or access to a cheap source of solid fuel, feel free to build a long-burning stove.

Wood is the simplest, cheapest and most widely available type of fuel for stoves. However, its consumption is poor.

A mini potbelly stove can be used to heat a barn or a household utility room that does not have heating. Agree, doing something in winter is not so comfortable here - teeth chattering and muscles cramp. And with the stove, things immediately go well - just have time to throw up the wood so as not to freeze.

Long-burning stove stoves are useful not only for the garage, but also for any other premises, including residential ones - these can be temporary buildings, summer cottages, poultry houses, premises for keeping livestock and much more. In general, the area of ​​their application is huge. They are most in demand in settlements and villages where there is no gas, but it is necessary to somehow heat residential and non-residential buildings.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's see what are good home-made stoves made by folk craftsmen:

• Cheapness - most of the materials can be found for free or given a mere penny for them;
• Omnivorous - in fact, any solid fuel can burn in a stove;
• Simple construction - if we look at the drawings, we will not find anything complicated in them;
• Possibility of cooking - for this, the stove stoves are equipped with cooking holes with lids;
• Ease of operation - provided there is a good chimney, the stove will work properly and without fumes in the whole room.

Unfortunately, heating with a potbelly stove has its drawbacks:

• Low efficiency of the stove - without proper modernization, most of the heat will fly into the pipe;
• Not the most solid appearance - although some craftsmen make real works of art out of bourgeois;
• High temperature of the case - is fraught with burns;
• High fuel consumption - in order for the stove to retain heat for a long time, without requiring the burning of tons of firewood, you will have to go to tricks.

Despite some shortcomings, simple wood-fired stoves are still in demand among those who need heat in the absence of a gas main.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove is made surprisingly quickly. First you need to decide what material it will be made of. Prepare the following tools:

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove can have the most intricate and pretentious look. Show your imagination and you can get a unique thing, the second of which you will not find in the world.

• Grinder (angle grinder);
• Welding machine;
• Sandpaper and file for processing metal edges;
• Tape measure for measuring dimensions;
• Powerful drill and matching drill bits.

Let's see how to cook a potbelly stove with good heat transfer for a summer cottage or garage from an iron barrel.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

The simplest option is a potbelly stove from a large barrel (150-200 liters). It needs to be supplemented with grate bars, doors and a chimney. We start the manufacture of the stove with the construction of a reliable non-combustible base. The best option- put a small brickwork, on which the barrel itself will stand... It will take several days to make it. After that, we proceed to further work.

In the front wall of our stove, the stove should be cut rectangular hole under the loading door - use a metal jigsaw for this. The resulting piece of metal will act as a door for us - we attach a rotating lock, handle and hinges to it. After that, we weld the second part of the hinges to the barrel. Weld on the opposite side metal loop, in which constipation will fit.

In the lower part it is necessary to make an ash pan with one more door. We allocate 10-15% of the total volume for it. We make the door as described above, but it should be narrower - ash is scooped out through it, it also serves as a blower. The optimum height is 40-50 mm. Next, we start making grates:

• Cut off the top cover at the barrel;
• We make a grate from segments metal pipes(you should get a circle with long slots);
• We weld the grate with inside drums, between the loading door and the ash pan door.

An old can or flask is also a great option. By using it, you free yourself from the need to weld the loading door.

We make a hole in the lid with a diameter of 100 mm, weld a small piece of pipe of the same diameter here - this will be a chimney hole. Next, we weld the lid into place. Our potbelly stove is ready, all that remains is to attach a chimney to it and you can start testing - load the firewood and try to light the flame.

We have made with you a long-burning stove with our own hands - it has an unusually large combustion chamber. Please note that you can make a brewing hole in the top cover - its diameter is 100-150 mm. Instead of a barrel, you can easily use a gas cylinder or a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. Remember that a potbelly stove from a pipe and a cylinder must have a sufficiently large diameter (at least 350-400 mm).

If necessary, you can make a similar potbelly stove in a horizontal design - you just need to slightly change its design. The rest of the assembly principle does not change.

The most efficient stove is a pyrolysis potbelly stove, afterburning the remnants of combustible gases and emitting a large amount of heat in comparison with other stoves. There is no need to think that it will be a complex unit. Making a potbelly stove of this type will take you 20 minutes more time than a conventional unit without pyrolysis. Let's see how it is produced.

The unit is welded from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. The use of thin iron does not make much sense - the stove will turn out to be too thin, heat will bend it, and in the end it will be finished off by corrosion. So find steel that is thick enough so you don't have to make a new stove every heating season.

We need to cut out seven pieces of metal (the thickness of the iron is 3 mm):

The main advantage of using sheet metal is that you can make a stove of any size and volume.

• Two pieces measuring 450x450 mm are the side walls;
• Four pieces measuring 450x250 mm are the front, back, top and bottom walls;
• One piece measuring 440x240 mm - this will be the grate;
• Two pieces measuring 244x350 mm - these will be the internal partitions.

Thus, we will have a Loginov oven with two internal partitions to increase efficiency. The same partitions will be responsible for pyrolysis.

In the front wall, we make two doors - in accordance with the instructions described above. Next, we weld a metal box from all the pieces without a top cover. The next stage is the making of the grate. To do this, we take a metal sheet and make many holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm in it. We fix the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom of the stove. Next, we weld on the partitions, placing them at a height of 60 and 120 mm from the top cover.

On the back surface we make a couple of small holes and weld thin metal tubes (10-15 mm in diameter) into them. They should be located above the lower partition, going towards the front wall. Their length is about 150 mm - secondary air will be sucked in through them. The tubes are welded before securing the second baffle.

We are preparing the top cover - we cut a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. If necessary, we supplement the wood-burning stove with a cooking hole. We weld the lid to our stove - you're done! Now we install the stove in its original place and proceed to testing. And yes, do not forget to attach legs to it or install it on a non-combustible base (for example, made of bricks).

The height of the chimney for potbelly stoves is at least one meter. The optimal indicator is 1.5-2 meters from the horizontal outlet or top cover.

Modernization of stoves for stoves

Now you know how to properly make a stove stove so that it can serve for heating country house, garage or utility room. But we need the stove to be efficient - to give maximum energy while burning a minimum of fuel. You will be surprised, but we have already considered one possible upgrade option - the pyrolysis unit presented above is an improved version. Pull out the partitions from there, and you will get the most banal stove-stove.

The choice of pipes for the chimney should be approached with special attention- pipes that are too thin or poorly welded will quickly burn out, which will lead to smoke in the room.

Not only pyrolysis will help to increase the efficiency of the stove. If you look at the drawing of the potbelly stove given above (from sheet metal), you will notice that the unit is covered with metal sheets on three sides. They are 50 mm away from the body and play a protective role. But that's not all - in interior space traction is formed, the process of convection occurs. Thanks to this, the efficiency of the stove-stove increases.

The next stage of modernization is the creation of a chimney bend. The thing is that a huge amount of heat escapes into the atmosphere through it. By increasing the length of the chimney using a horizontal section, we can use it to heat the room. The disadvantage of this approach is the deposition of soot in the horizontal section.