Became an integral part of planning and redevelopment indoor spaces, whether it be a home, apartment, office or something else. They are light in weight, they are easy to install, they do not create additional stress for load-bearing walls and beams, and you can create partitions of any shape and design. In general, there are a lot of advantages of this type of structure.

Maybe you need to break one large room into two or simply select a separate zone in it. Or maybe you want to move the doorway or fence the room off. Probably in office space it was necessary to fence off some of the employees. In any of these cases, it will not hurt you to know how to build a drywall partition with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard partition - preparation for work

First, you need to decide on the desired thickness of the future partition. In accordance with this, we select a profile and gypsum board. If the wall thickness in the room is 13.5 cm and you need to achieve coincidence with this value, then you need a profile of 100x40 mm and drywall 12.5 mm. As a result, after very simple calculations, we determine that the thickness of the partition will come out 100 + 12.5 + 12.5 + 100 = 125 mm. The 1 cm difference is not critical.

We prepare the necessary tools and materials:

• laser and bubble level;
• profile with specified parameters;
• screwdriver and puncher;
• self-tapping screws for wood, plasterboard and metal, dowels;
• scissors for metal;
• hammer;
• stationery knife.

The process of making a drywall partitions in a room with your own hands

We begin our step-by-step instructions for making a drywall partition with our own hands.

Since the standard width of the gypsum plasterboard is 120x250 mm, we will fix it exclusively vertically. Accordingly, a rack-mount profile must be installed every 60 cm. But for more solid construction you can let them in every 40 cm. It remains to mount a horizontal lintel.

In the course of installing all the necessary horizontal bridges, we get such a "skeleton" of our future partition.

In this case, all profiles can be fastened together with self-tapping screws without a drill, and cut with scissors for metal. At the end, be sure to check the plane of the frame and, if necessary, add attachment points to the ceiling, floor, walls.

We "sink" the self-tapping screws into the drywall by 1 mm.

First, we cover one side of the partition, and we proceed to the second only after all communication systems have been mounted inside it - sockets, wires, switches, etc.

We "embroider" the joints of the gypsum board with a clerical knife. This is done so that when sealing the joints, the solution enters the joints well, and the finish turns out to be smooth and of high quality.

This is how easy and not expensive you can make a plasterboard partition with your own hands. All that remains is to process the seams and stick on the protective corners, after which you can start finishing our new wall.

Articles on this topic:

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures ... Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is universal building material, which is used both for decorating a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating an apartment. Only the following can compete with him in terms of characteristics: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

• it is light material, therefore, the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• all work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials needed to create the frame and surface finish ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, therefore, even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• drywall sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

There is different types drywall, therefore, before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. normal, often gray, used in rooms where humidity is not more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has green or blue color and is used in those rooms where the humidity is constantly high;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, fiberglass and other additives are present in its composition, it is red or gray;
4. fireproof moisture resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

Normal sheet thickness is 12.5mm, and to create arches, sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm are used; to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Interior partition device

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To carry out the marking, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are applied on the floor and on the ceiling.

Much easier to work with laser level, but buy it only to create plasterboard wall impractical.

Given the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor for the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm larger than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account., if it is sheathed in one sheet, then add 2.5 cm to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then add 5 cm.

To carry out the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• a cord and a plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• scissors for metal or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut off the profile of the required length, we glue the back walls with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide rail to the floor., after which it is installed around the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fixed using screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now using the rack profile we form a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts above and below is the same... The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to put wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the rest of the rack profiles are mounted. if you have GKL standard width, then the distance between them is 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts, it is necessary to fix horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and fastened into the transverse profile located above the doorway, it should easily enter it, so as not to break the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The rest of the transverse profiles are attached to the racks; for this, special short self-tapping screws are used.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and strong, start laying electrical wiring... The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread the wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home you can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or rail. To do this, a ruler is applied to the sheet, a cut is made several times along the line, the deeper it is, the better, and then gently break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify Finishing work, at the cut point, make a chamfer at an angle of about 45 degrees, for this use a plane or knife.

During settlements, it is necessary to foresee in advance the places where it is planned to mount hinged furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles, reinforced wooden blocks, it all depends on the weight of the hinged structures.

Left attach the sheet to the racks, and fix it, this is done using self-tapping screws, they are installed with a step of 20 cm and slightly recessed in the sheet.

If you forgot to make chamfers on the sheets before installing them, then this is done with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing works

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a drywall partition. In the next step all seams are sealed. To do this, use a serpyanka tape and putty. Putty is also carried out on the entire surface of the wall.

After the base is dry, they begin to level the surface. The wall is covered with a primer, which will allow the plaster to gain a foothold and provide additional protection to the gypsum board. Leveling is carried out with a wide trowel and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening, door frame installation, do it with wedges, self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam ... First, the frame is exposed using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installation door leaf.

The correctness of the work is being checked, while the door should be easy to open and close. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in a closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

Cut off the foam after it has completely solidified, if the canvas was removed, then hang it only a day after the installation of the box.

Finishing

On the last stage creating a drywall wall, it is carried out finishing, for this usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is trimmed with platbands, which help to hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave the hollow partition, it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard., and only then it is sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install utilities in such a wall, or sliding door, then in the place where they are located, the insulation is not laid.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. At the bottom, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, therefore, stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to independently create a drywall wall with an opening for doors, you must adhere to the following expert advice:

1. During the installation of partitions, in the room should be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate required amount guides and rack-mount metal profiles, only then acquire them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are stacked tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special attachments on the drill.
5. At the junction of the sheets, be sure to use a serpyanka and well seal the heads of the self-tapping screws with putty, after which they putty the entire wall.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels other.

Output

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of drywall partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of work performance, expert advice and preparing necessary tool, feel free to start performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a drywall partition with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on video:

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Hello, hello, our brave drywall workers. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of drywall partitions. More specifically, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - from 111 to Knauf classification since such partitions are the most widespread. Let's deal with general principles their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and the interface of several partitions with each other. As an example, we will take a corner partition with a doorway, which is usually used to enclose pantries and dressing rooms (essentially moth nurseries) in order to store pickles / jams and all kinds of junk that is long overdue to be disposed of.

Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment are completely dry.

To begin with, let's get acquainted with the special profiles that serve to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack-mountable. More precisely, there are rack-mountable substations (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Sizes of guide profiles: 40 × 50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, we will use profiles with a width of 100 mm. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guiding shelves are straight, like the horns of the letter U, and the rack shelves have rounded edges, like C. By the way, shelves are called the side edges of the profiles, and the walls are the rear ones. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mounted, i.e. wall from the German "Wand".

Rack and guide profiles Knauf

They are in the conjugate version

We repeat once again that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of their rigidity, but also because their design allows them to be inserted into each other, thereby achieving their lengthening and strengthening on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not be able to do this. The walls of the PN already have ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.

Rack profile sizes: 50 × 50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th racks are rather weak, so we advise all of you to take the 75th or 100th. In the walls of the Knauf rack profiles there are 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.

1. Profile guides KNAUF PN 100 × 40 mm
2. Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100 × 50 mm
3. Dichtungsband sealing tape
4. Separating tape
5. "Dowel-nails" (another name "Quick installation") 6 × 40 mm
6. Cord breaker
7. Laser level, or bubble
8. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
9. Gyproc drywall sheets 3000x1200x12,5
10. Joint putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcement tape for joints KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. Hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting GK)
15. Rotary hammer + drill
16. Screwdriver and notch
17. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2 × 13mm or shorter
19. Metal scissors or grinder
20. Minvata ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Shumanet, etc.
21. Narrow and wide spatulas

On the next slide on the left - a self-tapping screw with a press washer, it serves to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with a drill and without. They are designated LB and LN, respectively. The slide shows the LN option. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a self-tapping screw for drywall. More precisely, it is all the same for metal, but it is already used for attaching sheets of GK to the profiles. Therefore, most often it is called that - a self-tapping screw for drywall. Has a secret, so-called. carob, head. Denoted - TN. There is also TB, with a drill at the end, but you can easily do without it, 0.6 mm steel TN-ki can easily be taken.

Self-tapping screws for installation of structures made of gypsum plasterboard

DIY instructions for installing a drywall partition.

Step 1. Markup

For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly desirable to pre-align it with the beacons. We draw a line-continuation of the wall on the ceiling, we make a right angle using a simple square. This line is the inner border of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But first we need to mount the frame, and for it the dimensions are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame, you can make everything easier. How? You will find out very soon ...

Ceiling marking lines

For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.

Transferring the markings to the floor

And now before you is the very simplified way of marking PN.

Marking holes for fasteners

The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles, cut to size, which are already set along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the sheets of the main code are sewn, the rule will not "jump" on the wall / partition boundary. Pieces of plasterboard should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We expose the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.

From a different angle

Step 2. Mount the PN

Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and a sealing tape is necessarily glued to the profiles. Its absence is capable of ruining the entire soundproofing of the future partition in the bud. With it, the abutment to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel-nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.

Fastening the profile to the dowel-nails

Floor guides

Near the opening

On the ceiling

We do not unscrew the pieces of gypsum board from the profiles until we fix the PN at all the necessary points. There are often situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and you can do this in one step - through the profile into the base. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the boundaries of the pieces of gypsum board clearly coincide with the marking lines. After fixing the guides to the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rule and make sure that they lie strictly on the same line.

It is necessary to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually, the step of the fasteners is made in the region of 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the step is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide PN into several segments. We do the same on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of the gypsum board, but do not throw it away, they will still be useful to us ...

Step 3. Fastening wall-mounted substations

Fixing uprights to walls

We cut out the rack profiles in height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls right through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We again drive the dowel-nails into these holes. Do not forget to glue the walls of the profiles with sealing tape! And control them with the rule, they must not bend. By the way, the height of the substation should be less than the height of the ceilings in the room, at least by 1 centimeter. They do not have to support the ceiling.

The length of the posts is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling

As you can see, there is some distance between the post profile and the floor.

Step 4. Installation of frame racks

Rack frame profiles are installed in 60 cm increments. If tiles are to be laid on the partition, then in 40 cm increments. The slide shows the profiles set at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. The nearest PS just forms the doorway.

Partition frame uprights

To reliably form the opening, the lateral PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles coincide in height. To insert PSs into each other is not an easy task, sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.

Substations are exposed in one direction - with the wall to the corner, from which the plasterboard cladding will begin. The maximum weight of the door leaf, which can withstand the steam PS-100 - 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. Profiles can be fixed to the guides using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (for a while). Before patching the plasterboard, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.

Racks on the ground

Yes, PSs are installed in one direction, because the fastening of the sheets should start from that part of the profile shelf, which is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile shelf, and it may bend. On the slide, you can see the almost finished frame of the partition. Let's take a look at how the outer corner is formed correctly ...

Forming the outer corner

Frame from a different angle

One of the rack profiles is turned with the wall outward, and the second stands as a shelf towards us. A distance equal to the thickness of the gypsum board was left between them, we laid it at the stage of fixing the PN. Thus, the Civil Code sheet with inside the partitions will start, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.

Step 5. Jumper

Jumper from PN

It remains for us to make a lintel for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by obliquely cutting its shelves and bending a part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and bend it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts with 2-3 self-tapping screws LN.

Jumper installation into the frame

Now our frame is completely finished. Electric cables can be passed through the frame. But you should not put them inside the profiles, so they can be pierced with TN screws when sheathing the gypsum board.

Step 6. Sheathing gypsum board

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

BEFORE jumpers

There are a few rules here.

• We have already mentioned the first - you cannot join the sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
• Second - cruciform joints of the "+" type, only the "t" type are unacceptable.
• Third - the joints of the sheets with the inner and with outside should be displaced horizontally by a step of profiles, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as props. After all, sheets of GK cannot be placed directly on the floor, they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
• And they shouldn't reach the ceiling either, by about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.

You can use small metal drills to secure the drywall to the double uprights. Otherwise, very often the screws just jam interior profile. First, drill holes through the gypsum board, then screw the screws into them. Of course, the sheets can be joined horizontally only on the profiles, which means that we must make the lintels from the PS at the joints. See how they look on the next slide.

Jumpers from PS

These are sections of conventional rack profiles. To fix them, again, you need to start from the side of the shelf, which is closer to the wall. In the matter of installing jumpers, it is advisable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of the profiles while you twist the screws in them. Once all the lintels have been placed, sound insulation slabs (mineral wool) can be placed between the profiles. We like ISOVER the most. When laying, we try not to leave empty areas. It should be cut off with a margin of about 5 cm so that it rests against the profiles and, due to this, is kept in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use glasses, a respirator and gloves!

Plating process

Plating process 2

Finished cladding

The pitch of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, after 10-15 cm. Make sure that the caps of the screws are deepened into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the self-tapping screw should be twisted. What is also important - the screws must enter strictly at right angles. They should be spaced from the edge of the end edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 15 mm and the longitudinal edge - at least 10 mm. By the way, the gypsum board can only be mounted in an upright position! If the room is planned stretch ceiling, under it in the partition, it is advisable to mount mortgages from the PS, into which we recommend to additionally insert a bar of the appropriate size.

I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the lintels on both sides of the partition, and not just from the side of the joint. It is advisable to guess the arrangement of the sheets on outer corner so that they lay on it at the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will deepen, and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive humanity has long been using a special coal protection paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that in our country it's hard to find one, so we have stone Age dragged on and we still use outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.

And here are the promised pairings:

Right outside corner

Cruciform mate

T-shaped mating

And here is a video from Knauf:

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The desire of each person to make their home unique and comfortable found a way out in the zoning of the premises.

The most inexpensive and easiest way to do this is to put a plasterboard partition in the room as a tool for zoning the space. And to further reduce costs, you can install it yourself. Before the advent of drywall, partitions were built from foam blocks or bricks.

Advantage of the construction made of gypsum plasterboard:

• It is flexible and allows you to create a structure of almost any shape;
• a large selection of profiles for the base;
• thanks to the ease of assembly, you can make a partition with your own hands;
• special moisture-resistant gypsum allows you to install drywall even in rooms with high humidity, and regulate this indicator using its porosity;
• light weight does not put a lot of stress on the structure and helps to reduce raw material costs;
• safe for health, because it is made from natural ingredients.

GKL partition

Before you start installing the partition in the room with your own hands, it is advisable to first think about what load will be on the wall, and what decorations are supposed to be there. This will help to provide for auxiliary jumpers and their attachment points in advance.

First you need to find out what you need in the work. The main thing is specially designed for use under the base metallic profile... Two types are used:

• larger (W) - for the construction of partitions frames;
• the smaller one (D) - for cladding ceilings and walls.

Additional types have been developed for each basic standard size:

• guide (U);
• carrier (C).

To build a simple partition with your own hands, you will need UW and CW beams. If a wide structure is planned, and even with communications, use UD and CD.

To build the wall, choose drywall with a size of 12.5 mm. If zoning is planned during wet rooms, it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant drywall (green).

Instruments

Tools required:

• puncher;
• roulette;
• level 120 cm and 80 cm long;
• fishing line or thick thread (rope);
• construction knife;
• plumb line;
• drill or screwdriver;
• hacksaw for metal;
• sandpaper.

Types of raw materials for the frame

The zoning of the room begins with the choice of the base for the wall being constructed.

It happens:

• metal;
• from wooden beams.

Everyone chooses the type that suits him. But it's better to use a metal base:

• it is durable;
• easier to install than wooden (especially if the work is done by hand);

The wooden lathing is exposed to moisture, which is why it changes in size, and the edges of the gypsum board may diverge.

After that, they begin to mark the room.

Room layout

Ensure that the ceiling and floor in the room are level, dry and free from contamination before applying the markings.

Using a building level and a plumb line, draw a line where the base of the frame will be located, starting at the floor, then going to the walls and then the ceiling. Keep in mind that the thickness of the wall itself, along with the finish, will be added to this line.

Assembling the metal frame

The beginning of the zoning of the room falls on the installation of the main guide. It is cut to the required length, taking into account the possible doorway. If such is provided, make a bend with scissors upwards by 15-20 centimeters and cut the side surface.

Basis of construction

Before proceeding, fix between the metal base and the surface sealing tape... The installation of the skeleton of the structure begins with fastening to the floor every 60 cm with a screwdriver.

To the ceiling, the base is installed exactly above the bottom. Next, a vertical bar is installed and screwed to the lower and upper ones. Wooden beams strengthen the supporting skeleton of the septum. They are inserted inside the base, attached with a self-tapping screw. The size of the bar should correspond to the size of the bar.

A guide (UW) is used to indicate the openings in the wall. Starting at the edge of the plank, the sidewalls are cut at an angle of 45 °. By bending them back, a U-shaped structure is obtained, which is attached to the first vertical profile of the opening using a self-tapping screw. Thus, the skeleton is formed along the entire perimeter of the opening.

The installation of the partition lathing is over.

Types of partitions

Plasterboard partitions are decorative and simple.

Curly gypsum plasterboard partitions from gypsum plasterboard perform the function of zoning the room, but they are more decorative and there is no doorway in them. Instead, they create arches of various beauty and all kinds of curly elements.

A simple design is also used for zoning a room, but this is not its only function. Such partitions hide pipes or electrical wiring.

Curly partition

Sheathing

Unlike the wall plasterboard partition zoning is sheathed with sheets on both sides. The material is different in thickness (9-20 mm), it is selected based on the requirements for the design. For curly elements, it is better to choose thinner raw materials, since drywall is flexible.

Everything here is easy to do with your own hands. Fasten the plasterboard layers to the lattice using a self-tapping screw. Start at the edges, moving towards the midline. The distance between the screws is 10-25 cm. Plasterboard sheets are placed 10-15 mm above the floor to preserve the integrity of the structure.

After fixing the first sheet, measure the remaining distance to the ceiling and accordingly cut a piece of drywall to it. The following are installed in one piece, without clipping. It is advisable to ensure that the edges are always in the center of the wall skeleton. This is how the first side of the wall is sheathed.

How to properly cut drywall

The sheet is placed on a flat surface. Mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut with a construction knife upper layer, after which the gypsum board is moved from the support and gently broken off. On the other hand, the drywall is cut (but not through), put on the edge and bent, then, shifting to the edge, break off.

Communication wiring

If you need to stretch the electrical wiring through the wall with your own hands, do this before installing the gypsum board on the second side of the structure. First of all, the wires are placed in a special tube, which is made of non-combustible material, which eliminates the occurrence of a fire. The tube is laid 15-20 cm from the ceiling or floor, therefore, the outputs for the switches must be placed vertically. The pipe is laid without too much tension, after which it is attached with clips.

Soundproofing

The material does not need additional fasteners. Then the second side is cladding. The sheets should rest on different profiles with their edges to distribute the correct load on the structure.

The video will show this process in more detail:

Finishing

After the end of the installation, they start finishing. To do it yourself, it is enough to prime the surface, use plaster to process the seams, fastening points of screws and the structure as a whole. The joints are processed with fiberglass mesh. To do this, a layer of putty is applied to the seam and a mesh is immediately applied. It is important to press it well with a spatula. Then another layer of putty is applied and leveled with high quality. Now everything should dry out, after which the seam is sanded.

Seam sealing

When the plaster is completely dry, they start painting the walls, or wallpapering. You can design the structure as far as imagination and finances allow.

Creating zoning in a room is not difficult, and thanks to drywall, everything is done by hand. Whether it is the creation of a kitchen connected to the dining room, a separate children's room, a separation of the bathroom and toilet. After all, such a partition will cost much less, and will delight residents with its functionality and aesthetics.

Read also: - types of products, rules for mounting on walls, examples of interiors with decoration, photos and videos

Photo gallery

Several beautiful ideas for implementation:

How to install a plasterboard room divider
Excellent zoning solution
Any room can be demarcated
Multiple profile areas thanks to drywall

Another worthy option to implement
A good solution for an apartment or house
The partition allows you to increase the space
Several zones in one room
Comfort comes first
Children's room also requires zoning
Everyone will appreciate the comfort in the apartment
Partition instead of a massive cabinet
Wardrobe or modern partition
Non-standard solutions in the interior
Sleek design
Partition with shelves
Openwork construction
Decorative room divider
Two zones in one room
The partition in the room has several functions.
Decorative functions of partitions
Several ways of interior zoning
Not just for demarcation
Drywall is ideal for partitions

Drywall is often the only one available material, with which you can redevelop the premises. Yes, and to give the walls a divine appearance is often possible only with the help of gypsum board. The good thing about a drywall wall is that you can do it yourself without hiring a team of professionals for such work. At most, one assistant may be needed.

You can save a lot if you buy self-tapping screws with a length of 25, not 35 mm. According to the rules, after screwing the self-tapping screw should look 1 cm from the back side, so many try to take 35 mm with a margin, but this is not always justified. If the sheet thickness is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm, on which the self-tapping screw should protrude, we get 22.5 mm. The profile thickness is insignificant, so it can be ignored in the calculations.

The minimum thickness of a plasterboard wall is 4 centimeters. Add the width of the rails (27 mm) to the thickness of the drywall (12.5 mm). If we are talking about a partition in a room, then you need to add one more thickness of drywall, with which the wall is sheathed on both sides. The end result is 52 mm. When creating a frame against a wall, it is customary to retreat from it about 5 cm, so that it is convenient to work with profiles. V otherwise it will be difficult even to drill holes.