No matter how expensive and high-quality the door is, after some time it will lose its original appearance and will require restoration. The easiest way to give a door a second life is to upholster it. A variety of materials can be used for door trim. The technology of work from the upholstery material practically does not change. Check out the instructions provided and you can easily do your DIY repairs.

What is needed for upholstery of the door: preparation for work

Many different materials are suitable for self-upholstery of doors, namely:

• PVC film;
• leather;
• dermantin;
• vinyl leather.

The last option from the list is the most preferred. Vinyl leather is superior to leatherette and artificial leather in terms of basic quality characteristics and is cheaper than natural leather.

Upholstery material can be purchased from a specialist shop. In general, the size of the cut should be about 15 cm larger than the dimensions of the door on each side.

Upholstery will require you to make special upholstery rolls. In total, you need to prepare three strips with a width of about 100-150 mm. Select the height individually in accordance with the height of your door structure.

Choose a lining material. The budget option is foam rubber. A lining 1-2 cm thick is enough.

If you want to improve the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the door, use Izolon instead of foam rubber. It is a very practical material with excellent performance properties. It costs a little more than simple foam rubber and significantly surpasses it in all characteristics.

Additionally, you will need to buy various small accessories, the same decorative nails. A huge selection of such products is available on sale in a wide variety of color variations. Choose according to your taste.

If you wish, you can buy upholstery nails, originally upholstered in leather or leatherette. They will be invisible on the main door leaf, which is the right solution in many situations.

In general, try to choose nails that are as close to the color of the upholstery as possible. After restoration, the door should have a harmonious appearance, unless otherwise provided by your design project.

The work on the self-upholstery of the door is carried out using glue. You can buy the most ordinary glue like "Moment", etc. One side of the door leaf will take about 100 ml of glue.

In the process of self-upholstering a door made of wood, no difficulties should arise. Understand the instructions provided, understand the difference between sheathing the outer and inner planes of the canvas and get to work.

Interior finish of a wooden door

This method is suitable for finishing those models that open inward, i.e. into the space of the room.

First step. Make a special roller. With this element, you will hide the gap between the door frame and the door leaf itself. Also, in some situations, the roller will help the web to adhere more tightly to the frame.

Second step. Attach a strip of upholstery to the face of the door so that it is about 35-40mm on the base. Fixation with a special stapler.

If overhead locks are installed on the door, start attaching material from it. In case your locks are mortise, the fastening should start slightly below the central part of the long side of the door. Upholste the entire perimeter of the canvas with similar stripes.

Step three. Apply foam or other chosen filler. Pre-cut the material into strips about 100 mm wide. Use the same stapler to attach the pad. The resulting roller should protrude approximately 10-40 mm, depending on the peculiarities of the ratio of the door itself and decorative platbands. This completes the roller.

Stage four. Measure the space between the inner edges of the roller you created and cut out a strip of thick foam. Subtract 10 mm on each side from the previously measured roller to determine the appropriate strip width. Attach the finished foam strip.

Fifth stage. Proceed directly to the door trim. Take a piece of the selected upholstery material by the corner, gently tuck its edges about 6 cm and lay it in the corner of the door leaf so that the upholstery slightly overlaps the surface of the previously prepared roller.

Drive in a decorative nail about 0.5 cm from the edge.

Take the upholstery material by the second top corner, tuck it in the same way, and hammer in the second decorative nail, while pulling the upholstery slightly.

Make sure the upholstery piece is laid flat. To do this, run your hand along the center line of the door with a small clip, reach the bottom and, firmly holding the upholstery with your hand, attach its lower corners to the edges of the door. If the distance is the same at both ends, you can continue working. If there are discrepancies, the fastening of the upholstery will have to start over, otherwise it will be uneven and ugly at the end.

Nail the upper edge of the canvas with decorative nails in increments of 1 cm.Further, according to the same scheme, finish any side part, carefully tucking the upholstery material at an equal distance and pulling it slightly.

Walk to the bottom edge and move on to finishing the second side piece. At the end, fix the lower free edge with a stapler. On this self-cladding completed. Go to the installation of the peephole and old or new locks.

If the door structure consists of two leaves, the restoration is carried out in the same manner. An important nuance is only that the vertical roller needs to be equipped on a sash with a handle.

Video - DIY door upholstery

Finishing the outside of a wooden door

This is an instruction manual for structures that come off outward.

First step. Close the door and transfer the projection of its box directly onto the canvas. This will give you the outline of the new upholstery. The margin around the edges is required for the “quarter”.

Second step. Secure the padding material approximately one centimeter away from the marked line.

Step three. Just as in the previous instructions, nail in the main piece of upholstery, leaving the bottom edge unlocked.

Fourth step. Make a heat-insulating roller. For outdoor upholstery, it is attached to the box, not to the canvas. It is made in almost the same way as when performing inner upholstery, only the volume of inner foam rubber needs to be slightly increased.

Position the roller on the looped side so that it is flush with the door jamb... In relation to the lock side and the upper part, the roller must be extended by 0.5 cm. Attach the bottom side of the finished roller to the door leaf so that when closed it is tightly pressed against the door sill.

If you attach the roller directly to the threshold, it will fray very quickly due to being caught by your feet.

Fifth step. Secure the bottom edge of the upholstery with construction stapler, and then install locks, new or old handles, a peephole and, if necessary, decorative elements.

There are two main options for cladding a metal door structure: a budget one using materials such as vinyl leather, dermantine and the like, and a more expensive one using decorative panels. Read the instructions for each of them and choose the option that suits you.

Video - Upholstery and insulation of metal doors

Budgetary way

Restoration of metal doors can be carried out using the same materials as wood canvases. However, in this case, there is no need to use decorative carnations - everything is done with glue.

First step. Thoroughly grease the edges of the door leaf with quality glue and fix the foam strips on it. Cut off excess lining along the door profile.

Second step. Apply the adhesive to the end of the top of the door and proceed with the bonding of the selected upholstery material. Glue the top first, then door hinges, after them glue the locks, and finally the bottom of the door. Smooth out wrinkles and get rid of distortions of the material directly in the process.

Step three. After the glue is completely dry (the drying time is indicated in the instructions for a particular product), cut off any excess material, if present, using a sharp utility knife. Be careful not to damage the main upholstery.

Fourth step. Install the peephole, handles and replace the locks.

Expensive way

This method assumes upholstery metal structure special panels. For outdoor upholstery, the best choice is made of MDF. They are manufactured in several standard sizes... After such upholstery, the door will look no worse than expensive factory-made counterparts.

Carry out interior decoration with wall panels. Select the upholstery material in accordance with the interior of the room and the features of the door operation. MDF has a more attractive appearance, often imitating the texture of exclusive and expensive wood, but this material needs to be treated with care. Plastic panels are much easier to maintain, but not as beautiful.

First step. Measure your metal drill. You need to know the width and exact height of the canvas. On the inside of the door, you will find corners designed to increase the rigidity of the door structure. The width of such corners corresponds to the depth of the door leaf. You also need to fix this parameter in measurements. You will need it when buying foam sheets and wooden beams.

Determine the inner height of the web as the distance from the bottom to the top corner. Width inner surface, respectively, will be equal to the distance between the side metal corners. Record the measurement results.

Second step. Go to the building store along with the results of previous measurements. Buy polystyrene there, panels from the selected material, wooden bar and a decorative corner with a 10-15 percent margin.

Step three. Return home and proceed to decorate the door. First, cut the block into 4 pieces. The length of these segments should correspond to the width of the door leaf.

Take a block, attach it to the upper edge of the canvas and, using a marker or pencil, draw a line along this block on the base. Do the same at the bottom of the canvas. Place the remaining blocks on the door so that all 4 blocks are placed at approximately the same distance as a result. Leave the appropriate labels.

Fourth step. Armed with an electric drill, make 16 mounting holes in your door. There should be 4 holes for each block. The diameter of these holes should be equal to the diameter of the screws.

Fifth step. Fix the bars to the canvas with self-tapping screws. This will give you a skeleton.

Sixth step. Drill the fixing holes for fixing the upholstery panel. The optimal number of holes for mounting each such panel, as a rule, is given by the manufacturer in the accompanying instructions.

Seventh step. Prepare in cladding panel peephole holes, locks and handles.

Eighth stage. Fix the panel. For more convenience, you can remove the door leaf from the hinges.

Move on to the upholstery of the inside of the door leaf.

First step. Attach the frame bars to the canvas as you did with the outer upholstery.

Second step. Cut the foam into pieces, focusing on the distance between the frame bars. Make holes for the peephole, handles and door locks in the corresponding parts of the foam.

Step three. Place the Styrofoam sheets in the spaces between all the sticks. Additionally, you can fix the foam with good quality glue.

Fourth step. Anchor interior panels on the frame. Plastic panels fixed with a stapler, fixation of MDF panels is performed with clamps.

Fifth step. Attach a decorative corner of a suitable material around the perimeter of the door leaf. It will hide the edges of the upholstery and give the door a more attractive appearance.

Sixth step. Put a peephole, handles, locks, if necessary, replace the platbands.

These simple instructions will allow you to update the appearance of your door with minimal financial and time costs.

Happy work!

Video - How to upholster a door with your own hands

In order for the front door to always have an attractive appearance, you constantly need to take care of it: paint, putty, etc. To save yourself from unnecessary trouble, you can do differently - buy dermantin and sheathe the door leaf with it. In this case, all care for the door will be reduced to wiping its surface with a damp cloth. Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine will also increase its heat and sound insulation, making your apartment more secure and comfortable.

Types of materials for upholstery front door.

Preparatory work

To sheathe the door yourself with dermantine, you need to prepare the following tools:

• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• scissors;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• brush.

From the materials you should prepare:

Door upholstery scheme.

1. Dermantin. It is a rolled material with a width of 1.1-1.4 m. To carry out the work, you will need a piece of dermantine, the dimensions of which will exceed the dimensions of the door leaf by approximately 10-15 cm on each side for allowances.
2. Lining. A synthetic winterizer, foam rubber or isolon is perfect as a substrate. The choice of this or that option will depend on your financial capabilities.
3. Decorative cord for pulling dermantin.
4. Decorative nails. They are made in various colors, so you can easily choose the option that suits you best.
5. Glue. You need to purchase it if you plan to cover a metal structure.
6. Antiseptic. It will be needed for processing a wooden canvas.

After everything you need is prepared, you can start removing the old coating from the door leaf, and also determine whether you will remove the door from the hinges or not. If this is the first time you come across such a finishing work, then it is best to remove the canvas and put it on a flat surface. After that, it is recommended to treat the wooden door with an antiseptic that can protect it from mold and mildew.

It should be noted that the door is sheathed only on one side, so you need to pay attention to which way it opens. This is due to the fact that a bead is formed along the edges of the skin. In some cases, an additional roller is used, with which the door structure can be made more airtight.

Do-it-yourself wooden door cladding with dermantine

We nail the dermantin along the upper edge of the door in several places with nails.

After the preparation is over, you can proceed directly to the finishing work. The first step is to make rollers from the cut strips of dermantin, which are nailed along the edges of the canvas from the front side. They can be hollow or filled with cotton wool.

Then a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on the surface of the door, on top of which the dermantin itself lies. In this case, a margin of about 8-9 cm should be left on the side of the hinges. The edges of the material are tucked in and nailed with decorative carnations along the entire edge.

Nails should be hammered in in increments of no more than 10 cm, as in otherwise the dermantin will bulge out.

Near the hinges finishing material nailed last. In this part of the door structure, a hollow roller is created, which is nailed to the jamb.

In order to prevent the insulation from sliding off during the operation of the door, the dermantin is pulled in several places with a decorative cord, which is fixed with decorative nails. To give the door a unique look, the cord can be laid in certain patterns. You can apply a grid pattern, or you can create a nice vignette in the center. There are a lot of options for laying a decorative cord. The most popular of them are shown in Fig. 1.

Sheathing of metal doors

Figure 1. Options for laying a decorative cord.

The process of finishing a metal structure with dermantin is somewhat different from the above instructions. In many ways, metal door upholstery is made even easier and faster, because there is no need to fix the finishing material with decorative nails. In the process of decorating a door with your own hands, it is this procedure that takes the most time.

First, the metal door removed from the hinges and prepared is placed on a flat surface and its edges are greased with glue, after which they are applied thermal insulation material, trying to make it lay down right away as it should. Then the insulation is pressed against the base of the door and the glue is allowed to seize, after which the excess material on the sides should be cut off with scissors.

Further, adhesive composition process the ends of the door and lay the finishing material. This is done in this order: first, the top is fixed, then they move to the side with loops, then the opposite side is glued, and at the very end the bottom is fixed. When installing the dermantine, you need to carefully monitor so that it does not skew, and does not form folds on it.

After the glue is completely dry, the excess dermantin is cut off, and the door is hung in its place. The door surface can also be decorated with a cord. Only in this case, instead of nails, the same glue is used to fix it.

Correctly executed door upholstery will serve you for many years, not only giving the entire structure an attractive appearance, but also protecting your apartment from outside noise and heat loss in the cold season.

Door trims are performed for various reasons. Among the main ones, they are distinguished - insulation of a wooden or metal entrance structure, as well as the creation of a new decorative coating. It should be noted that all work can be done independently, but in order to get really quality result- you need to make every effort and accuracy. If everything is done correctly, the result will be a coating that not only protects from the penetration of cold from the outside, but also provides an excellent visual appearance.

It all starts with the fact that you need to decide: how to sheathe the front door. The most acceptable option is the use of leatherette. Many people mistakenly believe that this material has a lot of disadvantages. Yes, they exist and lie in the fact that such a product is very difficult to restore, in addition, dermantin promotes the spread of fire. But the merits of of this material a lot more:

1. It is resistant to microorganisms that can contribute to mold and rot.
2. Excellent moisture resistance. That is, water does not penetrate into the inner layer, which does not lead to undesirable consequences.
3. Has good durability. With proper care, the service life is tens of years. Even now, you can find options for metal doors that were covered several decades ago. However, they still have not lost their appearance.
4. Not damaged when used household chemicals, washes well.
5. Withstands low temperatures... This makes it possible to use the material for decoration from the outside. Naturally, you should give preference to quality options.

On a note! Dermatin is a type of artificial leather. Such products are positioned as an excellent substitute for natural options.

To choose a really high-quality product, you should pay attention to a number of parameters. Namely:

• Wear resistance, which should be at least 30 - 35 thousand cycles.
• Flexibility. The artificial leather should stretch without cracks or creases.
• Imitation natural material should be as believable as possible.

There are many low-quality fakes on the market that lose their appearance in a very short time.

When choosing dermantin for upholstery, you should take into account many nuances that determine the quality of this material.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself door cladding requires a complex preparatory activities... They are as follows:

• A schematic drawing is prepared if it is planned to give the structure a more presentable look.
• A list of materials that will be used in the work is compiled:
  • Leatherette. You should select the product in special stores where there is big choice by texture and colors. It should be borne in mind that these products are purchased with a margin.
  • Insulation, which is used for additional sound and heat insulation. To do this, you can choose felt, foam rubber or synthetic winterizer. The thickness varies within 1 - 2 cm. It will depend on the created pattern (tightening). In order to obtain beautiful sealing beads, it is advisable to give preference to a heater that has a round, elongated shape.
  • Glue and decorative nails required for fixing. The second option is selected depending on the type of hat, which will play the role of a visual element.

It's hard to imagine: how to sheathe an entrance door without the right tools... Therefore, the necessary set is being prepared:

1. A hammer with a small head, but a comfortable handle for hammering in nails.
2. Professional or semi-professional stapler. A set of staples (8-10 mm) is purchased separately. This tool allows for preliminary and additional fixation.
3. A utility knife or good scissors - for cutting out.
4. A screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers that will help you to dismantle and mount handles, as well as other elements.
5. Pliers to remove old sheathing or misshapen nails.

Before finishing the front door with dermantin, a number of preparatory procedures are performed:

• The doorway is freed from unnecessary parts - handles, locks, eyes, chains. It is much better to carry out work if the canvas is not removed from the hinges. In the absence of proper experience, all measurements, circumcisions are performed with great care.
• If you plan to knock off a door that already has a decorative coating, then it is first removed.
• It often happens, especially with iron parts, that they are susceptible to rust. It should be cleaned off.

On a note! All elements must be thoroughly cleaned of any damage. Wooden elements can have cracks and chips, they are covered with a special putty.

Finishing activities

Door cladding with dermantine is performed on two sides: internal and external. Technologically, these two processes have some differences. There is also a distinction between works that are carried out when upholstering wooden and metal doors.

Working with wooden structures from the inside

All work begins with the definition of a door opening scheme - to an apartment or an entrance (to the street in a private house). The correct selection of the size and location of the sealing beads depends on this.

Often wooden canvases open inward. Therefore, this option should be considered.

The technology is as follows:

The installation of dermantin is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The fixation starts from the top. Small plot tucked under the insulation, decorative carnations make their way along the edge.
  

  On a note! The initial fastening is very difficult to accomplish. For this, a stapler is used, the staples of which are hammered in several places.

• The evenness of the installation is checked. Make sure there are no distortions.
• Further, the carnations make their way along the left and then along the right side. All work is done carefully - by constantly stretching the canvas. Wrinkles should not be allowed.
• The bottom is nailed last.

Fastening dermantin

At the end, marks are made to cut holes for the handles and the eyelet.

The door trim is considered complete. But only direct coverage is obtained. To obtain a picture, the markup is performed. Points are marked on the canvas, which are located at regular intervals. Carnations are hammered on them. It is important to take into account that the process starts from the center, excluding the strong tension of the leatherette.

Working with wooden structures outside

From the side of the street or entrance, work is carried out as follows:

1. The door closes. One centimeter recedes from the edge of the canvas.
   

   On a note! If the door does not have the required sound insulation, then one or two layers of material should be glued. It is very convenient when the first layer has a self-adhesive side, the second is attached to staples.

2. An insulating roller is fixed at the bottom. For this, a piece of leatherette is used, in which a piece of foam rubber is wrapped. It should be positioned slightly higher than the bottom edge of the canvas. Displacement must be avoided, otherwise it will cling to the threshold. Many craftsmen believe that this is an unnecessary element, so it is advisable to proceed from a specific situation.
3. To insulate the canvas with insulation, they begin from the top, and then go down from both sides. It is important to consider that the material should not sag. If this is allowed, then further actions will turn out to be of poor quality.
4. On the last stage lining a wooden door with leatherette. It is fixed along the folded edges. If necessary, get a drawing - the entire surface is broken through.

On a note! Many craftsmen believe that it is at the final stage that the lower roller is formed. It is formed by folding the leatherette lined with cut foam rubber. That is, the roller is solid. Be sure to check that it does not cling to the threshold.

The upholstery is complete when the rollers are installed around the perimeter of the box itself.

Working with a metal door - interior decoration

The situation is a little more complicated when it comes to how to sheathe an iron door. The methods of cladding outside and inside also differ.

Currently, many manufacturers are trying to interior decoration the front door was carried out in production. For this, decorative inserts from MDF are used. But it happens that cheaper options do not have such elements, then it becomes necessary to cover the doors with dermantine with your own hands.

The work is carried out according to a certain scheme:

The video will help you understand the intricacies of the process:

If required, a drawing is created. To make it look more beautiful, you can use leftover artificial leather. The technology consists in the fact that one edge is nailed to the right place, then the strip is stretched and fixed again in the desired area. The result is a coating that has a more pronounced texture.

Working with a metal door - exterior decoration

If it is necessary to sheathe an entrance metal door from the outside, then a lining of small thickness is used.

The order of work is as follows:

• The synthetic winterizer or foam rubber is cut in size, which should be eight to ten millimeters smaller than the door leaf. The leatherette is immediately cut off. Its canvas should be equal to the size of the insulation plus 6-7 cm.
• Insulation is attached with glue, which is evenly applied around the entire perimeter iron door... You need to wait some time for the material to adhere well. If this is not done, then further work may be of poor quality. The trimmed area must have an even surface.
• Now a layer of leatherette is laid. It is evenly distributed over the entire surface. The edges are folded over the edge of the door leaf panels. The bent section must be fixed; for this, glue is used, which has a fast setting.

If you do everything carefully, the front door trim will turn out to be very respectable. At the end, you should carefully install all additional elements(handles, locks).

Few details

Currently, leatherette is understood as a whole complex of materials. Therefore, if it is necessary to purchase, it should be borne in mind that there are types of coatings that can successfully replace it:

1. Eco leather. Fabric-backed product with polyurethane coating. This option is not applicable for rooms with high humidity.
2. Vinyl leather. Its composition is very similar to natural leather. This variety has many excellent decorative solutions that are suitable for different situations.
3. Amidiskin. An excellent solution in order to ennoble the door with your own hands, because the material has good elasticity. Purchasing cheap varieties should be avoided.

There are many options for how to sheathe the door most effectively. All of them are described in the next article. However, the upholstery with dermantine, which adorned the front door in almost every Soviet house, has not lost its popularity to this day. And all because this is one of the few ways to finish the door leaf, which is easy to do with your own hands. Naturally, the main parameter will be accuracy and strict adherence to all stages.

Sooner or later, but any apartment owner comes to the conclusion that the insulation of the front door is a necessity. Do-it-yourself door trim with leatherette will help solve several important problems - this is its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

To the fact that the door must be insulated, they usually come in the cold season, when, it would seem, in very small cracks, it begins to blow with a draft. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to carry out such work in advance?

When solving the issue of transforming the door leaf, you can contact yourself easy way sheathing - an even stretch of leatherette, or you can use more complex options when using multiple pieces of material.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepared necessary tools and materials for work.

Preparing for door trim

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future sheathing, if it will have any drawing. It can be a carefully checked drawing or, in case of emergency, even a regular pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawn picture, you can make a list necessary materials that will be needed for work:

• Leatherette or imitation leather can be purchased in specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is presented. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and textured pattern on the surface. Standard width leatherette 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just suitable for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If, however, a door in a private house is sheathed, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained when measuring, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed to make rollers that frame the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. You will need three of these elements.

If the door leaf is sheathed with separate leatherette elements, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, you need to take into account its bending inward on each separate element 50 ÷ 100 mm from all sides.

Another option for lining with a pattern can be removing it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

• Insulation material will help to achieve thermal and noise insulation.

For insulation and sound insulation, sheet foam rubber is well suited

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (relief) of the drawing, which will be removed using constrictions or decorative nails.

If it will be insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

• In the case when it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decorative design, then it is worth choosing the color of their hats so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The cladding will look more presentable if the nail heads have enough big size and the same color as the entire sheathing sheet.

Another option would be nails with metal heads that match the color and texture of the material of the handles and locks.

• For finishing metal door glue is needed, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
• For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by footage at hardware stores. This material will give the roller a neat, uniform, rounded shape.

3. To work, you also need to prepare some tools:

• Small hammer for driving in nails.
• Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. Optimal size staples - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Scissors and a construction knife for cutting and trimming materials.
• To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver with different attachments (bits).
• It will be nice to have pliers and a nailer on hand, they can be useful for removing old casing and removing nails that have not entered the door leaf correctly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can start preparatory work.

• First, you need to remove all installed on the door from the door. elements - locks, handles and peephole.
• If the door trim is going to be made, on which there is already an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, old paneling removable easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not accommodate the new finish.

• Further, some craftsmen remove the door from the hinges and, for the convenience of further work, lay it on several chairs or on enough big table... Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
• In most cases, the sheathing is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trimming process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed from two sides - from the outside and the inside; there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that you also need to consider before starting work.

Sheathing from the inside of a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

In this publication, an option will be considered when the door opens to the inside of the apartment.

• The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared leatherette strips and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulation material.

The leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed along the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes beyond the canvas by 4 ÷ 7 mm, since it must cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller must completely cover the door frame. The roller is fixed with stapler and staples starting at the top right corner. From there go to the left top corner, then frame the sides with it. It is fixed to the lower part last.

• The next step is to cut the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm less than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets on the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm at the edges free so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door material - leatherette.

• Next, you need to correctly place the main leatherette canvas. The main thing is to avoid distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to be mistaken with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is folded under insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is secured and the direction is checked again, the left side is nailed and then the right side. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed down last.

• Then, it is very important to accurately mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
• If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill decorative carnations along the marking, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to stretch the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - external cladding

The door sheathing, opening to the inside of the apartment, from the side of the entrance, is made as follows:

• Before starting work, you need to close the door and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will define the position of the trim on the door leaf. If the leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
• The insulation is cut out 10 mm m less than the delineated area and fixed with staples.

• Further, with tucking into the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as with inside doors - first on top, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

• In this case, the insulation roller is fixed on the outer side of the door frame from three sides, but it is not installed on the threshold. This element, in a fixed form, should close the cracks, finding it on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen.
• The lower roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply wear off over time and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since the door in this case will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, must adhere tightly to the sill from above, that is, as it were, to find on it.

• On the roller nailed to the door, the lower part of the main leatherette canvas is pulled and nailed, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
• Further, holes are made in the leatherette lining for door accessories - locks, a peephole and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

V last years in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to a wooden one. It is good if there is an opportunity to purchase immediately insulated and, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame from a corner or a shaped pipe. In this case, the landlord picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper form.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their cladding.

Inner side of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame comes out inside the room without insulation and decorative materials This can be easily remedied by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it with a decorative panel. For work, materials that are slightly different from the plating of a wooden door are required.

• Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
• The foam will be needed to seal the joints between the installed foam and the metal frame.
• Wooden slats for fastening to the inner sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching the decorative panel.
• Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners ( shaped pipe) for screwing wooden slats to the metal frame.
• Decorative nails for fixing the leatherette on the plywood surface.
• Self-tapping screws for wood for screwing a plywood sheet to wood slats.
• Plywood sheet equal in shape and area to the door frame, no more than 10 mm thick.
• Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
• Glue or Double-sided tape, for fixing the insulation on the plywood.

The work on finishing the inner surface of the door is as follows:

• Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. It is first necessary to drill through holes through the slats and metal frame elements.

• After fixing the rails between them and the metal sheet, gaps may form, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed polyurethane foam... In addition, it will contribute to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

• Further, between the fixed and insulated rails, foam plastic is installed, around which polyurethane foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

• On a plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since you will have to screw it to them.
• If you need to hide the caps of the screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed on before sheathing.
• First, the sheet is twisted to the middle slats, so that all the edges remain free for the establishment of leatherette behind them.
• Foam rubber is fixed to the installed plywood on glue, or better - on double-sided masking tape.
• The leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and at the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and a carnation with a decorative cap can be driven in next to it.
• Further, the leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with cloves. Since nails are hard enough to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
• Thus, decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
• Then, on it you need to outline location lock, cut the leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in the plywood.

I must say that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. It is installed from below and gradually rises to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

Outer side of a metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, you can use not too thick felt for laying under the leatherette, which is glued to the metal surface.

• Insulation cut out smaller the door leaf is 7 ÷ 10 mm, and the leatherette is 60 ÷ 80 mm larger than this size. This extra area will go to fold the edge to the other side of the sheet.
• A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
• Further, a heater is applied to it and pressed against it. It is necessary to give time for the glue to set and dry.
• Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, folded over the edges of the metal panel of the door and glued on its other side. It is best to use a quick-drying all-purpose adhesive for this purpose.

The top edge of the material is glued first. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side parts of the door. If excess material forms on the curls, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and a fold is too thick at the corners, then it is better to cut off a part of the leatherette in these places.

• If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out to be neat and respectable.

• Finally, the door is installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" plating

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" sheathing looks very impressive

This cladding is performed in two different ways- from whole material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions, the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed, if there is no experience in performing such "filigree" work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for a start, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. You can use any fabric for training.

For all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a number of preparatory measures. It is very important not to neglect the careful marking - only in this case, geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses can be obtained.

• For marking, you need to take a sheet of thick plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It needs to be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
• At the intersection of straight lines, they are outlined and then drilled round holes, so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
• Plywood is placed on a foam mat and through the holes there are marked the places where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

• Further, the marked foam rubber is shifted to wooden base... If it is too thick, round holes may be cut in it to drive nails.
• Around the holes or drawn circles are traversed with a stapler, nailing the insulation to the base and marking the recesses.
• Dermatin is drawn from the seamy side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to fold the edges of the material when nailing it.
• Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can start fixing it on the door leaf.
• Pieces are applied to the foam rubber along the markings and nailed. You can first mark them with a stapler, and then nail them in with decorative carnations.

Each piece is stacked and attached separately - you need the utmost care

• It is necessary to ensure that the overlap of the other pieces of leatherette goes in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
• Without proper experience, the work will seem quite difficult and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture identical strips, which will serve as a foam rubber tie between the nails.

Prices for different types of door upholstery kits

Door upholstery kit

Video: one of the options for "coach" door trim with leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, in all cases, you first need to carefully mark the door leaf.

If this work is done independently, then not only will experience and skill in its implementation appear, but a significant amount will also be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking the risk of training for a start on small planes.

TOP-12 best manufacturers of entrance doors

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
Best Budget Entrance Doors
#1		Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4		Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5		Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best luxury entrance doors
#1		Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5		Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6		Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7		Guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Stal brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to the complex design, which provides high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. To prevent unauthorized opening, a system protection... The Steel lineup is constantly being updated. Buyers can choose from powder-coated doors with wood, veneer or laminated panel finishes. Available as models in the catalog classic design and exclusive design developments.

• wide range of;
• value for money.

budget doors are rather weak.

Outpost

To successfully compete in the domestic market, the Russian company Forpost had to launch the production of doors in China. Since 2009, the products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are also satisfied with the products. They note a good build quality, a rich model range, and a well-developed service network. The doors are not devoid of some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance on the market of low-quality fakes.

• affordable price for prestigious models;
• wide service network;
• rich model range.

• counterfeit products appeared;
• weak noise insulation in budget models;
• fittings only fit original.

Bravo

Today the manufacturer boasts lineup in 350 units. Here the buyer has a lot to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern species doors ranging from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishes. Doors also differ structurally; the assortment includes sliding, folding and special models. Door leaves under such brands as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from eco-friendly materials, it meets the stringent requirements of international standards.

• a wide range of products;
• affordable price;
• a wide variety of designs and finishes.

• thin metal;
• poor insulation.

Bravo entrance door

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced by the domestic manufacturer Bravo. They represent a premium line. For the manufacture of canvases, thick steel, Knauf fire-resistant mineral wool is used as a heater. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffening ribs, equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the products correspond to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors in this series are not only robust and durable. They have extremely high aesthetic properties. For finishing, the manufacturer used wide range decorative panels.

• massiveness and good quality;
• good heat and sound insulation;
• anti-removable pins.

• warped after six months of operation;
• high price.

Groff entrance door

Torex

Torex entrance doors are made in accordance with the most advanced developments. Today the company can boast of a wide distribution network in the vastness of the CIS. Production facilities are currently fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10 thousand units. The manufacturer does not stop there, new developments appear on the market with enviable consistency. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of products by using two steel sheets. The base is played by a one-piece bent profile with a thickness of 2 mm. Designers from Italy are often involved in the design of doors.

there are no models available.

Dierre

The Italian door manufacturer Dierre needs no special introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries the world, as evidenced by the annual sales of 200 thousand products. Production facilities have been created in Russia to provide the domestic market with products bearing the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest advances in the field of locking. So, "smart" entrance doors are equipped with a system remote control, the key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. Solid design is considered a feature of Italians. Unique fittings are made for the chosen style.

• innovative approach;
• unique design;
• a large assortment.

• there is no choice of fittings;
• high price.

Fortus

Fortus door blocks stand out from the competition by their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the buyer to assemble a suitable model on their own. There is a choice of door type (single or double-leaf, combined), fittings, locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, the method of finishing. Thanks to the extensive Fortus catalog total number options reaches four digits. The manufacturer meets its customers halfway by making entrance doors custom sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only quality materials as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

• high-quality assembly;
• you can implement any idea;
• smooth running.

• there is no choice of fittings.

Legrand

The original quality of the Legrand entrance door finishing was to the taste of domestic consumers. As a finishing material, the manufacturer used MDF panels, which are processed on modern CNC machines. To increase the service life, it is used polymer coating protecting the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors brings variety to the model range. Some collections are finished with natural wood, which gives the doors aristocracy and exclusivity. Buyers are provided wide choose, starting with the basic equipment and ending with the modified equipment. The door hinges are equipped with bearings for easy movement.

• original finish;
• diverse lineup;
• bearing hinges.

• unreliable corrosion protection;
• poor sound insulation.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the production of entrance doors is the Bastion brand. Products are made according to standard scheme, first, a frame is formed from a square-section metal profile. Then steel sheets are welded to it. The void is filled with basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, is fire resistant. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglar system and anti-detachable hinges. Finishing can also be changed according to client's requests. Glass or glass can decorate the door. wooden elements as well as forged inserts.

• high build quality;
• wide range in different price segments;
• beautiful finish.

• unreliable fittings;
• not the most efficient service.

Both wooden and metal entrance doors require periodic maintenance. Otherwise, their appearance will not meet aesthetic requirements. In order not to regularly spend money on painting and finishing materials, you can finish the structure with leatherette.

Such a peculiar decoration will allow not only to give the proper appearance to the entrance doors, but also to improve the heat and sound insulation of the room several times. In addition, dermantin is characterized by special strength, endurance and sophistication. It will serve long years without losing their original aesthetic and quality properties.

How to upholstery doors with dermantine with your own hands? What nuances should you pay attention to? Why is dermantin considered the most suitable material for decorating wooden and metal doors? More about this.

Properties, features and disadvantages of the material

Dermantin is one of the finishing materials endowed with special properties. It does not fade in the sun, does not crumple or wrinkle, it is quite difficult to damage it. Upholstery of an interior wooden or metal entrance door with dermantine looks beautiful, elegant, expensive and stylish.

The advantages of the material include the following features:

• Moisture resistance. The material is not inclined to accumulate moisture, it perfectly repels it, thereby preventing damage to insulation and waterproofing materials used in the manufacture of door structures.
• Long service life. Dermantin retains its original properties for 7-10 years.
• Simplicity and ease of maintenance. To give the leatherette upholstery a presentable look, it is enough to thoroughly wash it with plain water and periodically lubricate it with a special cream.
• Resistance to ultraviolet radiation... Dermantin does not fade in the sun, therefore it can be used to decorate not only interior structures or doors inside premises, but also entrance groups.
• Resistance to the effects of microflora. The material does not rot and prevents the reproduction of mites or other microorganisms. It does not bloom and mold does not form on it.
• Frost resistance. Even at subzero temperatures, dermantin retains its declared properties and original decorative features.
• Wide variety of colors. The material is offered for sale in several shades. Door trim can be made from brown, gray, black, burgundy, green dermantine - it all depends on taste preferences buyer.
• Possibility chemical cleaning... Dermantin is one of the few finishing materials that stably reacts to the effects of non-aggressive chemical compounds. It can be cleaned using a variety of detergents and compositions.
• Excellent aesthetic appearance. Dermantine door upholstery is presentable, beautiful, elegant and tasteful.
• Affordability. The cost of the material varies within the available limits, so everyone can afford to decorate the doors.

Finishing the entrance and interior door structures with the material in question allows you to solve another major problem that so often worries everyone without exception - the problem of heat and sound insulation.

Dermantin prevents the penetration of cold and noise from the street into the room, which is also important.

Disadvantages of the material:

• Low fire safety. Dermantin spreads fire easily, it is flammable, therefore it increases the risk of fire.
• Unsuitable for repair. If the material has been cut, it cannot be repaired so that it does not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the canvas. The only correct solution in this case would be to replace the dermantin.
• Immunity to mechanical damage. Cutting or tearing the finishing material can be done with little effort.

• Firstly, the material improves the sound and heat insulation of the room.
• Secondly, it allows you to decorate doors without special financial costs.
• Thirdly, it makes the door leaf presentable and original in appearance.
• Fourthly, it serves for many years and is characterized by increased resistance to natural, chemical and mechanical influences.

Dermantin for upholstering metal entrance or interior wooden doors- the best solution for a limited budget.

Technology for decorating door structures

It is very simple to upholster doors with dermantine, therefore, if desired, each of us can cope with this task without resorting to the services of professionals. Do-it-yourself upholstery is performed in several stages:

First stage: preparation of tools. In the course of work, you will need staples equipped with 10 mm legs, a stapler, a knife, a screwdriver, scissors, a glue brush, and a hammer.

Second stage: preparation of materials. To finish the door with dermantine with your own hands, you will need a lining material, upholstery nails of a certain color, glue (if the door leaves are supposed to be upholstered in metal) and the dermantin itself.

Stage three: dismantling the locks. On interior doors very often silent locks are installed. They are much more difficult to remove than ordinary ones. It is very important during dismantling work to adhere to the instructions attached to the mechanism.

Otherwise, the lock after subsequent installation will not work properly or completely fail. To facilitate the task, experts recommend first removing the door from the hinges.

First of all, the locks are dismantled, then the old casing and peephole... During work, safety rules must be observed.

The fourth stage: do-it-yourself upholstery on the inside of the doors. A roller will help to upholster the canvas beautifully with the selected material. It minimizes cracks to honey with the door frame and the door itself. Using a stapler, you need to nail the dermantin to the canvas with the front side.

At the same time, it is important to observe the three-dimensional approach. If the door structure is equipped with overhead locks, the roller is nailed, starting from them, if with mortise locks, the roller is nailed below the middle of the side.

The lining material must be cut into strips, carefully laid and fixed with a stapler on the canvas so that the roller sticks out a few centimeters, based on the location of the door and platbands. After the roller is fixed, you can start finishing the surface with dermantine.

The upper edge of the material is tucked in, laid in the corner of the door structure and nailed down with a decorative nail. All other edges of the material are nailed in the same way. It is necessary not to forget to tighten the dermantin in the process of work.

The fifth stage: finishing with the material of the outer side of the door leaf. Outer side upholstery a little differently. A projection of the door frame is drawn on the canvas with a pencil. It allows you to get an accurate contour of the skin.

First, the lining material is fixed with a stapler with an indent of 1 cm, then the main piece of dermantin is nailed with a decorative nail and an insulating roller is made, which is preliminarily fixed to the door frame.

It is undesirable to nail the bottom roller to the threshold. Over time, constantly touching it will lead to abrasions. The bottom edge of the trim is nailed last and all accessories are mounted.

Step-by-step plan for metal door trim

Using a brush, the perimeter of the door leaf is coated with glue, the lining material is evenly glued to its surface, then from the side of the hinges on top lining material fixed with dermantin glue.