Most. rational decision For an individual developer is the floor concreting on the soil in the form of a floating screed. When using other options (overlapping on beams, PC stove), the underground can accumulate harmful radon, there is often no normal ventilation. Excessive moisture leads to the corrosion of concrete and biological damage to the wood.

The flooring device on the ground in a private cottage is often confused with fill monolithic overlap with support on the base or foundation elements when the bottom failure formwork It serves as falling asleep, but not compacted ground inside the ribbon MZLF. These are different technologies, the differences of which will be discussed below.

The developer should be understood that for specific conditions, the construction of a concrete floor on the soil (GG) should be chosen correctly, based on the conditions:

• floor floors need to create a single base for laying outdoor coating;
• the design is a floating screed that does not touch the walls with the walls of the building and not started under them;

The confusion in the names of technologies occurs for the following reasons:

• the project laid the foundation, the width of which is more wall thickness;
• fencing structures shifted outwards ( inner surface The base, woodworking or tape MZLF does not coincide with the plane of the inner walls).

In this case, the developer is trying to avoid the resulting step, raises the floor level, fills the screed, not only on the soil, but also rests it on the protruding part of the foundation. The backflow of MZLF or paintwork in this case serves as a formwork, but not tumped up properly.

When exploiting the soil under the stove or foundation under the building itself can be asked or climb by the powered by the powers. In the place of supporting the slab on the base there are serious loads, not taken into account in the calculations. Screed burst, flooring comes into disrepair.

It is important to understand that with the device with your own hands the floating screed on the ground, it relies on a tightly rambling soil, can not suit and remove. Therefore, it is sufficient to reinforce the grid into one layer in the lower third of the design. Plates based on the foundation / base elements are always reinforced in two levels. Other tasks are solved by filling the foundation / basement in this variant:

• the developer gets rid of the underground, within which it is necessary to ensure natural ventilation, but low Cocol It does not allow to make it produced in it, since they will be pulled by snow in winter;
• the accumulation within the underground of the harmful gas of radon, the water freezing under the cottage and the heat loss in the floors is reduced;
• the costs of formwork are reduced, since the lower deck is the land that does not need to be sealing the vibropilet.

There is a variant of the floor of the floor to the ground with the "support" on the foundation, but the support occurs through a layer of the foundation, while the soil must be well sealed, i.e. In fact, the floor does not relieve the foundation, because At the expense of the local crumpled of the insulation, all the advantages are leveled on the base of the base. That is why it is not for such a design to take a high density insulation.

Paul in soil with "opirain" on the base.

The concrete floor of the soil has the following design:

• the backflow - the arable layer must be completely removed, the soil, taken out of the MZLF trench, can be used, but only with minimal clay content, the rammed vibrating plate;
• the underlying layer is necessary for an additional alignment, the recommended thickness of 40 cm is created from sand (on dry soils) or rubble with geotextile (with a high AGE), compacted by vibratory (every 10 - 15 cm);
• podcasto - the screed is necessary to protect the waterproofing material from the punctures with sharp edges of rubble, it can be pouring into a skinny (B7.5) concrete solution;
• waterproofing - EPDM films, two-layer polyethylene or a weld rolled bitumen material that prevents the wet of concrete and corrosion of the reinforcement inside it;
• the insulation is enough to do 5 - 10 cm layer of high density polystyrene (Mark XPS or EPPS);
• reinforced concrete - reinforced grid The lower level of the screed from concrete B15 and above (corresponds to M200).
• dampfer layer - on the perimeter, the screed is separated from the walls, basement or foundation by a special ribbon or insulation installed on the edge;
• the compensation seam is necessary in the openings between the rooms, it is arranged by laying special elements (corners) when pouring the structure.

Scheme of the location of compensation seams.

This is the only proper GHG design for a private cottage. However, individual developers are often trying to save on the floor of the floor on the ground, therefore the following options exist:

• in the backstage instead of the soil, clamzit is used - the material is very difficult to compact, but it is light and has thermal insulation properties (But nevertheless, it cannot replace the insulation layer), instead of a sublimation, the surface is shedding cement milk that binds upper layer and makes it suitable for styling waterproofing;
• the exclusion of the submersible - on top of the rubble layer of sand with a thickness equal to two sizes of the maximum fraction of rubble, after which the nonmetallic material is compacted so that there are no traces from the shoes of workers, the waterproofing is stacked on it, but not glued, and seals in places alone on each other .

In private housing projects, partitions are often present and separate structures with high weight (from 400 kg) that have point concentrated loads.

Important! Paul in the soil of the power construction is not, so for furnaces / fireplaces, internal stairs And heavy partitions require an independent foundation, which can be integrated into the floor via the soil or have the kind of piles, plates, pillars.

Foundation options for stairs.

Manufacturing technology

Before making it yourself PG on the above scheme, it is not enough to know its design. It is necessary to take into account the nuances of construction at each stage below. The main misconception is the suitability of PG only for ribbon foundations of a private house.

In fact, the floating screed can be poured in low frame homes on screw and boronobyl piles, classic and tees pillars. In this case, the thickness of the structure and its device remains the same, and PG adjoins the walls on the frame.

Reverse fusion of MLLF for the floor on the soil.

Preparation

The design of the floor on the soil must have a reason with normal carrier ability. PG is made inside the frame or MZLF, whose beams rise above the ground, creating a base part of the foundation. Therefore, the internal cavities will correctly fall asleep with the soil taken out of the trenches belt Fundament, leaving 0.4 m for a nonmetric material.

If there is an arable layer containing a large number of organic, it needs to be removed. Even if we compact with a vibropilet chernozem, after 3-12 months of the organizing agent in it and the soil necessarily will see what is extremely dangerous for concrete, even if reinforced, but not having a binding with the foundation.

Important! At this stage should be processed waterproofing materials (plastering, filled or coating) elements of woodwork, base or foundation, if it was not done earlier.

Communications

In contrast to the foundation floating plate, the entry nodes of engineering systems are mounted with their own hands before filling the underlying layer. The exact location of the walls is already known, as Rollock or MZLF has already been made. Therefore, it is impossible to be mistaken with the passage of the risers in the immediate vicinity of the enclosing structures.

Even when minimum thickness Screed repairability of communications inside PG is practically zero. Therefore, the following technology is used:

• the water supply is plugged at 1 - 1.5 m, since the soil under the cottage cannot freeze (only for dwelling of all-season operation), sewage by 0.7 - 1 m, as the strokes come out of the house warm;
• pipes pass in sleeves or corrugated trumpet larger diameterso that when they are out of order, it was possible to pull out the part of the contour outside or from the inside of the house and replace them with new ones;
• if necessary, it is possible to start the feed electrocabel at a depth of 0.5 m, setting over it the red tape.

Communications inside the underlying layer.

To improve the quality and resource of engineering systems in a private house, you can the device of the underlying layer:

• under plumbing I. sewer pipes trenches are taken off;
• the geotextile is stacked, the edges of which are attached on board generation;
• 5 - 10 cm layer of sand / rubble;
• communications are stacked;
• fall asleep with the same nonmetallic material on top and sides;
• they are hidden by the residues of geotextile and fall asleep soil.

This will make it possible to compensate for possible powers and maintain the integrity of engineering systems.

Locking layer

The dumping of the upper layer with nonmetallic material refers to technology that allows liquidation of powered forces. Crushed stone and sand have drainage properties, serve as a damper layer of sex on the ground, normally compacted by vibrating plates and do not delete over time.

Sand preparation of sex on the soil.

However, these materials absorb cement milk from concrete and do not allow normally sealing the joints of the rolled waterproofing. Therefore, on top of the underlying layer, it is necessary to pour a sweeping - 3 - 5 cm tie from the mixture of the brand of 7.5.

Waterproofing and insulation

After a durability set on its surface, rolled bitumen materials with flax bands 10 - 15 cm. The edges are launched on vertical surfaces Scarlet or ribbon foundation of a private cottage to the height of the floor on the soil.

Waterproofing and insulation of PG.

The optimal version of the insulation for the design of the GHG design is a high-pass polystyrene foam extruded XPS or EPPS grades. It does not delete, retains properties in water and has high vapor barrier properties.

Important! With the indicated "Pie" floor on the ground, the insulation remains under concrete, the design has a high heat inertia (accumulates heat, but also increases the energy consumption in the heating boiler during primary warming).

Reinforcement and warm floor

Due to the fact that the concrete floor of the soil perceives exclusively compressive loads, its lower layer must be reinforced to compensate for the destruction of stretching efforts. For this, a wire mesh is used from the rods with a diameter of 4 mm with a cell of 10 x 10 cm, according to the joint venture 63.13330 (reinforced concrete structures).

Floor reinforcement on the soil.

According to the Rules of the above joint venture, the PG concreting should be carried out in compliance with the conditions:

• lower protective layer of concrete 1.5 cm minimum;
• to ensure it, the grid is placed on polymer or concrete bins, it is forbidden to use metals and crushed stone;
• when increasing the grid, the nest is 10 cm minimum (one cell).

If a warm floor (TP) is laid into the project, its contours are stacked over the reinforcement grid, the thickness of the floating screed automatically increases.

Concreting

• the grid is forbidden to trim;
• to skip the rod through the partition, you will have to cut the required number of grooves in the shield;
• install formwork in the place and make the remaining slots;
• to navigate the septum of the bar on one side to create a ledge in concrete for a bundle with the next piece of screed.

Before the fill, a device of a damper layer is needed. To do this, around the perimeter of PG is installed vertically close to the foundation of a private cottage pieces of thin (1 cm) polystyrene foam, protruding for the design level of the floor or perimeter is covered with a damper ribbon that performs the same function.

Dampfer layer for floating screed.

The mixture is stacked from the distress of the angle to the concrete mixer. Then compacted by vibration, is leveled by the Rule of Lighthouses.

Nuances of technology

The strength of the floors on the soil affects the brand of concrete, the sequence of operations and the materials used. However, exist general features When concreting the adjoining sites, platforms for supporting heavy structures and light partitions.

Promotion nodes

In order to reduce the heat lifting in the floors as much as much as possible, the insulation on the outer edge of the base and the foundation should be associated with thermal insulation material inside the walls or on their outer surface (ventilated facade or wet facade) Without cold bridges.

Wall insulation and base for eliminating cold bridges.

Partitions and walls

Since the floors on the soil by force design are not, under bearing walls and heavy partitions need to fill separate foundation. Another option is the ribs of stiffness along these walls, directed toward the soil by analogy with the Swedish stove of the UCP.

Enough complex case are partitions from GLC on the floor on the soil:

• on the one hand, PG needs to be separated from the septum by a damper layer, that is, to make a screed after installing the partition;
• on the other hand, the systems from drywall should be erected after the end of the wet processes, otherwise the material will absorb moisture and will lose rigidity, strength.

Therefore, a combined technique is applied:

• the foundation is mounted frame from the profile;
• a narrow band of plasterboard is fastened, the width of which is equal to the height of the floating screed;
• a damper tape is glued on it or expanded polystyrene foam;
• the screed is poured, after which the partitions are drying with drywall completely.

Mounting frame for partition.

This avoids the wetting of plasterboard when the concrete is drying and maintain the properties of structural materials.

Stairs and power equipment

Internal building structures may have a significant weight and render concentrated loads on small sites. Therefore, for fireplaces, inter-storey stairs, pumping equipment, furnaces and boilers It is necessary to make a separate foundation separately or increase the thickness of the floor slab on the soil.

Thus, the individual developer can apply the floor technology for low frame and MZLF tape to reduce the construction budget and operating costs, increase the comfort of living.

Tip! If you need repair masters, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description the works that need to be completed and offers to you will come from prices from construction brigades and firms. You can see the reviews about each of them and photos with examples of work. This is free and does not oblige anything.

Updated: 02/19/2019

May differ from, although concrete differences depend on:

• level of groundwater;
• planned load on the floor;
• use of the technology of "warm floor".

If underground waters run closer than 2 meters from the surface, then the presence of waterproofing is necessarily as well as the "pillows" of sand and large-scale rubble. The use of the "warm floor" implies a 2-centimeter thermal gap between concrete and walls, otherwise the fill may be damaged during operation.

The fill procedure must be performed in compliance with a number of requirements:

• soil should not be mobile;
• underground waters should run at least 5 meters;
• the land must be dry.

In winter, the room should be heated, otherwise the design can be deformed due to the frosting of the soil and, as a result, mechanical loads will increase.

Note! If we are talking about the still under construction, the floor device should be started only after the roof is ready. So subsequent work will be made as high quality.

Stage 1. Determination of the "zero" level

First, determine the "zero" (level of filling the solution), which should be equal to the bottom of the doorway, and mark it around the perimeter. To do this, snap the mark in the meter from the bottom of the opening (as shown in the diagram) and transfer them to the walls of the whole room (it is obvious that it is better to use the laser level for this). Next, from these marks, measure back 1 meter down and draw the second line - it will be "zero", which will be filling the floor. In order to simplify the procedure, hammer the corners of the nails and stretch the cord.

Stage 2. Preparation of the foundation

After determining the "zero" level, remove the construction trash and remove the fertile layer of soil. The floor in our case will be a multi-layer "pie" approximately 35 cm thick. Consequently, remove the soil until the depth from the "zero level" is compared with the thickness of the future "cake".

Next, see the surface. It is advisable to use a vibroplite for this, although in its absence you can take a normal meter log, to bring down the board from below, and from above - two handles, and with the help of such a tool to seal the soil. As a result, it should be smooth and, most importantly, a dense basis. From walking on such a base should not be traces.

Note! If it happens that the soil level is lower than 35 cm, just remove a little fertile layer, sink and pour sand to the desired mark. Then compact the sand itself.

To increase the waterproofing properties of the base, plump the "native" soil first layer clay, then sand, water and thoroughly compact.

Stage 3. Further Faucet

Having finished with the main layer, start the filling of gravel. Put the material with a layer of 10 cm, Pour and sink. To facilitate the thickness control in the base, score a number of pegs of the required thickness and set them on a single level. At the end of the mumbling pull them out.

Sand covers a similar layer of rubble (the latter fractions should be approximately 5 cm). Seal crushed stone, sprinkle with a thin sand layer, align and confuse. If we noticed that the protruding edges of the rubble remained on the surface, then remove them or save them differently. Remember that as a result should be a flat plane without any angles.

Note! Check each covered layer by mounting level.

Stage 4. Insulation

For waterproofing, you can use the insulating membrane or a conventional polyethylene film, the thickness of which will be 200 microns. Cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room with an overlap in a few centimeters, edges output a little higher than the "zero" level. All joints creek scotch.

Materials for thermal insulation There are quite a lot, you can choose any. So, for concrete floor it may come in:

• ceramzit;
• isolon;
• styrofoam;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• minvata, basalt wool;
• perlite;
• polystyrene foam (both ordinary and extruded).

Stage 5. Reinforcement

In order for the future floor to be strong enough, it should be reinforced. You can use both metal and plastic mesh for this, and if large loads are planned, then rebuild reinforcement rods with a thickness of 0.8-1.6 cm by welding.

Do not fit the reinforcement directly on the "Pie" base. Use small pegs ("chairs") - put them in rows, substituting under each plate carved from asbestos to raise at least 20 mm at least 20 mm. In this case, the reinforcement will be inside a concrete screed and forms one whole with it.

Note! When using a plastic mesh, pull it on pegs scored in the ground, with a similar goal.

Stage 6. Formwork and guides

In order to withstand "zero" and facilitate the fill procedure, install the guides. Initially, divide the room to the same segments of a width of no more than 2 m, after which divide them by guides. For the manufacture of the latter, you can use both bars or boards and iron pipes. Watch that the height of the guides is "zero". Fix them with dense cement mortar.

Then proceed to installing the formwork between the guides, forming special "cards" (the same rectangles, the dimensions of which are soaring in such a way that each of them is flooded in one approach). The use of "cards" will significantly simplify work, especially on a large area, and will help withstand "zero". For the manufacture of "cards", use fresh boards (not dry) or moisture-resistant faeer.

Note! Align guide with formwork under the "zero" level, in otherwise The floor may turn out uneven. Use for this building level. Also treat these elements with special oil (such as "agate-C5") so that it can be easily removed from concrete.

Stage 7. Preparation of the solution and fill

Fill the solution to the maximum for two navigations, although it is advisable to do it for one. To this end, you can order a "factory" concrete (it will be delivered immediately in large quantities) or cooking yourself (it will cost cheaper). If you resort to the second option, you will need:

• shovel;
• concrete mixer (can be leased);
• "Four hundredth" or "five hundred" cement;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• one helper.

Brand concrete	Mass composition, C: P: Sh, kg	Volume composition on 10 l cement p / sh, l
100	1: 4,6: 7,0	41/61	78
150	1: 3,5: 5,7	32/50	64
200	1: 2,8: 4,8	25/42	54
250	1: 2,1: 3,9	19/34	43
300	1: 1,9: 3,7	17/32	41
400	1: 1,2: 2,7	11/24	31
450	1: 1,1: 2,5	10/22	29

Brand concrete	Mass composition C: P: Sh, kg	Volume composition for 10 liters of cement p / sh, l	The number of concrete from 10 l cement, l
100	1: 5,8: 8,1	53/71	90
150	1: 4,5: 6,6	40/58	73
200	1: 3,5: 5,6	32/49	62
250	1: 2,6: 4,5	24/39	50
300	1: 2,4: 4,3	22/37	47
400	1: 1,6: 3,2	14/28	36
450	1: 1,4: 2,9	12/25	32

Video - how to knead the concrete mix or how to make concrete

For the preparation of the solution, pour cement in the concrete mixer, sand, crushed stone and water in the ratio of 1: 2: 4: 0.5 and mix everything until the homogeneous mass is obtained. Pour ready-made solution from the opposite entrance door corner. By filling out several "cards", align the solution with a shovel and distribute it around the perimeter. To seal concrete, use the vibrator - it not only compact the mixture, but also remove air bubbles from it.

Having treated with a vibrator flooded cards, start aligning. To do this, you will need a 3-meter rule - put the instrument on the guides and pull on yourself. So you remove the surplus of the solution. In the wired "cards", dismantle the formwork and fill in the formed emptiness concrete. When the entire floor is flooded, cover it with a polyethylene film and leave for two or three weeks to completely dry, do not forget to periodically make the surface with water.

After this time, you can apply a mixture by the finished floor, which is able to smooth out small defects and make the surface perfectly smooth. Wait three more days until this mixture is dry.

Such gender is distinguished by the presence of air layer between the soil and the screed, which is advisable in those areas where the level of soil moisture is raised, i.e. if underground water is closer than 2 meters from the surface. Also, this technology can be used in the case when the site is in the northern region of the country, and the heating system will work periodically.

Note! It is very important that the soil level be below the concrete floor is at least 10-15 cm. If the gap is large, then heat loss will increase, and if less, the ventilation will be less efficient.

Consider what the technology of floor arrangement in this case differs from the above.

Stage 1. Preparation

First prepare the soil.

Step 1. Remove the floral layer and pour out the usual soil instead. Pour the soil with water and confuse so that the height of the layer is approximately 15 cm.

Step 2. Push up on top of gravel, re-swivering.

Step 3. The finished base is covering a chubnevo-lime mixture (although it can be replaced by a broken brick or, for example, construction garbage).

Further at the same distance from each other (about 70-100 cm) set brick columns under lags. Use a red brick for this, but in no case is not silicate. By installing the columns, cover each of them rubkeroid for the purpose of waterproofing, and on top of it attach the bars of the 3-centimeter thickness previously treated with an antiseptic agent.

Stage 3. Lagi.

For the manufacture of lags, use halves of logs, also covered with antiseptic. The joints between lags should be located above the columns, but the extreme lags will place 2-3 cm from the walls of the walls. Check the lags with the level, if necessary, put the wooden bars under them. Remember: the maximum allowable horizontal irregularity in this case is only 3 mm.

Note! Instead of bricks for columns, metal pipes can be used.

Stage 4. Further actions

To lags to bring nails hand board. Try to make the boards to be extremely tight. If desired, you can use a more reliable scheme:

• 1 layer - non-cut boards;
• 2 layer - waterproofing;
• 3 layer - floorboards.

Subsequent stages of fillings are no different from those described above.

Note! Underground required quality ventilation, Therefore, do in the corners of the windows for ventilation with dimensions of 100x100 mm. Close the windows with metal gratings. In the base, equip special products (at least two on the room).

Video - Floor Arrangement

This set of rules applies to the design of floors of industrial, warehouse, residential, public, administrative, sports and household buildings. Free download

Almost all modern floor coverings are demanding on the ground. For soft basic requirement - strength, because the soft base is sooner or later collapsed under load. Under the tight bases require the perfect plane, otherwise they can break through. Therefore, many make a decision to make concrete floor in a private house. If everything is done correctly, it will be warm, quiet, dry and put any coating.

Recently, even in private homes have become increasingly making concrete floor. It's all in the capriciousness of wood. The first thing that is important is a regular care for wood. If not a larch or oak is used, in a few years appearance leaves much to be desired. Again the floor has to grind, cover with oil / wax / paint / varnish. The second drawback is the screens. Non-closing wooden floor is a rarity. The third moment: put the tile on the wooden floor, of course, it is possible, but the decision is not cheap - you need elastic glue, and it's worth it as much. In general, agreed with a wooden floor, decide to replace it with concrete. There is your "charms", but in operation it is easier. Only under the condition that is done correctly.

At all, it does not draw an imagination with the words "wooden floor" ...

The first thing to remember is to make a concrete floor in a private house, only if the foundation can take an additional load. If a wooden floor has been laid when calculating the foundation, all that you can do is a reinforced screed across the draft wooden semi. And then in question. Most likely, you will have to do simply dry tie clay or put sheet Material on lags. This, of course, is not concrete floor, but not wooden.

Concrete floor

Make a concrete floor by soil in two ways. The first method is more reliable, but expensive. He implies a backstage and concrete base. The second is cheaper, but less reliable. It can not be used for any coating. Only under the types that do not prevent strength requirements.

Concrete floor in a private house is good because it is possible to put any coating on it ... and it does not creak

With concrete base

This type of concrete cake allows you to lay any finish coating - ceramic tiles, vinyl coating, parquet, allows you to do floor heating. It provides high level moisture protection good level Heat insulation. The layer looks like this (bottom / up):

• compacted soil;
• gravel 40-60 mm;
• concrete preparation (at 7.5);
• paro and moisture insulation;
• insulation;
• reinforced screed (floating), brand M 100 or M 150.

Any type of flooring can be laid on. With an insufficiently smooth screed, you may need a layer of leveling screed from a series of bulk floors. In the reinforced screed, pipes for water heating of the floor can be laid, or electric warm floor.

Compacted primer

If you have a soil on the plot well, you can not make an inverse backfill, and the death of sand. On Suglink, clay, in the black earth layer, the backflow of the soil is obligatory. If we fall asleep sand on such soils, water will be fling into this zone, as the drainage around is much worse. Thus, we artificially create under the floor with a large puddle, which will feed rains, melting snow ... Therefore, we fall asleep the back of the ground, grow up and the trambra.

Soil pour out with layers no more than 20-25 cm, each layer is tamped by vibrating (tamping) weighing 100-150 kg. Large layer she does not "break." The number of layers depends on the height of the foundation and the thickness of the remaining layers. It is desirable that the finishing floor level be higher than the laid foundation waterproofing. But then the base must be insulated higher.

Layer rubble

Crushed stone (not gravel) take a large fraction - 50-60 mm. It is distributed through the compacted soil and are also sealing with the help of a traam. Not just to dissolve and leave, it is to drive crushed stone to the top layer of the soil. This significantly increases the density of the foundation, minimizing the appearance of large cracks due to shrinkage.

Just pour rubble and dissolve it - it does not give anything. In addition to lifting the level, no other role does not play such a layer. And cheaper to raise height with backfill. And rubble you need to drive into the ground so that in a bundle with the earth, he formed a dense and durable base Under concrete fill.

So that the consumption of concrete was less, it is desirable to align this level into the horizon.

Concrete base

A concrete preparation is flooded over the soil compacted. It is needed as a base for paro and waterproofing. Insulating materials Do not differ great strength. Putting them just on the compacted ground, we have a big chance to get holes. They will definitely appear, since on top of this layer it is necessary to lay and exhibit the reinforcing grid, and this is a significant amount of work. And isolation with holes - non-working insulation. Therefore, if you do not want dampness in the house, you need to make a concrete base.

For this layer, it is possible to apply the concrete of a low density brand - at 7.5. If there is a desire or necessity (high level groundwater), The solution can be made with reduced absorbability. To do this, additives "Penetron", Penetron Admiix and other similar ones are introduced into the solution.

Penetron Admix is \u200b\u200bused as an additive to concrete at the preparation stage for obtaining hydraulic concrete. Provides waterproof of concrete and reinforced concrete structures at the stage of concreting; Concrete and reinforced concrete products - at the production stage. Increases the indicators of waterproof and frost resistance of concrete. Protects the design from the effects of aggressive media: acids, alkalis, waste and groundwater, sea water

Concrete floor in a private house on the soil: Hydro and vaporizolation

A pairo and waterproofing is stacked on the concrete base. Pay attention - protection must be not only from water penetration. Need more protection from steam. There must be a material that will not allow evaporation from the soil into the house. What is this layer? Soil under the house has a specific natural humidity. In winter, with a plus temperature in the house, moisture will strive from a colder area (in the ground) to a warmer (in the house). Therefore, the concrete base is definitely spread parosolation material. We also need protection against moisture. So these can be materials with combined properties or two layers of different.

The cheapest option is a dense polyethylene film. But it should be put as it is sold - sleeve. Neighboring canvases must be superimposed on each other, by 15 cm, joints to sample bilateral scotch. The reliability of the priced compounds is very important. You can even additionally use silicone formulations. It is necessary that the moisture from the soil in it remains. And still. Film - not too reliable material. If it is possible, it is better to lay a runner (attacked on a concrete base and on the walls), even better - something from new vapor-waterproofing.

In the flooring of hydropara insulation there are subtlety: it must be displayed above the waterproofing, which is laid on the foundation. That is, when laying, the material is started on the walls of the foundation, there are materials to be fixed, follow the edges not falling off in the process of work. It turns out a peculiar trough, in which the insulation is stacked and the screed is poured. Only then protection will work effectively, the concrete floor in a private house will be dry.

Another point. When laying a vapor barrier, leave in the corners (where the material on the walls is wrapped) some amount of material in the form of folds. This will reduce the likelihood that too stretched film or other material will be bored with random hit by board, reinforcement, etc.

Questions may arise when you can lay vapor barrier. If there is time, wait until the base is dry to the working condition. This will not be 15-18%. No time - continue after the concrete can be walking. This is 48-72 hours.

Insulation

Top waterproofing is placed insulating material. Anyone that can be laid under the tie. IN last years Increasingly put polystyrene foam. It has good heat insulating characteristics, it does not conduct water / pairs, with sufficient density can be laid under concrete slab. He has one disadvantage: in some species (not all manufacturers) can be selected insects and mice.

Use mineral wool is hardly worth it, as it is afraid of moisture. It is impossible to guarantee its complete absence, so it is better not to risk. There is another not too much famous material - foam-glass. He has thermal insulation characteristics even better than polystyrene foam, moisture does not spend in any form, and no one lives in it. Lack one - price. It is two times higher than that of the non-cheat polystyrene foam.

AND final stage - So that the concrete floor in the house is smooth, it is usually required to fill the leveling screed. At this stage, equalizing compositions are used, which are poured with a thin layer and level all the flaws.

How to make concrete floor economy option

As already told, if you make a concrete floor in a private house according to the algorithm described above, we obtain the base suitable for laying any type of coverage. But there is plenty of money. If you need to make an inexpensive concrete floor of the soil, some layers can be omitted. Such a filling technology of concrete sex is good for cottages, baths, guest house, utility rooms, etc.

Note! Apply this technology to the fill of concrete floors, possibly with not too deep foundation. It works normally with a backfill depth of no more than 20 cm.

The concrete floor cake then looks different (layers from bottom to top):

This option is quite viable. Clay serves as a waterproofing layer. The film laid on it is likely to remain a whole. But you have to be neat. It is already advisable to make a tie concrete with low absorbent ability. That is, it is necessary to use additives that reduce the conductivity of water and steam.

In addition, on a concrete floor in a private house made by such a "recipe", it is undesirable to lay expensive coatings. Still, the likelihood of moisture penetration is great. Another moment: if the technology does not prohibit, the laying of waterproofing is desirable (all the same film or something more serious).

How to pour concrete on a wooden floor

If we talk about how to make it right, then everything should be disassembled, and make one of the options described above. As a temporary solution, you can consider the fill of the screed over the adhesive floor. If you are sure that the lags in normal condition, There is ventilating boards from below. If under your weight of the board begging, even thinking about the screed is contraindicated.

You are confident that everything is good, wood in good condition, then you can do this:

If warming is needed - extruded polystyrene foam is put on the film. So you can pour concrete on the wooden floor. But the decision from the category "so-so". It is not clear whether the boards will endure, as lags will behave under an additional very considerable load. In addition, it is necessary to minimize possible wood movements. Add Fiber CSP to minimize cracks. And it is better to use special elastic compositions - bulk floors for wooden floors. But they have one drawback - a high price.

Outdoor coating is one of the most important components of any room. Today, the foundations of concrete are particularly popular. They are distinguished by durability and practicality, which allows them to apply them to different types houses. Concrete floor on the soil in a private house is perfect for solving many tasks. The design perfectly perceives the load, and also serves a long time without losing its original qualities.

Features

Concrete floors in a private house began to apply relatively recently. It was previously believed that they were rather cold and not able to provide the optimal level of insulation indoors. But today they began to complement warm batteries For heating.

Technically pour on the soil the concrete base can be even without a certain experience. The floors of this type are a conventional screed, which is located directly on the soil or a small pillow. And so that it can withstand high loads, its thickness exceeds 10 cm. This parameter may vary in a very wide range, as it depends on several factors.

Concrete perfectly passes moisture and temperature. Therefore, use similar surfaces should only be used in private houses that are heated in winter. If you leave such a design in the cold, then sooner or later water will simply break the material and cracks will appear. This will lead to the failure of the upper decorative coatingwhich also want to collapse after the expiry of a certain time.

To exclude these phenomena, you need to additionally form several layers of thermal insulation from all sides of the screed.

Pros and cons

The soil itself is a mobile structure that affects almost everything that is located on it. But concrete floors on the soil have many advantages over other types of foundations:

1. Relatively low cost. You can form a screed at any time, simply by cooking a mixture of materials available at any store.
2. The surface after frozen does not require additional alignment or strengthening. It can easily be used for mounting ornamental floor products.
3. The material is tightly adjacent to the soil, which eliminates the formation of the fungus due to lack large number air.
4. Durability. Concrete surfaces Serve much longer than wood or the same reinforced concrete plates.

But the floor is not distinguished by unique technical characteristicssince it has several flaws:

1. After laying a layer of solution, a significant amount of useful space is lost. Sometimes this indicator can reach 60 cm in height.
2. The need to arrange high-quality waterproofing. This, in turn, affects not only financial costs, but also on the complexity of operations.
3. Floors are not compatible with the column and pile foundation. Such an approach does not allow to achieve high strength and protection of material from damage.
4. If there is communication channels inside the screed, then their repair will cost expensive and labor.

Requirements for the fields

The designs of this type are an important building element. Therefore, several standards and rules have been developed for it. All these norms can be found in the SNiP document 2.03.13-88. Concrete floors must meet the following regulatory requirements:

• Installation of a screed is possible only on soils, which are characterized by stability and high density. It is not recommended to perform the fill when the soil can do under the influence of groundwater or large precipitation. The soil before installation should be qualitatively compact.

• Application of intake is possible only for the raven bases. Proper to apply for such purposes of sand or gravel. The thickness of them is calculated on the basis of loads on the floor.
• If there is a lot of capillary channels in the soil, then it is desirable to lay waterproofing on top of the intake. If this is not done, the moisture will rise up and destroy the bottom layer of concrete in the residential room. Such operations should be taken when the groundwater level is not deeper than 2-3 m.
• For unheated non-residential premises Thermal insulation does not apply. If the house is planned to heat, it is necessary to complement the floor with a thick layer of thermal insulation materials.

Device

Concrete floor is a multi-layered design. Such a structure allows the optimal ratio of strength and durability. This "Pie" consists of such layers:

• backfilling. The lowest layer, which is directly soil. Note that during the construction of the floors is removed by the turf, and in its place they fall asleep the soil without plants impurities. It gives up sealing special vibromascres.
• Litter. The main components of this layer is sand or crushed stone (complemented by geotextile layer). The optimal thickness of the materials after pressing is about 40 cm.

• Podcast. This layer is concrete screed, about 10 cm thick. It is protective and support, and also additionally aligns the base.
• Waterproofing layer and insulation. As waterproofing, special films based on polyethylene are used, as well as liquid bitumen and more. Optimal insulation The polystyrene foam is considered to 10 cm thick. It is important to use high density materials only (EPPS and so on).

• Dampfer tape. It is placed around the perimeter of the foundation. It compensates for the expansion of the upper concrete layer.
• Top screed. This layer is made of durable concrete, which are additionally reinforced with a metal grid. To prevent rapid cracking, the so-called compensation seams are formed on the entire floor surface.

Please note that such a concrete floor structure is not always used.

Some layers can be thrown away, and crushed stone, for example, replaced with a clayjit or other product.

Make a solution

The main component of the floor is concrete that should be prepared. You can do it with your own hands at home. The preparation algorithm manually consists of such consecutive operations:

• Preparation of capacity. Initially, you should find a metal bowl where the components will be mixed. Its volume is selected depending on your needs and speed.

• Mixing components. To do this, determine the brand of concrete you want to use. Based on these data, the ratio of all products in the future mixture is obtained. After that, they fall asleep in the bowl. To simplify mixing, you can position the components by layers. When everything is prepared, you need to thoroughly mix the sandy-gravel mixture until the homogeneous mass is obtained.
• Obtaining a solution. This process involves adding water to the mixture. Pouring fluid should be gradually and small portions. During this, periodic mixing of components to a homogeneous liquid mass is performed. The thickness is determined by the eye. It is important that the solution is not too liquid, as it will break.

Technology Pouring

The formation of concrete sex on the soil is a rather complicated procedure that requires compliance with such a sequence of actions:

• First of all a draft base is prepared. To do this, remove the top layer of the soil, and the tight soil is placed in his place, which was obtained after digging the pit under the foundation. Try to completely remove the soil containing the organic, as it overload over time and will see. After alignment, this layer is necessarily compacted by vibrating plates.

• At this stage perform gasket Communications. This includes pipes for water supply, which should be located directly on the ground. The wiring is performed according to the layout, which takes into account the location of all household appliances connected to the centralized supply of water. Many experts recommend to hide the pipes deep into no more than 1 m. When installing it is important to constantly control the quality of the docking of the elements, since their repair after the fill to make it will be difficult. Similarly, can be laid electrical cablesIf they need to be hidden inside the floor.

• When all communications are laid, perform laying the litter. It will serve as the basis for concrete. Its thickness is about 50 cm. Put the gravel-sand mix with layers (crushed stone, sand). It is important after each layer location to seal the material by vibropilet. On top of the sand, it is necessary to pour the screed with a thickness of up to 5 cm. It will act as the basis for waterproofing.

• On top of a rough concrete floor fasten special bituminous lists . In places of docking, they must form a total of up to 15 cm. The material necessarily covers the foundation itself so that under the concrete it does not have to correct the sheets. On top of the waterproofing laid a layer of insulation. For this, dense expanded polystyrene is cut by sheets and evenly distribute on the surface. Try to minimize the size of the slots in the places of docking the polymer substance.

• At this stage perform floor reinforcement Using a metal mesh. It is formed from the rod of reinforcement, which combine plastic clamps or metal wires with each other. The cell size should be approximately 10x10 cm. The optimal version will be the armature with a diameter of 4 mm, which perceives the compression load perfectly. If not to use reinforcement, then the floor will crack and will come to unsuitability.

Please note that the bottom of the wire should not touch the insulation. Therefore, the entire grid is raised above the surface with the help of special plastic bolsters. If inside the room is planned to form a warm floor, then all items need to be located directly on the reinforcement.

It is important that the cable does not intersect with them, as this can lead to overheating and rapid failure.

• Concreting. This procedure begins with formwork installation. For this, all vertical supports are located only in the middle of the room, breaking it on the zones. Do not fix them along the walls. Please note that the grid is not recommended to short. The wire must enter the formwork, in which cuts should be taken under it along the entire length of the design.

When everything is ready, filling the floor from scratch. It is important to do everything at once to form monolithic design. Alignment of the screed occurs on the previously installed beacons or relative to the walls on the walls. Before the fill, it is necessary to secure the damper tape along all the walls. It can be purchased at any construction store or make out small pieces of polystyrene.

The finishing floor of the floor occurs only after the complete drying of the concrete. This period can last from 1 to 2 months depending on the thickness of the screed.

If you wish, you can poll the surface and get a qualitative base for laminate or parquet.

In order for the house to be cozy and comfortably live, it should be high-quality, durable, wear-resistant, reliable and durable floor.

Very popular with flooring in a private house, uses concrete coatingwhich makes on soil. Such a solution has a multi-layered structure and fully meets the requirements of it.

Make such a floor is simple with your own hands, but before proceeding to perform work, you need to know the requirements that are presented to the concrete coating made on the soil:

• the soil should be dry, dense and fixed;
• before creating a floor, you need to decide on the loads that it will withstand;
• sliding groundwater should be no closer than 4-5 m to the surface;
• the floor must be waterproof and insulated.

If the groundwater closer closer 2 m to the surface, the pillow from rubble and sand is mandatory.

If you plan to install a warm floor system, with the arrangement of concrete coating, be sure to leave the gap between it and the wall, which should be 15-20 mm, otherwise during operation, the concrete base is damaged.

Experts recommend to equip the concrete floor on the ground only in the case when the house constantly live, and it is heated. In not heated room in winter time Soil can freezeThe structure of the breakdown will begin to operate, which can lead to its destruction.

Main advantages Concrete floor on the soil:

• simple and easy to mount;
• high rates of strength, reliability and wear resistance;
• high frost resistance;
• suitable for a warm floor device;
• low cost.

Fill with your own hands

If you decide to independently create a concrete floor of the soil, it is necessary to comply with its laying technology, use quality materials.

Creating such a coating includes the following steps:

• surface preparation;
• filling floor;
• finishing;
• cutting seams and sealing.

Although it takes a lot of money to create a concrete floor on the soil, but consider that this is a rather laborious process.

Such a coating has a multi-layer structure, which usually consists of the following layers: soil, sand pillow, crumples, waterproofing layer, chernovaya screed, vapor barrier layer, insulation, reinforcing layer, pure screed.

Preparatory work

When the zero markup is marked, it must be in the lower part of the doorway, with the help of a laser level, the marks are made around the perimeter of the room. The soil must be cleaned and well seal.

Such a coating is obtained multilayer and its thickness is usually within 35-50 cm. This must be taken into account and remove the soil to the necessary depth from the zero level.

Soil seal is convenient to bring with the help of vibrating platesBut if you do not have it, you can use a log or other heavy item.

Tamping is carried out until the mark will remain on the soil during walking. To align the surface, you can lay a layer of sand, which is also well trambed.

To ensure high waterproofing characteristics, you can Cover the soil with clay layer. It will also be trambed, and so that this process is to pass better, the surface is slightly moistened.

The clay layer will protect the floor from the penetration of groundwater. The next step is laying layer gravelHis thickness is about 5-7 cm, which is also well tumped.

To make it easier for you to control the thickness of each layer, pegs are driven into the soil, set them up, and after performing backfills, they are removed.

At the next stage do sand pillow 8-10 cm thick so that the sand is easier to rub, it is also recommended to water water. In order to make high-quality floor in a private house, when performing a substrate, its horizontal is controlled by level.

Waterproofing and pouring a rough screed

To protect the concrete floor from moisture ingress, it is necessary spend waterproofing work . Usually it is used for this polyethylene film or you can take waterproofing membrane.
The selected material is completely covered with the entire surface of the room, while neutrals are made of cloths at least 15-20 mm and the lamb should be 20-30 mm on the walls. All the places of compound are cloths are highly sealed with a tape.
Now you can stylingSince it is low requires it, they make it from not very durable concrete, the thickness of such a screed is about 40-50 mm.

Vaporizoation and floor insulation

After the blacks screed finds, you can move to laying a vaporizolation layer, for this usually polymer-bitumen membranes are usedBut maybe another option.

To ensure maximum thermal insulation characteristics of such a floor, its need to insulate. This uses such heat insulation materials as mineral wool, crumples, isolon, perlite, foam and others.

Reinforcement

If it is assumed that high loads will be provided on the floor, it is recommended to reinforce it. For this can be applied metal or plastic grid , You can make it from wire and fittings yourself. The reinforcing layer is exhibited on the backups so that it does not take 2-3 cm to the insulation.

Installation of guide elements, formwork and fill finish screed

To make the floor horizontal, you must install the guide elements and make a formwork. The entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room is divided into the same sections and put the bars on the markup, which will be in the level with a zero mark.

For fixing guides, a cement or clay solution can use. The formwork is performed from moisture-resistant plywood and create honeycombs that will ensure the fill exactly at zero level.

To make the guides and formwork, it was easier to remove, before setting beacons to the floor, they are recommended to be pre-lubricated with machine oil.

In order for the floor to be monolithic, it is necessary to spend it at a time. Concrete can be purchased ready or make it yourself. If you are doing concrete yourself, then it will take 1 part of cement M 500, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of rubble and 0.5 parts of water. All components are placed in the concrete mixer and mix well to get a homogeneous mass.

Floor concreting starts from a long corner, concrete is recomposed and tram a vibrator so that the air will be removed from it, and emptiness has not been formed. For alignment, the screed use the rule. After the fill, the guides and formwork are removed, and the formed emptiness are poured with concrete. Thus, the fill of the entire room is carried out.

After laying a screed, the floor is covered with polyethylene so that it is evenly hardened, it will take about 28 days. During this period, it must be possible to periodically be watered, otherwise he can crack.

Attention!

If a small flaws were revealed during the pouring screed, they can be eliminated using a small layer of self-leveling mixture, it will take 3-5 days for it.

Finish work

After filling the floor, there should be 3-7 hours and you can start a coarse grip with a clutter machine, after which finish clamp is held concrete base . Since concrete is inclined to cracking and to prevent it, it is possible to cut deformation seams that can be several species:

• insulation, they are made near the walls and in those places where the floor comes into contact with fixed elements, they prevent vibrations;
• shrinking, they allow you to remove the tension that occurs during hardening and shrinkage of concrete;
• structural seams are made in places of the new and old concrete floor.

Cutting seams is carried out after the concrete hardens enough, make marking and cut them to a depth, which is 1/3 of the thickness of the concrete layer. To strengthen the edges of the seams, they are filled with sealant and leave the floor until complete hardening.

To make it easier for you to perceive zero level, on the markup you need to pull a special cord. Everything preparatory operations It is necessary to spend carefully and efficiently.

In order to securely protect the floor from the penetration of groundwater into it, it is recommended to lay the clay layer and it is good to ram.

During the execution of work, after laying each layer, check its horizontality, then it will be easier to get a high-quality and even finishing coating.

conclusions

You can make a modern concrete floor in the house on the soil with your own hands, but for this it is necessary to clearly comply with the technology of its creation and all stages of work to perform carefully and efficiently.

If you do everything right, then you will get a durable and durable floor, which will be the perfect base for any finish coating.

Useful video

All stages of the creation of sex on the soil

In contact with