The preparation of the strawberry garden usually begins in the summer. At the end of July or in August, it's time to decide on the method of forming ridges, choose a site, prepare soil and fertilizers. Not sure where to start to properly prepare your strawberry garden? This means that our today's article is for you.

Everyone's favorite berry is grown by the most different ways... And how many options for the beds gardeners use - do not count! Here are some of them:

• simple bulk;
• high;
• trenches;
• pyramidal;
• vertical;
• decorative.

Each species has its pros and cons, and we will talk about them. But first, you and I have to find out which soil strawberries prefer, where and how best to place the beds, what fertilizers must be applied to the soil before planting.

Where to plant strawberries: choosing a place for the garden

Plot for strawberries

Strawberries grow well and bear fruit in the sun. Shaded and damp places are not good for her. Firstly, high humidity is one of the causes of all kinds of rot, fungal and viral diseases. Secondly, an excess of water affects the taste and portability of the berry: it becomes watery and soft.

The beds are best placed from east to west so that the bushes receive enough light during the day.

The optimal time for planting strawberries is late summer - early autumn (although planting is not prohibited in spring). It's just that in August-September there is a lot of planting material, there is plenty to choose from.

But you can decide on a place for a garden in advance. For example, choose a suitable area in the spring and sow it with lupine (the best for strawberries). Before planting strawberries, the lupine is mowed, and the bed is spilled with a solution.

There is no free site in the spring? It's OK. We will form a garden bed in the summer, focusing on good predecessors.

Predecessors and neighbors

The most suitable strawberry precursor is garlic. Just in August, the garlic ripens, the bed is vacated and you don't need to think long about where to plant the strawberries.

In addition to garlic, strawberries include:

• onions and bulbous flowers;
• radishes, carrots, turnips;
• beans, peas and other legumes;
• celery, parsley.

Soil preparation

Strawberries grow well on loamy, slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6) ​​soils with a high organic content. But whatever the initial soil on our site, provide strawberry garden bed light, loose, fertile soil we can do.

There are two ways to prepare soil for strawberries:

• dig up the ground with the introduction of fertilizers and organic matter;
• mix several components separately, and then cover the garden with the prepared soil mixture.

Digging is pretty simple. No later than a month before planting, we dig the selected area onto the bayonet of a shovel. If the earth is heavy, clayey, add one of the loosening materials to the garden bed:

• rotted sawdust with urea and ash (for 10 kilograms of sawdust, 2 tablespoons of urea, dissolved in 2 liters of water, and 1 glass of ash);
• peat with ash (one glass of ash per bucket of peat);
• sand.

Also, when digging for each square meter of soil, it is recommended to apply fertilizers:

• 5-6 kilograms of manure (another option: 6-8 kilograms of compost or humus);
• 50 grams of superphosphate;
• 15 grams of potassium sulfate
• 50 grams of urea.

You can do without digging. In this case, we need sod land, compost (or humus), peat and sawdust. We take all components in equal parts and mix. Then we fill the prepared place for the garden. In this way, the soil is prepared for growing strawberries, for example, in vertical beds - in pipes, pyramids, etc.

So, we have chosen a suitable place, decided on the composition of the soil. It remains to understand what type of garden bed will suit us in all respects.

Fill ridges

The simplest option is an ordinary loose bed. She is good in that she does not require additional materials and relatively easy to shape.

First, the site is dug up with fertilization. Then they divide it with furrows, forming beds with a width of 20 to 50 centimeters. The recommended bed height above the furrow is 20 centimeters. This is enough to drain excess water.

Bulk ridges also have disadvantages. They are easily washed away by heavy showers. They are low, require work to bend and squat. Nevertheless, gardeners choose this type of beds most often. However, for damp areas with a close occurrence of groundwater, bulk beds for strawberries are not suitable.

High ridges

But high ridges are ideal where there is a lot of water! You will have to work longer on the construction of such a bed, and spend a little money on building materials. A high bed is done like this:

• The selected area is fenced with boards, slate, sheets of iron, bricks, etc. You can put together a box of boards in advance, you can generally buy a ready-made frame for the garden. The height of the fence can be from 40 to 80 centimeters.
• At the bottom of the future bed, a drainage layer of 15 centimeters is created. They can serve as expanded clay, brick fragments or small tree branches.
• Easily overheated organic matter is poured on top: leaves, mown grass, kitchen waste, straw. This layer will provide warmth and nourishment.
• The next layer is a mixture of humus, compost, peat and turf. With this loose soil, they finally fill the entire structure and lightly tamp it.

The garden is ready. Its advantages are obvious:

• allows you to grow strawberries in the lowlands;
• additionally nourishes and warms the roots;
• makes it easier to care for plants due to its height;
• makes it possible to grow strawberries in a cool climate;
• can become design elements.

High ridges also have disadvantages. First, they require financial and labor costs. Secondly, they dry out faster - they will have to be watered more often than usual. And yet, high beds are confidently gaining popularity among our summer residents.

Strawberries in the trenches

Trenches are great option beds for dry areas. It is best to cook them in the fall and leave them until the next season, so that the organic matter inside has time to completely rot.

Perhaps the only minus of the trench is its labor intensity. After all, it must be dug out at least 30-40 centimeters in depth, or even deeper. The deep trench is filled in two stages. Fresh organic matter is placed on the bottom, and then covered to the brim with a mixture of compost and earth. Shallow trenches are filled with the same soil mixture to the full depth.

The main advantage of a trench bed is that moisture is retained in it longer. With proper watering, such beds practically do not need watering.

Planting under agrofibre or black film

The technology for creating a bed under cover is slightly more complicated than a conventional bed. Gardeners like to plant strawberries under black agrofibre or film for the following reasons:

• in spring, the soil under the shelter warms up faster;
• the bed is not washed out by streams of water during heavy rainfall;
• it is almost impossible for weeds to break through the fiber;
• the berries are always clean.

And the disadvantages of this option can be attributed only to the cost of covering material. It is not surprising that such beds are found in almost every site.

At first, the stages of forming a bed for agrofibre are no different from creating a bulk bed:

• digging the selected area with the addition of fertilizers;
• marking of furrows and ridges;
• the creation of high bulk ridges (up to 50 centimeters in height) by transferring the earth from the furrows;
• covering of ridges (including furrows) with black agrofibre or film;
• securing the cover with metal pins, stones, bricks, boards, gravel (you can simply fill the edges of the agrofibre with earth and tamp it);
• cutting through the material in places where strawberry bushes are planted.

Note that black agrofibre as a cover is preferable to film, since it allows both air and water to pass through.

Vertical beds

Vertical beds are a favorite option for experimental gardeners, creative people and owners of small plots where every piece of land is registered. Pyramids of boxes and pots, barrels, tires, pipes, shelves - wherever inventive gardeners plant strawberries.

Growing strawberries in tires or barrels

This method of growing strawberries is fundamentally no different from tall beds. Only as a frame, not boards with slate are used, but old ones car tires stacked on top of each other or leaky barrels. This structure fits 4-5 strawberry bushes.

The barrel can be filled entirely with soil, it can be half filled with organic waste (grass, foliage, tops, weeds), and half with soil mixture. It is convenient to handle such a bed: you do not need to bend low. But it needs to be watered more often. And every 2-3 years, change the soil for the prevention of strawberry diseases.

Strawberries in PVC pipes

The bunches of berries hanging down the pipe look great. For the sake of such beauty, some gardeners are not averse to working hard. True, in winter such a bed must be removed at least to the cellar or garage, otherwise the strawberry bushes are threatened with freezing. But if you live in the southern region and love to craft from scrap materials, why not give it a try?

To create a vertical bed in a pipe you will need:

• pipes PVC large diameter;
• small diameter hose or tube;
• drill with a nozzle for cutting round holes;
• pipe covers;
• sealant.

The process of creating a bed in a pipe consists of the following steps:

• Holes (3-5 centimeters in diameter) are drilled over the entire surface of the pipe;
• Many small holes are also made in the hose or small pipe;
• A hose (or small pipe) is inserted inside the large pipe;
• The lower ends of both pipes are hermetically closed with covers;
• The space between the inner and outer pipes is filled with soil;
• Strawberry bushes are planted in the holes;
• Watering and feeding is done through a small pipe (hose).

Bed-pyramids

A pyramidal bed is a kind of hybrid of a tall and vertical bed. One of the advantages of the pyramid is space saving. Therefore, it is the best suited for a small area. We talked in detail about how to build a pyramid for strawberries with our own hands in this article.

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A prerequisite for obtaining a rich strawberry harvest is correct preparation beds and soil for planting. At the same time, it is important not to miscalculate with the timing of planting work, as well as to provide the strawberries with proper care.

Choosing the best landing spot

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Strawberries are a very demanding culture for growing conditions. The berry area must have the following characteristics:

• be even or have a slight slope;
• be well lit by the sun during most of the day;
• be located in the southwest of the site;
• be high, without prolonged stagnation of moisture.

Strawberries will not grow well and bear fruit when planted in lowlands and in areas flooded in spring. When berry beds are placed in the shade or partial shade, the quantity and quality of the harvest suffers greatly: the berries become noticeably smaller, the taste becomes sour. Planting in places with groundwater levels above 60 cm from the soil surface threatens strawberries with frequent lesions of fungal diseases. The north-western part of the site is also unfavorable for strawberry cultivation.

Crop rotation rules and the choice of neighbors for strawberries

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When choosing a place for planting, one should not neglect such an important agrotechnical technique as crop rotation. A well-planned crop rotation allows for bountiful harvests of berries annually. Best predecessors for strawberries:

• siderates (rapeseed, mustard, buckwheat);
• greens;
• legumes;
• garlic;
• carrot;
• radish, radish.

• all nightshades;
• cabbage;
• cucumbers, zucchini;
• pumpkin, Jerusalem artichoke.

As for the neighboring plants, strawberries cannot be classified as particularly capricious in this regard, they are friends with many cultures. Berry bushes will be especially comfortable to grow next to:

• flower beds: with velvet and nasturtiums;
• spicy herbs(basil, sage);
• greens (lettuce, spinach, sorrel);
• garlic and onions.

The nightshades are not a very pleasant "company" for strawberries. They quickly pull everything out of the ground useful material, and are also distributors of phytophthora. It is dangerous to place berry beds near raspberries and rose hips. Insect pests of these crops will quickly spread to strawberry bushes. There will be no good harvest in the vicinity of cabbage, as it claims the same nutrients and requires more frequent watering.

Soil preparation

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Suitable for berry culture there will be a light soil that does not accumulate moisture. Such properties are typical for loamy and sandy loam soils. On soils with a different composition, the situation can be corrected by introducing additional components:

• large river sand in the amount of 2-3 buckets per 1m2 - for heavy and clay soils;
• humus in the amount of 2-3 buckets per 1m2 - on light, sandy soils.

To increase fertility in any areas, except for chernozem areas, the following components must be added in addition to 1m2:

• humus - 1 bucket;
• superphosphate - 2 matchbox;
• potassium sulfate - 1 tablespoon.

Spread the substances evenly over the surface of the site, dig up the soil and leave to rest for 14-20 days. During this time, the soil will settle, and the fertilizers will completely dissolve and take a form that is easily digestible for strawberries.

Important for berry bushes and such soil characteristics as acidity. Ideal would be a soil with a slightly acidic reaction, that is, with a pH of about 5.5-6.0. To make the acidic soil suitable for planting, a liming procedure is carried out. For this, dolomite flour or fluff lime is used.

Lime application rates for different types of soil

Liming is carried out 4-6 months before planting, because freshly calcified soils negatively affect the condition of strawberry roots.

Advice!

To determine the acidity of the soil, you can use the widely available litmus test strips. From available tools for this purpose, you can use table vinegar. Acetic acid should be dripped onto the surface of the investigated soil. A small bubble reaction means the soil is neutral in acidity. In the absence of a reaction, it can be concluded that the soil at the site is acidified.

How to prepare the beds for planting strawberries in August

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Depending on the characteristics of the site and the wishes of the gardener, strawberries can be grown in beds of different formation methods. Each design method has its own advantages and characteristics.

Easy landing method

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Planting method "out of the blue" is suitable for high and dry areas. Planting holes are placed in one or two rows. In the first case, the row spacing is left with a width of 65-70 cm.With a two-line planting scheme, a width of 80 cm is maintained between the lines, and the interval between rows is 40 cm. The distance between the bushes is determined depending on the varietal characteristics of the strawberries.

Regardless of the planting pattern between the rows, it is necessary to dig dividing grooves with a depth of about 15-20 cm. Such furrows are necessary to collect excess rainwater. This will significantly reduce the risk of spreading diseases and pests.

Low bulk German strawberry bed

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The German garden bed is a mound framed by boards or other material. This option is great for low-lying areas and wetlands. The height of the sides depends on the wishes of the gardener, on average it is 20-25 cm.

The area for the garden bed must be cleared of weeds and the top fertile layer removed. After installing the box on the prepared place, start filling it in the following order:

• protective mesh from rodents;
• drainage layer (broken brick, dry branches, expanded clay);
• nutritious soil.

The width of the ridges can be different, but in order for the plantings to be conveniently looked after, it should not exceed 80 cm. The planting pattern in such ridges can be either single-row or two-row.

Growing strawberries in German garden beds has several advantages:

• convenient to take care of plants;
• the soil is not washed away by rains;
• weeds cannot move from one bed to another;
• drainage provides good aeration of the soil, which significantly increases yields and reduces the risk of the spread of fungal diseases;
• give the site an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Advice!

To make the "German" beds last for several years, carefully treat the boards with special antiseptic agents.

Tall beds of barrels or tires

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For the design of such ridges, wooden or plastic barrels, as well as tires from different cars. Rubber from combines, VAZ and MAZ cars is ideal. The containers should be dug a little into the ground and filled with fertile soil. To increase useful area cut out from tires interior... To give the future beds aesthetics, you can paint the tires.

Such beds have many advantages:

• it is convenient to perform agrotechnical work (no need to bend low);
• durability;
• compactness and mobility (can be moved);
• lack of material costs.

The only drawback when choosing such ridges will be a small amount of plantings, even the largest tire will fit only 5-6 berry bushes.

Planting under agrofibre

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The most common method of planting strawberries among gardeners. It is possible to use agrofibre both on a regular bulk bed and on a “German” type bed. In both cases, it is necessary to carefully dig up the soil and apply the necessary fertilizers. Then spread the canvas over the soil and fix it with wire pins.

The canvas is produced standard sizes, 1.6 m or 3.2 m wide. This must be taken into account when planning the length and width of the beds in order to avoid joints. Planting holes in agrofibre are usually already present. If you have purchased a solid agricultural canvas, then make the markings in accordance with the desired planting pattern. In the marked places, cut the fabric crosswise with a sharp knife, take the corners out. Plant strawberries in the resulting holes.

The use of agrofibre has a number of advantages:

• the material is perfectly permeable to moisture and air, but does not allow weeds to germinate;
• berries do not have contact with the ground;
• the harvest ripens 1-2 weeks earlier, due to the rapid heating of the soil in spring;
• excellent aeration is provided (the surface of the soil does not dry out and does not form a crust).

Decorative vertical beds

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Vertical designs for planting strawberries are very popular among owners of small garden areas. The most common planting methods are:

• wooden bed-pyramid

Such a structure is made from several tiers of square wooden boxes... The sizes of the boxes can be different, but each tier should be 30-35 cm less than the previous one. First, prepare the desired number of boxes. Then, starting with the largest, stack them on top of each other, filling each with fertile soil. The garden bed can have from three to nine tiers.

• into metal or plastic pipes

Pipes with a diameter of at least 15 cm are suitable. Holes must be staggered along the entire height of the pipes at a distance of about 20 cm. The pipe is best concreted in the soil or attached in several places to a support, for example, to a veranda or a gazebo. Installed structure fill with nutritious soil and plant strawberries.

• in plastic bottles

Cut plastic bottles, fill with soil and secure with ropes to any vertical surface... One bottle contains one bush.

Advantages of vertical beds:

• save space;
• decorate the site;
• contact of berries with soil is excluded;
• ease of care (no weeds).

You should know!

The soil in vertical beds dries up very quickly, so watering must be done every 2-3 days.

Regardless of which way of decorating the ridges you choose to get a good and high-quality harvest, you need to know some of the features of the care and cultivation of this crop.

When to plant

For planting strawberry bushes, both spring and autumn are suitable. Seedlings grown independently from seeds are transplanted into the ground in May-June. The benchmark is to set the average daily temperature at 15 degrees Celsius.

When propagating strawberries with a mustache, planting can be made from early August to mid-October. At the same time, it is important to complete planting work a month before the onset of the first night frosts. Agronomists consider August to be the best month to plant strawberries. Plants planted at this time manage to get stronger and practically do not freeze in winter. The harvest from such beds can be obtained as early as next year.

The choice of planting material. What mustache to take for planting

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For reproduction, a mustache is used from healthy and bearing excellent harvests bushes. In order for the children to be stronger from early spring, all flower stalks should be cut off from the mother bushes. The very first sockets located from the "mother" have a more developed root system, therefore they are considered the best planting material. The rest of the shoots are not suitable for further propagation, so they are removed.

The sockets can be dug in next to the mother bushes or planted in separate pots. After the children grow up a little, and are able to feed moisture from the soil, they are independently separated from the adult bushes and transplanted to a new place.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other

Planting different varieties strawberries in the same garden bed is fine. Since the strawberry berry is an overgrown receptacle, and not a fruit, there is no need to be afraid of cross-pollination of varieties. The overgrown mustache confusion is the only drawback of mixed plantings.

Experienced gardeners are advised to separate neighboring varieties with several rows of garlic or onions. Pieces of slate dug in between the bushes in the garden are good as a separator.

Berry garden care

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In order to get good yields every year, the berry beds must be properly cared for. It consists in the following agrotechnical methods:

• Watering

Irrigation of the berry is carried out based on weather conditions. In dry summers, watering is carried out 1-2 times a week. With regular precipitation, watering can be reduced or stopped altogether.

• Mulching

In order to keep moisture in the soil as long as possible, a mulching layer is lined on the beds. As mulch, you can use straw, agrofibre, cardboard. The cover is lined between the berry bushes in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. On the eve of the winter season, the mulching layer is replaced with a new one - dried humus.

Spring mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, maintains good soil aeration and prevents berries from contacting the ground. The winter cover will protect the strawberry roots from freezing and additionally fertilize the soil.

• Top dressing

Fertilizing the berry begins from the second year after planting. Agronomists recommend feeding the crop according to the following scheme:

• in early spring - nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied;
• during the period of bud formation, potassium nitrate is used;
• in the autumn, they use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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And finally, here are some more tips to get a new bigger crop every year:

• the berries will be larger and sweeter if the beds are placed in a sunny place in the direction from east to west;
• update the planting every four years (with the exception of some varieties that can perfectly bear fruit for a longer time in one place);
• if your garden plot is on a slope, then place a berry bed across it, so the plantings will not be washed out by precipitation;
• in order to destroy the slugs, caterpillars and other insect pests living in the soil, treat the area immediately before planting with a solution ammonia(3 tablespoons in a bucket of water).

Having familiarized themselves with the main options for the formation of strawberry ridges and the rules for caring for them, even the most inexperienced gardener will be able to breed strawberries on his site and feast on berries every summer season.

Many began to create a new bed of strawberries in July, and in August the planting of strawberries must be completed - otherwise the strawberry mustache will not have time to prepare for winter. How to plant strawberries so that they give next year good harvest? There are several ways to plant strawberries. First, we will discuss the planting of purchased strawberry seedlings, and then - the scheme for planting a strawberry mustache of our own collection.

Seedlings of any fruit crops brought from the nursery in about half of the cases are infected with some kind of pest or disease (on raspberries - gall midge, on currants - kidney, on gooseberries - spheroteka, etc.), and strawberries are no exception. It is worth warming them up just in case hot water at a temperature of about 50 ° C, immersed in a bucket whole in pots for 15-20 minutes. At this temperature, root aphids, nematodes, ticks and others die. possible pests: just in nurseries they often accumulate in the soil great amount is an "occupational disease" of all nurseries.

But as practice shows, there is often no time to warm it up, you plant it like that, hoping for luck. In this case, the rule should be applied to plant the purchased strawberry whiskers at a great distance - at least 1–1.5 m, so that they do not infect each other if someone turns out to be a carrier of the pest. So it is more convenient to get a mustache from them.

The purchased mustache of each variety can be planted in a line, or it can be nested in 3 (triangle) or 4 (square) so that at least a slight spatial isolation is observed between the varieties and the mustache does not intersect.

Confusion with strawberry varieties should be avoided at all costs. When we receive the livestock of each variety from one leader, we can be sure that we have a whole one variety. And so it is necessary to take care of it in the future. Although sometimes it is easy to distinguish one variety from others: by the early or late reddening of the berries, by five blades on a leaf instead of three, finally, by color and general view berries, and sometimes even pink flowers.

All space between plants must be completely free of weeds. The whiskers should grow absolutely freely, without encountering root obstacles. Then they imperceptibly and at the same time quickly turn into long garlands. In no case should you tear off the mustache, otherwise the synergy effect is lost, when each mustache strengthens the next with its roots, and all of them are strengthened by the roots of the mother plant.

This is possible only on clean, fertile soil, with frequent but moderate nitrogen fertilization and good watering. Under such conditions, the garlands grow rapidly, and by September the bush gives us dozens of mustaches. The only method of shaping with a pruner is to cut off the lateral branches of the mustache, or offsets (this is when the rosette, in addition to the main continuation of the mustache, gives an even thinner mustache to the side). Such bites have less strength and are not used for breeding.

Reproduction of the starting parent bush-leader is the only case when we allow ourselves a September planting. We are pulling until September, without touching the mustache, so that they get as many outlets as possible.

Strawberry planting scheme

Now let's take a look at the usual strawberry planting, with our own mustache. Whether we plant strawberries in September or July, there are optimal standard distances between plants in a row and between the rows themselves. They are quite "floating". Over time, you will correct them for yourself, for your case.

The general strategy is that at peak yield (2nd and 3rd fruiting years) strawberries grow at the next gravity.

Single row landing

Early varieties: 30 × 60 cm (distance between plants in a row is 30 cm, and between rows - 60 cm).

Mid-season and late varieties: 40 × 70 cm (distance between plants in a row is 40 cm, and between rows - 70 cm).

On highly fertile, including chernozem, soils are planted somewhat more spaciously: here late-ripening varieties are placed according to the 45 × 75 cm scheme.

When planting in beds, when plants are planted on it in two rows:

Early varieties: 30 × 40 cm.

Mid-season and late varieties: 40 × 50 cm.

The row spacing is 25-30 cm.

Thus, on a garden bed of 1 sq. m of area are placed 6 bushes of mid-season or late varieties.

The tallest and large-fruited varieties strawberries, such as Gigantella, are planted even less often: on square meter place 4 plants or even 3. If you already decided to get extremely large berries, then you need to plant spaciously.

Planting strawberries: how is it right?

This is the general strategy. It can be achieved in two ways: either immediately and plant it, trying to choose a knowingly successful strong mustache, with which there will be almost no attacks for three seasons, or first plant the mustache in a row twice as densely, after 20 cm (with constant distances between the rows), so that the first get a high enough yield, and then immediately after picking the berries, carry out the usual pulling (thinning) of the bushes to the desired rate.

Both methods of planting strawberries are good in their own way. For industrialists, the second method is considered more costly for planting material, but for a summer resident, it is quite feasible. On poor soil, a dense planting of strawberries wins, and on fertile soil it is better to immediately plant at a rate, otherwise large strawberry bushes will be too crowded in the first fruiting season.

Even when choosing a solution, one should start from the size of the bushes of each variety. There are varieties of strawberries with medium-sized foliage that even recommend planting tightly first for a higher first yield, for example, mid-season variety Queen.

Our main strategy is to have an optimal planting density on an adult plantation - two enemies: lunges individual plants and excessive thickness. Both come from a beginner's inexperience. He has a way to overcome both difficulties - is to deliberately plant about twice as dense and then apply the thinning in due time.

There is a psychological side that forces beginners to create thickening of the rows: when you just plant, you involuntarily want to place everything denser than required, because the holes in the ground seem huge. When everything finally grows and closes with foliage, then there is nowhere to walk, and the plants give small berries - cramped. However, it is not in vain that a beginner is afraid inside a sparse planting: he can easily fall out of individual plants.

Thus, thinning is a lifeline for everyone who wants to hedge against unexpected attacks. But then it must be done! Cannot be planted tightly, harvested in the first season high yield, rejoice, and leave it that way. But you really want to ... It may very well happen that the first season turns out to be fruitful for strawberries, and this always means that there are fewer attacks than usual. And then the snug fit will amaze you with its effectiveness, and you will be sure that it will remain the same in the future. It is very difficult to remove through one strong bushes, but you have to.

Generally skilfully distribute the right amount strong plants per unit area - this is one of the most difficult activities, but it gives a sharp increase in the quality and quantity of the crop. I will say this: in your gardening, always count only the strongest plants and leave only them, give them room - the result will exceed your expectations.

When thinning, you will face another difficulty: ideally, you need to remove through one plant, and ideally, you need to remove weak plants and leave strong ones. How to reconcile these two requirements when the weak and the strong can grow unevenly ?! Yes, you will again want to leave thinning unfinished under the pretext of preserving strong plants, but it makes sense to overpower yourself and leave a modest size of bushes somewhere, and somewhere sacrifice a part of strong plants, but bring at least approximately planting to the recommended rate.

The arrival of a fragrant berry in the garden means that it is mid-summer, so it's time to start caring for the strawberry bushes to ensure that you can get even more harvest next season. It is in August that the period when new leaves grow on the bushes, the growth of horns and buds are laid. The formation of berries in the next season depends on these moments, so it is right to start caring for the plant at this particular time.

Soil preparation

The garden bed before planting seedlings for the next season should be prepared at the end of the previous year. This should be done on fine and warm days, when the air temperature is +20 degrees. You need to choose the beds on the slopes facing south. It is undesirable to grow this crop in the lowlands, as well as in those areas where groundwater pass high. The soil should also have a certain acidity, which should not exceed 5.5 units. The soil should be sufficiently fertilized so that there is no need to apply large amounts of fertilizing in July for the next season.

The crop will not bear fruit well on sandy soils. Also, do not grow strawberries where direct sunlight falls on them. Before preparing the area, it is recommended to examine it for the presence of various pests. If found, they must be destroyed with the help of special preparations.

And also the land is preliminarily cleared of weeds and, along with this, seedlings are prepared for planting on open areas... After removing the weeds, it is recommended to apply 2-3 kg of organic matter per 1 square meter to the plot.

After what crops to plant?

When choosing a site, it must be borne in mind that this crop cannot grow in areas where tomatoes or potatoes, as well as sunflowers, used to grow. It is recommended to plant strawberries in those areas where there were previously such crops as:

• radish;
• peas;
• Dill;
• beans;
• parsley;
• oats;
• salads.

When planting seedlings, do not bury them too deeply in the ground, as the central bud may be below ground level, which will lead to decay of the bush. It is also not recommended to plant the bushes too shallowly, since in hot weather the hearts can dry out, which will cause the death of the plant. Therefore, it is necessary to plant so that the central bud is at the level of the soil. In the hole itself, it is necessary to make a mound along which to spread the roots of the seedlings. They should not intertwine with each other, so they can be cut if necessary. It is also recommended to pour a sufficient amount of water under each seedling and cover them with earth.

From above, the site is mulched with hay or straw. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 10 cm, which will help create a greenhouse effect and retain more moisture in the soil, which can be consumed by the roots in order for the plant to develop better. After planting, it is recommended to regularly weed the site, as well as remove excess mustache from the bushes.

In hot weather, it is necessary to ensure that the soil in the garden is moist, especially when the flowers appear. Strawberries are planted using methods that differ in the distance between bushes and rows.

How to fertilize?

14 days before planting, you need to add nutrients to the soil. For this, potassium-based fertilizers, superphosphate and others are used. They are applied at the rate of an average of 30 g per 1 m². And you can also add ash. When planting the seedlings themselves in the holes, you can add a little organic matter diluted in water. To do this, you need to take one part of the raw material and dilute it in 1 part of water.

To prepare the optimal composition for feeding strawberries, it is recommended to use such products as:

• manganese - 40 g;
• molybdenum - 5 g;
• water - 15 l;
• boric acid - 10 g.

All these components are mixed with each other and brought to the site. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the composition evenly covers the garden bed.

These ingredients will help saturate the strawberry roots nutrients, and also have a positive effect on the quality of berries. The fruits will become larger and sweeter, and their appearance and transportability will improve.

Seedling selection

To accelerate the growth of sprouts, as well as to ensure the possibility of obtaining a healthy and rich harvest, it is recommended to choose the right seedlings before planting, which will help prevent diseased seedlings from entering the site that can infect other bushes. Experts recommend purchasing seedlings from trusted sellers, which are in plastic containers and have healthy roots, as well as developed leaves.

Currently, there are many varieties of strawberries that are intended for cultivation in certain regions, depending on the weather conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to pay attention to these points, acquiring the variety that is optimal for your region. Planting in August will be done correctly if the seedlings are carefully selected beforehand. Young seedlings should be free of wrinkles or damage, which may indicate the poor quality of such material, as well as if they have a disease.

It is worth paying attention to such points as:

• the thickness of the stem should be 0.7 cm;
• the color of the leaves is bright green;
• seedlings have no defects on leaves and roots;
• bush root - up to 8 cm;
• it is recommended to buy seedlings in peat pots or plastic containers.

Elite varieties can give a large harvest, but at the same time they are quite expensive. To save money, you can remove the seedlings yourself. This can be done from seeds or by dividing a bush that used to bear fruit well. In the first option, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on removing seedlings, so it is recommended to use the second method. All agricultural activities for obtaining seedlings can be done at home using small boxes placed in a warm place where they will be provided required temperature and humidity.

Before planting, each seedling is recommended to be disinfected by placing it in water for 15 minutes at a temperature of +50 degrees. It is necessary to perform several such procedures with an interval of half an hour between them. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the seedlings with the roots in a solution of clay with water and compost, which will help the roots to better adapt in a new place.

The main methods and technique of disembarkation

There are several ways to plant strawberries correctly.

• One line. In this case, the distance between individual bushes should be a maximum of 20 cm, and between rows - up to 70 cm. In this case, all bushes should be in separate holes.
• Two-line. This method of planting is similar to the previous one, the only difference is that separate holes are not made for the bushes, but sprouts are planted in a trench at a distance of 15–20 cm. The distance between rows is 70 cm.
• Natural agricultural technology. This method involves planting bushes every 50 cm in a row. The distance between the individual rows is 50 cm.

Disembarkation is carried out after the rosettes on the bushes ripen. In this case, they need to be moved to a permanent place. Disembarkation is carried out only on favorable and not hot days, it is better to do this in the evening or in cloudy weather. In this case, the plant will be able to quickly adapt and take root.

Mustache

This method of seating involves rooting individual whiskers of the strawberry mother bush. New rosettes and roots will form on these shoots. 14 days before transplanting, the seedling, which is obtained from the mustache, is separated from the adult plant and its further nutrition is provided from its own roots. When the seedling gets a little stronger, it can be dug up and transplanted to a new place. The process is best carried out in July or August, choosing an evening or cloudy weather for this, so that the roots are better adapted. The depth of the pits for the bush must be made small, and the roots must also be spread in it.

Under agrofibre

To obtain bountiful harvest, you can use the method of planting under agrofibre. It is optimal and correct technique, which is used by many for the cultivation of strawberries for commercial purposes. You must first purchase a film and cover the prepared area with it. To do this, it is recommended to pre-fertilize the soil, and also dig it up. Then holes are made on the film for the bushes.

The film will keep the sun out, so the soil will stay moist longer, and weeds and other plants that are undesirable for strawberries will not appear under it.

Agrofibre needs to be purchased at a size that matches the plantation site. A layer of mulch is laid on the prepared soil and everything is covered with foil. Then you can start planting seedlings. The holes must be made small so that weeds do not break through next to the strawberry bushes.

Under spunbond

Experienced gardeners plant strawberries under this covering material. The technology of soil preparation and planting of seedlings is the same as the previous one. Spunbond allows you to get big harvest and also does not allow weeds to develop on the site.

Follow-up care

In September, after planting, the bushes must be fertilized. This can be done with various substances. Gardeners prefer to treat strawberries with a solution of urea diluted 3: 10 with water. And also the roots can be fed with solutions of manganese, boron or zinc. Bushes treated with this composition will bring more yield, and the quality of the fruits will be high.

Crop care consists in timely watering and fertilization. After harvesting, it is recommended to prepare the plant for winter. For this, the bushes are covered with a layer of peat or straw mulch. Such natural substances retain heat and moisture longer, and they will also prevent frost and fertilize the soil. After that the following agrotechnical measures can be produced in April when the snow melts and it is warm.

If you take care of strawberries correctly and in accordance with the recommendations of specialists, then you can get a large harvest next year.

Some summer residents give good advice on how to plant different varieties of strawberries in the same area. But this is not recommended, since different varieties of strawberries will be pollinated among themselves, as a result of which the berries will become worse in quality. In all other moments, agricultural technology stands in the maintenance and implementation of generally accepted rules, which consist in timely watering, feeding and weeding. It is also important to remove weeds from the plots, preventing them from growing, which can lead to the appearance of diseases in the strawberries themselves. Affected and diseased strawberry bushes must be removed in time so as not to infect other seedlings.

In the next video, you will find the features of planting strawberries in August.

Growing tasty strawberries in your summer cottage gives an amateur gardener a lot of pleasure, because it is known that a rich harvest is possible if you know all the intricacies of planting and care. That is why very often you can hear the same question from them: is it possible to plant strawberries in August? Our article will discuss what is the sequence of such works and what are the methods of planting these wonderful bushes.

For intensive growth and health, the bushes are planted exclusively good seedlings, because then the berries grow quite large and juicy. So how to choose the right one for planting? Professionals in their field advise to purchase annual fruit seedlings, planted in plastic containers, the roots of such plants should be about 5 cm, with well-developed leaves.

There are many popular varieties of berries, which in turn give not only a good harvest, but also delight gardeners with their flowering on the land. The advantage of such seedlings is that they are scrupulously selected among other bushes, after which they are dug out late autumn and stored in plastic bags. Temperature regime at the same time it should be slightly reduced.

It is advisable to purchase seedlings at specialized kiosks. When planting strawberries at the end summer period flower buds occur, so that next season it will be possible to get a delicious harvest of ripe berries.

Seedlings should be selected carefully. Leaves should not be shriveled, pale or damaged. Such signs may indicate the presence of a disease in the plant and the poor quality of the seedlings.

The main signs for which seedlings should be selected

• The leaves of the seedlings should be bright green in color.
• The thickness of the horn of the seedling itself should be about 0.7 cm.
• The root of the strawberry bush is 7-8 cm.
• Seedlings should be free from defects in the root system and leaves.
• If the seedlings are purchased in a plastic container, the roots of the strawberry seedling should envelop the entire container.
• If the seedlings are sold in peat pots, the roots should be visible to the outside.

We prepare land soil

Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberry bushes in August. It is better to do this in sunny areas with an acidity of 6.5%, in chernozem soil. The berry can also feel good on sandy areas. Planting a plant near water will be undesirable.

Having picked up a place on your site, you should carefully examine it for the presence of pests. If any are present, they are destroyed using special means... Before planting seedlings, the soil must be well cleared of weeds, and then fertilized. To do this, a special organic mixture is placed in each dug hole, consisting of 1 bucket of soil, compost, rotted horse manure and 2 glasses of ash. And after 14 days, strawberry bushes can be safely planted.

The distance at which the seedlings are rooted

At what distance and depth is it better to plant the bushes?

You cannot plant the plant too deeply, since the center of the bush will be below the level of the soil, which will provoke its death. Seedlings can take root well and quickly if they are planted so that the center of the plant protrudes quite a bit above the surface of the soil.

Rules to follow

• seedlings should be planted in a dug hole, in which a small mound is previously made;
• the roots, if they are long, cannot be bent, it is enough just to carefully trim them;
• after planting, the plant should be watered abundantly;
• young seedlings must be mulched with straw, hay, sawdust or compost. After that, cover with blood material to create a good greenhouse effect.

In the future, it is necessary to regularly weed strawberries and remove their mustaches. At high humidity the plant is watered so that the soil is well wet. In August, flowers are laid, on which, accordingly, the amount of harvest for the next season depends.

Basic schemes for planting bushes

There are two schemes for planting strawberry bushes. It:

1. Single-row planting, that is, planting in one row. It is necessary to observe the gaps between the plants - at least 20 cm, the distance between the rows - about 70 cm.
2. Two-line planting. Planting strawberries with ribbons, in two rows. In this case, the distance between the plants should be about 60 cm, the row spacing should be no more than 30 cm.

Technique for planting strawberry bushes in open soil with a mustache

As soon as the rosettes of the berries are ripe, they must be planted in a permanent place. You should plant strawberries with a mustache in auspicious days August. In cloudy weather or in evening time... This must be done so that the plant can quickly adapt to a new area.

The area where you are going to plant the bushes should be divided into rows, and the distance should be about 1 m. Plants should be planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

The depth of the holes should be 10-15 cm, and the core of the socket should be at the level of the ground.

If the core of the outlet is deepened, the bush will quickly die.

We plant seedlings under a black film

Very often, in order to get a high yield of berries, gardeners use a special planting method, which includes covering the plants with agrofibre or ordinary black plastic wrap. For this, the film is made small holes... The secret of the method is that black material does not let through Sun rays, and no annoying weeds grow under it. In order to plant strawberry bushes under a film, you will need to do the following:

• Purchase black film or agrofibre of the required size.
• Find a mulching material for lining on the ground, the corners of which are laid in the dug holes along the perimeter of the site and covered with earth.
• Start planting fruit bushes. It is better to place them according to the checkerboard principle. The distance between plants (30 cm) must be observed.
• On the film, it is necessary to fix the marks in those places where the holes will be and carefully make small cuts.
• After marking the holes, manually dig medium-sized holes and plant the seedlings.

Cutting out large holes can cause weeds to grow.

Compatibility of different varieties of strawberries

There is a conviction among amateur gardeners that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries. But is it really so? A variety of varieties of such fragrant fruits, and in fact, it is better not to plant next to each other, since they are pollinated among themselves, which entails a decrease in the quality of the berries.

An amazing culture in the form of a red fragrant berry is an overgrown receptacle. It carries exclusively genetic characteristics, so the pollen, thanks to which the color of the plant is pollinated, is not reflected in any way on the fruits. You can transplant and plant different varieties next to each other.