Subtleties and nuances of landing lilies and care: a complete overview of growing technology. Is it possible to plant Lily at home

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Lilies are becoming more popular. Growing lilies in the garden is not very difficult if landing and care are made correctly. What these flowers please you with their beauty, you need to know the basic rules of cultivation, landing and care.

To begin with, you need to know what kind of lilies belong to what your lilies belong. I highly recommend reading this article, especially since at the end it is waiting for you a gift - a small video with beautiful music and no less beautiful colors.

Different species have their own characteristics, but there are general recommendations for the cultivation of lilies and care for them. Let's start with the landing.

Lilies can be transplanted throughout the growing season. One condition - when transplanting it is necessary to be sure that you will not break the stems or sprouts. If you have a lilies, there are very thick, and besides, they also sit deep, it is better to make a transplant when the vegetation ended - at the end of August -Even-and-early October, to split a thick bush.

If the flowers grow loose, but you decided that elsewhere it will be better - you can transplant and in the spring and even in the summer. Especially neatly need to transplanted in summer. Root system We must try to keep as much as possible and do not break the stalk. In such a transplantation, the plant must be planted as quickly as possible, the flowers preferably cut or do it immediately after flowering. Further care As usual, but do not forget to water.

When buying and transplanting lilies in the summer there are its advantages - you see how this variety really looks. But there is also a disadvantage - in summer, blooming lilies are two times, and even more, more expensive than the bulbs of the same varieties in spring or autumn.

Spring for sale a lot of bulbs both in stores and in the market. This is a very good time to land. True, the plants in the first year will not show all their beauty, but on next year You will see them in complete glory. If the bulbs are healthy, they will fit well and grow. When buying, pay attention to the turgorn of the bulbs. They should be strong and shots rot.

Autumn lilies on sale less, but I think it is best time For transplantation. But be careful when buying - you can get on the bulbs that were not sold in the spring, somewhere stored, and in the fall they began to sell them. I once caught so. I bought on the sale of Lily in September with big sprouts, put them in a deeper, but the winter was frosty and almost all or disappeared, or they hurt it for a long time.

In September, lilies should not be sprouts. The bulbs only ended the growing season and their rest period. The exception is Lilia Candidum. In autumn, it should grow leaflets, she hoses with them.

With the purchase figured out. Choose a place to land.

Place for landing lilies.

A place for landing lilies can be sunny or located in a half. By the way, in a half hundredth, they bloom a little later, but the flowers are held longer and do not burn out. And according to my observations, they even feel better in the penven.

Well, if your sun will illuminate a plot to lunch, lilies love the morning sun, and then they do not mind and relax. Depending on the type of lilies, their attitude towards the Sun is also different. They love the sun tubular hybrids, long-color, regal or royal, bulbous, others will feel more comfortable to feel at easy shaping.

The main condition for all species without exception is in a place where the water is growing, water should not accumulate, especially in the spring after melting of snow. The plot must provide a good stock of water. Soil should not be heavy and clay. If you have this - be sure to add sand or a stretched peat. Manure and other organic, it is impossible to add to avoid fungal diseases.

Lilies grow well on soils with neutral acidity. But Asian, American and Eastern hybrids can grow on the weakness of the sooths, and the Lilies of Candidum, March, the tubular prefer the soil from neutral to slightly alkaline. This moment take into account when landing. Soil acidity can be adjusted ashes and peat. Ash soil shakes, and peat, on the contrary, acidifies.

Depth of planting lilies.

Lilies are recommended to plant a depth of 10-25 cm. It all depends on the soil freeziness, from the size of the bulbs and on the characteristics of each species. If the lilies are formed by mallaunch roots - landing is deeper, if not - it is possible and smaller. Therefore, you need to know what kind of lilies you want to grow. If you do not know - pay attention, there are or no roots above the bulb when you dig a lily or ask the seller about it.

The landing depth should be 3-5 times higher than the height of the bulbs. Consequently, major bulbs sit deeper, small-smaller. Small bulbs as they grown themselves will be drawn into the ground and go to the depth that they need.

Caring for lilies during vegetation.

If the landing of lilies was made in the fall, they need to cover them for winter. To do this, you can use the fallen foliage, plant residues, peat, napnik. In the spring, after thawing snow, the laps need to be removed, and the peat will serve the mulley. Sawdust use is not desirable. They are fatal and in spring soil under them is not thawing.

Immediately, as soon as snow comes down, take off the shelter. Further care lies in loosening, weeding of plant feeding. Immediately, after melting snow and removal of shelter, we spread in beds with lilies and other bully colors (, narcissus) complex mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen or ammonium nitrate.

Freshing when shoots will already grow, feed the superphosphate or complex fertilizer, but already with the predominance of phosphorus and potassium. Floral kidneys are better developed from phosphorus and potassium. It is very good to use the fertilizer of the brand of Kemira or the like with trace elements. I do the last feeding in August, again, phosphorus and potassium should prevail in it.

Important moment when growing lilies - soil moisture. Lilies can carry a small drought, but if there is a continuous drought - it is necessary to irrigate, especially during the bootonization period. And if it turned out very wet weather, try to take extra water from planting, whatever it would be stood and did not spawn the bulbs.

After flowering, when the bulbs are preparing for the winter - here in August, the soil should also stop, and at that time it may be hot and dry weather. Therefore, do not forget about the watering.

In one place of lily can grow several years without transplantation. The transplant is required when you will see that the colors are closely, there are many subsidiaries. And if a variety has a low propagation coefficient and lilies grow very slowly (there are such), you can safely leave them in one place and do not disturb several years.

Fighting pests and diseases.

The best struggle with diseases for lilies, however, as for people is prevention.

One of the ways of prevention is to comply with the rules for the care and create suitable conditions. Second important moment - do not use organic fertilizers, only mineral. Organizer promotes the development of mushroom diseases. The third moment - before planting new bulbs, carefully inspect them and, if there are sore stains, be sure to cut or remove damaged scales. And be sure to extend them and in some specially intended for this preparation - For example, Maxim, Fundazole, as well as a stimulator of growth, such as epin or ecosit.

In summer, it is necessary to make preventive spraying. For example, the preparation phytoosporin contains beneficial bacteria, helping plants to resist diseases. Several times for the season spray lily with drugs such as Xome, Fundazole, Topcin M, etc.

The most common diseases affecting the leaves of the lilies is Botritis (gray rot) and bacterial (soft) rot leaves.

These diseases are especially developing in a wet summer, when the foliage does not dry when there are high temperature differences. If the flowers are sick, spend the processing several times, changing the preparations. It will also be useful and the strait of soils with Fundazole, phytodeterm.

There are a number of diseases that develop on the bulbs. Again -taki, due to the convergence can develop root rot, rust. Sick bulbs need to treat maxim or move in a mortgage solution.

As you can see, one of the main causes of diseases of lilies is the mooring of the soil or very wet weather. The umbrella on the colors will put it, so nothing remains to do how to deal with the prevention and treatment of plants with the necessary drugs.

If the landings struck the disease, then after drying and cleaning the stems, it is better to burn them or remove from the site, and the soil in front of wintering is once again. It is possible a strong solution of mangalls and phytodeterm, it will enrich the soil with useful bacteria. At the planting additionally ash (200-300 g per square meter. M.), It also helps to fight diseases.

From pests most often on Liliyah harms red lily bug.

Adult beetles fly out early in the spring until lily ride. Can eat leaves, and then switch to lilies. In the photo of the beetle sits on the Rannetic lily of the Chovitiza in May.

But even more harm than the beetles themselves, their larvae applies. They eat the leaves of the plants, leaving behind the brown porridge. If you do not take action on time, the flowers will suffer very much.

Measures of struggle - collecting beetles early spring manually and chemical treatment during bootonization and flowering. From drugs will suit any suitable for combating colorad Zhukom. On potato - spark, actor and so on.

Caring for lilies after flowering.

After flowering lilies, remove the top of the plant with the zeal of seeds. The plant will not spend the forces on the ripening of seeds, and will save the nutritional reserves for the next season. When cut, try to leave as much leaves as possible on the stem, because it is the leaves that help feed on the plant.

If necessary, step and water.

In the fall, all the remnants need to be removed and burned, because they live all the pathogens of diseases and pests. For several years I made a mistake when cut stems did not remove, but sheltered or bed with flowers. As a result, Lilies began to hurt and had to make efforts to correct the situation.

Lilies love to winter in dry soil, so if you cover the landing with a film from the autumn rains, it will be very good. Eastern hybrids are especially sensitive. They must be covered with boards or film, you can even leave until spring. And for all others, it will not be superfluous to insulation of foliage, sweetheart, peat.

Reproduction of lilies.

Lilies are capable of multiplying in several ways:

  • dividing the bulb itself
  • kids
  • bulbs
  • scales
  • leaves and pieces of stalks.

I will not tell in detail, it is the topic of a separate conversation.

I just say that different types Lilies have a different reproduction factor. Asian hybrids, la -igrids are very well multiplied, many varieties have become popular recently from -girds.

Eastern, March, tubular, many wild species independently grow much slower, and special methods apply for their reproduction.

Well, here I told you about growing lilies in the garden or in the country. If you provide them correct careThey will delight you for many years. In more detail about leaving some kind of lilies, I will try to write. So far, you can read only about

For such gentle and sophisticated colors, like lilies, landing and care have great importance. This is especially true of the most beautiful exotic varieties. It is necessary not only to determine the correct dates of landing, but also to choose good place Under the flowerbed with lilies, land them according to one of the schemes, respecting the desired distance and optimal depth in accordance with the features of the type of lily.

Choosing a suitable place to plant lily

LOVE HAVE EVERYTHING beautiful varieties Lilies for his flower garden, and waiting, you suddenly understand that you do not imagine at all, as a scheme to plant plants, and on which depth the lilies should be landed. We will put the flowers too deep - they will bloom late, and put too small - plants can hit the disease.

Put flowers too deep - they will bloom late

Planning how to land lilies so that they harmoniously looked at the flowerbed, be sure to take into account the size, height, shape and color of flowers. For example, tall varieties of lilies are better to plant small groups or placed in the background of flower beds. And the lowest varieties of lilies with small flowers will be good with peonies, floccals and loyabers.

Video about landing lilies

A successful option will be combined on one bed of roses and lily flowers - landing of these colors together will greatly facilitate trouble with the shelter of plants for the winter.

Choosing a suitable place for landing lilies, consider that these colors need a nutritious loose soil, clean from weeds and the water permeable. Most Asian lilies and tubular hybrids like open placesBut you can grow them in a light shadow, just not next to the trees - there is a strong shadow and dried soil. Successes in the cultivation of a disrupting lily, orange, dawn, pleasant, monochrome, long-color, dwarf and chalkecedon can be achieved by landing them in a sunny place. But Japanese, golden, carniole, walking, twin-round, corn, beautiful, gorgeous and reddish lilies prefer halftime. Knowing how to close lily, and which site is better to choose for cultivation, you will definitely achieve excellent results!

What soil required lilies

Under plowing, together with organic fertilizers, it is also desirable to add phosphoric, potash and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil

Lily landing requires advanced thoroughly soil preparation, as in one place Lily will grow without transplanting from three to five years:

  • in a heavy ground, make a humus, peat and sand, just do not overdo it with organic fertilizers, otherwise the above-ground part of the lilies will quickly go to the detriment of the formation of bulbs, the plants will be less resistant to diseases and less winter-hardy;
  • in podzolic poor soils on 1m2, contribute 8 kg of humus;
  • in leaching black earth soils per 1 m2 - 4 kg humus;
  • under plowing, together with organic fertilizers, it is also desirable to make phosphoric, potash and nitrogen fertilizers in the soil.

Keep in mind that the different acidity of the soil is required. Most of the varieties of lily grow well on the neutral soil, but umbrella, beaten, bulbous, white, Tibetan, monochrome lilies, as well as the Lilies of Regal and March, more like the soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. Lilies can grow on acidic soils: Dauroskaya, Tiger, droy, David, Wilmott, Maximovich.

How to put lilies: what depth, and what scheme

So, the place for landing lilies is chosen, the soil is prepared, now you need to decide on which depth to plant lilies. Here it is necessary to take into account not only the type of lily, but also the size of the bulbs, the ability of the plant to form stem roots. Basically, the bulbs are planted into the ground to the depth, exceeding their diameter trip.

Basically, the bulbs are planted into the ground to a depth, exceeding their diameter trip.

Tall varieties with large coloring stems (Wilmott, Henry, Walking) planted deeper than indicated above, and for lilies with storm roots, more depth is needed. Planting bulbs lilies with a rosette of surface leaves (terracotta, snow-white, Katsby) is made to a depth of two centimeters, with the calculation so that the tops of the scales are located at the surface.

The depth of planting lilies also depends on the characteristics of the soil: in the sandy light soil, the bulWhi is better to be deepened than in heavy soil. In general, a deeper landing provides bulbs sufficient humidity in summer, the optimal temperature in winter, protection against frosts in spring. On a long underground part there are more bulbs and stem roots.

Video about growing and landing lilies

Lily landing scheme is represented by three options:

  • single-line tape with a distance of 5-15 cm between lily bulbs in a row and 50 cm between the lines;
  • twin-line tape (for average lilies) with a distance between the bulbs 15-25 cm, 25 between the lines, and between the ribbons are withstanding 70 cm;
  • three-line tape (for low lilies) with a distance between the bulbs 10-15 cm, withstanding between ribbons and lines as much as with a two-line planting.

Tell briefly and about how to plant lilies. First of all, dug the pockets in the selected scheme to the desired depth. Prepare protective cushions in each hole made of a mixture of washed river sand With ash. On the sand pillows Square the bulbs, gently paint their roots and a little indulgent bulwing in the sand. Top pumped the hole with soil, pour and inspire peat. On this landing lilies are over.

11 minutes will take reading

Lilies - one of the popular perennial colors found on dumart sites often enough. The plant has a rich history. Mention of Him is found in ancient legends, it is empowered medical propertiesBut, first of all, from others this flower is distinguished by refinement and beauty. This article will help answer the question of how to grow lilies.

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The plant has about 80 species, from which a considerable amount of hybrids is obtained. Flowers shape is different: flat, star, involaid, bell, funnel -ide, tubular, chalmidoid.

Asian lilies

The most popular the following types of plants:

  1. Asian. These include: Dutch lily, spotted, bulbous, tiger, monochrome, turning, dwarf, Maximovich, David. This also includes lilies of the group of the Fiesta, as well as the hybrids of F. Skinner, I. Taylor, E. Palmera, MID-Senchuri, S. Patterson, P. Bayama,. The latter are bred by Canadian scientists and are not afraid low temperatures. Their advantages: unpretentiousness, endurance, withstand cold, unpretentious to lighting, easily multiply. Disadvantages - no fragrance. Asian varieties prefer neutral soils or weakly acids. We multiply bulbs and seeds. Seed germination - 70%. At the height of the plant can reach 150 cm. Blossom starts from the end of July.
  2. Martagon. The source of this variety is considered to be Walking. These hybrids include groups: Paisley, Beckhauses Hybrid, Marhanan. Benefits include: frost resistance, unpretentiousness to the soil, durability, are not susceptible to viruses. Martag Hybrids are rarely used in landscaping.
  3. Candidum These include hybrids derived from chalcedony, snow-white and others. Candidum prefer alkaline soils and open well-lit plots. The main drawback is often amazed by fungal diseases.
  4. American. This group includes: Lilia Parry, Humbold, Yerbank, Leopard, Colombian and others. Due to their capriciousness, American lilies are not too wide. Growing in soils with low acidity, abundance of sunlight and with good watering. Do not tolerate reset.
  5. Long-color. The most popular among them Lilia Formozskaya and L. Gully. IN middle lane Russia is withstanding the winter only with good shelter, in the north they do not come true. Many varieties are suitable mainly for growing in pots.
  6. Tubular. This group It is one of the most extensive. This includes such groups as: Sunbert, Golden Showeers, Harts Dezair, Golden Clairion and others. Their advantages: frost resistance, are not subject to viral diseases, almost not afraid of fungi, it is almost unguarded. Prefer garden soil filled with humus. Some varieties require limestone soil. Blossom lasts throughout the summer.
  7. Eastern. Lilia Henry, Golden, Japanese are very popular. The varieties are quite capricious in growing matters, often suffer from diseases, poorly multiply. Require a good shelter for the winter.
  8. La hybrids (Asian and long color). Good grow in open soil. Hybrid data is distinguished by frost resistance and are practically not subject to. Conduct neutral soils. It is advisable to warm on the winter peat.
  9. Eastern and tubular hybrids (from). Used for year-round outlines of colors. Do not require much attention when growing.
  10. Eastern and long-flowered hybrids (LO) and Eastern and Asian (OA). Some of the new groups derived by breeders recently.
  11. Hybrid of long-color and tubular (LP-hybrids, ongipettes). Have a high frost resistance. Growing well in the northern regions of Russia.
  12. Aa-hybrids (Asian and Oleian Lilies). Appeared in Russia in the early 2000s. Well tolerate frosty winters.

Lilies from the hybrid

Reference. For the Russian climate, the most suitable from hybrids and Asian.

Acquisition of Lukovitz

Before buying bulbs, it is necessary to establish their belonging to a particular variety. The landing conditions and agrotechnical techniques depend on it. The main criterion for selecting planting material - quality. The ideal length of living roots is 5 cm. The bulbs themselves must be solid, without rotten or moldy scales.

Lily bulbs

Light bulbs with thin scales to buy is not recommended, as they need special care. In this case, planting material It suggests that the plant went on sale after the winter surveillance. Putting them in the spring, you should not wait for flowering in the summer.

When buying Lukovitz in early spring Or in winter, they are put in a plastic bag with a moss or dry upper peat. A holes are made in the package, after which they are removed into the refrigerator before landing. If the material is packaged, but began to germinate, it is necessary to cut the packaging and enable unhindered growth. Storage temperature is not lower than +2 and no higher than +5 degrees.

Dry bulbs can be returned to life wrapped them into a dense wet fabric 2-3 hours before landing. Do not allow damage.

Preparation of soil

The soil is drunk (up to 40 cm deep) and a good drainage is arranged. You can make phosphorus-potash fertilizer or humus. Sand soils are diluted with peat, and clay - sand.

Sour soil are detrimental for lilies. Wood ashes (up to 200 g per 1 sq.m) or chalk (up to 500 g) are made to reduce acidity. Optimal acidity - 6.5 pH.

Lilies are useful wood ash

It is desirable that the land is fresh, that is, other plants were not grown in it. An artificial substrate is often used to replace the soil.

Infected with microorganisms, the land is subjected to heat treatment, that is, a solarization.

The soil must be wet throughout the season. Stressed watering requires plants in the second half of summer or after flowering period.

Lilies: landing and care

When landing, it should be borne in mind that the plant is not recommended to disturb the minimum of 4 years. It is not recommended to plant one bully different varieties, it is better to plant them with groups from 3 pieces. Frequent transplants slow down growth.

Mostly landing is carried out in the fall (until late September). This is due to the fact that in the autumn period there comes a phase of active rustling of roots.

It is advisable to choose solar sites for landing, but the foundation itself is desirable to be pronounced by landing low annuals. If sunshind on the flowers, they acquire various shades.

The planting process occurs as follows:

  1. The depth of the landing is approximately 2 heights of the bulbs. The distance between them is at least 20 cm.
  2. The bottom of the pit is covered with gravel (for improving drainage), a small layer of soil is placed on top of it.
  3. Then there is a bulb, the earth falls asleep and slightly tamper.
  4. From above there is a small deepening, where fertilizer is poured.

  • The larger the bully, the deeper it should be planted;
  • In the presence of rodents on the site, you should use metal grid or special baskets;
  • In the fall of the bulbs are planted deeper than in the spring;
  • Lilies will reproduce faster when disembarking "on the barrels";
  • To protect against disease, you can sprinkle soil with a small amount of fundamental or wood ash.

Most varieties of lilies do not require insulation. If necessary, hide them for the winter, the hay, foliage, old raspberry branches (layer is up to 30 cm) are used. Shelter is removed immediately after the snow.

Living landing in the spring is dangerous in that at this time the plant rests at the plant. Some varieties can start blossom only for the next year. Unlike autumn planting, the spring is recommended abundant watering. The shoots that appeared are performed in the ground completely, otherwise they burn in the sun. This method allows you to get more small bulbs for breeding, and the plant itself - get more nutrients From the soil. Care for spring lilies is needed more thorough. It is recommended to plant them separately from the autumn.

Tubular lilies

Summer landing lilies are not recommended. Such plants are worse and are more susceptible to disease. Blossom will begin in best case Only the next year. When seed appears, you should remove them, in order to avoid depletion of the bulbs. Closer to the fall, the stalk dries off, but it should only cut it in the spring. In the heat is obligatory regular watering. Fertilizer summer lilies are not required.

The main care is only in soil loosening, timely removal of weeds and taking plant.

Reference. Time transplant depends on the region. In the south of Russia, the above-mentioned plant is transplanted in October-November, in the middle lane - in October, in the north - no later than September.

How to grow lilies from seeds

This method is safer in contrast to growing with bulbs. Diseases are not transmitted through the seeds. When growing lilies in large quantities, reproduction of seeds more economically.

Lilia Seeds

Landing material can be purchased in the store or get yourself. Gather seeds only healthy plantswhen seed box Already acquired a brown color, but not yet revealed. If you tighten with the collection, then the seeds can be saturated from the wind.

In reproduction, the seeds are made to divide the plants into 2 groups depending on the speed of their germination. Fast germinating varieties sprout in the first year. Slow germinating varieties for autumn give only a small bulb. Seeds can not germinate immediately, some of them can only take the next year. Sowing is made immediately on the bed or in the seaside boxes.

For planting B. open sad The place is selected, where other bulbous plants did not grow before.

  1. Soil is pre-processed and passes from weeds. The recommended bed width is 1 m.
  2. Seeds are poured across, each next line - at a distance of 15 cm from another. Singing is made in a windless day to control the thickness of the planting material.
  3. When sowing, the erosion there is a chance of a thickening, which leads to the affection of plants with gray mold.
  4. Before the onset of cold weather, the following varieties are selected: Martag, elegant, mapping lily, cultivation and care for which is carried out in normal mode.
  5. Seeds slowly germinating varieties are seen immediately after collecting.
  6. The beds are covered with a thin sandy layer (5 mm), and for the winter - insulate.
  7. In summer, the plants require feeding, regular watering and weeding beds.

Seedlings of Lily

Seed seeds are planted at the end of February or in March. The composition of the soil (1: 1): deciduous and turf humid, gravel and peat. After the seeding of the soil is covered with a layer of sand. The optimal temperature is not lower than +18, but not higher than +25 degrees. At a higher temperature, the percentage of germination decreases. On average, sprouts appear in 20 days. It is necessary to monitor the humidity of the soil and close the seedlings from the sun rays. In the fall, the resulting bulbs transplant in open ground. Flowering occurs on the second or third year.

To accelerate germination, the seeds immediately after collection are mixed with sand and stored for three months at a temperature of +5 degrees, after which it is burned into the snow for three weeks. Next they are planted in the usual order.

Fertilizer

The first feeding is made in the spring before the appearance of escapes. Well suited for lilies Mineral and organic fertilizers: Granules of nitroammofoski, ammonia Selith, Dreated Korovyat. Fresh korovyak Not suitable as a fertilizer.

Organic Fertilizers for Lily

Wood ash is used for fastening flowers and protection against disease. You can plug it up to 5 times per season.

In the second half, the canimagnesia and double superphosphate to strengthen the stalks are made.

Surplus fertilizers leads to various diseases and reduces winter hardiness.

Diseases and pests

The main ailment of Lily is a gray mold (the second name is Botritis). The disease is manifested brown spots on buds and leaves.

  • The cause of Botritis is a violation of cultivation technology, in particular, too wet soil. Mold may appear from the temperature difference in mid-August.
  • Solution: To combat the disease, it is recommended to break the soil (so that the extra moisture is not delayed), arrange a canopy above the bed. Prior to the onset of the rainy season, the soil is sprayed with medicine containing copper. The affected areas of the plant are removed.

Another alert - bacterial rot. It appears in early spring and looks like yellow spots on the leaves, passing later on the flowers. Causes extensive rotting and falling leaves.

  • Cause: Excess fertilizer (in particular - nitrogen) and too wet soil.
  • Solution: Do not use fertilizer, reduce the amount of watering.

Root rot, manifested in the form of yellowing of the tops of the plant. Infected bulbs have a healthy look, but the roots are covered with brown spots.

  • Cause: Bad soil or infected planting material.
  • Solution: Delete damaged areas, disinfect.

Rust affects the leaves of lilies. They are covered with small stains, subsequently purchasing a redhead. Disease-affected leaves dry out over time.

  • Cause: It is transferred to the sick planting material (bulbs).
  • Solution: Sick leaves are removed, the plant is processed by burgundy liquid (1%). For treatment, fungicides can be used.

As the prevention of fungal diseases, the plants spray "phytoosporin".

Among the pests are especially dangerous for lilies from Piskun, cobed tick, WLL, larvae-clutch beetles, cracking. To combat insects, regular weeding is carried out and chemical spraying (for example, "Inta-Vir"). Beetle-piskun resistant to the effects of insecticidal preparations, it is possible to fight it manually.

Piskun Beetle or Lily Beetle

Dangerous for bulbs lilies mouse. To protect against them, special grids are used, which was mentioned above.

Features of growing lilies in the northern regions of Russia

Even taking into account the frost resistance of lilies, they are far from always experiencing cold in the northern regions of Russia. For the cultivation of these plants in cold zones, the following recommendations exist:

  1. It is necessary to study the specificity of the growing grade, hybrid in concrete climatic conditions Before the acquisition of seeds or bulbs.
  2. For landing, groups are selected, well-proven themselves in a certain region.
  3. If you have a choice - buy bulbs from a collector or in the store (at the exhibition), give preference to the first. Collectors sell only those grades that grow well in the region. Exhibitions are often demonstrated by varieties that are not suitable for germination in Russia.
  4. Analyze the plot and select the appropriate place, prepare the soil.

Russian flowerflowers, answering the question of how to grow Asian or other lilies, recommend first to take care of the quality of the soil. Often on garden sites The soil is not suitable for landing lilies because of its composition or fatigue.

In contact with

Lilies are no wonder called the royal flower. On beauty they are not inferior to the most exquisite plants. Lily flowers are affected by a variety. All of them are combined into 9 groups, each of which has tens of varieties. Today they are already more than 10 thousand.

Lilies: Description

Lilies belong to bulbous plants. Lukovitsa loosely, her flakes are attached to the Don. Lily bulb size depends on the variety and can be from 1 cm to 20 cm. The growth point is located on the bottom. Roots depart from it. Some species on the stem in the summer they grow additional roots. In autumn, they die.

Stem lily grows for one year, then dies. Its height is from 5 cm to 2.5 m. The stem is covered with long pointed leaves. Their form and location depend on the type. They can be assembled in roasting sockets or mutages, sometimes evenly arranged on the stem. There are varieties in which the base of the leaf has little bulbs-kids grow.

The main pride of lily is her flowers.

Brush is formed of different shapes. It can be an umbrella or a cone. It consists of 8-16 flowers, but maybe more. The first blooms are blooming, blooming about a week, then the petals fall out, yielding the place located above. Each of the varieties blooms about the crescent.

It may seem that lily flowers have the same form. But in fact it can be different:

  • Tubular
  • Voronecoidal
  • Chalmidovna
  • Kolokolty
  • In the form of a star
  • Flat

Each flower has 6 petals and as many stamens with shaggy anthers. Flowers of terry varieties petals are greater. Their size may be different. Fluoreside 4 cm wide and 10 cm long, chalmid width up to 10 cm. And flat reach 25 cm. When buying lily bulb, you can learn about the shape of its flower on a special labeling. It is indicated by two letters written through /. The first indicates the flower direction: "A" - up, "b" - to the side, "C" - down, the second describes the form: "a" - tubular, "b" - in the form of a bowl, "c" - flat, " D "- Chalmidoid.

Colors and shades are affected by a variety. They can be almost any color other than pure blue. There are one-two-color, stains, smears, dots, border. Some lilies flowers are distinguished by a pleasant aroma. There are those who have too strong, just suffocating. Lily fruits are boxes in which seeds ripen by autumn. But until ripening, they are usually not brought, breaking the boxes. This allows the bulb to accumulate more beneficial substances for wintering and further growth, without spending them on seeds.

Lily groups are distinguished:

  • Natural, from which hybrids are created. These include sorts of snow-white, royal, tiger, curly, beautiful, dwarf.
  • Asian numbers 5 thousand varieties. Frost-resistant, unpretentious, disease-resistant. The most common. There are dwarf, medium and large (1.5 m).
  • Crispy numbered only 200 varieties. Chalmides create inflorescence, like a candelabr. Daughter bulbs are very small, so the variety is breeding. Frost resistant, grow in the shade.
  • Snow-white numbers about 3 dozen varieties. They are distinguished by a pleasant smell. We grow at sunny places, poorly tolerate frosts, often sick.
  • American hybrids combine more than 100 varieties. Their flowers are quite large, distinguished by bright color. Can grow in the shade. Do not like transplantation.
  • Tubular hybrids prefer neutral or weakly alkaline soils. In winter, they need to be stolen.
  • Oriental (oriental) hybrids 1.3 thousand varieties. Prefer sunny areas protected from wind. The soil should be loose, the reaction is the weakness. On clay land, they often get sick and die.
  • Long-color hybrids are beautiful, but do not tolerate frost. Therefore, they are grown only in greenhouses. Different with a strong smell.
  • Intervidal, among which are distinguished: la-hybrids, lo-hybrids.

Usually livous bulbs grow in one place for 4 years. Then they need to be replant, otherwise the flowers will become small due to the large number of bulukes formed over these years. A varieties whose kids grow slowly, can be grown in one place up to 7 years. These are Caucasian, drunk, tubular hybrids.

Replacing a new place or disembark after buying a bulb at the end of August - early September. Before they did not score necessary number Useful substances, not recovered after Asians can be reset even in the summer. Pumping bulbs with a pitchfork, with a room of land, so that the roots are not damaged. If lilies are planted much later, they may not have time to root to the offensive strong frosts And disappear. If it still happened, or frosts came too early, shelted the plot.

In early spring, you can transplant lilies that bloom late. This is a Tiger, White, Henry. Do not transplant in the spring of Caucasian varieties. Lilies need to be transplant immediately after removing them from the ground. They do not need to dry, not to damage the roots. Before landing, carefully inspect, cut the damaged areas, flakes and roots. Sick bulbs emit or burned.

The planting material is washed under running water half an hour, then treated with a solution of mangartage and funds.

Choose a plot on which until this lily did not grow at least 2 years. Predecessors can be any legume or annual flowers. Do not land lilies only after.

Analyze the composition of the soil. Given the features of the variety (light plot, shadow, half-day). If a groundwater It is too close to the surface of the soil, the lilies are better not to land there, so that the bulbs are not rotten. In extreme cases you need to arrange good drainage for them. But the underwent soil, not holding the water, lilies do not like. It is necessary to add to the peat soil that focused foliage.

Consider the acidity of the soil. Most lilies love neutral soils. When landing tiger, Asian hybrids add peat into the soil. Tubular hybrids, drooping, Henry, dwarf, royal do not like peat. They prefer lime and weakly acidic soils, so they need to make lime or.

The depth of planting also depends on the type. Typically lilies are immersed in the ground by 15 cm. White lilies are plugged in just a couple of centimeters, otherwise they will not bloom. Royal, friendly and other varieties that grow roots on the stem are plunge on 20 cm. In addition, the composition of the soil is taken into account. Light loose requires a deeper fit. Between the two bulbs leave the distance, which also depends on the characteristics of the variety. For large, it is 20 cm, for low-speed 10 cm.

All the bulbs are not bad to provide a pillow of washed river sand with a height of up to 4 cm. It will protect the Don excess moisture And will fight from posting. The bulbs are installed on the bottom of the prepared pits, roll up the roots, mark the landing site, fall asleep the earth. Water, mulch. You can cover the sprouts by plastic bottles.

In the spring, they remove the shelter from the site, if it was. For lilies whose buds can be frozen, it is removed after the threat of return freezers. Waiting until the soil gets up and warms up. Pour to the appearance of a rosette of leaves from under the ground is dangerous, you can damage the stem and root. Yes, and after the first sprout appears, you need to loosen the soil is not very close to it. Other stems can grow nearby.

How to care for flowers:

  • Watering lilies only during drought, bringing water under the root. Watch the water does not get on the leaves. This can lead to amazing fungal diseases.
  • Buds formed in the first year need to be removed. This will lead to abundant flowering in subsequent years.
  • High varieties of lilies are tied up to the support.
  • Several times for the lily season you need. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers contribute, during the appearance of buds - a complete complex. After flowering for the formation of the bulbs, potassium and phosphorus contribute. Use microfertilizers: water lilies with mortar copper Kaper, Boric acid, manganese.
  • In the fall, the remains of the stems are cut and burned together with other waste. Wholesale lilies are well covered before the soil freezing. After the land will vomit a few centimeters, Lily Henry, David, is slightly covered. Tubular hybrids, the royal lily is covered with a thickness of 20 cm.
  • Lilies are greatly affected by fungal diseases. Dangerous for them fungal diseases: Fusariosis, gray rot. In the spring for the prevention of these diseases, plants are processed by burgue liquid, repeating the procedure every two weeks. With damage to viral diseases, the plant is completely removed and burned.
  • Lilia amazed and some pests. The most dangerous - and onion ticks. When signs of lesion are found, insecticides are treated.

Most often, the lilies breed vegetatively. Dropping the lilies bushes, separate the small bulbs-kids or collect at the end of the summer planted to a depth of 5 cm, shelted from frost. On the third year, the plant survive on the flowerbed.

Sometimes lily flakes broken from the main bulbs. To do this, they are removed during a transplant, separating to half of the scales. Wash by manganese, dried, sprinkle the place of separation with crowded coal. Located in plastic bags, mixing with sand or moss-sphagnum. Ties so that more air remains in the package. Store one and a half months at 25 ° C, then a month is reduced to 18 °. During this period, small bulbs are formed near the bases of the scales. They are transferred to the cold, where they are stored until the end of August. Sit down to grow. After 2-3 years, lilies will bloom.

You can land in greenhouse, in the sand, make shelter from polyethylene or glass. Periodically moisturize the soil. After the leaves appear, several centimeters fall into the ground. Water, protect from weeds.

The species lilies breed seeds.

Sey only freshly collected. But some of them put the seedlies outside after the sowing. This is Liliya Henry, royal, tiger, turning. They are sown in February, fall asleep by 0.5 cm. Contain at 20 ° C. At the seeds of some varieties (Lily Sovichi, Kudda, shoots appear for the second year. Drawers with crops are kept at a temperature of -1 ° C. In the spring is transferred to the greenhouse. Blooms Lily grown in this way for 3-7 years.

More information can be found from the video:

Lilies - perennial, bulbous plants of the family of Lily, are common in Asia, in Europe and on the American continent. The popularity of the plant is associated with beautiful blossom and varietal variety, but lilies require special care. Consider the process of growing lilies in the open ground. Read more.

The selection of the site depends on the variety of lily. For example, Asian varieties are well evolved at sunny areas, although in half can feel quite comfortable. Asian lilies are distinguished by frost resistance, unpretentious in leaving, quickly grow.

Japanese, magnificent, reddish and curest lily fits halftime. These varieties prefer the upper part of the stem in the sun, and the lower in the shade, and do not tolerate even the slightest frosts. For this reason, decorative herbs are often planted for lilies of these varieties or low flower flowers as a border. They are common in the southern regions. In the middle strip they are grown in greenhouses.

Unpretentious in the care of tubular types of lilies. It is their preference to dackets. Tubular views are practically not ill, they are not damaged by insects and adapt in any climatic conditions.

If the bulbs are lilies from a garden nursery, be sure to consult with experts on the intricacies of care.

All varieties have lilies and general requirements To gravity conditions:

  • plot with light, nutrient soil;
  • lilies should not be located in the shade of trees;
  • the plot must be drained, without moisture;
  • it is advisable to disappoint lilies with a barrier from drafts.

The barrier can be natural or artificial origin. Artificial departures include walls of residential and economic buildings, to natural - garden trees or other tall plants.


Preparation of soil

To prepare a site under lily, it is necessary to approach responsibly, because these flowers are growing without a transplant 3 - 5 years. Lilies prefer light chernozems, so when preparing the site, it may be necessary to adjust the structure of the soil.

Heavy soils make it easy to make a peat-humid mixture with sand. All components are taken in equal amounts and are entered at a peroxide. For exhausting soils, 4 kg of humidiation / 1 mI will be needed, for podzolic - 8 kg / 1 m2.

Basically, lilies prefer neutral soils, but there are species that need a slightly alkaline or acidic soil. Before buying a specific variety, consult a specialist about this issue.


If the soil is rich in humus, organic fertilizers can be replaced by mineral additives: 30 ml of superphosphate / 30 ml of urea / 15 ml of nitroammofoski / 1 m2.

Pumping is performed on a depth of 40 cm (shone shovel). The soil under lilies is prepared in advance. If a spring landing is planned, it is necessary to make fertilizers in the fall, and, on the contrary, for the attachment of fertilizer planting in spring.

Timing of spring and autumn landing

It is clear to say when it is better to plant lilies, even specialists are not capable. In the spring, as well as in autumn landing there are its advantages and disadvantages.

Spring landing

The advantage of the spring landing becomes the preservation of the planting material. The risk of turning, reinforcing and freezing the bulbs is minimal. Eastern varieties And tubular hybrids plant early in the middle in March, immediately after the snow. Tibetan and tiger species are imprisoned in the last week of March, and terry hybrids - in the first week of April, but, of course, the timelines depend on the growing region.

Autumn planting

The autumn landing prefer most of the flower water, as it has its advantages:

  • lack of summer heat;
  • no need for regular irrigation;
  • pests do not pose threats;
  • lilies bloom before;
  • saving time in spring when on the site a lot of work.

In the fall, you can adjust the landing time. The bulbs are planted at the end of September - mid-October. The main thing - before the onset of frosts should be at least a month so that the bulbs manage to root.


Sale Lilies

Living landing can be carried out in several schemes, moreover, planting material requires careful selection and a certain preparation.

How to choose healthy bulbs

Predset preparation of bulbs begins with their inspection and careful selection. Rejected specimens or bulbs where fungal foci are visible, removed.

Healthy bulbs have:

  • cooking flakes of uniform color, white or creamy shade, without visible spots and enclosures;
  • well developed roots with a length of 3 cm - 5 cm.

With insufficient quantity sowing material You can try to treat the bulbs with the drugs "Fundazole" and "Carbafos", after reading the affected areas. Such bulbs are planted with a separate group so as not to infect healthy lilies.


The selected material before planting is kept for 20 to 30 minutes in a warm manganese solution for disinfection. Before soaking from the bulbs gently remove the top scales.

If a spring landing of lilies is carried out, the bulbs are pre-germinated in containers, which are filled with the disinfected fertile land from the site or industrial soil specifically for lilies.

Landing on bulbs

Living Lilius Bulbs are carried out in several schemes: single-line belt landing, two-line and threesty.

  1. In the first embodiment, the bulbs are placed in one row with a distance between the holes 10 cm - 15 cm and the distance between the rows of at least 50 cm.
  2. The two-line diagram suggests two tapes of bulbs with a distance between them and bulb holes at least 15 cm - 25 cm. There should be no less than 70 cm. This method is used for tall lilies.
  3. According to the threestration scheme, it is left between holes under the bulbs and between the lines of 15 cm, and in a heaten 70 cm. The scheme is chosen depending on the variety, the size of the site and the total flower composition.

How to make a hole and put a bulb:

  • The depth of the well is the double diameter of the planting onion.
  • On heavy soils on the bottom of the wells, a little small gravel or clamzit for drainage are poured.
  • A mixture of humus and fertile soil is laid on the sandy and sandy soils.
  • The bulb is placed in the hole, slightly pressing the roots into the ground.
  • The well falls asleep and tamper so that there is a small recess for feeding and irrigation.

To protect against pests and disease, the wells are dismissed with a small amount of wood ash.

IN autumn landing The bulbs are plugged into several centimeters below and protect the special braid from plastic from rodents. The heat-loving grades can be covered with a layer of mulch a layer of 30 cm from hay, foliage or straw. Sawdles are not recommended to use, as the wood scums the soil.


Sale Lily Seeds

Diseases are not transmitted through the seeds. This method of reproduction is safer, but much longer. To grow blossoming lily from seeds, it will take an average of 3 to 4 years.

Seeds are collected in healthy colors or buy in the store. Before boarding, it is necessary to determine how seeds include: quickly or slowly germinating. Fast germinating will come up for the first year. Slowly growing for autumn give only a small bulb.

Planted seeds germinate unevenly, part of the first year, part only in the future.

You can sow in open soil, but sowing in containers increases the germination of seeds.


If the seeds are planted immediately into the ground, it is important to choose a plot where no bulbous cultures were launched. SIT is performed with a ribbon method. The distance between the lines should be at least 15 cm. The thickened landing will lead to the development of infections and the death of the rapid shoots.

Slowly growing varieties are planted under the winter immediately after the collection of seeds. For a month before the landing is made by humus, and before the onset of frosts of the soil is murdered to maintain heat by foliage or hay. With the beginning of the vegetative season, the lilies will need standard departure: watering, loosening, weeding and feeding.


In containers, the seed bookmark is performed in the last days of February - the first decade of March. At the bottom of the containers laid ceramzite, it is soil mixture for lilies: peat, humus and fertile land In equal amounts. The humus can be replaced with a rising vegetation compartment.

At home, the seeds germinate about 20 days, optimal temperature For seedlings of lilies + 18 ° C - + 25 ° C. For shoots, they take care until September, after which the resulting bulbs sit down in unprotected primer.

Rules for lilies

Lush buds can be achieved by observing regular rules Care:

  1. In the first year, it does not need a spring feeder.
  2. Fertilizers are made at all over the season, after flowering. But this is only if fertilizer was introduced before landing.
  3. Before the start of flowering, tall varieties are recommended to tie.
  4. After flowering, dried buds are removed.


Watering

Lilias need moderate watering. Stagnation of water will lead to the blowing of the bulbs, disadvantage - to drying the leaves and the incorrect development of bloody.

The greatest number Moisture is necessary in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, when the plant is increasing the green mass.

In summer, watering is reduced. Water to the depth of the lucco on the bottom of the soil at the lower leaves. To extend flowering time, watering is reduced to 1 - 2 times a week. After the end of flowering, watering increases again, so that the bulbs can stock up the power.


Subordinate

For annual plants, the only feeding is performed after flowering with complex fertilizers or using potash-phosphoric agrochemicals.

In plants of age 2-4 years old, the first feeding is performed after the snow supply in March with nitric fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate: 20 g / 1 MI of the flower garden.

You can use the infusion of the cowboat of weak concentration so as not to harm the bulbs.

The second feeding falls on the formation of buds. It is convenient to use complex compounds of ammophos or nitroammofoski at the rate of 30 ml of fertilizer / 10 liters. Third feeding - after flowering: 30 g of superphosphate / 30 g of potassium salt / 1 m2.

How to cut the flowers

Usually lilies are not cut and leave blooming on the flower bed to strengthen the bulbs and provide abundant blossom For the next year. But sometimes you want to make a bouquet and decorate the room or living room with lilies.

To decrease negative impact Trimming, you need to learn how to cut the flowers correctly:

  • sliced \u200b\u200blilies only in the morning clock or with the onset of twilight, day to cut flowers only in cloudy weather;
  • for cutting, use a sterile tool, an alcohol or pharmacy solution of iodine is used to handle the knife;
  • do not cut off the stem at the very base, leave a third of the stem and adjacent leaves for full nutritional nutrition;
  • perform a cut at an angle, after watering or precipitation, the water will not be stamped on the stem.


Transplant periods

Most lilies of transplant will be required approximately 1 time in 3 - 5 years. But some varieties, for example, Martogon transplanted once in a decade. And the common varieties of tubular, as well as the Asian lilies are seeded in a year, these hybrids grow so quickly.

Separate thickened landings in spring or after the end of the growing season in the fall, it all depends on the climate and the varietality of the grown lilies. Flowers like the autumn transplant, when the bulbs are practically in full peace.

But what to do with Asian and tubular hybrids, which are flowing a month before the onset of the first frosts and just do not have time to take care? In this case, the transplant is performed in the spring when the soil warms up to a temperature of + 10 ° C, and the average daily air temperature will be at least + 15 ° C.

The landing time is taken and the growing region is taken. In the middle lane, the autumn transplant is performed at the end of August - the first half of September, in the southern areas of work can be transferred to October month, and in the north - it is held immediately after flowering.

Asian varieties are not completely limited in time spring transplant. They transplanted them from the beginning of the spring until the time of flowering. Pour Lily's abundantly after a transplant and dispel buds to improve survival.


Reproduction of scales

The most common method of breeding in lilies is vegetative - bulbs. Less than the cultivation of seeds. But there is another non-standard method - reproduction of flakes, the cod of a bulb is divided into scales and plant in the ground. Abundant watering contributes to the germination and development of a full-fledged plant.

Features of growing after distortion

The reasons why lilies do not bloom, maybe several. Scorching sun, disadvantaged watering, irregular feeding, damaged by diseases of the bulbs for landing. All these problems can be adjusted by transplanting the plant, increasing watering and in time bringing fertilizers.

It should be noted that in the first year of lily may not bloom at all or form a small amount of buds. This is a normal phenomenon caused by insufficient rooting and the development of bulbs.


Despite the absence of buds, it is necessary to carry out normal lilies care: to feed at the end of the vegetative period, to water and loose soil on time. With proper care for the second year, Lily will definitely please the beautiful buds.

Newbies in flower growing are considered to be a sophisticated flower for growing. You could make sure that the care of lilies is not more difficult than for others. bulbous plants. Choose several varieties with different flowering timing, and beauty lily will decorate your garden all summer.