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Today, laminate flooring is the most relevant and demanded floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical and advisable. For such rooms the best option there will be ceramic tiles. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tile and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles and differ in thickness. Therefore, they must be laid out on the same level in order to get a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tiles in order to keep the wood from different temperatures and moisture could expand or contract without being damaged or swollen.

Installation of sills

The most convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install sills. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered a huge selection of nut sills. They are different in material: plastic sills, wooden sills, metal or aluminum sills, etc. different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden sills

Wooden sills are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They are perfect for laminate flooring. This can even be seen from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic sills. And therefore they are not used with a wave-like joint. I would also like to note that wooden sills are whimsical to use and require special care.

Plastic nut

For a wavy joint, a plastic nut is perfect. They have been on the market relatively recently, but they quickly became popular and in demand. The lugs bend well, taking the desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal nut

If you want to use more durable material for the nut, then choose metal. Metal sills are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety on the market. The metal door sill can be chosen in the color of the laminate or tiles, and you can also consider the color option of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If there is a situation that the laminate and tiles are at different levels, then in this case you can use a multilevel metal sill, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber sills

Aluminum sills are used mainly for smooth joints. And for undulating joints, rubber sills are better suited. will not be difficult. This work can be done by hand and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between the materials. To fix the nut, it is necessary to pre-make holes in the screed for the screws. They are usually sold complete with a nut. It is enough to fasten the nut with screws to make it motionless.

Fastening the sills

It happens that there are no screws in the kit. In this case, the sill between the tile and the laminate can be fixed in a different way. Immediately fill the gap with silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. As a fastening of the sills, you can use the fastening rails, which are screwed to the screed with self-tapping screws. It is on the fastening strips that the laminate and tile sill is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible sill or molding

To close undulating joints various materials you can also use a flexible nut. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is fixed above the floor covering. Would need additional fixation with screws. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it, it is worth lowering the sill to warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use sills and moldings

A gutter or molding is needed to close the joint between the tile and the laminate and give it an attractive appearance. The sills also prevent dust and moisture from entering, which will save your laminate from the inside. The splines also hide the narrowing and widening of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

Every home craftsman who first started cladding knows how to join tiles in the corners. And it is only with experience that the understanding is born that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years, true mastery comes, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but much more ways to decorate both the outer and inner corner. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

The first step is the layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with a layout, since in typical apartments not only perfect right angles do not exist, but also perfect smooth walls... The master tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls, floor, examines the corners in order to choose a way to decorate each one. It depends on which method of joining the tiles in the outer and inner corners will be chosen:

• choice of tools for performing work;
• the number of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most visible. For example, for a bathroom, this is a wall opposite front door... It is laid out first, and only then - the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start cladding from a corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that gaps, sometimes several centimeters wide, will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, which will have to be laid out in tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating the inner corner. This can be done in the following ways:

• by means of an overhead corner (trim)
• registration of a regular seam without additional details.

Corner decoration with a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice craftsmen. With experience, however, comes the understanding that a plastic part, rarely perfectly matching in color with, rather cheapens than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall coverings. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the hostess - because they quickly get dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to clean.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Self-joining the tiles in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, the corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method has its drawbacks. This is the professionalism of the master as necessary condition and a high likelihood of joint cracking due to the tile's natural tendency to narrow and widen. This problem occurs especially often when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

Prevention of the formation of cracks are:

• correct calculation of the seam width;
• use in vertical internal corners of sanitary silicone.

Important! Registration inner corner It is not permissible without the use of an overhead corner and without a seam design! The result of this styling will be a black gap at the junction. It will be possible to correct the appearance only with silicone. But it is unlikely that it will be possible to pick it up exactly to the tone of the grout.

How to join outside corner tiles

There are many more ways to decorate the outer corner. It:

• the use of trims and;
• technology for trimming the ends of tiles at an angle of 45 °;
• simple styling one row of tiles to the edge of another;
• corner formation with grout.

Method 1: Using a corner trim to lay outside corners

Today shops offer a wide range of corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries, trims are used universally, due to the ease of the method of shaping the corners. In Russia, mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be not like everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding crush the room, visually making it even smaller;
• fragility of plastic trims, and their high tendency to get dirty;
• high cost of metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of facing the outer corners.

Installing the trim angle

Installation decorative corner is made after one wall in the room is completely tiled. Then, over the entire height of the corner, using the assembly gun is applied silicone sealant... The straight side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjoining wall. V further tiles it is laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after the end of the work, the seams between the tile and trim are overwritten. Installation is carried out in a similar way decorative element and in the corners located horizontally.

Method 2. Undercut the edge of a tile at an angle of 45 °

If the question "How to connect the tiles in the outer corners?" the master replies: "Of course, at an angle of 45 °!" - in front of you is a real professional. Simply because this method is too tough for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movements and a lot of time. In addition, you cannot do without good tool, namely the angular grinder... She works with the help diamond disc... If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a pivot-type tile cutter.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. One has only to bang hard on the edge of the masonry, and with a great probability the tile will break off. Nevertheless, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other way of designing the corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly with each other, and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3. Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for novice craftsmen, because there is nothing difficult in it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outermost tile of which simply overlaps the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this method of laying is chosen for laying tiles with a relief, because in most cases it is chosen, giving in to the opinion that the seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is really the case, as well as what is embossed, it is very difficult to beautifully dock in the corners.

Another type of laying method is staggered: in the first row, a tile of one wall is placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when facing rooms. As a result, the masonry turns out to be deliberately careless, as appropriate as possible in country or loft-style interiors.

Method 4. Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without undercutting and without protrusion at the outer corner. The resulting gap is made in the form of a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that the technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and among customers. While it does solve a common problem: eliminate fragility outer corner and prevent seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls... Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideal-shaped room, it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to standard sizes material. The resulting seams should be not only invisible, but also strong so that the coating does not rip up over time. Special attention requires a linoleum joint between rooms, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To find a suitable method of connecting the coating, it is worth considering possible options joint design and devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

There are several ways to close the joints of linoleum. They differ both in the complexity of the work carried out and in the cost of materials and tools. Moreover, the quality of the final result will also be different.

• Securing the edges of the cover with double-sided tape. This method is good for its cheapness and simplicity of execution. But the reliability of the connection of the joints in this case will remain in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to bulge.

• The use of sills and linings for linoleum. Another inexpensive method that is quite reliable. The only negative is that such an element will differ from the rest of the coating and protrude slightly above the floor surface.
• Edge bonding with dispersion adhesive. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing the material to the rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
• ... For the monolithic connection of the coating strips, glue is used, melting the edges and, after drying, firmly fastening them together. You can work with it at home, it is suitable for both household and commercial linoleum.

• ... It is carried out with the help of a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for commercial type linoleum, rather complicated for independent execution. The connection turns out to be invisible.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to close up the joints of household linoleum using decorative sills.

What are sills for linoleum joints

Nut in doorway connecting the joints of floor materials between rooms - simple and cheap way, allowing you to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible installation flaws.

Advantages of the method:

1. It is very easy to fix the sill with the supplied screws or Liquid Nails glue directly to the subfloor.
2. The pad is reusable and easy to replace.
3. The bar will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt.
4. The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Competent selection of color renders this element practically unobtrusive.
5. The walkways have a decorative function - the design of the room will look complete.
6. If you decide to lay coverings of different thickness on a single-level floor, an overlay on the seam will help smooth out the difference between them.

But the sills also have their drawbacks:

1. The plank will protrude (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
2. The threshold can be mounted only in the doorway or under the arch; the seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden in this way.

When installing the sills, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the flooring.

Types of sills

To close the joints of pieces of linoleum with each other or with another floor covering, you can use overlays that are different in purpose and material.

Depending on the design and method of application, there are the following types of sills:

• Straight lines - for linoleum joints of the same thickness.
• Multilevel - compensate for height differences on the floor, with their help coverings of different thicknesses can be joined.
• Finishing - for sealing the edges of linoleum without joining with other materials.
• Corner - for seams and edges flooring on the stairs.

Planks are made from different materials:

• Brass and aluminum metal sills are the most popular because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often they are painted in bronze, gold or silver.

• Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to design rounded joints, and the price of products is much lower. The requirements for them are spelled out in GOST 19111-77, which refers to the sills doorways to semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible strip performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the flooring.

• Rubber pads can have an aluminum base, non-slip.
• Wooden sills and MDF planks are rarely used due to the high cost and the tendency to swell from moisture.
• Cork products are popular for their environmental friendliness, softness and long term service. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to attach the pads to the joints of the coating

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to fix the strips. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

• Mounting on self-tapping screws is much more reliable; in products with a decorative plug, fasteners are not visible.
• The glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases when the subfloor is loose and cannot hold screws.

As a rule, the floor in the apartment is different rooms trimmed with different qualities and physical properties materials. Most often, their choice is stopped on porcelain stoneware and laminate. At the same time, of course, floor transitions inevitably appear - the joints of tiles and laminates.

You can join the tile with the laminate in one of the following ways:
Flexible profile made of aluminum or PVC;
H-shaped profile made of aluminum or brass;
Flat aluminum nut.
Docking with flexible profile

Before installing the joint between the tile and the laminate with a flexible profile, it is necessary to appreciate the degree of stress on this particular area of ​​the floor. For example, if the transition is located in the area between the hallway and the adjacent room, then the load on the sill will be high. Therefore, it is optimal to mount a flexible aluminum profile in this area. At the same time, it is better to arrange the transitions between the bathroom and the corridor with a flexible PVC profile. On this site constantly high humidity and the transition from aluminum can begin to oxidize and break down prematurely.

The flexible joint profile consists of two parts: a fixed base in the shape of the letter "P" and an upper decorative cover in the shape of the letter "T". The installation of the transition in this way must be foreseen in advance. That is, when tiling and laying laminate, a seam of at least 20 mm is left between the materials, since standard width U-shaped base is 14 mm. The remaining 3 mm along the edge of each vertical base flange serves as a damping gap.
Initially, an accurate measurement of the future floor connection is made. If the transition between different materials has a not even, but, for example, a curved trajectory, then it is measured using a regular thread. The thread is laid out along a curved trajectory, after which the thread is pulled and its length is measured with a tape measure. Further, the workpiece necessary in size is cut off from the flexible profile using a small grinder. To mount the connection, begin with pasting with self-adhesive damping tape back side U-shaped profile.
After pasting in the U-shaped base with a step of 10-15 cm, holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled. Next, the base is laid exactly at the place of its attachment and marks are made on the surface of the screed with a pencil through the holes. In the future, according to the markings made, they are drilled into concrete screed to a depth of 5-8 cm using an impact drill with a victorious drill in the chuck. Further, the U-shaped base is mounted to the screed using anchor expansion dowels. After that, manually with slight pressure, a T-shaped decorative profile is inserted from above into the U-shaped base.

Advantage this method: Over time, the transition may wear out, however, during its repair, it will not be necessary to make any installation works... It is enough to manually remove the worn-out decorative cap and install a new cover in its place in the base.
Disadvantage of the method: if a heated floor made of electric thermomats is mounted in the transition area, then it is impossible to drill into the screed.

Docking with H-shaped aluminum profile

This type of transition is characterized by the fact that at the end of the work you will get a joint between tiles and laminate without a sill, well, or the sill will be completely insignificant, with a height of only 1.5-2 mm. An H-shaped profile is mounted at the stage of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor. Laying on the glue and leveling the last row of porcelain stoneware, the lower shelf of the H-shaped profile is placed in the glue layer. At the same time, its upper shelf is 10 mm on the surface of the floor tiles.

If the moment was missed when tiling the floor with tiles, then in order to mount the H-shaped connecting transition, it is necessary to clean the glue under the edge of the tile to a depth of 25-30 mm with a knife. Next, all dust is removed from the resulting seam with a vacuum cleaner and, on the surface of the seam, construction gun uniform layer liquid nails... Next, an aluminum transition is cut to size and inserted under the tile directly through the layer of liquid nails.
The opposite bottom shelf is attached to the screed either with liquid nails or spacer screws. When the liquid nails are well dry, the laminate is laid in such a way that it fits between the horizontal flanges of the profile at a distance of at least 10 mm.

The advantage of this method: it is possible to make a joint between the laminate and the tiles with practically no sill.
Disadvantage of the method: for the reliability of installation, it is still better to mount the H-shaped transition simultaneously with the laying of the last row of tiles.

Tile and laminate joint with aluminum sill

I must say right away that we are talking about a flat or slightly curved sill made of aluminum with hidden fastening. Not to be confused with a sill with an open fastening, which is mainly mounted outside the apartment on open surfaces or tiled steps.
By design, the aluminum sill with hidden fastening is a flat or slightly curved profile, on the underside of which small shelves are located at an angle to each other. To close the joint between the laminate and the tile with such a decorative sill, you must initially cut it to a strictly measured size. Next, you need to select anchor screws so that when the screw is placed in the groove, its head is held between the lower shelves.

If such self-tapping screws are not available, then they are made independently. To do this, take long self-tapping screws, shorten their length and grind the cap in a circle so that the self-tapping screw can be run between the shelves.
At the next stage, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the screed at the installation site of the nut. The step between the holes should be no more than 15-20 cm. B drilled holes empty PVC spacer tubes from anchors are clogged. Further, in the lower groove of the nut, they run required amount self-tapping screws. Each self-tapping screw is lightly nailed by hand in a PVC spacer tube. At this stage, the nut and the baited screws should be perfectly aligned without distortions.
On top of the decorative sill, a dry floor cloth is laid in several layers, after which it is placed on the cloth wooden block... Further, by neat and even blows of a hammer on the bar, the entire nut is sedimented, while the self-tapping screws go into the spacer tubes and ensure proper installation. To make it easier to imagine this procedure, see the photo instructions for sealing the joint between laminate and laminate - everything is identical.
The advantages of this method: sometimes they remember the sill very late and, for example, the gap between the tile and the laminate is completely absent or is a couple of mm, in this case a curved sill is used.
Disadvantages of the method: only coatings laid on the same level can be joined in this way, since it is technically impossible to make a joint that will cover the tile and laminate at different levels.

When renovating an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to the shrinkage of the house, subsidence or movement of the soil, cracks of various depths form between the floors. Create beautiful view interior with cracks in the ceiling will not work, therefore, the joints between the floor slabs will have to be filled. The procedure can be performed manually, but it has a number of peculiarities.

Tools and materials

Ceiling joints will require the preparation of tools and materials. They should be prepared before starting ceiling work with slabs.

Spatula with flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? This type of work requires:

• primer deep penetration, better . The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
• cement grade NTs, it is used to eliminate deep grooves. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill the holes during the solidification process;
• for wide gaps, a heat-insulating material is useful, the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
• putty with elastic material (latex);
• sealant;
• reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the crack width allows the metal base to be placed inside;
• starting and finishing putties.

When processing the ceiling, as well as the floor, walls, basic electrical appliances will be needed. The type of tool depends on the sealing technology, usually enough:

• various sizes of spatulas;
• metal brush;
• spray gun;
• construction knife;
• hammer drill, easy to replace with a hammer drill;
• sandpaper.

What tools will be useful to us

Before closing the joints of the slabs on the ceiling, you should take care of individual safety: goggles for eye protection, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove seams on the ceiling: the preparatory stage

Before sealing the joints on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the preparation stage of the coating. The surface should be solid and primed. It is better to remove any coatings with poor adhesion: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

It is better to seal the seams of floor slabs in clean room(after wet cleaning). To achieve better adhesion and normal salinity flow of the working solution, the room must be dry. Primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

It is important to wait until the previous one hardens before proceeding to the application of the next coat. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide, shallow joint

In the presence of shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm or more, it is better to use a filler, polyurethane foam.

Repairing a seam is a rather laborious work that must be done scrupulously, otherwise later bad job will be visible

How to seal the seam between the slabs on the ceiling with foam? For this:

1. Introduce into the recess assembly gun and fill the hole with foam.
2. Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
3. With a construction knife, all protruding parts are removed, it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
4. The recess is treated with an elastic filler. It is convenient to use the material with the help of 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. The mixture is stored on a wide tool, and putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
5. The seams on the ceiling are covered with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Working with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between slabs on the ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and relatively great depth, do not use foam.

Algorithm of work:

1. Filling the recess thermal insulation material... Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for the purpose.
2. Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum moisture resistance.
3. After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove is left with a depth of up to 5 mm.
4. After the cement has completely solidified, a latex type of putty is applied on top, it is used to level the plane of the slab.
5. With a spatula, remove the extra layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Instead of foam for filling deep cracks, you can use glue for ceramic tiles

Working with a deep and narrow seam

It is better to close narrow but deep seams between floor slabs using the same method as in the previous case.

How to seal the joints in the ceiling between the slabs? The sequence of work is as follows:

1. A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation, it is placed inside the groove. The material should be pushed firmly into the recess.
2. After high-quality ramming with insulation, about 1 cm of depth should remain for adding NC cement. It is important to leave a groove of 5 mm.
3. On frozen cement mortar apply a latex putty, level it with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing between panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire complex of processing so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the ground moves, the base of the building, the floor seams will crack again, all the work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks can be an incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of the construction technology, which makes the building shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the house insulation and lay the water supply in advance to prevent destruction load-bearing walls and the foundation afterwards.

Latex putty. For sealing the seams, just such a putty is more suitable.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

1. Wait until the latex putty hardens, complete drying takes about 2 days.
2. Preparation for the reinforcement of the recess. A starting layer of putty is applied, it is laid with a slight protrusion over the edges by 4-5 cm.
3. A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material, a roller or narrow spatula will do.
4. A spatula is passed along the filler to remove excess.
5. After solidification of the material, the surface should be treated sandpaper with fine to medium grain.
6. Reapplication of the starting putty will help create the perfect plane, cleaning is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
7. A finishing putty is applied on top.
8. After hardening, they are re-processed with sandpaper.
9. The final stage is painting or pasting the ceiling.

Plastering

If, in parallel with the destroyed seams on the ceiling, there is a significant slope in either direction, it should be leveled. The best way is plastering compounds, their installation is preceded by the installation of the mesh. The whole work surface cover the concrete contact with soil, it contains solid, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a composition of cement with gypsum is prepared.

The seams on the ceiling are most often repaired simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling.

Close up the hole

As a result of ignoring building codes, a marriage may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. Sealing ceiling seams between the plates is done in one of two ways.

First way:

1. With a brush with an extended handle, the hole is cleaned from the inside.
2. It is important to remove loose dust by creating a strong adhesion; for this, the entire surface is thoroughly sprayed with a spray gun with the soil.
3. Polyurethane foam is blown inside.
4. After complete solidification, cut off areas with excess material using a sharp knife.
5. A cone-shaped depression is cut out with a height of 4-5 cm.
6. The recess is sealed with NTs grade cement and the material is waiting for solidification.
7. The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a serpyanka mesh is laid inside.
8. The subsequent operations do not differ from the sealing of the joints on the ceiling between the slabs.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

1. An impromptu frame is created, which will fit end-to-end into the hole, it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
2. The fixation of the frame is carried out with the help of a sealant, it is better to use it intended for the repair of plumbing and walls during wet rooms... If the purpose of the material is damp walls, the use of a ceiling repair will often lead to a better result.
3. After solidification in the cavity, a lattice is obtained, it will provide a strong fixation of the solution.
4. A mixture of NC solution is prepared, you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
5. Plywood is fastened from below with a support, it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
6. The wooden board is removed only after hardening, then the finishing is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly follow the sequence and be attentive.

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: methods of sealing

The presence of not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also the walls is characteristic. It will not be possible to qualitatively finish the surface without eliminating the cracks.

• construction foam;
• gypsum solution;
• synthetic type putty;
• putty for outdoor use.

The simplest and effective material- foam, which expands during solidification and fills the voids.

If the joints are rather large, further protection against cracking is worth taking care of. Reinforcing mesh will help prevent the appearance of cracks, alternative materials- cotton, linen fabrics that are soaked in adhesive solution... The fabrics are stacked over the hole. On the final stage a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface alignment

Regardless of the method for removing defects, it is important to create a quality topcoat. To level the surface, use abrasive mixtures.

Latex Putty Application Process

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use interlining. It is glued to the ceiling up to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps to eliminate minor irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with soil after the final leveling layer, this will help prevent deterioration of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste over or whitewash.

Building a building and creating an attractive appearance- this is complex task, which requires taking into account many factors:

• creation a solid foundation prevents cracking at corners and between floor slabs. Before, it is important to carefully conduct preparatory work: study of the soil, study of the level of soil freezing, the creation of the correct marking and tamping of the surface. provides a service life of up to 150 years only if the laying technology is followed;
• to preserve heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of thermal energy through the floor. One of better ways - ;
• v multi-storey buildings it is better to study the floor slab plan in advance, this will help identify potential vulnerabilities in the structure and eliminate them during the repair phase;
• when building housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical characteristics and is absolutely safe for health;

• working with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So can concrete be poured in winter? - Yes, but you will need to add special mixtures to the composition or electric heating of concrete;
• if you plan to build a house from aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce every 2-3 rows. They lay the reinforcement inside the block recesses, which creates a chasing cutter for aerated concrete;

Holes of various sizes can be sealed if the technology is correctly followed. It is recommended to choose one of existing ways elimination of ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.