Every home craftsman who first started cladding knows how to join tiles in the corners. And it is only with experience that the understanding is born that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years, true mastery comes, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but much more ways to decorate both the outer and inner corner. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

The first step is the layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with a layout, since in typical apartments not only perfect right angles do not exist, but also perfect smooth walls... The master tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls, floor, examines the corners to choose a way to decorate each one. It depends on which method of joining the tiles in the outer and inner corners will be chosen:

• choice of tools for performing work;
• the number of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most visible. For example, for a bathroom, this is the wall opposite the front door. It is laid out first, and only then - the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start cladding from a corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that gaps, sometimes several centimeters wide, will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, which will have to be laid out in tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating the inner corner. This can be done in the following ways:

• by means of an overhead corner (trim)
• registration of a regular seam without additional details.

Corner decoration with a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice craftsmen. With experience, however, comes the understanding that a plastic part, rarely perfectly matching in color with, rather cheapens than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall coverings. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the hostess - because they quickly get dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to clean.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Self-joining the tiles in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, the corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method has its drawbacks. This is the professionalism of the master as necessary condition and a high likelihood of joint cracking due to the tile's natural tendency to narrow and widen. This problem occurs especially often when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

Prevention of the formation of cracks are:

• correct calculation of the seam width;
• use in vertical internal corners of sanitary silicone.

Important! Registration inner corner It is not permissible without the use of an overhead corner and without a seam design! The result of this styling will be a black gap at the junction. It will be possible to correct the appearance only with silicone. But it is unlikely that it will be possible to pick it up exactly to the tone of the grout.

How to join outside corner tiles

There are many more ways to decorate the outer corner. It:

• the use of trims and;
• technology for trimming the ends of tiles at an angle of 45 °;
• simple laying of one row of tiles on the edge of another;
• corner formation with grout.

Method 1: Using a corner trim to lay outside corners

Stores now offer a wide range of corner tile profiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries, trims are used universally, due to the ease of the method of shaping the corners. In Russia, mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be not like everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding crush the room, visually making it even smaller;
• fragility of plastic trims, and their high tendency to get dirty;
• high cost of metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of facing the outer corners.

Installing the trim angle

Installation decorative corner is made after one wall in the room is completely tiled. Then, silicone sealant is applied over the entire height of the corner using an assembly gun. The straight side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjoining wall. In the future, the tile is laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after the end of the work, the seams between the tile and trim are overwritten. Installation is carried out in a similar way decorative element and in the corners located horizontally.

Method 2. Undercut the edge of a tile at an angle of 45 °

If the question "How to connect the tiles in the outer corners?" the master replies: "Of course, at an angle of 45 °!" - in front of you is a real professional. Simply because this method is too tough for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movements and a lot of time. In addition, you cannot do without good tool, namely the angular grinder... She works with the help diamond disc... If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a pivot-type tile cutter.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. One has only to bang hard on the edge of the masonry, and with a great probability the tile will break off. Nevertheless, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other way of designing the corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly with each other, and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3. Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for novice craftsmen, because there is nothing difficult in it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outermost tile of which simply overlaps the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this method of laying is chosen for laying tiles with a relief, because in most cases it is chosen, giving in to the opinion that the seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is really the case, as well as what is embossed, it is very difficult to beautifully dock in the corners.

Another type of laying method is staggered: in the first row, a tile of one wall is placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when facing rooms. As a result, the masonry turns out to be deliberately careless, as appropriate as possible in country or loft-style interiors.

Method 4. Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without undercutting and without protrusion at the outer corner. The resulting gap is made in the form of a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that the technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and among customers. While it does solve a common problem: eliminate fragility outer corner and prevent seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls... Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideal-shaped room, it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to standard sizes material. The resulting seams should be not only invisible, but also strong so that the coating does not rip up over time. The linoleum joint between rooms requires special attention, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To find a suitable method of connecting the coating, it is worth considering possible options joint design and devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

There are several ways to close the joints of linoleum. They differ both in the complexity of the work carried out and in the cost of materials and tools. Moreover, the quality of the final result will also be different.

• Securing the edges of the cover with double-sided tape. This method is good for its cheapness and simplicity of execution. But the reliability of the connection of the joints in this case will remain in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to bulge.

• The use of sills and linings for linoleum. Another inexpensive method that is quite reliable. The only negative is that such an element will differ from the rest of the coating and protrude slightly above the floor surface.
• Edge bonding with dispersion adhesive. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing the material to the rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
• ... For the monolithic connection of the coating strips, glue is used, melting the edges and, after drying, firmly fastening them together. You can work with it at home, it is suitable for both household and commercial linoleum.

• ... It is carried out with the help of a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for commercial type linoleum, rather complicated for independent execution. The connection turns out to be invisible.

Let us dwell in more detail on how to close up the joints of household linoleum using decorative sills.

What are sills for linoleum joints

Nut in doorway connecting the joints of floor materials between rooms - simple and cheap way, allowing you to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible installation flaws.

Advantages of the method:

1. It is very easy to fix the nut using the supplied screws or Liquid Nails glue directly to rough floor.
2. The pad is reusable and easy to replace.
3. The bar will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt.
4. The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Competent selection of color renders this element practically unobtrusive.
5. The walkways have a decorative function - the design of the room will look complete.
6. If you decide to lay coverings of different thickness on a single-level floor, an overlay on the seam will help smooth out the difference between them.

But the sills also have their drawbacks:

1. The plank will protrude (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
2. The threshold can be mounted only in the doorway or under the arch; the seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden in this way.

When installing the sills, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the flooring.

Types of sills

To close the joints of pieces of linoleum with each other or with another floor covering, you can use overlays that are different in purpose and material.

Depending on the design and method of application, there are the following types of sills:

• Straight lines - for linoleum joints of the same thickness.
• Multilevel - compensate for height differences on the floor, with their help coverings of different thicknesses can be joined.
• Finishing - for sealing the edges of linoleum without joining with other materials.
• Corner - for seams and edges flooring on the stairs.

Planks are made from different materials:

• Brass and aluminum metal sills are the most popular because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often they are painted in bronze, gold or silver.

• Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to design rounded joints, and the price of products is much lower. The requirements for them are spelled out in GOST 19111-77, which refers to the sills doorways to semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible strip performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the flooring.

• Rubber pads can have an aluminum base, non-slip.
• Wooden sills and MDF planks are rarely used due to the high cost and the tendency to swell from moisture.
• Cork products are popular for their environmental friendliness, softness and long term service. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to attach the pads to the joints of the coating

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to fix the strips. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

• Mounting on self-tapping screws is much more reliable; in products with a decorative plug, fasteners are not visible.
• The glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases when the subfloor is loose and cannot hold screws.

A common problem when doing repairs isjoint between tile and laminate, which is formed when two coatings are connected in different rooms or zones. Due to the difference in the thickness of the materials, a small but unpleasant step appears, which must be somehow removed or decorated.

In contact with

Why is it beneficial to combine materials

The need for such a connection can hardly be called indisputable, but in some cases this is, indeed, the only option for combining two materials. ... For example, if furniture or appliances on legs are used that spoil the laminate, a warm floor is used, which is more effective under the tiles. In addition, the combination is convenient in the hallway for education in front of front door an area with a more water-resistant and easy-to-clean surface, in a kitchen where there is a danger of spilling water or boiling water.

Docking laminate and tilesgives the following possibilities:

• Zoning of the area with the formation of service and common space.
• The ability to use materials different in color or texture, create your own design solution.
• Reduced labor and cost of expensive tiles.
• Formation of a more easy-to-clean surface in places where water or grease may enter.

Don't forget about decorative meaning such a connection. The ability to highlight and decorate specific areas of the floor allows you to create a stylish and fashionable interior element.

Cons of the combined coating

The transition between tile and laminatedoes not always work well enough. The disadvantages of the technique include:

• "Discontinuity" of the coating, unnatural design of the floor.
• With a small area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe room, you have to cut tiles and laminate. Violation of the geometry of the material deprives the joint of external accuracy, the result looks sloppy or unsuccessful.
• Possibility of the appearance of a "step" requiring some form of decoration or masking.

Laminate prices

What are the types

Connecting tiles and laminatecan be issued in different ways:

• Straight joint. The border between the two materials appears as a straight line.
• Wavy joint. The border looks like a curved line.

You can simply dock the materials tightly or use one of the types of special sills, produced for similar purposes.

Important:When choosing the type of joint, you should carefully consider the procedure, weigh your strengths and skills, I also have a good idea of ​​how the result will look. If changing the laminate flooring is quite simple, then the tile will be glued to the floor, its removal and replacement will require some effort.

The straight connecting line looks neat and allows whole tiles or laminate planks to be used without spoiling the look.

This option is good in small rooms or when joining coatings. different premises (this is usually done along the line of the doorway).

In addition, with careful execution of work and compliance with the thickness of the materials, it is possibletile and laminate joint without a sill, which simplifies the work by making the connection less visible.

In some cases, zigzag joining is used - the joining line runs along the end cut of the laminate boards laid with an offset. It turns out a connection with big amount straight lines perpendicular to each other.

Undulating joint

Curvilinear connection of materials can be used in rooms of sufficient area so that you can see the joint and evaluate the design intent. Sometimes this method is resorted to when it is necessary to separate zones of complex configuration, when it is more difficult to divide along a straight line than along an arc. For example, if necessary, bypass pipes, beams, pieces of furniture or household appliances.

Decorativesill between tile and laminateperforms the function of design of the joint.The boundary between the coatings is filled with a certain composition, covered from above with a special profile, or a profile is used that is installed on top of the first coating, and the second is inserted into the profile groove, as a result of which there are no fasteners on the sill (closed joint). In addition, there are sills, consisting of two parts: the first (lower) is installed in the joint between the coatings, and the second covers the joint from above, snapping into a special socket of the lower profile. There are also transition profiles designed for the design of multilevel joints.

Prices for decorative sills

decorative sills

The material for the manufacture of decorative sills can be:

• metal;
• plastic;
• wood;
• rubber;
• laminate;
• Cork.

The use of one type or another is due either to the state of the existing border between the materials (for example, the need to somehow smooth out the existing "step"), or the method of joint formation is chosen for a certain type of sill.

Attention! By choosing docking sills for the floor, the features of the coating materials should be considered, the ability to accurately and accurately cut or process both materials.

Flexible sills

Flexible sills are intended for the design of curved joints of a tile with a laminate.They are made straight, which allows them to be used on both curved and straight sections. Basically, aluminum profiles with teeth on the underside adjacent to the base are used. For bending, you need to deepen them with a hacksaw for metal. Flexible threshold PVC is capable of bending without additional processing, although some specimens require heating to form a small arc. If you intend to use it for an existing joint, you must be sure that its width will be sufficient to install the profile.

How to make podiums

Podiums are made for zoning the space of a room, highlighting a specific area intended for any purpose ... The podium device visually cuts off part of the room, creates a space that is perceived as a separate area. This does not require the construction of partitions or walls.

The podiums have one drawback - the height difference creates a very good place, to stumble, which every family member or guest will surely take advantage of sooner or later.

You should also take into account the high risk of installing a podium in the kitchen, where operations are performed with boiling water, hot dishes, cutting or sharp objects.

When creating a podiumthreshold between tiles and laminatenot required, since its role is played by the end part, tiled (most often) or trimmed with cut laminate strips. High end piece can be decorated spotlights that will be able to visually mark the border of the parcels.

How to install materials without a nut

If the coverings are joined in a straight line, you can try to join them without additional elements... Think for a long time abouthow to join tiles and laminate without a sill, there is no need - you have to work hard to arrange the joint so that the gap between the two materials is minimal. Their edges must be well finished and cut neatly.

The gap between the coatings is usually filled with some kind of elastic material - liquid cork, sealant, foam. There are other materials, but these require the creation of an ideal gap width. For example, if a thin wooden lath, it is more correct to install it one by one - tile, rail, laminate (or in reverse order).

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Clearing the gap

Installation of coverings joint to joint is carried out if the thickness of the laminate and the tile is the same. The difference in thickness is allowed up to 2 mm. Both materials are carefully matched to each other in order to obtain the smallest gap in width.

Ideally, it should not exceed the distance between adjacent tiles. Then, to fill the gap, you can use the same grout mixture (or joint) as between the tiles, combining both coatings into a single canvas.

In addition, can be usedgrout for laminate, sealant or liquid stopper.

Which material is more suitable for connection

The choice of the type of joint is best done before the installation of the coatings, so that any of the common joint means can be used. To join coatings, it is customary to use:

• straight metal nut;
• flexible nut made of metal or plastic;
• cork expansion joint;
• filling the gap with elastic hardening compounds (foam, liquid cork, sealant);
• using a fugue or grout.

In order to determine whichtile and laminate connectorbest of all in this case, you should carefully inspect the gap and immediately exclude from the list of probable materials those that cannot be used for any reason. Most likely, these reasons will be the unevenness of the gap or the inability to install the main part of the profile in it.

From the rest, you can choose the option with which it will be easiest to work. In this case, the result will be the most successful.

Important!We must not forget about the need to create a deformation gap, otherwise, with thermal expansion or swelling of the laminate, the coatings will swell along the joint line.

Installation of a flexible profile

Flexible profile consists of two parts: comb and upper visible part(actually the nut).

When installing, you must first install a comb into the gap, which is a perforated strip with a lock for attaching the upper part and cutouts for bending into the right side(hence the name - comb).

It is fastened to the subfloor using self-tapping screws through the mounting holes.

The upper part is bent in the desired configuration, the lock snaps into the counter part of the comb. In order for the bending of the material to be better, the lock does not break, it is recommended to warm up the profile construction hairdryer... It is better to do the work together. The procedure is simple, but requires some skill. For a start, it would be worth practicing in an inconspicuous place.

Installation of flexible metal profiles

The metal profile is equipped with special "legs" - support pads, between which there are cutouts for bending. These tabs must be wound under one of the materials - tiles or laminate. This is the complexity of the installation. The opinions of experts on this issue differ - some advise to layconnecting profile for tiles and laminateswith paws under the tile, others recommend that you first put the tile, then set the profile with the paws from the tile (under the laminate), and only then lay the laminate, pushing its ends into the profile groove. Both options are good in their own way, but they have their own weaknesses. Before installing the coatings, you should carefully consider which option will be most preferable, decide on the procedure for action, and only then proceed to work.

How is the installation of an aluminum nut

There are two types of aluminum sills:

• Open mounting.
• Concealed installation.

Installation of a nut open type simple - you need to lay it on the joint line, mark on the rough floor where the dowels will be installed (if it is not possible to screw the screws into the floor), drill the holes and fix the sill in place with the screws.

Concealed installation is more difficult: it is carried out either at the time of laying one of the coatings, mainly laminate, or after laying both materials in the existing gap.

To resolve the issue,how to close the joint between tile and laminate, a special aluminum profile with a cable channel can be used, covered with a rubber insert on top, or a one-piece profile installed close to the edge of the tile with the insertion of the ends of the laminate into the profile groove. The installation procedure depends on the type of material. Basically, the profile is attached to the subfloor with self-tapping screws.

There are sills designed to correct the height difference between the two materials. They are useful if tiles or laminate flooring differ significantly in thickness.

How to seal joints with sealant and foam

Treatment of the joint with a sealant or foam allows you to fill the gap with a liquid solidifying substance in a quality manner. The process is simple - the gap between the coatings is neatly filled with material from an assembly gun or your own balloon. A good option for such a solution to the problem will becomeliquid cork for laminate and tile joints, but more on that later.

The main danger when applying liquid mixtures is that the composition gets on the surface of the tile or laminate. In order to avoid this, you can paste over the edges of the materials with masking tape, and after the composition has hardened, carefully remove it.

Cork expansion joint between tiles and laminate- collective name for two types of material:

• a solid strip of cork installed in the gap between the coatings;
• liquid composition of cork chips and sealant.

The installation of these materials differs significantly from each other. The installation of the hard strip is carried out after the tile is glued, directly during the laying of the laminate.

The cork strip is pressed against the edge of the tile, and the laminate is laid close to it.

The most successful result will be with a straight line docking, since fitting curved lines, in this case, will be a rather difficult exercise. The option is quite simple and provides the required expansion gap, but the cork strip will require some maintenance and periodic cleaning.

The liquid composition is poured into the gap between the coatings and cured the right time for solidification.The height of the applied layer should not be higher than the tile or laminate, but if this happens, then the line is sanded or carefully trimmed with a sharp knife after hardening. Ideally, the composition layer should be flush with the surface of the coatings and not require any additional processing.

Joining tiles and laminate flooring requires the use of a special material, the choice of which is best done in advance. To obtain a high-quality seam, you should study the properties of the material, the method of application, the installation procedure, so that corrections and alterations are not required.

When renovating an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to the shrinkage of the house, subsidence or movement of the soil, cracks of various depths form between the floors. Create beautiful view interior with cracks in the ceiling will not work, therefore, the joints between the floor slabs will have to be filled. The procedure can be performed manually, but it has a number of peculiarities.

Tools and materials

Ceiling joints will require the preparation of tools and materials. They should be prepared before starting ceiling work with slabs.

Spatula with flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? This type of work requires:

• primer deep penetration, better . The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
• cement grade NTs, it is used to eliminate deep grooves. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill the holes during the solidification process;
• for wide gaps, a heat-insulating material is useful, the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
• putty with elastic material (latex);
• sealant;
• reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the crack width allows the metal base to be placed inside;
• starting and finishing putties.

When processing the ceiling, as well as the floor, walls, basic electrical appliances will be needed. The type of tool depends on the sealing technology, usually enough:

• various sizes of spatulas;
• metal brush;
• spray gun;
• construction knife;
• hammer drill, easy to replace with a hammer drill;
• sandpaper.

What tools will be useful to us

Before closing the joints of the slabs on the ceiling, you should take care of individual safety: goggles for eye protection, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove seams on the ceiling: the preparatory stage

Before sealing the joints on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the preparation stage of the coating. The surface should be solid and primed. It is better to remove any coatings with poor adhesion: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

It is better to seal the seams of floor slabs in clean room(after wet cleaning). To achieve better adhesion and normal salinity flow of the working solution, the room must be dry. Primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

It is important to wait until the previous one hardens before proceeding to the application of the next coat. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide, shallow joint

In the presence of shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm or more, it is better to use a filler, polyurethane foam.

Repairing a seam is a rather laborious work that must be done scrupulously, otherwise later bad job will be visible

How to seal the seam between the slabs on the ceiling with foam? For this:

1. Introduce into the recess assembly gun and fill the hole with foam.
2. Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
3. With a construction knife, all protruding parts are removed, it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
4. The recess is treated with an elastic filler. It is convenient to use the material with the help of 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. The mixture is stored on a wide tool, and putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
5. The seams on the ceiling are covered with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Working with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between slabs on the ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and relatively great depth, do not use foam.

Algorithm of work:

1. Filling the recess thermal insulation material... Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for the purpose.
2. Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum moisture resistance.
3. After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove is left with a depth of up to 5 mm.
4. After the cement has completely solidified, a latex type of putty is applied on top, it is used to level the plane of the slab.
5. With a spatula, remove the extra layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Instead of foam for filling deep cracks, you can use adhesive for ceramic tiles.

Working with a deep and narrow seam

It is better to close narrow but deep seams between floor slabs using the same method as in the previous case.

How to seal the joints in the ceiling between the slabs? The sequence of work is as follows:

1. A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation, it is placed inside the groove. The material should be pushed firmly into the recess.
2. After high-quality ramming with insulation, about 1 cm of depth should remain for adding NC cement. It is important to leave a groove of 5 mm.
3. On frozen cement mortar apply a latex putty, level it with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing between panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire complex of processing so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the ground moves, the base of the building, the floor seams will crack again, all the work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks can be an incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of the construction technology, which makes the building shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the house insulation and lay the water supply in advance to prevent destruction load-bearing walls and the foundation afterwards.

Latex putty. For sealing the seams, just such a putty is more suitable.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

1. Wait until the latex putty hardens, complete drying takes about 2 days.
2. Preparation for the reinforcement of the recess. A starting layer of putty is applied, it is laid with a slight protrusion over the edges by 4-5 cm.
3. A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material, a roller or narrow spatula will do.
4. A spatula is passed along the filler to remove excess.
5. After solidification of the material, the surface should be treated sandpaper with fine to medium grain.
6. Reapplication of the starting putty will help create the perfect plane, cleaning is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
7. A finishing putty is applied on top.
8. After hardening, they are re-processed with sandpaper.
9. The final stage is painting or pasting the ceiling.

Plastering

If, in parallel with the destroyed seams on the ceiling, there is a significant slope in either direction, it should be leveled. The best way is plastering compounds, their installation is preceded by the installation of the mesh. The entire working surface is covered with concrete contact soil, it contains solid, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a composition of cement with gypsum is prepared.

The seams on the ceiling are most often repaired simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling.

Close up the hole

As a result of ignoring building codes, a marriage may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. Ceiling joints between slabs are filled with one of two methods.

First way:

1. With a brush with an extended handle, the hole is cleaned from the inside.
2. It is important to remove loose dust by creating a strong adhesion; for this, the entire surface is thoroughly sprayed with a spray gun with the soil.
3. Polyurethane foam is blown inside.
4. After complete solidification, cut off areas with excess material using a sharp knife.
5. A cone-shaped depression is cut out with a height of 4-5 cm.
6. The recess is sealed with NTs grade cement and the material is waiting for solidification.
7. The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a serpyanka mesh is laid inside.
8. The subsequent operations do not differ from the sealing of the joints on the ceiling between the slabs.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

1. An impromptu frame is created, which will fit end-to-end into the hole, it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
2. The fixation of the frame is carried out with the help of a sealant, it is better to use it intended for the repair of plumbing and walls during wet rooms... If the purpose of the material is damp walls, the use of a ceiling repair will often lead to a better result.
3. After solidification in the cavity, a lattice is obtained, it will provide a strong fixation of the solution.
4. A mixture of NC solution is prepared, you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
5. Plywood is fastened from below with a support, it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
6. The wooden board is removed only after hardening, then the finishing is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly follow the sequence and be attentive.

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: methods of sealing

The presence of not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also the walls is characteristic. It will not be possible to qualitatively finish the surface without eliminating the cracks.

• construction foam;
• gypsum solution;
• synthetic type putty;
• putty for outdoor use.

The simplest and effective material- foam, which expands during solidification and fills the voids.

If the joints are rather large, further protection against cracking is worth taking care of. Reinforcing mesh will help prevent the appearance of cracks, alternative materials- cotton, linen fabrics that are soaked in adhesive solution... The fabrics are stacked over the hole. On the final stage a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface alignment

Regardless of the method for removing defects, it is important to create a quality topcoat. To level the surface, use abrasive mixtures.

Latex Putty Application Process

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use interlining. It is glued to the ceiling up to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps to eliminate minor irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with soil after the final leveling layer, this will help prevent deterioration of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste over or whitewash.

Building a building and creating an attractive appearance is complex task, which requires taking into account many factors:

• creating a solid foundation will prevent cracking at corners and between floor slabs. Before, it is important to carefully conduct preparatory work: study of the soil, study of the level of soil freezing, the creation of the correct marking and tamping of the surface. provides a service life of up to 150 years only if the laying technology is followed;
• to preserve heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of thermal energy through the floor. One of better ways - ;
• v multi-storey buildings it is better to study the floor slab plan in advance, this will help identify potential vulnerabilities in the structure and eliminate them during the repair phase;
• when building housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical characteristics and is absolutely safe for health;

• working with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So can concrete be poured in winter? - Yes, but you will need to add special mixtures to the composition or electric heating of concrete;
• if you plan to build a house from aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce every 2-3 rows. They lay the reinforcement inside the block recesses, which creates a chasing cutter for aerated concrete;

Holes of various sizes can be sealed if the technology is correctly followed. It is recommended to choose one of existing ways elimination of ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.

Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception, after the installation is complete it needs decorative finishing around the perimeter. In places where the ceiling meets the wall, a gap remains. For different suspended structures their preferred options are applied, how to close this gap and give the structure a complete look. Stretch ceiling is a universal system, as it can use a special skirting board and a traditional decorative profile for any ceiling.

Therefore, there are two options for how to arrange the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special skirting board (quick installation) or spend time and effort creating an exquisite finish.

Using stubs

A special skirting board for installation on a stretch ceiling is practical option... It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is distinguished by its simplicity and laconic finish. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.

Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the masters themselves offer to install such a plinth on the stretch ceiling.

If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in an ordinary apartment, then either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped one is used. The latter is also called the parietal corner.

V large rooms they also use a dividing profile with a dividing plug. This skirting board differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that overlap the canvas on both sides of the joint.

The L-shaped skirting board has one edge with hooks, which is inserted into the power profile of the strapping. It is made from soft grades of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to design a joint along a curved line.

The F-shaped skirting board is rigid and is installed on flat surfaces, mainly tile or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it keeps a straight line well, which is important for the overall impression of a neat framing.

It will take the owner a few minutes to install such a plinth. The corner is inserted into the profile with the fastening rib and pushed with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.

In addition to quick installation, this skirting board has a number of other advantages:

• Multiple dismantling without damaging the skirting board itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth can be easily removed from the groove and reinserted.
• The soft L-shaped skirting board will hide the joint in curved structures.
• Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
• A laconic design can be the most harmonious solution for a minimalist interior, where curly decorative details are not welcome.

An equally colorful assortment of decorative plugs is produced for a wide palette of fabric and film materials. This is not done out of an excess of imagination, but because it is advisable to select a plug of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that on a large span, the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how hard the master tries to align it. The plinth of the same tone will mark only the even edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.

It is important to choose the right plinth for the installed carrier molding. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes of the harpoon system, for others, the fastening ribs are designed for the baguette of the wedge mounting technology. There is a difference between caps for aluminum and plastic moldings. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on the installer. If you have to buy a masking tape yourself, then take a piece of the supporting profile with you in order to find a suitable skirting board in the store.

Video how the decorative plug is fixed:

The quality of the wall finish plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a stretch ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to refuse from the standard masking tape and use a wide baseboard made of polyurethane or foam.

Decorative baguettes

The decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom the stretched canvas does not mean the end of the work on the design of the ceiling space. In this case, the skirting board not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed right next to the ceiling, it is more often installed with an understatement. The stretch ceiling looks much more spectacular with illumination, and lamps are mounted in this niche.

Of all the variety of shapes, a smooth extruded skirting board will be a win-win. A smooth baguette blends harmoniously with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Imitation skirting board decorative stucco requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.

Under tension cloth use any polyurethane or polystyrene moldings, but with some installation features. Since the skirting board cannot be glued to the film or fabric, it is attached with only one side to a vertical surface. Hence, some of the nuances regarding the selection and installation of decorative moldings:

• If the perimeter of the room is even, then it is better to use a lightweight foam baseboard. It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or ordinary finishing putty.
• For structures with curved lines, polyurethane is taken, since it bends well. But this stuff is heavy, so Special attention pay to the preparation of the surface of the base and the right choice glue for mounting.
• To hold the baguette firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated section and a wide mounting shelf.
• The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming them with a wide spatula.
• When mounted close to the film, a small gap is still left so that the canvas does not slam on the plinth during vibration.

The disadvantages associated with the complexity of the installation are obvious:

• Even in a rectangular room with a flat perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone succeeds in doing this neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use a miter box for this.

• You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joint in the corners and the cracks are closed.
• The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is easy to perform, then when finishing painting the glued baguette, you need to try not to stain the canvas.

Important! Removing the skirting board and not damaging it will not work. If it is necessary to dismantle the canvas, the baguette is torn off and after installing the film in place, a new one is bought.

If you wish, you can install plaster stucco molding. In this case, we are talking about creating a whole composition of cornice type using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, columns. Such decorations are used to decorate complex multilevel structures, with a combined finish.

Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms with wood trim, where other materials are inappropriate.

Decorative braid

Recently appeared new way decoration of the ceiling contour with a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the joint between the vertical and horizontal plane, it will clearly separate the canvas and vertical surface, but it will also become a bright detail that requires a special style in the rest of the interior.

According to the texture, the braid can be braided and twisted. It is installed in the same way as a plastic skirting board: it is pressed into the profile groove. But at the same time, it is necessary to control the straightness of the edging, therefore, a long rule is used on straight sections, and on curved sections they rely on an eye and patience.

On sale there are the following types of decorative cord for installation in a stretch ceiling:

• Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, with an uneven indentation, the cord tends to straighten, thereby helping the master to get a straight edging.
• With metal amplifier. Allows you to get a smooth bend on curved lines.
• Cord with one-color braiding or with multi-colored threads.

As a rule, at the same time, there are always garlands in the interior, picturesque ornaments inherent in the classic, empire, and baroque styles.