Functionality and specifications drywall make this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by modern construction market... GCR is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only aligns ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level plasterboard suspended ceiling will look spectacular if supplemented with original lighting.

Most of the tools used in the installation can replace each other. Therefore, when making a list, you should focus on those that you have at home. To install a false ceiling you will need:

• pencil, building or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
• punch or impact drill for making holes for dowels and screws;
• screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
• a hacksaw for metal and a construction knife.

• profile;
• drywall;
• fasteners;
• self-tapping screws for metal, dowels 6 mm.

To complete the finishing of drywall, you need:

• serpyanka mesh;
• sealing tape;
• primer;
• putty;
• roller or brush;
• spatula (large and medium);
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• acrylic or water-based paint.

For installation suspension system two types of profiles are used:

• guides. Installed along the walls along a horizontal line outlining the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
• ceiling. They are made in the shape of the letter "C" and represent metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of the suspended ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install suspended plasterboard ceilings in the bathroom, purchase a material labeled moisture resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material during the entire service life not to lose its original qualities, despite high level humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface from the living room or bedroom, you can buy an ordinary gypsum board gray with a sheet thickness of 8-10 mm. Take sheets of greater thickness for self-assembly the design is meaningless. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with it.

Fasteners - the parts that will hold the suspended ceiling.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements, you will need:

• direct suspensions. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
• crabs are used to join parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
• extension cords are used to build up a profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as elements for fastening suspensions.To connect two pieces of a profile, as well as fix the frame to concrete slab galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are attached to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before starting the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with our own hands, we mark the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the lower corner in the room, we retreat down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the rough ceiling surface to the suspended structure should be at least 5 cm.You need to choose your distance, taking into account the communications under the ceiling intended for the installation of lamps, which can be increased up to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydro level in your work, in large rooms it is better to use a laser level for more accurate line marking. After you find the points in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using an upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. Elements should be located from each other at a distance of multiples of the width of the gypsum board. For example, drywall sheets are produced standard width 120 cm. Therefore, it is best to fasten the profiles at 60 cm intervals.

The distance between the hangers on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. Through such gaps, marks are placed on the lines that were drawn to fix the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted with a step of 60 cm.Thus, the result is a cellular frame with rectangles of the correct shape and a side length of 50x60 cm.

Installation of the frame of the suspended structure - step by step instructions

In the photo, the frame of the suspended structure from the profile

GKL suspended ceiling frame is mounted as follows:

• on the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for the dowels. Using dowels, we fix the UD profile to the wall;
• we install suspensions that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base using two dowel nails;
• before proceeding to the installation of the ceiling CD-profile, we check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the base of the suspended ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with suspensions;
• longitudinal profiles first we fix it in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we consistently fix the strips in the suspensions;
• We fix the transverse elements of the frame with a step of 60 cm. At the ends they will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors ("crabs").

Important! Longitudinal, transverse ceiling profiles and GKL sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. A small gap left during the installation of the structure will play the role ventilation system allowing free air circulation between the ceiling base and the grid.

How to properly lengthen the profile

Often, suspended gypsum plasterboard ceilings have to be mounted in large rooms, which leads to situations when the length of the CD profile is not enough, so it has to be increased. The easiest way, which is used by most professional builders- profile extension using special single-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• insert the connector into the profile;
• from the other end of the connector, insert the end of the other profile strip;
• we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, bend the edges of the profile with pliers;
• now we strengthen the connection with self-tapping screws for metal. To do this, screw in the screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which lengthening is carried out ceiling profile... For example:

• elongation using a notch. This is an expensive tool used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
• rack profiles in drywall construction sometimes connected with self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases, when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding with the final stage of installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the gypsum board sheets need to be given time to adapt to climatic conditions premises. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When sheathing the ceiling, proceed as follows:

• cut the chamfer from the ends of the gypsum board with a knife at an angle of 45 ° by 5 mm;
• start attaching the first sheet from any corner in the room to self-tapping screws every 15 cm along the edges and 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the gypsum board;
• in the places where two adjacent sheets join, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the gypsum board and the wall;
• pay attention to the fact that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. The deepening will subsequently be repaired with a putty;
• Proceeding in the same way, sheathe the entire frame with drywall. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

• UD profile. The standard length of the elements is 3-4 meters. For determining the right amount slats, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a larger value;
• CD profile. In this case, the standard size of the GKL sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best way- installation in width. With this method, much less waste of material will turn out.

On one sheet of gypsum board you will need three profiles, which must be positioned with a step of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing the plasterboard suspended ceiling is long and the profile needs to be extended, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

• suspensions. The first element is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - with a step of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile with a length of 3 meters, you need to purchase five suspensions;
• transverse jumpers are usually made from CD-profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
• single-level crab connectors are also attached every 50 cm between the hangers. Thus, one 2.5 m long profile will need five crabs.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements required to install the suspended ceiling.

The profiles are fixed to the suspensions with self-tapping screws for metal (also 2 pcs per one suspension). To install one crab, you will need 8 self-tapping screws.

To calculate the number of drywall sheets, you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling surface, dividing it by the same indicator for one sheet.

Making a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands is only a small part finishing works... It is necessary to seal the seams and gaps on the new structure so that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junction of the elements that ugly gaps are formed, which can disperse over time. To avoid such a nuisance, you need to carry out high-quality work to strengthen them:

• clean the joints from dust with a dry sponge or paint brush;
• apply a coat of primer to all joints deep penetration, capturing a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Especially carefully process the ends of the sheets;
• after the primer has dried, glue the serpyanka tape at the joints;
• prepare a special mortar for Knauf seams. Gently apply the mass to the joints and press in with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the serpyanka mesh is closed);
• seal the grooves from the self-tapping screws with a small amount of the composition;
• after it dries, using fine-grained sandpaper, wipe off all the putty areas, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
• if you are going to paint your structure, you need to carry out finishing putty ceiling with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to staining.

As you can see, it is not at all difficult to install a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the sequence of stages, calculate and select materials correctly. Then the self-assembled structure will delight its appearance over time.

Video potem

One of the most difficult jobs in home renovation, according to the admission of both masters and amateurs, is to bring the ceiling to its proper form. Unevenness of slabs, inconsistency of angles, different levels of ceiling, etc. It is sometimes very difficult to eliminate all these defects. And not only difficult, but also expensive, for example, using stretch ceiling technology.

In this article, we will look at the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings. Its advantages are obvious: low cost of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, ease of installation and relatively low time consumption for its arrangement. At the same time, the technology is quite simple, and you can install it yourself. Let's see how?

Tools and materials

Having made the decision to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need to make preparatory work, namely: stock up on the necessary tools and purchase all the necessary building materials. Let's look at it in order.

To install a plasterboard suspended ceiling, we need the following tool:

• a water level, we need it to accurately mark the installation site of the guide profile (due to its low cost, our choice fell on it, if the financial capabilities allow us to acquire a household laser level as well, its price is on average $ 50);
• a two-meter level to determine the evenness of the installation of drywall sheets;
• perforator - for drilling holes for profile fixing dowels;
• drill or screwdriver - fastening the profile and gypsum board;
• a five-meter tape measure, a utility knife with a set of blades, a pencil for marking;
• "Grinder" with a circle for metal or hand saw, good scissors for metal.

Having assembled the necessary tool, let's consider what building materials we need to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling structure:

• Profile. It is of two types: a guide (fixed along the perimeter of the square, its function is reflected in the name itself) and ceiling (C-shaped). The firm and the form do not really matter, it is only necessary that both profiles are from the same manufacturer. How much is needed? The guide profile is calculated around the perimeter of the room. For example, the total area is 20 m2, the length of the walls is 5 and 4 meters, respectively. The length of the profile is 3 and 4 m, respectively, a three-meter one, we need 7 pieces + 1 stock, just in case if you spoil it. For this example, we can take a 4-meter one, we need 5 pieces of it, i.e. the perimeter is divided by the length of the profile. If the ceiling is two-level or will have an intricate design, then add the length of the additional structure to the above figures. The calculation of the C - shaped profile is carried out as follows, since the drywall sheet is 1250 mm wide, ideally it is fastened with a step of 600 mm. Thus, for our example, it is better to take a 4 meter high (there will be less waste), we divide the five meter wall by 60 cm and we get 8 ceiling profiles. We have given the principle of calculation, for each room and complex structure of the suspended ceiling it is identical, it is only important to add an additional length of the structure.

​

• Drywall. There are three types: regular, moisture resistant and fireproof. V an ordinary apartment if this is not a bathroom, an ordinary sheet will do, it makes no sense to overpay. For the installation of the ceiling, there is also no need to take drywall higher than 8 - 10 mm thickness. The weight of the structure will increase, but there is no practical benefit for the ceiling. Yes, and during installation, this increases the complexity of the work, since the weight of the sheets increases. The calculation of the amount of drywall can be made according to the following formula: we divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​one gypsum board and we get the amount we need. The area of ​​a standard sheet is, if rounded, 3m2. If we divide the area of ​​the room from our example by 3, then we get 6.6 sheets, i.e. 7. We recommend that you take a small stock just in case, one sheet of stock will be enough.

• Fastening. We will need a straight suspension, it is not expensive, so you can not calculate the exact number of pieces, for an area of ​​20 m2 with a simple one-level design, we will need about 40-50 pieces. thick, you need large quantity suspension. Depending on the design, you will have to calculate the number yourself, taking into account the distance between them in 600 - 700 mm. If your design does not provide big number ceiling profile connections - you can do without "crabs", such connections can be mounted using straight hangers. If this idea is not to your liking, you can purchase longitudinal connectors in an amount equal to the intended profile connections. You will need dowels for attaching the guide profile and suspension, usually 8x10 dowels are enough. You will also need a pack of self-tapping screws to connect the profile. In addition, stock up on self-tapping screws 25 mm long for attaching drywall sheets to the profile.

When everything is assembled, you can proceed with the installation of the frame.

Frame installation

We use a water level to mark the installation site of the guide profile. Having achieved one level of water in containers on opposite walls, we apply marks. It is up to you how much to retreat from the ceiling, but for the convenience of installation of the entire structure, especially when laying thermal insulation wool and / or spotlights, retreat at least 10 cm. Having made the markings on all four walls, proceed to drilling the holes for the dowels with a puncher. We fix the guide profile to the wall with an interval of 30 - 40 cm, in the corners at a distance of 10 - 15 cm.

After installing the guide profile along the perimeter, using a tape measure, we make marks on the wall at intervals of 60 cm. Thus, we mark the installation locations of the ceiling profile. For a simple one-level design, we do not need the installation of C-shaped profiles in two directions, i.e. markup is carried out on two opposite walls.

After that, we proceed to fixing the suspension to the surface of the ceiling slab. For convenience, focus on the distance between them in 60 - 70 cm, for example, it will be easier to lay thermal insulation wool... But if there is a difference of a couple of centimeters, the tragedy will not happen.

After installing all direct hangers, we begin to install the ceiling profile itself.

In our example, this is very simple, since the length of the wall is 4m and the length of the profile is 4m, we do not have to join it. If this is not suitable for your option, then at the joints of the profile, install two additional suspensions to the ceiling, and using the suspension itself or the longitudinal connector, as you like, we twist together with screws. Using a drill or screwdriver, we connect all the joints of the ceiling profile with the guide, as well as suspensions with a C-shaped profile.

One important nuance when twisting the suspension with ceiling profiles: using a 2 meter level, make sure that the profile is fixed evenly, without bending or sagging. If you do not follow this, then after installing the gypsum board, you can find out that the newly arranged surface of the ceiling has a wavy nature.

After connecting all the metal elements of the frame, make sure with a level that the surface of the profile is even, put the level in different directions along the ceiling profile. If there are deviations - correct.

So, the frame of the plasterboard suspended ceiling is ready, then we carry out the wiring to the places of the lamp / s and, if desired, lay the thermal insulation wool. After that, our structure is ready to accept drywall sheets.

Plasterboard sheathing and putty

We proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. There is nothing complicated in the fastening itself, we lift the sheet to the profile and fasten it with self-tapping screws. An interval of 10-15 cm between the screws will be sufficient. We "sew up" along the perimeter and in the center, and our center is a notch on the wall. When joining drywall sheets, it is necessary to monitor the ends at the joints. The sheets themselves, as you can see, have rounded ends, this is done so that there are no cracks in the putty at the joints, the layer will be thicker there. So, when joining whole sheets or pieces, you must also create a small depression along the edges with a knife, where it is not.

You should also pay attention to the screw heads, they should be "recessed" in the gypsum board by about 1 mm. If protruding - gently squeeze, this will greatly facilitate the putty of the ceiling at the end of the work.

In the places where lamps or any other communications are installed, we cut out all the necessary holes using a knife. For these works, you can purchase and special attachment for a hammer drill or drill, whatever you like.

If the drywall sheets are fitted tightly to one another, the joints are "cut" and all the necessary holes are cut, you can proceed to puttying the surface. For this, in addition to gypsum plaster You will need a special adhesive mesh for processing gypsum board joints. If everything is available, proceed to the putty. And we start with the joints. Let them dry out a little and you can putty the entire surface of the ceiling with finishing plaster.

Let it dry for a day or two, take sandpaper 100/120, a lamp for illumination from the side of irregularities and make a flat and smooth surface. After that, your ceiling is ready for any kind of decoration.

We examined the installation of a simple single-level type of suspended plasterboard ceiling. And if you have not done the installation of such a ceiling with your own hands, we strongly recommend starting with a simple one. When the experience of such work comes and you know the nuances of such a design, then you can already assemble the next ceiling and a two-level one. And not only that, you will be able to model and think over the design yourself, since you will understand the main part of the device of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Below are the drawings of plasterboard suspended ceilings, possible options

Possible decoration methods

It's actually very difficult to describe how to decorate. The first is that there are no comrades in taste and color, as they say. And secondly, the modern construction industry produces such great amount all kinds of decorative, and not only, materials that the volume of the article simply will not allow considering them. Everything here will depend on your tastes, desires and your own financial capabilities. Someone like the decoration of the surface with the help of plaster molding, for someone it is enough to use foam baguettes in the decor. Someone will apply a picture to the ceiling, while others will simply glue the wallpaper and replace the chandelier.

In fact, do not pay attention to all sorts of "fashion" trends and other nonsense. You live in this room, so think about what kind of ceiling will bring you comfort and joy. After you understand what you want and you can afford it, go to the nearest hypermarket building materials and take what will make your idea come true, do that for yourself.

There is nothing very complicated in the technology of plasterboard suspended ceilings, it is only important to remember the popular wisdom: "Measure seven times and cut once." And you will succeed, believe me.

Installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling video

The easiest way to level the ceiling surface is to make a plasterboard binder. Moreover, it is not necessary to build a complex multi-level system; it is enough to make a single-level coating of gypsum plasterboards over a metal frame. If you follow the instructions exactly, a one-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands can be made in a couple of days. It is important to select and calculate the amount of material correctly, and upon completion of the installation, prepare the surface for processing with the selected finishing material. The article will describe: installation technology, prices for work carried out by professional craftsmen.

If you decide to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, then first decide on the type of gypsum board and calculate the required amount of material.

Depending on the purpose and characteristics of the processes taking place in it, one of the following types of gypsum boards is used:

• moisture resistant products have a characteristic greenish surface and are suitable for installation in humid room bathroom, kitchen, toilet or pool;
• fire-resistant gypsum board is used in places with increased requirements for fire safety(on stairwells, escape routes, in the corridors of public institutions, etc.);
• standard slabs have a gray surface and are suitable for installation in residential premises with normal humidity, for example, in the bedroom, living room, study, children's room, hallway or corridor;
• also happens wall and ceiling drywall, the latter has less thickness and weight, so it is more suitable for ceiling mounting;
• arched gypsum plasterboard is the thinnest, it is used for the manufacture of curved surfaces (when installing single-level coatings, it is not used).

Important! To count the required amount gypsum boards need to know the area of ​​the ceiling. We divide the resulting value by the area of ​​one plasterboard sheet and round it up to the whole product.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the necessary materials:

• gypsum boards;
• metal profiles for assembling the frame;
• primer;
• putty;
• screws and dowels;
• necessary components (suspensions, connectors);
• serpyanka;
• dowel-nails for mounting perforated hangers;
• self-tapping screws for metal work;
• finishing material (wallpaper, paint, etc.).

From the tools you will need the following:

• puncher;
• drill;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• spatulas;
• rollers and brushes;
• pallet for primer;
• painting float;
• construction and laser level;
• chopping cord;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• ladder;
• ruler;
• scissors for metal.

Selection of profiles for the ceiling

If you are going to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then it is important to choose the right profiles for assembling the supporting frame:

1. To assemble the guide rails on the walls, you will need PN profiles with a section of 27x28 mm and a length of up to 4 m.
2. The main frame is assembled from PP ceiling profiles with a section of 60x27 mm and a length of 300-400 cm.
3. In addition to the profile elements, you will need straight perforated hangers, as well as single-level crab connectors.

Surface preparation before installing the gypsum board

If you decide to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then the step-by-step instructions from our article will help you. Since the surface of the suspended ceiling completely hides any defects and unevenness of the base, it does not need special preparation.

If there is an old coating that does not adhere well to the base, then it is better to dismantle it. Places with mold are cleaned up to the base ceiling and treated with an antiseptic composition so that the fungus does not appear again in the future.

On preparatory stage laying engineering communications - ventilation ducts and wiring to the places where the fixtures are installed. In addition, the marking of the installation sites of the frame elements is applied.

To do this, do the following:

• Find the lowest angle in the room using a laser measuring device.
• From this angle, a value equal to the height of the lowering of the new ceiling surface is laid down. The distance can be calculated if we take into account the thickness of the frame, the communications to be laid and the height of the recessed luminaires.
• With help laser level the resulting mark is transferred to the remaining corners of the room.
• We connect all points in the corners with longitudinal lines on the walls using a chopping cord.
• On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations of the PP profiles. Usually they are mounted with a step of 40 cm. We put dots along these lines with a step of 60 cm. These will be the places where the suspensions will be installed.

Installation of guides

First you need to assemble a structure from guide rails on the walls of the room. To do this, we drill holes in the PN profile with a step of 50 cm. We make the extreme holes at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the end of the profile. Then we apply the product to the markings on the wall surface and mark the holes.

We drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill. Then we hammer dowels into the holes and fasten the profile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, we mount the guide profiles along all the walls in the room.

Important! After assembling the frame from the guides, the perforated hangers are installed on the ceiling according to the previously applied markings. Each part is attached to two dowel nails.

Installation of the ceiling profile

We cut the longitudinal ceiling profiles to the width of the room. We put the ends of one rail into the groove of the guides on the wall. In the central part, we attach the rail to the base ceiling surface using perforated hangers. Screw the self-tapping screws into side shelves, and bend the excess part of the suspension ears up so that they do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

We mount the next profile in the same way at a distance of 40 cm from the previous product. Thus, each gypsum sheet will be attached to 4 profiles, which increases the reliability of the entire structure.

In a small area, the transverse short ceiling profiles can be omitted. In a large room, they are cut to length and installed in increments of 60 cm between the longitudinal slats. To fasten these parts to the frame, single-level connectors are used. Short slats are not attached to perforated hangers.

Installation of thermal insulation

If the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out with additional insulation premises, then the installation of thermal insulation materials is performed at this stage. Usually soft insulators such as mineral wool are used. Insulation plates are cut according to the width of the step with which the longitudinal elements of the frame are installed, plus 1-2 cm for tight joining.

The material is laid between the slats so that it is held in place. The ends of the insulation plates are placed as close as possible to each other so that there are no gaps. For protection mineral wool from moisture absorption to the bottom of the frame is hemmed vapor barrier membrane... The material is laid in strips with an overlap of 15 cm and attached to double-sided tape.

Important! TO wooden crate the vapor barrier can be fixed with a stapler.

Installation of gypsum board

Installation of drywall begins from one of the corners of the room. The slab is laid along the longitudinal profiles of the frame. Moreover, each sheet must be attached to four PP-rails. The product is screwed in with self-tapping screws, which are mounted with a step of 25 cm.The extreme fasteners are placed from the edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 2.5 cm.

Similarly, mount the next sheet, which is stacked close to the previous one. The longitudinal joint of the slabs must be in the middle of the ceiling profile. The outermost sheets in a row are cut in width.

Final surface treatment

Plasterboard ceiling decoration needs finishing decorative coating... Various finishing options are possible - painting with interior paint, whitewashing, wallpapering or foil.

Anyway the surface plasterboard ceiling you need to prepare:

1. All seams between the slabs must be putty using a serpyanka. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the seam, the serpyanka is pressed in and covered with a second layer of putty. The surface is well leveled.
2. Places of installation of self-tapping screws are putty.
3. After the putty mixture has dried, the treated areas are sanded with a fine grain sandpaper.
4. The surface is dedusted and treated with a primer. After the first layer of the primer mixture has dried, the second is applied. This preparation is sufficient for wallpapering the ceiling.
5. If painting is performed, then the entire surface is putty with a finishing compound, and after it dries, it is sanded. Then the ceiling is once again treated with deep penetration soil. The surface is now ready for painting.

If the ceiling surface is relatively flat, and you do not plan to install built-in lamps and lay utility lines in the ceiling space, then the installation of the gypsum board on the ceiling can be performed using frameless technology. In this case, you do not need to assemble the lathing from metal profiles or wooden bars, because gypsum boards are simply glued to the ceiling with special glue. This installation method allows you to significantly save and speed up work.

Now you know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It is much more profitable to install the gypsum board yourself, since the price per m2 of professional installation of drywall on the ceiling is $ 10. Considering how much the materials cost and finishing, then the total cost can go up to $ 20 per square. That is why it is better to carry out the installation yourself, and the instructions from our article will help you do everything right.

Most builders point out that during the renovation of an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling from plaster or any other material.

The unevenness of various slab floors, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details interfere with the fast performance of work. It is quite difficult to hide all these shortcomings today. And rather not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to affordable prices.

What tools do you need?

If you are thinking about how to make a drywall ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quick installation of the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.

To install yourself two-level ceiling from drywall you will need:

• Water-type level in order to carry out accurate marking of the place where the guide level will be installed.

• For fast drilling of various holes with any hammer drill.
• Scissors with which you can cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Screw gun for fixing the gypsum board, as well as the profile.
• Roll

Installing the frame

The first thing to do is to choose a place for the future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. The marks should be applied after all the containers are at the same level.

How much to deviate from the building ceiling in centimeters is up to you, however, most builders suggest looking at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling in order to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After the completion of the first stage, that is, after the markings are carried out on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for the dowels. For this, a puncher is used.

After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure right around the perimeter, it is necessary to make marks with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to do enough simple design, consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to carry out the marking exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can proceed to fixing the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct hangers, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of the most different ways decorating the ceiling. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry, many different types of products can be found in stores. decorative materials that will decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers plaster molding, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of trends in fashion, since they pass quickly, but you definitely have to live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you exceptional joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of coziness in the room.

After you decide what the ideal ceiling looks like for you after renovation, it is important to assess whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the building materials store and choose what will allow quickly turn your dreams of a perfect ceiling into reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using plasterboard.

You just need to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even five years.

Note!

Photo of a plasterboard ceiling

Note!

Thinking about how to design a drywall ceiling with your own hands? For knowledgeable person it is not difficult to implement such an idea, and for a beginner it is a completely solvable task. This is a great way to save money and learn an important skill if this is your first time doing this. Having mastered the ceiling, it will no longer be difficult for you to make slopes, piers, sheathe the walls with this material. Drywall is very popular, almost no repair is complete without its use. There are a number of reasons for this.

1. Drywall, a sheet of which consists of gypsum, lined with cardboard, is absolutely environmentally friendly. It does not emit toxins and is non-allergic. Therefore, ceilings from it are made in bedrooms, nurseries and any other living quarters.
2. Its surface is smooth, even and free of cracks. Perfect for both painting and wallpapering.
3. Good sound absorption, thermal insulation properties.
4. Possibility of creating original design ceiling, for example a structure multi-level construction using stucco molding.
5. Plasticity (sheets are allowed to be bent, moistening before this, and then, drying warm air, use for finishing curved surfaces).
6. Helps to hide communications (ventilation ducts, water pipes, various cables), use built-in types of lamps.

So, having appreciated all the advantages, you decided to equip a suspended ceiling using this finishing material... The next step is to choose a specific variety.

Varieties of drywall, their properties

• GKL - gypsum plasterboard lined on both sides with soft cardboard glued to the gypsum surface. The standard length of such sheets can be 2000, 2500, 2600, 2750, and 3000 mm, and the width is 1200 mm. They are 12.5 and 9.5 mm thick. For living quarters, it is better to use 9.5 to lighten the weight of the structure. Finished with gray cardboard.
• GKLO - fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard. It is usually not used in apartments, but only in industries, for finishing air ducts, communication mines.
• GKLV - waterproof gypsum plasterboard. Used in bathrooms and kitchens, lavatories, but only if available exhaust ventilation and protection of the front surface with waterproofing compounds, ceramic tiles, waterproof paints, primers or ceramic tiles. Finished with green cardboard.
• GKLVO - moisture resistant gypsum plasterboard with increased fire resistance. Combines the properties of all of the above.
• GVL - gypsum fiber sheets... They are not pasted over with cardboard. Gypsum is reinforced with special fluff pulp waste paper. Such sheets have increased hardness and flame resistance. They correspond standard sizes ordinary sheet, but their thickness is greater - 6 or 10 mm.
• GVLV - moisture resistant gypsum fiber sheets.

Installation and installation of a false ceiling

This is a construction of 4 main elements:

1. Sheets of drywall.

Moisture resistant drywall sheets

2. Ceiling guide profiles UD (28-27 mm) and ceiling profiles for the main CD (60x27 mm). Guides - attached to the wall just below the ceiling level along the entire perimeter of the room. The main bearing profiles (longitudinal) are already inserted into them. The main secondary (transverse) profiles are located between them. Plasterboard sheets are attached to these profiles (both longitudinal and transverse). They can be recognized by their C-shaped folded edges, longitudinal corrugations and stiffening ribs.

Connection of the main ceiling profile and the wall guide

3. Straight hangers (universal) and with a clamp. Most often, they use direct universal U-shaped suspensions, which are attached to the main ceiling, and the main profiles are already attached to them. The hangers have frequent holes in the sides. This allows you to screw the profile to them at different heights, adjusting it.

The location of the suspensions on the base ceiling

4. Connecting elements: anchors and dowels, with which hangers are attached to the ceiling, crab fasteners - fasten the main longitudinal with the main transverse profiles, dowels that attach the guide profiles to the wall.

Usually frames, consisting of profiles on suspensions, are divided into two types: single-level and multi-level.

Plasterboard ceilings, respectively, too.

To install a plasterboard ceiling, you will need the following tools:

1. Level (better than water)
2. Roulette
3. A drill with a perforator with various attachments: for mixing the solution, for drilling (drill), for cutting the necessary holes for the lamps)
4. Screwdriver
5. Simple triangle or square (to measure right angles)
6. Painting cord or pencil
7. Construction hacksaw
8. Fishing line
9. Plane
10. Ceiling point luminaire

For the final stage of leveling the ceiling you will need:

1. Sandpaper
2. Putty knife
3. Putty
4. Construction knife
5. Container for putty
6. Reinforcing tape

How to make a plasterboard ceiling: step by step instructions

After all the materials, tools and components are prepared, you can proceed with the installation.

1. First, we determine how much the new suspended ceiling will be lower than the base one. At least 10 cm will have to be sacrificed, because a standard built-in lamp will take 9 cm in height.

2. We make markings on the walls around the entire perimeter for attaching the guide profiles. For these purposes, we will measure the height of the room in all corners. Having chosen the lowest angle, we mark the required distance from the floor (namely from the floor, but not from the ceiling), mark the horizontal along the entire wall using a water level. The lines can be beaten off with a paint cord at the points marked by the level.

3. Along the wall lines we drill holes for dowels in the wall with a step of 30-40 ms, then fasten the guide profiles.

4. Now on the ceiling we attach suspensions with a step of 60-70 cm, having previously outlined parallel straight lines, i.e. by making a markup that serves as a reference point.

5. Insert the main profiles into the guides.

Plasterboard ceiling frame: the main profiles are inserted into the guides and connected to the hangers

6. We attach the main profiles to the suspensions, then bend them. For evenness, it is advisable to pull the line or cord.

7. Attach the main secondary profiles to the main profiles. They are fixed in places where it is planned to join the sheets of drywall. It turns out a kind of metal lattice, which is a single-level frame.

8. Laying wires for future wiring. Do not forget to cut the grooves through which the cable will run. The grooves should be located in the wall from the switch to the ceiling. After routing the cable, wire in the ceiling, release the loose ends for the lamps in the pre-provided places.

9. The next step is to attach the drywall to the frame.

Fastening the material to the frame

After metal carcass built, it is necessary to attach plasterboard sheets to it. This is a difficult procedure, the implementation of which is divided into several stages:

Fastening a drywall sheet to a metal frame: control of contours with a spirit level

1. Cutting with a hacksaw - special, with fine teeth(or an ordinary clerical knife). It is best to cut sheets 120x250 or 120x125 cm. The main thing is that the ends of the sheet exactly fall on the supporting frame laths. The sheets should lie on a flat surface (preferably on a table) horizontally. Further along the level, slide a knife with front side... Then slide the sheet off the table and break it. Then turn over and cut the cardboard on the other side.

2. The edge formed after the cut is processed with a plane. It should turn out smooth, without kinks. All protruding edges are trimmed with a sharp knife.

3. Cut holes for recessed lights and ceiling sockets. They should be carefully measured, having determined the exact location on the sheet, then marked out, and then cut with a drill with the right attachment or a hacksaw. If pipes will pass through the drywall, then the diameter of the hole must be made> 10 times the diameter of the pipe.

4. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard. Plasterboard boards it is allowed to attach to the frames in two ways: longitudinal and transverse. With transverse fastening, they are located perpendicular to the main load-bearing metal profiles... In the longitudinal direction - in parallel with the main bearing profiles. If there are additional laths, then the fastening of the sheets must be carried out from their corner in two perpendicular directions. If there are no additional laths, then fastening is carried out from the end of the sheet or from its center. Self-tapping screws are installed 10-15 mm from the sheet edge. The screws are installed from the front surface of the sheet perpendicularly and to such a depth that their heads cannot pierce the cardboard and do not protrude above face... They must also fit into the metal frame> 10 mm deep. The length of the screws is selected based on the total thickness of the planned plasterboard cladding... The maximum allowable distance from one self-tapping screw to another is 150 mm. This value can be doubled if it is faced with slabs many times. The screws must be installed in the guide profile closer to its rear wall, then the screw will not be able to bend the profile shelf inward. The cardboard should not be tousled where the screws will be attached. If the screws are deformed or were placed by mistake, then they are removed, and new ones are not installed at the distance.< 50 мм от неудачного места крепления.

Important! The joints of the sheets must necessarily be located on the profile!

Plasterboard boards do not need to be made close to the walls. It is better not to putty the gap, but to cover it with a ceiling corner. Then, in the event of expansion of the slabs, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the ceiling. When directly attaching the slabs to the ceiling, you need to work together, or use supports.

Plates should be placed horizontally, adjusted to each other and screwed to the frame.

Important! Before installing, drywall must not< 2-х суток вылежаться в помещении, в котором он будет монтирован. Тогда он приобретет влажность и температуру помещения.

5. Puttying joints. Do not putty immediately. Wait 2 days. Then inspect the joints for defects and fix them. Clean the surface from particles and dust. It is better to use a reinforcing tape, laying it in all joints. It prevents cracking. If you use an expensive, high-quality putty, then it is enough for it to process only the joints (and then paint it on glass canvas from a spray gun), if it's cheap, then you should putty the entire ceiling, and then paint it with a roller. Sequencing:

- clean the edges of the seam, moisten them, fill the seams with putty, pressing it with a spatula;
- after applying the main layer of putty, lay the reinforcing tape, pressing it with a spatula. Do not leave air bubbles. Cover the surface of the tape with a thin layer of putty and wait for it to dry completely;
- grind the joints sandpaper;
- Apply a layer of putty to the previously dried layer;
- apply one more leveling layer of putty and let dry;
- remove irregularities with sandpaper.

Second level ceiling device

Installation of the second level of plasterboard ceiling: the construction of a curly frame

1. Plan in advance, make a drawing of the picture, outline it on the ceiling.
2. Beat off the height of the second from the first level of the ceiling.
3. We fix the guide profile.
4. We install the main guides of the second level to the main guides, the stiffeners of the first.
5. Bend the profile for the required radius sections.
6. We part wires for lamps.
7. We cut the slab the desired shape and fix it as on the first level.
8. We cut out a strip of drywall and close the box.
9. We install lamps.
10. Plastering.

If you strictly follow the above instructions, then there will be no questions about how to fix drywall to the ceiling. You can do everything thoughtfully and accurately. It is enough to show patience, make an effort and you can get an excellent DIY ceiling structure.