When the main work on the construction of the stairs in the house is already behind, the developer faces another question - how to properly and beautifully finish the steps of the staircase with his own hands? And then such a lightweight, durable and safe material like laminate comes to the rescue.

This article, supplemented with colorful photos and a useful video, will tell you about the features of such a coating, as well as how to independently make laminate sheathing of stair steps in a house.

Laminate is a versatile coating that has a lot of advantages, including strength, water resistance, durability, great appearance

Laminate: features and advantages of the material

Laminate is a modern wood-fiber material that is highly resistant to physical and mechanical stress. Its main feature is that in appearance it is very similar natural wood.

Laminated steps look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is convenient and comfortable to walk on them

Do-it-yourself laminate cladding is quite within the power of even a beginner, since this finish is easy to install and very versatile.

The advantages of laminate flooring include:

• high resistance to various kinds of influences;
• economical cost;
• ease of installation;
• practicality and versatility;
• water resistance;
• environmental Safety;
• long service life (up to 6 years or more).

The environmental properties of the laminate make it versatile material for use in private country houses and dachas

What laminate for stairs to choose

The choice of laminate for finishing stair steps with your own hands has its own characteristics:

If the coating will be used in rooms with high traffic, then when choosing a laminate, give preference to the material of the 33rd class.

Inventory required for cladding

For a high-quality finishing of the stairs with a laminate with your own hands, you will need not only a set the right tools, but also some ready-made decorative items.

Even a beginner will be able to cover the structure with a laminate with his own hands, since the material is easy and comfortable to install.

So, stock up on the following inventory:

• Parquet adhesive.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Iron corners or wooden strips.
• Plywood for cutting to width.
• Pencil for drawing contours.
• Construction tape.
• Notched trowel.
• Screwdriver.
• Hacksaw for wood.

The photo shows the basic set of tools that you will need to work with laminate.

Step-by-step instructions for facing stairs with laminate

The whole process of finishing the steps with your own hands can be broken down into several stages:

1. Laying the substrate.
2. Laminate cutting.
3. Sheathing of steps.
4. Facing the risers.
5. Installation of a metal corner.

Before proceeding with facing works, make a plan of upcoming actions and prepare required material and tools

Installation of the substrate

The process of finishing the steps of a staircase from a laminate with your own hands is carried out on a special plywood substrate. Subsequently, it will provide quiet movement on the steps and stability to physical stress. The backing also acts as a soundproofing and moisture-proof material.

There are several types of laminate underlay, including cork, which has a mass positive qualities- good sound insulation, environmental safety and durability

In addition, it is a kind of buffer that prevents the destruction of the boards when physically impacting the stairs.

The substrate is laid in a single carpet, covering the steps and risers.

Laying laminate flooring on such unprepared steps is strictly prohibited, be sure to remove all remnants of the previous coating before facing

Laminate cutting

At the second stage of installation, the laminate itself is cut out to the required dimensions. This can be done using an ordinary wood saw.

Before you start cutting the material, be sure to mark it with a simple pencil in accordance with the dimensions of the steps

It should be borne in mind that it is not necessary to immediately cut all the material, it is necessary to carry out a separate operation cutting with precise measurements.

You can cut the laminate with a hacksaw, but it is most convenient to do this with a special electric tool.

Facing steps

The cut parts are laid on the step. Then, using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, the laminate is attached to the base of the staircase.

Installation of the laminate to the steps is carried out using self-tapping screws and an electric screwdriver

Rise finishing

At the third stage, we finish the risers. The material is attached on the sides with self-tapping screws to the staircase itself. The experts advise to recessed the hats of the fastening accessories into the material.

After the horizontal plane of the steps has already been finished with the laminate, you can start finishing the risers

Installation of a metal corner

The metal profile is attached to the laminate with special durable decorative bolts

Previously, the iron profile is cut into the required lengths with a hacksaw for metal. In the process of work, you must not forget about safety precautions.

You can buy such a metal profile at any specialized store.

Then the prepared corner pieces are screwed to the laid laminate with screws. The metal profile will completely cover the caps of the self-tapping screws that hold the laminate covering.

Such a beautiful and comfortable staircase is obtained after all the work on lining the structure with laminate has been done correctly and with high quality

Informative video

Video: Choosing a laminate

Video: Facing the stairs with laminate

Ladder system for your country house or dachas do not have to be done by yourself. After all, this process takes not only a lot of time, but also a lot of physical strength. In addition, in order to make a high-quality and reliable staircase with your own hands, you must have certain knowledge and good carpentry skills.

Gorgeous and stylish staircase from the "Elegant" series with natural wood steps costs only 50 390 rubles

It is much easier to purchase a ready-made, beautiful, stylish and high-quality system in a specialized store. These are the products of various shapes, type and design offers its clients a professional online store "Ladders Master". It is not only easy to buy a structure on the company's website, but also profitable, since the prices for ready-made staircase systems here are the most democratic in Moscow and the Moscow region.

A simple and laconic, but at the same time very convenient and reliable design of the direct type has a price of 51,321 rubles.

Vadim

5806 0 0

Laminate finishing - rules for cladding unconventional surfaces

Initially, the classic laminate was created and used for the arrangement of flooring and stair treads inside the house. Over time, the people appreciated the aesthetic qualities. of this material and began to mount it everywhere, and often the owners have a rather vague idea of ​​where it can be installed and where not. In this article I will talk about how to mount laminate flooring on "unconventional" surfaces with my own hands and, of course, I will explain where and why it is not necessary to install it.

What is laminate flooring

No one will argue with the fact that natural wood and modern MDF look luxurious, always original, and most importantly prestigious. But they have one significant drawback - it's a rather high price.

Aesthetically speaking, high-quality laminated flooring is not much inferior to wood and is on a par with MDF. At the same time, the price of laminate is much lower. This is actually the main secret of the popularity of this cladding.

The basis of a classic sheet is fiberboard (fiberboard), its cost is not high. In a nutshell, a laminate is a fiberboard impregnated with various protective and reinforcing compounds, on which a decorating film was glued and covered with melamine or acrylic resin on top.

In fairness, it should be noted that now a laminate based on MDF is being successfully produced. The product is of high quality, beautiful, hardy and durable, but as you can imagine, quite expensive. We will talk about it in one of the following materials, but for now we will only talk about cladding based on fiberboard.

Why people appreciate laminate flooring

At first glance, such a cladding consists of some advantages:

• To begin with, it is considered environmentally neutral. Of course, it would not be correct to call a fiberboard impregnated with chemistry completely clean, but according to all sanitary canons, SNiPs and GOSTs, this material is allowed for use even in children's institutions;
• On average, the service life of even the cheapest laminate flooring starts from 5 years. But in this case, we mean flooring or finishing the stairs with laminate. It is easy to guess that a ceiling, walls or an entrance door with such a finish will look decent for at least 10 - 15 years;

• The top melamine or acrylic layer does not attract dust and is not able to absorb odors, which is important for living quarters;
• Both conventional and wall laminate for interior decoration has a truly fantastic selection of designs and colors;
• And finally, based on my own experience, I can assure you that no matter what type of this coating you choose, the instructions for its installation will almost certainly not cause you any special difficulties, well, I will dwell on it later.

But this elegant coating has its own pitfalls, how can it be without them:

• The main disadvantage of this material is considered intolerance to wet and open spaces. Therefore, a bathtub, a toilet, a non-insulated loggia and a balcony wall decoration (meaning an open balcony and a loggia) are categorically contraindicated for laminate;

• Of course, a waterproof material is being produced now, but, firstly, it costs serious money. And secondly, even he is not able to withstand the changes in temperature and humidity on an open balcony, the cladding is stratified and strongly warps it. Finishing the balcony with laminate is possible only if the balcony or loggia has a good winter insulation... Such a coating can still withstand installation in services under a warm floor, but no more;

Laminate wall decoration in the kitchen still causes a lot of controversy among professionals. I will venture to express my opinion. More than once I have come across a laminated apron and the same walls in kitchens. So, if the material is of high quality (preferably moisture resistant) and laid correctly, then you have nothing to fear.

• Opponents often point out that the material is far from the cheapest. Indeed, when compared with wallpaper or paint, laminate flooring will cost more. At the same time, it will come out an order of magnitude cheaper than wood, MDF panels or good tiles.

Types of material

Apart from color, design and level of moisture resistance, laminate flooring is classified according to two main criteria. The first is the method of fastening, more precisely, the type of connection between the sheets, there are only 3 of them. And the second is the degree of wear resistance, here the classification is much broader, but first things first.

1. The adhesive laminate has, so to speak, a geometrically correct shape. There are no mating grooves or latches along the edges, they are even. As the name implies, this type of panel is designed exclusively for gluing to the base and to each other. A significant disadvantage here can be considered high requirements for the base, it must be absolutely flat. In addition, problems may arise if you decide to dismantle the panels;

1. Panels with tongue-and-groove fastening are connected according to the thorn-groove principle. If you have ever encountered the installation of a tongue-and-groove board, for example, lining, or at least seen it, then the tongue-and-groove laminate connects and looks the same. The only difference is in the dimensions and configuration of the products;
2. Panels with the so-called click fastening, partly resemble the tongue-and-groove version, only the tongue and groove walls are here different sizes, plus they have a special configuration. In order to connect two plates, you need to insert the spike of one into the lower edge of the groove of the other at an angle of about 20 - 30º and at the same time pushing down and forward, install the plate. This is a relatively new and very reliable type of docking. Personally, I always try to use these panels.

As for the definition of endurance, or as they say the level of wear resistance of the material, there are seven classes of laminate. In order not to go into the jungle, I will only say that the marking of the coating intended for residential premises begins with a two. There are 3 types in this niche: No. 21, No. 22 and No. 23. The higher the number, the stronger the material.

Laminate marking designed for public buildings, offices and other similar structures, starts with a three. There are already 4 types of coatings in this direction, from No. 31 to No. 34. The level of wear resistance, as in the previous case, increases with the number.

Do not try to use the most durable material. The fact is that they all look the same. Personally, I take maximum number 22 for wall laminate for interior decoration.
But if the staircase is to be finished with a laminate, then here you already need to look at where this staircase is located. For a home, No. 22 is also enough, and in a small office you can already take No. 32 or even No. 33.

Subtleties of self-assembly of laminate

In this case, we will talk about unconventional types finishes. That is, almost everything, except for the installation of the floor covering.

In fact, there are not so many such surfaces. First of all, it is a staircase, behind it is the entrance door and the slopes of the entrance door. And completing the list is the arrangement of the walls.

Facing the stairs with laminate

In this case, the finish of a wooden, metal or concrete staircase with a laminate is not much different. But before finishing the staircase, you need to prepare it. After all, the laminate itself is just an external one, beautiful cladding and as with any cladding, careful preparation of the base is required here.

To be honest, for the most part, even and beautiful flights of stairs are only in photos and staged videos. Therefore, the first thing to do is to check the evenness of all planes, angles and dimensions of the steps.

Often, in concrete flights, defects go along the plane. V metal stairs planes are usually absolutely flat, but there is another problem, it is rare to find such a highly professional welder who can clearly, down to a millimeter, withstand all corners and joints throughout the entire flight of stairs.

In general, laminate is a good material, but thin. Ideally, you need to install some kind of substrate under it. For example, when it goes floor mounting, Penofol is used as a substrate.

Personally, I first sheathe concrete and metal marches with thick, about 10 - 12 mm plywood. The fact is that to putty a concrete march, in order to eliminate irregularities, is a very laborious and thankless task. And small curvatures in the corners in a welded metal structure are generally impossible to align.

When you mount plywood down, it smooths out all the irregularities on the one hand, and on the other, acts as a shock-absorbing substrate. Plywood is installed on concrete using self-tapping screws with plastic dowels "quick assembly". On metal constructions can be fixed with self-tapping screws for metal or fixed with bolts.

As you know, a step consists of a supporting horizontal part, which is popularly called a step (in professional literature it is called a tread), and a so-called riser - a vertical bar joining with the plane of the step.

Laminate to steps and risers can be glued or screwed on with self-tapping screws. But in both cases, all outer corners are equipped with different kinds platband corners. These corners can be metal, plastic, wood, or made, roughly speaking, of the same laminate (such fittings are available).

The technology itself is extremely simple. You need to clearly measure the platform of the step or riser and cut out a laminated panel for it. If you plant on glue, then the panel is smeared with glue, as a rule, this is "Liquid nails", and then pressed firmly against the plane.

Landing on self-tapping screws I like more. Here, the laminated coating is cut out in the same way, but not glued, but screwed through with self-tapping screws along the perimeter or only along the outer edge. This option is good because you can replace any damaged sector at any time and without difficulty.

There is no need to prepare strips for steps and risers for future use, at once for the entire flight of stairs. Believe me, all of them will differ at least by 1 - 2 mm. Therefore, you need to work with each step personally, and starting from the top is more convenient.

On the last stage the joints between the planks and, if necessary, the entry points of the screws, are closed with corners-platbands, which, in turn, are also fixed either with glue or with self-tapping screws. It already depends on the material and configuration of the corners themselves.

Front door trim

The cultivation of the entrance with the help of a laminate is conventionally divided into two directions. We will need to sheathe both the plane of the entrance door itself on one or both sides, and the doorway, or rather the slopes of the entrance door.

As for the front door leaf itself, its facing with a laminate is not very difficult. I will say more, in this case it is not even so important what kind of door you have, metal or wooden.

To begin with, you will need to unscrew all of the existing fittings. That is, the pens and decorative overlays on the keyholes. And also unscrew the peephole, if any. Naturally, if the old canvas is sheathed with leatherette or other decorating material, then it will need to be completely ripped off, to the ground.

Further, the doors should be removed from their hinges and laid on any horizontal plane, you can even on the floor. We will plant the laminate on glue, so in order for it to take on well, the canvas will need to be well cleaned with emery, dust removed and degreased.

The front door itself can be pasted over with any kind of laminate, but for this I use a click or tongue-and-groove option.

So that the plane turns out to be monolithic and firmly held, the strips are joined and glued apart. In other words, the first plank from the edge is glued in one piece, and the next one is already cut across, in half. Thus, you will not have a single continuous seam that can warp at any time.

Laminated cladding seems light at first glance. When the front door is sheathed on both sides, the weight of such a cladding turns out to be quite serious. And if the doors are old, then it is better to equip them in advance with reinforced hinges.

The finishing of the canvas is completed by attaching a decorative strip along the perimeter of this very canvas. As in the case of the staircase-platband, the configuration and assortment of decorative strips is now quite wide, so that often there are no problems with the choice.

Installation door slopes made of laminate is done a little differently. Under them, you will first need to install wooden frame... Two rows of wooden planks are stuffed along the perimeter of the doorway. The first belt goes directly next to the door cut, and the second along the outer edge of the slope.

In this case, click-to-fit laminate flooring works best. The planks are cut along the width of the slope, and they will be mounted perpendicular to the door leaf.

The click groove has a peculiar configuration, the lower shelf in it is much wider than the upper one. We will use this feature to fix the planks. This is done something like this:

• We start at the bottom left corner. The starter bar is applied with the spike down. Temporary pads of 5 - 10 mm are installed between the floor and the spike. They will provide damping clearance;
• The wide part of the groove, which we will have tightly pressed against the guides of the crate, is fixed on these guides with small wood screws or a construction stapler;
• Insert the spike of the next laminate plank into the groove of the previous one at an angle of 20 - 30º, press it into place and fix it on the reverse side in the same way as the previous one;
• At the end, we glue or fasten the fittings to the inner and outer corners.

Under the slopes of the entrance door to increase thermal insulation characteristics structures blow out often and thickly polyurethane foam... This is a good thing, only the foam should be blown out first between the wooden battens of the battens. Then it hardens, the excess is cut off and only after that you can start working. V otherwise, the foam will simply expand your slopes.

Wall cladding technique

The use of laminate for wall decoration is now considered one of the most popular and available species premises. In theory, this technology is perhaps the simplest. Easier installation wall cladding, floor only. But it has its own subtleties, which we will talk about further.

Laminate on the walls can be glued or mounted on a wooden batten. Putting on glue is quick and easy, but this method has a rather big flaw - the plane of the wall should be almost even. Smooth height differences should not exceed 3, maximum 5 mm.

For large curvatures along the wall, the planks good glue, of course, will be taken, but defects on front surface will be too noticeable. And since in the overwhelming majority of our apartments and houses the walls are far from ideal, you will have to hire a professional plasterer, because such a job is not up to an amateur.

Although I, when faced with such a situation, act easier. Relatively small curvatures can be leveled with drywall, with a traditional frame made of metal profiles in this case I am not editing.

If the wall is strong, then it is enough to simply prime it a couple of times with concrete contact. Then you throw small "cakes" on it from some glue intended for drywall. Then, with a plumb line and level check, glue the sheet. Literally the next day, laminate can be glued to this structure.

Traditionally, any long planks, be it laminate, lining or plastic panels can be installed horizontally, vertically and diagonally. So, horizontal installation will visually make the room wider, and vertical "raise" the ceiling.

Diagonal mounting is considered universal and looks quite original. But before you decorate the walls with a diagonal laminate, you should think carefully. If, with the vertical and horizontal method, about 10% of the material is used for trimming, then the installation along the diagonal will take at least 30%. And since you still have no experience in this matter, up to half of the laminate can go to waste, I know this from personal experience.

The second reason is not so significant, but I will voice it all the same. With diagonal mounting without experience, you spend at least 2 times longer than with any other. And it's not a fact that everything will turn out cleanly and beautifully.

The easiest way is to glue the planks vertically. Here, as I already said, the bottom will need to leave a damping gap of about 10 mm. It is inconvenient to pave a wedge under each plank, so it is better to immediately prepare a thin wooden plank or several planks and install it along the entire length. After that, each laminated panel is spread with glue and glued to the wall at a distance.

V horizontal installation there is another headache. As a rule, novice craftsmen buy long strips and immediately strive to recruit a large sector from them. But no matter how you mount the surface, staggered or parallel, in any case, solid horizontal joints are obtained.

So, if these joints are somehow not fixed on the wall, sooner or later, despite the fact that the laminate is glued, the sheathing will warp at the joints, or in general everything will turn out like an accordion. This will happen due to the serious weight of the planks themselves. And the more there are, the higher the likelihood of such an outcome.

One experienced master prompted me that in order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, on large spaces you need to strengthen the cladding with vertical decorative strips. These strips should be mounted rigidly (on self-tapping screws) with a step of about one and a half meters. In general, the instruction allows a maximum distance between such strips of 1.7m.

Now let's talk about how to decorate the walls with laminate by mounting it on the crate. The crate itself can be constructed from wood or from UD and CD profiles. Of course, everyone chooses the material himself, but, in my deep conviction, it is better for novice craftsmen to work with wood.

Mounting wooden lathing it's not difficult. Minimum thickness and the width of the strips is 25 mm.

If you take less, then the bar can simply split when you hammer a nail into it or drive a self-tapping screw. Although each master has his own opinion on this matter. Usually they take bars of 30x40 mm.

The strips are attached to the wall with anchors, self-tapping screws or dowels "Quick installation", the choice depends on the material from which the wall is folded. The guides are installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the laminate in increments of 30 - 40 cm.

For such a cladding, a laminate is taken, which is connected by a tongue-and-groove or click-through method. For fixing the tongue-and-groove strips on the crate, clamps are most often used.

This fastening is similar to that used for clapboard sheathing. The tongue of the cleaimer engages in the edge of the groove, after which the cleaimer itself is nailed to the guide bar.

I have already described the installation system for the click connection above in the section devoted to the arrangement of slopes on entrance doors... By the way, for greater reliability, personally, when installing a laminate on a crate, I additionally lubricate this crate with parquet glue.

As a finishing touch, a decorative edging is mounted on the wall laminate for interior decoration. Or, in the case of a crate, the perimeter can additionally be decorated with an overhead platband. The same as we installed when sheathing the stairs with laminate.

Output

As you probably already understood, the finishing of unconventional surfaces with laminate does not require extraordinary abilities or any deep professional skills. I am sure that any home craftsman can handle this job. The photo and video in this article show the main stages of this process. If you have any questions, welcome to the comments, we will talk.

October 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Recently, it is often possible to find houses in which there is a laminated staircase. It is very convenient and beautiful, as the manufacturers offer different options color solutions. This design can fit perfectly into general interior premises. Laminate steps can be quite comfortable. But the material must be chosen carefully so that in the end the stairs do not turn out to be slippery and dangerous. Laminated steps look especially beautiful in a house where the floors are already covered with laminate. This creates a harmonious picture of the interior.

What should be the laminate for a staircase?

One of important requirements safety is essential for covering the steps: the laminate for the stairs must have an anti-slip coating. This characteristic should be paid attention to first of all.

Also, the coating must be durable, it is recommended to choose a high-class laminate. In this case, you can use the ladder for a long time and not think about replacing the covering of the steps. Most long-term operation promises flexible laminate. Most often, this type of coating is classified as class 43, which indicates a high level of wear resistance and moisture resistance. Laminate for stairs must withstand heavy loads.

Preparation of steps for laminate

If the staircase was originally wooden, then it is recommended to update first upper layer... For this, the steps are ground and primed. There will be no unnecessary processing of wood from pests and fungi. If, when checking, it turns out that some steps are loosened, they must be fixed with screws before installing the laminate. The hats are completely sunk into the wood and covered with putty on top. This will keep the surface as flat as possible. The putty is also used on all gaps and cracks in wooden steps.

Preparation of steps for laminate

A concrete staircase must be leveled if it has bumps or dents. In the event that the steps are level enough, the preparation stage can be safely skipped. But in any case, you should pay attention to the differences between the parts of the steps. They should not be too large, as this is dangerous. To eliminate such a problem, you can use special building mixtures... They are simply poured over the top of the step and spread evenly. When dry, the surface is leveled by itself.

In the event that on concrete steps there will be very large irregularities or cracks, it is more convenient to use concrete. To fill it, formwork is installed. To build it, you can take plywood three to four millimeters in size - this will be quite enough.

Characteristics of laminate flooring for stairs

When choosing suitable material you should pay attention to its class. Laminate can be of 21 classes. This option will be the cheapest, but it will not work for stairs. This requires a strong coating, so it is best to opt for a class of 30 and above. For the stairs there will be suitable option even flexible laminate, especially since it is considered the strongest. A particularly durable coating is necessary for those stairs, which will be walked a lot. For example, when it comes to finishing steps in a store, you should choose the most durable laminate. If you choose a material above grade 30, it will be shockproof, moisture resistant and have good sound insulation... The service life of such steps without the need for repair will be more than 12 years.

Example of a laminate that is suitable for stairs

Facing steps with laminate

After the base itself is ready, you can start working on decorating the stairs. This requires a tape measure, a corner, a hammer with a wooden head, manual jigsaw, metal corners, fasteners for them, as well as a substrate.

Once the laminate has been selected, it must be cut straight away. To do this, you should carefully measure each element in order not to overspend the finishing material. Experts recommend using thin strips of laminate flooring, as it is more convenient to mount it on the stairs. So you can put two strips on each step.

Primarily on concrete pavement the underlay should be placed. It will be a kind of buffer that will not allow the laminate to deform even under severe loads. The underlay should be laid with one sheet so that it covers both the steps and the risers.

Then it will be possible to apply the laminate prepared to the size. The cut boards must be laid on the steps, and fastened along the edges with self-tapping screws. They must go deep into the plywood either wooden base... The main thing is that no parts of the screws are sticking out, otherwise the ladder can become very dangerous.

All uneven edges and visible parts of metal fittings should be covered with corners. They will create not only decorative effect, but also give the steps more safety. In conclusion, you should definitely check the quality of the work done. The laminate should hold very tightly and firmly, and there should be no creaking or crunching anywhere. For greater safety, a special anti-slip profile should be attached. With it, the laying of the finishing material will be simpler and more convenient. This is especially important for those new to the renovation business.

There is nothing complicated about laying laminate flooring on stairs. The main thing is to approach this process responsibly and choose the right facing material.

The main requirements for staircase structures are strength, reliability and attractive appearance... Therefore, not every material is suitable for making steps. Laminate finishing of stairs is very widely practiced these days, since this material has all the properties that are necessary for a high-quality surface coating.

In this article, we will talk about how to sheathe a staircase with laminate, considering the advantages and features of working with this material.

Laminate is a fiberboard-based floor covering. Rigid laminate boards have a fairly high strength, perfectly withstanding various loads, which is achieved due to the layered structure.

Such a board consists of four layers:

1. The function of the bottom layer is to protect the board from various deformations.... It is a stabilizing layer designed to increase rigidity. In some types of material, a sound insulator is glued to this layer, which allows flooring perfectly "dampen" extraneous noise.
2. Carrier layer serving as the basis of the structure... It is made from high density fiberboard.
   It is this layer that is most important in the design, since it performs several functions:
   
   • First, a lock is cut in this layer, by means of which the boards are fastened together.
   • Secondly, this layer performs the main soundproofing functions.
   • Thirdly, the moisture resistance of the boards directly depends on this layer, which is impregnated with special protective compounds.

1. Decorative layer... It is he who performs the function of decoration. It is represented by a sheet of paper on which a pattern of wood, tile, stone or any other texture is applied.
2. Top, protective layer... This is an acrylic or melamine resin coating that protects the board from abrasion and impact. The wear resistance class of the material directly depends on this layer, but recently it has also acquired a decorative function. A texture is applied to its surface to better imitate natural wood.

Coating Benefits

Decorating the stairs with a laminate with your own hands is the best solution for several reasons:

1. Various textures and colors, so this staircase will easily fit into any interior.
2. The cover is very easy to repair.
3. Low price.

Laminate for stairs must meet the following requirements:

1. Abrasion resistance to maintain the attractiveness of the staircase for a long time.
2. Durability, since the coating will experience significant loads during operation.
3. Anti-slip coating that will ensure the safety of movement on the stairs.

Advice!
To cover the steps, it is necessary to choose a product whose strength will be at least 31 class.

1. The first ladder rung most often differs from other rungs, since it protrudes strongly from the ladder bowstring from the side. Therefore, it will be best to make a cardboard template, according to which the plates will be accurately cut, in order to avoid waste of material.
2. If you do not encounter any difficulties when cutting the steps of the marching staircase, then starting to cut out parts for screw design, you definitely need to create templates. In this case, the measurement will most often have to be done from each step, after which the form should be transferred to cardboard.
   Otherwise, you will reject a large number of material by cutting the slabs incorrectly.
3. A durable coating can only be obtained if the staircase is completely covered with laminate sheets, since the sheathing performs not only a decorative function, but also a protective one.

Preparatory stage

Advice!
If you decide to lay laminated panels on the stairs, then you should firmly remember that they are not able to strengthen loose steps and themselves need a solid and reliable foundation.

• Even if the steps are strong enough, but have play, the panels will move apart. At the same time, you cannot glue them either, since they can crack. The thickness of the panels is 6-12 mm, so this material can become a durable coating, but not a base.
• Providing laminated steps for stairs, you must first of all reliably fix the risers and treads by means of self-tapping screws, eliminating any backlash.
• Before starting work, all weak structural elements should be replaced.
• If any paintwork was carried out before finishing the stairs from the laminate, then the coating should dry well before starting installation.

Advice!
After the self-tapping screw is screwed into the tree, a small depression remains above its head.
In order for the cap not to rust when exposed to moisture, it should be closed with a wooden chopik or repaired with a wood putty.

Carrying out work on laying laminate

Now let's look at how to finish the stairs with laminate.

The instruction provides for the following stages of work:

1. Before you start finishing, you should consider that you can achieve the best quality if one step is covered with one laminated panel that does not have interlocks. That is, one panel goes to the tread and one to the riser.
2. Today it is possible to find laminated panels according to the tread width without any problems.
   In case if ladder structure is multi-march, then on the sites you should lay the laminate lock in the lock. (see also the article Two-flight staircase, construction and materials used)

Advice!
To calculate required amount material, you do not need to measure the staircase at all - it is enough to know how much material should be used for one tread and riser, multiplying this number by the number of steps.

1. Any packaging of laminate flooring contains instructions, which say that immediately before laying under the material, it is necessary to underlay the substrate. This measure allows not only to insulate the floor, but also to reduce noise. A 2 mm polyethylene backing can be used as a sound insulator.
   This material has two advantages: price and excellent sound attenuation.

The joints between polyethylene sheets can be glued with adhesive tape.

1. To adjust the panels to the steps, you can use an electric jigsaw equipped with a file for wood. However, if you want to cut a curly piece, for example, under a baluster, then you should use a narrow and durable metal file.
   Also, the panels are easily cut using ordinary hacksaws for metal or wood, a hand-held circular saw or a grinder with an edging disc.

1. After the sound absorber has been installed, laminated panels can be attached to the steps. Placing the stairs with a laminate itself is a simple procedure that requires only carefulness from you. For this, screws can be used, which it is advisable to choose from non-ferrous metals in order to avoid rust.
   It will be quite sufficient to screw one self-tapping screw from each edge of the tread, since the panel will also be pressed by means of a metal corner.
   The risers are mounted in the same way. That is, from both edges, the panel is screwed to the base using self-tapping screws.
2. Since the main load on the covering falls on the edge of the panel, a laminate ladder profile is used to protect it. If such a profile is not installed, then very soon you may need a new laminate finishing of the steps of the stairs, since the old coating will become unusable.
   The metal corner will also protect the material from uneven abrasion, and, accordingly, preserve its attractive appearance.

Conclusion

Facing stair steps with laminated panels is an excellent way out of a situation when the old coating has fallen into disrepair, and the base is strong and reliable. Laminate will provide excellent protection to the substrate due to its strength and durability.

In this case, you will receive absolutely new stairs for a reasonable price and short terms... In the video presented in this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.

The interior made of different types of wood has always been very appreciated, not because there is a lot of such material in Russia, but because of its beauty and practicality. Nevertheless, everything comes to an end - such crafts are wiped off, break, and you have to start overhaul... But finishing the staircase with laminate retains its attractiveness, and at the same time, it makes it possible to replace panels with new ones almost painlessly.

About laminate and stairs

Before laying the laminate

• Since you have decided to lay the laminate on the stairs, then you should firmly remember that laminated panels, firstly, cannot strengthen loose steps and, secondly, they themselves need a rigid foundation.
  Even if the steps are strong enough, but the structure itself has a backlash, the panels will simply disperse, and if they are glued, they can crack.
• So, a laminate for a staircase can only serve as a finishing material and nothing more, because it is not even a wooden plate, but a collection of dissimilar layers.
  The thickness of the panels is from 6 to 12 mm and of wood, or rather, only one layer is made of high-density fiberboard, along the perimeter of which there is a lock.
  Two more layers are made of different paper, and one is made of acrylic or melamine resin.

• First of all, if you are repairing a staircase with your own hands, fix all the treads and risers with self-tapping screws so that they do not have any backlash.
  If there is a need to replace any structural elements, then it is better to do it right away, before you start. Also, before finishing, you need to carry out all the paintwork and let the coating dry well.

Advice.
After screwing the self-tapping screw into the wood, there is usually a recess above the screw head.
So that it does not rust in case of moisture ingress, it is better to close it with a wooden chopstick or seal it with wood putty.

Laying laminate

• First of all, you should take into account that laminate finishing of stairs will be of the highest quality if only one laminated panel is used on one step, without locking joints.
  In this case, we are talking only about treads and risers - one panel per tread and one panel per riser. If between flights of stairs there are platforms, then there the usual way, castle to castle.
• Considering that now the manufacturer is focused on the consumer, laminate flooring for stairs can always be selected in accordance with the width of the tread, since its range is quite large.
  To calculate the amount of material, you do not need to measure the entire staircase - it is enough to know how many panels will be spent on the riser-tread, and then multiply by the number of steps.
  And if you select the panels according to the width of the treads, then it will be even easier to count them.

• The main load on the laminate with which they are finished stair steps, falls on the edge of the panel, so wear will progress exactly in this place, as well as on any other staircase.
  To avoid uneven abrasion, and maybe even break the panel, it is best to fix a metal corner at its edges, as can be seen in the photo, which will serve as a reliable fuse.

• In any case, when you make laminate steps for stairs, you will have to drive the panels under the treads and risers.
  The best tool for cutting laminate flooring is electric jigsaw with a nail file for wood, although if you need to cut out any shape, for example, under a stair baluster, it is better to use a narrower file for metal.
  To cut panels, you can also use hacksaws for wood or metal, a manual electric circular and even a grinder with an edging disc, although there will be a lot of smoke.

• Each package of laminate flooring has instructions that say what you need to lay before laying.
  Indeed, such a measure serves not only to insulate the floor, but also to reduce noise, and the staircase is just a rather resonant object.
  For sound insulation, a thin (2 mm) polyethylene foam backing is quite enough - it's cheap and muffles the sound.
• Laminated panels can be fastened to the stairs with self-tapping screws, but it is better to choose these screws from non-ferrous metals so that they do not rust.
  It will be quite enough to screw in one self-tapping screw from each edge of the tread or riser, since in addition the panel will be pressed against the metal corner. To consolidate knowledge of laminate installation, a video clip is installed on the page.

Recommendation.
Stairways are always a place of increased cross-country ability and, therefore, an intensive load, where the abrasion of the panels is especially high.
To mitigate the impact of these factors, it is best to use commercial laminate collections, that is, a class of at least 31.
The price of commercial classes is much higher, but the life of such a laminate at home can be from 20 to 25 years.
Commercial grade markings start with the number 3, and the second number indicates the thickness of the upper protective layer (31, 32, 33, 34).

Conclusion

Laminate finishing of the stairs allows you to choose finishing material for the general interior of the room and, moreover, the installation itself does not take much time. It is very easy to care for such a coating and you can use almost any detergents used at home. Laminated panels are impact resistant ultraviolet rays(do not fade) are quite resistant to blows with blunt objects.