Heating stove baby. How a baby brick oven is built, from foundation to masonry
Without competently organized heating comfortable living in a private house is out of the question. However, it is often necessary to arrange heating in other secondary rooms. In such situations, compact heating and cooking stoves of the "Baby" type will be an excellent solution.
A similar unit will be able to heat a small country house, workshop and other premises with an area of up to 25-35 m2. The baby oven is being built in as soon as possible from available materials... After reading the further recommendations, you can lay out the furnace unit yourself without any problems.
The baby oven has compact dimensions and relatively modest weight. Due to this, the requirements for the foundation for the furnace are somewhat softened, however, some efforts will still have to be made to equip it.
First step. Prepare a foundation pit 80 cm wide, 90 cm long and 45 cm deep. These are standard values. If you build a stove according to individual project, do not forget to change the dimensions of the base accordingly.
Align the bottom and sides of the groove carefully.
It is forbidden to tie the main foundation of the building to the stove foundation. The slightest movement of the ground will cause cracks to appear in this kind of structure, which, as a result, can even lead to the complete destruction of the building.
Second phase. Cover the bottom of the pit with a 10 cm sand cushion. The sand must be compacted as much as possible. For better compaction, spill backfill with water. Let the sand dry overnight.
Stage three. Make the formwork. In principle, you can do without formwork, but the presence of this element is very desirable. To assemble the formwork, use ordinary strong wooden planks... The upper edge of the formwork must be level with the floor.
Furnace foundation
Consider the fact that after the mortar dries, you will need to remove the formwork, while in such a way that neither the foundation nor the floor is damaged.
Base reinforcement
The upper border of the finished foundation will be approximately 70 mm below the floor plane. In view of this, the height foundation slab, minus the aforementioned 7-centimeter gap and 10-centimeter sand filling, will be 28 cm. Rely on this value in the process of assembling the reinforcing frame.
If you wish, you can make a single-layer sheathing from thick rods, however professional builders it is recommended to take rods of a slightly smaller diameter and make 2 reinforcing meshes.
First step. Lay the reinforcement cage. First, lay out the longitudinal rods in parallel at a distance of about 100 mm. As a result, you use 7 rods 80 cm long. On top of the longitudinal rods, lay the rods perpendicular to them with the same pitch. This will take 8 rods, each 70 cm long.
Second step. Tighten the bar joints with flexible steel wire. Lay the same second one on top of the first crate. Pull the joints of the battens with wire.
Step three. Take 9 reinforcement rods each 25 cm long. You will place four such rods at the corners of the meshes, place four rods along the edges, and place the remaining one rod at the center point of the reinforcing layer.
Place stones or other elements where the reinforcement contacts the sand to prevent the metal from contacting the ground.
Fourth step. Sink the reinforcements in sand pillow... The reinforcement must not stick out over the concrete pour.
Start filling. The concrete is poured into a uniform continuous horizontal layer in one pass.
After pouring, vibrate the material or at least pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar to eliminate excess air. Such processing will contribute to an increase in the final strength of the foundation.
Leave the poured concrete for a month to dry and cure. During the first week, regularly water the fill with water, otherwise the foundation will crack. Better to lay a dense baggy cloth on the concrete and pour water directly onto it.
Cover the cured concrete aluminum foil(reflective side up) and start laying out the "Baby" type stove.
Ordering the "Baby" oven
1-2 row. Lay out two starting solid rows. Check the rows and corners for evenness. The starting rows will finally level the base and will serve as a support for the further part of the structure. Perform masonry using a standard clay mortar for such work.
3 row. Install the blower door and lay out the chimney base.
4 row. The masonry does not differ from the third row.
5 row. Close the flue duct in the center so that there are two moves left on the sides. Close the blower door.
6 row. Install the grate over the cavity closed by the blower door.
7 row. Lay out the base of the combustion compartment. Install the door for the same chamber.
8-9 row. Laying is carried out in the same way as on the 7th row.
10 row. Close the door of the combustion compartment. On the same row, you need to open a window from the firebox chamber to the rear furnace channel.
11 row. Perform installation hob... The order does not differ from the previous one.
12 row. Close the channel into which you tapped in the process of laying out the 10th row. Start laying out the walls of the brewing compartment.
Row 13. Laying repeats the 12th row.
Row 14. Open the second horizontal oven channel. Bring out the cleaning hatch in its rear part.
15 row. Laying repeats the 14th row.
16 row. Close the horizontal channel from the 14th row, leaving, at the same time, a branch in the opposite side from the place where the outlet was organized when laying the 12th row. Place the metal strap over the brewing compartment.
17 row. Cover the horizontal channel with another layer of overlap. This creates a drying compartment. With the same row, you will overlap the brewing compartment on top of the previously fixed metal band.
Row 18. Select the 3rd horizontal oven channel. It will run at the back of the kiln unit. After it, the smoke will be directed straight into the exhaust pipe. Equip the end of the channel with a cleaning hatch.
19 row. Laying repeats the 18th row.
20 row. Shut off the last horizontal chimney duct.
21 row. Lay out the transition to the chimney and proceed with the formation of the chimney structure. The laying of the stove itself on this row is completed.
Row 22 and above. Lay out the chimney.
In the end, you will have to equip the smoke exhaust structure to the end and, if desired, complete finishing homemade stove... You can leave it without finishing - the brick already has a completely aesthetic appearance.
The "Baby" type oven belongs to the category of typical channel ovens. If there is such a desire, it can be modified and turned into a bell-type furnace by slightly increasing the coefficient useful action unit.
In some situations, "babies" are used to heat a single room of the house, performing the function of a kind of fireplace. For example, such a unit will look good in a large living room. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences.
Happy work!
Video - Do-it-yourself baby oven
Heating cooking ovens last century
Content:
For a garden insulated house, a small compact economical "Baby" stove with a height of no more than 2.2 m is convenient. If desired, the stove can be made higher by adding several rows between the 18th and 19th. The oven is equipped with a cooking and two drying chambers. Due to its small size and mixed (flat and edge) masonry, only 250 bricks are required (up to the chimney).
The design of the furnace is simple, and with little skills it is not difficult to build it, however, a lot of curly bricks are required.
The stove is placed on a solid foundation, which should be 5-10 cm larger than its size. In a foundation pit, dug to solid ground, poured brick breakage, rubble stone and poured with cement in a ratio of 1: 5 with the cement grade M-400. The foundation should not reach the floor level for 1-2 rows.
First, a brick is picked up dry in each row, then put on a clay-sand mortar. Rows are counted on the right side, from the side of the valves. The width of the gas ducts along the walls is not less than 7.2 cm. It should be borne in mind that the summer gas duct in the rear wall is always hot. Above its valves, the gas duct is made square, for which the bottom of the 24th row is cut off (see section B — B).
Heating stove "Baby-5"
Stove for any solid fuel... If necessary, the firebox can be rearranged to the side wall, where the latch and cleaning door are located. The oven can be folded lower or higher. To do this, after the 17th row, you need to subtract or add from one to eight rows of masonry. The firebox is lined (i.e. lined on the edge) with refractory bricks. If you do not heat with coal, then you can lead the entire masonry from red brick. If you heat with wood, then the grate needs to be made smaller, it is laid out and blown over it.
For the oven you need:
red brick - 370 pieces,
refractory bricks - 16-21 pieces,
gate valve with a hole 12x21 cm - one,
piece grates 30 cm long - 10 pieces.
The simplest oven suitable for a summer kitchen, according to the principle of which you can fold whole line similar. Oven without blower. There are openings in the door for air access. The gases from the firebox go directly into the nozzle tube-1, which can be made of any height, gradually narrowing it. The stove can be connected to a gas duct in brick wall or to a free-standing pipe. The oven can be placed directly on a solid floor. For fire-fighting purposes, it is necessary to install through holes-trenches-2 from below, from which it will come out warm air, allocated by the hearth of the furnace. The slab is pushed into the brick.
For the oven you need:
red brick - 240 pieces,
furnace door with holes 21x25 cm - one,
gate valve 12x21 cm or 13x13 cm - one.
Heating and cooking stove without doors and furnace hole
The stove is suitable for a summer kitchen; fuel is loaded through big hole in stove-1, in which the mugs can be replaced with a lid from an old saucepan. You can only heat such a stove with wood. The furnace has a blowing hole without a door-2. For better combustion, there are grate bars made of whole bricks-3 in the firebox, which are installed on the fourth row. The gases from the furnace go through the pass wall-4, go down, heating the walls of the furnace, and rise up into the riser-pipe. There is a soot cleaning window-5, which is laid with a brick on the edge. A homemade sheet iron-6 valve can be installed where it is convenient for the owners. For the valve at the base of the 27th row, a slot with a depth of 0.3-0.5 cm is pushed out. The height of the slot is made according to the thickness of the iron valve so that there is no more than 0.2 cm of clearance above the valve and the valve moves freely. The slab is laid on the 11th row. The stove is heated to the floor and has a minimum of stove appliances.
For the oven you need:
red brick - 260 pieces,
cast iron plate 41x71 cm - one,
gate valve.
Heating and cooking stove with a tank
Coal oven. The gases from the furnace go through the pass wall-1. Falling down, they heat the water in tank-2. If you don't need much hot water, then the tank can be installed in another place-3, here the water will heat up longer, but it will stay hot longer. Gases, bypassing the tank, heating the stove to the bottom, go into the riser-pipe. For convenience and safety, it is better to install the tank as shown in fig. 42.6 (3). On the 11th row, a slab and an iron corner are laid. An oven can be installed in the oven (fig. 42.6).
For the oven you need:
red brick - 220 pieces,
refractory bricks - 20 pieces,
furnace door 25x21 cm - one,
cleaning door 14x14 cm - one,
blower door 14x14 cm - one,
cast iron plate 41x71 cm - one,
piece grate bars 25 cm long, a latch 12x21 cm - one, a homemade cistern 15x37x28 cm - one, a homemade oven 30x37x27 cm.
Heating and cooking stove with a shield
Furnace for coal. For heating with wood, the masonry is made of red brick, in this case the door is lowered one row lower, and two rows of masonry are placed above it. If the oven does not warm up well from below, then you need to lay a hole in the ninth row behind the cabinet with a piece of iron.
You can install one latch, but then you need to close all doors after heating the stove.
A plate and a corner are placed on the tenth row. If there is no corner, then the slab is inserted into the brick.
For better heating it is more convenient to install partitions flush with shield-1, or the shield should protrude 25 cm.
For the oven you need:
red brick - 400 pieces,
refractory bricks - 17 pieces,
slab 41x71 cm - one,
furnace door 21x25 cm - one,
blower door 14x14 cm - one,
cleaning door 14x14 cm - four,
piece grates, length 30 cm,
gate valve 12x21 cm - two.
Device issues stove heating are not always limited to the construction of massive structures for efficient heating large rooms... In some cases, it is required to provide heat supply to a small, not necessarily living space, it may be a garage, summer cuisine, workshops or just a country house. At first glance, a stove stove is ideal for performing such a function, but there are models that will cope with the work much more efficiently.
The simplest device has a baby brick oven, which can be supplemented with a hob. Its area at the base does not exceed 400 cm 2, but at the same time the baby is capable of heating a room up to 30 m 2 in the area. It is also noteworthy that the construction of such a model will not require a significant investment of time, money and effort. If a real stove for the house should be built by a person with a certain experience in this matter, then a baby built with his own hands can serve as the first experience of a novice master.
Compact oven version
Advantages of the model
Each variant of the project is designed to perform specific tasks. It makes no sense to compare all models with each other, since under some conditions those characteristics that are not considered fundamental under other conditions may be important. Therefore, it is customary to highlight the advantages of the presented model. Our baby brick oven is not without such a list.
- In order to install a Russian stove, you will need to donate a significant part useful area... The very purpose of the baby suggests that high performance it is not expected of her. But the compactness is appreciated by the owners of small country houses.
- Marked as positive point lack of elements made of heat-resistant materials. But in this matter, the choice remains with the master, since some professional builders still advise covering the firebox area with fireclay bricks.
- The simplicity of the construction scheme makes it possible, at relatively low costs, to obtain a finished device within a short time.
- Even when the stove is operating as usual, fuel savings are noted, which will eliminate the need to stock up on huge amounts of firewood.
- Some experts argue that this model does not require a foundation. Theoretically durable flooring able to withstand the load from the mass of the structure, however, if you care about reliability not for one year, but for decades, then you should think about the foundation. V non-residential premises the baby can be erected on a base using a concrete slab.
Examples of simple stoves
Arrangement of the foundation
Having built the foundation, you will provide your future structure with a reliable foundation. If you use any unprepared floor covering, then over time you cannot avoid its deformation. This will lead to a violation of the integrity of the masonry, the restoration of which may require a complete disassembly of the stove. However, the small mass of the device cannot but affect the requirements for the foundation, they are much less stringent than for traditional models.
If you are thinking about building country house, as comfortable as possible for comfortable stay in it, then it usually cannot do without a small oven, especially if it is planned to use it for most of the year. Lack of experience in furnace work should not stop the owners who want to invest in the furnace on their own. You just need to choose the right one, not really difficult option, the design of which is simple and straightforward.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Consider simple options that are also suitable for small house, and for a novice stove-maker – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice... Well, then, consider several options, focusing on the optimal one for a specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick ovens
The conditions that the selected design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the oven, warming up, give large quantity heat, while the indicator of the front and rear walls is 3 ÷ 4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped version of the furnace is often installed. It can be designed for heating only, or it can perform two functions if a model is selected in which a hob is provided. Such a stove is capable of heating up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the building inside the house, it should be as rational as possible. For the oven to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking appliance, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter should correspond not only to the area of the rooms, but also to their location and number outer walls... This table will help to determine the choice of the stove by the area of its surfaces, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m2 | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outer corner | Room with two outer corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oven surface opening into the room, m2 | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- No need to play it safe and choose for small house massive oven, as it takes a long time to warm it up and enough a large number of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be "thrown into the pipe". In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half a room, since heat transfer largely depends on internal structure stove, and not only from its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat generated by it will go through walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel, getting high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose the bell-type stove, which, thanks to the numerous channels, will keep the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.
How to choose the right place for your oven?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up a project, so you can install a heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, it is much easier to equip a foundation for a stove before building a house, both in terms of calculations and in the amount of work. It must be said right away that the base for the furnace must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may deform.
- If several rooms are planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crosshairs of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not be in contact with each other, interior walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the above diagram.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install the stove near the entrance from the street, since the heat radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold streams.
- Placing a combustion hatch near the front door will get rid of excess debris in living rooms, since they do not have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to burn yourself against it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not adjoin the walls of the house closely, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since they require periodic monitoring for safety reasons, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in this case, a reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to provide for the chimney to fall between the attic floor beams, which should be at least 150 mm away from it, with the creation of a heat-insulating "gasket" filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with expanded clay of fine fraction, mineral wool, vermiculite or just sand.
- The area in front of the furnace must be covered with a heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
You may be interested in information about what constitutes
Models of simple design small brick ovens
Small brick ovens do not lose their relevance today. And this despite the emerging alternative options heating, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are inaccessible in the countryside. A stove, traditional for Russian houses, will either help out in any situations - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if gas is not supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing about the demand for models of small furnaces, engineers have developed a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed below.
Oven "Krokha"
The name of the model "Krokha" in itself speaks of the dimensions of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, with correct installation design, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For country house This compact stove is ideal as it is able to create comfort in it in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called "simpleton", because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it may well be built even by a novice craftsman. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640 × 770 mm at the base, therefore it is suitable even for small room, where it will be decided to allocate a corner for her.
The designer of the stove A. Sushkov has successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, therefore "Krokha" will perfectly fit not only into the dacha room, but also decorate the interior of a private house with its cozy look. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of 18 ÷ 20 m², and has the following characteristics:
| Furnace parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3 × 2.5 bricks or 640 × 770 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Furnace weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Furnace depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 Wt |
| With a three-time firebox | 2940 Wt |
| Hob | Single burner |
The designer has well thought out the rationality of the stove, therefore, for its small size, it gives excellent heat transfer. In the process of stoking this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the released heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The oven is equipped with a "summer" run, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. "Krokha" has three design options, differing from each other in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often an improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and the firebox are located on the same side. This arrangement is convenient in that the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located through the wall from the kitchen.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only wood heat, but also those of such fuels as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the level of the slab, the oven has smooth walls, and above the furnace door, under hob, along the entire perimeter of the structure, a row protruding forward by 30 ÷ 35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: upper, air-gas and lower - fuel. In the upper part of the furnace, there are channels for the circulation of heated air. They contribute to the maximum long-term retention of heat in the oven, preventing it from immediately going into the pipe.
According to the developer's idea, this furnace should be equipped with a furnace door with refractory glass, through which the tongues of flame are perfectly visible. Therefore, if desired, "Krokha" can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney | 352 | |
| Shaped (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350 × 250 | 1 | |
| Glass furnace door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 140 | 1 |
| 410 × 340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500 × 700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40 × 40 × 5 × 520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - "Malyshka"
The main advantage of the model is its small size, which is 505 × 760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360 ÷ 365 kg, allows the installation of the structure on a strong heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, therefore, when heated, it quickly begins to give off heat to the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.
When laying this model of the furnace, it is important to take into account one point - in the first lower row of the back wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, it must be laid without mortar. This must be done so that after the completion of the laying, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the furnace can be cleaned from the fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help to dry faster finished structure... Then, the brick can be installed in place already on the mortar.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Usually, for this, an asbestos sheet with a thickness of 5 mm is used, which is closed from above with a metal sheet or roofing material and an additional continuous layer brickwork... In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and fixed in front of the stove.
First fire finished oven it must be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the oven is heated, its doors and latch are opened for ventilation and final drying, which should be carried out for at least 7 ÷ 9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the oven. The question arises: . On the whitewash layer, smoke will immediately appear if there are small gaps that are not visible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. The smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash, which will stretch upward from the rejected seam. When such traces appear, the seam from which they emanate must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and accurately.
You might be interested in information on how to do with step by step instructions
If you plan to produce decorative trim the outer walls of the "Malyshka", then you can start this only after two or three months of operation of the oven.
The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought out into the street in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- Immured into it steel pipe and connecting it to the main chimney;
- The embedded pipe can be brought out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this model. brick oven, since the number of rows and the configuration of the chimney ducts are clearly visible on it.
The main characteristics of the "Baby" stove are as follows:
| Furnace parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505 × 760 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 725 mm |
| Furnace weight | 360 ÷ 370 kg |
| Furnace depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney channel cross-section | 100 × 100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 Wt |
| Hob | single-burner |
For the construction of the "Baby" stove, the following materials and ready-made elements will be required (excluding the chimney):
| Name of materials and components | Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the furnace | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 140 | 1 |
| Cast iron furnace door | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron plate | 410 × 340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350 × 200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| 550 × 800 | 1 |
Fireclay brick prices
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model is easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a water heating tank to its design. In this configuration, "Baby" can be used as a sauna stove.
You may be interested in information about what mini
Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in the country if, in addition to it, an electrical or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building a stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they become a kind of "battery" half a wall in size, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, moreover, the front and rear walls of them account for 210 W, and the side ones - 895 W.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, more material will be required for it.
The characteristics of this mini oven model consist of the following parameters:
In this case, the design of the furnace, as well as the structure of the "Krokhi", can be divided into two sections: the upper one is for the gas outlet, and the lower one is for the furnace. The upper part of the furnace - the "bell", consists of vertical channels, interconnected by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air stays inside the structure longer, warming up the entire area of its side walls.
To build this model, you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Dimensions in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion section | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250 × 400 | 1 |
| Cast iron blower door | 140 × 200 | 1 |
| Cast iron furnace door | 200 × 300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140 × 200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 310 | 2 |
| Roofing material sheet for waterproofing | 1000 × 600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500 × 700 | 1 |
For ease of work, craftsmen use special ordering schemes, which must be guided by when laying each row.
Chimney valves prices
chimney valves
This ordering diagram shows the laying of the stove from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on a well-equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor... Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it will not work to install it on a wooden floor.
- Roofing material is laid under the masonry in two layers, and in order to simplify the alignment of the first row, on waterproofing material can be drawn with chalk using a long ruler, the border of the base.
- When laying the first row, one must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control instruments - a plumb line and building level... Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each of the rows.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, a vertical chimney channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is being installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. From the fifth to the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and fixed with wire.
Roofing material prices
roofing felt
- The following diagram shows the ordering from the 13th to the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, therefore it is very important to lay the masonry in accordance with the scheme. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined, and it will have to be redone.
- Having finished the laying of the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the formed space, and the door of the cleaning chamber is installed. Further, up to 25 rows, laying is made according to the ordering scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the door of the cleaning chamber is mounted.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are laid, with which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The rest of the rows are laid according to the scheme, and the laying of the chimney begins from the 35th row.
Heating and cooking "Swede" - a detailed description of the oven masonry
General description and required materials
In the final section, a fairly popular model of the Swedish stove will be presented. She is chosen for detailed description, since with its simplicity of design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking oven has a good arrangement of all functional elements - they are located on one front side structures. Therefore, such a "Swede" is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the flat rear brick wall, which heats up perfectly during the fire, into the living room.
The dimensions of this structure are 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal / hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the "Swedish" was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating country house, size 4000 × 7000 mm, erected from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses with other sizes, as evidenced by the parameters of its heat transfer.
- Firewood and other types of solid fuels can be used as fuel for this stove.
- With this model, only the inner lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay bricks will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the front of the stove, made of high-quality red bricks. Its external finishing is not provided.
- In order for the oven to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), therefore, placing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the masonry of the drying chamber is required.
If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
You may be interested in information about which one is better to use when building fireplaces and stoves.
Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking "Swedish":
| Name of materials and components | Size (mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red corpulent oven brick (excluding pipe height) | 250 × 120 × 60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250 × 124 × 65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140 × 250 | 1 |
| Furnace door | 210 × 250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140 × 140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450 × 250 × 290 | 1 |
| Cast iron cooking two-burner stove | 410 × 710 | 1 |
| Grate | 200 × 300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130 × 250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130 × 130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45 × 45 × 5 × 1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45 × 45 × 5 × 700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45 × 45 × 5 × 905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50 × 5 × 650 | 2 |
| Dryer shelf | 190 × 340 | 1 |
| Overlapping sheet metal drying chambers | 800 × 905 × 0.5 ÷ 1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500 × 700 × 1.5 ÷ 2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the order of work |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, should have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented. |
 | The second row is laid out with 28 ½ red bricks, also solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid apart, with overlapping joints. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the bottom heating chamber begins, which will be located under the oven, and the blower. Vertical flue ducts also begin to form. Laying out the row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the bottom heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast-iron doors are fixed in the windows. After that, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on spoons. Moreover, a brick, installed in the right vertical channel, has a shallow angle, for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, the fourth part of the fire-resistant fireclay bricks is installed in the first chimney channel - in the figure it is highlighted in yellow. For laying this row, ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red bricks are required. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, the channels and chambers continue to form, according to the scheme, and the chimney channels remain united for the time being. For a row, you need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, previously installed doors are overlapped. The side walls of the bottom of the combustion chamber are laid with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut out steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but split with the first right channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the picture. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and now three separate channels should form at the rear of the furnace. The base for the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the niche for oven and the fuel chamber is erected from chamotte brick quarters. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The frame of the door must be wrapped with asbestos material so that an expansion gap remains between it and the brick for expansion of the metal when it heats up. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of free bricks until it is rigidly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also previously wrapped in asbestos. For laying this row and interior arrangement niches need 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the laid out sixth row with installed box oven. |
 | On the seventh row, the furnace and oven chambers continue to form - the inner lining is fire-resistant, and outdoor masonry- red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red on the bed (flat). For work, you need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry goes according to the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked by a brick. The rest of the work is carried out according to the shown scheme, and for them it is necessary to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. V refractory brick, installed along the inner perimeter of the front part of the stove, a 10 × 10 mm step is cut out, intended for laying a cast-iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Laying out the tenth row, on a step cut in fireclay brick, around the perimeter interior space lay an asbestos cord. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located at the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel angle (45 × 45 × 1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect brick corner from damage and overall strengthening row. |
 | On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the oven is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the 10th row masonry. For work, you need to prepare 16 pieces of red bricks. |
 | For the 12th row, 15 red bricks will be required - the masonry goes according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the shown ordinal scheme. For the 13th row 15½ bricks are required, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here it must be borne in mind that the seams between the bricks of the lower row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a pattern different from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also stacked according to the ordering scheme. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the masonry of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are stacked side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition, the front part of the chamber is covered with a strip of 45 × 45 × 700 mm. These elements form a reliable support for overlapping the chamber with bricks, therefore the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks that cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the overlap for extracting vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to overlapping, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost solid, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work, you need 25 bricks. |
 | After that, a steel angle 45 × 45 × 905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, as it must withstand two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as the continuation of the ventilation duct, designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and 16 red bricks need to be prepared for laying. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the shown diagram. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. He is laid out according to the shown scheme. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a 190 × 340 mm metal plate is mounted on a small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the chimney ducts and drying chambers continue to rise. A cut-out is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet, into which a valve will be installed to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step on the prepared seat is a valve with a size of 140 × 140 mm. For this row, you need to prepare 17 red bricks. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are being combined. This row will require 15½ bricks to work on. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row, 15½ red bricks must be prepared. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the shown pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are overlapped with a steel corner measuring 45 × 45 × 905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 650 mm. The corner, laid on the front side of the drying chambers, is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet overlapping the chambers. |
 | On top of the steel strips and the corner, a sheet of metal 800 × 905 mm is laid. It covers the surface of cameras and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney channel, which will receive smoke from all other channels. A chimney will be erected above it. |
 | On the 27th row from the top sheet metal a solid brickwork is arranged. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the furnace section. For the laying of this row, 32 bricks are required. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond its limits by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row, 37 red bricks will be needed. |
 | Row 29 requires 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an inward indentation of 50 mm from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the kiln masonry is already the first row of the chimney overhead pipe. The row consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10 × 10 mm step is cut out - it will serve seat for a chimney damper, measuring 250 × 130 mm. Further on clay mortar the valve frame itself is also mounted. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Above, work will already go on the construction of a chimney. |
The lower diagram with a section of the structure of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that the hot streams of gases, thanks to the vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.
A comfortable, beautiful and functional stove is the dream of every summer resident. For all lovers of beds or rest in the country, the Malyutka stove was invented. Advantages of the baby hearth:
- compact size;
- Personal heat transfer ( 1700 kcal / hour);
- low fuel consumption, can be used chips and wood of poor quality, which is ideal for giving;
- Cooking;
- quick DIY erection: the first kindling can be done a couple of hours after laying (but not for long, with paper or chips);
- a light weight, the hearth does not require a foundation, but if you bake more minimum sizes, then it is better to make it a foundation.
The ordering of the oven is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself. Optimal dimensions for giving - height 1.9 m, width 0.75 m, depth 0.63 m.
To expand the possibilities, the Baby can be improved. Add cast iron stove, range hood, oven. She will become an indispensable assistant in the country, especially since the Baby oven is very profitable financially.
Operation tricks:
- If the hearth is idle for a long time during the cooking process, it is not necessary to preheat the oven. Begin cooking food it is better immediately when kindling, the heat will warm the stove and go through the pipe. The oven should not heat up.
- To prevent steam from the dishes from entering the room, when ordering, think over the hood.
- When using the oven, you can provide two modes - hot air goes through the channels to the oven, or the air enters through the ignition passage. In the second case, the temperature is higher, and it is possible to remove the samovar door.
Heating equipment formation
First of all, it is necessary to decide on the place where the Malyutka stove will be installed, as well as to prepare an accurate diagram with dimensions and order. General principles stoves are also suitable for the baby hearth. Installation is carried out at a safe distance from the walls ( about 25 cm.), the stove should not stand in a draft, and the chimney should not touch ceiling beams... The safety principles must be fully respected - walls, ceiling and floor are insulated with fire-resistant materials.
For the construction we need:
- (corpulent);
- fireclay brick (for the firebox);
- or cement M300;
- reinforcing rod;
- blower door;
- grate;
- furnace door (if you choose a glass door, then the baby can function as a fireplace);
- cast iron hob;
- gate valve.
Read also: Making a stove for a cauldron
Of the tools you need:
- trowel (leveling mortar, cutting seams);
- hammer and pickaxe (for bricks);
- level;
- Master OK;
- plumb line (weight with a cord) for checking angles;
- a rule (a wooden ruler with a cross section of 1.5 x 6 cm and a length of 1-1.5 m, having parallel planes) for the evenness of the masonry;
- roulette.
Foundation
For a solid multifunctional furnace, a foundation will be required, but a concrete one will be more economical. The pit must be at least 80x65 cm., formwork from boards is installed into it, covered with plywood or roofing material and poured with concrete. Next, a brick fight and a rubble stone are laid out, everything is poured with cement (ratio 1 to 3). The last step is to cover with insulation in several layers of roofing material.
For the strength of the foundation, it is better to install a reinforcing grid. Lay out six rods 50 cm long and six wide. The step should be approximately 10 cm, the joints are welded with electric arc welding. You will need two such lattices.