What is needed to repair the ceiling. DIY ceiling repair options

As you know, the repair of the ceiling should be approached with no less attention and care than to all other structures of a house or apartment. And this work is quite responsible and difficult. We have all faced such a situation more than once when the old finish becomes unusable, falls off, crumbles, cracks. And there can be many reasons for this.

But postponing the repair until later is not at all worth it, but it is better to get down to work as soon as possible. For this, you can hire a team of professionals, but the price of such services is usually very high. Therefore, self-repair of the ceiling is most often the best option, especially if you have some skills in construction works, and you are attentive to the advice and recommendations of experts.

In this article, we will tell you how to make a redecoration of the ceiling without spending extra money, effort and time.

Types of ceiling finishes: comparative characteristics, pros and cons

We are accustomed to believe that during the repair, first of all, it is carried out, and then - walls and floors, in this sequence. But modern technologies make it possible to break this tradition without harming the interior. For example, you can easily fix a ceiling tile or install a stretch ceiling without damaging the walls.

There are several types of ceiling repairs, which are quite simple to perform. We will consider them in detail to make it easier for you to choose the most suitable option.

  1. The first option is whitewashing, which has been used for many generations. It is chalky and limestone, among modern materials- completely ready for application. Its advantages include low price, resistance to temperature extremes and ease of application. The disadvantage is that the whitewash is short-lived: it crumbles, cracks and is afraid of moisture. In addition, you will have to carefully prepare the base for such a coating.
  2. The second option is painting. For this, there are many types of paints: glossy, acrylic, water-based, matte, latex and others. They are inexpensive, and the maintenance of the painted surface is quite simple. But for painting work you need experience, the paint eventually loses color and cracks, and the base will need to be prepared.
  3. The third option is to finish the ceiling with your own hands. For this, fabric, non-woven, or special wallpaper for the ceiling and for painting. This method is cheap, and also helps to visually level the surface. But wallpaper wears out quickly, and it is very difficult to glue them to the ceiling.
  4. The fourth option, very popular in last years- plasterboard ceiling. There are many types of such ceilings - single-level, multi-level, stepped, geometric and others. They are easy to install, do not require surface preparation, allow you to build in additional insulation and lighting... Among the disadvantages: drywall will close access to communications.

The main criterion for choosing the required material is in which room it will be applied. In the living room, bedroom, you can use any type of ceiling, and for the kitchen you will need a moisture-resistant material.

How to plaster the ceiling correctly

Ceiling plastering is an option that deserves special attention. This type of work is ideal if you need to quickly repair areas or remove some surface defects. For plastering you will need:

  • Putty knife;
  • Hard brush;
  • Wire brush;
  • Ladder;
  • Lighthouses;
  • Priming;
  • Putty.

Before proceeding, remove all furniture from the room to keep it from getting dusty, or cover with covers. Use a stiff brush to clean the places where the old one has crumbled, and remove the loose parts with a spatula or wire brush. Prime the surface with a deep primer in two to three coats at intervals of several hours to dry.

Prepare the required amount of putty and apply evenly on a completely dry ceiling, carefully smoothing the layer.

Tip: If you are plastering large areas, use beacons to keep the surface completely flat.

When the layer of plaster is completely dry, treat it with sandpaper or fine sandpaper. After that, you can paint the ceiling. can act as a base for painting, and as ready-made version, depending on the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling painting: we take into account all the little things

Since we have already plastered the ceiling, we can take a closer look at its painting. As mentioned above, painting the ceiling is well suited for rooms with high humidity - and the bathroom.

It is important to remember: painting the ceiling should be done before you start on the walls and floor, as it is quite time consuming and messy. Or try to isolate the surfaces from paint ingress as much as possible with plastic wrap.

So, to work you need the following:

  • primer;
  • putty;
  • gypsum solution;
  • sealant;
  • water-dispersion or water-based paint;
  • cement;
  • antiseptic;
  • brush;
  • sandpaper;
  • putty knife.

The surface is already prepared for further work... The only thing that can be added: if you paint the ceiling with your own hands in the bathroom or kitchen, be sure to treat it with an antiseptic before priming.

Putting on the ceiling, attach the gauze to the dry layer. It will serve as a reinforcing mesh that will prevent cracks. After drying, apply a primer and a fine-grained filler, this will get rid of minor irregularities.

And the last stage of work - apply paint to the ceiling with a brush or spray. Painting work completed.

Correct whitewashing of the ceiling with your own hands

Streaks and rust on the ceiling, loose plaster - all this can significantly spoil the interior of your home. But if you whitewash the ceiling correctly, then the room will become brighter, fresher and more comfortable. Whitewashing is perhaps the easiest way to make a ceiling with your own hands. To do this, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • chalk, or slaked lime;
  • if necessary - hydrochloric acid solution, denatured alcohol, copper sulfate;
  • joiner's glue;
  • blue;
  • laundry soap;
  • brush or brush;
  • roller (spray gun);
  • hammer and spatula.

Now we will consider step by step the process of working on whitewashing the ceiling with our own hands.

    1. First, rinse off the old whitewash layer with warm water using a brush or dry brush. If rusty spots are visible, wash them off and treat with vitriol. A solution of hydrochloric acid 2-3% will help from traces of smokiness. Cover furniture and wear protective clothing before handling acid.
    2. You can get rid of drips with this tool: mix lime gruel with synthetic linseed oil in a ratio of 20: 1, or stir lime with denatured alcohol in water until the consistency of milk. With this mixture, you need to paint over streaks at least 3 times.
    3. Knock off the loose plaster with a hammer, and fill all the cracks in the ceiling with plaster or lime mortar.
    4. After finishing the filler work, reinforce the gaps between the ceiling slabs, at windows, doors and in the corners. To do this, glue a strip of bandage on wood glue, or use a sticky serpentine. Sand the treated surface.
    5. Now prepare the soap maker. Take 40% laundry soap (200 g), cut it into small shavings and dissolve in 3 liters of boiling water. Stir vigorously. Pour in 100 g of drying oil. Pour this solution into lime slaked in water (2 kg per 5 l) and mix thoroughly. Cover the ceiling with this primer.
    6. After the surface is dry, it must be covered with 3 layers of lime mortar.

The recipe for the solution is as follows (based on 10 square meters): dissolve 90 g of wood glue, 2300 g of chalk, 17 g of blue, 60 g of laundry soap in 3-4 liters of water. Dissolve and stir until the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Repair of the ceiling with plasterboard: beautiful, functional, convenient

Why drywall so quickly gained popularity in modern construction market, and continues to hold it in relation to other materials? The answer is simple - it is absolutely universal.

Drywall is applicable in almost all finishing works. It is convenient in installation, and in processing it is so simple that it allows design imagination to unfold with might and main. Therefore, for a modern ceiling, drywall at the moment is perhaps the most suitable option.

A single-level plasterboard ceiling is usually installed to provide additional sound insulation. In multi-level ceilings, the design is much more complex, and due to this, they can be made curly, stepped, and equipped with additional lighting.

  1. First of all, you need to mark the surface of the ceiling around the perimeter. To do this, it is best to use laser level... The consumption of drywall and profiles depends on how correctly the measurements are made. Place marks at the points of attachment of the guides, and drill holes in these places with a puncher.
  2. Installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out in two types of profiles: guides and ceiling, or frame. Fix the horizontal profile along the marking line. Insert the dowels into the holes and fix the screws.
  3. Install the rack profile inside the resulting guides and secure it with self-tapping screws. It is at this stage that insulating and soundproofing material can be laid.
  4. After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed with securing the sheets. You will need an assistant for this, since the sheets are very large. Attach the plasterboard to the frame and start attaching it. Use for this special attachment on a screwdriver, it will help to tighten the screws to the desired level.
  5. Use a hacksaw to trim the drywall sheet where it sticks out. On the sheets of the first level, mark the borders of the second with a pencil. Attach the profiles and rails for the second level directly to the first layer. For a straight ceiling, use a two-level connector: it allows you to fix the levels one below the other.

As you can see, a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, even a multi-level one, is not a very difficult task.

DIY ceiling repair video


We have tried to give you, dear readers, as much as possible detailed recommendations on how to independently repair the ceiling in your home. As you can see, these methods are very simple to implement, but effective. We hope that our tips will help you, and we look forward to feedback, questions, comments in the comments. Good luck in your endeavors and easy work!

Renovation of ceilings in an apartment is an important undertaking. Let's figure out how to do it yourself - below you will find detailed description works required for the restoration of any type of ceiling.

Variety of design original ideas, the abundance of modern materials and interior styles make it possible to mount almost any ceiling structure in your home. Now in the apartments you can see multi-tiered complex ceilings, and really simple surfaces, the arrangement of which requires minimal financial investment. The most common are the following ceiling options:

  • with whitewash;
  • tension;
  • pasted over;
  • painted;
  • suspended.

All these surfaces have their own disadvantages and operational advantages, they differ from each other in many design and other features. The volume of labor costs required to restore the ceilings in the apartment, as well as the cost of the repair itself, depends on them.

Restoration of the ceiling in the apartment

A home craftsman, accustomed to doing everything with his own hands, can cope with any ceiling surface without much difficulty. He only needs to deal with the nuances of a particular technological process in order to perform high-quality repairs with minimal cost.

Full or partial recovery ceiling structures performed according to different schemes (it all depends on the type of ceilings). In this case, a number of operations must be performed without fail, regardless of which surface you have to repair. Such procedures usually include cleaning the ceiling, leveling and priming it, restoring seams and gaps, and some other do-it-yourself work.

Removal of the old coating from the ceiling structure should be carried out as carefully as possible. If the ceiling has been plastered with a lime-based mixture, whitewashed or pasted over with wallpaper, it is not difficult to clean it. You need to purchase a roller for painting works, immerse it in warm water, squeeze it lightly and then roll it simple tool part of the ceiling surface. Moreover, the first passes should be done lightly, pressing the roller stronger and stronger with each subsequent rolling.

This processing of the ceiling must be done until you see that the instrument is dry. After that, wet the roller again with water and move on to the next area of ​​the surface. Thus, it is recommended to process 2-3 square meters ceiling and immediately start cleaning this small piece using a normal trowel. With its help, you can clean off to putty without any difficulties either concrete base any old coating, be it plaster, wallpaper or whitewash.

If there is an "ancient" putty layer under the finish, it must be checked for adhesion strength. Just try to peel off the putty with a spatula. If it flakes and crumbles, you will have to completely remove it. And then apply a fresh putty coat. When the old putty is held firmly, you can leave it alone and repair the ceiling on the existing coating.

The surfaces on which the polystyrene tiles or decorative elements are mounted are best cleaned with a spatula with a high hardness blade made of steel. It removes both old finish and used adhesive well. Particles of glue must be removed completely, otherwise do-it-yourself repairs will not bring the expected results.

Surface cleaning with a trowel with a hard blade

Surfaces painted with water based paint or oil paint are most difficult to clean. In this case, the old coating is removed chemically or mechanically.

For dry cleaning, a special wash is used. It is sold in any hardware store. You will need to saturate the old coating with this composition, wait 10-12 hours (during this time, the paint will soften well) and then remove the unnecessary layer.

The mechanical method of removing paint involves the use of sandpaper or a spatula. The process will take a long time, the operation is considered very time consuming. But it will have to be brought to the end, achieving the ideal cleanliness of the ceiling surface.

As you yourself understand, there is no need to clean the ceiling surface when you are dealing with a room where the builders have just completed repairs. In this case, there is simply no old coating. You immediately need to move on to the procedures for sealing cracks and priming the surface.

If you need to do the repair of tension or suspended structures with your own hands, you need to dismantle and disassemble them. In this case, all work should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the product. Then you can repair the disassembled ceiling in the apartment, replace it individual elements etc.

After removing the old coating with your own hands, you can start filling all the gap and joints with gypsum or plaster composition (it is advisable to use ready-made mixtures), and then priming. The ceiling is treated with a deep primer, which perfectly strengthens the substrate and provides a good adhesion rate. Apply the primer with a brush or paint roller.

The next step is to plaster or putty the ceiling. It is easy to perform any of these operations with your own hands. The specific surface treatment technique should be chosen wisely. Remember that the use of filler compounds guarantees a flawlessly even ceiling with minimum weight and a thin layer of leveling compound. More plaster is always required, it “eats up” several centimeters of the room's height. But it is much easier for a home craftsman to work with it. Almost any person can perform high-quality plastering.

Ceiling filling

Ceilings are putty according to the following scheme:

  1. Treat the surface with a "rough" putty if, after removing the old layer and applying a primer, there are tangible differences in height and deep potholes on it. You need to fully align the ceiling. Therefore, the filler layer can be up to 50 millimeters thick. All work is done with a rule or a wide spatula.
  2. Place the masking net on the filler (no need to wait until it is completely dry) and press this structure with a spatula.
  3. Wait for the layer to dry and proceed to finishing the surface (use any putty suitable for this purpose). Then it is recommended to process the ceiling with sandpaper floats (they are sold in specialized stores for builders). Their use guarantees a perfectly flat ceiling covering.

Plastering can be done with your own hands like this:

  1. At a distance of about 20 cm from the wall, mark a point for the guide. We make a similar indent on the other side of the ceiling. Draw a line between the two marked points with a paint thread. Then you step back 100-125 cm from it and again do the markup according to the already described algorithm.
  2. Now you need to make holes for the fasteners (if you have a drill, the operation is performed without difficulty).
  3. Fasten the guides with universal screws. Here it is important to achieve their location in the same plane and strictly horizontally. All work is carried out with a building level. Feel free to adjust the height of the guides by screwing or unscrewing the screws used.
  4. Fix the guides firmly with a thick plaster.
  5. Wait for the solution to dry.
  6. Apply plaster in the space between the guides, level the mortar with a metal rule.
  7. Allow the composition to dry, after which you can start finishing the ceiling with a new coating.

A simple way to give an attractive look to the ceilings in an apartment is whitewashing. The whitewashed surface is in harmony with almost any interior design. Such repairs are performed with quicklime. It must be diluted with water, filtered through a sieve and used as directed. Work is carried out with a vacuum cleaner, roller or spray gun.

Note that the whitewash stays on the ceiling for 1–2 years. And then you will need to repair it again - to update the surface. At the same time, the costs for the whitewash composition are minimal.

Whitewashing the ceiling space

Painting them is considered an inexpensive option for restoring ceilings. This repair method is more practical. Experts advise using it to restore surfaces in bathrooms and kitchens. Painting in the overwhelming majority of cases is made with oil and water-based paints. They need to be mixed well and applied to the ceiling with a brush and roller mounted on a bar.

Always start painting with a brush at the edges of the ceiling. After that, it is better to apply a roller, painting over the rest of the surface. When redecorating a painted ceiling, you can clean the areas where there is swollen or peeling paint with a spatula, and then apply a new composition to them.

Old ceiling structures can be repaired with tiles. This recovery method is quite popular. You will need acrylic special adhesive and tiles directly. The work is carried out as follows:

  1. Mark the center of the ceiling, from this point you need to start fixing the tiles.
  2. Apply acrylic mixture to the edges of the tiles and to their central part. Glue the tile and press it lightly.
  3. If excess parts remain at the edges, cut off unnecessary pieces of tile with a knife.
  4. In the corners of the ceiling, glue curbs or skirting boards to give the structure a finished look.

All described works can be performed by one person. But you won't be able to cover the ceiling with wallpaper yourself. We'll have to call an assistant. The scheme of such repair work is as follows:

  1. Dilute (according to the manufacturer's instructions) the glue.
  2. Cut off 2-3 pieces of wallpaper from the total roll, process them with an adhesive (use a brush), wait a couple of minutes (the glue should be absorbed into the material).
  3. Apply adhesive mixture to the ceiling surface.
  4. Fold a piece of wallpaper into an accordion and glue it, gradually unwinding.
  5. Use a roller to smooth out a piece of canvas.
  6. Remove excess glue with a cloth dampened in water and wrung out.

Renovation work completed!

The ceiling is one of the most important functional spaces of any room, which means that, like the walls and floor, it needs periodic repairs. Its frequency will depend primarily on the timeliness of cleaning, as well as on the desire to change the owners of the premises. Ceiling repair is a very simple task, you can do it yourself, you just need to choose the right color and type of finish, and then it's up to the little.

Peculiarities

Features of the ceiling repair will be primarily determined by the choice of material for decoration.

When choosing a material, you must be guided by the main aspects.

  • The type of house to be renovated. The choice of material and aspects of renovation will differ in a private house and in a panel nine-story building, a studio apartment in a new house and in a room in a Khrushchev building.
  • The choice of material will also directly depend on the amount that is planned to be spent on repair work, since all materials have different costs and require different investments.

  • In addition, the initial condition of the ceiling base will affect the progress of the renovation. If it has many cracks and irregularities, you will first need to level the surface for applying paint or wallpaper.
  • In addition, it is also important to decide on who exactly will be involved in the repair. If you plan to carry out repairs on your own, you can count on a fairly limited range of materials and types of finishes. With the involvement of masters, this circle is somewhat expanding.

The types of ceiling structures can be divided into two large groups. The first of these is the so-called main ceilings, when Finishing work pass directly on the rough basis. In this case, paint, wallpaper or textured plaster, you can also carry out whitewashing work. A large group of suspended structures also stands out. This includes all stretch ceilings, regardless of material and color, all suspended and panel structures, as well as all plasterboard ceilings, which are attached at some distance from the rough base.

The choice of material that will be used for finishing the ceiling will be determined by the purpose of the room, its dimensions and functionality... So, for example, for the bathroom, the most common options are slatted ceilings, they can be made of various moisture-resistant materials, and also be absolutely different colors... In addition, sheets of waterproof cardboard can be an excellent solution for the bathroom, which can later be plastered, painted or covered with plastic panels of any suitable color. This design is not only very convenient and practical, but also looks quite aesthetically pleasing and beautiful. In addition, this type of repair work can be done by hand without the involvement of specialists.

For an office or any other public space, suspended ceilings are most often used. They are very convenient because they have a long service life and are not subject to contamination. In addition, since this type of repair involves the use of individual tiles of different colors, if necessary, individual elements can be replaced at any time, and it is quite possible to hide an abundance of office wires inside the structure.

In the rooms of residential apartments, the system of stretch ceilings is increasingly used. This is a very convenient option that does not require any effort at all to level the base, since the canvas is located at some distance. The fabric is used both matte and glossy of any color and texture. The advantage of this type of ceiling covering is that in case of possible flooding from above, such a ceiling will not allow water to enter the apartment, it will collect on the fabric, and if a special valve is installed, the water can be easily drained. However, it is better to entrust the installation of such a coating to specialists, otherwise a disruption of the technological process is possible, which will entail an incorrect installation, and subsequently a reduced service life.

The total time spent on repairs will also depend on the choice of coverage. For example, whitewashing or painting can take several times longer than a stretch ceiling, however, the cost will be strikingly different. So, for finishing 1 sq. meter of surface on average can be spent from 200 to 4000 rubles.

Materials (edit)

A variety of materials for finishing today offers many possible options... Each material will have its own cost, suitable for various premises, as well as have a different service life and different complexity of installation.

One of the cheapest and easiest to apply options is paint. and various blends for whitewashing. Painting does not change the height of the ceiling, unlike tension or hinged structures, in addition, depending on the type of paint, painting can be carried out in rooms that are different for the purpose, including in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

The service life of such a finish will also depend on the type of paint, since different kinds may have varying degrees of sun exposure. Humidity in the room can also shorten the life of some coatings, and light versions of certain paints can simply quickly become dirty. Thus, a properly selected dyeing mixture can serve up to 10 years without any complaints before its renewal is required.

The most popular today are water-based paint, as well as lime or chalk whitewash... The popularity of these coatings is due to their environmental friendliness, ease of application, the absence of an unpleasant chemical odor, and also a short drying time. In addition, these materials can be tinted in any desired color. This can be done either independently, by purchasing a special tinting paste, or by contacting a specialist in any large hardware store. However, when choosing between whitewashing and water-based painting, it is worth remembering that the paint is still a more resistant and durable material, it eliminates peeling and yellowing, which cannot be avoided during service when using lime and coated solutions.

When choosing a finishing method such as painting, it is better to take care of leveling the surface in advance, you can use plaster, attach drywall to the ceiling or stick fiberglass.

You can decorate the ceiling using of various types wallpaper. Such options, of course, are more suitable for rooms with low traffic and normal temperature conditions with normal humidity. Wallpaper can be perfect for a bedroom or living room.

There are several types of wallpaper that are suitable for decoration.

  • Paper- the cheapest coverage option. When choosing paper, it should be borne in mind that they are completely unsuitable for wet rooms, have a short service life, quickly get dirty and fade.

  • Vinyl. Such wallpapers can be paper-based or non-woven, they are more durable, however, given their weight, the correct pasting of the ceiling can require quite serious efforts. Due to the moisture-resistant structure, such wallpaper can be wiped with a damp cloth, which allows you to extend the life of the coating and keep it intact for a longer period.
  • Non-woven. Such wallpapers have a dense structure and a fairly large weight. It is necessary to choose the right glue and carefully coat the canvases and ceiling. Non-woven wallpaper can be made in different colors, as well as just white. If you wish, you can paint them in any color you like.

Another fairly common option that does not require special equipment and special skills for self-installation is to use ceiling panels... Such panels are made of lightweight foam or expanded polystyrene. This option will help create an unusual stucco effect. In addition to panels, caissons can be used. Most often they are made of wood. There is also a plastic analogue of this material for decorating the ceiling group. However, this option is more acceptable for rooms with fairly high ceilings.

All stretch ceilings are fabric with special impregnation or PVC film of various thicknesses and colors. The fixing of such a ceiling is always carried out using a metal frame. The profile, which is most often made of an aluminum alloy, is installed around the perimeter of the room, subsequently the ceiling material is stretched onto it.

Another finishing option is to fix MDF or plastic panels over the entire area of ​​the ceiling space. Such panels are easy to clean, they are not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, which means they can be used in the bathroom, in addition, today you can find a huge range of colors of this type of coating on sale. It can imitate various materials, such as stone, wood, tiles.

Design

The choice of ceiling space design is one of the most important aspects to create ideal room... The correct selection of material, and most importantly, the design of the ceiling will help you get the most harmonious and comfortable room.

However, the choice of design will depend not only on the personal preferences of the owners, but also, first of all, on the purpose of the space itself. The way it will be used dictates the choice of materials and, of course, design.

When choosing options for finishing the kitchen, you must always remember that this room is always high humidity, temperature drops and an increased possibility of fire. Splashes, dirty spots are possible here, dust and grease deposits cannot be avoided. Therefore, the choice of finishing will be influenced by the possibility of washing it. An easy-to-clean surface of the ceiling and walls will be the best option for the kitchen. The most suitable coating options for the kitchen would be waterproof drywall, plastic panels, stretch ceilings and slatted covering.

In addition, in the kitchen it is worth giving up the abundant decor, since it is usually the most difficult to remove dirt from it. The best option would be a smooth decorative ceiling. light color, in this case, it is better if it is a matte coating option, since all dirt on the gloss will be more noticeable. If desired, you can supplement it with built-in lighting. Interesting placement spotlights can become the main decoration of the kitchen, create a unique design and add volume and air to the space.

When planning the design of the ceiling in the bedroom, it is worth considering the main purpose of this room. The bedroom is intended for relaxation, which means that you should not use too bright aggressive colors in the design. It is better to give preference to something pastel or vice versa, deeper and darker. In addition, the bedroom is exactly the room where you can use any material for decoration. Stretch ceilings and wallpaper are appropriate here, and even paint or whitewash will harmoniously fit into general interior... However, it is better to stick to matte finishes without prints. Textured plaster or wallpaper with convex textures would also be an excellent option.

If enough light enters the bedroom from the windows, you can give preference to dark shades: black, deep blue, burgundy, emerald. But darker and too small rooms from dark colors can visually become even smaller, so it is better to take into account the lighter pastel shades and create an interior based on them.

If necessary, zoning space, you can pay attention to coverings with pictures. So, for example, large floral prints will look good in the area of ​​the window opening, while it will have to turn into a light monochromatic cover. Also, the print can be placed above the bed. This will visually highlight it and create a very interesting effect.

A ceiling imitating a starry sky can also be an excellent solution for a bedroom. To create this effect, there is great amount options - from drawing stars with luminescent paint to installing small LEDs directly into the ceiling surface.

For the ceiling in the living room, multilevel options with recessed spotlights and a dimensional chandelier in the center of the room are the most relevant. However, with all the love for multi-level ceilings, the coating is still most often chosen to be monochromatic, one that can be easily cleaned if necessary and which will visually expand the space. Or 2 colors are used that are in harmony with each other as much as possible.

In addition, if options with matt ceilings, then glass or glossy surfaces are quite appropriate for the living room. If you choose the right general decoration of the room, such a ceiling will look quite appropriate and harmonious.

There is another type of premises in which the correct selection of material and design of the ceiling covering is extremely important - this is an entrance hall and a bathroom. Here it is imperative to stop the choice on moisture-resistant coatings that are not afraid wet cleaning... Panels, tiles, slats or stretch ceilings will become the most suitable option... As for the choice of color, it will directly depend on the dimensions of the room and the wishes of the consumer. The surface is also better to use matte, however, mirror options are not uncommon lately.

Project

Before proceeding with the design of the ceiling, it is recommended to draw up a design project. This procedure is especially relevant when creating multi-level options. And this means that before creating a project, you need to decide on the type and material of the coating, plan the approximate location of the light elements. With the help of such a plan, you can not only visually represent the future ceiling, but also correctly calculate the amount of materials required for repairs.

Before creating a plan, it is necessary to measure the room and calculate the total ceiling area. To do this, you need to multiply the length by the width. Based on this area, it is necessary to sketch the plan of the future ceiling on the right scale. This will be the base drawing from which further design will be born.

After the scaled base plan has been created, you can proceed to sketching the design, recreating the future real version. So, if necessary, steps are drawn, if we are talking about a multi-stage design, or the location of patterns and various color transitions is noted. On the basis of this plan, in the future, the total amount of material that will be needed for the implementation of a particular project will be calculated.

The next step is the layout of the lighting elements, their exact number and layout, if spotlights are used, or just placement points if single light sources are used that cannot be turned into a drawing. With multi-stage placement, it is better to create a lighting plan for each stage, so it will be more convenient to mount them in the future.

As for lighting, it is advisable to create a separate project for the placement of all wiring, because internal organization and installation is also sufficient important aspect when carrying out repair work.

When creating plans, it is better to trust the interior design specialists, however, you can independently create the most complete and convenient plan that will facilitate the repair.

Number of levels

If during the renovation there is a need to diversify the entourage of the room, then there is no better solution than a multi-level ceiling.

Moreover, if you choose drywall as the main material, then the installation of a two-level ceiling can be done with your own hands and at minimal cost, as a result, you will get a zest for the space.

At the heart of the multi-level design, no matter how trite it may seem, is an ordinary frame, which is firmly fixed to the ceiling as well as to the walls at the desired height. Most often, a metal profile is used as a base, it is he who is the most durable and easy-to-use material. Alternatively, you can use a wooden base. It is somewhat cheaper, but it is inferior in strength and service life.

The first level of the ceiling is formed by sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets. Correct installation the first level is the most an important milestone in the installation, since if it is planned to place spotlights in the steps, then all the wiring must hide in this first level. Until subsequent levels, only wires will be carried out, to which the lighting elements themselves will be directly attached.

If a two-level ceiling is planned, then the already familiar frame for the second stage is attached to the fully sheathed first level, and drywall of the second level is distributed to it, similarly to the first.

Two-level ceilings can have completely different arrangements and can imitate semicircular steps or steps with right angles, create various geometric shapes and patterns, and complemented by spotlights, they will add even more charm and attractiveness to the room. Most often, the second and third steps do not occupy the entire perimeter of the ceiling, but fill only a certain part of it, so here a pre-created plan-diagram of the location of the steps will come to the rescue.

A feature of the second step and, if necessary, subsequent steps is that, in addition to the base, it is necessary to sheathe the side space of the step with plasterboard. This technique is used to hide the wiring and other internal components of the ceiling.

Tiered ceilings are most often installed in the bedroom, dining room or living room., because it is these spaces that usually have the most impressive dimensions, and multi-level structures look best and unfold precisely in spacious rooms with a sufficient height of the rough ceiling.

For different rooms

A ceiling design project may have its own special rules, depending on the purpose of the room and on the type of house. So, the project of a bedroom in "Khrushchev" can be quite different from the same project in a panel house. The consumption of materials will be different, the measurements of typical rooms will also differ, the presence or absence load-bearing walls will also dictate the possibility of installing a particular coating.

So, for example, the hallway is usually quite small overall dimensions, which is important to take into account when creating drawings and selecting material. If a multi-level ceiling option was chosen, it can be used to divide the space into two zones - one will be closer to the door, the second will extend the hallway space. And if this division into zones is supplemented with zoning when decorating walls, you can get a rather interesting end result. Choosing suitable colors, it is better to stay on white or any other light paint, which will help not only not to distract from interesting design, but also visually expand the hallway.

A bathroom with a small size is extremely whimsical to materials and to a lighting device. All wires must be ideally insulated from contact with water, and the ceiling material must be selected with high rate hydro protection. He should not be afraid of water, condensation and temperature changes. Otherwise, mold and mildew may form, which are very difficult to get rid of later. Various tiles and plastic panels are ideal here. When choosing a color, you should pay attention to white, all shades of blue, blue, green, sandy and soft peach color is also popular.

Without exaggeration, the most close attention should be paid to the choice of a ceiling project in the bedroom, because it is this ceiling that a person sees most often, as a person spends most of the time in the bedroom lying on the bed. One of the most common and simple solutions there was and remains the "starry sky". With the help of LEDs, a model of the sky with stars is embodied in the room. This option not only looks very beautiful, but also forms a natural night light right on the ceiling.

An important advice in the case of selecting projects for several rooms at once is that for each room it is necessary to create individual design project, and only then it will be possible to get a truly unique and interesting end result when creating an interior.

Work technology

Ceiling finishing technology may vary depending on the original surface finish. In addition, the initial surface treatment for finishing will depend on how long the renovation is planned to be maintained. If a long service life is not required, the preparatory phase can be shortened.

Ceiling finishing technology includes several stages.

  • Development of a plan-scheme according to the type of ceiling, shape, color solutions, placement of wiring and fixtures.
  • Preparation of the base for the installation of the ceiling finish directly. This stage may include dismantling the old coating, leveling the surfaces, sanding, priming and other manipulations to prepare the base for the coating. If the ceiling has been painted with oil paint, the recoating will be the most difficult. Other paint will not fit on such a base, therefore, to change the surface, you will have to apply a fresh layer of the same oil paint or completely get rid of the existing layer. In addition, complete dismantling must be carried out on the basis of wallpaper. Experts do not recommend sticking several layers of wallpaper, since an unnecessarily heavy structure will simply pull them away from the ceiling.
  • Directly the installation of the selected structure.

It is worth considering the main stages of finishing in more detail.

The main stage in the repair is surface preparation. This stage must be approached very carefully, since the convenience of subsequent finishing and the service life of the coating will largely depend on the initial preparation.

Preparation usually takes place in several stages. The very first step is to isolate the walls and floor from the ingress of building materials, if they are not planned to be updated. Then the most difficult stage follows. It includes removing the old cover, if any. It is necessary to get rid of old wallpaper, oil-based coatings, for example, oil paints, whitewash layers. To remove paint, you can use special removers, which can be purchased at hardware stores. Their cost is low, but they will help save time and effort for other repair work.

If the repair is carried out in a room with high humidity, it is possible that fungus can be found on the ceiling and walls. If, upon careful examination of the surface, black-brown spots are found, it is urgent to get rid of them with the help of special antifungal agents, which can also be purchased at hardware stores. You can protect yourself from this problem if you add a special agent against the fungus to the material used, which is an excellent prevention of the secondary appearance and spread of the virus. If the lesions are too large and deeply embedded in the concrete, then you can remove it with a perforator or gouge it out with a special tool, and then go through the plaster, covering the holes.

Another important step in the preparation process is to check the surface for evenness. This can be done using a building level, which will show the degree of relief of the ceiling. For capricious coatings such as ceiling panels or, if necessary, glue thin paper wallpaper it is necessary to level the surface with a special finishing plaster... Alignment may require additional cuts of the plaster mesh, which will help to avoid delamination of the plaster mix.

After leveling the ceiling, it is necessary to fix the surface with another thin layer of finishing putty, and then walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling with a primer, which will help get rid of unnecessary dust and improve the adhesion of the finish and the rough ceiling.

At the same stage and in the case of choosing a multi-level ceiling, you can fix the frame or box, which will be the basis for the fasteners.

Mounting

After the preparatory stage is completed, it will be possible to proceed directly to the installation of the ceiling. You can repair the ceiling in completely different ways. Installation methods will depend on the selected material. So, the wallpaper will simply be glued to the primed surface with the appropriate glue for their type. In order to glue the wallpaper, you do not need any superpowers, so this type of installation will also not cause difficulties. The paint is also applied over the primer. Each of her words should dry out as much as possible before another layer lies on top of it.

It is better to entrust the installation of suspended and stretch ceilings to specialists., but plasterboard ceilings can be made with your own hands. The step-by-step installation will look like this. Everything will start with preparatory work. The surface must be leveled and free of dust. Grinding can help here. Further, it is important to carefully prime the surface, to make markings at those points where in the future it will be possible to fasten the guides for the frame. Next comes the fastening stage. In this case, the installation of the frame for the ceiling takes place. The design will be different and will depend on the type of the chosen ceiling - it will be multi-level or regular even.

After the frame has been successfully attached, it is important to slowly, slowly, step by step fasten the drywall sheets over the base. The first layer is necessary to sheathe the entire ceiling, then, if desired, you can fix another frame and create multilevel structure... You can decorate it with spotlights, easily hiding the wires in the first level of the structure.

  • For various premises it is necessary to choose the most suitable material and the type of ceiling covering. So, for example, for rooms with high humidity such as baths and toilets, materials with waterproofing are in the first place.
  • The first stage installation works it is imperative to create a design project that will help not only correctly place all the guides and the selected type of material, but also correctly calculate its required amount.

  • If you want to make a stretch ceiling, it is better to use the services of specialists. The installer will help you carry out the preparatory work and directly install the desired surface.
  • The cheapest repair option is whitewashing and papering.
  • When choosing a color scheme, you must focus on the size and purpose of the room. So, for small rooms it is better not to choose dark shades, but for finishing large bedrooms they may well be suitable.
  • Textures on light wallpaper and light textured plaster will help to add light to the space.

  • To work, you must have the following tools: a perforator and dowels with screws, a level, a stepladder, a hacksaw for metal, a spatula, squares for measuring angles.
  • Installation of a stretch ceiling is not recommended when the room temperature is less than 40 degrees.
  • Frame installation for all types suspended structure it is best to start from the corner that is closer to the doorway.
  • Among the range of stretch ceilings, there are three types of surface: matte, satin and glossy. It is best to choose the type of surface based on personal preference and the purpose of the room. So, for the living room and bedroom, you can pick up glossy surfaces, but in the kitchen it is better to pick up a matte or satin ceiling.

  • Installing any type of false ceiling will help hide small irregularities or scratches on the ceiling surface.
  • The lifespan of the ceiling will depend on the type of room as well as the material chosen. On average, it can take up to 10 years between repairs.
  • An excellent addition to suspended ceilings will be the use of recessed spotlights .. Also, you cannot do without such fixtures when creating popular design starry sky.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Examples of beautiful ceilings in the bedroom.

Multilevel ceilings.

The final stage of apartment renovation - finishing work is carried out from top to bottom, unless it is a spot repair of the cladding. The repair of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out first, not because it is the most visible of the enclosing structures, but in connection with the inevitable pollution in the process of finishing all the bases located below. However, finishing ceiling base often falls into disrepair before the wall and floor cladding - the ceiling, although not subject to abrasion, like a floor covering, but brightly shows on its surface the effects of other negative factors - deformations and vibration of the building, leaks from above, pollution. Therefore, the repair of ceilings in an apartment is sometimes carried out more often than finishing other enclosing structures, that is, not as part of a large-scale renovation of the interior of a house, but as an operation that can be performed independently - when protecting against damage to the wall and floor cladding. Accordingly, the need for frequent performance of this type of work forces, in order to save money, to make repairs to the ceiling with your own hands.

Consider how to repair the ceiling in the most common situations and in the most affordable ways.

Types of ceiling repair

There are many types of finishing ceilings, and making repairs in an apartment with your own hands can mean both the restoration of the existing finish and the device of cladding using a different technology.

When planning to repair the ceiling with your own hands, you need to take into account several factors: the feasibility of using the selected repair technology in specific conditions, the budget of the operation and the compliance of the level of your practical skills with the finishing method. If to optimal combination these circumstances add quality material, then success is assured.

Let's list the most common types of finish:

  • whitewashing or painting;
  • finishing with polyurethane or polystyrene foam tiles;
  • pasting with wallpaper or self-adhesive films;
  • siding cladding;
  • stretch ceiling;
  • finishing ceramic tiles;
  • dropped ceilings.

Most of the listed technologies, in addition to finishing with ceramics, are possible for execution both directly on the enclosing structure and on the shell mounted on the frame. That is, the repair of ceiling bases is carried out both without using a frame, and using a frame method - the choice of technology depends on the operating conditions, the planned level of manufacturability of finishing, the professional skills of the performer and the budget.

Requirements for finishing ceiling bases

Depending on the operating conditions, the requirements for finishing the ceilings of rooms with different functionality may differ, but there are a number of general properties that the lining of ceiling surfaces in an apartment or a private house should have:

  • security;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • sufficient durability.

Naturally, in addition to the listed characteristics, the ceiling covering must have heat, hydro, steam and noise insulation properties, resistance to ultraviolet and bacteria, aesthetics and ease of daily maintenance, but the required degree of compliance with these requirements depends on the specific operating conditions.

Preparation of ceiling surfaces for various repair methods

Ceiling repair technologies require appropriate preparation of the base. Not only the aesthetics of the final result, but also the functionality of the finish depends on the quality of the preparatory work, therefore, we will consider the methods of surface preparation with reference to a specific cladding method. Let's start with the work that needs to be done on the concrete ceiling base before any repairs.

Revision and cleaning of the ceiling

The ceiling plane is tapped with a hammer to identify areas with peeled plaster and putty.

Removing the emulsion paint layer

If no defective plastered areas are found, and the planned finishing is whitewashing or painting, then they begin to remove the old paint - as a rule, this is a water-based composition, since concrete in residential premises is not covered with oil or enamel.

The ceiling is moistened with water several times to soak the paint to the point where it can be easily removed in layers with a spatula. On the ceiling, wetting is easier to perform with a spray gun; in the absence of this device, a paint roller is used, preferably a foam one.

Removing worn out plaster

When identifying plaster layers that have lost adhesion to the base, defective coatings are cut off with a hammer, chisel and spatula. If the plaster remaining on the concrete crumbles during scraping, it must also be removed, even if it is planned to install stretch ceilings - a fallen fragment of the old finish, if it does not damage the decorative shell, will be visible on the outside. Ideally, it is best to remove all old layers from the floor slabs so that the new leveling coating is uniform in all areas of application.

If there is bare reinforcement under the exfoliated solution, then it is cleaned of corrosion to a pure metal and covered with two layers of a solution of iron or lead red lead in drying oil.

Important! It is not allowed to cut out the bare reinforcement - it is in the preliminary tense state, and removing even one section will lead to a change in the stress balance in the slab.

Cleaning of seams between slabs and opening cracks

After dismantling the plaster, inspect the quality of the longitudinal joints of the slabs and the joints between the walls and the ceiling. As a rule, old filling materials have to be removed to the entire available seam depth - this is conveniently done with a narrow and long chisel or a hammer drill.

Cracks in the concrete slabs are examined for orientation and future exposure. Longitudinal and diagonal cracks are not dangerous, transverse cracks are best shown to the experts of the construction department of the local government. To study the dynamics of damage, control beacons made of paper or plaster mix are installed on them with an indication of the installation date.

Repair of a concrete base

After all worn-out coatings have been removed from the floor slabs, they begin to repair and seal the ceiling base.

Sealing joints between slabs

If the depth of the slots exceeds 3 cm, then it is better to seal them up. polyurethane foam- an elastic and sealing compound that perfectly replaces in this situation cement mixtures.

To do this, the joints are blown with a stream of air or cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner, after which they inner surfaces moistened with water - the adhesion of the polyurethane foam to wet surfaces is higher.

To seal the joints of the slabs, it is advisable to use a proven type of foam, which, after hardening, forms a dense, homogeneous fine-cellular mass. The guide nozzle of the foam cartridge is inserted into the slot until it stops, and by pressing the dispenser, the seam is filled to 2/3 of the depth.

Important! During operation, the cylinder must be positioned upside down, otherwise the gas will come out of it without the formation of foam.

After a day, excess foam is removed with a clerical knife. If a frame or frameless installation of heat and sound insulation is planned over the concrete base, then the foam is cut flush with the surface. If the surface is to be leveled with mixtures, then the excess is trimmed in such a way that 1.5-2.0 cm remains on top of the cut to the level of the slab - for applying the cement mixture.

If the width and depth of the slots at the junction of the walls with the ceiling allows, they can also be sealed with polyurethane foam. If the cracks are narrow, they are filled with a sealant using an assembly syringe or moisture resistant tile adhesive based on cement.

Ceiling potholes filling

If, when dismantling the old plaster, areas with punctate delamination of concrete from the floor slabs have formed, then they are primed with a latex-based composition and, after drying, the following actions are performed:

Waterproofing concrete ceiling

Anyone who has ever done repairs to the ceiling after a leak, at the end of all the work described above, will definitely waterproof the ceiling base. This can be most effectively done using waterproofing compounds of deep penetration, for example, "Penetron", "VodoStop" or "Lakhta", which, when they enter the defective concrete cavities, seal them and, upon contact with water, initiate crystal formation in their mass with the growth of crystals towards the entrance moisture.

After complete curing and drying of the repair cement compositions, the surface of the ceiling is abundantly moistened with water (until the absorption stops) and, using a brush, roller or spatula, is covered with two layers of penetrating waterproofing, which is prepared by mixing the dry mixture with water according to the instructions for use or sold ready-to-use. After the insulating coating has dried, the substrate is suitable for applying any other leveling or insulating compound.

Effective waterproofing the ceiling can also be made in a more budgetary way - by applying a bitumen-based composition, but bitumen in the coating composition imposes restrictions on the subsequent use of leveling mixtures - an additional base of plasterboard or expanded polystyrene will have to be mounted on top of such waterproofing.

In the production of waterproofing of the ceiling base, operations are completed that are mandatory before any finishing of the ceiling surface made of concrete is completed. The subsequent types of work depend on the operating conditions of the room and the choice of the method for decorating the ceiling.

Basic alignment methods for concrete ceilings

The order in which the ceiling base alignment procedure is performed depends on a number of factors, including the planned functionality of the ceiling finish. For example, if it is necessary to perform thermal insulation, then you should decide what kind of insulation will be used. Installation of rigid types of foam on the ceiling is possible in a frameless way, but the concrete base should not have a height difference of more than 5 mm - the foam sheets will repeat the surface profile defects, and the finishing will have to be done after unwanted additional leveling, which will significantly weigh it down.

If you choose as insulation soft material(one of the types of cotton wool), then in most cases you will have to mount a frame with an additional outer shell to lay it. But at the same time, the frame method of insulation eliminates the need to carry out further - an additional base mounted on the frame in the horizontal plane will hide the defects of the concrete surface.

Important! Stone (basalt) wool is produced in varying degrees of rigidity, and its more rigid varieties still allow the insulation to be mounted in a frameless way, followed by plastering on a reinforcing mesh.

In the absence of the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling (if this is done effectively enough on the floors of apartments), you can start leveling the ceiling base in one of the following ways.

Plastering the concrete ceiling

Plaster is a time-tested and relatively budgetary way of leveling concrete and brick foundations for finishing. If the ceiling slabs in the room have significant differences in height (up to 5 cm), then one of the ways to bring them to a common horizontal level is plastering with cement-sand mortar.

Without the skills to perform this type of work, especially finishing the ceilings, one should not undertake its own implementation, especially over a large area. You can throw it with your own hands with a cement-sand mortar and, after setting it, wipe small potholes in the plaster. Plastering of the entire surface of the ceiling should be entrusted to professionals, having previously waterproofed the concrete base with a penetrating mixture. At the same time, it is useful to know the technology for performing plastering in order to control the quality of this type of finish:

Important! Curing of the completed plaster coating should take place without drafts and additional heat sources (heating devices); within 5 days, starting from the third, the plastered surface must be moistened.

Leveling the ceiling with leveling compounds

This method differs from plastering with material and execution technology - instead of a cement-sand mortar, dry leveling mixtures based on cement are used, which, after mixing with water, are applied to the concrete surface with a spatula.

The advantage of the method lies in the simplicity of preparation of the composition, which does not require compliance with the proportions of the components, sifting and has increased adhesion. The mixture, prepared according to the instructions on the package, is easily applied to the ceiling with a spatula and at the same time does not break down from the base as easily as it happens with a cement-sand mortar. Leveling cement mixtures are produced in many varieties, differing in characteristics or their numerical values- the degree of elasticity and tensile strength, waterproofing properties, the strength of adhesion of the "living solution" and its "life time". A wide range of these materials allows you to choose a composition that suits specific operating conditions and save on buying a universal mixture, the price of which is always higher precisely because of its versatility.

Ceilings are leveled with cement-based mixtures with height differences of up to 3 cm.If it is necessary to apply a layer with a thickness close to the maximum, layer-by-layer alignment is performed, waiting for the previous layer to completely cure.

As for the preparation of the surface, the concrete base for the ready-mix does not need a notch - only priming.

Smooth plasterboard ceiling

If the ceilings in the apartment have significant differences, but at the same time are high enough (3 m or more), then the process of their basic alignment can be facilitated by mounting an additional base made of drywall sheets (gypsum plasterboard) on them. GKL is laid on a frame made of wooden blocks or a special steel profile with mounting fittings, which is attached to the walls and concrete ceiling.

Frame installation

The manufacture of the frame begins with marking its structure on the ceiling and calculating the need for materials. There are several ways to lay out the frame, depending on the size and thickness of a standard GKL sheet. Based on the most common size of drywall 120x250 cm, the marking of the frame structure is performed with a transverse pitch of 60 and a longitudinal one from 60 to 80 cm.

Then a starting line is applied along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling - a mark along which the frame will be mounted. The distance from the ceiling to the starting line should take into account the functionality of the new ceiling covering - with the planned implementation of heat and sound insulation, and even with additional protection of hygroscopic insulation from steam, this value should take into account the thickness insulating materials... If the purpose of the plasterboard ceiling being arranged is only leveling, then this distance will approximately correspond to the section of the steel profile used.

Ud-profiles are attached to the walls along the starting line with self-tapping screws, to them jumpers from the cd profile are mounted perpendicularly, which are additionally fixed on the ceiling with suspensions on their span.


If execution is planned, then the installation of the frame is carried out on a vibration suspension - special suspensions and gaskets that prevent the transmission of vibration of the mounted structure from the concrete base.

Heat, sound and heat planned for installation vapor barrier materials are placed between the frame and the ceiling in a certain sequence - the vapor barrier should be located on both sides of the insulation, and in the case of foil-clad internal vapor protection - with foil towards the room.

Plasterboard installation

After calculating the consumption of gypsum board (area of ​​the room plus 15%), the material is acquired, and they begin to lay it on the frame using self-tapping screws for metal (if the frame is made of a steel profile). Sheets of drywall are cut with a clerical knife by making an incision on one side and bending the gypsum board in the opposite direction, followed by cutting the opposite shell.

Before installation, chamfer with a knife is removed from the joining edges of the gypsum board to ensure the possibility of filling the seam with a gypsum mixture to the full depth. The joints of the sheets are arranged so that they are located along the lintels of the frame, otherwise the constant appearance of cracks in the finish along the seams is inevitable.

In this case, the sheets are laid "in a razbezhku", or with an offset, so that the joint of two sheets is not a continuation of the seam of two adjacent gypsum boards. Self-tapping screws along the seams are staggered, maintaining a step within 12-17 cm and sinking their caps flush with the surface of the drywall.

After the installation of the gypsum board is completed, the caps of the self-tapping screws are putty and the joints of the sheets are filled with a special compound from the Knauf company with the simultaneous gluing of the seams with a reinforcing tape-serpyanka 5 cm wide.After curing and drying of the seal, the surface of the joints is processed with sandpaper, and the ceiling after priming is ready for finishing.

Common finishing technologies

After completing the work on the basic leveling of the ceiling or installing the gypsum board, they begin finishing, the options for which there are also many. Let's start with the classic - whitewashing, but it makes no sense to consider the independent preparation of a solution from lime and chalk - there is a wide range of water-based formulations on sale in a wide price range.

Whitewashing a concrete ceiling with water-based paint

If the basic alignment of concrete slabs is performed by plastering with a cement-sand mortar or a ready-made mixture on a cement basis, then perform finish alignment surface with plaster putty - depending on the qualifications of the performer and the quality of the basic leveling, this will require the application of one to three layers. The surface is pre-primed in one layer with a latex-based composition, and each subsequent layer of putty is applied after the previous one has dried. Having achieved the evenness of the base, it is polished with sandpaper, after which the ceiling is cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner and primed again.

Painting is performed manually with a paint roller, then painting over hard-to-reach areas with a brush. Typically, the instructions for use stipulate that the paint is diluted with water in an amount of 10% to obtain an optimal consistency. Formulations for external use are also suitable for painting ceilings, their grain size is slightly higher, but at the same time they better tolerate washing with water if necessary.

If desired, a colored color scheme can be added to the white emulsion, but the amount of paint after that should be enough for two layers - it will not work to get the same tone of the composition a second time.

Painting is done in two layers (with a low quality of emulsion - more), which are applied in perpendicular directions.

Important! Painting is done in the direction from the window towards the opposite wall, and last layer must be applied along this direction.

After drying, which should take place without drafts, the installation of decorative polyurethane foam skirting boards is performed, the size and profile of which is selected in accordance with the dimensions and style of decoration of the room.

If you use skirting boards cast from plaster, then their installation is carried out at the stage of final leveling of the ceiling by installing it on a mortar gypsum plaster, since higher requirements are imposed on the strength of the fastening of these elements.

Foam skirting boards are attached to pasty PVA glue or colorless silicone sealant, after which the joints are closed finishing putty... Installed skirting boards can be painted to match the ceiling or, conversely, made with impressive contrast.

Whitewashing of plasterboard ceiling with water-based paint

The painting technology of the plasterboard base is identical to the finish of the leveled concrete ceiling... However, one should take into account the hygroscopicity of gypsum even in a moisture-resistant version of gypsum plasterboard, therefore, priming drywall with a latex composition is best done in 2 layers - in the future, this will allow you to safely clean the finish using water.

Pasting ceilings with wallpaper

This type of finish is popular and can be performed both on a concrete base and on a plasterboard-lined ceiling.

The choice of wallpaper material should be made precisely from the segment of finishing products for ceilings, since the width of the ceiling wallpaper is greater than that of the wall wallpaper (to reduce the number of joints), and their thickness is smaller (in order to reduce weight). The most common wallpaper on a non-woven basis.

Important! If the final leveling with plaster putty is made with defects, it is advisable to choose ceiling wallpaper with an embossed texture that will hide minor surface imperfections.

The wallpaper is glued to the ceiling by two people, cutting the material into strips of the required length and applying glue to one or both surfaces, depending on the material of the wallpaper and the type of glue.

Wallpaper strips are glued end-to-end and placed along the rays of light from the light source - the transverse layout will show the joints of the material.

Glueing is done on a special wallpaper glue that does not leave stains from accidental dirt after drying.

Drying of the pasted wallpaper should also take place without drafts and additional heating devices. If the wallpaper material is white, then it can be painted, two or three times during operation, to improve the aesthetics of the finish.

After the finish has dried, the polyurethane foam ceiling skirting boards are mounted on silicone sealant.

Ceiling decoration with decorative styrofoam tiles

If the final alignment of the ceiling base is made with minor defects that the coloring will not hide, and there is no time to correct these shortcomings, decorative polystyrene tiles will help to solve the problem, which will simultaneously act as a heat-insulating coating. It can be glued on both concrete and gypsum plasterboards.

There are a lot of varieties of this material on the market, they differ in density, surface texture, color and degree of decorativeness, on which the price of the material generally depends, which is usually available to a wide range of consumers.

Other methods of finishing ceilings

There are many other ways to repair the ceiling in an apartment on your own or with the assistance of professionals, and the list of them is constantly growing with the development of technology. These are stretch and false ceilings, siding and mosaic trim, upholstery with decorative fabrics and decoration plaster stucco... The choice of method must be thoughtful and rational.

There is a nuance, which is also desirable to take into account - the more funds are invested in the decoration, the more difficult it is to part with it, and in the room any interior gets bored or wears out over time, not to mention the rapidly changing fashion.

Conclusion

When repairing the ceiling, one should not forget that this is primarily a supporting structure, the strength characteristics of which depend not only on the quality of the product's manufacture, but also on routine care and maintenance. Therefore, redecorating the finishing of ceilings in order to mask the wear and tear of structures is not reasonable and dangerous; moreover, on a restored concrete base, the finishing is more durable.

The main point of the article:

  1. Substrate preparation is an integral part of ceiling renovation.
  2. Repair of a ceiling that has lost its aesthetics should be carried out after restoration. concrete structures.
  3. Hiding serious defects in floor slabs under decorative finishes is dangerous.
  4. High-quality basic repair of the base is a guarantee of the durability of the finish.
  5. The choice of a method of decorative ceiling decoration from a variety of existing technologies must be thoughtful.
  6. The correct algorithm for performing repairs is necessary condition quality finishes.

First of all, entering the room, the ceiling is striking. From its aesthetics, a general opinion about the room as a whole is built. A durable ceiling surface deserves more attention than you think. They will help to put the coating in order step by step ceiling repair. Doing it yourself can save you a lot of money.

Experience and practice are important at every stage, if you have not encountered it before, we strongly recommend that you contact a specialist. The final cost of the project depends on the volume and complexity of the ceiling. Highly qualified specialists will help you develop a project, squeeze it into the design and implement everything in a short time.

The first step is choosing a ceiling material. On modern market a large selection of materials, it is difficult to choose the best option, each is good in its own way from these considerations, we will touch on each one.

The most popular are:

  • Whitewash;
  • Dye;
  • Wallpaper;
  • Plastic panels (MDF);
  • Ceiling tiles;
  • Suspended structure;
  • Wood;
  • Rack surface;
  • Armstrong;
  • Stretch fabric.

Stripping

The old surface should be cleaned to a complete base, if the repair is carried out in a new building, proceed to the next step.

The old cladding is removed completely. Old whitewash and the plaster is first soaked with a roller. The roller is wetted warm water and try to squeeze into the surface. The dried roller is wetted again by repeating the procedure. Scrape the wet surface with a spatula to the concrete base. Large rooms are soaked in patches to prevent drying out.

If the surface has been coated with oil-based paint or water-based paint, remove in a simple way will be problematic. Mechanical method laborious and will take a lot of effort, so buy a wash. The wash is a chemical solution that will corrode the surface. After soaking the ceiling with a cleaning solution, it should be left to infuse for 12 hours. Now proceed to remove the old paint.

In old panel houses, decorative panels are used. An ordinary scraping will help to remove the panel. Remove the remaining stains immediately so that they do not appear on the new surface.

Elimination of cracks

All cracks, seams must be eliminated, otherwise it will all be reflected on the new surface. First, each crack is cut. The cutting process involves widening and breaking the furrow. As an assistant, you can use a hammer drill, chisel, or even a grinder. The breakdown will help to seal the crack better, preventing it from creeping further.

Each crack is well cleaned of dust and debris. Be sure to treat the inside with a primer, this will improve the adhesion of the future solution to the surface. The size of the defect matters!

Small minor crackles can be sealed with sealant or polyurethane foam. The foamed gap must be given time to expand, only after that the excess is cut off. Large cracks are closed using a serpyanka mesh. The mesh acts as a second primer, figuratively of course.

Any composition is applied with effort, pressing it inward. A serpyanka must be glued to the sealed places, and its width overlaps the holes by 1-2 centimeters on each side.

Primer

The cleaned surface can be primed. The primer has both adhesive and antiseptic properties. The areas affected by the fungus are pretreated with antifungal components. Allow the coating to dry after applying antifungal mixtures. The primer is applied to a dry wall with a roller, if it is difficult to crawl up with a roller, use a brush.

The composition of the soil is covered in 2-3 layers, with a 3-4 hour break between each layer. The multi-layer cake primer will form a film that will help keep the outer layer intact for as long as possible.

Finishing

The prepared surface must be leveled before finishing, otherwise the facing coating may skew. One of the methods will help to make the surface even - wet plaster or drywall sheets.

Wet plaster

This type of plaster is used exclusively for leveling. There are mineral, acrylic, silicate and silicone mixtures. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, so choosing the right one does not hurt to disassemble the properties.

Mineral mixture

A mixture of mineral plaster is included in the class of environmentally clean materials... Its composition consists of clean and safe components - slaked lime, Portland cement, natural stone, modifiers.

Pros:

  • Strength;
  • Resistance to temperature extremes;
  • Moisture resistant;
  • Breathes;
  • Does not burn;
  • Easy to care for.

Minuses:

  • Scanty palette of shades;
  • Sometimes cracks appear (sometimes if the rules are not followed).

Acrylic composition

Acrylic is the main component of this composition. Polymer resins give the component an attractive appearance and elasticity. The modifier allows you to achieve the desired properties. Dyes in production are added in dosage, color uniformity is guaranteed. The heterogeneity of stone fractions does not guarantee a uniform consumption of material.

Advantages:

  • Mechanical stability;
  • Moisture resistant;
  • Does not crack;
  • Does not burn;
  • Increased heat and sound insulation;
  • Easy to care for.

Disadvantages:

  • Doesn't breathe;
  • It fades when exposed to the sun.

Silicone + silicate plaster

The main component is silicone resin mixed with natural fillers.

Pros:

  • Does not fade;
  • Not exposed to temperature extremes;
  • Vapor permeable;
  • As part of an antiseptic;
  • Does not crack.

Minuses:

  • Price;
  • Application experience required.

Smoothing the surface with a wet putty is considered a classic method, but requires skill.

Drywall

Drywall sheets are used to level highly skewed surfaces. In addition to the ideal ceiling, you will get increased heat and sound insulation characteristics. Equal wooden surfaces will allow you to fasten sheets without erecting a fastening structure.

A specially erected frame is assembled from a galvanized profile, and by laying additional thermal insulation mats, the characteristics will increase. The maximum frame height reaches 15 centimeters, and for low rooms 5-7 cm.

The frame is fastened in the following sequence:

  • Surface marking;
  • In the middle of the two sides (width, length), a profile is attached, dividing the room into 4 squares;
  • Fasteners are made for suspensions, on which the rest of the profile will be planted;
  • The guides are attached with self-tapping screws;
  • Mount the fixing jumpers;
  • Sew on the missing details of the frame;
  • Mount electrical wiring;
  • Sheathed with drywall sheets.

It is better to fasten full-size sheets together. The sheet has large dimensions, and it is difficult to keep track of the entire area, it can break at a height. After sheathing the frame with sheets, glue all the seams with a serpyanka, putty on top with a layer of putty. The finishing stage of the putty is applied in compliance with the surface level. After drying, the gypsum plasterboard sheets are sanded, primed and transferred to the finishing.

Painting

Finishing is not limited to preparatory processes, it is time to move on to the finishing part. Ceiling repair stages also involve painting or finishing with other materials. Paint is used less and less as a finishing material for the ceiling. The paints and varnishes have been replaced by new traditional surfaces.

Before painting, the ceiling should be prepared - covered with 2-3 coats of primer solutions. After drying, proceed. For work, you need a roller on a long bar and a brush. The first coat of paint is called test, the appearance after the application of the initial coat does not affect the final appearance in any way. For coloring, use water-based or acrylic paint, which is applied according to a special technique in at least 3 layers.

Sewing plastic panels

Modern plastic panels have reached their peak, the appearance has a great structural variety. You can fix the panels directly to the ceiling, or use a frame made of wood or a metal profile. Fastening of panels to a wooden frame is made with special staples and nails. It is convenient to attach the plastic to the metal profile using short self-tapping screws.

For a neat cladding, use a starter strip, which is nailed around the perimeter and hides the edges of the panels. Pay attention to the installation of the first panel, its distortion will cause a defect in the entire structure. Fastening the last panel will cause difficulty, in order to avoid an awkward moment, first insert the panel into the panel, and then slip it into the facing.

Wallpaper

Wallpapering the ceiling is harder than you might imagine. The inconvenience of the process, combined with the alignment of each strip along the entire length, makes you want to quit. Choosing this type of finish without experience - handwritten judgment. For simplicity, you can choose wallpaper without a pattern.

In order not to translate expensive canvases, buy a roll of cheap wallpaper, and practice, transfer the experience gained to the finishing option.

  • Start gluing indoors;
  • Glue only two people, standing one after the other;
  • It is more convenient to glue one with a rolling pin;
  • Start work by preparing the glue;
  • Wallpaper is glued onto a primed dry surface;
  • The glue is applied to the wallpaper and to the ceiling;
  • Each strip is glued joint to joint to the previous one.

Ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles are still popular. Tiles are made of polyurethane or expanded polystyrene. The types of patterns and shapes of tile panels have a wide variety, allowing you to choose for any interior.

Covering the ceiling with tiles is easier than wallpaper, but there are tricks. Before gluing, be sure to treat the surface with a primer.

  • To make the tile sit beautifully, first apply the markings with a pencil or marker;
  • It doesn't matter which layout method is chosen, first divide the room into 4 identical rectangles;
  • Installation of any method starts from the center of the room;
  • Use only polymer construction adhesive;
  • Dots of glue are applied at a distance of 15 centimeters;
  • For reliability, press the tile for at least 60 seconds;
  • The last step is the pasting of the skirting boards.