Insulation of the balcony wall. Do-it-yourself balcony insulation
The presence of a loggia gives the owner of a city apartment a lot of significant advantages. And the most important of them is the available opportunity to expand your ownership by additional square meters... True, for this it will be necessary to work - but in any case, a considerable gain is achieved, especially taking into account how much one "square" costs useful area in our time.
How to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands - I had to ask myself such a question when the idea came to my mind to turn our ownerless balcony into a home one. As it turned out, sewing in a room that is a nursery is not at all comfortable for me. I wanted solitude and silence to be completely focused on work, and I also interfered with my studies and rest for children.
In this article, I will talk about how we carried out repairs to transform our cold and blown loggia into a living room, or rather into my study, and at what price it cost us. And I will also give valuable advice that will help you avoid mistakes and save your nerves and money)
- Replacing the window on the balcony
- Balcony (loggia) plaster
- Costings. How much money did it take us to insulate the balcony (loggia)
- A few tips for those who are going to insulate the balcony with their own hands
How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands
What I had to face and what our loggia looked like before insulation
When I told my loved ones about my idea, at first everyone laughed at me. They began to talk about the fact that there was not enough space, and they were frightened by the coldness of the unheated room - after all, our loggia was essentially an outdoor room. In order for you to imagine what I had to face, I enclose a plan of the balcony. I had to turn three and a half squares of usable area into a full-fledged study, where two of my Sewing machines with table, cutting table, ironing board.
The first window with a balcony door and access to the kitchen. This wall is the main one - it is already warm, so you don't have to sheathe it. Subsequently, we refused to cover it with plaster, since the brick itself looks quite interesting in the interior. We only cleaned its surface with a sandpaper from dirt.
The second window is located on the wall of the loggia; it required a complete replacement and touched up the stained-glass windows. The photo was taken after the installation of a new double-glazed window.
Replacing the window on the balcony
The first thing my story with a balcony started with was the replacement of the existing double-glazed window. When we drove into our new building, we saw that on the loggia (unlike other rooms) the developer had installed windows in one layer of glass. Of course, this was the summer option, they let the cold out to the utmost. Only there was no question of replacing the double-glazed window, because I also wanted to change the shape of the frame, to make an opening sash of other sizes. I do not know how the project of our house was made, but the architect obviously did not try for the convenience of the residents. Therefore, first of all, I found a company that made a solid two-chamber window according to our sizes. As stated by the windows, such a window provides 25% more heat preservation in the room than the one that was provided by the developer.
When ordering a new window, there was one little fad that significantly increased the amount of our expenses - lamination. That is, from the street side, all the window frames of our house are dark - burgundy, under the tree. Therefore, we also had to stay within the overall picture and make a window in the general colors... For lamination, firms engaged in the manufacture of windows ask for 20% of the total cost.
The price for a window measuring 2580 * 1520 cm with a burgundy frame, with installation and delivery was 20,700 rubles. And we sold the dismantled old window profitably to the Avito website.
Important (!)- if you are going to insulate the balcony and increase the ceiling after installing the window, then tell the windows about it. They'll put extensions on the top of the window so that later your extended ceiling won't cover the shutters and you can hang the curtains.
Heating the loggia, which way to choose
The loggia usually has walls in one layer of brick, the worst option is a corrugated balcony. Therefore, in order to feel comfortable in this room during the cold season, a heater is needed.
There are two options for making the loggia warm. The first is to open balcony door so that it is heated by the adjoining room. The second is to install electric "warm" floors or buy oil radiators.
I will say right away from our experience - one heater was not enough for us, and we decided to install a warm floor. Despite the fact that the walls of our loggia were insulated, the cold came from the neighbors above and below - after all, their balconies remained uninsulated.
The choice of material for insulating a loggia (balcony)
At the very beginning, my husband was advised to do the insulation of the balcony with his own hands, in general he is rugged at me - maybe put the laminate and glue the tiles. But in the case of the balcony, I did not have time to wait until he found free time, here I needed the work of a professional, since it would have cost more to correct mistakes. So we found a master who is engaged in this business and watched his work from the side. I found him through Avito, which I first of all paid attention to - real photos and living in our area (so that he could go to lunch, I do not spend a lot of time).
I wanted not only to sheathe the balcony with panels, but to make walls on which later it was possible to glue the wallpaper, so for interior cladding we chose drywall. Finding a good specialist who would work with drywall and wiring (after all, I still needed sockets and lighting), as it turned out, was not an easy task. But I was lucky and found good specialist who promised me to bring my idea to life! On his advice, after taking all measurements, we purchased to insulate our loggia:
- drywall - for walls and ceilings
- plywood - for the floor
- techno-nicol rocklight - for floor
- technoNIKOL technoplex - for walls and ceilings
- isolar - reflective metallized substrate
- bars
The most important thing on this list is insulation. It is due to him that you get a full-fledged living room. We have chosen two types of insulation:
The first type for floor insulation is techno-nicol rocklight. It is a rectangular slab pressed from basalt fibers, in the common people it is called mineral wool... Do not be afraid that it can have an adverse effect on the air in the room (many write about harmful fumes, etc.), on the contrary, due to its ability to pass moisture, and not retain it, it is widely used for warming damp rooms where there is a possibility of mold and mildew ... According to the Technonikol company, its plates do not burn and do not absorb moisture, therefore, today they are recognized as the best heaters on the market. In order to cover the floors of the loggia with an area of 3.8 m. In two layers, we needed 1 package of TechnoNicol Rocklight, which contained 12 slabs.
The second insulation that we used is TechnoNIKOL Technoplex for interior wall cladding. As I mentioned above, the developer built our loggia in one layer of brick, due to this, it blew from every corner. In addition, inconvenient stained-glass windows were installed in the loggia on the sides of the window, which from the outside gave the house a business look, and inside for the residents served as a source of constant drafts and moisture. This kind the insulation is made of nanographite, due to which it has an unsightly gray color. Although in terms of weight and appearance, it reminded me more of foam, but despite its lightness, it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. After our balcony ceased to resemble a bamboo hut, I began to think about how to use these magic tiles to make soundproofing from neighbors in the living room)
The third type of insulation- it rather goes as an addition to the first two, this metallized substrate isolon or isolar... We all know that a shiny surface reflects well. It is this ability of the metallized surface of the substrate that allows the heat to be redirected inside the room, as if reflecting it and not allowing it to go outside.
As a result, I can say that all the heaters coped with their tasks with a bang, they really keep warm, like a thermos. But at the same time they miss excess moisture preventing the formation of mold.
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands step by step photo
1. We cleaned the balcony of all unnecessary things. Before the arrival of the master, we cleaned our balcony from rubbish and debris, a window had already been installed and heating radiators were installed.
2. Patching "holes" in stained-glass windows with insulation plates TechnoNIKOL Technoplex. This did not affect the appearance of the house in any way, but for us the problem of eternal drafts was solved. The slabs were laid in two layers, all the cracks were filled with polyurethane foam.
Cutting the slabs after taking measurements is carried out using a jigsaw and a hacksaw for metal.
3. Bringing out the electrical wiring to the balcony. In my workshop, it was planned to install three sockets for sewing machines and a laptop, wires were pulled from the nearest outlet from the kitchen.
4. Insulation of the floor with beams and insulation TechnoNIKOL rocklight (mineral wool). According to the reviews of our master, he most of all likes to work with this type of insulation. Since when it is placed between the bars, it expands on its own and does not leave any gaps, which means it does not require the use of polyurethane foam.
Although basalt wool and glass wool are two different things, I still played it safe and diligently closed the door to the balcony while he was laying the floors. And then she vacuumed all the walls for an hour. Our master, of course, laughed for a long time when he saw me walking in a medical mask and gloves. For me, any mention of glass wool is a fear since childhood, when we ran around the construction site and accidentally hitting the glass wool, any of us got a burn, after which it itched and burned for a long time.
The frame or the so-called formwork for the future floor and walls is first assembled from wooden blocks. The slats are fastened together with metal corners using dowels and a screwdriver.
If the frame is laid on concrete, then holes are first drilled on the concrete floor at the anchorage points using an impact drill. Then in wooden logs dowels are inserted, applied to the attachment points and screws are hammered in with a hammer.
Mineral wool mats can be laid directly on concrete screed, in a wooden frame between the logs. It does not shrink at all, therefore it is used even on surfaces with high traffic.
To give the floor additional heat-insulating properties - on top of the first layer of insulation made of basalt wool, you can build a second frame of the lathing and in the same way lay another layer of techno-nickel rocklight. In this case wooden blocks fastened with a screwdriver on self-tapping screws.
Next, an insar layer is used - this is a metallized substrate that reflects heat and protects from moisture, is widely used to create a warm balcony (loggia). After laying all the layers of building materials, we reached the same floor level as the room without thresholds and steps.
Important (!)- the metallized substrate is laid with the reflective surface up.
5. Ceiling insulation with TechnoNIKOL Technoplex insulation. In our ceiling, we have installed two wires for the ceiling lights. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, under wooden beams was withdrawn electrical wiring... I really like this method - it looks neat, without unnecessary wires. Electricians have a lot to learn from Bashkir masters)
6. Thermal insulation of walls with insulation TechnoNIKOL Technoplex.
The main difference between nanographite insulation and basalt wool is that it is not elastic. Therefore, when installing it in the crate, there are gaps, which then need to be filled with polyurethane foam.
After all the joints have been processed, a metallized isolar substrate is applied over the insulation. It is attached to the crate with a stapler and special tape (connecting tape) - isospan.
After sheathing the entire surface with a metallized substrate, from above using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver to wooden crate drywall sheets are attached.
Plastering the balcony (loggia) with your own hands
After the balcony was completely sheathed with plasterboard sheets, including the ceiling, we had to plaster the walls. You cannot glue wallpaper on bare drywall, because upper layer it is made of paper and may come off when wet. Additional surface treatment of sheets includes a primer and putty.
At this stage of work, our master left us, since he was only engaged in insulation, and the work of a plasterer as a painter was not part of his duties. We had a choice - either to find a new employee, or to pick up a spatula ourselves. A significant role in the choice was played by the amount that the plasterers - professionals - asked for the treatment of our small area.
Therefore, my friends, for the first time in my life I took a spatula in my hands and plastered my balcony myself (just below I posted a photo with the result). But I will say right away that I liked plastering, as it turned out to work with plaster mix It's not difficult at all, and if you are not particularly picky about your walls - feel free to take a trowel in your hands and master a new type of activity! Subsequently (how they scared me experienced craftsmen) after drying, nothing fell off, and the loggia became even warmer - after all, I myself responsibly covered all the cracks and joints.
So, in order to plaster the balcony, sheathed with sheets of drywall, I needed:
- gypsum plaster "Volma layer"
- deep penetration drywall primer
- serpyanka tape for joints
- putty knife
- container for diluting plaster
- drill with attachment mixer for stirring solution
- oilcloth to protect the surface from dirt (floor and brick wall)
1. First, I went over the walls with a primer to improve adhesion to the topcoat. I waited 40 minutes until it dries completely.
2. Sealed all the joints on the drywall with tape - serpyanka. It forms a strong bond with the cementitious mixture, which is especially important at seams and corners.
3. Prepare the solution. At first I spread everything according to the instructions, and then I mixed the plaster with water by eye. The second time you already know exactly what consistency the solution should be. I applied the plaster in two layers. It took me four hours to get to work. I concluded that it is possible to cope and learn to work with a spatula even if you are a beginner. What happened to me can be judged by the photo. After drying, the color of the "Volma Layer" plaster does not turn white, but gray, so the ceiling had to be whitewashed with water-based paint.
How much money did it take to insulate the balcony with our own hands
- Two-chamber window with lamination (assembly, installation) - 20.700
- Nails, switches, sockets, cable, foam, sealant - 4.800
- Heaters, bars, drywall, plywood - 11.600
- Window sills, bevels, laminate, wallpaper, lamps - 4.000
- The work of the master - 10.000
Total for our loggia with an area of 3.43 sq. M. it took us 51.100 rubles. The amount of expenses depends on what size the area will be insulated, and what materials will be used for this. As you understand, the insulation of the balcony in the Khrushchev will be much cheaper than the insulation large balcony with panoramic windows.
1. Morally prepare yourself for the fact that you will need to allocate temporary space for building materials. All these heaters, sheets of drywall and wooden blocks are impressive in size and occupied our entire hallway with an area of 13 square meters. It was especially hard for me with small children, whom you cannot keep in place and I had to constantly make sure that they did not stumble and carry dirt around the apartment.
2. Separately, it should be said about debris and dust. Despite the fact that all dirty work were carried out on the loggia, yet the builder had to walk between the balcony and the hallway for materials and tools. Therefore, the entire floor was strewn with shavings and debris. Every time after his work I had to carry out wet cleaning in the house with a rag and a vacuum cleaner. This is an important reason why I quickly wanted to finish with the insulation of the loggia.
3. The amount that was negotiated to us at the beginning for the purchase of building materials was approximate. That is, in the process, you still had to buy something.
4. One person cannot cope with all the work. There are two ways out: find a company that does turnkey repairs, whose prices start at 50 thousand rubles. Or, as we did, we looked for a wizard separately for each option. As a result, for the entire process of insulating our loggia, we needed: specialists in the manufacture and installation of windows, a plumber, a master of insulation and cladding of balconies, a plasterer - a painter. It turned out cheaper than ordering from an organization, but I also had to spend time searching.
5. Keep in mind, if you nevertheless decide to insulate the balcony with your own hands without the help of a specialist, then you should have the tool necessary for work at hand. This is a jigsaw and saws, a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a sealant gun, a puncher, a building ruler with a level, a construction knife for drywall, a construction stapler.
6. Do not throw away receipts, they may come in handy when repairs are over and unused building materials remain. Within 14 days from the date of purchase, you can return them to the store and get your money back, provided that the packaging has remained unopened.
7. Shopping is best done in large chain stores. For example, Leroy Merlin gives buyers the opportunity to return unused goods for repairs within 100 days after the purchase. I had no difficulty in returning the extra rolls of wallpaper, glue and curtain rods that did not fit in height.
Conclusion
I hope our experience helped you on how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands with step by step photo... Many complain that after warming, the loggia still remains cold. We specially measured the temperature on the balcony when it was freezing outside. She remained as warm and comfortable as in the apartment.
The work of insulating the balcony is, of course, difficult and dirty. But how much joy I now have in my own workshop. I have my own little corner where I can work calmly without disturbing my loved ones and create in my personal space. So if you have an idea to make yourself a study, but there is no place in the apartment - pay attention to the balcony or loggia. Good luck to everyone, bye!
More recently, balconies were used for storing unnecessary things, conservation, etc.
Now, many are trying to make a living room or study out of the balcony.
But to implement this idea, it is necessary to insulate the balcony well. Let's take a closer look at this process.
What should you pay attention to?
Thermal insulation of the balcony will not only increase the usable space in the apartment, but also reduce its heat loss, because it is through the balcony that a large amount of it leaves. In order for the insulation to be of high quality, you need to do it correctly and know the sequence of work.
So you need to make up detailed plan works, which will look like this:
- - preparation and selection of thermal insulation;
- - installation of glazing;
- - installation of thermal insulation;
- - installation of finishing;
- - installation of a heating system (if necessary).
Balcony insulation can be installed both inside and outside. But since you will be doing the work without the help of professionals, it is better to use internal insulation.
Step one. The best insulation for the balcony from the inside
Now on sale you can find a lot different types thermal insulation. The most suitable for a balcony are:
- - Styrofoam,
- - EPS,
- - mineral wool,
- - expanded clay.
Polyfoam and EPSP are mounted in almost the same way, most precisely with one difference - the EPSP plates are connected to each other by grooves.
It is better to refuse the use of mineral wool, since its installation is laborious, and condensation periodically forms on the balcony, which will eventually ruin the material. Expanded clay is used only for the floor.
Among other things, it is necessary to take into account the load on the balcony, therefore it is better to choose polystyrene with a layer of 4-5 cm, the more it is cheaper than expanded polystyrene and mineral wool.
Step two. Installation of glazing
If glazing has already been installed on your balcony, then this step is skipped.
The entire glazing installation process depends on the railings already available on the balcony.
If an iron grating is installed as a railing, then it needs to be built up with the help of foam blocks or ceramic bricks.
It is necessary that the walls are more than 2 cm thick. If the parapet is made of reinforced concrete, then glazing can be started.
Now many people make a choice in favor of environmentally friendly wooden frames... But before installing, do not forget to treat the frames with an antiseptic and paint (staining must be repeated periodically).
Despite the advantages of wooden frames, many people choose PVC windows.
The best option would be a profile with increased rigidity and high rates strength and thermal insulation.
In addition, there are several more elements that must be present in PVC windows:
- - a profile of 5 cameras;
- - double-glazed windows from 2 chambers (for middle lane) either from 3 chambers (for cold regions);
- - reinforced reinforcement.
Glazing is ordered according to pre-measured dimensions. It is better to entrust its installation to professionals. Then you can start the insulation.
Step three. Installation of floor insulation
Consider the installation of insulation on the balcony floor using the example of polystyrene (or expanded polystyrene).
1) First, prepare the working surfaces - fill all cracks in concrete and joints between the slabs and the wall with polyurethane foam.
2) Mark the floor for laying the battens. The step between the battens of the sheathing should be about 1 cm larger than the width of the foam sheets.
3) Lay out the slats with a section equal to the thickness of the insulation along the markings. Lay the first and last beams at a distance of 5-10 cm from the walls. Connect the bars with self-tapping screws.
4) Between the battens of the lathing, install sheets of foam, on which in advance apply liquid nails or special glue. Fill all joints with polyurethane foam.
5) Place a vapor barrier on top of the foam to improve thermal insulation and prevent condensation. When using PET film, do not lay it on the “cold” side of the insulator. When using a foil vapor barrier, lay it on top of the foam with foil.
7) Finally, you can install decorative coating(for example, linoleum or carpet).
You can also insulate the floor with foam plastic in another way: clean work surface, lay the foam on it, which screech with a thin screed from a previously prepared dry mixture solution.
After the screed has dried, install a decorative coating - ceramic tiles.
There is another option for floor insulation - with the help of ceramite. This is a relatively cheap material, and the work with it is quite simple.
Let's take a closer look at this process:
1) First, lay the waterproofing on the floor, grasping 10 cm of walls.
2) Install beacons every 25 cm around the perimeter of the floor, but do not lean them strongly against the walls.
3) Spread the ceramite on the floor in a layer of 15 cm, evenly distributing it using a rule.
4) Shed insulation aqueous solution cement.
6) Allow the screed to dry completely, and then you can install the decorative cover.
Step four. Installation of insulation on walls
The walls are insulated in the same way as the floor. Proceed as follows:
1) Make markings for the lathing beams (as well as on the floor)
2) Fasten the beams along the markings.
3) Apply the polyurethane foam to the walls using an undulating motion. Also make holes for the dowels.
4) Fix the styrofoam with dowels-mushrooms.
5) Fill all cracks with polyurethane foam, and then cover with construction tape.
7) Glue all joints with foil tape.
8) Install another row of battens on top of the waterproofing and install the trim.
Step five. Ceiling insulation
The ceiling is also insulated like walls and floors, but there are some minor differences.
1) First of all, make the markings, along which you will then install the hangers under the guides.
3) In the right places, make cutouts in the foam for the suspensions.
4) Now attach the insulation with polyurethane foam. If the insulation is heavy, then fix it with dowels.
Fill all cracks with polyurethane foam. All other points are performed in the same way as in the previous stages.
Finishing
Most often for finishing use a lining or profile, but drywall is also suitable, which can be pasted over with wallpaper, or PVC panels. It is better to entrust the external finishing of the balcony to specialists, especially if the apartment is located above the first floor.
It is impossible to carry out heating on the balcony, so if you plan to use it constantly, then equip heating in the form of infrared floors, for example. Or you can install an electrical outlet on the balcony to connect the heater - this is the most budgetary option. Moreover, the balcony has a small area, so it will heat up quickly enough.
Also, keep in mind that glazing is heavy, so all other trims should be lightweight. So it is better to choose EPS or polystyrene as insulation.
In this article, we have indicated the main points that need to be considered when insulating and finishing a balcony.
So you can start working, knowing how to do it correctly, you will cope with this process without any problems and, as a result, you will get a full-fledged living balcony with a lot of advantages.
Video: How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands video
The use of a balcony (loggia) as an additional room with functions that are not inherent to it - as a greenhouse, kitchen, recreation area or study in last years became almost ubiquitous. With the advent of PVC structures, which allow you to quickly and efficiently perform glazing with a 2-3-layer glass unit that perfectly retains heat, insulating a balcony from the outside or from the inside with your own hands, quite successfully solve these problems.
But the balcony (loggia) is a small room. That's why, high-quality insulation, especially in the northern regions, leads to a critical reduction in its area due to the thickness of the insulation and finishing materials.
There is a need for external insulation, which allows not only to save space, but also to solve a number of technical problems associated with the removal of the "dew point" outside the perimeter of the balcony area.
In this article we will tell you how to insulate a balcony from the outside.
External insulation: pros and cons
When talking about do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony from the outside, with the exception of balconies located on the uppermost floors, it is impossible to insulate the entire balcony (loggia) from the outside. In the overwhelming majority of cases, we are talking about external insulation of the balcony parapet and (in very rare cases), external insulation balcony slab, which serves as a "roof" for the balconies of the upper floors.
Among the advantages of outdoor insulation, two main ones can be distinguished:
- Saving the area of the balcony.
- Carrying out the "dew point" on the outer surface of the parapet fence helps to avoid condensation and mold on the balcony.
The disadvantages of outdoor insulation are:
- The need to coordinate work on external insulation and changes in the design and appearance of the facade of the building with the architectural and construction and housing and communal authorities.
- Obtaining a work permit.
- The need to attract specialists - industrial climbers or special equipment - aerial platforms.
- Restriction on the choice of materials for insulation.
- A significant rise in the cost of insulation work.
Preparatory stage of work
Before starting to carry out DIY work on the insulation of the balcony parapet (loggia) from the outside, it is necessary to assess the amount of work to be done, the condition of the material from which the parapet is made, and calculate the cost of the work, taking into account the involvement of industrial climbers or the rental of special equipment. If the received calculations do not scare you and we are not talking about the price and not about the time spent on obtaining permission from the regulatory authorities to make changes to the design and appearance facade of the building - then get down to business!
We have already written in an article dedicated to the difficulties associated with making changes to the external enclosing structure of a small balcony and the facade of a building. In addition to the absence of Russian legislation normative documents, which would provide for such a possibility, and would make such insulation legal, it will also be necessary to coordinate work with the owners of the apartment building, since the outer walls and structures are the joint property of all owners of the apartment building.
Unauthorized introduction of changes entails not only the dissatisfaction of neighbors, but the obligation to restore the facade structures in their previous form at their own expense.
If it was possible to obtain the necessary permits, then you can start work.
Strengthening the structure of the parapet
The balcony parapet can be:
- Metal - from "corrugated board", rods, metal strip, pipes - in old houses.
- From reinforced concrete slabs of "light" concrete - in panel houses starting from series 121.
- Brick - in most modern brick or monolithic-frame residential buildings.
The material from which the parapet is made plays an essential role in the choice of not only the material of the insulation, but also its thickness and installation methods.
If the balcony parapet is made of corrugated board or metal welded structures, preliminary sheathing of this metal structure from the side of the balcony (loggia) will be required - otherwise the metal "ribs" of the corrugated board will spoil the whole look of the insulated balcony and will serve as "bridges" of cold, which will nullify all your efforts.
In addition to the device of an internal screen that will hide the metal structures (made of chipboard, drywall, PVC siding, plywood), it is imperative to create such a layer of insulation that would completely hide the elements of metal structures, otherwise winter period they will freeze and the cost of heating the balcony (loggia) will be excessive.
If the parapet is made of reinforced concrete slabs or bricks - everything is much simpler - it is not required additional work on changing the design of the parapet.
Material selection
Considering that the construction of the balcony - in 90% of cases, is external - that is, it protrudes beyond the facade of the building (with the exception of recessed loggias), it experiences increased wind loads and the effect of atmospheric precipitation.
Therefore, as a heater, it is necessary to choose a material that is resistant to the effects of street moisture.
The best in this regard are polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. It is undesirable to use mineral wool as insulation.
It is hygroscopic - it absorbs and retains moisture well, is heavy, inconvenient to work and requires the obligatory arrangement of the lathing. Therefore, it is better to refuse the idea of insulating the balcony outside with mineral wool.
The material, which is quite rarely used in do-it-yourself insulation of balconies and loggias, - polyurethane foam - is an ideal insulation for balcony parapets made of welded metal structures or corrugated board. Due to the "wrap-around" of foamed polyurethane all metal constructions(corrugated board edges) are immersed in insulation and do not form "cold bridges".
In addition, the application of such insulation to the corrugated board does not require the installation of any retaining structures. The only "drawback" is the high price. Both the insulation itself and the cost of work on its application. It is unlikely that it will be possible to perform such insulation with your own hands.
But, but if you decide to rent special vehicles or teams of industrial climbers in order to insulate your balcony from the outside, then the cost of applying PPU in comparison with the indicated work will be insignificant.
Thermal insulation with foam or penotex
Insulation of the outer wall of a balcony or loggia parapet does not require additional waterproofing, since moisture condensation on the outer wall does not occur, foam or foam boards can be glued to the outer surface of the parapet using any moisture-resistant adhesive construction mastic applied to the surface of the insulation plate with a comb spatula. The glued boards are additionally fixed with dowels-"mushrooms" with a wide head.
Considering that the thickness of the foam or foam board rarely exceeds 50 mm. it is possible not to arrange a crate for attaching the sheathing - an external decorative screen that will cover the insulation from the outside (unless this is PVC siding that needs guides to insert into individual elements siding).
Sheathing - (corrugated board, waterproof drywall, sheet metal siding, cellular polycarbonate or other waterproof sheet materials), which you decide to decorate the facade of your balcony from the outside, can be mounted on anchors with a length of 100-150 mm., the holes for which are drilled through the insulation and the outer fence of the parapet.
The length of the anchor should not exceed the total thickness of the parapet fence and insulation, so as not to protrude inside the balcony.
Let's summarize
Despite some savings in the area of the balcony with external insulation of the balcony (loggia) with your own hands, it is quite problematic to carry out the entire volume of work. This is due to the need to use special equipment(aerial platform) or safety equipment (climbing equipment). All this leads to an unreasonable rise in the cost of insulation of the balcony (loggia). Before proceeding with such work - think more than once - whether the saved 0.5 sq. sq. m of balcony area of investment of such significant funds and headaches with the collection of the necessary bureaucratic permits?
A balcony or loggia is unheated premises in the apartment. Therefore, they are a source of heat loss from an apartment or house. Even a well-glazed balcony allows a significant amount of heat to pass through.
To avoid this, the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside. It should be noted that there are various approaches to warming this type of room.
The type and method of insulation of the balcony and loggia depends on:
- intended purpose:
- the balcony is not intended for storage, it is insulated in order to reduce heat loss from the room. In this case, the work is carried out according to a scheme similar to external heating. That is, only one side of it is insulated, adjacent to the wall of the room;
- the balcony is for storage. Insulated along the perimeter of all surfaces. Since it shouldn't be here high temperature, then the requirements for thermal insulation materials are not particularly high;
- balcony, which is a continuation of the living room or serves as an office, library, sports hall, etc. In this case, heat loss through windows and all surfaces is eliminated. And as the materials used, heat insulators with high density and significant thickness are used. Special attention is given to the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material and the rules for its installation.
- the budget for insulation. Determines the type of insulation, and the area of insulation, and further finishing. It also determines whether to entrust the work to professionals or to carry out the insulation of the balcony with your own hands;
- season. Any kind of insulation can withstand low temperatures. But solutions, adhesives and foam must be used taking into account the temperature environment... As a rule, "winter varieties" are more expensive. And the duration of work in winter is much longer;
Consider ways to insulate a balcony using various heaters and give some important practical advice how to make the insulation of the loggia more effective. We will proceed from the fact that it is necessary to insulate the balcony with high quality and inexpensively on all surfaces inside - walls, ceiling and floor.
Insulation requirement:
- light weight. In order not to make the balcony heavier, which is much lower in strength than the loggia;
- small volume. In order not to occupy the useful living space of a balcony or loggia;
- low cost;
- security. Fire and environmental;
- the ability to do the work with your own hands.
Insulation for the balcony and loggia - types and properties
If you have not yet decided what is the best way to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with popular thermal insulation materials. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages in terms of characteristics, cost and installation methods.
Expanded polystyrene
Strong, dense material that does not burn well. Resistant to moisture, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.
Styrofoam
Dense insulation. It has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, light weight, high strength and low cost.
Basalt and mineral wool
Soft insulation. Works due to its structure. Fibers, arranged in a chaotic manner, contain air in them, which does not allow heat to penetrate through the cotton wool. Working with cotton wool, you need to create an additional frame.
Polyurethane foam (PPU)
Sprayed insulation. The material is good because it does not allow moisture to pass through, makes it possible to adjust the thickness of the insulation and allows you to get a coating without seams. And this, in turn, excludes the appearance of cold bridges.
Penofol
Multilayer material. The polystyrene backing traps heat, and the aluminum screen, which is like a thermal mirror, allows the heat to be reflected into the interior of the house. It can be used on its own or in combination with other insulation materials.
Expanded clay
Bulk insulation. It has a porous structure, due to which it retains heat well. Tried on for floor insulation.
Using these materials for insulation of the balcony and loggia, you can additionally provide good sound insulation(subject to glazing with plastic windows).
A mandatory accompanying attribute when insulating from the inside with most of the named materials is a film of a vapor barrier and a hybrid barrier or a superdiffusion membrane. It is designed to protect the insulation, especially soft from getting wet and condensation.
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How to insulate a balcony with your own hands - step by step instructions
- Vacation of the premises. It is impossible to do a good job if you have to constantly move things from place to place.
- Sealing cracks. We proceed from the fact that high-quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. In any case, there are gaps between the balcony and the wall, at the junction of the ceiling and floor. So they need to be sealed with foam, sealants or solutions. Significant slots are sealed with pieces of foam.
- Balcony / loggia waterproofing. It is necessary so that water does not get inside. Moreover, it can enter through micropores in concrete. For this purpose, a deep penetrating primer can be used.
- In the case of using cotton wool, it is necessary to install waterproofing film... It is attached with an overlap and secured with tape.
- Installation of insulation. Two methods can be distinguished here:
- Wireframe method. In this case, you must first equip the frame from the treated with an antiseptic wooden planks or galvanized profiles. Boards are more popular because they are cheaper and provide the ability to adjust the thickness of the frame. The most commonly used timber is 50x50. Insulation is introduced into the cells formed.
- Frameless method. More preferable, but only suitable for rigid insulation. This is due to the fact that the frame material at wireframe method remains not covered with insulation. That is, wood or metal serve as cold bridges and conduct heat well. Therefore, in the overwhelming majority of cases, rigid heaters are mounted without arranging the frame.
- Installation of foam foam, vapor barrier film or superdiffusion membrane.
- Floor insulation is in progress.
- The final stage - decorative trim balcony or drywall.
Insulation of the balcony and loggia with mineral wool
The cotton wool is laid so that it fits snugly to the frame elements, but is not "tamped", i.e. it does not need to be additionally sealed. From this, the structure of the mineral wool will change and some of the air will evaporate. This will reduce thermal insulation properties cotton wool. In order for the cotton wool to stay securely on the wall, and especially on the ceiling, you need to additionally fix it using wire or umbrellas (dowels with a wide head).
Mineral wool fixed with "umbrellas"
Sometimes cotton wool is wound behind the frame, as shown in the figure. Then the elements of the frame are held by the cotton wool. However, professionals do not recommend using this approach for low-density cotton wool (less than 50 kg / cubic meter), since cotton wool held in only a few places will settle over time, opening part of the wall for the movement of cold air.
The cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film. Then the counter-lattice is stuffed. It allows you to protect the cotton wool from touching finishing material and avoid the appearance of a dew point in this place.
In more detail, the stages of installing cotton wool are presented in the diagram.
- Floor base
- Floor lags
- Frame
- Basalt wool
- Vapor barrier film
- Counter grill
- Finishing material
Thermal insulation of the balcony with polystyrene and expanded polystyrene
Rigid insulation is also placed in the frame sections and fixed to foam or special glue. The insulation does not fit close to the frame, but with a gap of 5-10 mm. The gap is subsequently blown out with foam, and the foam sheet is additionally attached with a plastic dowel - an umbrella (fungus).
Fastening foam with a frame method
Fastening of expanded polystyrene by frame method
The foam sheets are pressed tightly against each other, and the joints are blown out with foam.
Expanded polystyrene sheets are joined according to the "groove-comb" principle.
The sputtering method stands out in this group. Such thermal insulation material like polyurethane foam, it is applied to the wall by spraying. The material, relatively new on the market, is quickly winning its fans among professionals and amateurs. Since it allows you to carry out insulation without additional preparation of the base. The high speed of work performance also speaks in favor of the PPU - less than one day. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the inability to perform the work independently without special equipment.
- At first, reliable protection insulation from moisture;
- Secondly, additional internal insulation;
- Third, the foil reflects 90% of the heat back. This is very important for a balcony or loggia, which, by law, cannot have their own heating sources.
