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How to make a drywall arch - 5 steps for making an arched doorway

By doing overhaul in his apartment, for sure, every homeowner has a desire to radically change the bored long years interior design for the better. From my own experience, I can say that just a banal plywood wallpaper or painting the ceiling and walls is unlikely to radically change the environment.

As an original addition to the visual cosmetic repairs, I propose to completely remove the interior doors, and instead leave an open arched doorway of an asymmetric or classic semicircular shape. To help the reader cope with this simple job, later in this article I will talk about how to make a drywall arch with your own hands in a short time without significant financial costs.

The choice of the shape of the arched opening

The integration of a semicircular or figured arch into an existing doorway does not imply a violation of the integrity of the interior walls, and does not require redevelopment of the apartment, therefore it does not have any effect on the load-bearing capacity building structures and the whole house as a whole.

At the same time, such a solution will allow you to get rid of annoying rectangular shapes doors, will help to visually increase usable area housing, and get an updated visual perception of the surrounding space.

Starting with the next section, step-by-step instructions for making arches will be described here, but first I want to offer several options for the size and shape of the arch for an interior doorway:

1. The classic symmetrical arch with a semicircular vault is considered universal option . It is quite simple to manufacture, and is well suited for opening any narrow single-leaf interior door;

1. The arched opening in the Art Nouveau style has a similar shape, but it has a large arc radius, since it is based not on a circle, but on an oval or ellipse. Due to the low height of the arch, this shape is well suited for wide openings from double doors in the living room, in the hall or hallway;
2. Gothic interior plasterboard arches have the same design, however, differ from the two previous options by the presence of a sharp top in an oval or semicircular vault;
3. A semi-arch of irregular asymmetrical shape can have almost any arch configuration, and is most often used for narrow doorways in the kitchen or hallway. This option is considered the most economical, since its manufacture will require the least amount of materials;

1. The openwork arch is a complex structure, in which, in addition to the entrance opening itself, there are small decorative through or blind openings designed exclusively for decoration. This option is usually set to doorway in place of two-leaf or four-leaf entrance doors in the living room or bedroom;
2. A multi-level arch most often has an original author's design, which is developed strictly individually, in accordance with the conceptual style of the apartment design and the personal preferences of the homeowners. Most often, this option is distinguished by smooth curved lines and the presence of curly decorative elements that can be located at different levels relative to each other.

When choosing the shape of an arch for self-production, you should be guided not only by your imagination or beautiful pictures from interior design magazines. To get a high-quality end result, for the first time, I advise you to choose an option that will match your practical skills and financial capabilities.

Stage 1. Preparation and marking of the doorway

First of all, you need to draw a preliminary sketch of the doorway on paper or on a computer, on which the shape of the future arch should be clearly drawn. For relax further work, in addition to the general sketch, I recommend depicting the projection of the finished arch in three planes, indicating all the necessary dimensions.

You need to take measurements from a clean doorway in the light, therefore, to begin with, you will have to perform simple preparatory work:

1. Before you make an arch from drywall yourself, you must completely dismantle the old interior door, along with decorative trim and a wooden box;

1. If, after removing the platbands and the box, on the end surface of the wall or door slopes significant potholes, large chips, cracks or other construction defects will be found, they need to be leveled and puttied cement-sand mortar or putty building mix for interior work;
2. If the doorway after the construction of the house has an irregular shape, crooked slopes or indirect littered internal corners, they also need to be leveled with a cement-sand mortar;

1. After the putty mortar has dried, it is necessary to measure the width of the doorway in two places: one measurement is made at the very top, and the second is 500-600 mm lower;
2. At the beginning of the rounding of the arch of the future arch, put a mark on the end of the wall, and measure the distance from it to the horizontal upper plane of the opening. This size will be considered its height;
3. Before making an oblique arch, the marks on the right and left sides must be placed at different distances from the top of the opening, because in this case, the height of the arch on the right and left sides will not be the same;
4. On the vertical side ends of the wall, and on the horizontal upper slope, at a distance of 13-14 mm from the edge of the wall, two parallel lines must be drawn on each side. They will serve as marks for installing a metal frame.

All drywall sheets are produced according to a single standard, according to which they can have a thickness of 9 mm or 13 mm. For sheathing the frontal planes of the door arch, I advise using sheets 13 mm thick, so all the markings for installation load-bearing frame should be done based on this value.

Stage 2. Installation of the supporting frame

The supporting frame for interior plasterboard construction is usually made of galvanized metal profile or wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm. Considering that our drywall arch will have rounding and radius shapes, a metal profile is best suited for its manufacture, although wooden blocks can be dispensed with in straight sections.

For single-leaf doorways with thin interior walls I recommend using a galvanized "CD" type frame profile, which is 27mm high, 62mm wide, and has a whip length of 3000mm. If the arch will have a width of more than 1500 mm, then for its manufacture it is better to use a more powerful rack profile of the “CW” type, the dimensions of which are 40x75x3000 mm.

1. Regardless of the option chosen, the manufacture of arches must begin with the installation of upper horizontal guides. To do this, two profiles must be cut off from a whole whip, the length of which must be equal to the width of the doorway;

1. Next, you need to cut four more profiles, the length of which should be equal to the height of the arch. They must be fixed vertically, one on each side of the end of the doorway;
2. Each vertical profile should be fastened with inside from the drawn vertical marking line. After installation, you need to check that the distance between the front plane of each profile and the frontal plane of the wall is strictly equal to 13-14 mm;
3. For fixing straight profiles to a concrete or brick wall, it is best to use plastic dowels 6x30 mm in size and galvanized self-tapping screws with a wide head 4.2x25 mm in size;
4. To make a curly arch, I advise you to prepare a template in advance. It can be cut from a large sheet of rigid packaging corrugated cardboard, an unnecessary piece of fiberboard or thin;

1. The width of the template should be equal to the width of the doorway, and the upper part should exactly repeat the semicircle, semi-oval, or other curly configuration of the vault of the future arch;
2. To make the frame of the radius part of the arch with your own hands, you need to take two identical segments drywall profile. They must be cut with a small margin in length.(300-500 mm more than the length of the arc on the template), and after bending and final fitting, precisely cut to the desired size;
3. The straightness and rigidity of the plasterboard metal profile is ensured by two longitudinal side ribs. In order to bend the lower profiles along the desired radius, and give them the correct arcuate shape, many radial cuts must be made on the side ribs to the very base;

1. Profiles with cut side ribs must be bent to a given radius, and then cut to length exactly to the size of the doorway. It is convenient to do this by attaching them to the template, while you need to make sure that both profiles have exactly the same bending configuration;
2. After that, each curved profile must be fixed at two points to the lowest part of the vertical guides that are installed at the end of the doorway;
3. To combine the entire frame into a single integral structure, the radius profiles can be interconnected with short transverse jumpers. In addition, it is necessary to install several vertical jumpers between the upper horizontal and lower arcuate profile;
4. To connect the profiles to each other, three types of fasteners are used: short self-tapping screws for metal with a hat in a sweat, steel rivets, or a special punching tool that punches a hole in the walls of two profiles, and then wraps the punched metal in different directions.

In building materials stores, you can find a ready-made metal profile for curved drywall structures. It is a conventional frame profile with cutouts and notches on the side stiffeners, due to which it can easily bend along the desired radius or take any curvilinear shape.
Its price slightly exceeds the cost of a straight frame profile, so if there is such an opportunity, it is better to buy such a profile for the manufacture of a radius arch.

Stage 3. Cutting and preparing drywall

The appearance and aesthetic properties of the finished arch will largely depend on how well the radius parts of the front plasterboard panels are cut. To cut a symmetrical semi-circle, semi-oval, or non-symmetrical arc, I recommend using one of three methods. Regardless of the method chosen, the first thing to do on a sheet of drywall is to draw a rectangle.

Its width should correspond to the width of the opening, and its height should be equal to the height of the future arch.

1. If we make a drywall arch of a symmetrical semicircular shape, then to draw the correct semicircle, you will need to make a simple impromptu compass.

• To do this, you need to find the center of the bottom side of the drawn rectangle, and tighten a small self-tapping screw at this point;
• Tie a thin nylon thread to the self-tapping screw, and tie a pencil or a thin marker to the other end of the thread;
• The distance from the center of the self-tapping screw to the writing unit of the marker should be equal to half the width of the arch minus 14 mm;
• After making sure that the length of the thread strictly corresponds to the calculated size, you need to attach the marker to the bottom line on one side of the rectangle;
• After that, pull the thread slightly, and draw the marker in an arc to the bottom line on the other side of the rectangle. As a result, a symmetrical semicircular arch will be drawn on the drywall sheet.

1. In order to draw a symmetrical semi-oval or part of an ellipse of the correct shape, it is most convenient to use a flexible elastic guide. It can be a long metal ruler, a thin wooden rail, a narrow plastic profile or water pipe:

• On both sides of the drawn rectangle, on the bottom side, you need to put marks at a distance of 14 mm from each edge;
• Attach one end of the guide to one mark, bend it along the desired radius, and also attach the second end to the other mark;
• In this position, it must be fixed motionless, so I recommend doing this work with one, and even better with two assistants;
• While two people hold the guide on both sides, a third person must make sure that it describes a symmetrical regular arc, and draw a line along it from one edge to the other of the bottom side of the rectangle.

1. For those who are interested in how to make a semi-arc arbitrary irregular shape to draw an asymmetrical curvilinear line on a drywall sheet, I advise you to use the existing template.

• As in the previous case, one mark must be placed on the underside of the drawn rectangle at a distance of 14 mm from its edges;
• Attach the arched side of the template to the set marks, and draw a curved line along it with a thin marker.

Gypsum board can be cut with a sharp construction knife, however, for a neat cut along the radius line, it is best to use an electric jigsaw and a wood file with a slight set of teeth. In order to prevent the edge of the sheet from chipping, before cutting any part out of drywall, I advise you to stick a wide strip of paper masking tape on the cut line.

Stage 4. Assembly of the arched structure

After both front panels are cut, they need to be combined with each other, and check how they fit together. Ideally they should be exactly the same., therefore, if there is any discrepancy between them, then it is better to immediately eliminate it with a knife, a coarse file or a coarse-grained emery cloth. After leveling the front panels, you can start sewing the supporting frame with drywall.

1. Each front panel must be installed at the same level in its place in the doorway, and fixed along the entire perimeter and in the middle to the metal profile using self-tapping screws in the recess, in increments of 100-120 mm;
2. When installing, make sure that the front plane of each panel is flush with the plane of the wall. If the front panel is slightly recessed, then there is nothing to worry about, it can then be leveled with putty. The main thing is that she does not come forward anywhere, beyond the dimensions of the doorway;

1. Further instructions will help you make a curly arch from a drywall strip, in one of two ways. In both cases, first you need to cut off a strip of drywall. Its length must necessarily be 100-200 mm longer than the maximum length of the arc of the arch, and the width should be equal to the distance between the front panels;
2. In the first case, the strip must be laid on a flat surface, bottom side up., and roll with a certain force with a spiked roller so that the needles pierce the top layer of thick cardboard. If there is no such roller, you can evenly apply many small, barely noticeable notches to the lower plane with a sharp knife;
3. The perforated side of the drywall should be moistened with plenty of water using a foam sponge, and leaned against vertical wall at an angle of 50-45°. Under the action of water, the gypsum filler will begin to soften, and the strip will gradually take on a curved shape;

1. After some time (20-25 minutes), when the water is absorbed, the strip must be carefully placed on the floor, once again moisten the top layer with water, then lean against the wall again and leave it alone for another 40-60 minutes;
2. After the strip becomes sufficiently plastic, it must be carefully attached with self-tapping screws to the sweat on both sides to the arc-shaped metal profiles;
3. You need to start fastening from the middle, and gradually move towards the edges, mirroring the screws, then from the right, then from the left side of the arch. To prevent the formation of creases and edges, the pitch between the screws should be no more than 80 mm;
4. The second method makes it easy to bend drywall dry, but in this case, small chopped edges form on the surface of the strip, which will later need to be additionally puttied;

1. Before installation, the strip must be laid on a flat hard surface. front side down, and on the reverse side with a sharp knife, make deep transverse cuts approximately to the middle of the drywall thickness;
2. In order to achieve uniform bending, the notches must be located strictly perpendicular to the center line of the strip, strictly parallel to each other, and at the same distance between them;
3. The finished strip must be attached to the arch of the arch with cuts upwards, and, just as in the first case, starting from the middle, fix it to the arcuate profiles with the help of self-tapping screws.

Though wet way bending drywall, at first glance it may seem more complicated, I recommend using it, because in this case a uniform arc without creases, a regular rounded shape, which requires almost no further refinement, is immediately obtained.

Stage 5. Preparation for finishing

Immediately after the do-it-yourself plasterboard door arch is made, it may seem ridiculous and scary, but do not be upset, because after completing the preparatory and finishing work, it will take on a completely different appearance.

1. First of all, it is necessary to cut off with a sharp knife all the protruding corners and irregularities at the ends of the drywall parts, and then process them with coarse-grained emery cloth, fixed in a special holder or on a flat wooden block;

1. In those places where drywall parts are joined together at right angles, it is necessary to fix perforated metal or plastic corners. They cover all the bumps and cracks, allow you to get the perfect right angle, and also provide additional strength of the corner joint;
2. At the junctions of two adjacent parts that are in the same plane, as well as at the junctions of the front panels with the plane of the main wall, you need to stick fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which is also called sickle in another way;

1. All self-tapping screws, joints, corners and cracks must be puttied in such a way that no reinforcing mesh, no corners, no joints, no fixing screws are visible on the surface. I advise you to use an acrylic drywall putty for this, which is sold completely ready for use;
2. After the first layer of putty has hardened, the arch must be sanded with a medium-grained emery cloth. At this stage, some irregularities or other defects will definitely appear, so after preliminary grinding it will have to be puttied again;
3. After the final drying of the second layer of putty, the surface must be sanded with a finer sandpaper, and after making sure that there are no defects, cover with one layer of a penetrating primer for drywall.

If you bent the drywall in a dry way, then to eliminate broken edges, the upper bent vault of the arch will need to be covered with a continuous layer of starting drywall putty. After drying, it will need to be sanded, and topped with another layer of finishing putty.

Conclusion

In this article, I fully talked about how to make a drywall arch in a doorway with my own hands, and deliberately did not mention a word about finishing. The thing is that the appearance and design of the arch should generally correspond to the concept of interior design. Therefore, the materials and method of decorative finishes, the owner of the home must choose for himself, based on his own tastes and personal preferences. To consolidate the knowledge gained, I suggest watching the video in this article, and if readers have questions, I will be happy to answer them in the comment form.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to make an arch in a doorway? This question interests many owners of apartments and private houses.

It should be noted right away that the arched opening can ideally look only in rooms with high ceilings.

At low ceilings such a structure visually significantly reduces the opening. Therefore, you should think carefully before deciding to build an arch. If you accepted it, then you can find a lot of materials to implement the idea.

Methods for constructing arches

How to make an arch instead of doors? Today there are such ways to create arches:

1. For an arched opening, a wall is hollowed out according to a pre-made markup. This method is more suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings.
2. With a sufficient height of ceilings and doorways, their upper part is sealed with pieces of drywall or plywood to give them an arched shape.

When chiselling a wall, proceed as follows:

1. You need to remove all decorative trim including door frame.
2. From the floor itself, a vertical line is marked on both sides of the opening to the height of the future arch. For accurate marking, use a level or plumb line.
3. The width of the marked opening is measured and divided in half. It turns out the value of the radius of the arch.
4. The center of the arch is marked on the upper horizontal line. A screw, self-tapping screw or nail is fixed at this point.
5. A strong thread is tied to a self-tapping screw, the other end is attached to a pencil. The excess thread is wound around a pencil, leaving a length equal to the radius of the arch.
6. A mark is made on the vertical from the center point of the line down at a radius distance.
7. A semicircle of the upper part of the arch is outlined.
8. On the other side of the wall, the marking operations are repeated.

Now you can start swotting with a puncher or other tool. The choice of tool depends on the material of the wall. It is recommended to drill as many holes as possible along the outlined contour. They will help in the chiseling process. V wooden wall the opening is cut with a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a narrow blade. Final stage preparatory work- processing the edges of the resulting opening and decorating it with prepared materials.

For high ceilings door arch You can, if you follow this sequence of actions:

1. In the opening, the frame of the future arch is assembled from wooden or metal profiles.
2. Drywall or other material is marked out from which rectangles need to be cut. Their width is equal to the radius of the arch, the length is equal to the width of the opening. Using a large compass or thread with a pencil, the upper arcs of the arch are marked and cut out with a jigsaw.
3. The resulting blanks are attached to the frame with hardened self-tapping screws. Their hats are recessed 0.5-1 mm into drywall.
4. The end of the opening is closed. You can do this with DVP. This material bends quite well. You can use a strip of drywall with a thickness of 8 mm. It is rolled several times with a spiked roller and sprinkled with water. Punctures are made to a depth of up to half the thickness of the drywall sheet.
5. If there is no needle roller, punctures can be made with an ordinary awl. The distance between them is about 1 cm. They are made only on the side where the part will be bent. After some time (approximately after 1-1.5 hours), the gypsum soaks and the strip bends quite easily. It is better to bend it on a wooden or plasterboard template. After drying, it becomes hard again.
6. Plasterboard putty and make out the arch at its discretion.

arch configurations

The arch in the house gives the premises a certain personality. Configurations and forms arched openings there are many. Let's consider some of them:

1. The classic version is suitable for rooms with a height of 3 m or more. The arch of the correct form has a bending radius of 45 cm or more. If you add it to the height of the doorway, then the total height of the room simply may not be enough.
2. The Art Nouveau arch is often erected in typical apartments. Its radius exceeds the width of the doorway, so there are corners between the vertical elements and the arc. They can be made sharp or rounded.
3. Romantic style - a variant of the arch for openings of large width. Between the corners with roundings, a horizontal insert can be placed, you can install it at an angle.

The configuration of the arch depends on the desire and aesthetic taste of the owner of the home. The arched opening can be wavy, polygonal, illuminated, with various niches and shelves, with stained-glass windows, and so on.

Materials for equipment arches

Arched opening can be made from monolithic concrete, plastic, brick, metal, wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, drywall sheets and other materials. When using brick, concrete or stone, their weight must be taken into account. For such structures, a special foundation and reinforcing elements for bonding with walls may be required.

Metal is a material that fits into any style. But not every metal is suitable for these purposes. Option from of stainless steel is very expensive. Galvanized iron in the interior does not look. It is quite difficult to make complex figures out of metal.

Wood is a beautiful material of natural origin. It practically does not require additional finishing.

The best processed and allow you to perform arches of any shape drywall, fiberboard and particle board. These Construction Materials can be finished with plaster, painted, covered with a layer of decorative or conventional plaster, paste over with wallpaper, veneer with decorative stone.

Plastic is a material that is easy to process. Plastic structures do not require additional processing and finishing.

For the design of arches are sold and prefabricated structures from different materials.

1. The appearance of the arch should match the overall design of the room. Each side of the opening can be decorated in different ways.
2. Any work on the construction of arched openings begins with dismantling door frame.
3. For convenience and speed up the marking process, it is recommended to use a full-size template. It can be made from cardboard.
4. When constructing curved frame elements from metal profiles, slots are made on them, which allow the workpiece to be bent. The cuts are made in increments of about 5 cm.
5. For work, a drill or a puncher, a hammer, scissors for iron and a hacksaw are usually used. Sometimes other tools may be needed.
6. The frame is attached 10-12 mm deep into the doorway so that the drywall attached to it is flush with the wall after puttying.
7. The assembled structure is treated with sandpaper and putty. Surfaces and corners can be covered with fiberglass mesh.

And why not leave an open doorway instead?

The fact is that rectangular structures hanging over your head create strong psychological discomfort. It is much more pleasant for us to see towering vaults above us, which resemble the bent crowns of trees in a park or sea waves. There are no rectangles in nature, all lines are natural, lively and streamlined. Therefore, since ancient times, architects have sought to repeat natural lines so that a person in any building feels calm and secure.

Types of arches

There are arches different kind. Separately distinguish the classic arch. It has not changed its shape for centuries. The classic arch has a radius equal to half the width of the opening and characteristic decorative elements. The perimeter of the opening has a trim made of stucco or similar materials. In the center of the vault, the arch forms a kind of decorative element- capstone. The side parts of such an arch are often made in the form of columns, on which the base and capitals are clearly visible. The classic arch is always appropriate in the appropriate interiors.

In styles that are not related to the classics, the following types of arches are most popular:

1. Gothic - formed by two arcs that intersect under acute angle and look like an arrow.
2. Moroccan - strongly elongated in the center. This type of arch is common in Spanish and Moorish architecture.
3. Oriental or Arabic style arches are characterized by an opening in the form of an onion or keel of an inverted boat. This type finds its application in the architecture of India and the Muslim countries of the Near and Middle East. Echoes of the style can be seen in ancient Russian religious buildings.
4. Art Nouveau is distinguished by unusual forms, among which asymmetry is popular.

Modern democratic style allows the most unexpected forms and design finds. Widely used asymmetry, mixing styles and materials for decoration.

Bring to life any design idea allow new construction and Decoration Materials- drywall, which is mounted on a frame made of wood or a metal profile. These materials do not require the involvement of specialists with professional tools.

All work on the installation of drywall arches is easy to do on your own.

Arch as a way of zoning

Creation interior arch- This is a convenient and practical way of zoning space. With its help, you can both highlight separate zones in one room or studio apartment, and combine small rooms into one.

Most often, arches are arranged in hallways, removing the door that darkens the room. A small hallway in this case visually merges with the next room, especially if the same finishing materials were used for them. For example, the same tiles are laid on the floor in the hallway and in the kitchen, and the room is separated with laminate or parquet. If a separate room is allocated for the dining room in an apartment or house, an interior arch between it and the kitchen will be much more appropriate, since the hostess will often have to walk between them with dishes in her hands.

When combining a balcony or loggia with a room, decorate the doorway in the form of an arch.

By building regulations demolish the carrier outer wall is prohibited, and the device of the arch will allow you not to break the rules and give zest to the interior. Below we will describe how to make an arch in a doorway.

If the arch will stand in a room with high humidity, you should purchase the appropriate drywall - its green sheets. Ordinary material under conditions high humidity after a few years it will lose its shape.

We build an arch with our own hands

Such an arch is easy to create in any room - in the kitchen, hallway or living room. If you have very little experience in finishing work, we suggest you make an arch with your own hands using step-by-step instructions and photos.

Prepare your tools ahead of time:

• scissors for metal work;
• knife;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• grater or grout;
• joiner's square;
• pencil.

Materials:

• drywall or wooden bars
• metallic profile;
• plywood sheet;
• self-tapping screws for drywall;
• putty and plaster;
• paper tape.

Also, do not forget about personal protective equipment - goggles and a respirator.

When everything for work is prepared and a place for the future arch is chosen, the doorway should be measured. Given the size of the opening, draw the desired shape of the arch on the drywall sheet. This stage is the most responsible, so you should approach it seriously. A curve of the desired radius can be drawn by screwing a self-tapping screw into the drywall with a rope tied to it. The length of the rope should be equal to the length of the radius. When the contours of the arch are drawn on a sheet of drywall, do not forget the old rule:

Seven times measure cut once.

Cut the future arch along the contours with a jigsaw or a special drywall hacksaw. Carefully secure the sheet before cutting so that it does not move. Once the drywall has been cut, it can be set aside. It's time to make the frame. As we remember, it is made from a metal profile or wooden beam. The frame from the profile is more suitable for brick walls, and bars for wooden.

Installation of a metal frame

In order to make a drywall arch, first mount its frame. Guides of the required length are cut out of the profile and fixed to the wall as shown in the photo.

If the profile is attached to a concrete wall, holes must be drilled in it and dowels hammered in with a hammer, into which self-tapping screws are then screwed. To fasten the profile to a wooden wall, use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 4–5 cm. Optimal distance between them - 10-12 cm.

After fixing the guides, measure the profile segment for the lower edge of the arch. Since the arch has a curved shape, the profile segment will also have to be bent. To do this, its sides are cut with scissors for metal and carefully bent, each time trying on the cut out part of the drywall arch. This process looks like this:

Next, the bent part is attached to the rails either directly or using direct hangers, as in the drawing below.

Suspensions are needed for rigid fastening of the lower part of the arch. Next, the side parts of the arch, cut out of drywall, are screwed to the frame. The easiest way to do this is with a screwdriver.

Then, at several points, jumpers should be installed connecting both side walls of the arch to each other.

Installation of a wooden frame

If it is decided to make an interior arch made of wood, then first you need to determine the thickness of the wooden bars. Measure the width of the opening and subtract the thickness of the plywood and drywall from it, the resulting figure will be the thickness of the bar. Using a jigsaw, cut out the sides of the arch from plywood.

Fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws. It should turn out something like this.

Installation of the lower part of the arch

After installing the side parts of the arch, it was the turn to sew up the opening from below. Using a tape measure, measure the length and width of the bottom and draw it on drywall. Since the lower part has a curved shape, the material will have to be bent. To do this, draw parallel lines across the strip with a pencil. The distance between them should be about 10 cm.

Cut the paper along the lines with a knife. Attach the drywall to the bottom of the arch with the notches facing up and gradually shape it into the desired shape with smooth, slow movements.

When bending drywall, do not apply too much force so that the material does not break.

Next, align the edges and fix the bottom with self-tapping screws.

After fixing the lower part, use a knife to clean up any bumps on the drywall.

Arch finishing

In order for the joints and attachment points of the self-tapping screws not to shine through, they are glued paper tape or masking tape. Level with putty in several layers and grind each layer with an abrasive of the desired grain size. For puttying use acrylic putty for interior work or special for drywall. Putty is applied with a spatula and leveled with grout.

If in the process of breaking the doorway from concrete wall large pieces broke off, plaster is used. Unlike putty, it can be applied in a thick layer. After the plaster has dried, the surface is leveled with a thin layer of putty.

To prevent cracking, a mounting grid is strengthened over the putty.

Lastly, a finishing layer of putty is applied to cover the mesh. After drying, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned. If the mesh is still visible after drying, another layer of material is applied. The result should be a perfectly flat white surface.

Now the interior arch, made of drywall with your own hands, is ready for decorative finishing.

Examples of using arches in design

See the best and beautiful examples plasterboard arches in interior design.

Arch complex shape with shelves connects the room with a balcony.

Lamps are mounted in this arch between the room and the hallway. It turned out to be a spacious and bright room.

On the next photo an arch leads to the kitchen instead of a door.

In the hallway, all doors are replaced by arches.

The photo clearly shows how the creation of an interior arch ennobles the room and emphasizes the beauty of the interior

Installing a prefabricated arch in a simple way - video

The transformation of the interior of the premises is being done different ways. One of them is replacing the door with an arch. There are several technologies for its arrangement, but if you look in detail, then almost all of them are similar and quite feasible. on your own. Moreover, it is possible to mount both purchased elements of the “arch” and those made independently.

Preparatory activities

Choosing an arch type

Experts recommend focusing on the height of the ceiling and the general style of finishing the room. Options arched structures a few, but most of them reduce the opening by installing a supporting frame by about 150 - 200 mm.

• With low ceilings, it is hardly worth getting rid of interior doors. At the very least, it should be well thought out. The only possible option for finishing the opening after their dismantling is plastering followed by pasting (wallpaper, fabric) to match the walls. Building an arch in this way is quite simple; it is only necessary to correctly process the end parts of the passage. But this option The design of the room has a significant disadvantage, and therefore does not suit everyone - the absence of a crate makes it impossible to install hidden spotlights in the opening.
• In some articles on the subject of making an arch, there are recommendations for giving the desired geometry to the passage between rooms using cellular blocks, bricks, or the method of concreting. Not to mention the complexity of such work, it is worth considering the additional load on the floor. And since you still have to deal with the solution, then for an apartment - not the best option.

But if the decision is made, then you should take into account the features of the interior of the home. This will help you correctly identify optimal type arches.

• Classical. The upper part is an arc with a constant radius (semicircle). It is relatively easy to make, as it is different correct geometry. But it is advisable to mount it only in the openings between rooms with high ceilings.
• "Modern", "Romatica" are well suited for multi-storey buildings. The last type of arches has a large width, and therefore are recommended for installation in the opening leading from the hall to the hallway.
• "Portal". The fundamental difference from others is that it is a rectangular arch. It is advisable to install it in private buildings. In relation to the apartment, it looks great, but only if the style of the room is dominated by straight lines. A significant advantage of this design is that it is mounted without much difficulty, even in the absence of skills.
• "Ellipse" and "Trapeze" have a more original shape. When deciding how to make an arch in a doorway according to one of these schemes, it is worth considering that the correct geometry largely depends on the accuracy of calculating the parameters of all elements and radii (corners).

There are other design options for openings: Venetian, Florentine, with "shoulders" and a number of others. But to build an interior arch of any of these varieties is so difficult that for self-assembly they should not be chosen.

Material selection

• Frame. There are only two options here - wooden slats and metal profile. It is more difficult to work with the first ones, especially if the vault has a geometry with changing parameters. Bending wood is not only a complex process, but also a long one. In addition, the tree absorbs moisture well, is prone to drying out, and therefore deformation cannot be avoided. In this regard, a door arch assembled on a metal frame is more durable and reliable.

• Facing. Panels made of plastic or chipboard with lamination look great, besides, they do not require further finishing. The downside is that it is difficult to choose their shade for a specific interior; besides, such an arch will be more expensive. It is better to use elements from fiberboard, plywood (small thickness) or gypsum board. Work with data sheet materials(cutting, bending) is much easier. Plus, the finish can be made any, at your discretion.

• Must have experience working with wood. It is difficult to bend and, in some cases, process. For example, the selection of grooves, quarters without special tools and fixtures is not done.
• Lumber still needs to be properly selected. First of all, by breed. Each is different characteristic features, and the use largely depends on the specifics of the room in terms of microclimate.

Operating procedure

1. Removing the door frame. The opening must be completely cleared; not only from the frame with the sash, but also from sealing / insulating materials.

1. Markup. There is one caveat to note at this point; the ends of the wall must be strong. And therefore, if it does not meet this requirement in a separate area, you will have to think about either strengthening it (for example, with a corner), or additional sampling of a part of the material with subsequent alignment. But in the latter case, the size of the opening will increase. This is typical for houses made of wood, if it is found that rot has developed on a beam (log).

• Dimensions should be taken at several levels. Even if the skew is visually and imperceptible, then when the door arch is mounted with your own hands, difficulties may arise.
• Many discrepancies raise the question of what to do first - draw up a drawing of the arch or determine the dimensions of the opening. Here it is worth focusing on local specifics. If the material of the walls is easy to process, then it is not difficult to expand the opening. V otherwise design parameters will have to be "customized" to it.

1. Support frame attachment. It is assembled in several stages.

• Arrangement of the main circuit. In accordance with the drawing, all external rails of the vertical installation are “fastened” to the wall.
• Fastening "vault". Additionally, the upper part of the arch is fixed with hangers, which are located symmetrically across the entire width of the opening.

• Strengthening the frame. For this, transverse elements are used that are installed along the arch along its entire profile. Approximately - 50 ± 10 cm apart. For GCR, a maximum is also sufficient (about 55 - 60), but if the lining is done with a board, then the interval should be reduced to 45 - 50.

• Closing gaps. In fact, this is one of the ways to insulate the opening. Depending on the material of the wall and frame, the appropriate agent is selected - mortar, polyurethane foam, putty or otherwise.

1. Wiring. As a rule, all arched openings are highlighted. That is why the lines are mounted even before the frame is finished.

1. Structural cladding. The specifics of fixing the skin elements depends on their material. But they are attached to the rails of the metal profile with self-tapping screws; the simplest and convenient way. It is only necessary to outline the location of the holes and drill channels for the hardware.

1. Finishing the arch

• Putty application. This is necessary to smooth out the roughness.
• Soil treatment. Such products simultaneously increase the water-repellent properties of the base and the adhesion of the material.
• Strengthening the finish (if necessary). The edges of the GKL are reinforced with a small corner (made of plastic, with perforation), the surface itself is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh that is glued.
• Reapplication of putty and primer.
• Grinding.
• Finish coating. Possible options- paints and varnishes, decorative films, veneer, wallpaper, stucco, mirrors. There are no stereotypes - your own imagination will tell you what kind to give the opening.

In principle, the process of mounting and finishing the arch for an economic man is not difficult. And if we take into account in advance such a moment as the maintainability of the structure, then they will not arise in the future.