It will be cheaper in the house than installing a stone stove with your own hands, since the cost of a stone is higher than a brick. If there is no desire to build a brick stove or there is no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance, the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction provides for the construction of the foundation.

The foundation for the stove must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of the rise of heaving soil under the building. Next, a furnace is erected using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should brick ovens be folded

Figure 1. Ordering the brick oven.

You can prepare a masonry solution in a special container. In any case, you should have at hand a building level for even masonry, since each row should have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the oven for masonry, one should highlight:

• sand;
• clay;
• red solid brick;
• roofing material;
• grate grate;
• pipe;
• wood;
• gravel;
• cement.

Before laying the stove, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for the construction of a brick stove, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Then they immediately start with the preparation of the masonry mortar. Do not use concrete for this. Usually, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A - spoon row; B - butt row.

The clay must be softened before using it. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days so that it softens. In the process of preparing the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various stones and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly provide an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace, its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it loses its beneficial features, therefore, the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality masonry of the stove, a preliminary layout of bricks must be done, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. All work should be based on referring to the scheme of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the mortar allows you to carefully cover each seam.

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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed oven according to the corresponding finished drawing is laid out on a separately erected foundation, as noted above. The principle of the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation is poured from the preparation of the pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, it can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer of broken brick or stone on it. The size of this layer should be 15 cm high, and rubble is poured over it. To create a removable formwork, specially prepared boards are used, hammered together. The formwork must be made strong, as it must withstand the pouring of concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the frozen concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing material. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing foundation slabs. The remaining space between the foundation and the ground should be covered with coarse sand or a layer of gravel.

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How to make a brick oven in a house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney masonry.

Tips for laying brick ovens.

The principle of laying the stove can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

1. Foundation slab device.
2. Sub-furnace device.
3. Furnace laying in rows in accordance with the ordering scheme.
4. Arrangement of the grate grate.
5. Fitting bricks.
6. Furnace door device.

Among the recommendations for laying a stove in a house, a number of basic ones can be distinguished. For example, the grate should be mounted in the stove without resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise, when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the furnace must be equipped with waterproofing. The base of the foundation should protrude at least 10 cm. A stackable stove is usually a defined space on the front outer wall of the stove, equipped with an opening for storing inventory.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there is no formation of gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the rear wall of the furnace. When covering the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed at the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left bar is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord in all contact points. Fix the fire door with three layers of galvanized wire. The use of high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.

Before laying, bricks must be moistened with water, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a sample. It will help to check the quality of brickwork corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.

The construction of a brick oven is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. You can build it yourself, however, in this case, you should be extremely careful and accurately follow the bricklaying scheme (order). If for you, this is the first laying of a brick oven with your own hands, then it is better to get detailed advice from a specialist or lay out the oven under his guidance.

Choosing a brick oven

In large private houses and cottages, boilers with water heating are most often used for heating. For heating buildings with 2-3 living quarters, it is enough to build a brick oven. It not only keeps heat much longer, but also creates a special microclimate in the room and can become a real decoration of the house. However, the brick oven also has a significant drawback: this structure is very large and takes up too much space.

There are several types of brick ovens:
in the rating of such constructions Swede deservedly takes the first place; it is compact, has a hob and is equipped with three-channel shield(a heat exchanger that allows you to keep heat for a long time, in the form of a wall with chimneys inside, can simultaneously play the role load-bearing wall or located separately); their varieties include the designs of Kuznetsov, Buslaev, etc.;

The appearance of the Swedish stove and the construction of a wall with a three-channel shield

Despite its name, dutch oven with vertical chimneys(channels in which heat is stored and through which smoke is removed) was invented by Russian craftsmen; has a high heat transfer; usually has 2 channels: summer and winter, which simplify kindling after a long break; in the classic versions, the hob is not provided, however, there are variations of stoves both with a built-in fireplace and with a hob;

Classic Dutch stove with vertical chimneys

Chimneys with vertical (like a Dutch woman) and horizontal arrangement of channels

Russian stove keeps warm for a very long time: up to 2-3 days; has a gas threshold (wall between the chamber and the mouth of the furnace); it warms up for a very long time, and it takes up plenty of space, its dimensions are such that several people can simultaneously fit on its bed; that's why in last years such constructions are used quite rarely.

Russian stove

By wall thickness all ovens are divided into:

Thin-walled: in one brick, ideal for suburban buildings;

Thick-walled: erected in rooms intended for permanent residence keep warm for a long time;

Combined: thick walls are laid out only in the firebox; the chimney has thin walls.

Single and double bell furnaces Kuznetsova is one of the most common variations of the Swedish oven. Unlike conventional channel, the exit of hot gases through the chimneys is carried out not only due to the draft, but also naturally due to the special design smoke ducts... The smoke in them first rises up, and when it cools down, it goes down. Since there are much less heat leaks in them (after all warm air until it cools down, cannot find a way out), such ovens are capable of storing heat for a long time.

Bell chimney diagram

A brick oven may not be finished or sewn up with metal, plastered, laid out ceramic tiles or facing stone or fit under the jointing (with sealing and giving the seams a special shape).

Oven joining

Furnace finishes

Does the oven need a foundation?

Brick is a fairly heavy material. The weight of the folded stove can reach 8-10 tons, therefore, the foundation for the stove needs a solid one. V otherwise due to movements in the soil and its expansion during freezing, cracks may form in it or it may collapse completely. Sometimes, for a more uniform shrinkage in the presence of several stoves or fireplaces in the house, separate bases are made not only for them, but also for the root (located in a separate area) chimney.

Furnace foundation

Since the subsidence of the soil under the stove and the house will be different, the foundation for such a structure should be erected separately from the base of the structure itself. Between the main and furnace foundations, a gap of 50 mm or more must be made, which is filled with sand.

If the furnace is being erected in an already constructed building, it is allowed to install a structure weighing up to 1200 kg (300-350 bricks) on the floor panel. On wooden floor erection of structures up to 700 kg is permissible.

The best base for a massive heating stove is concrete. For M400 cement, the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone will be 1: 3: 5. When using the M250 brand, the proportions change: 1: 2: 4. The depth of the concrete pad depends on the weight of the furnace, the density of the soil and the depth of soil freezing. It will be different in each region of Russia (see photo).

The depth of soil freezing

1. The foundation should protrude from the edges of the oven to each side by a brick (10-15 cm). For the firebox, this distance can be slightly larger - up to 30 cm.

2. The bottom of the pit prepared for the foundation is rammed. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

3. Before laying the mortar, a 10-cm cushion of crushed stone and 15 cm of rubble stone is poured into the pit. All the free space between the stones is also filled with rubble and filled with mortar.

5. So that the solution does not crack during the drying process, it is poured into the pit in layers, while each layer must withstand at least a day.

6. After removing the formwork, the resulting gaps are filled with sand, spilled with water and carefully tamped.

Laying the foundation for the furnace at the stage of building construction

Important! A massive furnace should be erected only after the solution has completely solidified. The foundation gains 50% strength after 15 days. The final hardening occurs only after 28 days.

Masonry tools

For work you will need:

A trowel for scooping and laying mortar; the most convenient tool in work is with the handle slightly shifted to the side;

Pickaxe or hammer-pickaxe: for heaving incomplete bricks;

Bulgarian with diamond disc for sawing them into halves and quarters;

A mallet with a rubber tip for tamping bricks in the stack;

Twisted cord mooring;

Plumb line for checking vertical surfaces;

Building level;

A square with which the corners will be verified;

Roulette.

Furnace masonry tools

To align walls and corners, you can use a mooring cord and a metal corner

Masonry mortar

The cement mixture under the influence of high temperatures quickly cracks, therefore, only clay-sand mortar... For the device of a pipe passing through the attic, use lime or lime cement mortar... The cement-sand mixture is used only for laying pipes above the roof.

The ratio of clay and sifted sand is selected experimentally. It depends on the type of clay. Most often, mixtures of 1: 2 or 1: 3 are used. Moreover, the fatter the clay, the less it should be in the solution. First, the clay is soaked, filtered through a sieve, and only then sand is added.

The solution should have a fairly thick sour cream consistency. You can determine the viscosity of the mixture as follows. Wooden stick or the trowel is dipped into the solution and shaken. If a layer less than 2 mm thick remains on it, clay is added, more than 3 mm - sand is added. A too greasy solution will lead to cracking of the masonry seam; with a lack of clay, sand will spill out of the seams.

Secrets of brickwork

It is better to lay the oven out of refractory fireclay bricks ... To save money, you can lay out only a firebox for them, for the rest of the furnace, use a regular silicate one. However, it is not recommended to combine them in one bundle, as well as bricks from different manufacturers: with temperature drops, the degree of their expansion will be different, therefore, such a furnace can "lead". Unstable hollow brick for masonry is not used.

Types, sizes and weight of bricks

1. For the device of stoves, orders are used: detailed diagrams, in which the process of laying each row is indicated. The location of fireclay refractory bricks in the furnace in such schemes is indicated by shading or highlighted in color. Changing the order unnecessarily is strongly discouraged: deviations in the circuit can lead to narrowing of the smoke ducts.

Layout of fireclay for the furnace and chimneys and silicate bricks

2. Before laying bricks, 2 layers are placed on the base waterproofing: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with mastic. To protect the solution from dehydration, the brick is soaked in water for a couple of minutes.

3. Its first row is laid out dry without mortar. Further, the calculation is carried out with overlapping joints the previous row. Each joint must be completely filled with mortar, without voids and cavities.

4. The row is laid from the corners (see photo). After that, the entire row is repositioned between the two corner bricks.

Laying a row

5. Each row is checked building level for the correspondence of the horizontal and vertical.

6. To avoid mistakes, the row is first laid out without mortar. Then the serial number of each of the bricks is signed with chalk, they are removed and the finishing masonry begins. Not only horizontal, but also all vertical seams are coated with a solution with a layer of 3-5 mm.

Important! When laying smoke ducts, halves and quarters of bricks should not be used. If they fall out, it will be problematic to get them out of the chimney. It is better to use parts of bricks in the uppermost rows of the structure.

7. The hob and grate are positioned with a 5 mm gap to compensate for thermal expansion.

8. Doors of the firebox and ashtray are insulated with asbestos and additionally fastened to the wire, which is laid in the seams of the masonry. For its fastening in a cast-iron frame, special holes are necessarily provided.

Fastening the oven doors

9. The walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth and even. Lumps of soot will accumulate at the joints and chips of bricks, therefore, only perfectly flat bricks without defects are used to arrange smoke ducts. Remains of the solution in such places should be immediately wiped off with a rag or rag.

10. When erecting a pipe, the most difficult part is the section passing through attic floor... The walls in this place increase so that their width exceeds 38 cm, while the chimney section remains unchanged.

The diagrams below provide ordering a small Swedish oven for 570 bricks with a hob. For the device of such an oven you will also need:

Cast iron stove with two burners;

Cast iron doors for the firebox and blower device;

3 cleaning doors for removing soot;

2 latches;

Metal oven;

Corner,

Steel strip for overlapping the brewing cavity.

Video: Laying a brick oven with your own hands

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When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Heating the house is handled by modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of the design, and is economical heater... It is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker for laying the stove. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and experienced stove-makers very little. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?"

Laying the stove correctly takes a lot of effort and also has to learn a lot of instructions for laying brick stoves.

Varieties of ovens

The first step is to choose the oven that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch
• Russian;
• Swede.

Dutch woman

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require a lot of space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the stove bench, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and just below the blower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove will easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters... But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials are required.

Swede

Refers to compact options... In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The peculiarity of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced by using dampers.

Building rules

Homemade stove must meet the requirement fire safety... Therefore, you need to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.

• Decide on the location of the oven.
• Prepare the correct drawing.
• Buy quality materials for construction.
• Purchase of tools.
• Draw up a cost estimate.

Correctly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready plans can be found on the internet.

When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of oven. It is difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it is easier to use a reduced model of a brick oven, a photo of which is on the Internet.

Choice of working tools

Measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used when storing the stove:

• Joining - floods the mortar into the joints and gives the joints an aesthetic look. It is useful if the stove is left without cladding or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Pickaxe hammer.
• Mortar shovel.
• Plumb line.
• Stove ruler.

Materials (edit)

The heat dissipation and durability of the stove will depend on the material used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - M-500 brands. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to bricks, it is used:

• Sifted sand.
• Clay is of normal fat content.

Furnace foundation

The basis for homemade oven done at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a solid foundation

Dig a hole first. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all the free space is poured with concrete mortar, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontalness with the help of a building level.

After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is put in and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of bricks;
• rebuild the formwork, pouring it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.

Recipe for concrete mortar - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

Masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. The clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sieved through a sieve.

Going first outer layer which is made of bricks and then the middle. There should be no voids in the joints, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built using solid bricks. First row stitches require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke ducts. The chimney is built of red baked bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a "lock" layout.

Photo of brick ovens

It is not difficult to lay a brick stove, which is always ready to warm any home, yourself. You just need to learn some of the subtleties of construction brick stoves and use the acquired knowledge correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is it better to do it?

By functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. The cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in summer cottages and in small private houses in which people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is capable of heating a small area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating ones are designed exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, due to which they are usually very compact in size. Cooking and heating - a combination of the first two types of brick ovens, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often, such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke when kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions stay in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to fold the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

• You can not build a heating device near outer wall residential building due to the fact that it will become very quickly cooled down due to the influence of cold air outside.
• They put the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of ​​the dwelling is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall, or mounted directly under it, is more suitable.
• To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly drawn up ordering scheme for a specific type of oven.
• If the stove is being built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with high rate heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on separate foundation. Moreover, he should not have a connection (mechanical) with the foundation of the structure (this requirement must be observed even when the house and the stove are being built together).

We make a foundation and choose a brick for building a furnace

If a stove of relatively small size is being built in an already operated house with a tiled concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing base. On the concrete floor, you will only need to lay roofing material.

When the flooring is made of wood or the house is standing on strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself according to the following scheme:

1. We mark on the floor a place for the future brick stove.
2. Remove the marked part flooring and we dig a foundation pit in the ground under it (its depth should be about half a meter).
3. At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - rubble (the same thickness), tamp the resulting "pillow".
4. We put a plank around the perimeter of the pit (it is raised by about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
5. Fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, wait for it to harden.
6. Fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit is firmly seized), which it is desirable to make more "thin" (add a little more water to it).

After that, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation with the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and buy a brick, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, they use refractory, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks, as well as hand-molded products. All of these materials should be selected for markings that indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be built from special products of the M150 – M200 grades, which have:

• uniform color;
• straight edges with no chips and cracks;
• geometrically correct shape;
• dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with just such parameters, since most of the ordering schemes are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than oven bricks. But be prepared for the fact that the fireclay furnace will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This must be done. This finish is also recommended for heating structures made of special oven bricks.

Masonry oven mortars - what should they be?

Before you fold the stove with your own hands, you should deal with the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually use masonry mortars based on sand and clay (white kaolin or chamotte marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you sense that there is a smell (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for laying the stove. Any sand is taken, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined empirically by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

• 1 kg of clay is poured with plain water and left for 24 hours until the composition turns sour;
• knead the clay to the state of plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
• divide the batch into 3-5 parts and add sand to its different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
• mix the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples should be carefully rolled out into 30-40 cm long "sausages" with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around some round billet of a larger diameter. After that, they wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). It remains only to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the "sausage" or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this sample. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280-300 ° C. If the "sausages" are covered with gaps and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for performing oven work at a hardware store. You do not want to bother with creating the "ideal" mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the ordering scheme you have chosen for a specific model of the stove structure, as well as to decide on the type of masonry. Common ways of installing bricks are with empty seams and undercut. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - there is a solution in it in all the seams made. But when working with empty seams, plastering the built furnace is a mandatory operation.

In order not to make fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are advised to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between the rows of bricks. In fact, the slats "replace" the solution.

After you build the entire oven dry, and make sure you did everything right, start disassembling the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will take place many times faster.

• vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar in order to avoid the likelihood of delamination of the structure;
• each brick in the masonry must be supported by at least two others;
• the smallest joint width is 2 mm;
• you need to bandage all rows vertically;
• the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken about 5-7 mm, after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2-3 mm (it is allowed to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
• using ceramic bricks they are dipped for a couple of seconds in plain water, thanks to which they adhere to the solution without any problems, there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
• Before laying bricks, dust and crumbs should be cleaned with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

Several Yet important points... The bricks are laid in the designated place one by one. If the stone has gone "by", it must be removed, removed from the clay-sand mixture, and then put back. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is no longer used.

We carry out the laying of the stove on our own using an understandable and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully aligned and the locations of all doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After that, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the mortar.

We use a level to accurately align the position of bricks horizontally, as well as a tape measure to check the dimensions of the structure under construction in the diagonal and plan. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of the brick oven during its construction is controlled by a simple device - plumb lines, stretched on a string from the ceiling to the oven corners. Lines made in this way will be an excellent guideline for masonry. After completing the first row, we carry out the laying of the second row in a similar way:

• we put stones in their place in the corners;
• we check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
• lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way, we lay the third and subsequent rows of bricks. Do not forget to constantly check with the oven construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the external and internal parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of furnace, choose the location of the firebox, blower, ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the blower compartment is made most often after the third row of bricks, the ash pan - after the fifth.

When laying the stove, an important principle of dressing the stones used should be adhered to, which involves blocking the next row of each vertical seam with a brick. It is desirable that the vertical joint is located clearly in the center of the next row of bricks. In practice, such an "idyll" is rarely achieved. In this case, try to shift the seam by a maximum of a quarter of a stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide a small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, a brick oven is not so difficult to lay out with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the oven, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install a blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay the grate 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut a niche in the bricks so that there is a one centimeter gap around the grate perimeter.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke damper, which, when open, ensures the summer mode of the furnace.
We will install a furnace door with a size of 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We will grind the edges of the brick in the form of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, place half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

We will cut grooves in bricks for installation kitchen stove size 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Let's grind off the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete perception of the masonry process

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and diagrams of ovens for the home

1.Scheme of masonry heating stove from two tiers
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of ovens for a house with a predominant bottom heating
4. The brickwork of the furnace, developed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Bricklaying of the stove, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conditionally heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heating units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved, based on the latest technologies models of heating devices.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the house are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year, there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or alter them.

Nowadays, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, which have characteristic advantages, do not serve to heat rooms, but to give the interior a unique and distinctive character.

Layout of the heating stove masonry from two tiers

The device of bunk heating stoves, shown in the photo, is a structure of two parts, located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer from the bottom of the furnace is 3200 kcal / hour, and the top is 2600 kcal / hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick lining with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of the bunk ovens have exactly the same design.

In such heating units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the layout of the stove, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling down, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, they go through the roll-up into the stacked chimney.
At the bottom oven chimney passes through the top half of the structure. For this reason, the latter has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of a two-tier heating furnace is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the gas movement scheme is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in bunk heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural mass.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick stove with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating two-tier structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even if the two smoke dampers are closed.

If desired, you can combine into a single array different types ovens having a rectangular or square shape and functioning on different types fuel.

Diy oven laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed system of smoke circulation. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is equal to 4200 kcal / hour.

Heating furnaces square shape with bottom heating assumes that the firebox in it has a relatively high height.

Side holes (2 each) located symmetrically on both sides are used to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas is then lowered through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower rolls and go up through them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper dome, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the stacked chimney and escapes into the atmosphere. Read also: “ Heating stoves on working off ".

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with bottom heating have 3 hoods - the upper hood and 2 big size cameras.

Any type of solid fuel can be used in such a heating structure.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Furnace schemes for a house with predominant bottom heating

If heating structure It has a predominant lower heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeter with a heat transfer rate of 2640 kcal / hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined channel heating unit with bottom heating.

When the schema is created stove heating a private house with the help of such a design, it is understood that the flue gases will first descend from the firebox, and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: "Kuznetsov's heating stoves: drawings and ordering with your own hands").

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go to the last of the risers, which turns into the chimney.

The above design is different rational decision and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulation of gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a bell with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The brickwork of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go out into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry, designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

Shown in the photo, a channelless scheme for laying a heating stove was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is housed in a case made of sheet steel. The gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but due to the force of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases descend to the bottom, and hot light ones rise to the top.

This device of a stove for a house consists of two parts - a firebox is located at the bottom.

In its ceiling there is a small hail (mouth), which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and, under the influence of the draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling in the direction of the arch, there are buttresses designed to increase inner surface heat absorption and for better heat absorption by the brick mass from the flue gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the structure developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to carry out masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, moreover, the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven for the house is better - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this oven is not difficult.

Its advantages are as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the chimney is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool from cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the high is not cooled.

As for the disadvantages of the scheme of stoves for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To slightly level this minus, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the gaps between the buttresses will be clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the hood should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal oven."

Furnace masonry, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Furnace schemes for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collecting channel into the smoke stack. If the smoke damper is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has a 3/4 brick outer wall. The rest of its walls are placed in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace of engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are sent to it. Down the oven, they will fall completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: “ Gas stove for home - comfortable heating ").

Smoke systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and thereby facilitate the maintenance of the combustion chamber by draining slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. Smoke in the structure is discharged into a casing pipe.

To date, these brick ovens are preferred to build by the owners of country houses and summer cottages.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number of different types of new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting diagram of a stove for a home is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

First we lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using a level, checking the horizontal position. With light blows from a mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks and mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the oven in plan and diagonal. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on a mortar.

Having laid the first row, we put the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer in the corners into the seam between the first and second row nails 80-100mm long.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately at all corners of the second row and mark the points on the ceiling from which the plumb line is lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace is obtained in space. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of masonry, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of the excess of the squeezed out solution with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the oven masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The mortar should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of binding bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with bricks from the next top row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always possible to achieve. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the brick length.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Ligation of the seams of fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the firebox is lined on the edge. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for the tightness of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate any defects found before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the openings of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place of installation of the door. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontalness and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the seams of the masonry.

Installing the grate

When installing oven appliances it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This is especially true for the behavior of devices installed in a high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the oven masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the firebox

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped in asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontalness of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the oven is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the upper part of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude from the door frame by 100-120 mm.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or brick in the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installing the stove

The row on which it will be installed, we lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord in it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, making it horizontal in level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of solution of 25-30 mm to prevent the oven walls from burning out.

Laying of arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to close various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using simple and complex shape... The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the arch must be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of an arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photos show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you, I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens", which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or to the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay the base of the stove, you should check the possibility of switching the chimney between load-bearing beams in the attic and tiled.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the stove must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the cut and swelling sites. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements houses and smoke should be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the oven is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the brick surface will appear as a white coating.
The mortar sand should be used by the quarry (not the river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface which makes the mortar brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts load-bearing structures home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making brick bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid foundation, horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured from above and leveled, and the first colorless brick is placed. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first line is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check for flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, in order to ensure that the furnace box is vertical, you need to pull out strings with a thickness of 1-3 mm at the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are defined by the tow line. Above, the water line descends so that the weight drops to the top of the outside corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail tilts, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical line of the rope is exposed to the action of the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place the strips for laying around the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a kick from the handle. Remove the spacers after the solution has dried.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with the help of the Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as the brick is more susceptible to collapse.
Parts of the cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area that changes the direction of flow of the smoky bottom, the door is always defined as a cleaning opening, or better, "pushing the brick" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the doorframe or oven, but is locked over them or made with a wedge-shaped lock or vaulted roof.

This is done to facilitate the replacement of an unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer break from this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar, or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use 5 mm asbestos that you come into contact with in the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are placed with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on the asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under the smoke of smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the grooves of the firebox, and the ash will be difficult to clear when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with twin wires.

At the other ends of the twist, past the nail and pull the wire, hold it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the sediment will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and level.

The vertical channels do not get to the solution in the chicken inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney by a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make canopy out of the canal with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the overlap must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
Place a metal heating sheet to protect the floor under the stove's fireplace.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​the entrance to the fireplace should be about 13%, a chimney height of 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire must be installed (or, as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe).

Protects the oven from smoking in windy conditions and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Heating stoves made of bricks

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies it became possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials; brick heating ovens are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for the house on their own, since this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. It will not be difficult to install such a stove, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

Such work requires a small number of tools, namely:

• Capacity for solution preparation.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are certain types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for cooking tasty and healthy homemade food, and still others perform only decorative functions.

There are also known models that perform several functions at once, these include a brick heating and cooking stove. This type of oven is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, opinions different people are separated. Some people think that the fireplace should be separate, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. Supplies... Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a brick mini-oven with your own hands does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick brazier oven is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a particular type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for ovens

Most of the sites that are dedicated to this topic set themselves the task of selling already finished project ovens. And what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create projects of brick heating stoves.

To make your job much easier, you need to understand what the requirements are for modern brick ovens.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting projects of absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: DIY oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to keep warm for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Serviceability.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it adjoins the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. A fireplace stove should be located in the living room as a fireplace.

Preparation of the solution

Next, you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. Moreover, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick stove for summer cottages)

Important: properly prepared clay mortar is a guarantee of the stove's durability.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency, so that when pressed on the brick, it squeezes out of the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to make dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

To keep the laying in the correct direction, it is necessary to check the verticality, the dressing of the seams, the internal structure, the correctness of the seams and the horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the stove)

Furnace erection

Before using the brick, it is immersed in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay gives off.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

Thus, a more durable construction can be achieved.Small-sized brick heating stoves require adherence to the thickness of the mortar due to their design features... It should be at least 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

The excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, play can form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick bar, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must line up with the door frame.

Even one millimeter gap should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will completely dry out only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is evidenced by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick plastic film, roofing material or waterproofing material is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured into a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the platform is carefully leveled. The check is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the back wall are laid without using mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the furnace door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, and then fixed with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made with two bricks placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow the sutures to be bridged more firmly.

On the eighth row, the beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. Row 9 needs to be pushed back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installation hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. From the same row, a chimney is formed, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with a metal pipe. If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

On hob put a piece cut from polyethylene material. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. This completes the brick oven with the stove. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it is completely dry.

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Drawings of the stove for a brick bath

Drawings of a brick bath stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to generate steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in section along two sections.

How order drawings help lay out brick ovens for the home

1. Red oven brick laying.
2. Refractory (fireclay) brick laying.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

A drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15 ... 20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed at the back of the firebox, at the level of the grate.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which stones are placed with a slide. The presented design with an open stove quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 х120 х 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke valve - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• bunker for stones - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15 ... 20 (mm)

The laying of the stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying from refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for bandaging bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. V refractory bricks cut out the grooves and install the grate in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry, tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip bends at a 90 ° angle.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. A metal tank for hot water is laid and a metal bin for stones is installed.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
Row 18. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of the stove for a brick bath, designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
Heating time for water and stones is 150 ... 180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the device sauna stove with a heat exchanger.