The Russian stove is unique in its essence. The Russian stove appeared in Russia at the turn of the 17th - 18th centuries. Being very important element life, the Russian stove has rightfully taken its well-deserved place in history. Very often, a Russian stove with a stove bench appears in folk tales, epics. She is "animated", endowed with various human qualities.

Interesting facts from history

Russia has always been famous craftsmen in many areas, and stove business was no exception. The fact is documented that during the 18th - 19th centuries Russia was the leader in the art of stove. Russian stoves were in demand in Germany, England, France and in many other large countries. Russian smoking oven (oven without chimney) used in Ancient Rus for a long time it was the prototype of the famous "Russian stove". Peter I made his contribution to the development of the stove business. In 1718, a decree was issued prohibiting the construction of houses with chimney stoves in St. Petersburg. Later, in 1722, the power of this decree extended to the construction of chimney furnaces in Moscow. This decree served as a powerful impetus for architects and builders who began to come up with new solutions for heating houses. The new stoves had to meet all modern requirements at that time. Architect N.A. Lvov and I.I. Sviyazev made a significant contribution to the development and improvement of furnaces. In 1867, the book "Theoretical Foundations of the Art of Stoves" was published. This book has become an anthology for many stove-makers.

In order to make the laying of the Russian stove with your own hands, you need to understand the principle of operation and the structure of the Russian stove. In different parts of Russia, Russian stoves had different shape, sometimes very unusual specimens were encountered, but the main dimensions were still observed quite strictly. The average Russian stove had the following dimensions:
the width of the Russian stove was - 2 arshins (about 142 cm)
length - 3 arshins (about 213 cm)
and the height from the floor to the couch is 2.5 arshins (about 180 cm)

The device of the Russian stove is shown in detail in the figure. A Russian stove above the indicated dimensions could heat a room of 30 square meters. Usually the Russian stove was located in the corner, next to the door. The laying of the Russian stove was made on a foundation of stones or broken bricks. And in the distant old Russian times on the foundation of thick coniferous or oak logs. The base of the Russian stove was laid on the foundation. The materials used were wild stones, bricks, clay, and wood available at that time. In every Russian stove there was a baking oven - a specially designated place for stove implements. In order for the Russian stove to retain heat longer, various heat-consuming materials were laid between the walls of the stove and the vaults.

During the construction of the Russian stove, bricks and mortar were used. Most often used red ceramic brick obtained by firing ordinary bricks. After firing, the brick became more durable. Sometimes the laying of the Russian stove was also made from raw (unbaked brick). This was done mainly by poor peasants. In rare cases, one could find a Russian raw stove in the tsar's mansions, and those stoves that were encountered were necessarily tiled with tiles.

They loved the Russian stove not only because it gave off heat for a long time. The Russian stove with a stove bench served as a great place to relax. The warmth of the Russian stove had a positive effect on the entire human body. Therefore, the Russian person never complained about a cold. The Russian bath and the warmth of the Russian stove tempered the person.

Roasting in a Russian oven. Pottery was burned in a Russian oven. They did it according to the following scheme. First, firewood was laid, and dishes intended for firing were placed on top of the firewood (or on pre-laid bricks). They stoked the stove until the temperature in the stove reached 900 degrees Celsius. After that, they stopped heating and waited for the stove to cool down (this happened only the next day). In the Russian stove, they burned not only dishes, but also toys. Moreover, the toys were burned, as a rule, during an ordinary firebox.

The figure shows the famous Russian stove with a stove bench.

Interesting that ... Very in an interesting way the peasants determined the temperature of the Russian stove. For this, a small piece of paper was used. They put it in the oven and waited for the piece of paper to char. If this happened immediately, then the temperature in the Russian stove is above 300 degrees Celsius, if with a delay of 5 seconds, then the oven temperature is 270 degrees, 15 seconds - 250 degrees, 30 seconds - 230 degrees, 1 minute - 200 degrees, 5 min - 180 degrees, 10 min - 150 degrees. If the piece of paper has not yet charred, then the temperature in the Russian oven is less than 150 degrees.

The Russian stove was irreplaceable assistant... The life of a Russian person was closely connected with this unique building.

To make a Russian stove, you will need 1650 pieces of bricks, a view with a half door, a valve (with a hole 260 x 240 mm), as well as clay and sand for 70-80 buckets of mortar.

Using the drawings given in the book, you can start laying the stove. The drawings show appearance furnace and its three main sections, allowing you to get a complete picture of its design (Fig. 23). Section A — A clearly shows that the under and arch of the furnace should be tilted towards the mouth; the locations of the main furnace devices - views, half-doors and valves - are shown. Section B-B makes it possible to see the chimney through which the smoke from the samovar passes. Here you can see a special ledge-sill, which prevents sparks from entering the furnace from the furnace into the pipe, and also collects soot coming out of the furnace. When examining the third section B-B, the stove can get an idea of ​​the shape of the vaults of the firebox and the underfire. In addition, all sections indicate dimensions ovens and a special scale showing the level of each brick row.

However, with the direct laying of the stove, the main helpers are horizontal cuts, that is, orders. They give a complete idea of ​​how to lay out the next row, in which cases to use whole bricks or their individual parts; how and where to install special accessories made of wood, as well as metal stove appliances (see link at the top of the page).

Description and ordering diagrams

The first row of the furnace is laid out on a foundation of wild stone or brick, fastened cement mortar... Before starting to lay bricks of the first row, sheets of roofing felt or roofing material are laid, serving as waterproofing.

For the first row, it is advisable to use overheated bricks that are more resistant to moisture.

To ensure the correct dressing of the seams in the next row, three bricks-cha-three-quarters are laid at all corners of the first row (1, a). One of the three-quarters and the adjacent brick are beveled at an angle so that they fit snugly against each other (1, b).

Starting from the second row, lay out the walls of the guardianship. To avoid overlapping seams, on the front wall of the guard in the third row, four three-quarters are used (2).

The fourth row is completely laid out from a whole brick. The corners of two bricks, which should be at the entrance to the furnace, are chopped off so that they can become supports, or the so-called heels of the future arch.

In the opening, a sub-oven is installed wooden formwork and, having laid out the arch, proceed to laying the fifth row. So that the seams of two adjacent rows do not coincide, three three-quarters are placed at the corners (as in the first row). The peculiarity of this row is that 20 bricks of the side walls are chipped off at an angle to turn them into heels - the supports of the future arch of the underfire.

In the sixth row, the side walls are laid out with a thickness of one, and the back and front - in two bricks. Then, a formwork with a semicircular top is inserted between the inner walls of the guard, corresponding to the shape of the future arch of the guard. The formwork is made in advance in such a way that after use it can be easily disassembled into separate parts and then removed through the sub-furnace, that is, the opening leading to the sub-furnace. The collapsible formwork consists of two side frames (a), on the pins (b) of which the circles rest - two boards with rounded upper ribs (c). So that the frames fit snugly against the walls of the furnace, one or two spacers (a) are inserted between them. On top of the circle, they put a flooring made of narrow boards, fastened together with the help of two or three belts made of some kind of flexible material.

After installing the formwork, proceed to laying the vault. Previously, brick factories produced special wedge-shaped bricks, from which it was possible to lay out a vault that had not only thin seams and a smooth surface, but also high strength. Such bricks can be obtained by chipping and then cutting off their edges with a pick. However, only moderately fired bricks with a homogeneous structure and no cracks are suitable for such processing. Often such material cannot be found, so the vault is laid out from whole ordinary bricks. In this case, the lower trunnions (ribs) of the bricks, placed on the edge, should be in close contact with each other, and the same gaps are made between the upper ribs, which are filled with masonry mortar. The strength of such a vault is much increased if fragments of brick of suitable size are pressed into the gaps between the bricks.

Having finished laying the arch of the underfire, they lay the next, seventh, row brickwork... To make the dressing correct, four bricks-three-quarters are used at each corner. After the seventh, the eighth row is placed. It consists entirely of a whole brick. In the same row, lay out a platform for a cold stove (a).

Starting from the ninth row, lay out the walls of the stove. To make the correct dressing of the seams, three-quarters and halves of bricks are used at the corners. The tenth row is laid out completely from a whole brick. Then dry sand is poured to the top between the walls of the furnace. The eleventh row of bricks completely covers the cold stove and backfill.

In the twelfth row, lay out a six and under the oven.

All bricks are fastened with masonry mortar, except for those from which it is arranged under.

Limiting bricks are placed in the oven masonry on the edge. Bottom bricks are laid without mortar, and the gaps between them are filled with sand. During the heating of the furnace, sand is mixed with wood ash and fills the gaps between the bricks with a dense mass. In the left corner of the hearth, a small depression is made for storing hot coals - a forge, or porosok. The laid out underneath is carefully leveled by grinding it with half or a quarter of red brick.

Starting from the thirteenth row, the walls of the crucible (cooking chamber) and the six are laid. At the same time, an arc from a strip of metal is installed between the pole and the crucible, corresponding to the shape and dimensions of the future mouth of the furnace. Several holes are pre-drilled in it at some distance from each other. Annealed steel wire is inserted into them, which is then fixed in the masonry of the furnace.

Laying out the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows, they continue to build up the walls of the six and the furnace.

In the seventeenth row, eight bricks, specially chipped and hewn, are laid in the walls of the furnace. These bricks, called heels, will serve as stops when laying the crucible arch. After such preliminary preparation a wooden formwork is lowered into the crucible. Before proceeding with the laying of the vault, an arch of halves of bricks is laid over the mouth.

The masonry of the vault of the furnace is no different from the masonry of the vault.

When the vault is completed, the eighteenth row of bricks is laid. At the edges of the sixth window, two heels are fixed, on which a small arch will rest, which is laid with the help of wooden formwork.

Having laid out the arch, they proceed to the nineteenth, and then the twentieth rows of bricks. Dry sand mixed with fragments of brick, glass and crushed stone is poured into the space formed by the walls of the furnace and the vault. An open opening for the overtube is left above the pole.

The twenty-first row of bricks tightly closes the crucible together with the backfill. The next twenty-second row makes this overlap more dense and durable. They call it overlap. It is on the ceiling that the bed of the Russian stove is arranged.

In the next, twenty-third, row, they continue to build up the walls of the shield or overtubes, in which the strangler for the samovar is strengthened (a). On the right side of the overtube, an opening is made for cleaning soot, covering it with a half of a brick placed on the edge (b). When, after numerous furnaces of the furnace, soot accumulates on a special site, the brick is knocked out and cleaned. After cleaning, the brick is moistened in water, coated with masonry mortar and the hole is closed with it until the next cleaning. By the recess that remains on the surface of the oven, you can easily and quickly find the place for cleaning at any time. Sometimes, instead of bricks, special metal plugs are inserted.

When laying the twenty-fourth, twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth rows, the pertube is gradually blocked, leaving only two holes: one for the samovar chimney, the other for the view (b).

Laying out the next two rows, that is, the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth, in the opening opposite the view, the so-called half-door is strengthened, that is, a narrow door through which the view (a) is closed and opened.

In the twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows, they continue to build up the walls of the overtube. At the same time, do not forget to follow the rules for dressing seams.

In the thirty-first row, an additional row of three bricks is laid out at one of the walls, so that the smoke from the strangler passes through the remaining narrow Chute into the pipe. After that, the overtube in the thirty-second row is covered with a continuous layer of whole bricks. Only on the right in the overtube is a hole left over which the valve is attached. Starting from the thirty-third row, only one chimney is built up, each row of which should consist of six bricks.

Directly at the very ceiling, a cut is performed with an overlap of bricks. Cutting makes it possible to remove the wooden parts of the ceiling from the pipe, at the same time to tightly close the ceiling opening. In addition, cutting undoubtedly adorns the oven. Therefore, stove-makers often use this technique not only when laying a pipe. Cutting is done during the laying of the furnace in the places where the guarding goes to the crucible, but most often in the upper part of the shield. However, the use of cutting is not always the stove-maker's desire for decoration.

Due to cutting, the surface of the furnace increases, which means that the heat transfer increases.

This principle is used in modern batteries. central heating... This confirms the old truth that beauty and utility are inseparable from a good master.

a - appearance; b - furnace device (1 - hot water box, 2 - small firebox, 3 - large firebox, 4 - "faience", 5 - cast iron stove, 6 - pole, 7 - overhead pipe, 8 - ventilation valve, 9 - smoke valve, 10 - strip or angle steel, 11 - post, 12 - damper, 13 - ventilation duct, 14 - overlap, 15 - gap in the hearth, 16 - brick partition, 17 - under the cooking chamber, 18 - hole in the upper part of the hearth, 19 - adobe, 20 - screw holes, 21 - grates)

In houses of old and new buildings in rural areas, a typical Russian stove is most often arranged. Its improved model is the Russian stove "Housekeeper" (Fig. 4). It has small dimensions (mm): width 890, length 1400, height to pipe 2240, from floor to pole - 770 and from floor to bed - 1400. It is characterized by a specific path of movement of flue gases, heating from the bottom to the very top, two firebox - main (large) and additional (small), use various types solid fuel.
The stove can be fired in Russian style (fuel is burned in a cooking chamber or crucible). Such an oven is simple, economical, serves for heating the room, cooking, baking bakery products.

The stove consists of two chambers: lower (heating) and upper (cooking). The heating chamber is located in the furnace, the cooking chamber is located above it. Under, separating them, laid out from two layers of brick, laid flat. The height of all parts of the stove is the same, it can be equipped with a hot water box.

A large firebox is located on the front side of the stove; a blower for it is laid from the 2nd row. A small firebox is arranged on the right side of the stove, the blower for it is laid out starting from the 4th row. Both fireboxes are covered with one cast-iron stove with two burners. The large burner should be above the large firebox. Hot gases from the small firebox are first directed into the large firebox, from which they enter through the slot into heating chamber, from there into the cooking chamber, and then into the pipe.
During warmer months, you can cook food and bake pies in the cooking chamber, burning fuel there. In winter, the firebox is carried out only through a large firebox. A small firebox is used to heat food or heat the stove when severe frosts... Any fuel, including raw, burns well in a small firebox.

A simple Russian stove is easy to set up and maintain. It is laid out of red brick or made of clay (adobe) using two devices - a damper and a smoke damper. The simplest stove (Fig. 87, "Russian stove ordinary", 1 - waterproofing; 2 - fine gravel and river sand mixed with broken glass) has dimensions:

Width - 1270mm
length - 1650
height - to ceiling 2380
height to the floor (stove overlap) - 1540 mm

Heat transfer of the stove: with one firebox - 2100 kcal / h, with two fireboxes - 3000 kcal / h. The back and side walls with one firebox emit 1200 kcal / h, the front wall - 400 kcal / h and the overlap - 500 kcal / h. With two furnaces, respectively: 1750, 550 and 700 kcal / h. Under the stove there is a sub-stove for storing grips, a poker, a scoop and other furnace accessories. The stove can heat a room of 30 m2.

Materials:
brick - 1610 pieces
clay - 66 buckets
sand - 60 buckets

Devices:
smoke damper - 300x150 mm (it is better to put two)
samovar - 130x130 mm, damper - 430x340 mm

The stove should be laid strictly in order, with careful bandaging of the seams (Fig. 87a, "Ordering the masonry of the Russian stove"). The brick is pre-selected and the best one is used for the vault, walls of the furnace and hearth. The first row is made of whole bricks. The second row is laid out in the form of a well, necessary for the formation of a bake. The third, fourth and fifth rows are similar to the second, subject to the dressing of the stitches. The arch is laid from the fifth row with a continuation to the eighth row, with the obligatory extrusion of the heels, the formwork is installed and the arch is completely laid out, resting it on the walls from the front and back sides. The eighth, ninth and tenth rows show the masonry of the oven walls with a cold stove device in the ninth and tenth rows. The eleventh row, similar to the previous one, is performed in compliance with the dressing of the sutures. He covers the stove. The well above the vault is filled with backfill, which is leveled and compacted so that it has a rise from the pole to the rear wall of the firebox or furnace. The twentieth row shows a hearth deck with bricks on sand without mortar. To make the hearth smoother, it is sprinkled with sand and tinder, as if polished, with a brick, removing all burrs from the hearth brick and making it smoother, it is best to use a hearth brick.

The thirteenth - sixteenth rows show the filling of the pole, the mouth of the furnace and the cooking chamber of the crucible. The walls are laid in three quarters of a brick - 190 mm (half and a quarter of a brick). They are not tied together, but only the seams are tied up. It also shows the order of arrangement of locks at the mouth of the furnace (the ends of the bricks are hewn off at an angle of 45њ). The hearth has a rise of 30 mm from the mouth to the rear side of the furnace. The seventeenth row completely forms the back wall and the mouth in the shape of a crucible. On the side walls, a quarter-brick masonry is cut at the top to form heels. A formwork is placed on which the arch will be laid out with support on the previously made walls. Most often, the laying of the vault is completed from this row. In the eighteenth row, a fully finished vault is shown, which is laid with careful dressing of the seams and the setting of key bricks and the walls are laid. The nineteenth row, laid out in the form of an arch, covers the opening above the pole. At the same time, the walls of the furnace are laid, thereby leveling the masonry of the vault. The twentieth row is laid with a decrease in the hole above the pole with the alignment of the walls of the furnace. The twenty-first row begins to be laid, like the nineteenth, in compliance with the dressing of the seams.

The twenty-second row completely aligns the masonry above the vault and further reduces the opening above the pole. A samovar is laid in this row. The bricks on the right side of the pertube are cut off to ensure better movement of gases. Here they lay a box for collecting soot, chipping off the brick as shown in section A-A... From the twenty-third to the thirty-second row, the overtube masonry is shown. In the twenty-third row, the laying of a samovar and a box for collecting soot is being completed. All rows are performed according to the orders, by setting two valves and arranging a chimney channel measuring 26x26 cm. Above the thirty-second row, a pipe is placed. The design of the damper is shown in Figure 88 ("Damper", 1 - a sheet of roofing steel; 2 - a handle made of strip steel; 3 - legs of strip steel for the stability of the damper; 4 - a frame made of angle steel 25x25x3 mm). It should be noted that the frame for the damper must be made of angle steel 25x25x3 mm. It is highly desirable to also make a frame of strip or angle steel and insert it into the masonry of the mouth, securing it accordingly. In this case, it will be the formwork for the arch.

Another scheme

The Russian stove, in addition to a number of advantages, also has such a disadvantage as the predominant heating of only the upper layers of the air. However, it still remains one of the most popular types of stoves that combine heating and cooking functions.

The device of the Russian stove: a - baking; b - niche; в - six; g - crucible; d - strangler; e - shield; g - valves; h - chimney; and - overlapping the furnace.

The constituent elements of an ordinary Russian stove are shown in Figure 63. Russian stoves are large, medium and small. Here we will consider the option of constructing a small furnace with dimensions of 1270 x 650 x 2380 mm. For her you will need the following materials:
- ordinary brick - 1610 pcs.;
- clay solution - 1200 l;
- damper made of sheet steel 430 x 340 mm - 1 pc .;
- view gate valve 300 x 300 mm - 2 pcs .;
- samovar 140 x 140 mm - 1 pc.

The sequence of laying the Russian stove: a - general form; b - masonry sequence.

1st row - laying out the baked goods. Masonry is carried out mainly from whole bricks on mortar intended for the foundation.
2nd-4th rows - laying of a well with obligatory dressing of seams. On one side, you need to leave a hole for the baking.
5th row - the beginning of the laying of the arch over the firing. The side rows are laid out with heels to support the arch, formwork is built on them.
6th and 7th rows - a vault overlapping the sub-furnace.
8th row - vault lock.
9th and 10th rows - one brick laying.
11th row - laying out the overlap of the "cold stove" located above the baking oven. The space inside the masonry is filled up and leveled with an inclination from the rear wall of the cooking chamber to the pole.
12th row - hearth masonry, which, as a rule, is made of special hearth bricks. Sprinkle under fine-grained sand and level with bricks.

The 13th row is the first row of the cooking chamber, laid out in 3/4 of the brick. The corner bricks of the front wall must be cut at an angle of 450 and fastened to the lock. In this row, the masonry is not tied, the dressing of the seams is required.
Rows 14-16 - lay in the same way as row 13.
17th row - laying the arch of the mouth and laying the heels under the arch of the cooking chamber. For laying heels, a hewn brick is used, placed on the edge.
18th row - laying of the walls of the stove and stoves. As alternative option you can fill the space between the dome of the cooking chamber and the walls with sand, or clay mortar with brick rubble as a filler.
19th row - laying out the walls of the vault, arched overlapping of the hole above the pole.
20th row - using a chopped-off brick, they reduce the hole above the pole (overtube), and also make an overlap over the channel for the samovar.
21st row - aligning the walls and reducing the overtube.
22nd row - reduction of overtube. Samovar channel bookmark. The brick on the right side of the pertube is cut off, the masonry above the vault is leveled. Spread out the soot box.
23rd row - a samovar is arranged, which is closed with a lid.
24th - 32nd rows - install view valves.

The Russian stove has not lost its popularity to this day. In village houses, in summer cottages, such a heating structure is used for heating the premises, for sleeping and resting, as well as for cooking. A preheated crucible keeps heat for a long time, so you can cook crumbly porridge, bake bread, simmer milk in it. How is a Russian stove built with your own hands? There are many subtleties in this process, but if you have the appropriate knowledge and skills, you can do everything yourself.

How a traditional Russian stove works

At the first stage, a novice craftsman must understand the principle of the functioning of a heating structure. The diagram below clearly shows the design of the Russian stove. The main elements include:

• baking - firewood is stored and dried here;
• six - hot pots and pans removed from the oven can be placed in such a niche;
• cooking chamber - food is prepared in it;
• cold stove - a niche for storing dishes;
• strangler - a hole leading to the chimney;
• bed - you can sleep on it, warm up and rest after a hard working day;
• view - a door that completely covers the chimney.

The device of a traditional Russian stove

The design of the Russian stove is thought out to the smallest detail, so common disadvantages are eliminated in it. This refers to high fuel consumption, uneven heating. An average heating structure has specific dimensions: width - 142 cm, height - 213 cm, height from flooring to the couch - 180 cm. The stove, which has the specified dimensions, heats a room of 30 square meters. m.

Alternatively, instead of the traditional one, you can build a Russian mini-oven. What is its difference from the classic version? Such a structure has a modified and rationalized design. The changes affected the foundation, since in new variation arrangement of two asymmetrical fireboxes (main and additional) is provided. The cooking chamber is operated like a traditional oven. If necessary, it is closed with a flap.

The Russian stove "Economy" heats up quickly and has a compact size

A mini stove is considered very economical because it is energy efficient and consumes little fuel. A significant advantage of such a structure is that to create a comfortable temperature in the house, you can use not only firewood, but also other types solid fuel.

Layout of the masonry of the Russian mini-oven

DIY stove construction: an overview of the main stages

The original traditions of our people are not forgotten, therefore the living warmth of crackling logs warms the soul and fills the house with coziness, as in the old days. How can you fold a Russian stove yourself? First, materials are prepared: fireclay and red bricks, clay, sand, smoke valves, roofing material, doors, grate, asbestos cord. You also need to have a level on hand, rubber mallet, construction pencils, square, tape measure, drill with mixer attachment, container for mixing the solution, jointing. It is quite difficult to build a Russian stove with your own hands, but if a person has a great desire, any idea can be realized. The process of erecting a heating structure consists of the following fundamental stages:

• making dimensional drawings, determining the location of the stove in the house, assessing the type of soil;
• arrangement of the foundation - a pit is being dug, crushed stone and sand are laid on the bottom. The mixture is compacted and poured with a layer of concrete. Waterproofing in progress;
• preparation masonry mortar – main secret consists in the correct ratio of clay and sand (1: 2). But we must not forget that clay comes in different qualities. Therefore, the prepared solution must be checked for "fat content". To do this, a ball rolls down and is thrown to the floor with force. If it crumbles, there is a lot of sand in the solution, and if it remains intact, the consistency is normal;
• stacking orders - if you want to build a Russian stove with your own hands, the design diagram will become an indispensable assistant. The first row is laid out from a whole brick, the next rows form a sub-oven in which firewood is stored. Then a cold stove is laid out, an ash pan, a cooking chamber and a bend are formed, a grate and a door are installed. After the 20th row, the construction of the pipe begins, the smoke turns are laid out, the overtube is closed with a metal shutter. Further laying is carried out taking into account the height of the room. The chimney is narrowed, and then a pipe is formed, which passes through the ceilings and the roof.

Decorating a Russian stove: common options

Heating structures are laid from refractory bricks, not distinguished by special elegance. Moreover, the rough surface collects dust and is difficult to clean. The decoration of the Russian stove can be done in several ways:

• painting or whitewashing - the outer surface of the oven is rubbed and treated with a penetrating primer, which is sold in stores. After the primer is dry, you can start painting. For this purpose, paint is used that has high rates heat resistance. If whitewashing is done, slaked lime with the addition of blue is used;

This is important to know: doors, flaps and other metal elements are treated with black silicone paint.

• plastering the stove with clay with further whitewashing is the most ancient method, which has some drawbacks. The main disadvantage is that the furnace needs an annual overhaul;
• decoration with tiles - everyone can do such a decor of a Russian stove with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in this process: the tiles are pre-moistened in water, and then facing is performed;

Tiles are special decorative elements that combine beauty and practicality

Pay attention: one side of the tiles is decorated with an original pattern and covered with glaze. And on the back there is an open box, with the help of which decorative tiles attached to the oven surface.

• facing ceramic tiles- this process starts with preparatory phase, during which dust and dirt are removed from the surface, the seams are cleaned. After that, a mesh with cells is attached. When facing, the tiles are knocked out rubber hammer, and the remnants of the solution are immediately removed;
• do-it-yourself painting of a Russian stove - to apply an ornament, you must have a minimum set of tools and materials: sandpaper, chalk for surface preparation, flange and art brushes, paint.

Painted Russian stove looks original and unusual

Self-repair of a Russian stove

The effective functioning of any equipment depends on its condition. This also applies to brick heating structures. During long-term operation stoves, various problems and malfunctions can occur:

1. Cracks - they appear due to constant exposure to high temperatures. It is imperative to repair cracks, because the efficiency of the stove decreases. Plus, carbon monoxide escapes through the cracks, which can lead to serious poisoning. To eliminate this deficiency, a solution consisting of clay, sand, salt is used. You can also purchase ready-made dry mix at a specialty store. "Fireclay mortar" - ecologically clean material possessing excellent characteristics.
2. Disruption of the chimney - with poor maintenance of the stove, the draft weakens. How to check if the smoke comes out well? To do this, it is necessary to burn aspen firewood in the oven. If the smoke is dark and then light, everything is normal. If the smoke is black, remove the soot by pulling out the loose bricks.
3. Fallen off furnace door- to eliminate such a problem, you should beat off the plaster around the opening and clean the seams. Then the bricks are carefully loosened and taken out, a metal strip is attached to the door and the masonry is resumed.

During renovation works the door can be sealed with tape. Then she won't be smeared

1. Burnt grate - it must be replaced, observing the rules for dismantling.

Minor repairs can be done independently, but the restoration of the Russian stove, as well as the construction of a heating structure, should be entrusted to professional craftsmen with the necessary knowledge and skills. Then the oven will serve faithfully long years!

Video: we put a Russian stove with our own hands

A brick oven is one of the most effective devices used to provide heating for a home. At the same time, she not only heats the room, but also creates an unusually cozy atmosphere, not comparable to that which is able to provide an electric or gas heater.

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For this, it is not necessary to build a large structure. A small Russian stove will take much less useful area how classic model, and will heat the room no worse, and at the same time they are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.

Features of the mini Russian oven

The mini Russian stove is really small in size, the dimensions are standard model no more than 1x1.3 m, and therefore there is a place for it even in a one-room building of a small area. This device does not have a bed, but it has two fireboxes:

• the first - a large firebox is located closer to the front wall. It is used for heating in autumn - winter period and for baking various dishes;
• the second is small, located behind the first, closer to back side... It is used for cooking food during warm seasons. In this case, less fuel is consumed, and easier cleaning and maintenance of the device.

Furnace chambers are needed not only for cooking various dishes, but also for heating the room. During the heating season, only one of them or both chambers can work at the same time. Fuel filling is possible directly through the brewhouse.

Internal channels also have their own peculiarity in such a furnace, which are designed to supply hot gas to the fuel chambers and remove carbon monoxide gases to the street. During the heating of the furnace, all flue gases flow from a larger firebox into the 1st compartment of the heating chamber.

Then they pass through the 2nd compartment and, bypassing underneath, move to the rear wall of the cooking compartment, burn there and heat the stove at the same time. The smoke formed during this process, through four passes located at the top of the brewing section, enters the collecting channel, and from it into the chimney.

A small firebox does not have special channels for removing smoke, from which gaseous substances pass into the main combustion chamber, and only then go outside.

The small Russian stove also includes a ventilation duct, which, as necessary, is closed with a valve.

An example of a small Russian stove

Materials and their quantity

To build a small Russian stove with your own hands, you need the following building materials and stove accessories:

P / p No.	Name of materials	Unit measurements	Quantity
1	Red refractory brick	Thousand. PCS.	0,75
2	Greasy clay	Kg	150
3	Washed river sand	Kg	300
4	Grate	PCS.	2
5	Gate valve	PCS.	2
6	Firebox door	PCS.	2
7	Blower door	PCS.	2
8	Cleaning door	PCS.	3
9	Hob	PCS.	1
10	Asbestos cord	m	16
11	Wire	m	6

List of instruments

For the convenience of doing work when laying a Russian stove with your own hands, you need to prepare workers in advance and measuring instruments... A set of working tools should consist of:

• bayonet shovel;
• containers for the preparation of masonry mixture. It should be wide enough and have low sides;
• a shovel and two metal sieves with mesh sizes of 2x2 and 1x1 mm. With this tool, clay and sand are sown;
• trowels - a special trowel, with which the mortar is taken and distributed over the masonry elements, and also excess mixture that protrudes beyond the seam is removed;
• hammer - picks. They can divide a whole brick into several parts and cut the resulting surfaces;
• jointing, contributing to the compaction of masonry seams and giving them the desired shape;
• scraping - a rubber plate with a handle. It is being cleaned inner surfaces masonry from excess mixture and seal the seams in hard-to-reach places;
• saws - grinders. It can be cut more accurately and fit bricks for laying curved structural elements;
• rules - for leveling the top plane of the foundation.

The control of the verticality and horizontalness of the masonry joints, the geometric parameters of the entire furnace structure is carried out using:

• bubble level;
• plumb line;
• square;
• roulette.

Preparation of the solution

When mixing masonry mortar, clay with a low sand content is used - oily and sand in a ratio of 1 (g): 2 (n). The clay is pre-soaked in water for a day, then rubbed through a sieve in order to remove foreign inclusions from it. The sand must be dry and sieved. Water must be added to the mixture in such an amount that the finished solution corresponds in consistency to thick sour cream.

However, the acquired clay may differ slightly in fat content. Therefore, it is better to first carry out a test batch in a small portion in three options and make cakes from these compositions. On which of the samples there will be fewer cracks in three days, that variant of the proportions of the components should be taken as a basis in the manufacture of the entire volume of the masonry mixture.

Calculation and manufacturing of the foundation

Even a small-sized Russian stove needs a solid foundation. Simple reinforcement of the floor will not be enough, it is necessary to build a structure from small reinforced concrete blocks, stone or fill in a reinforced concrete slab... It should be detached from the foundation of the house. To determine the depth of the support, it is necessary to assess the type of soil, the level of its freezing and the height of the soil water.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove operator with 15 years of experience

For example, in the Moscow region, the soil freezes by about 1.4 meters in winter. This means that the foundation for the furnace should be no less deep. The width and length should exceed the dimensions of the base of the furnace body by at least 15 - 20 cm.

Thus, for a small Russian stove of this model, the dimensions of the foundation will be as follows:

• width - 130 cm;
• length - 150 cm;
• height - 160 cm.

Accordingly, for the construction monolithic slab you will need 3.0 m3 of concrete. It can be bought at a factory with a BRU or made independently by purchasing for these purposes:

• cement M400 - 0.97 t;
• sand - 1.6 m³;
• crushed stone - 3.2 m³.

The work itself is carried out in the following sequence:

• digging a pit 1.75 - 1.8 m deep;
• compact the bottom and pour a 15 cm layer of crushed stone;
• install a formwork from an unedged board with a gasket waterproofing material on its inner surfaces;
• mount a reinforcing frame from two rows metal mesh with a cell size of 15x15 mm, which are interconnected by vertical reinforcement segments;
• flood concrete mix into the formwork with layer-by-layer compaction by tamping or bayonetting to remove air bubbles;
• align the upper plane of the structure.

The formwork can be dismantled after about a week, and further work waterproofing is carried out after 25 - 28 days, when the concrete will gain full strength.

The order of laying rows

The brick is placed in water for 2-3 seconds before laying. Then a solution is applied on its surface and tightly seated in a designated place in the design of a Russian mini-oven, according to the order developed at the project stage.

The order of the small Russian stove:

After the foundation waterproofing is done, on upper layer Roofing material is poured into a layer of sand 1 cm thick, and then, according to the order of the Russian mini oven:

• the 1st row of bricks is laid on dry, without the use of mortar;
• from the 2nd to the 5th - put the blowers of both fireboxes and install their doors;
• 6th - mount grates for two fireboxes;
• 7th and 8th - mount the firebox doors. The masonry of the main combustion chamber expands towards the partition;
• 10th - erected under and form a channel 8 cm wide near the rear wall of the case along the brewing section;
• 11th - continue laying the hearth, block the doors of both fuel chambers;
• 12th - lay the cast iron plate;
• 13th and 14th - continue laying according to the order;
• 15th - the brewing section is formed, connections are made from a steel strip between its side walls;
• 16th and 17th - continue to form the brewing department;
• 18th - they overlap the pole, in the front part of the arch they leave four moves measuring 70x120 mm;
• 19th - a collecting channel is formed, the opening of the overtube is narrowed;
• 21st - lay the foundation of the ventilation duct;
• from the 22nd to the 24th - reduce the collecting channel in cross section, increase the size of the ventilation channel and install a gate valve on it;
• from the 25th to the 27th - change the shape of the chimney, install a valve on it;
• 28th and 29th - connection of two vertical channels into one horizontal course with an L-shaped shape, overlapping this channel with strip steel;
• 30th - corresponds to the drawing;
• in the 31st and 32nd - spread the overlap;
• in the 33rd - they put a chimney.

The chimney of a Russian mini stove is made of solid bricks on a mixed type of masonry mixture, which includes cement, clay and sand. All its internal surfaces should be smooth, and there should be no voids in the seams. This will reduce the amount of soot and tar accumulating on its walls from the inside. The masonry itself is made into one brick with a seam thickness of no more than 10-12 mm.

The Russian stove is a classic of the genre, as anyone would say experienced stove-maker... Indeed, this is a multifunctional device where you can cook food, warm yourself on a couch, admire an open flame and even dry your clothes. But! The most important thing is to heat the house, because stones, even after the end of burning, retain heat for a long time and keep it cozy.

In general, a real Russian stove is a fairly large object, traditionally occupying a quarter of the kitchen. We propose to do the same, but several times less. After reading our article, you will find out what a mini Russian stove with your own hands is and how many advantages it has over its big "sister".

The mini Russian stove is really miniature, its standard dimensions are 100x130 cm, and therefore it will be appropriate even in a small one-room house.

Most often it is used for cooking food, because it takes up little space, melts quickly, allows you to place 2-3 objects at once on the burners, and you can bake in it at the same time bakery products... And even after the end of the firebox, the stove keeps the temperature for several hours, which makes it possible to keep the food warm.

The device of the Russian stove and the principle of operation - video

It is not difficult and very fast to build such a universal heating unit - in just 2 days you will have a miniature Russian stove with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the order and choose high-quality materials.

Features of the Russian mini oven

First distinctive feature- the design of 2 fireboxes, where the main one is placed in the front, and the small one is behind, a cast iron stove with 2 different-sized burners is superimposed on them. In the spring-summer period, food is prepared mainly on a small firebox, which is very convenient. Low fuel consumption, easier to clean and maintain.

Fuel tanks are intended not only for cooking, but also for heating. Moreover, they can work simultaneously in two modes or separately, and the fuel can be put directly into the cooking chamber.

Since the Russian stove housekeeper does not imply the presence of a stove bench, the channels through which hot gas is supplied to the fireboxes and carbon monoxide and smoke are discharged outside are also special. As soon as the stove starts to heat up, the hot gas first goes into the first compartment of the chamber, after which the turn of the inlets goes to the wall. Then it goes to the cooking chambers (burners), and smoke and carbon monoxide go through the upper openings of the cooking chamber and immediately into the chimney.

Stove construction

You can not philosophize much and order a ready-made copy, especially since a simplified mini Russian stove is found in many heating appliance stores. But we still advise you to make a Russian stove with a stove with your own hands. It will serve you for several decades, it is enough just to clean the chimney every 2-3 years.

Even a miniature Russian stove is always installed on a solid foundation. It is not enough just to reinforce the floor, you need to install a new one of brick or stone, or pour concrete and reinforce it.

What materials will be needed

• red brick - 750 pcs.;
• fireclay clay;
• sand;
• felt or asbestos fiber for insulation;
• roofing felt on the bottom layer also for heat and waterproofing;
• fasteners;
• metal corner, sheet and steel wire;
• grate - 2 pcs .;
• doors for the combustion chamber and blower - 2 pcs.;
• damper - 1 pc .;
• gate valve - 1 pc.

... and tools:

• building level;
• spatulas;
• Master OK;
• drill with mixer attachment for mixing the solution;
• buckets;
• sieve for sifting clay and sand.

Do not forget about the tools: a spatula, a trowel, a drill with a mixer. Additionally, have buckets or tanks, a sieve on hand. Use a level to keep the oven level.

Ordering

• 1 row - the wall of the Russian mini oven is laid out with whole bricks with the obligatory bandaging of each seam.
• 2-5 rows - the blowers of the main and small fireboxes are laid out, separately columns, on which a brick arch will be placed. On the same rows, you can immediately attach the doors to the blower.
• 6th row - bricks are cut under a cone directly above the grate, and a grate is placed in each firebox.
• 7-8 rows - the doors are fixed on both fuel chambers.
• 9th row - the beginning of the narrowing of the outlet channel when leaving the main firebox. The septum, in turn, expands.
• 10 row - it is built underneath so that a drainage channel with a width of about 75-80 mm must pass along the back wall.
• 11th row - the construction of the hearth continues, and the front wall is additionally fixed with corners.
• 12th row - the channel is closed with a cast iron hob.
• Lay out the 13-16 row completely according to the drawing, and on the 15th row, make the connections of the side walls from a metal sheet.
• 17 row - the connections of the side walls with a metal sheet are also duplicated and a base is made under the overtube. Additionally, grooves are cut for strips.
• 18 row - the beginning of the bookmark hob, which is traditionally performed in the form of an arch. It rests on bricks at an angle of 10 degrees, which are additionally fixed with clay mortar.
• 19 row - the ventilation duct is laid and the laying of the chimney begins.
• Rows 20-21 - laid out according to the pattern.
• Rows 22-24 - the bricks are cut off under the collecting channel, which should turn out to be square.
• 22-25 row - the construction of the chimney continues with a gradual decrease in the clearance so that in the end you get only 1 brick.
• 27 row - according to the picture
• Rows 28-29 - are connected with a horizontal vertical channel on both sides, and closed with a sheet of metal.
• 30-32 row - according to the figure.

As you can see, the mini Russian stove "Housekeeper" is built quite quickly and easily. There are no complicated brick transitions with an increase and decrease in the cross-section and channels, there are no separate chambers, as in a traditional furnace, therefore it is fashionable to build it in just a few days.

Once again, but already clearly, how to build a mini Russian stove with your own hands - video

1. Buy only quality bricks and clay

Often, in an attempt to save money, careless owners purchase used bricks, which are not always even and of the same size, and which is extremely difficult to clean from the remnants of masonry material. Fireclay- a guarantee that the stove will not burst one fine day or evening and will not poison the inhabitants with carbon monoxide.

1. Before you fold the Russian stove with your own hands, study the drawings. They are compiled by experienced craftsmen who have been laying various stoves for more than one year and know exactly which order will be the best.
2. The first 3-4 times, do not heat the stove at full strength in order to detect errors in the masonry in time.

We are not saying that they should be mandatory, but even experts sometimes make mistakes, let alone beginner stove-makers.

1. Observe safety precautions

This applies to both the actual construction of a Russian stove with your own hands, and the period of operation. This is direct contact with fire, and with it, as you know, jokes are bad.

In general, Russian stoves for the home are absolutely safe. Its design is provided in such a way as to exclude the loss of coals from the furnace or sparks when laying firewood. Even if you do not know how to use a Russian mini oven at all, in extreme cases, you simply cannot ignite it, but you will not cause any harm to either the house or its inhabitants.

The Russian stove has a long history, and at the same time it has not lost its relevance to this day. Characterizes stove heating simplicity and reliability of the design, as well as versatility. The Russian stove fits well into the interior; you do not need to heat it a large number firewood, and its correct use makes it possible long service without repair. The task concerning the laying of a Russian stove is not an easy one, but with the desire and knowledge of the basic principles of this process, it is quite solvable.

From the history of the Russian stove

The Russian stove in the 15th century was preceded by devices that did not have a chimney, so they were heated "in black". A little later, they began to remove the resulting smoke through the attic. And after a while, the clay was replaced with bricks, which were pre-fired. With the advent of the 17th century, the chimney oven was invented. However, chimneys were built of wood, which often led to fires. The year 1718 is significant for the Russian stove, when such designs were banned by Peter the Great.

Russian stove

Dangerous hearths were gradually replaced by stoves equipped with pipes made of stone and having a stove bench that is a place to sleep. The center of peasant life was precisely the Russian stove. In addition to cooking and drying the gifts of the forest, pottery was fired in it, and a vine was prepared for weaving bast shoes. The presence in it a large number niches and various compartments allowed for storage household utensils... In addition to all this, the stove was used as a miniature bath.

Russian stove

How does a traditional Russian stove work?

The dimensions of the Russian stove and, accordingly, its mass are significant, therefore it requires the construction of a sufficiently strong foundation. In the past, wood and stone were used for its construction, at the moment - concrete and brick.

The lowest part of the oven is called the base. It contains a baking oven, which is a chamber designed to accommodate various utensils and firewood in it. The presence of such a basis creates more comfortable conditions for the operation of the furnace due to the fact that the entire structure rises somewhat above the floor level. The vault, which has a semicircular shape, closes the subheat. Sand or clay is poured onto it, after which a bottom, called a hearth, is installed. For uniform combustion, the fuel is arranged in such a way that it is at some slight angle to the rear wall.

The structure of the Russian stove

The main elements of the firebox are the cooking chamber and the furnace. The front part of the firebox has a mouth, which is an opening equipped with a metal shutter. The domed or sloping vault is the upper ceiling of the cooking chamber. The first one reduces the load on the walls, while the other contributes to a more even process of heat reflection. The formwork, made of planks or metal, serves as the basis for the installation of the vault. The chimney design does not provide for any turns or the presence of horizontally located sections. It is vertically positioned and sits directly above the oven.

The Russian furnace operates according to the following principle: fuel is burned in the chamber due to the supply of oxygen from the lower part of the mouth; combustion products move to the roof and then move along the chimney. The combustion rate of fuel depends on its moisture content. Dry wood burns faster, thereby increasing the heating rate of the stove.

Cooking is done after the logs are burned and heated. interior space ovens. In the process of fuel combustion, the temperature in the furnace reaches 600 degrees Celsius. As the wood burns out, it drops to the optimum temperature for cooking various dishes of 220-250 degrees Celsius.

Choosing a place for the oven

When designing this device, the following guidelines should be followed:

• it is necessary that wooden structures and smoke channel were at a distance of at least 37 mm;
• the required thrust is achieved when the pipe is located at least one and a half meters from the ridge and at least half a meter from it;
• the location of the chimney at the level of the ridge is allowed if the distance from it is in the range from 1.5 to 3 meters;
• in the case when the above distance is more than three meters, then a lower position of the pipe is possible with a slope of more than 10 degrees.

Russian stove in the interior

It is not allowed to combine the foundations of the furnace and the building. This is due to the fact that each structure has its own natural draft.

The design of the house should include the installation of the stove. The best place for it is the central part of the house, which will make it possible to heat the maximum area.

Choosing materials and tools

Materials (edit)

For laying a Russian stove with your own hands, a red solid brick is best suited. The quality of the firing is important. Before starting work, smooth bricks are selected and soaked in water. This is necessary to remove air from its pores and moisturize. With a sufficient degree of moisture, the brick will not take moisture from the solution, which contributes to their high-quality connection with each other.

You need to choose high-quality brick

The component necessary for bonding the masonry is clay extracted from the deep horizons of the soil. Important characteristic clay is the level of its fat content. At normal level of this indicator it is possible to avoid cracking during the drying process of the solution. In order for the thickness of the seam to be minimal, fine fractions of sand obtained by sieving are used in the solution.

In order to obtain the required properties of clay, it must weather out for several winters and freeze out in the frost. It is recommended to use atmospheric water (snow, rain) with the required softness. In addition, a couple of handfuls of bronze or copper shavings are added to the composition of the solution.

Tool

• chopping and cutting of bricks is done with a hammer-pick;
• the application of the solution and its leveling is carried out with a trowel;
• control the horizontality of the masonry level;
• verticality is checked with a plumb line or a cord with a suspended load;
• the horizontal position and straightness of the masonry are controlled by the rule;
• measurements are carried out with a tape measure or a steel meter.

Tools for the job

Types of solution

Do-it-yourself laying of a Russian stove requires the preparation of a specific solution. The mixture for this can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself according to a unique recipe.

Clay solution

This type of mortar implies an individual compilation of it for different types of bricks.

Laying pipes in the attic

For masonry solid brick a sandy-clay solution is used. The same solution is required for lining the stove with ceramic tiles.

For laying refractory bricks, you will need a solution prepared from a mixture of refractory clay and sand.

Masonry fireclay bricks carried out on a solution consisting of chamotte powder and refractory clay.

The laying of the chimney in the attic is carried out using a mortar based on cement and sand.

Masonry mortar

The main problem in the preparation of mortar for masonry is the preparation of the optimal proportion of its components and the choice of clay of the required quality. All types of clays have certain qualities that are different depending on its grade. Distinguish between lean and oily clay. To determine this parameter, you need to get a small ball out of it and try to crush it between the boards. If cracks begin to appear before the material is crushed to a third of its diameter, the solution is considered lean and requires an additional amount of clay. If cracking starts later, then the solution is greasy and sand should be introduced into it. Greater than too dry solution is preferable.

Solution

To prepare the solution, you will need a container made of metal. The clay is soaked in this container for two days. After that, sand is added, and the solution is mixed with the help of legs, previously shod in high rubber boots. To obtain a homogeneous solution, it is necessary that there are no lumps and stones in it.

Building the foundation

Foundation

The design of the Russian stove requires that a separate foundation be built for it. To do this, it is recommended to lay the foundation from a reinforced concrete monolith. A necessary requirement is the presence of a foundation protrusion of at least 500 mm beyond the outer dimensions of the furnace.

If the oven is installed next to inner wall, then a sand layer is arranged between the foundations to separate the foundations of the two structures. This is due to the slight deepening of the building foundation.

If the oven is located at outer wall, where the foundation has a significant depth, then an increase in the width of the pit is made, followed by filling and compaction of sand and gravel. At the end of these works, a furnace foundation is created, the base of which must have a depth of at least 500 mm with a distance of 50 mm from the base of the house.

Stove masonry: step by step instructions

Site preparation

At this stage, leveling and marking of the construction site is carried out. The thoroughness of these works will determine the course of the oven masonry.

Pouring the foundation

The depth of the pit depends on the dimensions of the structure and is in the range of 500-1200 mm. The foundation material is concrete, which, after pouring, takes about a week to solidify.

Laying orders

Do-it-yourself Russian stove is carried out in strict accordance with the scheme, called ordering.
The first row, consisting of two or three rows of bricks, is laid out on the foundation to achieve greater structural stability. The quality of the brick for this series is not of fundamental importance.

The main thing is the quality of the firing.

After that, the masonry scheme must fully comply with the order. Rows can be continuous or provide for the presence of cavities and niches.

In order to maintain the vault, if the furnace is of significant dimensions, columns are installed. Fireclay bricks are used for them.

The following rows are stacked similarly to the first, taking into account the drawing.

Masonry of the Russian stove

Preparing the oven for operation

Having completed the construction of the Russian stove, the solution should be allowed to dry out. Heating and hardening of brickwork is done in 5-6 days. This time is enough for even the chamotte mixture in the crucible to seize.

Finishing

In this case, finishing is necessary not only to give the structure an aesthetic appearance, but also to control the state of the oven masonry. Traditional finishes involve the use of clay, hydrated lime and chalk.

This mixture works well in conditions of temperature fluctuations.

Photo of Russian stoves