Here you will receive detailed information on how and with what to paint the OSB (OSB) board outside and what difficulties may be associated with the choice of paint. This building material has appeared relatively recently. The correct abbreviation for these boards is oriented strand board, or OSB for short. Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is made from waste wood and needs to be protected from water and rot. Like other wood, OSB is required to be painted to protect it from moisture and, ultimately, from decay and destruction if it is outside the room.

There are four classes of boards in total: from OSB-1 to OSB-4. Each class has its own purpose:

OSB-1 are used indoors as furniture elements;

OSB-2 is used in the production of composite I-beams;

OSB-3 the same application as OSB-2, but at high humidity;

OSB-4 also in the production of composite I-beams with increased stress and moisture. In terms of strength characteristics, they are after plywood and ahead of DstP.

In addition, the slabs are varnished, laminated and made with tongue-and-groove joints. All four types of OSB boards, if they are located outside, need protection from mold and putrefactive fungi.

Did you know that oriented strand boards are different thicknesses: from 6 to 22 mm.

Experts recommend using OSB-3 and OSB-4 for outdoor work, but the first option is less preferable. Slabs of the third category have no special protection against moisture, so they require additional processing. OSB-4 is much more expensive, therefore for facade works when building economical housing, it is rarely chosen.

The technology for preparing facades from OSB boards for painting is the same for all types of paints.

Pore ​​filling

First of all, it is necessary to fill the pores that the OSB board has. Each tree contains hundreds of microscopic pores per square centimeter for the passage of water and nutrients... After the OSB board is formed and pressed, the sheets are polished. After grinding, microscopic pores open, and not only moisture can get into them, but also spores of mold and putrefactive fungi.

If the consumer wants to leave the natural look of the OSB board and cover it with a transparent varnish for wood, then a special filler varnish must be used.

Grinding

After the first application, the surface is sanded. This is a required step.

Sanding is done for the reason that the varnish raises microscopic villi and the surface becomes like a hedgehog. These villi are removed by grinding.

After the first layer of filler, a second layer is applied. To obtain a high-quality surface, each subsequent layer of enamel or varnish is sanded. If this quality is not required, then grinding the soil or filler may not be done.

For painting OSB, you need to choose a primer. Its purpose is to fill the pores in the wood and create a preparatory layer for painting.

Primer

The industry produces five types of alkyd primers and only glyphthalic is suitable for OSB. It is versatile and suitable not only for wood, but also for concrete, glass and other materials. Glyphthalic primers (GF) may be used outdoors and indoors. They are liquid and easily penetrate the pores.

Their use not only significantly extends the service life of OSB boards, but also makes the painted surface water-repellent. Apply the GF primer with a brush or roller. Drying time at room temperature is not less than a day.

Glyphthal primer is fire hazardous and toxic. It is recommended to use it outside or in a ventilated area; a respirator will not help here.

Advice: Before applying the primer, the dust must be removed from the surface, ideally with a vacuum cleaner.

It is necessary to prime the OSB boards several times with intermediate grinding of each layer until a flat and smooth surface is obtained. Why sand every layer? The fact is that the soil, filling the pores, creates waviness that is invisible to the eye. And although these waves are counted in hundredths of a millimeter, in the sun, due to light and shadow, the OSB surface receives spots visible to the eye.

How to paint: types of paints for facades from OSB boards

For exterior painting for oriented strand board, four types of paints are recommended.

Alkyd paints

After priming and sanding OSB, you can start painting with alkyd enamels. This paint is based on alkyd resins. This synthetic substance is obtained by treating vegetable oils with organic acids at high temperature... This paint is applied with a roller, brush or spray gun. To obtain a high quality surface, sand each layer and remove dust after each sanding.

The main advantages of alkyd enamel are affordable price, resistance to sunlight and low temperatures (up to -30 degrees). It dries quite quickly (up to 10 hours), but it is flammable and has a strong unpleasant odor.

Acrylic paints

Acrylic paints Is a suspended water-dispersion mixture of dyes in a solution of acrylic resins and polyurethane. A distinctive feature of acrylic is the use of water as a solvent, due to which this type of coloring composition has become widely popular for external and internal works... An acrylic primer must be applied to the OSB board before painting.

Acrylic paints for wood are opaque and after they dry, a strong film remains. To achieve different design effects, special substances are added to the paint - plasticizers to give useful properties... Acrylic paints are matte, semi-matte and glossy.

This is the best option - both in terms of cost and duration of operation. Quite unpretentious paint, easy to apply, resistant to various weather conditions. The richness of colors created with the help of color schemes is a definite plus.

Oil paints

Oil paints are not suitable for outdoor use in high humidity conditions, although oil enamels exist for outdoor use. This type of enamel was invented in the last century. During this time, many paints with better characteristics have appeared.

OSB preparation for oil paints is the same as for alkyd paints described above.

OSB surface must be clean, dry, grease-free. Oil paint primer is applied to the slab. On top of the primer - at least two layers of paint. To obtain a high-quality surface, each layer must be sanded.

It is becoming less and less popular due to a large number disadvantages. It is toxic, drips and dries for a long time. The durability of such a coating leaves much to be desired: under the influence of the sun and time, it fades and peels off. The price is above average.

Latex paints

Latex paints are obtained from the sap of rubbery plants with the addition of thickeners, pigments, plasticizers. They have excellent decorative properties. After removing the solvent, an elastic, durable film remains on the surface.

This paint is resistant to abrasion, is not afraid of water, it can be washed. Sometimes matte, semi-matte, glossy. To obtain gloss or dullness, special solvents are added to it in a small amount.

Before painting OSB facades, apply a latex primer. To obtain a high-quality surface, the requirements for the preparation of the slab are increased. It must be free of dust and dirt. Paint with rollers or a long-bristled brush.

This is the most expensive but most attractive option. The dense and durable latex coating reliably protects against bumps, scratches and natural factors, easily stretches with various deformations of the base.

Water-based paint for OSB is not used. For wood, use the water-dispersion paints described above.

How to paint an OSB plate outside the room: painting technology

How to properly carry out exterior painting of OSB facades:

1. Preparation: cleaning from dust, dirt, oils and other contaminants. If washed, it must be dried.
2. Priming the surface with primers corresponding to their type of paints. Pore ​​filling special means to prepare OSB for varnishing.
3. Sanding the surface with wood abrasives of the appropriate grain size.
4. Dusting the surface after sanding.
5. Painting with the first coat of paint and drying until completely dry.
6. First layer sanding with dust removal.
7. Painting with a second coat of paint.

It is recommended to apply the coloring composition 2 times, although 3-4 times are often necessary. This is due not only to the protection of OSB from external factors, but also to aesthetics. Large chips of material shine through a thin layer of paint, negatively affecting the appearance of the facade. It is important that each next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Different ways of decorative OSB coating - video

You can refine the OSB board or give it an antiquity effect using paints and varnishes for wood.

It is necessary to paint OSB with overlapping layers, regardless of what we paint with - a roller or a brush.

Primers may only be used for paints specified by the manufacturer.

White spirit is used as a solvent for alkyd paints. Turpentine, refined gasoline, PC-2, solvent, xylene are also allowed.

There are no solvents for acrylic paints: they are diluted with water. To give acrylic paints a matte or glossy surface, special compounds called solvents are added. To remove dried paint, use proprietary wash solutions.

Oil paints have their own thinners, which include: turpentine, white spirit, pinene, linseed oil.

Latex paints are diluted with water. It is also used to wash off the remnants from brushes and rollers.

Grind the surface with a 180-240 grit sandpaper. The OSB board is already sanded and its surface is ready for painting. The use of coarse-grit sanding pads may result in scratches.

OSB coloring is associated with some difficulties, which, if not taken seriously, can lead to material deformation and uneven coverage. From this guide, you learned which paint is recommended for OSB boards and how to paint them if they are located outside the room.

V modern construction oriented strand boards are very widely used. In the English abbreviation, they are referred to as OSB. Among our masters, they are more commonly called OSB, or, in Russifying the original abbreviation, OSB. This does not change the essence - the plates have won deserved popularity due to their technical and operational characteristics, quite affordable price. They are made from large wood chips, which makes up at least 90% of the total volume, and binders - formaldehyde resins or polyurethane compounds with paraffin-wax impregnation.

OSB is usually used as structural material... It is generally accepted that they are suitable only for a rough surface that requires subsequent closure with one or another finish. But this is not at all the case. It turns out that OSB surfaces lend themselves well to painting, and if desired, they can be turned into a real work of design art. Information about what and how to paint OSB for interior decoration of a house or apartment will be given in the proposed article.

OSB boards can be classified according to different criteria. These are the level of moisture resistance and strength, the presence of locking joints, the environmental friendliness of the material, the thickness of the sheets.

According to their physical and technical characteristics, oriented strand boards are divided into four types. Each of them has its own purpose. Therefore, when purchasing building material, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which they will be used.

• OSB-1 is not highly durable and moisture resistant. Therefore, they are usually used as an auxiliary material. Their cost is low, and they are often used, for example, to create temporary formwork. After dismantling it, it will not be a pity to dispose of the used parts.
• OSB-2 - are characterized by a fairly high strength, but not outstanding moisture resistance. As a construction material, they can only be used for interior work and only in dry rooms. Suitable, for example, for covering light partitions in a room.
• OSB-3 is a product that can be called universal. Plates are used both in dry rooms and in conditions of high humidity, including outdoors. They are used to sheathe walls, form interfloor ceilings, lay rough and "clean" floors from them for decorative coating. Often used as a material for continuous sheathing for some types of roofing.
• OSB-4 - products with high moisture resistance and excellent durability. Therefore, they can be used in various areas of construction, including for the creation of self-supporting loaded structures.

Plates are usually produced in sizes 1250 × 2500 or 1220 × 2440 mm. The range of thicknesses is from 6 to 25 mm. There may be other dimensions in length and width - this is worth paying attention to. Sometimes non-standard sizes allow you to choose the best option for a specific coverage area. That is, they make it possible to avoid a large amount of waste when cutting the material.

OSB boards can be regular and grooved.

• Regular OSB sheets have smooth edges. When sheathing surfaces at the joints with them, it is necessary to observe a technological gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm, which will keep the coating intact during the thermal expansion of the material. Such plates should be rigidly fixed to the base using self-tapping screws screwed in with a pitch of 350 ÷ 400 mm. It is recommended to fasten large OSB sheets not only along the perimeter, but also additionally along the diagonals.

• The tongue-and-groove slabs are equipped with a tongue-and-groove lock. This option is more convenient when the slabs are planned to be used as a topcoat, including under further painting... The joints are more accurate, and the gaps between the slabs are practically invisible. When fastening grooved OSB boards to a flat base, you do not have to use many self-tapping screws. In addition, the products can be used for floating roofs when mounted on a concrete base.

Another important criterion for choosing OSB boards is the materials used in their manufacture. This parameter is especially important if the slabs are purchased for cladding surfaces inside residential premises.

As a binder for wood chips, formaldehyde resins can be used, which release in environment toxic fumes. Such materials have formaldehyde emission class E2 and higher, and are unsuitable for internal use.

For such an application, OSB-boards manufactured according to European standards and marked "ECO" or "GREEN" are suitable. The production technology excludes the presence of toxic compounds in the material. Wood raw materials are preliminarily treated with paraffin-wax impregnations, and polyurethane resins are used as a binder, which after polymerization become completely harmless to the environment.

The affixed class indicates the level of formaldehyde emission. E1 can be considered acceptable for residential premises, but better than E0.5. And the most optimal option is the already mentioned ECO sign.

This option is fully suitable for residential premises. And it can be safely used for painting.

But in order to be sure of the "purity" of the material, when choosing it, you must carefully study the markings on the sheets. And this information must be confirmed by a certificate of quality (conformity) presented by the seller at the request of the buyer.

What painting compositions are used for OSB boards?

Variety of coatings suitable for OSB

For dyeing wood and products based on it, as a rule, several types of protective-dyeing compounds are used:

• - dispersed, made on the basis of polyacrylates and their copolymers, which act as film formers. When solidified, they form on the surface wooden slab sufficiently strong polymer layer. This type is used for painting both internal and external surfaces. These are environmentally friendly compounds, they protect wood from moisture and have an affordable price.
• Polyurethane paints also create a protective and decorative layer on the slab. This composition is mainly used for interior construction and finishing works.
• characterized by high elasticity and resistance to detergents... These formulations are non-toxic and are excellent for painting interior surfaces.
• Alkyd dyes are made on the basis of alkyd resins. The film formed on the OSB surface has a higher strength, in contrast to aqueous solutions... Alkyd paints do not contain toxic substances, they are able to effectively protect the material from moisture and ultraviolet rays, are resistant to fading and dry quickly after application. When staining, a strong odor emanates from the paint, therefore, ventilation of the room should be provided.
• Oil paints have a thick consistency, therefore they form a pronounced thick layer on the surface. They are excellent for applying to the end faces of slabs, as they are able to protect them from moisture absorption. Paints have a specific odor that disappears for a long time after application. In addition, oil paint, unlike those mentioned above, takes a longer time to dry.

In addition to universal paints for all types of wood, there are compositions specially designed for OSB painting. They are usually referred to as paint-primer and have the following features:

• They are able to create reliable protection of oriented strand boards from external influence moisture and ultraviolet radiation.
• The composition has excellent adhesion to the surface of such boards.
• High elasticity and vapor permeability are noted.
• The density of the layer prevents the natural OSB color from showing through.
• The primer paint is produced in a basic white color and can be tinted to the desired shade.
• The primer paint is an environmentally friendly composition. It is made on a water basis with the addition of a special acrylic polymer, mineral fillers and antiseptic additives.

The primer can be used as a base coat, or for surface preparation for the subsequent application of a decorative layer.

Criteria for choosing paint for interior work

When choosing a composition for painting OSB indoors, it is necessary to take into account some factors:

• The type of wood chips and the type of binders used in the production of orienting strand board.
• Decoration method, that is, it is planned to preserve the surface structure of the slab, or to make it smoother.
• Application area (floor or wall).
• Features of the premises in which it will be carried out

The paint should be selected based on the following guidelines:

• Considering that OSB boards consist of 90% wood raw materials, oil paint will be a universal coating for them. Such compositions of the Coloray, Syntilor and other brands are distinguished by their high quality. They have excellent adhesion, minimal absorbency, and the base on which the paints are made (varnish) significantly reduces material consumption. Oil paint forms a reliable, durable protective layer on the surface, so it is well suited for painting OSB boards laid on floors.

• Alkyd enamels are well suited for painting both walls and floors. They also provide a durable, reliable coating. However, the consumption of this type of coloring composition exceeds this indicator for oil.

• Water-based paints are not very resistant to moisture. They are well suited for painting walls in dry rooms. These are environmentally friendly compounds, therefore they are used to decorate the walls of living quarters - children's rooms and bedrooms. Some of the best on Russian market the brands Tikkurila, Teknos, Sadolin and the like are considered. By the way, some of the compounds are still given resistance to regular wet cleaning.

• For finishing OSB surfaces, especially if rooms with high humidity are sheathed, it is well suited polyurethane paint made on the basis of organic solvents. Similar paints from the International Paint, Sterling and Coatings brands are traditionally of high quality. When polyurethane compounds are applied to OSB, they are created in combination with the resins contained in the material, high-strength connections, which makes the coating durable and wear-resistant.

• If it is planned to preserve the original structural pattern of OSB, as well as improve the quality of the surface, the walls are covered with water-based transparent varnishes.

• If OSB is planned to be laid as finishing material on floors, and at the same time it is necessary to achieve a smooth surface, an epoxy compound can be used for coating.

The surface can be decorated by giving the composition the desired color or by adding certain inclusions (sparkles, chips, etc.) to it. Or they retain the natural color and pattern of the slabs. And an epoxy composition is applied according to the technology used to create a bulk polymer 3D floor.

Self-leveling polymer floors - bold decision in interior decoration

The decorativeness of such coatings is generally not limited by anything - it all depends on the imagination of the owners. Self-leveling floors are more often installed on concrete base, but a well-prepared stable OSB surface will also be a good base for them. And how the filling is carried out - read in a special article on our portal.

How to paint OSB

Preparatory work

Prepare the slabs before painting. This is necessary for the paint to adhere well and adhere to the surface.

If it is planned to sheathe the walls and the ceiling with approximate chipboards, then it is easier to carry out preparatory work even before installing the plates on the crate.

Depending on the chosen painting technique, it may be more profitable to do it in advance, before installing the cladding. This is because some of the decorating methods involve several stages of cleaning and painting.

• So, the first step is to clean the entire surface with a manual grinder, on which a nozzle made of sandpaper is fixed.

If you plan to preserve the textured pattern of OSB, then an emery nozzle with a medium-sized grain (approximately P120) is selected for cleaning in order to free the surface from the protective layer of binders. If the slab needs to be leveled to smoothness for continuous painting, then first cleaning is carried out first with coarse (P80), and then with fine grain (P200 and higher).

After removing the top protective layer, the primer or paint will easily penetrate into the structure of the material.

If OSB-3 or OSB-4 boards are purchased, then their cleaning should be carried out most carefully, since they have a more reliable varnish surface coating.

• The second step in preparing the slabs is masking the seams and caps of the screws. Various means are used. For example? can be finished parquet on an oil-adhesive basis or special elastic. A sealant or special elastic tape is used.

If the joints and holes from the screws must be completely hidden, retaining the natural color or making it a few shades darker, then sawdust should be added to the putty, which will remain when the sheets are cut. In this case, the gaps must be filled very carefully, without going beyond their limits. And if necessary, after hardening of the putty mass, the seams are cleaned with a grinder with an emery nozzle.

If the surface is to be smooth and uniformly colored, then elastic tape is used to mask the seams.

• The next step, under a continuous monochromatic painting, a primer is applied to the plates, which can be used as polyurethane-acrylic, acrylic or alkyd varnish. The choice of the composition depends on the base of the paint with which the surface will be coated. When using a water-based varnish as a primer, it must be diluted 1:10 with water.

When choosing an alkyd varnish, "White Spirit" is used as a thinner.

Besides these options? for preparatory work, adhesion primers are used, for example "Aqua Filler". This type of primer is designed to isolate wood from paintwork... These formulations are especially suitable for coating boards made from coniferous wood, since the primer will prevent the resin from bleeding onto the surface.

In addition to the primers listed above, a special primer paint can also be used for preliminary preparation of OSB for painting.

OSB staining

So, OSB boards can be painted in one color, retaining the texture, or by leveling the surface to smoothness. Such staining is not difficult to perform - it does not differ much from conventional application paints on any other base.

The painting process will be quick if the boards are properly prepared. However, there are other techniques that can change the plates beyond recognition, reliably hiding the joints and fasteners.

This is how the slab will look if you simply apply paint to it with a roller or brush. This option is unlikely to be suitable for living quarters. Therefore, some DIYers and professional finishers develop and implement more creative options staining OSB boards.

There are several options available.

The first option for decorating OSB

In this case, the floors are finished using multilayer painting technology. It will take a lot of time and patience to achieve this effect.

To paint the floor, it is necessary to prepare several tones of the same color. The work takes place in the following order.

• The first thing it is recommended to do is to draw up a sketch of the future floor design. Moreover, it is desirable to perform it in two versions - in graphic and color. The sketch will clearly show how the finished coating will look like, and will also help in further work.
• The slab is completely painted with base paint. The base should be the lightest shade of the selected color. To apply paint, you must use a spray gun. Such application will ensure that the paint gets into all the recesses of the textured surface, while maintaining the surface relief.
• To emphasize the depth of the relief, the floors can be lightly smoothed with a sander.
• Now the entire painted surface is divided into fragments in the form of stones or other elements. The markup is carried out with a reference to the drawn sketch, first with a simple pencil. And then "rises" with a brush and paint 4 ÷ 5 tones darker than the base color.
• In the next step, each piece of the coating is painted with paint of a different tone, which must be prepared in advance.
• Further, each of the fragments is cleaned. At this stage, it is not necessary to process the entire surface; you can clean one or both sides of the stone, simulating its bulk.
• Then the contours of each of the stones are drawn again.
• After drying, the surface is covered with varnish, the base of which is selected depending on the type of paint.

This staining option is only available creative person who knows how to work with paints.

The second option for decorating OSB

If you don't want to come up with the shape and size of the stones, you can go the other way. Specifically, lay out a covering of small square slabs. Adjacent panels are laid so that the direction of the laid chips is perpendicular to each other.

This option will allow you to create an original textured pattern of the floor covering and well mask the joints between the slabs.

If the OSB has a color that satisfies the owner of the house, then the coating can be simply coated in several layers with varnish or epoxy, after having previously cleaned the surface. In the event that the shade is not entirely satisfactory, it can be changed with the help of the stain or the technique suggested below.

However, it must be borne in mind that the slabs will have to be sawn for separate fragments, the edges of which should be perfectly flat. In addition, such a flooring option will look aesthetically pleasing only on a perfectly flat base.

The third option for decorative painting OSB

This method of painting the slabs is available to anyone, even an inexperienced master. The main thing in this process is to follow the instructions provided by the professionals.

The photo shows an example of OSB staining, with which the walls are sheathed inside the house. In this case, two paint colors are used for decoration. But if desired, more of them can be involved, depending on the desired result.

How the OSB decorating process is carried out in this technique will be presented using the example of small pieces of the slab in the instruction table.

To work in this case, we used a Kremlin HTI spray gun with a 1.8 mm nozzle, a grinder with emery nozzles having a grain different sizes, and a special sponge with an abrasive surface.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	So the first step is to sand the surface. A grinder is used with an emery attachment with P180 grain installed on it. The process is carried out without strong pressure, since only the protective layer needs to be removed from the plate.
	Since paraffin or wax is used in the manufacture of OSB, as well as resins, the surface of the board must be coated with a barrier primer. It will stop tar and wax bleed-through on decorated flooring. In this case, the FI M 194 barrier soil is used. The soil consumption will be 50 ÷ 60 grams per 1 m². The primer is applied with a spray gun. Drying time for this layer is one and a half hours.
	The next step is to apply a pigment primer to the entire surface of the slabs, which will become the base for creating the color scheme of the finishing material. In this case, a white polyurethane primer is used. Consumption of pigment soil will be 90 ÷ 100 grams per 1 m². The time required for the coating to dry under normal conditions is 3 ÷ 4 hours.
	When the soil is completely dry, the part must be sanded again by installing sandpaper with a grain size of P320 on a sander. After sanding, the surface must be well cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner.
	To create the effect of a delicate shine, the next step is to apply the "Pearl Effect" composition to the surface. The consumption of the wet applied layer will be 100 ÷ 120 grams per 1 m². And then 40 ÷ 60 minutes are given to dry the composition.
	On top of the nacreous layer, also with the help of a spray gun, patina paint is sprayed, which will give the effect of "noble aging". The consumption of this composition is 60-80 grams per 1 m².
	After 5 ÷ 7 minutes after spraying the patina, its excess must be removed with an emery sponge (bar) with P320 grain. Then the entire surface must be well cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner.
	This photo shows the result of the work done. He is already quite capable of becoming the final option. But if you wish, you can continue decorating.
	The next step is to spray tinted acrylic varnish mixed with stain on the slab. Instead of a stain, a different paint composition can be used. The main thing is to take into account the fact that the composition of all the solutions used for staining were organically combined with each other. In this case, a zero-gloss varnish was used. Its consumption will be 80 ÷ 100 grams per 1 m². Drying of this layer should take place for one and a half hours.
	As the varnish dries, the color may change slightly, and its dullness will increase. This factor must be taken into account when drawing up a shade of stain or paint.
	The finish can be matte, glossy or soft touch. "Soft-touch" literally translates as "soft to the touch." This is a special rubbery elastic matt paint finish. This option is perfect for wall surfaces.

When choosing such a staining technique, great opportunities for creativity open up. It is quite possible to come up with your own options that will please the eye.

As can be seen in the shown examples, in any case, the specific surface structure of oriented strand boards can be "played up" in favor of the overall decorative effect of the coating. That is, OSB staining may well be considered a full-fledged finishing technology.

At the end of the publication - a video that demonstrates another method of original painting of the OSB surface, which is simple for one-hand execution.

Video: The original staining methodOSB

In September 2012, I got preoccupied with the use of OSB / OSB boards on the facade: is it possible, what are the minuses and pluses? what types of these slabs and manufacturers, is it only for a while or is it possible as a permanent facade material? how to process, paint? etc...

caused a lot of dialogues and even heated debates, grew to more than two dozen pages. But it also seemed to me that the topic had almost exhausted itself - much that could be said had already been said and discussed. And then I, having analyzed all the answers and advice in this thread, as well as other sources, posted. Since it is difficult to find it in the subject, I decided to copy it into the diary. If you are reading these lines now, I hope this analysis will be useful to you. Good luck! And I will be glad to your comments here or in that topic!
________________________________________________________

Regarding the use of OSB / OSB-3 and 4 boards for outdoor work ​

I'll try to somehow subjectively summarize all the posts on this topic

(taking into account my personal opinion: I really wanted to figure it out).

How OSB / OSB-3 and 4 behave during outdoor work: ​

1) when fully immersed in water swell by 15% for 24 hours (t.zr. Aztek);

2) on the facade, without finishing​

When wet, they swell and acquire a gray tint, but when dry they return to their place, the shade remains gray; of course, the more often both happen, the faster the quality and appearance deteriorate (i.e. Ant, etc.)
- "the first year is practically nothing, it thrives a little from the sun" (t.zr .: ufzyf),
- "OSB-3 is moisture resistant, I have GLUNTS without finishing for a year, without external changes" ... - "Any Canadian OSB will stand for a year without consequences, European for 2-3 years" (tzr: bather),
- "they can hang for a year or two without finishing, then it is better not to experiment" (i.e. rebooter),

3) butts
- swell faster and more strongly than the front sides of the panels. (tsr: ufzyf);
- "it is through them that the maximum moisture saturation occurs"
- contact with water appears "no longer from the outside, but from the side of the house in the place where the OSB is attached. For some time it will stand and will be as always ... The joints will crack." (te: nadejniy)

4) moisture resistance OSB
- "moisture resistant material - it simply means that the moisture absorption parameter (I may be mistaken with the term) is for of this material within certain limits or meets certain standards. Moisture resistant - this does not mean that it can be put in water or in a very humid environment for a long time and it will remain the same as it was. "(T.: Rebooter)

5) "OSB boardsfree from the disadvantages of pure wood- they not susceptible to decay, fungal attack, not flammable"(tzr: manufacturerGutter, fishermen59).

How can OSB / OSB-3 and 4 be used for the facade: ​

- "Information can be found on any website of the OCV3 manufacturer. OSV3 is used for external walls...?" (t.zr .:fishermen59, Ant).

- "intended for work in humid environments but at the same time direct exposure to water or snow is not allowed with subsequent melting "(t.zr.: Alexandrov Nikolay).

- "No OSB manufacturer there is no recommendation for the use of this material as a final facade coating residential building. Nobody in the world uses it like that. "(Tz.con)

- "So far I have not seen a single fact - that it is impossible to use OSB on the facade." ... "regarding the OSB on the facade, I can say the following - I see no reason not to use OSB on the facade: 1. looks great (I like the fact that there is a texture, not a smooth sheet), 2. lightweight (ease of installation), 3. durability (much longer than wood), 4. does not change shape, unlike wood (does not lead it , does not twist, etc.), etc. ... In general some pluses... All OSB manufacturers write the same in the merits) ... We (in our region) have a lot of houses made with a facade made of OSB (tonight I will drive past a restaurant (also a facade made of OSB) -... the facade was made 5 years ago ... (Processing: bottom ...: stain + varnish; top (lighter) only stain) ... - excellent view - everything is in place). That is, external qualities are normal. ... Plates have practically zero hygroscopicity. Here I had scraps - spent a year in the garden in a puddle and mud - nothing has changed. When there is moisture, they absorb it; when it is dry, the moisture leaves (the form remains the same). On the facade, there is no contact with moisture at all, since the sheet is covered with a layer of facade paint (it closes it like rubber and the drops simply roll down). There is also no moisture inside the facade - everything is dry (in a parallel topic I posted a photo of the opening of the facade after 1, 5 years of use) ". (T.: Urgenz)

- "OSB is practically not afraid of moisture, fact. But to be honest, I I see no reason to make facades from this material... ... What is this technology pursuing? Make the facade non-combustible? Or protect it from cracking? So good old siding. The GSP also burns very badly and tolerates frosts quite staunchly, but honor and praise to our builders that they have not yet begun to stick it into all the cracks, not for their intended purpose. So what is written by the manufacturer where smallpox should be applied is where it is needed. ... "(t.z. Kreator63)

- "The installation of the OSB pursued the goal make a facade in the style of half-timbered... You can't do this with siding. And I don’t like siding: plastic - like snot on the facades, but metal rattles and scratches. So we use it in 1% on facades.
Basically, all our houses are made of bricks (the most cheap stuff) and facades from facing. However, it looks very monotonous. In my case, the house was also made of bricks - but I took a construction option (box) + then I finished building it and attached it - so the house turned out to be of different bricks. (I posted a photo). The question arose of how to cover all this. And at the same time insulate the house a little. + Create an original appearance.
The issue of PPP + plaster was not considered immediately - all plastered facades are cracked in 2-3 years. Siding is not an option for the above reasons. It remains only: LSU, OSB, DSP or flat slate. LSU bursts at the point of attachment, DSP and flat slate are heavy to install (weight). Remains OSB. "(Tf: Urgenz)

- "OSB is a tree with all the advantages and disadvantages... There are a lot of examples of finishing wooden outer walls with various coatings, including plaster, and this was done when there was a shortage of finishing materials with ordinary clay plaster on shingles, and the houses are still standing. Well, with the modern abundance of finishing materials to choose from, primers, plasters, paints, etc., etc., there is no problem at all to make a surface coating made of wood that is resistant to external conditions. You just need to approach the solution of the problem correctly, taking into account the characteristics of the material. "(T.Z. LeonKorch)

1) OSB in open form for outdoor work:​

a) open forever​

Cannot be used, especially for roofs or walls without a roof overhang. (t.s.: Ant, nadejniy, Belmar, Urgenz, etc.)

- according to European standards, the use of OSB without decorative coating within " frame house building... undesirable in terms of environmental indicators. "

B) if on the facade of the OSB panel temporarily open, before finishing work, then,
when wet, they can swell and acquire a gray tint, but when dry, return
in place, the shade will remain gray;
- "you do not need to soak, they are already moisture resistant" (t.zr .: ufzyf)

- "I witnessed how, next to my work, they made a roof from OSB like yours on a canopy - as a base, so it stood uncovered for a long time - 1 or 2 months, probably, if not more. Nothing happened to it, then they shut down soft roof that's all. Not altered, that's for sure. ... I remembered - I saw a once started frame from OSB. Began, and for some reason people did not finish. The walls stood for several years without a roof and without protection, and of course it all fell apart. It could not be otherwise, of course. In general, a blockhouse made of a solid bar without a roof for a year all turns blue and black and turns it great. And under the roof - full of houses for many years and nothing. "(T.z. uriuri)

2) Options and rules use of OSB on the facade: ​

general information​

- "If there is a desire to throw money away, then you can use OSB as a finish, and a complete one ..." ... "OSB has never been a final product - it bears only constructiveness - and in the form of finishing it is used only in the furniture industry - but as well as interior material ... "(i.e. birdofprey)

- "...ordinary boards are also not facade material, nevertheless - a block house, imitation of a bar, lining, etc. - are just used on the facades - and nothing, they stand for a long time with proper coating from the outside. I also think it will be with OSB-plates. "

- "Facade decoration of the house on OSB slabs can be done with clinker tiles, ceramic tiles for brick, siding or plastering and painting. As glue for the first two options will do CREPS SUPER. " (t.zr.: Alexandrov Nikolay).

- "Instead of siding, you can screw on" imitation of timber "or" blockhouse "- that is, you can still sheathe something" (tzr: General contractor,rebooter).

- "a combination of panels for a stone" + siding. (t.zr .:rebooter).

a) obligatory gap of 3-5 mm in the joints between OSB panels(this applies to the use of OSB and in the roof, probably), (tz .: Muraveika, Gabriel84, Urgenz, fishermen59)

B) h covering joints:

- elastic sealant(t.view: Ant)
- "at the seams: sealants, tapes, nets" (t.zr .: rebooter)

V) protection, impregnation, coating, painting:

- as protection, including at the ends, from rain and snow can be used paint, but oil-based(t.zr.: Alexandrov Nikolay).

- covering OSB panels single or several-component composition penetratingin pores(not a surface type of film!) and at the same time creating a hydro-protective film: impregnation for wood (stain, antiseptic), facade paint on an elastic base, varnish (yacht or facade). (t.zr. Ant)

- "For preparing the facade for painting we can recommend the following stages in the performance of the work and the materials used: for better "adhesion" of the putty to the OSB board, first it must be applied to it layer of highly adhesive material, as such, you can also use KREPS SUPER glue; then on top of the glue is applied facade plaster layer KREPS VL and vapor permeable paint". (t.zr .: Alexandrov Nikolay).

- "No need to prime and open with anything - OSB is covered with 2 layers of facade paint... I used Dulux wood front... And no problem - the paint covers the OSB like a thin rubber layer. "..." In the case of the facade, the OSB does not submerge in water and has no contact with water at all. Contact with water has only a coating (in my case facade paint). If the paint is good, then there will be no problems. As for the putty - I did not putty, but on the contrary left the OSB structure, it is more beautiful (it looks more like the original half-timbered clay frame, and looks much better than a smooth sheet). ... no changes have occurred with the OSB for more than a year (nothing has swollen) "... Regarding the paint consumption:" dimensions of the house: length 14m * width 7m * height 6m + gables + protruding balcony. The cladding took 88 sheets of OSB * (size 2500 * 1250) - the remainder (trimmings) 10 - 15 m2 = 275 m2 - 15 m2 = 260 m2(this is the total area of ​​the sewn OSB) + at the bottom the base is sewn by the DSP. Paint: painted in 2 layers - it took 50 liters: 1 layer about 35 liters + 2 layer about 15 liters. + about 5 liters left in stock = I took 55 liters in total (the cans were 5 liters each - they turned out to be cheaper than 10 liters (per liter). It is better to select the paint (if you tint) as follows: choose a color in the color table - do 5 l (or less if the packaging of the paint allows) - bring it home - paint 2 layers on OSB (at intervals) and see if the color is right. Since the colors in the store on paper look very different than on the street on the OSB. I got the desired color 3 times and then using the non-standard mixing method (that is, it was in the middle between the standard colors in the table + it was also diluted with white) - since the tinters in Leroy worked fine. Be sure to keep the color number and proportions (in case of subsequent repairs)! The paint, which did not match the color, went for 1 layer - so no waste "Paint: Dulux Trade Facade smooth -" Holds perfectly and 100% protects from moisture. " sp: Urgenz).

- "one feature when choosing OSB- you have to choose sheets without bark or with its minimal presence (... dark brown shavings) ... If even the bark is on the sheet, then it must be removed (just pry off with a sharp object and tear off). This is only the top layer. If the bark is visible among the fibers, then it does not need to be touched. "If this is not removed, then after winter:" The bark burst. However, in this case, everything can be easily corrected ... But it is better to tear them off before painting. "..." How did you solve the problem with the swollen bark. He tore off the bark and painted with the rest of the paint, after 10 hours everything was dry and it was not even noticeable that they were painting. It proves good quality paints - because for a year under the scorching southern sun, it has not lost its color. By the way, you can paint with a small brush to paint over only this small piece. but in general - when buying paint - take it with a small margin (for such cases) and be sure to keep the tinting number "(tzr .: Urgenz).

- "In August I made country house, outside OSV-3, 9mm thick, painted paint * Rubber * in two layers. I liked the paint very much, you can paint it any way you like, the transitions are not noticeable. "(T. fishermen59).

- "use painted OSB as an exterior facade finish is not allowed! "(t.: nadejniy)

- "The wood loses its brightness, darkens and turns gray under the influence of direct sun rays... The varnish does not protect against ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, in the case of varnishing, it is necessary to give the wood a color (in the case of stain it additionally serves as an impregnation for several layers) + apply good street varnish (type of yacht or special facade). So everyone treats wooden houses "(tsr: Urgenz).

D) at item C it is obligatory close the joints between panels OSB (in this case, style like
fachwerk):
- wooden overlays such as board, block house, lining; plastic molding; PPU
molding for facade decor; aluminum overlays; (t.zr.: Ant),
- in this case, the overlays on the panel are better anchor not with self-tapping screws, but glue or "liquid nails" for facade work; (t.zr.: Ant),
- "at the seams: sealants, tapes" (t.zr .: rebooter)

D) if desired plastering on OSB panels it is necessary to apply correct additional material,

because
- "according to OSB, the plaster will hold for some time, cracks at the joints of OSB will appear in the first winter, the edges of OSB sheets will gradually swell, and the finish will darken with them",
- "OSB needs to be closed, there is little plaster" (t.zr .: nadegniy),
- "no painting work on OSB is directly suitable" (t.zr .: General contractor),
- for example, an unsuccessful option: "frame frames were made - panels with polyurethane foam inside, a pale look after a year and then everything turned into very ugly. As an exterior finish on OSB, a basic reinforcing layer Senergy Senerflex Base Cout + facade fiberglass mesh, decorative Classik plaster was used, bark beetle "..." This is an example of the use of one of the most powerful American systems in the wrong execution, there are too large deformations in the joints of OSB sheets ... It is true for many that what I consider to be an obvious marriage is acceptable ... "(t. : nadegniy)

Thus, these options for the pie:

(with the use of overlays on the joints OSB):

OSB + primer+ plaster (better elastic) + overlays

OSB + concrete contact+ plaster (better elastic) + overlays

OSB + primer + armir. net+ plaster + onlays
"Built frame house type of gatehouse. There was a question of finishing. I read a lot of information from the Internet, met and negative reviews, but for some reason almost everything is purely theoretical. Information that someone did paint or plaster on OSB and did not work out or turned out badly simply did not find. Therefore, I decided to make plaster on a reinforcing mesh with a plank finish for an alpine house. "..." It is clear that for the durability of the coating, you need to correctly select the materials, the correct primer, reinforce the seams, apply an elastic coating. I've even found instructions on how to apply coatings on OSB on the internet ... They suggest using a coating that can expand up to 80%. Therefore, the task is completely solvable and it is categorically wrong to say it. "(t.zr. LeonKorch)

(without the use of overlays on the joints OSB):

- wet facade: OSB + PPP(expanded polystyrene; PSB-S 25F) + base reinforcement layer+ decorative plaster (i.e. nadegniy, bather, general contractor, rebooter, con)

OSB + reinforced mesh + primer + putty + elastic plaster (t.zr .: Ant),

OSB + 2 layers of glassine + mesh+ plaster

E) OSB is suitable for ventilation facade, pie options are as follows:

- log house + lathing + insulation (for example, mineral wool) + waterproofing. + counter grill
+ ventilation gap approx. 3-5 cm + OSB (t.zr.: Ant),

- OSB frame house+ siding (t.s.: nadegniy)
"In frame houses, OSB is finished from above with a wet or ventilated facade!" ... "But not the facade cladding!" ... "OSB is not a facade cladding for a ventilated facade, for this there are special materials, for example, Minerite slab." (t.s.: nadegniy)

- "I sincerely do not understand why OSB cannot be used in ventilation facades. It can be protected from swelling with modern finishing materials. The fact that it is flammable is also not the reason. Wood is used (lining, blockhouse) Another thing, economically it is hardly advisable. Cheap initially the material will require constant and expensive maintenance. " (T.V. Nikolai4)

In this analysis, I tried to objectively generalize all the statements, so the conclusions are yours. And with interest I am looking forward to comments, photos, reports and other things on the use of OSB / OSB boards, especially on facades.

________________________________________________________

In addition, I can also advise on this topic:
about painting OSB / OSB:

Using OSB (OSB) slabs to decorate the walls of a house or apartment, many have the question of what can be used to paint such material if it is used for interior work.

Very often, painting is the most in the best way decorate the surface of the walls.

However, given these nuances, it is also necessary to understand that when painting such plates, this option for their design is considered the least laborious, and also less costly, compared to the others.

Therefore, it is worth considering how the staining process itself is carried out and how to choose the right mixture correctly.

What is OSB plate

Consists of compressed and glued together wood particles.

Before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself with the material itself. It is created by gluing wood chips. To make a dense and solid material out of them, polymers are used, as well as various resins.

It is worth noting that the material has its own classification, based on which it is necessary to choose the appropriate option:

• OSB 1- the type of slabs that are usually used for interior decoration walls, floor or ceiling, however, it requires that the moisture content in the room being equipped is as low as possible;
• OSB 2- used for rooms that have a standard humidity level;
• OSB 3- it is possible to use in rooms with high humidity, as well as in case of possible wetting;
• OSB 4- have the best moisture-resistant properties, therefore they are used to create load-bearing structures.

To finish the living room, you can use the option numbered 2 and 3. A more accurate choice will depend on the proximity of the bathroom and kitchen, as well as other reasons for high humidity.

Did you know: the higher the moisture resistance of OSB boards, the higher the price of the boards will be.

The advantage of staining

The main advantage of such processing of OSB panels is that the painted material will not have its own texture.

In addition to the fact that painting is a very simple process, it also has other advantages that appear when it is used to process OSB:

1. In addition to the decorative function of the paint applied to the roughing element, it also protects it from moisture by creating a waterproofing layer. Due to the impossibility of water penetration onto the slab itself, this makes it impossible to deform.
2. Due to the lack of attractive appearance, their painting allows you to hide irregularities with sufficient quality.

Expert advice: the use of OSB boards is recommended when decorating a room from the inside, since it is highly susceptible to moisture.

Speaking about painting OSB boards, it is best to use pigments for this. The reason is that, dissolving in organic matter, they will create a very strong coating layer on the stove, due to which they can serve for a long time.

At the same time, the need to update the finishing will arise only once every ten years. Despite the fact that they are often used for facade work, they are great for treating rooms inside.

Also, oil solutions are considered a popular option for painting plates. Due to their properties, they have excellent adhesion to wood. At the same time, due to its good viscosity, the material is not strongly absorbed into the coating, thereby leaving a good protective layer on the surface.

The average service life of such options is up to 5 years, without the need for updating. And although such paints are considered outdated options, they can be used without problems in order to treat the surface.

You can also use alkyd enamels for surface finishing. However, due to their property of being more strongly absorbed into wood, much more of such mixtures will be needed to finish the same area.

The fact is that due to the absorption of moisture by the material, the consumption of such a dye increases. But their significant advantage is the absence of the need to apply on them, after painting, also a layer of varnish.

Note: usage water-based paints is highly undesirable for processing OSB panels. The reason is that the wooden material will be strongly impregnated with such a solution and, as a result, it can swell greatly and also deform. This, in turn, will lead to the need to replace such plates.

Preparatory work

In order for the paint to hold better, it is necessary to clean the surface of irregularities, apply putty on it, and then start painting

First of all, you first need to prepare the surface of the slabs for further painting. To do this, you need to grind them using sandpaper or special grinders.

In the case when there are any irregularities, flaws on the surface, or the caps of the self-tapping screws used for fixing the OSB simply stand out, putty must be done. After it is completely dry, it is stripped.

Plastering such material will not work, the mixture simply will not hold.

Consider: before applying the putty, it is necessary that the surface is as even as possible.

After that, a primer is carried out using a water-based varnish. It must be diluted at a consistency of 1 to 10, cover the material, and then wait for drying. In addition, there is an opportunity to purchase an adhesive primer that creates an insulating layer between the OSB surface and the applied paint.

Dyeing process

The staining process itself is quite simple, if not trivial.

To do this, you just need to know and follow a certain sequence of actions:

• first of all, using a brush, you need to paint the entire area of ​​the slab, while not sparing the material on the edges;
• further, using a roller, you need to evenly distribute the paint;
• all actions should be carried out exclusively in one direction (if you started to apply paint with up and down or left and right movements, then you need to try to follow the direction), while you need to apply a not very thick layer;
• now it is necessary to leave the surface to dry for at least 8 hours, and apply the second layer in the same way.

Note: how many layers you will have in total depends on how you want to get the result.

If it is necessary to paint OSB from the street, it is recommended to choose those mixtures that are intended for external wood processing. In this case, it will be very important to prime the surface well and create a good layer of paint to protect the material from moisture ingress.

If you follow all of the above tips and adhere to the technology, then the registration process will be very simple and quick. Do not be afraid to take on work that you have not done with your own hands. In addition, the visual aids can be viewed on the video on the Internet.

Watch a video in which a specialist tells how to properly apply paints and varnishes to an OSB board:

Considering how to paint OSB outside, it should be noted that oriented strand boards (OSB or OSB - Oriented Strand Board) are relatively new building material, which has found its application in the design of frame buildings for various purposes, flooring, installation of external and internal partitions etc. The best option facade decoration OSB buildings are the use of traditional materials: lining, siding or clinker tiles. However, the use of OSB in private construction is very often due to a limited budget. Therefore, the most popular solution for external finishing of this material is painting.

The choice of paints and varnishes for external finishing OSB

During the production process, OSBs are impregnated with special compounds that reduce the harmful effects on the material of high humidity, temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, chemical substances etc. Such impregnation is quite enough for transportation and storage of boards in closed rooms, however, after the end installation works it is necessary to finish them.

Oriented strand boards are 90% wood. Therefore, for their coloring, you can use the same materials as for processing. wooden surfaces... In this case, it should also be borne in mind that the selected composition will constantly be under negative influence external factors.

For exterior decoration OSB, you can use the following paints and varnishes:

• oil;
• alkyd;
• acrylic;
• transparent varnishes.

Oil formulations are made on the basis of drying oil. They have high viscosity and good adhesion to wood. Their service life is no more than three years. Among the disadvantages of oil paints, the following should be highlighted:

• toxicity;
• relatively high cost;
• long drying time (more than 24 hours);
• poor resistance to external factors - under the negative influence of high humidity and sunlight, the paint over time begins to crack and peel off, reducing the attractiveness of the building.

The main component of alkyd paints is alkyd resin, which is obtained in the process of cooking vegetable oils with acids. Unlike oil formulations, alkyd enamel has stronger adhesion and better weather resistance, resulting in a strong and durable protective layer upon application.

Acrylic compounds for external finishing of OSB are rarely used. This is due to the fact that they are based on water, which can lead to swelling and deformation of the plates.

Acrylic paints are more often used for interior work in residential premises, because they are an environmentally friendly product, that is, during operation they do not emit harmful substances into the surrounding space.

If you want to preserve the texture of OSB, then for their finishing it is recommended to use colorless solvent-based varnishes. When buying such compounds, you should make sure that they do not transmit ultraviolet radiation, as otherwise this will negatively affect the durability of the plates.

DIY painting of oriented strand board

Any finishing work begins with surface preparation. And painting OSB in this regard is no exception.

Proper preparation can not only increase the life of the paintwork, but also reduce paint consumption, which ultimately will have a positive impact on your budget.

Preparatory work consists of the following stages:

1. Leveling the surface. After finishing the installation of the plates, the surface is carefully checked for irregularities, chips and other defects. After finding them, they are carefully sealed with putty and sanded. If the situation so requires, the slabs can be completely putty to obtain a perfectly flat surface.
2. End machining. The most vulnerable part of the OSB is the edges, so their preparation and further painting must be given Special attention... All sharp edges of the edges are rounded off with a radius of about 4-6 mm, carefully sanded and primed.
3. Finishing assembly seams... All joints between the boards are sealed with acrylic sealant. It is not recommended to use a silicone mixture, as paint is less likely to be applied to it.
4. Padding. Performed with a primer deep penetration, acrylic varnish or diluted PVA glue.

After the primer is dry (about 6-10 hours), you can proceed directly to painting. The paint can be applied with a brush or roller. The choice of this or that option depends on your preferences. First, the perimeter of the slab is painted, and then the rest of the area.

Some novice painters find that it is better to apply one thick coat of paint than several thin ones. However, this opinion is completely wrong. This is due to the fact that a thick layer will lead to the formation of smudges, streaks and uneven drying of the paint and varnish material. Therefore, OSB painting is carried out in several approaches. In this case, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Final part

OSB slabs are an irreplaceable building material, if necessary, to erect a frame structure in the shortest possible time and with minimal financial costs. Various materials can be used for external finishing of slabs: tiles, lining, siding, etc. The most popular finish, however, is staining.

When choosing paints and varnishes, special attention should be paid to their composition. In this case, it is necessary to take into account not only the wood structure of the boards, but also negative factors. external environment that will affect the material during its operation.