Balcony - not only decorative element but also a place where you can relax, sit with friends or even work! But if for a city apartment this is really a multifunctional territory, then in a private house the balcony is no longer so popular.

The relevance of a balcony in a private house

Even at the design stage of the house, it is advisable to decide whether you need a balcony, and if so, how much. Most often, balconies are loved by city dwellers who are not yet accustomed to their own garden. After all, the advantages of a balcony are undeniable:

• aesthetics - a house with terraces and loggias looks much more spectacular;
• convenience - those who like to smoke before going to bed will definitely appreciate going under the open sky;
• functionality - a balcony can become a roof for a veranda or a porch under it;
• extra space - for small area it is much more profitable to make a wide balcony, under which you can arrange a flower garden.

But there are also many disadvantages to the balcony in a private house. So, for morning coffee it is much more convenient to go out onto the terrace, and not go up to the second floor back to the room. Gatherings with friends are also transferred to the gazebo, making the balcony an exclusively decorative part of the facade. And the financial side of the issue does not speak in favor of balconies - such a house will cost much more.

Which balcony design to choose?

Having decided on the construction of a balcony, it is worth considering well its design and location. It can be a cantilever (hanging in the air), an attached or a balcony located in the attic, leaning against the walls of the house (options 1, 2 and 3 in the photo). Constructive decisions differ in the way of fixing the balcony slabs:

1. Slab pinched in the wall - suitable for concrete and brick houses, but is contraindicated for buildings made of aerated concrete because of its weight.
2. Slab resting on beams clamped in the wall - suitable for any house, depending on the material chosen.
3. Slab resting on brackets - triangular supports can be attached to an already finished building, and a variety of options will allow the balcony to fit into any design.
4. A slab with a support only at one end is a variant of a slab cantilevered in the wall, but, thanks to additional supports, a balcony can be made of any width and even for houses from aerated concrete.
5. A balcony on four pillars is, in fact, a tall extension on its own foundation and independent of the rest of the building, which can be erected after the completion of the construction of the house.

Cantilever-clamped slab is used only for balconies up to 1 meter wide. The balcony on the beams can be slightly wider - up to 1.2 m, and on the brackets, a width of 1.5 m is permissible. But using the supports, you can not limit yourself and build a whole terrace.

In this case, it is advisable to immediately install a visor that will protect from the sun and rain. It should protrude beyond the perimeter of the balcony platform by at least 10 cm in front and 20 cm on the sides. If this is the windward side, then the visor must be at least doubled to protect it from slanting rain.

On a balcony without a visor will come in handy Garden swing with an awning roof. It is desirable to choose folding models with coasters for drinks. In winter, the swing just folds up and stows away in the house, and in summer it is a great place to relax, where you can even sleep.

Mounting the balcony on cantilever beams with supports

If professional calculations are needed to install a balcony slab on beams, then using additional supports, you can confidently build a balcony with your own hands. Stages of building a wooden balcony:

1. The choice of supports. This can be both wooden pillars with a cross section of 14x14 cm, and concrete supports. The foundation for the supports can be shared with the house or separate. The first option is suitable for arranging a terrace under a balcony. In the latter case, the depth of the foundation should be below freezing of the soil. The tree must be resistant to decay - larch and oak are great for supports.
2. Digging or drilling holes. They should be at least 10 cm larger than the future posts.
3. Wooden poles are treated with antiseptics, and the lower part is covered with bitumen so that the waterproofing of the ground part is at a height of 15 cm. A pillow of sand and gravel is placed under the wooden support, and the lower part is concreted. After the solution has hardened, the pillars are covered with soil and rammed.
4. Concrete or brick supports require a full columnar foundation... To prevent the heavy balcony from "going" into the ground, the lower part of the foundation is made 10 cm wider than the upper one, for which the formwork is installed in the form of a truncated cone.



5. Longitudinal beams with a cross section of at least 5x25 cm are laid on the supports.The bars are placed on the edge and attached to wooden supports self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete - dowels. Between themselves, the beams can be overlaid with metal brackets or clamps.
6. After that, cantilever beams are inserted into the previously left holes with a pitch of 0.7-2 m, which rest on the longitudinal beams. The tree is treated with antiseptics, and the ends that enter the wall are wrapped in roofing material.



7. Walls wooden house are sealed with a membrane wind-waterproofing. Holes in brick wall filled with concrete, and the joints must be sealed with a sealant.



8. The lathing beams with a section of 5x10 cm are laid on the cantilever beams, and on top - wood flooring... It is advisable to choose boards that are resistant to moisture or to cover them annually with waterproof paint or varnish.

The balcony railing is made at least 1.1 m high.If it is planned to be continuous, between the railing and balcony slab leave a gap for the water to drain. Even at the stage of erecting the supports, the installation of the balcony should be planned with a slope of 2% towards the drain - otherwise the water will linger on the floor.

The principle of building a concrete balcony is the same, only instead of wooden beams channels are used, and along the entire edge of the bottom side of the slab a small groove should be made - a “drip”. It protects the walls of the house from water droplets that can flow from the balcony and reach the junction of the balcony with the house. Without such a groove, any waterproofing will be ineffective, and in case of heavy oblique rain, the entry points of the channels into the wall will get wet.

Features of the addition of a balcony on supports to the finished house

If the house is built and is already inhabited, and you really need a balcony, you can simply attach it! It can be erected as on strip foundation, and columnar. The depth of the foundation is standard - below the freezing of the soil.

Expansion joint device or rigid connection?

The lighter foundation adjacent to the main building cannot be connected "tightly", but only with the help of an expansion joint. V otherwise with inevitable shrinkage, one of the foundations will inevitably be destroyed.

To do this, after installing the formwork close to the old foundation, any elastic material is laid - hard mineral wool or expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 1-2 cm and concrete is poured. After the new foundation has solidified, the joint is filled with an elastic sealant.

In this case, the formwork is placed close to the building and is filled with a cement-sand mixture.

If there is no confidence in the stability of the soil, it is rational to apply a compromise option that combines an elastic and a rigid connection. For this, steel brushes are fixed in the foundation with a layer of glue, which will provide the necessary mobility without breaking the concrete. Building sealant is applied to the entire surface, and the free ends of the ruffs are closed with plastic sleeves.

How to connect a balcony to a wall?

How to make an "attached" balloon? There are two mounting methods:

• with the fastening of the beam, on which the balcony logs will rest, on the wall of the house;
• with the installation of the second row of supports close to the wall of the house.

In the first case, the principle of construction practically does not differ from a balcony on cantilever beams. Unless these beams do not rest on the walls of the house, but on a support board. Such a balcony will not be able to withstand heavy loads, therefore it is not recommended to install furniture on it.

If you use slopes - wooden brackets with an additional transverse bar fixed to them, the reliability of the structure increases. The tree itself is quite plastic, so there is no need to worry about different shrinkage and deformation of the walls.

In order not to rent heavy equipment for lifting the finished concrete slab, you can make the formwork and fill the slab yourself:

1. Metal corners of 100 mm are laid on the supports - for internal and external brickwork.
2. The laying is done up to the level of the future balcony slab. It is important not to forget - so that water does not flow into the room, the floor on the balcony should be slightly lower.





3. The formwork for the slab is also made of chipboard, from the lower side it is supported by beams, and the upper side is covered with a film to protect it from moisture.



4. First, the outer belt is poured and only after it is filled - the plate. To prevent the balcony from "moving away", ruffs fixed with elastic glue are driven into the wall, the wall itself is covered with insulation, and the free ends of the ruffs in plastic sleeves are poured together with the stove.



5. After the concrete has set, the joint is filled with construction sealant.
6. On concrete screed it is imperative to lay waterproofing with a minimum of 15 cm on the wall of the house. You can put street tiles on the floor - it is resistant to temperature extremes and does not require special maintenance.

Do not make a solid wall on an open balcony - rain and melt water will stagnate, it will have to be removed manually each time. Wrought iron railings look much more impressive.

If you want to make a small hinged balcony, the video describes the basic principles of reinforcing mesh construction and its attachment to the wall:

The balcony is a very comfortable place for storage and relaxation. This is an additional place for work, plants, gym. If a balcony is not provided, and you live on the first two floors, then you can do it.
But the most difficult part, perhaps, is the preparation of documents.

If this is not done, your building may be completely demolished or fined. After all, building without permission is illegal.
Be sure to provide the following papers:

• apartment layout
• ownership
• resolution from housing and communal services
• consent from tenants, adjacent apartments
• project of the future extension
• permission from utilities and architects

The easiest way is to contact notaries, they will quickly collect everything Required documents without forgetting about the little things.

The extension will help not only to make living easier, but also to increase the value of the apartment for sale. After all, many first of all pay attention to the presence of a balcony.

How to create a project

Without a project, you will not succeed in any construction. First of all, draw a sketch of the future extension. It is already possible to calculate materials on it. It is important to enter the design so as not to disfigure appearance buildings and take into account all the needs. It is better if you contact an architect or builder, since mistakes in such a matter can be quite expensive, both in terms of materials and time. But now there are excellent programs that give an idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe construction in full. The appearance, the strength of the selected materials, well-chosen dimensions are important.

Balcony options

Balcony mounting methods:

• Most suitable option for multi-storey buildings is a cantilever plate.
• In cottages, cantilever beams are most often purchased.
• Brackets are good for heavy loads.
• Attached balconies are typical for ground floors where the building is simply attached to the house.

If you decide to start building a balcony yourself, then it is best to use extensions or brackets.

Construction creation:

• making a frame (you need to make a base of metal corners in the form of an isosceles triangle; this structure is attached to the wall with anchor bolts; a metal frame is welded onto the triangles)
• the parapet is strengthened
• the window is dismantled, a doorway is formed
• put on the floor a metal sheet to protect against fire and burglary
• carry out flooring and insulation
• the balcony is often sheathed with sheets of corrugated board
• the balcony is insulated and glazed

There are ready-made and made frames of balconies, it is enough to weld them to the wall. Be sure to decorate the balcony with aesthetic decorative elements.

You can make a foundation under an attached balcony, this can really expand the area (the structure is safer than suspended).

To begin with, the foundation itself is being erected. A pit is dug under it, into which blocks for the foundation will then be installed. The depth of the pit is best calculated by a professional; it is important to calculate the level of soil freezing. The depth of the foundation itself should not exceed this parameter. The height of the foundation and the future balcony must match. From a decorative point of view, you need to combine the balcony and the building.

Then brickwork is erected, which will be the main walls of the extension. Try to do this as tightly as possible to the facade. The extension must comply with the waterproofing standards. Better to do double waterproofing. It is important to protect the extension from groundwater and increased level humidity. The roof usually coincides with the slab of the upper floor, or it is made independent.
The entire structure must be insulated and glazed. It is very fashionable now to use panoramic glazing, a cold and warm glazing, for additional comfort, you can install radiators or electric heaters.
Do not forget to put the balcony in order externally. Think over the design and additional elements.

Window-balcony

This is a new trend in design, quite attractive and simple. There are several provisions in this design. For example, an ordinary-looking window can be easily converted into a small balcony with handrails. Good for country house... It can be used as an emergency exit.

But, unfortunately, this Danish development has not yet taken root in our country.

Photo: babyblog.ru, yaplakal.com

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Having a balcony helps people expand their apartment area. It is often used as a storage for old unnecessary things, drying clothes or other functions at its discretion. But in our time, when, due to technology and furniture, living space is becoming scarce, many are thinking about using a balcony as part of an apartment.

Do-it-yourself comfortable, warm, functional balcony

Preparatory work

You can start repairs with your own hands only after all preparatory work... First of all, you need to get rid of everything that will interfere. Things that have accumulated on the balcony, old coatings that have fallen into disrepair, unreliable partitions - all this needs to be removed.

In the course of work, the balcony slab should be checked for voids and coiled elements. In order to assess the condition of the stove, I advise you to seek the help of a specialist. Then think over the course of work and what you need to do with the balcony room:

• glaze;
• insulate;
• ennoble;
• strengthen;
• add a lattice;
• make major repairs.

First of all, it is necessary to free the balcony from things and clean it from unusable structures and cladding.

In the case when you have planned to sheathe the loggia using MDF or lining, it is important to get rid of cracks. Suitable for this polyurethane foam... If the cracks are closed and the foam has dried, its remnants must be cut off and the sections must be treated with a cement mortar. This is done so that the foam does not rot and collapse due to humidity and temperature. Small holes must be closed with silicone sealant... Before starting work, you should prepare materials and tools.

Materials (edit)

In stores where they sell Construction Materials, a wide variety of products that are suitable for finishing works do it yourself. With so many materials, choosing the right one can be difficult. One point helps to simplify your task. The balcony is outer side building. It has practically no protection from wind and rain. Taking this into account, it is important to provide comfortable conditions directly inside the balcony, as well as to insulate it.

Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool

The most common material for insulating a loggia is mineral wool. Of the advantages, the following properties can be noted:

• low thermal conductivity;
• soundproofing;
• chemical and biological resistance;
• fire resistance;
• ease of use.

Moreover, it costs no more than other materials for insulation. To sheathe everything with cotton you need the space that is created thanks to finishing material installed on the frame. Therefore, the lining, plastic panels or MDF will be ideal for processing a loggia.

The largest percentage of heat comes out through the windows if they are not airtight. If the glazing is poor, the effectiveness of the entire insulation is reduced to zero. All your efforts and resources will be in vain. Among different types glazing, the best option would be warm glazing. In this case, metal-plastic double-glazed windows are used. In addition to retaining heat, such double-glazed windows suppress noise, which will be useful for those who live in noisy areas of the city.

Glazing of a balcony with double-glazed windows

Balcony insulation works

It is also easy to carry out floor insulation work with your own hands. Extruded polystyrene foam is most often used. The material is lightweight and dense, adapted to withstand heavy loads and has thermal insulation properties. With the help of an adhesive, the boards are laid on the floor. It is important that the surface is level. For reliability, dowels are attached. A grid is laid on the slabs, after which the floor is poured with a mixture. You can decorate such a floor with anything. Someone is using tiles. But mostly they take linoleum or laminate to make the floor even warmer.

Thermal insulation of the balcony floor with expanded polystyrene

We turn to the insulation of the walls of the balcony. Most often, when choosing a material, they stop at the lining. Of the advantages, it can be noted:

• naturalness;
• practicality;
• profitability;
• durability.

Preparation of balcony walls for clapboard cladding

It is noteworthy that if you refine the walls with wood, it will give your balcony a natural look. The installation of the lining is carried out on the frame. It can be from both wooden slats and from metal profile... Reiki is often chosen.

In order for the material to be as a whole, the frame itself must be exposed on all planes, in order to avoid a drop or bevel.

Work should start from top to bottom. After fastening the frame, the waterproofing material is laid. Roofing material is well suited for this purpose. It is easy to install and relatively inexpensive. All this can be easily done with your own hands.

The balcony is tiled with clapboard

Then we fix the lining. There shouldn't be any difficulties. Doing everything carefully is the key to successful styling. Difficulties can only be during the finishing of corners. But thanks to the skirting board, everything can be hidden.

Arrangement and design

At the end of how to do everything with your own hands, it is important to note the interior of the balcony you created. It can be called the most enjoyable kind of work. You can decorate the room for every taste, depending on how rich your imagination is. If you want to use the loggia for relaxation, you will need pieces of furniture. When the size allows, you can make small sofa... The table and chairs will also create coziness. Such decoration will be appreciated by each of your guests, especially if you add several plants or crafts that you made with your own hands to the interior.

Functional and compact balcony furniture

Important! Ordinary furniture for such a balcony will not work. It should be compact, transformable and lightweight. To prevent fading, the glass can be tinted or a resistant material can be used.

It is better to curtain the windows. If you do not spare money, you can buy blinds or roller blinds. The presence of a locker, paintings, various decorative elements, candlesticks and a mirror will only decorate the balcony. Some people use this place as their own study or office. It is simple to arrange it. All you need is a computer desk and workplace ready! In such a room you can relax, enjoy the view from the window, read a book, or just be alone with yourself. One has only to close the door.

Comfortable work area on the balcony

But you need to protect yourself. Such a luxurious office will not be missed by dishonest people, and everything that you have done with your own hands will be in vain. Therefore, if your balcony is on the 2nd or 3rd floor, you need to provide a protective grill in order to avoid robbery and a threat to your health.

Forged items work best. Before installing the grill, you need to measure the slab and the opening. Only after that you need to order the grill the right sizes... A damaged or unusable slab should be repaired, as it may collapse under stress. In order to make your balcony from the street look aesthetically pleasing, the grill can be closed with plants. Then it will look beautiful, and the grilles themselves will not be visible.

If space permits, a living corner can be placed on the balcony

After such manipulations, the balcony will be an excellent addition to your apartment and will serve long years... And the realization that it is made with your own hands will make you appreciate it even more.

Balcony in Khrushchev with your own hands: step by step instructions

When building private houses with two or more floors, it is difficult to resist the temptation and make a balcony with your own hands. This, in principle, non-residential part of the house (although possible different variants) makes it possible to enjoy nature and fresh air without going outside.

At first glance, it is not difficult to build a balcony, but already during the construction process some difficulties may arise, which it is better to know about in advance, so that later you do not have to redo everything again. All the nuances of building a balcony, as well as detailed technology are given below.

For example, consider the construction of a two-story balcony brick house... The balcony will be located on the main façade above the front door and porch. Brick columns will be used as its supports, turning into pilasters. A truncated arch will crown the central passage between the arches under the balcony. Small arches can also be made along the lower edges of the balcony, but in this example we will do without them.

We build columns under a brick balcony

First you need to decide on the thickness of the columns. They must be strong enough to withstand the load from the structure, and also be in harmony with the overall appearance of the house. Thin columns look sleeker, but may not support the weight of the balcony. In our case, we choose the thickness of the columns in two bricks - 510 mm. As for the material, it is best to choose the same as for the house - shaped dark brick with a rounded corner and an ordinary straight line of a lighter shade to create a pattern on the columns and the arch. When laying bricks, it is important that the seams on the columns coincide in height with the seams on the walls. Since the masonry has a cornice at the bottom - a brick laid on an edge - the first row of column masonry must be cut by 15 mm.

The foundation for the columns should be as flat as possible, which is easy to check by measuring its diagonals, which should be the same. Otherwise, the columns will overhang unevenly over the plinth. If there are small deviations in the length of the diagonals, boards can be attached to the plinth during construction using the "quick installation". When overhanging the base of the column, additional loads are applied. To reduce them, a masonry mesh is laid from the first to the third row of brickwork.

There must be a waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brickwork: two layers of roofing material or a layer of aquaizol. To fix the columns, a metal pipe is produced from the laid foundation.

The order of the masonry of the columns is 720 mm or 10 rows, like the walls of the house, the seams are thin horizontal.

After laying the 15th row, the resulting column frame is installed reinforcement cage, connected from rods with a diameter of 12 mm. After a day, the frame is poured with concrete.

Truncated arch between columns

As noted above, there will be a truncated arch above the aisle between the columns. Windows and entrance doors houses also have arches, which corresponds to a single stylistic decision... The radius of all arches should be the same, the only difference is in height - this will create a single facade pattern.

Monastic puff between the columns

The difficulty lies in the fact that a truncated arch resting on columns, the distance between which is 3 m, creates significant loads on the supports, not only vertical, but also lateral. Despite the fact that the columns are quite strong with a reinforced concrete rod inside, lateral loads will spread them apart and bend. The entire arch will be about 350 kg, 175 kg for each column. The supports will withstand such a load in the vertical direction without problems, but additional measures are needed to protect against deformation caused by lateral loads. For this, the so-called "monastery tightening" is used between the columns. This additional structure, which resembles a large brace, will pull the columns together in the opposite direction to the loads from the arch. Also, the tightening will take on the weight of the superior building.

When the height of the columns reaches the level of the arch placement, a mortgage in the form of a thick-walled pipe is inserted into them and poured with concrete grade 200. The pipe should go inside the column by 250-300 mm, its outer part should be 200-250 mm high.

On the top of the columns, heels are built - supports for the future arch. A pre-prepared wooden template for a truncated arch is installed on the finished heels - it was circling. You can read about how to make it in the article on making arches.

Pipes protruding from the columns - embedded for "monastery tightening" - are interconnected by three rods of reinforcement using electric welding.

For this, ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm is selected.

The height of the reinforcement at the top of the arch should be 130-140 mm, so as not to interfere with the laying of bricks when the arch is set.

Thus, the upper parts of the columns are securely fixed by the "monastery tie", which will not allow them to disperse to the sides under the influence of the weight of the arch.

Arrangement of the arch under the balcony slab

The arch itself is made of the same bricks as the columns and the house. The width of the arch is equal to the width of the columns. If some kind of ornament was laid out on the columns, it is usually repeated on the arch, which makes them seem to be one whole. In order for the ornament to turn out to be correct, you need to calculate the number of bricks in advance and mark their location on the template. Due to the rather large distance between the columns, the number of bricks can be adjusted (plus or minus one brick).

The construction of an arch is not difficult. On a warm summer day, it can be done in a day. If you start in the morning, in the evening it will be already possible to remove the template and embroider the seams. Leave finished arch for a long time it is undesirable, because then it is difficult to clean the brickwork from the frozen mortar. On the second day, you can already begin to compress the arch from both sides with a facing brick.

In this case, the front masonry should not go flush with the bricks of the arch - it moves inward by about 40 mm so that the arch and columns protrude outward. This will add extra volume to the balcony's appearance.

Walls of facing bricks are being erected above the arch, while the columns are being completed further, turning into balcony pilasters.

On the sides of the balcony, the brickwork rests on a 100 mm corner. You can also make arches on both sides, but in this example, a flat corner is used. Please note that you need to make a decision whether to make side arches or not right away - then it will be difficult to make them. Side arches will fit more harmoniously into general form houses where almost all openings are arched.

Exterior brickwork above the arch is laid out to a level slightly above the floor level on the second floor. Internal masonry- up to the installation level of the balcony slab. The inner masonry, like the outer one, is slightly displaced relative to the arch (by 40 mm) so that the arch protrudes forward from all sides.

Laying height of the balcony slab

How to correctly determine the mounting height of the balcony slab? Usually it is tied to the floor level of the second floor, taking into account the layer of insulation. Best option balcony is a balcony closed type, which can be used not only in summer in sunny weather, but also all year round... For such a balcony, you definitely need additional insulation both the floor and the walls. If it is not done, the balcony slab will become a "cold bridge" through which frost will enter the interior through the brick wall.

Thus, the level of the balcony slab should be lower than the level of the finished floor on the second floor by an amount equal to the thickness of the insulation layer - 80-110 mm.

Formwork for the device of the reinforced concrete belt of the balcony

Next, the formwork is placed on the sides of the balcony between the walls of the front masonry, where there are no arches that fit reinforcement mesh and concrete will be poured. The mesh is knitted with a knitting wire made of rods with a diameter of 12 mm; for transverse reinforcement, rods of 10 mm are selected.

The formwork, cut from chipboard, is fixed from below with a knitting wire, which is tied from above to pieces of reinforcement.

For better fixation, the wire is tightened with a nail, then the formwork will firmly press against the masonry, and will not deform under the weight of the poured concrete.

The reinforcement mesh is laid in the formwork, resting on fragments of bricks, so that when pouring concrete it is completely in the solution, without contacting the bottom and not looking out, which can cause rust on the metal.

To create a frame over the arch, three veins of the "monastery tightening" reinforcement are tied with 10 mm thick reinforcement. The result should be a triangular frame.

Pouring the balcony slab

To fill the balcony slab, you need to make a formwork. The most the best option Chipboard formwork is considered. In area, it should be slightly larger than the opening and rest on the masonry from all four sides, going into them by about 10-15 mm. So that the formwork does not move to the sides, but is rigidly fixed in place, its movement can be limited by reinforcement inserted into the slots of the brickwork on both sides.

From below, it is also fixed with the help of its propped boards, so that there are no deflections during pouring. It is better to nail the boards to the formwork. Chipboard surface covered with a film to protect against moisture, which is present in the concrete, so that the chipboard does not get wet. You can walk on a properly secured formwork.

A grid of ribbed reinforcement with a thickness of 12 mm with a cell size of 250x250 mm is laid in the formwork. The reinforcement is tied with a knitting wire and laid on the chips of bricks.

When pouring, grade 200 concrete is poured first into the sidewalls and arched sinuses, and then into the formwork for the slab. The slab thickness is 100 mm.

Please note that there must be a layer of insulation between the balcony slab and the floor between the floors. In the cold season, it will prevent frost from entering the house through concrete and brick.

Balcony wall construction

After pouring the slab, you can start building the walls of the balcony. Since the slab is below the floor, one row of masonry is laid out on it. The masonry can be made of backing bricks, but in this case the cold will penetrate into the room, since brick is a poor insulation. It can be replaced with foam or aerated concrete, shell rock or other solid insulation.

The distance between the front and backing masonry is filled with mineral wool. Insulation layer thickness - 100 mm. For the reliability of the balcony walls, it is better to insulate with mineral wool twice: inside and along inner surface between the wall and the plasterboard sheathing.

For bandaging the backing and front masonry, a masonry mesh with a mesh size of 50x50 made of wire 3 mm thick is used. The pilasters are tied with the backing masonry using a wide mesh, which is laid at intervals of 8 rows of the front masonry. Every 4 rows of the front masonry, the pilaster is tied only with the front one.

The sequence of wall construction is as follows. After 8 rows of front masonry, the space between the masonry is filled with insulation (mineral wool).

Then 3 rows of backing are built from blocks with dimensions of 180x180x390 mm. The clutches are tied together with a net, and the process is repeated anew.

The balcony window, like the windows and the entrance doors of the house, is arched. Its dimensions are 1880x1872 mm, the radius of the truncated arch is approximately equal to the radius of the arch under the balcony. Around the edges of the window, there is a frame made of dark brick with a rounded corner, from which the columns were built. An arch is drawn from it.

A dark brick cornice with a rounded corner is laid along the upper row of walls. The cornice will be double, common to the whole house.

Run device for floor slabs

Since from the inside, the balcony is an extension of the living space of the second floor, it breaks the load-bearing outer wall to a length of 3050 mm, as a result of which it turns out that there is no support for the floor slab on the second floor. To fill the gap in the wall, a purlin is made - a large load-bearing lintel.

You can make a run by connecting two I-beams with a height of 160 mm. They are connected to each other by electric welding.

So as not to break during installation reinforced belt along the perimeter of the building, I-beams have different lengths... To strengthen the run, a reinforcing cage made of ribbed rods with a diameter of 12 mm is installed in its middle, a formwork is attached to the I-beams from below, into which concrete grade 200 is poured. Concrete must be poured into the run in parallel with pouring the main reinforced concrete belt.

Such a girder is smaller in comparison with a reinforced concrete one. Its height is only 160 mm, while the height of the reinforced concrete girder would be 300-400 mm. It depends on the height whether the run will protrude from the wall in the room and how much. If extra protrusions are not included in your plans, it is better to replace the girder with a double-shelf girder - the same girder, only with shelves on the sides, on which the floor rests.

Overlapping the balcony with hollow core slabs

It is cheaper and more convenient to use ready-made hollow-core slabs as an overlap, rather than pouring in a monolith. When installing the overlap between it and the cornice, a backing masonry is laid out, leaving a gap for the insulation layer mineral wool 100 mm thick.

Building a roof over a balcony

Above the cornice, four rows of backing bricks are laid out, the width of which is 380 mm. This is done not only above the balcony, but also along the entire perimeter of the house.

The Mauerlat is attached to the masonry with the help of anchors, then the rafters, and the filly to the rafters.

The roof in our example is four-pitched with a tie-in over the balcony, the tie-in rafters are fastened with a scabbard. More detailed description roof construction can be read in the related article. The width of the roof sheathing is 500 mm.

Waterproofing is laid on the roof frame, which is attached with a stapler to the boards and is additionally fixed on top with a counter-lattice.

Next, the lathing for the roofing material is attached, on which the metal tile will be laid. Gutters, wind, etc. are attached to the frame, the roof is mounted, various additional elements are installed.

That, in principle, is the whole construction process. Now you know how to make a balcony with your own hands.

Open or closed balcony

Finally, consider the advantages and disadvantages of two types of balconies: closed and open.

Open balconies- it is more an element of decor than functional room especially in our climate. At its core, this is practically the same gazebo, only located not on the ground. Why do they make an open balcony? It is believed that this is a kind of unity with nature: like at home, but still on the street. Only here the conditions here are the same as in nature: the scorching sun, snow, rain, wind, dust, fallen leaves, etc. You can use such a balcony only in the warm season and only in good weather. In addition, moisture that gets on it will very soon render the finish unusable, and seasonal temperature drops will cause cracks on the floor and in brickwork... Not even a few years will pass, and you will no longer want to go out onto such a dirty and dilapidated balcony, but it is expensive to constantly repair it.

Usually open balconies or terraces are made in houses built in southern countries, from there this fashion came. But there is a different climate, there is no winter and sharp changes temperatures, less precipitation. We just don't make sense to build an open balcony. Many developers, who were "led" to the beautiful appearance of such a balcony, eventually realized their mistake and decided to convert it into a closed one.

Closed balconies when manifesting fantasy, they can be no less beautiful than open ones. They can also be decorated with flowers, forged trellises, etc., only at the same time they will also protect inner room from precipitation, winds and the sun, as well as the ingress of various debris in the form of leaves and branches from trees. In warm weather, by opening the windows, you can turn it into an open balcony, but at the same time remain under the protection of the canopy - the roof of the balcony. In the cold season, it is enough to close the windows in order to continue using it. Some make balconies with heating, install underfloor heating or air conditioning, or use insulation. In any case, such a balcony can be used all year round.

A closed balcony can be a continuation of the room, as in our example, which will significantly increase the living area. If it is located on the main facade, it also acts as a canopy over the porch.

In most cases, balconies are also made to decorate the building. In our example, the balcony goes well with the house, repeating it exterior decoration, ornament on the walls; arch and arched window echoes with arched door and window openings houses, a common cornice unites the balcony and the house, and the inset on the roof above the balcony makes its structure more complex and original.

Thus, if you want to make a balcony in your home, give preference only to a closed-type balcony. Otherwise, anyway, sooner or later, you will want to close it and isolate it from the influence of weather and seasonal conditions. Open areas and balconies will be idle most of the time, gradually losing their appearance and ceasing to be a decoration of the house.

The need for self-erection a balcony often arises from owners of private houses or residents of apartments in which the presence of such a room was not initially provided for by the design.

The work of building and finishing the balcony can be handled on their own... Study the provisions of the given manual and get started.

Construction options

There are 2 main options for building a balcony, namely:

If the structure is attached to the second and higher floors, it must have additional supports. It is forbidden to fasten the building exclusively to the wall - it will not withstand.

The function of supports is most often performed by columns. They fit well into the surroundings and complement the architecture of the house.

Before starting work, draw up or order a balcony project with a detailed diagram from a specialized organization.

Building a balcony on a foundation

If the balcony is attached to the first floor, it will be quite simple strip base... In the case of arranging an extension on the higher floors, build.

In general, the arrangement concrete foundations remains practically the same. The following is an instruction on how to build a strip-and-column foundation. By removing the recommendations for installing poles from the manual, you will receive ready instructions for the installation of the strip base.

First step. Mark the future foundation on the ground. Use pegs and a cord for marking.

Second step. Get rid of the topsoil. Dig a trench of the required depth (determined in accordance with the characteristics of the soil on the ground) and holes for the posts.

Step three. Drive in (screw in) the support piles. You can also make the supports yourself from pipes, concrete pillars, or other suitable materials. To ensure additional strength of the installation, the bottom of the pits can be poured with a 20-30 cm layer of concrete before the installation of the posts. The empty space between the walls of the pits and the posts after their installation is also filled with mortar.

Fourth step. Tamp the bottom of the trench, cover it with a 10 cm layer of gravel and 15-20 cm layer of sand. Tamp each layer of backfill thoroughly.

Fifth step. Assemble the formwork from sturdy planks.

Sixth step. Lay the reinforcement cage. Use rebar with a diameter of 10-14 mm. As a result, you should have a reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of no more than 150x150 mm.

Seventh step. Pour concrete and give it a month to cure. It is recommended to dismantle the formwork after the concrete has completely hardened.

Eighth step. Cover the frozen foundation waterproofing material(bitumen, roofing material).

Ninth step. Cover all voids with earth.

Tenth step. Tie the posts along the upper edges using a channel. The height of the balcony foundations must match.

Balcony construction

First step. Lay a wooden or reinforced concrete slab on the finished base.

Second step. Using a punch, create an opening in the wall for mounting the balcony block.

Step three. Install balcony block... After installation, level the slopes with cement mortar and seal the existing gaps with polyurethane foam.

Fourth step. ... For this, it is most convenient to use building blocks, for example, from foam concrete. They have a relatively low weight and will exert a noticeably less load on the foundation compared to the same brick.

The thickness of the walls should be at least 25-30 cm. Bring the walls to the upper floor.

In the process of erecting walls, perform reinforcement every 3 rows.

In the end, it remains to equip the roof. The roof structure should be designed with a certain slope away from the house.

To arrange the roof, it is enough to lay wooden logs or mount metal carcass, and then lay the finishing roofing material.

Will perfectly cope with the functions of support columns wooden bar square section. Select the parameters of the timber individually. Most often, supports with a side of 100 mm are sufficient. Instead of a bar, you can use another suitable material at your discretion.

The columns must be installed strictly vertically, otherwise there will be no question of the reliability of the balcony structure. To ensure verticality, support the columns with temporary struts while the foundation dries.

Floor

Lay a 4 cm thick planed board on the floor. Pre-treat the material with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Lay the boards across the support beams. Leave a 2 to 3 mm gap between the planks to drain sediment.

Use self-tapping screws to fix the boards. The heads of the fasteners must be slightly sunk into the material.

Railings

And the last structural element balconies are railings. The choice of material of manufacture, design features and appearance of the railings is at the discretion of the owner. If you wish, you can do without them altogether by making fences of concrete slabs of suitable size.

Glazing

For can use wooden frames or metal-plastic structures... In this moment, everything also remains at the discretion of the owner.

Thermal insulation of the balcony

Necessarily . Start on the floor.

Floor

Styrofoam slabs work well for the floor. The material is characterized by high thermal insulation properties and tolerates well different kinds load.

Line up the base and stick to it foam boards using a binder specially designed for this. Provide additional fixation plates with plastic dowels.

On top of the insulation, lay a mounting mesh on the glue, and then fill the entire structure with a self-leveling mixture.

Instead, you can do based on wooden crate, fill its voids with thermal insulation, and fill plywood or boards on top.

As the finish flooring linoleum is well suited for a balcony. You can also use waterproof laminate and other materials with similar properties.

Walls

Attach a timber frame to the walls. Determine the step of fastening the slats according to the width of the insulation.

Cover the frame waterproofing film... To attach the film, use construction stapler... Be sure to glue the joints of the waterproofing material with tape.

Fill in the crates with your choice. Lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Fasten the material also using a construction stapler.

On top of the finished insulating cake, fill the second crate, perpendicular to the first, for mounting the finishing material.

Ceiling

The ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool.

Nail a 10mm thick batten to the ceiling. Fix the boards with the edge down.

Fill the gaps between the boards with insulation.

Cover the insulation with waterproofing material and nail additional transverse strips to the boards. They will retain heat and moisture insulation, as well as provide the necessary ventilation gap between the insulating cake and the finishing material.

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Insulation

Lining is well suited for a balcony. The material has excellent properties without extra effort fastened to the crate with clamps.

External finishing of the structure is most often done with siding. This material is characterized by high reliability and excellent performance, has an attractive appearance and is easy to install without the involvement of third-party installers.

In general, when choosing a finish line, be guided by your personal preferences and available budget.

Happy work!

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Wall panels

Video - How to make a balcony with your own hands