Hyacinth is one of the first to start to delight the eye, announcing the opening of this spring season. This unusually bright flower has a magnificent aroma, and its colors will not leave anyone indifferent. You can see not only white, pink or purple flowers, but also unique black specimens. Hyacinth, planting and caring for which will be the topic of today's conversation - universal plant that can feel great in open ground, it is suitable for early forcing and looks great in the cut.

Hyacinth bloom

Hyacinth, planting and caring for which we will certainly consider in all details, begins to bloom in different terms... In general, they depend on the variety, but, as a rule, blue hyacinths are the first to delight us with their flowers. Then pink and white varieties begin to bloom, followed by red and lilac. The yellow ones are the last to bloom.

The flowers of this plant are always large. Visually, they represent a racemose inflorescence containing up to 30 flowers. They may look like tubes, bells, or funnels, but they always carry a strong scent around. Flowering lasts approximately three weeks.

Seat selection and landing

Planting hyacinths is far from easy. Disembarkation and further care require certain skills and knowledge. When choosing a place for a flower, the following conditions must be observed:

1. Landing is carried out in well-lit sunny places.
2. The flower bed should be protected from drafts and too strong wind, as this can destroy the plant.
3. Do not plant flowers too close to bushes and fruit trees... Even if hyacinths are not shaded, the powerful root system of these plants will take away all the nutrients.

To prepare seat best still at the end of the summer season. It is necessary to carefully dig up the ground, scatter the necessary fertilizers and leave the garden in this state immediately until the moment of planting.

The best time to plant

Hyacinths are planted in September or October. The main condition: the soil must still be relatively warm, that is, its temperature should not be lower than +10 degrees. Sort the bulbs before planting planting material... As practice shows, medium-sized bulbs take root best. The little ones die, and the big ones are better left to winter at home.

Some subtleties of landing

Now that you know when to plant hyacinths, you need to carefully track the timing of planting. If you speed up events and plant a flower ahead of time, then it will begin to grow, and with the arrival of frost it will certainly die. Late planting will also negatively affect hyacinths, since the bulbs will not have time to take root and will freeze with the onset of winter.

Flower care

Hyacinth, planting and caring for which is absolutely no different from ordinary gardening activities, blooms almost the very first among all garden flowers, therefore, they begin to care for him as soon as the ground thaws slightly.

First of all, it is necessary to remove the shelter and mulch, which played the role of insulation. After the first sprouts appear, you can proceed to the main agrotechnical measures: loosening, feeding and watering.

Hyacinth, which will not be too difficult to care for, does not like the neighborhood of weeds and does not tolerate compacted soil well. That is why the ground at the foot of the flowers should always be in a loose state. This will create an optimal air regime for the bulbs, and will also help retain moisture.

Watering

Dry soil can cause poor flowering of hyacinths, so they need mandatory watering. It is necessary to water the flower abundantly so that the water gets to the root system of the plant. It is about 15-20 centimeters deep. But you should not be zealous, because the plant does not tolerate well. excessive moisture... Especially carefully it is necessary to monitor the state of the earthen coma during the formation of flower buds.

Top dressing

Hyacinth, the care of which also includes feeding, will certainly delight you with a friendly flowering, if you use our recommendations. For the first time flowers are fertilized in early spring when mass shoots appear. Best fit next lineup mineral fertilizers:

• ammonium nitrate - 20 grams per square meter;
• superphosphate - 15 grams per square meter;
• potassium chloride - 10 grams per square meter.

The plant needs nitrogen especially acutely during this period, since there is an intensive growth of the vegetative mass.

After the buds appear, hyacinths are fed again. The proportion is used here: superphosphate - 40 grams per square meter; potassium chloride - 30 grams per square meter; ammonium nitrate - 20 grams per square meter.

The next fertilization is the end of flowering. It is during this period that the plant begins to actively accumulate the substances necessary for itself. At the same time, the formation of buds of resumption of growth occurs, as well as the laying of new axillary buds. This will be a phosphorus-potassium supplement. Both drugs (potassium chloride and superphosphate) are applied in the same amount: 40 grams per square meter.

Feeding can be done in two ways. The first is dry incorporation into the soil, the second is irrigation with fertilizers diluted in water.

Home hyacinths: growing

Forcing a plant at home can begin from the moment the sprouts on the onions planted in pots stretch 2.5 centimeters. Right now, hyacinth (photos of these flowers are presented in sufficient quantities in the article) can be transferred to a warm room, where the temperature reaches +12.

It is very important to correctly determine this moment, since the hyacinth moved too early into the heat (the flower is very sensitive to temperature changes) will respond with slow growth and weak flowering. If you are late, you will get lush foliage growth, which will slow the onset of flowering.

In the early days, the plant must be protected from direct sun rays, as they can burn the delicate leaves. As protective means you can use a regular folded newspaper.

The hyacinth is transferred to a warm room with an air temperature of +20 at the moment when it begins to form a peduncle. At the same time, the plant can be fully exposed to the sun. The place where the hyacinth will stand (the flower, as already mentioned, is very sensitive to temperature changes) should be located far from heating radiators, and be protected from drafts.

Since hyacinths grow at home under short daylight conditions, they need additional lighting. A day for plants should be at least 15 hours long. Additional lighting will help create ordinary lamps daylight... While the plant is in bloom, the pot will need to be rotated periodically to provide more even illumination.

Watering hyacinths, focusing on the earthen lump. It should not dry out, since lack of moisture causes weak flower growth and flowering. But an overabundance will certainly lead to rotting of the bulb. And, as a result, to the dropping of buds and the death of the plant.

Top dressing of domestic hyacinths is carried out at the specified time and with the same fertilizer composition as for open ground plants.

Hyacinth: planting and care - digging up a plant

Digging up and subsequent planting of hyacinth bulbs is one of the most important agrotechnical procedures that are a guarantee successful cultivation these colors. It not only enhances flowering, but also allows you to revise the planting material, weeding out diseased plants.

You can start digging out flowers at the moment when the foliage of the plant withers and turns yellow. If you skip this period, then the ground part will simply dry up and fall off, and finding the bulbs will be quite problematic.

Usually this process occurs at the end of June - beginning of July. The dug up plants are freed from the leaves, the bulbs are cleared of the ground and dried within a few days. It is necessary to lay them out under a canopy. After that, they are processed more thoroughly: excess scales and roots are removed. It is also necessary to separate the formed "children". Planting material is stored in paper bags, which are best placed in a regular box.

Now you know when to plant hyacinths and when to dig them up so that the plants will delight you with their flowering. We will be very happy if our article helped you get answers to all your questions. Have a great season! And let your favorites delight you with lush flowering!

With the arrival of spring, hyacinth or the so-called "rain flower" appears on store shelves. This is a miracle of wonders, which has something to admire: a rich palette of magnificent inflorescences of flowers-stars and juicy bright emerald foliage. The strong pleasant aroma is also delightful. So, if you are imbued with the idea of ​​growing a symbol of spring, love and fidelity in your summer cottage, you will be interested to read some tips and tricks for correct fit hyacinths in open ground in autumn and spring.

Types and varieties of hyacinths

Today, as a rule, only 3 varieties of hyacinths are distinguished:

The most famous and suitable for growing in our gardens and at home in pots is the oriental hyacinth.

Carnegie variety

There is enough a large number of varieties oriental variety, which, in turn, are divided by size, color and color of flowers (white, yellow, red, pink, blue, purple, blue, etc.), as well as by the timing of flowering for early-medium and late flowering, while the difference between their flowering - only one and a half weeks. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to come to the dacha early to catch their flowering, it is better to choose late varieties.

Video: types and varieties of hyacinths

When to plant hyacinths: optimal planting dates in autumn and spring

Naturally, like all bulbous, hyacinths are planted in the fall before winter. At the same time, you need to choose a time so that the bulbs have time to take root, but do not germinate. That is, if you do this before the necessary time, then the frosts will simply destroy the plant that has sprouted, and if later, then the bulbs will not have time to take root and will freeze again. Therefore, it is very important to know the optimal dates for planting hyacinths in autumn, which will differ depending on the region of your residence and the corresponding climate and weather conditions.

Important! If you planted the bulbs at the right time, but suddenly, according to the weather forecast, a sharp cold snap is expected, then you should increase the layer of mulch or cover the plantings with spruce branches or fallen dry leaves.

Thus, in middle lane(Moscow region) hyacinths should be planted in the second half of September - early October, in the Urals and Siberia - in late August and early September, and in the southern regions - throughout October.

Is it possible to plant in spring and how to do it

If you were presented with blooming hyacinths in a pot (for example, on March 8 or some other spring holiday), then after they have faded, in order to preserve the bulbs, the plant can be planted in open ground. To do this, you first need to cut the peduncle so that it does not take excess nutrition from the bulb. You take out the hyacinth bulbs together with the earthen clod and bury them to the same depth at which they grew in the pot, having previously poured a layer of sand on the bottom as drainage. Then cover with nutritious soil and water, wetting the soil around the bulb, and not itself. If suddenly, according to the weather forecast, you find out that return spring frosts, then on this day it is better to cover the plant bulbs with non-woven material. When you see that their leaves are dry, then you should get rid of them by removing with pruners or scissors.

Advice! If for some reason you do not want to plant hyacinths in the spring, then you can do otherwise. Wait until the leaves of the plant dry up and cut them off. After that, take out the bulbs, dry them and store them until autumn planting.

Video: planting hyacinths in spring

How to plant hyacinths outdoors

In order to enjoy the beautiful flowering and the favorite aroma of hyacinths for a long time, it is necessary to provide for the most suitable place for planting, as well as prepare the bulbs themselves and the soil for further work.

Pick-up location

A properly chosen planting site can greatly facilitate the cultivation of hyacinths in the garden. At home, these bulbs grow in a very warm and dry climate, so they must be planted in sunny areas, without drafts, where there is not the slightest stagnation of water, otherwise the flowers can rot very quickly due to the presence of a very thin skin.

Many people plant hyacinths under trees because they bloom at a time when there is still no dense foliage. However, it should be borne in mind that trees suck out almost all nutrients from the soil.

These bulbous flowers look good on.

As for the neighborhood, it is beautiful to plant hyacinths with other primroses, for example, with,,,

By the way! You can grow hyacinths both in large garden pots, so in small containers at home on a windowsill or balcony.

Soil preparation

Hyacinths need a neutral soil, and it is imperative that it be loose and moisture-permeable, in other words, the most suitable is sandy loam.

Before planting, it is advisable to dig up the earth to a depth of 40 centimeters and make organic fertilizers- compost, humus or peat, as well as mineral - superphosphate, potash fertilizers (for example, wood ash). And if the soil is heavy (clayey), then the sand, too acidic - limestone (dolomite) flour.

Important! In no case should fresh manure be introduced for digging and planting bulbous ones.

Selecting and preparing bulbs for planting

Naturally, the purchased onion must be outwardly dry, clean and healthy (without signs of disease and damage, especially at the bottom), and dense and elastic to the touch.

If you want the hyacinth to bloom powerfully right away, then it is recommended to choose 4-5 cm bulbs, 2-3 cm bulbs are very young, there will be few flowers, but you should not buy too large 6-7 cm bulbs, these are already quite old specimens that are about to be updated.

Thus, the higher quality planting material you purchase, the better plant will look and bloom more luxuriantly.

And before planting hyacinths, the bulbs should be pickled and disinfected in a solution of one of the special fungicides, for example, Maxim Dachnik, Fundazol, or in the old-fashioned way in potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.

Direct planting of bulbs

Step-by-step instructions for planting hyacinths in open ground:

Video: planting hyacinths in open ground in the fall

If you want to make yourself a portable flower bed that you can move depending on which part of the garden you are in (near the house, next to the gazebo), or just dig into the ground (because you like the aesthetic look of flowers in a pot), then watch the next video.

Video: a method of planting hyacinths in large garden pots

Outdoor hyacinth care

Some time after the autumn planting, when the first cold snap begins, if you have not previously mulched your future flower bed with hyacinths, you need to do this now, or even better, cover it with spruce branches or dry fallen leaves (you should not do a heavy shelter), you can use straw.

And in early spring, when the snow melts, and you first come to the dacha, the entire shelter will need to be eliminated so as not to interfere with the sprouts from making their way towards the sun.

Blossoming of hyacinths, as a rule, occurs in April-May, and the duration is only 1-2 weeks.

Advice! There is a little trick on how to get bigger and taller colors. Namely, in the period before the onset of budding, you need to cover the flower bed with hyacinths with a dark (black) film, due to a lack of light, the sprouts will begin to stretch, thereby the peduncles will noticeably increase in height.

Watering

Watering hyacinths should be taken seriously, stagnation of moisture is contraindicated for bulbs, but the earth should not dry out, so try to moderately and shallowly moisten the flower bed. Especially often (but not abundantly) it is necessary to water the plant during the period of its budding and the beginning of flowering, as well as within 2 weeks after.

Advice! Do not forget to loosen the soil after each watering so that the ground does not crack and the flower bed looks beautiful.

Top dressing

Top dressing is a very important point of care in growing hyacinths. Standard scheme looks like this (* the consumption of any mineral fertilizer is about 40 grams per 10 liters of water, and better according to the instructions on the package):

Thus, if you water and feed the hyacinths in a timely manner, they will delight you with their beautiful, lush and fragrant flowering.

And after flowering, be sure to cut the peduncles so that the plant directs all its forces to provide the bulb. Now it remains to wait until the leaves of the flowers fade and turn yellow, so that they can be dug up for the summer before the next autumn planting.

When to dig up and how to store hyacinth bulbs

By the way! If you can not dig it up for 3-5 years, then hyacinths are advised to disturb and get out of the ground yearly... Although some growers have been successful in allowing these bulbs to grow in the garden until 3 years old, but it should be understood that a flower bud is laid only if the bulb lies for 3 months in a warm and dry room.

Bulbs of hyacinths, as a rule, are carefully dug up (stepping back from the bush by 8-10 centimeters) after they have withered, they dry (but not completely) and the leaves turn yellow (about May-June, about 3 weeks after flowering). Then they should be thoroughly rinsed under water in order to immediately discard low-quality bulbs.

Now the future planting material needs to be disinfected in one of the special means, such as Maxim Dachnik or Fundazol, or prepare a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then dry well, and before the mortgage itself for storage, peel (if desired, you can wrap it in newspaper) and put the bulbs in boxes (for example, from under shoes), bags or containers and store in a warm and dry place. It is noteworthy that for the first time you need to store at a sufficiently high temperature (+25 - .. + 30 degrees), and then gradually lower it so that before disembarking it is about +17 degrees.

If during the digging you see babies on the bulbs, then you can separate them and thereby multiply the hyacinths, preserving them in the summer and planting them separately in the fall.

If you purposefully decided to start growing hyacinths in the open field in autumn and spring, then choose the right variety and correctly determine the timing of planting in the ground. It would also be very wise to prepare the bulbs and soil for planting in advance. It is equally important to know how to store hyacinths.

Video: planting, care, cultivation, digging and storage of hyacinths

In contact with

Hyacinths have long gained wide popularity among gardeners in Russia due to their rich color palette and fragrant buds. These plants are commonly grown both at home and in garden beds. With the appropriate knowledge, the hyacinth bulb can be reused for new flower “harvests”. When planting hyacinths, the main focus should be on the bulbs, since incorrectly selected planting material often leads to premature death of the plant. We will correctly tell you how to plant and care for hyacinths outdoors.

It is advisable to decide in advance on the area where you are going to plant hyacinths. When looking for such a site, you need to take into account several important details that affect the germination of a plant:

Soil preparation

Prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance - no later than two months before the bulbs are immersed in the ground. Such terms are explained by the fact that after digging, the soil will take time to settle. If you are late with digging the soil, then there is a high probability that it will begin to descend with the bulbs already placed in it, which is fraught with damage to the roots of the planting material.

The preparation itself consists of two main stages:

• digging the soil onto a shovel bayonet (about forty centimeters deep);
• fertilization. Fertilizers enriched with nitrogen are best suited for planting hyacinths, you can also use universal options- rotted compost or peat. Fresh manure is capable of burning planting material, therefore it is not recommended to use it exclusively.

In addition to the mandatory preparatory actions described above, you can also pour ash into the soil (which is an excellent mineral fertilizer), as well as add special sustained-release granules designed specifically for garden plants.

Soil deacidification

Preparing the soil will include one more stage if your soil is characterized by increased acidity. Before immersing the bulbs in the ground, you should first start liming it. While this activity may seem troublesome at first, it has a long lasting effect and does not need to be repeated frequently. If the first time you do everything right, then you can forget about acidity for the next few years, only occasionally correcting its indicators.

The choice of material with which liming will be carried out depends on the type of soil.

Table 1. Materials for liming the soil

Material	Description
Slaked lime or fluff	Suitable for clay and loamy soils. One square cop will require from 400 to 600 grams of fluff, depending on the oxidation state
Dolomite flour	It is used on sandy and sandy loam soils. One square meter will require from 350 to 600 grams of flour
Wood ash	Wood ash is versatile, but it takes a lot of it to work. In addition, ash is not able to replenish calcium reserves in the soil. One square meter will require from 600 to 800 grams of ash

Liming stages

Soil cultivation takes place in two stages:

• First step. This stage is the main one and involves the distribution of the selected product (lime, flour or ash) over the soil in the autumn period simultaneously with the introduction of organic fertilizers;
• second phase. Re-liming is not necessary, but it keeps the acidity level at a consistently low level. It is carried out annually, while the "doses" of the introduction of deoxidizing products are reduced by two or three times.

Video - Methods and terms of liming the soil

Landing dates

The most suitable time for planting hyacinths is the short period between the end of September and the beginning of October. Of course, when planting, it is important to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region, since the approximate dates are repelled by the arrival of frost.

In central Russia, planting bulbs at the end of September, you prevent two unfavorable scenarios at once:

• too rapid growth of hyacinths, due to which they will not be able to survive the impending frost. Such a result awaits those gardeners who plant the bulbs prematurely;
• unsuccessful adaptation of hyacinths to the soil, as a result of which they do not have time to take root, dying underground. Such an outcome will overtake the bulb if it was planted too late.

It should be noted that with skillful soil handling, the bulbs can be planted even at the beginning of November. However, with such a decision, additional efforts will be required from the gardener - the area on which the planting material was placed will need to be covered with mulch, which will save the soil from freezing. It is permissible to use as mulch:

• sawdust;
• compost;
• spruce branches.

Important! If you are going to mulch the soil, remember that at the end of winter cover layer must be removed in advance so that the mulch does not interfere with the penetration of the hyacinth sprouts.

You can read more about mulching and its beneficial effects on the soil below.

Preparing the bulbs

After the bulbs have been in storage for some time, it is advisable to subject them to processing so that they germinate faster in new soil. To do this, it is advisable to dilute potassium permanganate in clean water in advance (to obtain a weak one percent solution of potassium permanganate) and hold the planting material for several minutes in this solution.

In addition to potassium permanganate, you can also use any of the fungicides you have in stock:

• Maksim;
• Fundazol;
• Homa.

Each of these products has its own characteristics of impact, therefore, before using it is important to read the instructions on the packaging.

Bulb selection

The preparation of planting material implies mandatory procedure rejection of spoiled, cracked or showing signs of disease. Select the bulbs that will give best harvest it is possible, focusing on the following signs:

• in diameter, healthy and strong bulbs should be from four to six or even seven centimeters (however, the dimensions of the planting material largely depend on the variety. For example, terry variety has a small size);
• the diameter of the bulb should be one and a half times the circumference of the bottom;
• the planting material should be strong and elastic to the touch. Hulls and other plant residues should not crumble from it.

Landing

Since hyacinth bulbs are not a disposable planting material and can be used for several years, they should be given sufficient free space, an area of ​​at least 15x20 centimeters. If you are using young or smaller bulbs, this area can be reduced as needed.

The planting depth is very simple to calculate - this requires multiplying the diameter of each bulb by three:

• large bulbs with a diameter of more than five centimeters deepen to a distance of 16-20 centimeters;
• compact bulbs, whose size does not exceed five centimeters, are placed to a depth of 12-15 centimeters.

Important! When deepening the planting material, it is necessary to take into account the type of your soil. If the ground on your site is heavy, then two centimeters should be subtracted from the resulting value. If the ground, on the other hand, is light, then these two centimeters should be added. This measure will prevent the bulb from coming into contact with the freezing soil.

In order to avoid decay of the bulbs, it is recommended to fill the bottom of the planting holes with sand, which will serve as a drainage and attract all of the excess moisture... The average layer of sand should be from three to five centimeters. Planting material is gently immersed in this sand, after which it is additionally sprinkled on top, first with sand, and then with soil.

Watering is carried out in cases where no rain has passed a couple of days before planting.

Landing features

If you want to subsequently grow beautiful and evenly blooming flower bed, then you should take care of correct location planting material. It is important to remember that it is advisable to group and plant bulbs of the same varieties and the same size close to each other. Mixing different varieties will lead to the fact that the outside of the flowerbed will look disharmonious.

Growing

After breaking through the sprouts, the gardener can exhale - the most difficult stage is behind, the bulb has taken root in the soil and has begun to develop. Now the main tasks of the gardener are the prevention of all kinds of plant diseases and its timely feeding.

After landing

Hyacinths are quite fragile plants that need careful care and attention from the gardener. Therefore, shortly before the arrival of the first frost, it is important to think about sheltering the bulbs. If you have previously poured a layer of mulch, then the issue of shelter can be considered resolved. If you have not managed to do anything yet, then you can either use sawdust or humus, which will save the planting material from freezing, or turn to a special covering fabric.

Fertilizer

Hyacinths do not need frequent feeding. In total, these plants have to be fertilized three times in one season:

• the first fertilizers are applied with the appearance of the first shoots. To accelerate the germination of hyacinth, it is recommended to use ammonium nitrate (30 grams per square meter of garden);
• for the second time, the need for feeding arises already with the appearance of the first still unopened buds. At this stage, the plant will need a complex fertilizer consisting of the already familiar ammonium nitrate (20 grams), superphosphate (40 grams) and potassium chloride (30 grams);
• the third and final top dressing occurs at the end of flowering and includes components such as superphosphate and potassium chloride. Both fertilizers are taken in the same amount - 40 grams each.

After flowering

Many do not experienced gardeners wonder what to do with hyacinths after they bloom. Some people prefer to get rid of the plant, but if desired, its bulb can be used as planting material and on next year... There are two main options for storing the bulb after the hyacinths have flowered:

• leave the bulb in the soil;
• dig up the bulbs and send it to storage.

Due to the fact that a bulb left in the ground tends to rot or dry out, most gardeners prefer to turn to the second option, which involves additional trouble, but also provides a better end result.

If you want to subsequently use the bulb, then at the end of flowering, the inflorescences of the hyacinths should be cut off (so that they do not absorb a significant proportion of the nutrients). As a result, you should only have leaves that should be watered until they dry out. In no case should you tear off the green mass, since the leaves continue to feed the bulb until the last moment, which ensures its greater viability in the future.

You can read more about how and how to store the onion in recent months in a separate article on our portal.

Video - Care for faded hyacinths

Diseases

Hyacinths can hardly be called painful plants, in garden conditions they are practically not prone to ailments common among flowers. Most often, hyacinths are faced with such an unpleasant disease as bacterial rot.

Bacterial rot

This disease is easily recognized by the "liquefaction" of the tissues covering the bulb and their gradual transformation into mucus. At the same time, a strong unpleasant smell of rotting begins to emanate from the infected bulb. Beautiful and vibrant flowers can hardly be expected from these bulbs.

The only method of dealing with the disease is to burn the infected material and process the planting pit (if the bulb has already been in it) with the following means:

• five percent formalin;
• bleaching powder.

This site cannot be used for planting new hyacinths in the coming years.

Loss of inflorescence

Falling out of an inflorescence is not, strictly speaking, an ailment, but it brings a lot of grief to the gardener, who so diligently grew hyacinth to obtain a strong and abundantly flowering inflorescence. The main prerequisite for such an unfortunate incident is an increase in root pressure. In turn, an increase in root pressure in plants causes errors in bulb maintenance, such as:

• excessive soil moisture;
• storage of planting material in too cold rooms;
• improperly chosen planting time (as a rule, the inflorescence falls out with premature planting).

Pest attack

Unfortunately, outdoor hyacinths are not protected from pests that attack both the aerial part of the plant and its root system. The most common "uninvited guests" that appear on hyacinths are:

• flower flies - the danger of these insects is that they eat the bottom of the bulb, which leads to the rapid withering of all other parts of the plant;
• the root mite, as its name implies, is interested in roots, damage to which just as quickly leads to a deterioration in the condition of the plant;
• bear - like the two previous pests, it feeds on the underground organs of hyacinths, causing them the greatest damage.

Due to the fact that all these pests are hiding under the ground, it is possible to recognize their presence only by indirect signs- wilting of leaves, drying of a plant, and so on. If you suspect the appearance of pests, the following means come to the aid of gardeners:

• tabazol;
• aktara;
• fly eater.

Causes of diseases

If we talk about the prerequisites for the onset of diseases in hyacinths in general, then most of them are somehow associated with improper care:

Distillation

If you want to speed up the growth of hyacinths, then you can always turn to such an option as forcing. Hyacinths can be forced both in soil and in the aquatic environment. However, the pot and soil option seems more familiar to most gardeners, so it is used more often.

For forcing, as well as for planting in open ground, it is important to prepare in advance. In order for the bulbs to germinate, they must undergo summer storage at high temperatures- not lower than twenty-five degrees. Also, it should be borne in mind that only large planting material is suitable for forcing - the bulbs you choose should not be less than five centimeters in diameter.

Forcing hyacinths: step by step instructions

Step 1. Choose a small container that doesn't differ significantly from the diameter of the bulb. When the hyacinth is immersed in a spacious pot, the plant will take much more time to adapt and root, therefore it is important to choose a proportionate vessel. When growing several hyacinths at the same time, you can use the cactus.

Step 2. Punch a few holes in the container and place planters or Styrofoam on the bottom to act as a drain and remove excess moisture to keep the bulb from rotting.

Step 3. As a soil mixture, you can use different components, however, the "formula", consisting of peat, sand and garden soil in equal quantities, is recognized as optimal. Some gardeners only use from this list garden land and sand, giving up peat. You can even grow hyacinths in river sand alone, since bulbous plants do not need any nutrients throughout the growing season. The potting soil should be about half full in the container.

Step 4. When placing hyacinths, do not try to deepen them into sand or soil. Put the planting material in the soil mixture and cover the bulbs with wet sand so that they remain one and a half centimeters open on top. Then tamp the sand with your hands and pour.

Step 5. Pick up tight paper bag blocking light, and cover the container with the bulbs with it, signing the date. In this position, hyacinths will spend the next month and a half at a temperature of five to ten degrees. If this condition is not met, you run the risk of encountering deformed peduncles, or with a lack of flowering.

Dear gardeners, today we will talk about a wonderful hyacinth flower.

Hyacinth is a bulbous sturdy one, with a thick stem and fleshy tough leaves, and all this is crowned with a fluffy brush of delicate flowers with an extraordinary aroma!

The plant looks great, both as solo in a pot and in group plantings, in which it looks like an extraordinary fragrant carpet. At the same time, it has a rich palette of colors, which allows you to create beautiful combinations... And also looks great in the company of other colors.

Flower history

The homeland of hyacinth is Asia Minor and the Mediterranean. Wild flower forms grew there, which were not as lush and beautiful as today's hyacinths, but nevertheless the locals happily grew them in their gardens, enjoying their modest beauty and aroma.

Only in the 16th century, the flower was brought to Europe. It was there that his stormy selection began. Especially in this regard, Holland excelled. It was there, with particular zeal, that the breeding and selection of the plant began. They managed to obtain unprecedented flower colors and an increase in their number on the stem. Until now, Holland remains the "second homeland" of hyacinths, it is from there that the bulbs are sent all over the world.

Hyacinth became so fashionable that he was an indispensable inhabitant of the gardens of the rich. Still, the bulbs of new varieties with massive inflorescences were prohibitively expensive. Gradually, the fashion for them spread throughout Europe. In Germany, they were grown in whole fragrant fields, for which entrance fees were charged. The French discovered that the plant can be grown without soil, in water, or even upside down.

Hyacinth came to Russia only at the end of the 19th century and also firmly established itself in the gardens of wealthy families. In Russia, a tradition has emerged to drive out their fragrant arrows for the New Year, Christmas and Easter. This blooming piece of spring looks very impressive when there is a blizzard outside the window.

Photos of hyacinths with the names of varieties

Let's take a closer look at these wonderful flowers and see their photos.

After the reorganization of the botanical catalog, it was decided that hyacinth has only 3 species: oriental hyacinth, Litvinov's hyacinth and Transcaspian hyacinth.

Oriental hyacinth

The most widespread is the Dutch Oriental Hyacinth, the varieties of which we will now consider. After all, it is he who is the main inhabitant of our personal plots, gardens and balconies.

Just look at these beautiful flowers, they are just a sight for sore eyes!

Forcing hyacinths

Forcing is the artificial sprouting of a bulb. Many people confuse forcing with planting this plant in open ground, and generally get confused when to plant hyacinth, in spring or autumn? Let's understand these concepts.

Forcing is an artificial creation suitable conditions and the germination of the plant, the stimulation of its flowering, outside its natural timing. Usually distillation bulbous plants produced in winter or early spring, often for the holidays - New Year and March 8.

It is quite another matter if you plan to plant a hyacinth in your garden in a permanent place so that it grows there and delights you with its beauty. It's already called landing, it occurs in compliance with the natural requirements of the plant.

According to the rules, planting hyacinths is carried out in the fall, it is the autumn cool period that the bulb takes root and lays a flower bud. After that, having successfully overwintered, in the spring it will decorate your garden with its flowers.

When forcing, this cool dormant period will have to be imitated, or specially prepared bulbs must be purchased.

Hyacinth bulbs are poisonous. Poisoning symptoms - diarrhea, vomiting, impaired renal function, blood clotting. They must not be eaten, and children and animals must be protected from them.

If we buy bulbs from shops and garden centers, they must be marked for winter distillation, which indicates that the bulbs have gone through the cooling period and have been properly prepared.

The bulbs should be large (5 cm or more in diameter), healthy and strong, in a word, ready for the hardships of winter flowering. They should be free of mold and rot, and should not be soft. Before planting, we store them in a dark, dry place at a temperature of 16-17 degrees.

If you want to distill the plant from your own bulbs, from your garden, then you will need to prepare them yourself, going through several stages. It is necessary to dig them up in advance (from June 20 to July 5), dry thoroughly at a temperature of 25-30 degrees and store at 17-20 degrees in a dark room.

Forcing in pots with soil

2-2.5 months before the expected flowering date, the bulb must be planted in a pot. To do this, we use a not very large container, put a drainage layer on the bottom, fill in a suitable soil.

Before planting, remove the babies from the bulbs, if any, and bury them (bulbs) 2/3 into the ground so that only the top of the head remains sticking out. The soil should be moderately moist. The bulbs of this plant do not have a dense protective shell and therefore easily rot from excess moisture.

The next step will be a cooling period. For our plantings to take root, they need coolness, darkness and a temperature of only 4-9 degrees. For these purposes, a basement or cellar is suitable, glazed loggia, heated garage, cold storage room, refrigerator.

There the bulbs take root, give the first leaves and a peduncle. After that, they can be taken out and placed in a well-lit place. At first, hyacinths transferred from a dark place to a bright light will need to be shaded.

Very often, the surface of the earth in a container with hyacinths is mulched with moss or lichen. It not only gives an attractive decorative view, but also protects the soil from drying out quickly.

Forcing hyacinths in water

One more interesting way- distillation of hyacinth bulbs in water. The technology is almost the same, but for germination, a glass container is used that is suitable in size, with a wide neck, to which the bulb is installed. Water is poured inside, its amount should not be less than 300 ml. The distance between the bottom of the bulb and the water should be about 2 cm to avoid decay.

The plant will take root by itself and reach the water. When the bulb is set, it must also be placed in a dark, low temperature place until the root system and flowering leaves are developed. A refrigerator will do. During the entire time of germination, water must be added to the vessel with the flower.

Once the leaves and the flower arrow appear, the plant can be transferred to heat. The peduncle must be covered with an opaque material until it reaches 10 cm. Complex fertilizer can be added to the water.

In the warmth, hyacinths develop and bloom quickly.

But, with regard to this method, it should be noted that flowering during distillation in water will last less, and the bulb itself will be greatly depleted. Therefore, if you plan to grow hyacinth more than once, then the bulb will need to be planted in the garden in the fall.

Detailed hyacinth forcing video in water:

Distillation in hydrogel

An innovative method of forcing a plant that uses a hydrogel instead of soil and water.

A hydrogel is a polymer compound capable of absorbing an amount of moisture several times its own weight.

The hydrogel balls are poured with water with a complex fertilizer, according to the instructions, and placed in the filled container of the hyacinth bulb. The subsequent actions are the same as in the two previous methods: installation in a dark, cold place, and subsequent transfer to warmth to light.

Planting hyacinths

Let's now consider planting hyacinths in open ground... In order for these beautiful flowers to decorate your garden in spring with their elegant inflorescences, you will need to plant them in the fall.

Typical landing time: September - October. You need to focus on the climate in your area. If you are still warm by the end of October, then you should postpone the landing. In warmer regions, planting may be delayed until November.

We plant hyacinths when the average daily temperature no longer rises more than 10 degrees. The planted bulbs should be able to take root and bud before winter, but should not germinate in time. Bulbs hibernate directly in the ground.

How to prepare hyacinth bulbs for planting and at what depth to plant

The preparation of the bulbs consists only of antifungal treatment: it is necessary to hold them in a solution of Fitosporin or another fungicide for 20 minutes.

For planting, you need to dig holes, 30-40 cm deep and add there:

• 150–250 g of well-rotted manure or humus;
• 250 grams of limestone or 15 grams of magnesium sulfate;
• 200 grams sifted wood ash or 30 grams of potassium sulfate;
• from 60 to 80 grams of superphosphate.

Hyacinth prefers loose soil. If you have clay soil or dense black soil, you will need to dilute it with river sand or peat. Also, do not plant hyacinths in a low-lying area, or in a place where rainwater accumulates.

The planting depth of the bulb depends on its size. For large bulbs (over 5 cm), the planting depth is 18 cm, for smaller bulbs - 12-15 cm.

Hyacinth planting video

You can see how you need to plant hyacinths in a flower bed in autumn in this video:

Outdoor hyacinth care

All caring for this plant in the ground is reduced to regular fertilizing with complex fertilizers, loosening the soil, weeding and watering in hot weather. Otherwise, these are very unassuming flowers that do not require special attention.

Hyacinth after flowering

After the hyacinth has faded, do not immediately dig up the bulbs. It is necessary to continue watering and feeding until the peduncle and leaves turn yellow, so the plant will inform us that it is preparing for the dormant period.

Many gardeners are wondering if it is possible not to dig up the bulbs for storage every year and leave them in the ground? We answer: yes, it is possible, but it is worth remembering that then the flowering for the next year may be weaker.

Residents of the southern regions can afford not to dig up the bulbs at all, in which there are optimal conditions for the onion to have a good rest and gain strength until the next flowering in spring.

In central Russia, the digging of hyacinths on winter storage still recommended. Optimal term for the extraction of bulbs: the last decade of June - early July.

The bulbs are dug up, all that is left of the vegetation, including the roots, is cut off. The bulbs are packed in boxes in a well-ventilated area, dried and stored in a dark room until autumn. In the fall, you will need to plant them back in the ground.

Hyacinth propagation

At one time, the Dutch and other Europeans suffered a lot with attempts to propagate hyacinths. Daughter bulbs of this plant do not always appear, but if it does happen, then their number is no more than one or two.

The Dutch really wanted to put the hyacinth trade on stream, and for this it was necessary to somehow speed up the reproduction. And here, there would be no happiness, but misfortune helped. Once in one of the botanical gardens, during storage, some of the bulbs were gnawed by mice. They gnawed at the bottom of several bulbs.

Imagine the surprise of the botanists when the damaged bulbs suddenly overgrown with children along the entire damaged circle, and there were a lot of them! Until now, this method is used by gardeners. Before the bulbs are sent to rest, the bottom is cut crosswise with a sharp knife, or cut in a circle.

After these manipulations, the damaged surface is sprinkled with a fungicide and the bulb is sent for storage. In a few weeks, you will see the rudiments of daughter bulbs.

How to do this in detail, see this video:

Now you know all the nuances of growing hyacinths that will help you grow these beautiful flowers!

Hyacinth can be both a home plant and a garden plant. Hyacinths begin to bloom in early spring. Their flowers are very bright and fragrant. If we talk about modern hyacinths, then they can amaze the imagination with their color variety - from white to burgundy-black, pink and purple. Hyacinth is a versatile flower that can be suitable for timely forcing and cutting. How to plant hyacinths correctly, where to grow them and how to propagate them will be discussed further.

How to choose a place for planting hyacinth

Hyacinth is a thermophilic plant that grows in countries with warm climates. Hot summer and absence sub-zero temperature- ideal conditions for growing a plant. Therefore, for planting hyacinth (its bulbs), you should make sure that the place is sunny and also closed from cold gusts of wind.

A feature of hyacinth is that the bulb does not have a dense peel that protects it. Therefore, these plants do not tolerate high humidity soil. Therefore, the area you have chosen should be perfectly level, not have pits, depressions in which water can accumulate. The soil itself must be breathable. If, on the site close to the surface, groundwater occurs, then hyacinth bulbs should be planted using drainage, as well as a high bulk ridge.

Preparing the soil for planting a plant

The question of how to properly care for a hyacinth worries many experienced gardeners. You need to start by preparing the soil for planting a plant. The best option for a plant, it will be planted in sandy loam, light, slightly alkaline, neutral, rich in organic matter and nutrients earth. Heavy clay soil can be used only after a general improvement in its structure, which is achieved with the help of sand, as well as mineral and organic fertilizers.

The main condition is that the preparation of the beds should be carried out in advance, namely, no later than a few weeks before planting. This will give the soil time to settle and compact. The soil itself must be dug up to a depth of 40 cm. Compost, humus, potassium salt and superphosphate are introduced into it.

Important!If you do not have enough fertilizer, then they can be added only to the holes.

In order to improve physical properties soil, chalk is introduced into them, dolomite flour, lime and sand. After that, the beds can be covered with black foil in order to drown out the germination of weeds.

Terms and scheme of planting hyacinth

For hyacinths, the planting and care scheme in the open field is quite simple. If you are in the middle lane, then the hyacinth should be planted in September, but if in the south, then planting should be carried out in early October, when the soil temperature drops to 10 ° C. If hyacinths are planted early, they will not only take root, but also germinate, which is why they will freeze in winter.

Late planting is considered dangerous, since the bulbs cannot have time to germinate and take root, which also leads to the suffering of the plant during the winter cold.

Hyacinth can be planted according to a certain scheme: a larger bulb is planted at a distance of 25 cm from the shallow one, leaving about 10 cm.The hole in depth should reach 16 cm, since this is a triple height of the bulb, if you count from its bottom. You can plant in autumn - the main period when hyacinths are planted.

Planting in autumn

You need to plant hyacinths in early autumn (around October or September). Gardeners recommend not choosing too large bulbs for planting. It is better to take medium (flower beds), which can adapt their peduncles to unstable weather. The bulbs should be sorted out, selected soft, diseased, damaged.

Did you know?Before planting hyacinth, its bulbs must be kept in a fungicide solution for 30 minutes.

The depth to which you want to plant a hyacinth bulb is 17 cm if your bulbs are 6 cm in diameter.The distance between the bulbs should be 15 cm, and between the holes - 20 cm. If the bulbs are shallower, then they are planted at a shallower depth. The flower grows well in open soil. To do this, create a so-called "sand vest" - a layer of river sand 4 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the furrow, a bulb is slightly pressed into it and covered with sand again from above, and then with earth. This method will prevent water from stagnating in the soil and will prevent the bulbs from rotting. After you have planted the bulbs, water the area thoroughly.

Planting in spring

Do not try to plant hyacinth in the spring - during this period it is not planted.

Features of watering hyacinth

The flower should be watered when it is dry season. The ground should be soaked 15-25 cm deep. Hyacinth blooms during spring, and at this time the soil is very well moistened, because the snow has just melted.

Important!When watering hyacinth, take into account the temperature condition environment, moisture level, soil moisture. The flower should not be waterlogged.

If too much moisture accumulates, it will lead to rotting of the plant and the death of the flower.

Top dressing and soil care

The hyacinth flower needs at least three feedings. They should be applied dry or dissolved. If you choose the second method, then you do not need to take too much fertilizer, and the soil should be thoroughly moistened before adding top dressing. The first feeding is carried out at the very beginning of flower growth. At the same time, experienced gardeners use a ready-made mixture, which includes saltpeter and superphosphate. The second fertilization occurs during the budding period. Third, after the plant has stopped blooming. In this case, a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is used.

When to transplant hyacinths

For the first time, hyacinth blooms very brightly and magnificently. But each bloom reduces the percentage of the plant's splendor. Therefore, in order to maintain the hyacinth in excellent condition after the flower has faded, it is necessary to engage in its obligatory transplant. Hyacinth is one of those plants that love to change their habitat. To prevent diseases during transplantation, you can treat the plant bulb with special chemicals.

For a successful transplant, you need to wait until the end of the dormant period (from two to three months), when the hyacinth fully recovers after flowering. During this period, the plant is additionally fertilized so that it grows stronger. Top dressing is applied twice every three weeks. Be careful not to overfeed the flower. Fertilizers during the transplantation period of the plant must be selected with a nitrogen content - this has a positive effect on the general condition of the plant.

After the dormant period has passed, the bulbs can be dug up. But this should be done after the leaves turn yellow. This will make it easier for you to understand how deeply the plant has grown. The yellow shoots are cut off, the bulbs are taken out, dried and deposited until the autumn period, when they begin to be planted in the soil.

Plant the bulbs in a separate container with soil as the hyacinth may need shade. You can build a special frame that will protect the plant from the sun's rays.

Hyacinth propagation

Reproduction of hyacinths is of several types:

• Propagation by leaf cuttings;

Did you know?A large, dense bulb can produce color every year, but still be completely childless.

In order to apply this method, it is necessary to select only dense, large and healthy bulbs, approximately 7 cm in diameter. When the leaves of the plant turn yellow, they are dug up. It is necessary to rinse the bulbs from the ground, treat with a 2% solution of potassium permanganate and dry in a room with a shade that will be well ventilated. It should be dried for several weeks (1-2).

An experienced gardener should show you how to cut the bottom of a hyacinth. For this procedure, you need to disinfect the instruments in an alcohol solution (70%). Use a sharpened knife or a sharpened teaspoon.

First you need to completely remove the bottom and the kidney, which is located in the center. You should now have a funnel-shaped indentation. The incision of the bulb should be treated with activated charcoal or charcoal. The bulb is then placed in a tight-cut box that will separate the plant varieties. The box should be placed in a ventilated room, where the temperature reaches 25 ° C.

When the onion is ripe, the temperature needs to be increased to 35 ° C, and the total humidity to 95%. It should take about three months after the bulbs have reached a size of 10 mm. Now they can be planted in the ground (mid-October).

If the bulbs matured later, then they need to be placed in a box with earth and sent to the refrigerator (6 ° C) until spring. When August comes, the leaves of the hyacinth begin to turn yellow, and the bulbs are dug out again, the children sit down to a depth of 12 cm, and are covered with peat. Such grown hyacinth flowers, when properly planted and cared for, bloom in the third year.

Important! The planting must be covered with peat.

Propagation by leaf cuttings

This method is applied to a flower that already has buds. Two leaves are cut off, the cut is made at the base. The leaves are processed in a solution of heteroauxin (0.5 tablets per 1 liter of water). Then they need to be planted at an angle in a box of sand. Depth - 3 cm.

The box should be kept in a cool (cool) place in a plastic bag. Light is diffused. Humidity - 90%. Within a month and a half, you will be able to see the fruits of your labor in the form of the appearance of buds of bulbs, roots and leaves. Young shoots are ready for planting in the ground.

Did you know? In order to get more children, the sheets are divided into several equal parts. From one cutting, about 11 children are obtained.

If you want to use this method, then you need to divide the onion into 6 parts. Moreover, it should reach 6 cm in diameter. Flakes should be broken off from the bottom and placed in a plastic bag, before that, having thoroughly walked with a layer of coal.

Perlite is poured into the bag or river sand. The bulbs take 3 months to form. The bags must be kept tied at a temperature of 25 ° C, then lowered to 17 ° C. It is during this period that the bulbs begin to form. When using this breeding method, if desired, you can get 50 children at once. If the adult bulb has already begun to divide and form three or four babies, then you can transplant the hyacinth by separating the babies from the mother's bulb. This should be done in the summer, and it is better to plant at the end of the summer. In a few years, these bulbs will grow up and will delight the eye with their flowering.

Digging hyacinth bulbs, care after flowering

Another crucial moment is considered correct storage hyacinths after the plant has bloomed. If it is a late excavation and improper care, then the plant will bloom poorly afterwards.

The period of the onset of cold weather is the period when it is time to dig out the hyacinths. Different stages require different temperatures, sequence. The storage process will take 95 days.
Hyacinth care after it has been dug up should be done properly: the plant is dried, ventilated and stored in a dark room for seven days at a temperature of 20 ° C. Peeled, they are sorted into boxes. The boxes must be signed. Storage takes place in two stages:

1. Hyacinth bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25 ° C for at least two months;
2. The bulbs should be stored at 170 ° C before planting. It is also necessary to monitor the humidity level.

The temperature can also be raised to 30 ° C if you want to keep the first step as short as possible. The room must be well ventilated. Before planting for the winter, the bulbs must be kept cold for several days. Thus, she is more likely to get used to the cold.

Bulbs that have already bloomed in the open field should be planted in pots and placed in a cool place. These are only adult bulbs. Babies need to be home-grown outdoors for several years so that they can reach the size of an adult bulb and begin to bloom.

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