Gooseberries have been grown in our country for a long time. In Russia, already in the 11th century, monks bred cultural varieties of this berry in the monastery gardens. Thus, gooseberries were domesticated much earlier than the popular currants and raspberries. Now the fruits of this berry are valued for their rich composition of vitamins, medicinal properties and delicious gooseberry jam... Although the plant is unpretentious, it grows on the territory of Russia, Ukraine, you need to approach its planting with all responsibility. Planted in compliance with all the rules, the gooseberry is capable of producing a yield of up to 10 kg per year for 40 years. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting gooseberries in the fall.

Gooseberries are planted in both spring and fall. V spring landing should be done as early as possible, preferably in the first half of April... It is important that the plant has not yet moved away from the winter dormant state. If the buds begin to bloom, then the chances that the seedling will take root will be reduced. But even a shrub planted on time will have a worse survival rate in the spring than with an autumn planting. In what month to plant gooseberries, you ask? Experienced gardeners recommend planting gooseberries late August - September - early October, depending on the region - Moscow region, Ural, middle stripe Russia.

The best time for autumn planting is the last week of September and the first weeks of October.... However, you need to focus on the weather. The main thing is that the first frost occurs no earlier than two weeks later, and the young roots do not freeze. And it is better to choose a day that is not sunny and without wind, so that the seedling has outdoors the roots did not dry out.

At the right choice planting time in the fall, the plant takes root in almost 100% of cases. Other benefits of autumn planting include:

• Before the onset of cold weather, there is time to the roots of the seedling managed to get stronger and grow.
• Hardened plant in spring will begin to develop rapidly.
• Before winter starts the soil around the shrub will settle well and compact.
• A plant that has taken root in the fall, in the spring will begin the vegetation process with full force, which will provide a greater increase in young shoots by the next fall.

Planting gooseberries in the fall, although it gives great guarantees, it is very important not to be late with its dates.

The times given are average. You need to proceed from the climate of your region. For the southern regions, the dates may shift to October-November, and for the northern regions, the beginning of September is also suitable.

If you have decided on the correct date, a significant moment for a successful planting is the preparation of the seedling of the plant.

How to choose and prepare a seedling

When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. Sapling age... It must not exceed two years, adult plant will take root more slowly and adapt to new conditions longer.
2. Enough a large number of roots... Among them there should be three or more skeletal ones, the length of which exceeds 15 cm. And much more fibrous roots.
3. Shoots of the aerial part of the plant in length should reach 30-40 cm.

After purchasing a seedling, it is prepared for planting. This requires:

1. Remove leaves from a seedling.
2. Make a crop dry roots.
3. Dip the sapling into the clay mash prepared in advance. To prepare the solution, mix 1 kg of clay and chernozem, 2 packs of Kornevin, and fill with 3 liters of water.

Seat selection

It is equally important to choose the right place for future landing... Where to put this fruit bush? Do not plant gooseberries between trees, this will create a shortage of it. sunlight ... Neighborhood with currants is also detrimental to the plant, because they are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. It is good if, before planting gooseberries, legumes, beets or potatoes were grown on this land.

The soil should be loose, the shrub will not grow well in too heavy and waterlogged soil. If on garden plot groundwater is high, then it is better to plant the gooseberry at the highest place, or create an artificial elevation for it from the ground.

Matters and correct placement bushes when planting several plants at once. The gooseberry grows quite well. An eight-year-old bush reaches 2.5 meters in diameter.

There are several schemes for planting gooseberries.:

1. Sparse fit... In this case, the bushes are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, and a space of 2 meters wide is left between the rows. After 4-5 years, the plants will grow so much that they will be one continuous strip.
2. Landing between the rows of young fruit trees ... In such conditions, the gooseberry will grow well until the crowns above it begin to close. After that, the bushes should be transplanted to a more illuminated place.
3. Combined scheme... Plants are planted in rows at a distance of 75 cm from each other, keeping a distance between the rows of 1 m.When, after a few years, the bushes begin to close, they need to be thinned out after one, replanting some of the plants to a new place. After another couple of years, the thinning must be repeated. This scheme contributes to obtaining a larger yield of berries and significantly saves space on the site.

For expedited receipt bountiful harvest, gardeners sometimes plant two seedlings at once in one large hole, leaving a distance of 20 cm between them... In the early years, the harvest will indeed be good, however, the bushes will soon begin to thicken and age strongly. Moreover, their roots will be so intertwined that it will be almost impossible to plant the plants.

When you prepare the seedlings and opt for the gooseberry a good place, you can start planting the plant directly.

Gooseberry planting technology in spring and autumn

Planting a plant includes the following steps:

1. On the selected site you need dig up the ground no more than a shovel bayonet... This breaks up all lumps and removes weeds.
2. Dig a hole, its size should slightly exceed root system seedlings, on average it is 50x50x50 cm... This should be done a little in advance - a couple of weeks before planting. The top fertile soil must be folded on one side, and the remaining one on the other.
3. Fertilize the hole... 2/3 it must be filled with fertile soil mixed with compost (1.5 buckets), superphosphate (300 g), peat (1.5 buckets), ash (3 glasses), ground limestone (1 glass). Add more on top fertile land and pour all this with 0.5 liters of water.
4. Before boarding the hole needs to be left to stand in this form for a couple of weeks to allow the soil to settle sufficiently.
5. During direct boarding, place the seedling in the hole, tilting it slightly... In this case, the root collar should be located in the very center of the fossa, and the roots should be straightened out to the sides. To avoid voids, the space between the roots must be covered with earth. Gooseberries are usually deepened 5 cm lower than in the previous place of growth of the seedling(it is easy to trace the marks on the bark). Thus, conditions will be created for the growth of additional roots and shoots from the buried buds of the plant.
6. The land around the seedling needs trample and water abundantly.
7. Add mulch to the hole from peat or leaves with a layer of 10 cm.

After planting in the fall, young plants do not require special care, they can not be touched until spring. Mulch and fallen snow will help the seedling over the winter. If you are afraid that there will be little snow in winter, then you can additionally insulate the gooseberry with covering materials.

After planting in spring, for survival and growth, prune the plant. In this case, cut the aerial part by 10 cm, and leave 2-3 buds on each shoot. For autumn planting, such pruning is not recommended. If you still decide to make it, then be sure to coat all the cuts with garden pitch.

How to properly transplant an adult bush

When choosing a planting scheme with further thinning of the rows, it is important to know the rules for transplanting gooseberries. Plants should also be repotted in the fall so that the plants can more easily take root in a new place. To safely remove the bush from the ground, dig in it on each side at a distance of 30 cm from the base... Thick roots can be chopped off without harming the plant. Then, with the help of a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil, together with an earthen clod, it is placed on polyethylene and moved to a new planting site. The very technology of planting an adult plant does not differ from planting seedlings.

A non-capricious plant like gooseberry does not require constant care for it. It's enough to take time for him once, having landed according to all the rules, and on long years the plant will provide you with a tasty and healthy harvest.

The need to transplant trees or shrubs on the site arises quite often. Moreover, each single plant requires compliance with specific agricultural practices.

The reasons for such actions may be the redevelopment of the site, the movement of the bush to a more suitable place for it, in order to plant the plants with dense planting. The article will consider the question of how gooseberries are transplanted to a new place in spring and autumn.

Gooseberries are transplanted, like other shrubs, in autumn or spring. Moreover, autumn is the preferred season. After fruiting, the bush prepares for winter, it begins a dormant period.

In this state, the gooseberry will better tolerate a change in habitat. The best month for transplanting is October, before the onset of frost. Sometimes circumstances develop in such a way that it was not possible to transplant the plant in the fall. For example, due to early autumn frosts or due to the lack of free time at the gardener.

In this case, you can transplant the bush in the spring. But there are nuances here. Gooseberry refers to the type of shrub that wakes up very early, literally with the onset of the first warm days. Therefore, it is important not to miss the moment.

If the buds have already begun to grow, then the roots of the bush also began to grow. In such conditions, the bush may not take root at all in a new place or it will hurt and stunted. The best spring month for transplanting is March. V northern regions it could be early April.

Selecting and preparing a landing site

In order for the gooseberry bush to take root well and bear fruit regularly, you need to choose the right place for it.

It must meet the following requirements:

1. Good sunshine.
2. There is no constant wind blowing. Plants feel good near any buildings that protect them from drafts.
3. The gooseberry loves moist soil, but does not tolerate close bedding. groundwater and stagnant water. The place on the site does not fit the bush, where rainwater poorly absorbed by the soil.
4. Gooseberry bushes grow well on fertile and light soils, react negatively to an acidic environment. If the soil is too acidic, it can be deoxidized with ash or lime. Clay soil is fertilized with sand, humus or peat.
5. Gooseberry precursors should not include raspberries or currants. These plants are susceptible to the same diseases, so the bush will be sore and stunted.

You should first clear the planting site of debris, weeds and other vegetation.

How to determine the acidity of the soil?

The easiest and fastest way to determine the acidity level is using litmus paper. If you don't have it, it will help folk way... It is necessary to pour a handful of cherry leaves in a jar with boiling water and wait for the infusion to cool. After that, a lump of earth is thrown into the jar from the place where the acidity needs to be determined.

Look at the color of the water:

1. Greenish tint - normal acidity.
2. Reddish - increased.
3. Bluish - lowered.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting

It is better to transplant gooseberry bushes during their dormant period. A significant difference in agricultural practices between autumn and spring planting no. However, when transplanting in the fall, the bush can give a crop the next year. Consider 2 ways to transplant bushes: single and mass.

Transplanting a single bush

Pit preparation

The first step is to prepare a hole in which the bush will be planted. Its depth should be about 50 cm, and its diameter should be twice the expected diameter of the roots. If there is frequent stagnation of water on the site, it will not be superfluous to equip drainage in the pit.

To do this, a mixture of crushed stone, broken brick and sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. A layer of agrofibre is laid on top of this mixture, onto which fertile soil is poured, mixing it with humus or compost. If drainage is not needed, fertile soil is poured directly to the bottom of the pit.

Advice: it is better not to put mineral fertilizers into the pit, as this can lead to burns of the roots. But ash can be brought in without fear.

Preparing and digging a bush

It is necessary to cut the bush in order to bring it into line with the aboveground and underground parts... Old, damaged, broken branches are cut, and all healthy shoots are shortened.

In this form, the bush will take root faster and better. If the bush is young, then its entire one-year growth is cut off to 8 buds. On adult bushes, the annual growth is cut in half.

The order of digging and carrying the bush:

1. Having retreated from the center of the bush 30-40 cm, they dig it around the perimeter. If there are roots in the path of the shovel, they can be chopped off.
2. Using a shovel, the bush, along with a lump of earth, is removed from the pit and transferred to the planting site.
3. If a clod of earth is significant in size, use burlap for carrying, plastic wrap or shield.
4. All damaged roots are removed, the tips of the roots left behind are refreshed.

Planting a bush in a new place

1. A bush with a lump of earth is placed in the prepared hole. It is recommended to deepen the root collar of the bush 5 cm below the edges of the pit.
2. The place remaining in the pit is covered with earth, lightly tamped and watered with two or three buckets of water.
3. After absorbing water, the soil under the bush is sprinkled with dry earth.

Planting several bushes

Transplanting each individual bush does not differ.

With regard to several bushes, the nuances will be as follows:

1. The landing area is immediately marked. If there are several rows, then the distance between them should be within 1.3-1.5 m. The distance between adjacent bushes is 1.5-2 m.
2. First dug out the right amount landing pits.
3. Organic fertilizers are applied to the pits.
4. The bushes intended for transplanting are dug out one by one and transferred to new pits, where they are planted using the above technology.

Transplanted bush care

Having transplanted the bush to a new place, it is necessary to provide it with proper care, since the plant is under severe stress.

Autumn transplant

The trunk circle must be mulched. Mulch prevents moisture evaporation from the soil surface, passes irrigation water well to the roots, does not allow the formation of an earth crust. As mulch are:

• rotted sawdust;
• needles;
• bark of trees;
• peat;
• hay;
• rotted manure;

It is advisable to make a layer of mulch about 10 cm thick.

Advice: experienced gardeners cover up trunk circle planted bush with pieces of roofing material. This significantly reduces the evaporation of moisture from under the bush, and also contributes to the accumulation of heat.

The bush is regularly watered until the onset of frost, thereby preparing it for winter, but mineral fertilizers are not applied. It is better to feed the bushes in the spring.

Transplant in spring

As in the fall, it is advisable to mulch the bush.

Watering is done regularly to prevent the root system from drying out. If precipitation does not fall, the bush is watered with two buckets of water every 2 weeks. You can combine watering with subcrust. The first feeding is done 2 weeks after the first leaves appear.

To start developing rapidly, the bush needs nitrogen. Suppliers of nitrogen can be rotted manure, infusion chicken droppings, fermented grass or hay. The organic fertilizer is diluted up to 10 times with water and the plants are watered. It is advisable not to use mineral fertilizers in the first year after transplantation. If you cannot do without this, then they are diluted with water and used in liquid form.

Weeds are regularly removed from the trunk circle. In summer, in the morning or evening hours, the bushes are watered using the sprinkler method.

Possible mistakes

We list the most serious mistakes that occur when transplanting gooseberry bushes:

1. Transplant without a lump of earth. A bush with bare roots takes root much worse, gets sick more often, and later begins to bear fruit.
2. Lack of fertile soil with some organic matter. The bush needs adequate nutrition, and ordinary soil contains too few essential elements.
3. Watering too cold water... For example, from a well or a well. The ideal temperature for irrigation water can be considered 18-25 degrees.

If all the work on transplanting the gooseberry to a new place is done correctly and on time, the bush will certainly delight you with its strength of growth and delicious fruits.

Gooseberry is an unpretentious berry bush. It happens that the bush grows so much that it begins to interfere with other crops. We have to find a new place for him and transplant. Of course, the younger the bush, the easier the operation, but in general, a gooseberry transplant is nothing complicated.

Reasons for transplanting gooseberry

Among possible reasons, for which there is a need for a gooseberry transplant, the following can be noted:

• a serious redevelopment of the site was required;
• the bushes are too overgrown and interfere with each other;
• gooseberries were originally planted in a hurry not on optimal place: he lacks the sun, he is flooded with melt water, etc .;
• it is inconvenient to harvest: a fence located too close interferes, branches spread along the paths, etc.

The sooner these reasons are discovered, the better: transplanting gooseberries at the age of 3-5 years is very simple, and later difficulties are possible. Firstly, it is physically difficult to transplant a massive bush, and secondly, it will be more difficult to take root in a new place.

Gooseberry transplant conditions and optimal timing

Like the vast majority of shrubs, gooseberries can be replanted in both spring and fall. In summer, this should not be done, although young bushes with big lump land can be moved at any time; with the correct operation and good care they are likely to take root. An autumn transplant is considered easier and more reliable, when the bush enters a period of relative dormancy and prepares for winter.

The best time for transplanting gooseberries is autumn.

The exact timing of transplanting depends on the region and the weather, but usually this time falls in October, after the leaves fall. This should be done 3-4 weeks before the onset of severe frosts, so that the roots in a new place begin to take root and resume growth even in relatively warm weather. However, it so happens that in the fall it was not possible to transplant the bush: unexpectedly early frosts came or the gardener simply had no time. In this case, the procedure can be postponed until the spring, but the planting site should be prepared in the fall.

Spring is not the best the best time for transplanting gooseberries, since it wakes up early from hibernation, when it is still difficult to work with the land. With the arrival of relative heat, its buds swell, open, and the growing season begins. A transplant with the beginning of sap flow will be very painful, and the death of a bush in a new place is also possible, therefore, in most regions, the spring operation should be carried out in March, and in cold climates - at the beginning of April.

Gooseberry transplant technology

You can transplant gooseberries with or without a clod of earth. Transplanting with a lump is more difficult, but the bush will take root faster and more reliably. It is especially important to preserve the roots with the soil if the situation is “on the verge” in terms of transplantation: the gooseberry has not yet passed into a state of dormancy in the fall, and in the spring its buds began to swell. Spring transplantation without a lump of earth can be carried out only as a last resort and exclusively for a young bush (no older than 2-3 years) with a powerful root system. After such an operation, caring for gooseberries in a new place should be especially careful.

Preparing the landing pit in a new location

The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• be well lit (partial shade is allowed for several hours a day);
• be protected from drafts: as a rule, they try to plant gooseberries near a fence or low buildings;
• there should be no close occurrence of groundwater; the plant needs moist soil, but it does not tolerate waterlogging;
• the soil should be light, fertile, with a neutral reaction of the environment; excess acidity is corrected with slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour, v clay soil add sand and peat.

Do not plant gooseberries in the place where raspberries or currants grew shortly before.

The procedure for preparing the site for landing:

Mineral fertilizers, as a rule, are not applied to the pit, but you can add 100 g of superphosphate by placing it away from future roots, that is, mix it with the ground and pour it over the drainage layer.

Preparing a gooseberry bush for transplanting

Procedure for preparing gooseberries:

Planting a bush in a new place

The transplant is carried out as follows:

If several gooseberry bushes are transplanted at once, a planting scheme is selected in advance. With a mass transfer, the distance between the centers of the planting pits should be 1.5–2.0 m; when planting in several rows, a free passage is provided between them.

Caring for a transplanted gooseberry bush

The gooseberry is quite unpretentious; with a properly performed transplant, the bush successfully takes root. To help him in this, it is important to water him intensively in the first year and be sure to mulch the soil around him, as well as weed the weeds. A 6–8 cm layer of mulch inhibits the growth of most weeds. When especially strong species appear (wheatgrass, dandelion, etc.), they must be removed by the root by hand, since they compete for nutrition and moisture in a weakened bush transplant.

In dry weather, the transplanted bush is watered until mid-summer 2 times a week, spending at least a bucket of water. In especially hot weather, sprinkling is also useful: wetting the crown with water. In the second half of summer, watering is carried out less frequently. Water temperature is not significant, but watering should be done in the morning or evening.

In the middle of summer, it is worth feeding the gooseberry with potash fertilizer. If the branches grow poorly, it is better to do this a little earlier by taking a complex mineral fertilizer. The transplanted gooseberry must be fertilized closer to winter, at the same time carrying out water-charging irrigation. After leaf fall, 4–5 buckets of water are introduced under the bush, diluting up to 100 g of superphosphate in it. After that, the soil around the bush is covered with fallen leaves of trees or sawdust in a layer of up to 10 cm. Additional insulation gooseberry does not require a crown for the winter.

For the winter, gooseberries are fertilized with superphosphate.

Features of transplanting gooseberries at different times of the year

There is no significant difference in the technology of spring and autumn gooseberry transplantation. A pit for an autumn transplant is prepared 2-3 weeks before it, and for a spring one - from autumn. Nuances may appear during subsequent care, and they depend on the current weather.

Autumn gooseberry transplant

At autumn transplant As a rule, frequent watering is not required until the onset of winter, since it rains most often in October-November and there is no heat. A thick layer of mulch (up to 10 cm), which is required after transplanting, successfully retains irrigation water, therefore repeated frequent watering is required only in case of dry weather. In normal weather, it may be sufficient to repeat the watering a week after transplanting.

Top dressing during the autumn transplant is not required, it is carried out already next year. For the first time, until spring, cover the soil under the bush with a piece of roofing material: it prevents the evaporation of water and warms the earth. But if it is a dry autumn, the roofing material must be periodically raised, the soil moisture checked and, if necessary, irrigated.

Video: transplanting gooseberries in the fall

Spring gooseberry transplant

At spring transplant soil mulching is also carried out, but not in such a thick layer, otherwise the deepening of the root collar will be excessive. Watering is carried out often, since the snow water in the soil runs out very quickly. After the leaves bloom, the bush is watered weekly, and after 2-3 weeks after that it can already be fed with nitrogen fertilizer (urea, mullein or chicken droppings).

In spring, gooseberries can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, such as urea.

Video: forced transplant of gooseberries in spring

A gooseberry transplant is a simple operation that may be required for various reasons. It is important not only to do it right, but also not to miss the deadline: it is best to do the transplant in the fall, and if you have to do it in the spring, then you need to finish the procedure as early as possible.

It often happens that when planting young gooseberry bushes, gardeners do not take into account how large a thin twig will grow. As a result, after a few years, the plantations are woven into impenetrable thickets. It becomes clear that there is a transplant ahead. We will tell in the article how the gooseberry is transplanted in the spring, what rules the gardeners need to follow.

When is it better to transplant gooseberries

For gooseberries, the best season is autumn. The shrub prepares for winter, all processes in the plant's body slow down, so the stress from a change of residence is less painful. Unfortunately, not everything depends on the gardener. Sometimes nature radically disrupts seasonal plans. For example, in the fall, the event was not crowned with success due to early frosts.

Willy - nilly, the transplant is postponed to the spring. This is not the best time for the gooseberry; it is one of the first to bloom in the garden. When the buds have already burst to disturb the shrub late, the root system starts to grow and becomes extremely vulnerable. So you have to keep watch so as not to miss the right moment... If there is no other way out, then you need to save the gooseberry in a "sleepy" state, until the sap flow has begun.

It is important to do everything as correctly as possible in order to minimize injury to the shrub, especially the roots.

Methods for transplanting gooseberry bushes

In horticulture, plants are planted and propagated in two ways:

1. with a lump;
2. in the form of seedlings.

A seedling is considered woody plant with an open root system, that is, one that was dug up and shaken off the soil from the roots. Such bushes cannot be stored for a long time and they are difficult to take root, because they are seriously disturbed. For a gooseberry, a transplant in this form is possible only in the fall, in the spring it simply does not have time to adapt. If you still have to do this in the spring, then it is better to choose a planting with a lump of soil.

Sequence of work during transplantation

Requirements for soil and fertilizing

When the bush is installed, sprinkle it with a vegetable mixture. The composition of the herbal mixture is shown in the table:

Advice#1. If the soil for planting is heavy, coarse-grained is added to it river sand... Loose soil compresses well and does not need a baking powder.

For berry bushes the acidity of the soil is important. If the pH is less than 6, the harvest will be modest, the berries are small and sour. When landing, this indicator is optimized to a neutral reaction. For the roots to take root, they need support. Phosphorus - potassium fertilizers will come to the rescue, which contribute to the regrowth of new hairy roots.

A gooseberry transplant is a tangible trauma for the plant. He was forcibly pulled out of his familiar environment and forced to master an unfamiliar place.

You can use other rooters - "Heteroauxin", "Kornevin", "Rizopon", "Agrecol". These drugs stimulate the internal strength of the plant for survival. The space between the lump and the pit wall is trampled down. The toe of the shoe is turned towards the bush.

After compaction of the soil, a near-trunk circle is formed. Its diameter is wider than the crown of a shrub. The height of the bulk roller is 10 - 15 cm. The final touch is watering. Water temperature - +15 0. One watering will require 30 liters (or 3 ten-liter buckets). Several approaches may be needed, but the landing must be shed carefully.

Terms of transplanting gooseberries in spring

It makes no sense to give specific dates for transplantation. It's a shame to be late, but you can't start work too early. Knowing all the subtleties earthworks, it becomes clear that the beginning of the event is impossible until the soil in the garden dries out enough to become suitable for digging. It depends on the weather conditions, after heavy snow or spring rains, the dates are postponed. If during this time the kidneys open on the gooseberry, it is better to refuse the transplant.

Sometimes a desperate situation forces the gardener to compromise the rules and transfer the shrubs at the wrong time for him. In this case, the success of the transplant depends not only on the strict implementation of all stages, but also on further care for the "traveler".

Watering the transplanted bush

Post-transplant care. Mulching

Gooseberry transplant is like surgery for a person. Of course, the lion's share of the result belongs to the correct transfer of the bush, but the rehabilitation period is also not unimportant. To preserve the results of hard work as much as possible, immediately after watering, the trunk circle is mulched. The covering material is:

• dry ground peat crumb;
• crushed rotted manure;
• sawdust (preferably deciduous trees, conifers acidify the soil);
• bark;
• chips.

Mulch protects shrubs from moisture evaporation and weeds... A layer of 10 - 15 cm allows water to pass through well, but reduces the penetration of light. Thanks to this, weeds hardly grow. This is important because some, such as wheatgrass, creeping grass, dandelions, are a serious competitor to weakened shrubs.

If some of them still manage to break through the mulch, they must be removed by the roots. The transplant rarely goes perfectly, often some branches break, it has not yet come off, but it will not take root anymore. They need to be cut off so as not to be taken away nutrients whole shoots.

Mulching the bush in late spring

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

The gooseberry takes about 21 to 30 days to take root. You can be sure of this when the first leaves appear from the buds. If they continue to turn green, then the transplant was successful and after another two weeks the first feeding can be done. Now, nitrogen fertilizers are needed to help the growth of stems and leaves.

Tip # 2.Take your time to apply nitrogen fertilizer immediately after the transplant. It is used when the plant is rooted. There is no point in stimulating the growth of green mass until the gooseberry has taken root.

In the spring, the "program" of the plant is aimed at the formation of young shoots and leaves. During this period, enhanced nutrition is needed for all plants, especially those transplanted. Nitrogen is required the most. It promotes the growth of young cells. Nitrogen salts dissolve well and are quickly washed out of the soil, and therefore they are used more than other fertilizers.

Top dressing with organic fertilizers

From organic fertilizers nitrogen is rich in fresh poultry manure, but use it in pure form it is impossible, the plant will get burned or die altogether. The people say: "It will burn!" To prevent this from happening, the droppings should be dissolved in water and kept for a week. The infusion is used for watering 1 ten-liter bucket in one hole. Remove the mulch before fertilizing.

It is better to feed the transplanted gooseberry with liquid products, regardless of whether they are mineral or organic. Before applying top dressing, the bush is watered. Fertilizer is evenly applied along the perimeter of the trunk circle, it is here that the young overgrown roots are located.

Complex specialized mineral fertilizer "Berry bushes"

Effective microorganisms are a good ally of organic fertilizers, with their participation the processes of soil enrichment occur much faster. For example, the formation of humus from plant residues occurs in nature for 2 - 3 years. In the presence of "Emochek", the process takes 2 - 3 months.

The peculiarity of the soil microflora is such that it is activated at a positive temperature of at least + 12 0, so you should not use them immediately after transplanting, if it took place in early April. Microflora is never applied if mineral fertilizer has been used. Chemicals kill live crops and mineralize the soil. You will have to choose between synthesized fertilizers and organic substances.

Summer care of shrubs in the garden

The main task in the summer is watering. If there is no rain, then the transplanted gooseberry is watered twice a week until the end of June. In the middle of summer, the interval can be increased to two weeks. In hot weather, it is necessary to irrigate not only the soil, but also the crown of the bush. This procedure is called sprinkling. The plant "breathes" the entire surface of its leaves and stems.

Drought narrows the tissues, and the air does not penetrate well into the cells. Water cools the crown and relaxes the cell membrane. Watering or sprinkling gooseberries can only be done in the morning or in the evening. In the scorching sun, drops of water in flight turn into "boiling water" and burn the leaves.

The end of June is the time for summer feeding. It is often missed, giving preference to spring and autumn. This is correct if the plant is doing well. A transplanted gooseberry can be supported by a comprehensive mineral fertilizer for berry bushes, in which potassium predominates. It helps the leaves to cope better with drought. Potassium salts protect the cell wall, preserving the water supply. This allows the plant to evaporate less moisture.

Fertilizers can only be applied in the morning or in the evening after watering.

Preparing for fall and winter

The final water-charging irrigation is carried out when the average daily temperature is +8 0. One bush will need 50 liters of water. At first glance, too much, but it is worth remembering that the next irrigation will be the melted snow. And nobody canceled the water cycle in nature in winter. Dry soil quickly freezes, which means that the plant may suffer.

It is important to prepare the root system for winter. Phosphate fertilizers will help to strengthen it. The rates of application of phosphorus fertilizers are shown in the table:

Fertilizer name	Application rates	Note
Superphosphate	100 g for 10 l of water	0.5 l in 1 barrel circle
Double superphosphate	35 - 50 g
Ammophos	35 - 50 g	Spread the granules evenly in the trunk circle and mix with the soil
Bone flour	200 g	Sprinkle the powder on 1 m 2

After watering and fertilizing, the trunk circle is protected with a covering material:

• dry lawn grass;
• mown hay, preferably without seeds;
• sawdust;
• leaves of healthy plants.

The gooseberry crown hibernates well and does not require shelter. If you follow simple recommendations, the transplanted gooseberry will successfully survive the cold and will delight in the spring with healthy berries.

Serious mistakes when transplanting gooseberries in spring

Mistake # 1. Sometimes an adult gooseberry is transplanted like a seedling.

Shrubs with open roots take root much worse. An earthen ball greatly increases the chances of survival.

Mistake # 2. Rooters are often neglected by gardeners.

Experts have developed these drugs to help the plant with planting and transplanting. Even in a perfect coma, the roots are damaged in order for the young to grow back, they need the support that the rooters provide.

Mistake number 3. Cold water can be one of the reasons for the death of gooseberries.

You can often hear bewilderment about feeling unwell transplanted gooseberry. We did everything right, looked after carefully, watered generously, and the bush disappeared. Probably the reason lies in the temperature of the water. For watering gooseberries, you need + 18 0 - + 25 0. If the source is a deep artesian well, the water from it is “ice” for the bush. Especially when the soil heats up like a frying pan during the day. Such temperature drops for gooseberries, and for other plants, are fatal.

Influences modern fashion make us think about how to change our site and create stylish landscape compositions... Majority design ideas requires free space so that trees and shrubs do not interfere with evaluating the author's idea. For the sake of beauty, you have to make sacrifices and replant plants that are out of place.

It is quite possible to move even a large fruiting bush if you approach this task correctly. Moreover, sometimes transplanting is beneficial to the plant, as it leads to its rejuvenation.

Let's try to transplant a gooseberry bush. To do this, first we will make a strong cut.

Like currants, the gooseberry bush consists of branches of various ages. According to the structure of the bush, gooseberries can be divided into two types. Some varieties have a bush-like shape with strongly curved, arched branches, others have a more compressed shape, in which perennial branches in the center of the bush occupy a vertical and oblique position, and the lateral ones are slightly curved. In the varieties of the first type, the fruits live in the bush for 3-4 years, and bear fruit for 2-3 years, in the second, respectively, 5-6 and 3-4 years. In the second type, the fruits are less thickened and better illuminated than in the varieties of the first type.

When pruning, all branches that are older than the specified age must be mercilessly removed. It is easy to distinguish them from young shoots: the old ones have darker and more rough bark.

Cut out all low-lying branches, as well as thin and diseased ones. We make a cut at the level of the soil, without leaving any stumps. If it is difficult, we cut the branches in two steps.

We count how many shoots we have left: if there are more than ten, then we need to reduce them to six or seven. We shorten these young shoots greatly - a length of 40-50 cm is enough. Sometimes it is recommended to cut branches even lower, but practice shows that even with such a length, the gooseberry takes root well.

Now we begin to dig out the bush. We dig it from all sides as deep as possible. The distance from the center of the bush is at least 40 cm. We take the bush out of the ground and put it on a film or cloth. We dig a hole in a new place. In size, it should be larger than an earthen lump, both in depth and in diameter. It is desirable that there are gaps of at least 10 cm around the circumference. At the bottom of the pit we fill in a fertile mixture consisting of humus and garden soil. Fertilizers should not be added so as not to burn the roots.

We transfer the bush to the planting site on the fabric. We put it in the hole and fill the gaps along its perimeter with the same fertile mixture. Lightly compact the soil and water it abundantly (2-4 buckets of water, depending on the size of the bush). We cover it with dry earth on top. The base of the bush should be 5-7 cm deep. Before the onset of cold weather, we continue to water the bush.

Gooseberries are planted in the fall, since even a slight delay in transplanting in the spring will negatively affect its development. Gooseberries start growing very early, so it is important that the roots get all the moisture from the melting snow.

In the spring, do not forget about the transplanted bush. Even if the soil is damp, water it, as damaged roots still do not get enough water. The first feeding can be given when the leaves grow a little.

The branches left over from cutting gooseberries are very useful for protecting plants from rodents. Place them in trenches when planting tulips and use them to tie around fruit trees.

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