Gooseberries have been grown in our country for a long time. In Russia, already in the 11th century, monks bred cultural varieties of this berry in the monastery gardens. Thus, gooseberries were domesticated much earlier than the popular currants and raspberries. Now the fruits of this berry are valued for their rich composition of vitamins, medicinal properties and delicious gooseberry jam... Although the plant is unpretentious, it grows on the territory of Russia, Ukraine, you need to approach its planting with all responsibility. Planted in compliance with all the rules, the gooseberry is capable of producing a yield of up to 10 kg per year for 40 years. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting gooseberries in the fall.

Gooseberries are planted in both spring and fall. V spring landing should be done as early as possible, preferably in the first half of April... It is important that the plant has not yet moved away from the winter dormant state. If the buds begin to bloom, then the chances that the seedling will take root will be reduced. But even a shrub planted on time will have a worse survival rate in the spring than with an autumn planting. In what month to plant gooseberries, you ask? Experienced gardeners recommend planting gooseberries at the end of August - September - beginning of October, depending on the region - the Moscow region, the Urals, the middle zone of Russia.

The best time for autumn planting, the last week of September and the first weeks of October appear... However, you need to focus on the weather. The main thing is that the first frost occurs no earlier than two weeks later, and the young roots do not freeze. And it is better to choose a day that is not sunny and without wind, so that the seedling has outdoors the roots did not dry out.

At the right choice planting time in the fall, the plant takes root in almost 100% of cases. Other benefits of autumn planting include:

• Before the onset of cold weather, there is time to the roots of the seedling managed to get stronger and grow.
• Hardened plant in spring will begin to develop rapidly.
• Before winter starts the soil around the shrub will settle well and compact.
• A plant that has taken root in the fall, in the spring will begin the vegetation process with full force, which will provide a greater increase in young shoots by the next fall.

Planting gooseberries in the fall, although it gives great guarantees, it is very important not to be late with its dates.

The times given are average. You need to proceed from the climate of your region. For the southern regions, the dates may shift to October-November, and for the northern regions, the beginning of September is also suitable.

If you have decided on the correct date, a significant moment for a successful planting is the preparation of the seedling of the plant.

How to choose and prepare a seedling

When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the following indicators:

1. Sapling age... It must not exceed two years, adult plant will take root more slowly and adapt to new conditions longer.
2. Enough a large number of roots... Among them there should be three or more skeletal ones, the length of which exceeds 15 cm. And much more fibrous roots.
3. Shoots of the aerial part of the plant in length should reach 30-40 cm.

After purchasing a seedling, it is prepared for planting. This requires:

1. Remove leaves from a seedling.
2. Make a crop dry roots.
3. Dip the sapling into the clay mash prepared in advance. To prepare the solution, mix 1 kg of clay and chernozem, 2 packs of Kornevin, and fill with 3 liters of water.

Seat selection

It is equally important to choose the right place for future landing... Where to put this fruit bush? Do not plant gooseberries between trees, this will create a shortage of it. sunlight ... Neighborhood with currants is also detrimental to the plant, because they are susceptible to the same diseases and pests. It is good if, before planting gooseberries, legumes, beets or potatoes were grown on this land.

The soil should be loose, the shrub will not grow well in too heavy and waterlogged soil. If on garden plot lie high groundwater, then it is better to plant the gooseberry on the highest place, or create an artificial elevation for it from the ground.

Matters and correct placement bushes when planting several plants at once. The gooseberry grows quite well. An eight-year-old bush reaches 2.5 meters in diameter.

There are several schemes for planting gooseberries.:

1. Sparse fit... In this case, the bushes are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, and a space of 2 meters wide is left between the rows. After 4-5 years, the plants will grow so much that they will be one continuous strip.
2. Planting between rows of young fruit trees... In such conditions, the gooseberry will grow well until the crowns above it begin to close. After that, the bushes should be transplanted to a more illuminated place.
3. Combined scheme... Plants are planted in rows at a distance of 75 cm from each other, keeping a distance between the rows of 1 m.When, after a few years, the bushes begin to close, they need to be thinned out after one, replanting some of the plants to a new place. After another couple of years, the thinning must be repeated. This scheme contributes to obtaining a larger yield of berries and significantly saves space on the site.

For expedited receipt bountiful harvest, gardeners sometimes plant two seedlings at once in one large hole, leaving a distance of 20 cm between them... In the early years, the harvest will indeed be good, however, the bushes will soon begin to thicken and age strongly. Moreover, their roots will be so intertwined that it will be almost impossible to plant the plants.

When you prepare the seedlings and opt for the gooseberry a good place, you can start planting the plant directly.

Gooseberry planting technology in spring and autumn

Planting a plant includes the following steps:

1. On the selected site you need dig up the ground no more than a shovel bayonet... This breaks up all lumps and removes weeds.
2. Dig a hole, its size should slightly exceed the root system of the seedling, on average it is 50x50x50 cm... This should be done a little in advance - a couple of weeks before planting. The top fertile soil must be folded on one side, and the remaining one on the other.
3. Fertilize the hole... 2/3 it must be filled with fertile soil mixed with compost (1.5 buckets), superphosphate (300 g), peat (1.5 buckets), ash (3 glasses), ground limestone (1 glass). Add more on top fertile land and pour all this with 0.5 liters of water.
4. Before boarding the hole needs to be left to stand in this form for a couple of weeks to allow the soil to settle sufficiently.
5. During direct boarding, place the seedling in the hole, tilting it slightly... In this case, the root collar should be located in the very center of the fossa, and the roots should be straightened out to the sides. To avoid voids, the space between the roots must be covered with earth. Gooseberries are usually deepened 5 cm lower than in the previous place of growth of the seedling(it is easy to trace the marks on the bark). Thus, conditions will be created for the growth of additional roots and shoots from the buried buds of the plant.
6. The land around the seedling needs trample and water abundantly.
7. Add mulch to the hole from peat or leaves with a layer of 10 cm.

After planting in the fall, young plants do not require special care, they can not be touched until spring. Mulch and fallen snow will help the seedling over the winter. If you are afraid that there will be little snow in winter, then you can additionally insulate the gooseberry with covering materials.

After planting in spring, for survival and growth, prune the plant. In this case, cut the aerial part by 10 cm, and leave 2-3 buds on each shoot. For autumn planting, such pruning is not recommended. If you still decide to make it, then be sure to coat all the cuts with garden pitch.

How to properly transplant an adult bush

When choosing a planting scheme with further thinning of the rows, it is important to know the rules for transplanting gooseberries. Plants should also be repotted in the fall so that the plants can more easily take root in a new place. To safely remove the bush from the ground, dig in it on each side at a distance of 30 cm from the base... Thick roots can be chopped off without harming the plant. Then, with the help of a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil, together with an earthen clod, it is placed on polyethylene and moved to a new planting site. The very technology of planting an adult plant does not differ from planting seedlings.

A non-capricious plant like gooseberry does not require constant care for it. It's enough to take time for him once, having landed according to all the rules, and on long years the plant will provide you with a tasty and healthy harvest.

Gooseberry bushes over the years intertwine with each other, in order to put this shrub in order, it must be transplanted. Such measures are also carried out in cases where there are problems with productivity, when the place turned out to be inappropriate, and the plant becomes weaker every year. Sometimes the need for a transplant is caused by the desire to make space for other purposes.

When to plant and how to choose a landing site?

When can you transplant gooseberries? The most suitable time for these works is autumn. Positive points in favor of choosing this time of year are as follows:

Places that are well lit by the sun and not blown by the wind are most suitable for gooseberries.

Wet and clayey soil is not at all suitable for him, such a soil will contribute to the development of fungal diseases. It is not worth waiting for a good harvest from a shrub planted in such a place.

When choosing a place for gooseberries, you should pay attention to the following features:

When planning to plant bushes near a fence or next to young trees, it is necessary to take into account their growth in the future.

Transplantation methods and rules, seedlings preparation

Spring transplanting should be done in exceptional cases. For example, if a gooseberry transplanted in autumn fell under frost due to the early arrival of winter.

The difficulty of transplanting a shrub in the spring is that due to the early appearance of buds, you have to constantly be near it. If you skip this moment, then the gooseberry transplant will be postponed until the next season.

Due to damage to the roots, and this cannot be avoided during transplantation, a blossoming shrub in a new place may not take root.

In horticulture, there are two ways to plant and propagate a plant: together with an earthen clod and in the form of seedlings. A seedling is woody plant, the roots of which are cleared of the earth. They are not subject to long-term storage, and they are more difficult to take root, since their root system suffered greatly.

Both options are suitable for an autumn transplant of a shrub, but not an option for a spring planting with seedlings. Their root system will not have time to take root before the juice begins to move.

Young saplings, which are only 1 or 2 years old, are most suitable for breeding gooseberries; they take root much better than older saplings. The main roots, covered with yellowish bark, should be at least three, and they should be about 15 cm long.

The fibrous roots should also be developed, the upper part should consist of two stems, reaching a height of 0.4 m. There should be no leaves on the prepared seedling. If there are unhealthy roots, they must be removed. After the preparatory activities, it remains to stimulate the root system.

To do this, seedlings (15-20 pieces) must be placed in a chatter box prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Chernozem - 1 kg.
2. Clay - 1 kg.
3. Kornevin - 1 or 2 sachets.
4. Aktara - 6 g.

Combine all components and add 3 liters of water.

Compliance with the transplant rules will contribute to better rooting of the bushes, namely:

At the new site, the planting depth should be 5 cm deeper than the previous site. While the temperature is above zero, gooseberries need to be watered all the time.

When watering, mulch must be removed; after the event, it must be returned to its place. V winter time the landing site must be insulated with sawdust, this will be enough.

Gooseberry propagation and care

In order to propagate the bushes of a plant, you can apply the most common method: the method horizontal layering... In early spring, without waiting for the buds to bloom, the peri-stem area must be shaped like a saucer.

Healthy young branches should be bent to this area and fastened to the ground with wooden hooks. New shoots will grow from the side buds located on these branches. They, reaching 10 - 15 cm, should be covered with earth. With the arrival of autumn, they should be dug up and those that have developed well can be planted in a permanent place.

Another method of propagation of the shrub is with cuttings. In mid-September, you need to cut off a certain amount of lignified shoots. The upper soft part must be cut off, then you need to make two cuts: one - above the kidney, and the second - from below, 25-35 cm from it.

Then, in the prepared strip, deepened by 20 cm, you need to install these shoots with an interval of 15 cm, two buds should remain above the ground level. After that, the trench should be covered with earth and compacted. A year later, they need to be planted in a new place.

It is imperative to care for the gooseberry, as well as for other berry bushes, otherwise the shrub will stop yielding. In the fall, measures should be taken to protect the plant from diseases and pests.

The harvest next year depends on how the gooseberry is processed. To protect the bushes from fungal diseases, you need to use a product prepared by diluting 50 g of copper chloroxy in 10 liters of water, or Bordeaux liquid. A composition made from 20 g of Karbofos and 10 liters of water will help protect against aphids, sawflies and moths.

Before spraying, you need to tidy up the shrub and the area around it. The treatment of areas near the trunks must begin with the removal of weeds. It is advisable to remove them together with the root, otherwise their presence will be permanent. Next, you need to loosen the earth and mulch.

Simultaneously with the processing of the periosteal circles, it is necessary to feed the plant, this will require Potassium and Phosphorus, it is enough to take 20 g and 30 g per bush, respectively. It will not be superfluous to make a nutritious mound, no more than 10 cm, under a plant of humus or peat paired with wood ash... It is advisable to have time to feed the shrub before the onset of cold weather.

If the autumn is rainy, you do not need to water the gooseberries; if there is no rain, you must water the gooseberries. At the same time, the rate for one bush is 30 liters.

In order for the shrub to bring a good harvest, it is necessary to prune the branches of the gooseberry. In the first and second year after the plant has been planted, it is necessary to cut off shoots that are damaged and located close to the ground.

There are varieties of gooseberries in which many shoots appear near the roots. These bushes need to be thinned out for 3-4 years, it is enough to leave 2 or 3 healthy, young shoots. When the bush is 5 or 6 years old, the number of branches should be 15 - 18 pieces. Further, every year 1-2 old and weak branches are subject to pruning. Pruning the plant can be done in the fall when the leaves are shed. For work, a sharp pruner should be used, then the cuts will be smooth and even.

In addition to the care, which is carried out in the autumn, it is important to pay attention to other activities.

During the winter, the earth becomes dense, so with the arrival of spring it will be necessary to loosen it. Since the gooseberry loves loose soil, it is advisable to loosen the soil 4 - 5 times throughout the season. Throughout the season, after it has been watered or it has rained, the soil must be mulched to retain moisture and prevent weeds.

It is useful to know how to transplant gooseberries in the fall not only for those who need to update the site, but also for those who are interested in how to plant gooseberries and when to transplant gooseberries in order to increase the area planted with this plant. When replanting and planting the bushes of this culture for the first time in the fall, you should not worry that they will take root badly.

Our country is huge, and what is normal for Stavropol or Of the Far East may not be suitable for central regions Russia.

Olga Burtseva from Kharkov in the comments asks if it is possible to transplant an adult gooseberry bush? Unfortunately, this problem is relevant for many gardeners, especially beginners who seek to plant everything on their site at once.

Gooseberry is a forgotten medicine. It helps well in diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, perfectly enhances immunity, improves blood composition, and, most importantly, effectively prevents the development of atherosclerosis. And just a handful of fresh berries a day is enough! Many are convinced that the quantity nutrients black currants are ahead of gooseberries, in fact, the opposite is true.

But they do not have a very good idea of ​​how the plantings will look like in 5-6 years, when the plants enter the adult life cycle. However, the problem can be solved. Technologies are now available to transplant mature trees, not to mention shrubs. True, replanting a tree is not easy; you need a special technique. But the bush is quite capable of transferring to another place for the summer residents themselves. Several years ago my husband and I underwent this procedure, and we are quite happy with the result. However, everything is in order.

A place for a gooseberry bush under the fence

Our gooseberries grew along the chain-link fence on the north side of the site. Behind the fence - a meadow and fields, m this garden was blown through very much. At the family council! it was decided to replace the mesh with a profiled sheet in order to protect the plantings from piercing winds, and at the same time move the fence a little so that later, removing the chain-link, not to spoil the new fence.

We put up the fence, then we removed the grid, but it turned out that the bushes are now growing at some distance from the fence. Moreover, it was not possible to use the liberated territory, and I did not want to breed weeds. The husband suggested that the bushes be moved closer to the fence by layering, and those that are already bearing fruit should be cut down over time. Not best idea: it would take a year to root the layers, form new bush and wait for it to gain strength. It would have taken all five years, but I wanted to get the result earlier. Therefore, I insisted on moving existing and well-established plants to a new place. In total, seven bushes grew along the fence. different varieties... It was scary to endure everything right away (what if they won’t take root?), And it was decided to divide this process into two stages.

No sooner said than done. The bushes were well shed with water a day or two before transplanting in order to preserve as much soil as possible on the roots. Then, just before the transplant, they tied it tighter with twine. (It doesn't matter if several branches break at the same time: you still have to remove part of the crown, because the chopped off roots will not be able to feed all the branches.)

At the new site, planting holes were dug about 1 m in diameter and about 80 cm deep. The bushes were dug along the periphery of the crown to a depth of 80 cm and from both sides they began to lift the bush with shovels, bypassing it in a circular manner and chopping off the roots that went beyond the excavation.

Why did they dig so wide? The fact is that in plants, the root system is, as a rule,

displaying the aboveground part. Consequently, the most active suction roots are located precisely on the periphery of the crown. Chopping them off means leaving the plant to starve to death. Of course, someone would argue that the suction roots are very thin, almost microscopic. Yes, but they are attached to something! And the more roots we leave, the faster the bush will recover. For a shrub, the loss of old anchor roots is not so destructive as the loss of a working root system.

As if nothing had happened

After we carefully lifted the transplanted bush with shovels, we must just as carefully transfer it to the film or burlap, not allowing the earth to shatter. If the transplant is carried out within its own area, the film will be enough. On the film, transfer the bush to the planting pit and carefully place it in a new place, without disturbing the location of the branches relative to the cardinal points.

Having leveled the bush, we sprinkled it with humus (about one and a half buckets per bush), filled up the earth, carefully tamped the surface around the bush with our feet and made a large hole, sprinkling the earth with a roller along the edges of the planting hole. Then they poured water abundantly. They shed it, not watered it - so that the earth settled well. The transplant was carried out in early October (in our zone, this is the optimal time for planting gardens), but not in the spring.

I want to draw your attention: the root of the gooseberry is bare, the earth disappears from it instantly, so it is extremely important to shed the transplanted plants well in advance for a day or two.

If you are going to carry the bush over a long distance, it is more convenient to transfer it to burlap. Moreover, the bag should not be synthetic, but natural. It is necessary to cut it, transfer a bush to it and pull the roots tightly with wire or twine. It is necessary to plant such bushes without removing the burlap - it will rot itself in a year or two. And the roots will be intact and will easily pass through the fabric.

In the spring, we cut off the transplanted bushes more than usual, cut out all the stems older than three years. Necessarily all next year water the plants abundantly every 10-14 days.

In the first year, the bushes were sore, even the leaves did not fully unfold. But the next year they gave us an abundance of berries, as if there was no transplant! They are still in good health, delighting with an excellent harvest.

The return of the gooseberry

In my childhood, my grandmother had 5 gooseberry bushes.

She made amazing "royal" jam! An hour before picking berries, grandmother doused the bushes cold water... The thorns became soft. She fixed the branches with clothespins - and so she reaped the harvest. When I inherited the garden, I uprooted these bushes - they were old and sick. And today I tried the gooseberry and realized - I want to return it to the garden. I especially liked the varieties Neslukhovsky and Kurshu Dzintars.

Senior Researcher of the Department berry crops Tatyana Miroslavovna, RUE "Institute of Fruit Growing", explained to me why not yet in every garden you will find gooseberries:

At the beginning of the last century, gooseberries were struck by a terrible epidemic. sphere libraries... This disease is also called American powdery mildew, because they brought it to us with American varieties. In spring, the leaves and tops of the shoots, and then the berries, begin to become covered with a white bloom, which later thickens, turns brown and becomes like a dense felt. Plants of old varieties of European selection turned out to be unstable to this disease. Fungicide treatments of that time were of little help, so people began to get rid of gooseberry bushes in their gardens.

Breeders are trying to revive the culture by crossing European sweet and large-fruited varieties with American berries, which do not differ in the special taste and size of berries, but are winter-hardy, drought-resistant, slightly thorny, and most importantly, resistant to powdery mildew. However, it has not yet been possible to create a variety that could boast of both high resistance to spheroteca and the same large and sweet berries as the old varieties.

The best time to plant gooseberries is late September - early October. The place should be lit, without air stagnation. And from the very beginning, it is important to monitor the cleanliness of the trunk circle.

When planting, deepen the root collar by 5-6 cm.

After the seedling, be sure to cut it off, leaving 3 buds from the ground on each shoot. Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. Cut out all the weak shoots each spring, leaving 3-4 of the strongest ones. By the age of 6-7 years, the bush should have 15-18 branches of different ages. The main harvest is concentrated on last year's gain. Branches with this type of fruiting age quickly. Yes, and on a thickened plant, they rather develop fungal diseases... Therefore, from the age of 5-6 years old, remove the old branches, leaving to replace them with the same number of newly developed basal shoots.

Influences modern fashion make us think about how to change our site and create stylish landscape compositions... Majority design ideas requires free space so that trees and shrubs do not interfere with evaluating the author's idea. For the sake of beauty, you have to make sacrifices and replant plants that are out of place.

It is quite possible to move even a large fruiting bush if you approach this task correctly. Moreover, sometimes transplanting is beneficial to the plant, as it leads to its rejuvenation.

Let's try to transplant a gooseberry bush. To do this, first we will make a strong cut.

Like currants, the gooseberry bush consists of branches of various ages. According to the structure of the bush, gooseberries can be divided into two types. Some varieties have a bush-like shape with strongly curved, arched branches, others have a more compressed shape, in which perennial branches in the center of the bush occupy a vertical and oblique position, and the lateral ones are slightly curved. In the varieties of the first type, the fruits live in the bush for 3-4 years, and bear fruit for 2-3 years, in the second, respectively, 5-6 and 3-4 years. In the second type, the fruits are less thickened and better illuminated than in the varieties of the first type.

When pruning, all branches that are older than the specified age must be mercilessly removed. It is easy to distinguish them from young shoots: the old ones have darker and more rough bark.

Cut out all low-lying branches, as well as thin and diseased ones. We make the cut at the level of the soil, without leaving hemp. If it is difficult, we cut the branches in two steps.

We count how many shoots we have left: if there are more than ten, then we need to reduce them to six or seven. We shorten these young shoots greatly - a length of 40-50 cm is enough. Sometimes it is recommended to cut the branches even lower, but practice shows that even with such a length, the gooseberry takes root well.

Now we begin to dig out the bush. We dig it from all sides as deep as possible. The distance from the center of the bush is at least 40 cm. We take the bush out of the ground and put it on a film or cloth. We dig a hole in a new place. In size, it should be larger than an earthen lump, both in depth and in diameter. It is desirable that there are gaps of at least 10 cm around the circumference. At the bottom of the pit we fill in a fertile mixture consisting of humus and garden soil. Fertilizers should not be added so as not to burn the roots.

We transfer the bush to the planting site on the fabric. We put it in the hole and fill the gaps along its perimeter with the same fertile mixture. Lightly compact the soil and water it abundantly (2-4 buckets of water, depending on the size of the bush). We cover it with dry earth on top. The base of the bush should be 5-7 cm deep. Before the onset of cold weather, we continue to water the bush.

Gooseberries are planted in the fall, since even a slight delay in transplanting in the spring will negatively affect its development. Gooseberries start growing very early, so it is important that the roots get all the moisture from the melting snow.

In the spring, do not forget about the transplanted bush. Even if the soil is damp, water it, as damaged roots still do not get enough water. The first feeding can be given when the leaves grow a little.

The branches left over from cutting gooseberries are very useful for protecting plants from rodents. Place them in trenches when planting tulips and use them to tie around fruit trees.

Number of impressions: 4759

Summer residents who have already bought a vending seedling (or are just going to) are puzzled about how to plant a gooseberry correctly so that it takes root and pleases in the near future good harvest... Such doubts are very reasonable, because in order for the plant to take root, you need to observe whole line rules. What do you need to know to spring planting"Northern grapes" (gooseberry) in open ground was successful? Let's consider the main nuances further.

One of the most important questions gardeners ask is when to plant gooseberries outdoors in spring.

We answer: it is optimal to plant gooseberry seedlings in early spring, immediately after the snow melts, until the ground is completely dry (in a humid environment, the plants take root well without additional watering), in other words, you need to be in time before budding on the shoots of the bush, i.e. before the gooseberry starts growing (= the plant must still be sleeping).

If you have a seedling with a closed root system (ZKS), i.e. you bought it in a container, and it is in this form that they are often sold, then it can be planted later. In general, seedlings with ZKS can be planted all year round(even in summer).

When is the best time to plant - in spring or autumn

Many gardeners who decide to grow a crop in their area are interested in when it is better to plant gooseberries - in spring or autumn.

The answer is very simple! You can plant a shrub both in early spring and in autumn.

However, it is believed that it is best to plant berry bushes in the fall (2-4 weeks before the onset of frost).

Video: how to plant gooseberries in the fall - planting and care features

When to plant in spring in different regions

Naturally, depending on the climatic characteristics, the dates of the spring planting of gooseberries in different regions differ:

• In the South of Russia, gooseberries can be planted in March or early April.
• For gardeners Middle Band and the Moscow region should be planted no earlier than April.
• In Siberia and the Urals, it is possible to plant gooseberries in open ground only in late April and early May.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

Choosing the optimal date for planting seedlings can help you moon calendar.

So, auspicious days for the spring planting of gooseberries in 2019, according to the lunar calendar, are:

• in April - 11-17; 21-26.

Yes, this is not a mistake, it is recommended to plant seedlings of fruit and berry crops according to the lunar calendar only in April.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to get to the dacha exactly in auspicious days, therefore, the main thing is not to land in unfavorable periods according to the lunar calendar (new moon, full moon).

Unfavorable days, lunar calendar, for 2019 for planting gooseberry seedlings in spring, the following dates are:

• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17.

According to lunar calendar, from the magazine "1000 tips for summer residents".

How to plant gooseberries in spring: features, requirements and step-by-step instructions

For the spring planting of gooseberries to be successful, you need:

• buy a quality seedling;
• choose a suitable place on the site;
• prepare and fill the landing pit;
• correctly plant a seedling;
• follow the simple, but obligatory rules of care after landing.

Video: rules for planting gooseberries

How to choose and prepare a seedling for planting

When choosing a gooseberry seedling, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• The seedlings must be healthy appearance, without any signs of disease (glass, powdery mildew, etc.) and mechanical damage.
• When buying seedlings with an open root system (ACS), it is highly desirable to purchase exactly 2-year-old specimens.

Seedlings with a closed root system (ZKS) can be purchased as 1-year-old and 2-year-old.

• A 2-year-old seedling should have at least 2-3 strong shoots, at least 20-30 cm long and have a well-developed root system, at least 20-25 cm long.

A seedling in a container (with ZKS) should have a lot of leaves, and the length of the shoots should be about 30-50 cm. It is rather difficult to assess the root system, but it is possible. The seedling must sit firmly in the container, this will mean that the roots are well entwined with an earthen ball and the plant was originally grown this way.

Video: how to choose the right gooseberry seedlings

How to prepare a seedling

Before planting a seedling, for better survival of its rhizomes, you can dip it in a clay mash, reminiscent of thick sour cream in consistency, or support it for a couple of minutes in any root formation stimulator (for example, in Heteroauxin or Kornevin).

Planting site and suitable soil

The gooseberry loves the sun and will thrive in an open and well-lit area.

By the way! It is believed that the gooseberry tolerates partial shade from the sun (light partial shade).

But a deaf shadow behind a shed or near a fence, a tree-trunk circle of a spreading fruit tree, even heavily overgrown raspberry bushes are all unsuitable places for planting gooseberries.

Planting gooseberries in a lowland, swampy and waterlogged places, as in the case if your groundwater is close (closer than 1-1.5 meters), is not a good idea. Bushes planted in such areas will hurt and, as a result, are likely to die.

In this case, you can plant the gooseberries on an artificial hill.

The soil

Gooseberries love to grow on light (loose) and fertile soils, the same loam or sandy loam soil. The acidity should be neutral.

The gooseberry does not like acidic soil very much. You can reduce the acidity (deoxidize) the soil by adding to it dolomite flour or lime.

Naturally, if you periodically apply fertilizers and make regular watering, gooseberries will grow well on poorer sandy or clay soils.

However, if the soil is excessively clayey, the water will stagnate, the root collar will rot and the seedling will simply disappear. On the contrary, if the soil is too sandy, then the seedling may dry out from lack of moisture, which will evaporate very quickly after watering.

Advice! To do clay soil loose, it is mixed with sand. If the soil on the site is sandy, then clay is added to it.

At what distance to plant

As a rule, it is recommended to leave a distance of 1.2-1.5 m between the gooseberry bushes, the width of the row spacing is 2-2.5 m. large space, and harvesting from individual bushes is much faster and safer than from a hedge.

Important! In order for the gooseberry to develop normally, the distance to the fence should be at least 1, and preferably 1.5 meters.

Culture Neighborhood Rules

Many gardeners ask the question: "Is it possible to plant gooseberries next to currants?"

Some people think they are harming each other, but in reality they are not. Another thing is that they have common diseases and pests. And in case contamination of one crop, the second is likely to suffer as well.

You should also not plant too close to raspberries, because raspberries will simply shade your gooseberries.

To what depth to plant (what should be the planting pit)

The optimal size of the gooseberry planting pit is 50 to 50 centimeters (depth and width / diameter), but it can be wider and deeper (up to 60 cm).

Remember! The larger the hole, the more fertile soil can be laid in it.

When planting, it is important to take into account one single fact - it is necessary to deepen the root collar by no less than 6-7 cm. otherwise shoots growing from the root will be weak.

Advice! If you are planting a seedling in a container (with ZKS), then just make a hole 2-3 times larger than the container itself.

How and what to fill the planting hole

In order for the plant to quickly take root in a new place, the gooseberry planting plant should be filled with a fertile substrate (soil mixture), namely apply organic and mineral fertilizers:

Important! Mineral fertilizers it is imperative to carefully to mix with earth and humus, and only then pour the resulting mixture into the pit.

• the upper fertile layer of soil (which you have left after digging a hole);
• compost or humus (bucket);
• deoxidized high-moor peat (optional and possible);
• (80-100 grams) or 300-400 gr. bone meal;
• potassium sulfate (60-80 grams) or 200 gr. ...

Or you can simply pour in about 80-100 grams of nitroammophoska or diammophoska, of course, if you use mineral fertilizers.

Direct landing

Step-by-step instruction planting a gooseberry seedling in spring:

• Fill the planting hole halfway with the nutrient mixture.
• Further, if desired (many water it only after planting, others both before and after - as you like), you can slightly spill the nutrient soil with water (5-10 liters).

• Make a small cone-shaped mound in the center of the planting hole.

If you are planting a seedling with a closed root system (in a container), then you do not need to make any mounds, but simply plant it in a prepared planting hole without disturbing the earthen coma.

• Place the seedling in the center of the mound and spread the roots down to the sides (the roots should never bend and stick up!).

Note! Gooseberries, unlike currants, are planted without a slope.

• Cover with earth (the top fertile soil layer mixed with humus or peat), while slightly lifting and shaking the seedling so that the earth wakes up between the roots without leaving empty cavities.
• Compact the soil.

Note! Some gardeners recommend burying the root collar a few (5-7) centimeters into the soil (for good tillering). However, given that the earth is likely to settle, it is better not to deeply deepen initially.

On the other hand, it is believed that the gooseberry does not like moisture accumulating near the root collar, so it is better to plant it flush with the soil surface or even slightly higher (since the earth will surely settle).

By the way! Remember that the root collar is where the first root leaves the trunk.

• Next, you need to make a hole (roller) along the diameter (perimeter) of the trunk circle with a height of 5-10 cm.
• And then pour it abundantly, pouring out about a bucket of water (pour it out gradually - wait for it to be absorbed and add more).
• As a result, level the roller, loosen the soil in trunk circle and mulch it with peat, humus or compost.

Mulch will help prevent dry roots and excess moisture evaporation.

Video: how to plant gooseberries in spring

Caring for gooseberries after planting

Despite the fact that the gooseberry has excellent survival rate, it, along with other crops, needs to be provided proper care after landing.

Immediately after landing, it should be mandatory cut off shoots (aboveground part of the bush). Of course, if they have not yet been cut by the seller in advance, because as a rule, they sell or send just such.

How much to trim?

If the roots are weak, then we leave 2-3 buds (i.e. about 5-10 cm), and the rest - mercilessly cut off, if stronger, then 3-4 buds (10-15 cm) are possible.

Important! If this is not done, then the gooseberry will spend a lot of energy on building up the green mass (leaves), which are formed on a high stem, which will greatly deplete its already weak roots. As a result, the seedling will noticeably lag behind in development: it simply does not form a good root system and a sufficient number of replacement buds (from which shoots should appear next year).

What is it (mulching) for:

1. After abundant watering, a dry crust often forms. Thanks to mulch, the soil will always be loose, and moisture will last longer.
2. Weeds will not grow under the mulch.
3. Mulch is an excellent organic food supplement.

• Of course, we must not forget about watering.

In the first year after planting, watering should be taken especially seriously.

• No additional fertilizing will be required in the next 2-3 years, of course, if you have carefully filled the planting hole with everything you need.
• And in the fall you will need prepare the bushes for winter.

Advice! About, how to care for currants (and everything is the same for gooseberries) in the fall and properly prepare for winter, painted in detail.

Later in the composition basic care for gooseberries will include the following:

• Annual or.

Basic trimming gooseberries are usually performed after fruiting (in autumn), and in the spring they do only corrective, or rather sanitary pruning.

Of course, if you have not had the opportunity to prune the gooseberries in the fall, then pruning in the spring is better than not pruning at all.

• fertilization;

By the way! More detailed information about when and what to feed gooseberries in spring, you will find in.

• treatment for diseases and pests.
• If the gooseberry has grown too much (began to interfere), or his fruiting has noticeably decreased and he generally stopped developing - it's time for him plant or transplant, before.

By the way! The site has a detailed article about (the technique is basically the same).



Video: planting and caring for gooseberries

Possible mistakes when planting gooseberries in spring

Novice gardeners who are poorly aware of the features of a shrub often make mistakes when planting it. In order not to step on the same rake, it is better to familiarize yourself with typical misconceptions in advance and protect the gooseberry from its own bad influence, excluding the following most popular mistakes:

• Initially purchased poor quality seedling.
• Are selected wrong landing dates - either too early (the ground is frozen), or too late (in summer, when it is already hot).
• Picked up too shaded place.
• Ignored the need making a sufficient amount of nutrient soil and fertilizers into the landing pits.
• Bushes are planted too close to each other... Strongly thickened plantings poorly ventilated, which causes the plants to hurt. Either as a result of a lack of sunlight and nutrients too small berries are tied.
• After landing no trimming.
• Not produced due post-plant care, namely regular watering.

Well, let your gooseberry be as tasty as thorny (although thornless, thornless varieties have already appeared).



So, plant on your summer cottage gooseberries are easy. All a gardener needs is some free time and physical effort.

Video: how to plant gooseberries correctly

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