How to properly make a warm floor in a private house. Warm water floors: wiring diagrams in a private house, technical recommendations and do-it-yourself connection

Each owner of a private house faces a question of choice optimal view heating, which will not only fulfill its functions with dignity, but also be in harmony with modern design... Bulky heating radiators are outdated, worsen the interior of the room and dry the air. An alternative is a water heat-insulated floor, for a private house this is the most effective option.

What is a water heat-insulated floor

We bring to your attention not only a list of component materials, but also the principle of their choice.

Pipes. For the installation of floor heating, plastic or metal is used plastic pipes... Recently, plumbers have received recognition for pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene, which differ from other pipes in their high resistance to deformation, excellent thermal conductivity and a high degree of tightness.

An important condition when choosing pipes is their suitability for use in heating systems. Unfortunately, some unscrupulous sellers, taking advantage of the incompetence of the client, sell pipes intended for plumbing. The result is an inefficient underfloor heating system. To avoid this, you need to look at the markings that are on each pipe:

  • linear expansion no more than 0.025 mm / m;
  • thermal conductivity from 0.43 W / m 0 С.

The required amount of pipe depends on indicators such as laying step and the diameter of the material. See the table for details.

Boiler. You can buy gas, electric or solid fuels. The choice will be determined by the region of residence. For example, if there are power outages, then it is better to buy a gas boiler. If we talk about power, then it depends on many indicators. For a standard house with insulated walls, plastic windows and a ceiling height of at least 3 meters, the following calculation is made: specific power per one square meter should be 100 W or 1 kW per 10 m 2. Knowing the total area of ​​the house, you can calculate the power of the boiler. In this case, it is better to include a power reserve, about 20%.

Collector. Ensures the operability of the entire water floor and maintains the temperature set by the thermostat. It is best not to save money, but to buy a collector consisting of a flow sensor, a drain valve and a Mayevsky valve (bleeds air that has entered the system). Additionally, you will need to select a shield.

Circulation pump. Purchased if it is not already built into the boiler. This device circulates water in the system and can be equipped with a thermostat that will control the water flow rate and thus regulate the temperature in the system. The perfect solution- a three-speed pump with a temperature controller (installing a temperature controller will require knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and not everyone can do it). You can find out how to choose a pump by performance from the table:

As for the company, it is better to give preference European manufacturers... Excellent proven itself German company Grundfos.

Components. This includes couplings, threads, fittings, Ball Valves etc. The required number is calculated individually, based on the characteristics of each water floor heating system. Floor heating in each particular house has to be calculated and planned individually.

Read also about, which will help to seriously reduce heating costs.

Installation of a water floor

First of all, you need to inspect the old floor. Linoleum, parquet, boards are subject to dismantling. On the tile, if it is strong enough, you can lay plastic pipes without pouring a rough screed.

Rough screed, otherwise called "primary", serves for the most dense installation of thermal insulation. Therefore, at this stage, you do not have to worry much about the floor level and the presence of minor irregularities. A layer of concrete several centimeters thick will be enough. For these purposes, cement of the M-300 brand, mixed with sand in a 1: 4 ratio, is suitable.

The next step is to install the insulation. There is nothing complicated here, you just have to pay attention to the joints between the material. They need to be secured with mounting tape to avoid unnecessary heat loss.

Insulation material can be different:

  1. Styrofoam. Although it is considered a morally outdated insulation, it does an excellent job with the task assigned to it. The only drawback is fragility.
  2. Foam insulation with a reflective foil layer.
  3. Insulation polystyrene foam for underfloor heating. This material is best suited for insulation. Having a high density, expanded polystyrene (aka penoplex) perfectly insulates the water floor from the cold concrete base. You can use Penoplex 35, which is fire resistant.

The last step will be the installation of a reinforced mesh with a reinforcement section of 5 mm and a mesh size of 10-15 cm. It will be possible to attach the pipes themselves to it using plastic ties. In addition, the reinforced mesh serves as a binder for the concrete floor. Or you can use special water floor mats.

Secrets of the masters when installing a pipe for floor heating

Do-it-yourself work itself does not have any particular difficulties, but there are a number of nuances, the knowledge of which will help to carry out the installation correctly.

The choice of the laying scheme. There are two known methods of laying: a snake and a snail (spiral). The last option preferable. The fact is that when laying the pipe with a "snake", the water temperature decreases towards the end of the loop, which entails uneven heating of the floor. The arrangement of the pipe in a spiral will help to avoid this: the floor warms up evenly. At the same time, much less material is required.

How long should the pipe be? Regardless of the power of the selected boiler, the water will cool down as it moves away from the point of intake. Therefore, the recommended pipe length s is 100 m. If necessary greater importance, use several circuits, each of which is connected to the collector separately.

How to calculate the installation step? Only an experienced designer can accurately calculate the step: many factors are taken into account to obtain the correct value, from the thickness of the walls and the size of the windows, to the diameter of the pipe. Nevertheless, there is averaged data, which we will operate on. Optimal step installation for the system, which is the main source of heat in the house, is 10-20 cm. This value is not constant. Near the outer walls, the first 5-6 rows are laid with a step of 5-6 cm, closer to the inner walls and in the middle of the room, the step increases to the above data.

Today in hardware stores there are special mats for warm water floors, which greatly simplify and speed up the process of laying pipes. See the photo how it works.


Application of mats for warm water floors

How to solder pipes correctly? There are also several subtleties in this question that need to be covered within the framework of the article:

  • connect pipes to each other, it is better by means of special adapters (otherwise, barrels);
  • if soldering is done metal-plastic pipes, then the metal sheathing must be removed at a distance of about 3 cm from the pipe edge.

To achieve a high quality connection, refer to the following table.

Assembly, installation, connection of the collector

It should be noted that the installation process of the collector will differ depending on the model, the number of heating circuits, and the selected components. For the system to function flawlessly, the assembly must be carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the devices.

Where to locate the collector? When choosing a place for mounting the manifold box, an equal distance from all circuits must be taken into account. This is necessary to ensure uniform water pressure in all circuits. If the wall on which you are installing manifold cabinet, not carrying - you can make a niche in it.

How to assemble a collector?

Let's consider the assembly process using the Icma UPS model as an example. In this case, we will take into account that it is used together circulation pump and the manifold itself, this will provide easy heating control.

  1. We install a circulation pump on the union nuts; gaskets are needed between the nut itself and the pump.
  2. We connect the manifold with the pumping group by winding the adapters with the union nut and not forgetting about the gaskets.
  3. A thermostat and a valve responsible for the flow must be connected to the mixing block. cold water(mixing).
  4. We connect the mixing group to the manifold.

Now the collector can be installed in the enclosure, supply and return can be connected to the distributor from below, then the heating circuit elements can also be connected using adapters.

Boiler installation: features, sequence

When connecting the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem often arises. The fact is that the boiler gives out a water temperature of 75-80 0 С, and for normal operation of a water heated floor, a temperature of no more than 45 0 С is required. For this reason, the connection must be made in such a way that water with a reduced temperature is supplied to the pipes. Do it in closed system heating can only be done in one way: dilute hot water cooled down, coming from the "return". This function is performed by the underfloor heating mixing unit.

Floor heating during installation must be assembled according to the following scheme, starting from the boiler:

  1. At the beginning of the circuit, a control valve is installed, then a circulation pump and a manifold.
  2. A mixing unit is mounted between the valve and the pump so that the cooled water from the "return" flows into the supply and then through the circulation pump to the heating system.
  3. The final stage is bringing the return pipe to the boiler.

It should be remembered that the installation principle of the boiler itself will differ in different models and types of equipment.

Read more: floor with wiring diagrams.

Pressure testing and trial run

After graduation installation works you need to test the system. For this, a pressure test is carried out.

There are two ways to check the tightness of the system: pressurized water or compressed air... The first option is preferable: after checking for leaks, you can immediately turn on the heating. The air test is used when the heated floors are operated from central heating, and there is no confidence in its timely inclusion. In any case, the pressure should not exceed 6 bar. The system is considered operational if the pressure has dropped by no more than 1.5 bar in 24 hours.

After the tightness test, a full start-up can be carried out. The water temperature should be about 80 0 С; for this, the mixing unit must be turned off. At this temperature, the stress in the pipes decreases, which ensures the durability of the structure.

Conclusion

It is necessary to pour the concrete screed after the water in the pipes has completely cooled down. For the screed, you can use both traditional concrete and a solution for a warm floor, which has a higher ability to conduct heat. The layer thickness should not exceed 7 cm.

After final drying, the screed can be laid flooring.

Underfloor heating for a private house, in contrast to the radiator system, is more economical and practical. Underfloor heating creates excellent air convection in the home. There are many subtleties that should be considered when making underfloor heating in a private house. It is not easy to lay pipes in concrete or electric mats. It is important to make correct calculations here, especially if you plan to use them as the main source of heat. This article will discuss issues related to how to make a warm floor in a private house.

Underfloor heating in a private house - is it needed?

Underfloor heating is expensive, but well worth it. How is the value formed? There are many factors that influence pricing. For example, what layer of thermal insulation needs to be laid, what will be the thickness of the heating cake, how the floor will be adjusted and much more. Is it worth spending time, money and effort on creating such a complex heating system? As practice shows, underfloor heating in a private house is a reliable design that works properly and provides a stable temperature.

Note! In order to save money, some decide to make a mixed heating system. In this case, the main source of heat will be the radiator system, and the warm floor as additional element... For example, warm floors are used to equip rooms where ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware are laid.

Underfloor heating in a private house has a number of positive sides that should not be overlooked. If you still doubt the correctness of your decision, then the following factors will dispel all doubts:

  • The even distribution of thermal energy creates an increased thermal comfort. So, the floors are pleasant to the touch, thanks to which you will never get cold on your feet.
  • Significant reduction in energy consumption for home heating.
  • Due to the low temperature of the coolant, maximum efficiency operation of the heat pump and condensing boiler.
  • Does not spoil the appearance of the room, as the underfloor heating system is hidden from view.
  • There are no temperature fluctuations in the room.
  • Due to the large thermal inertia, there are no sudden temperature changes in the room.

For the sake of objectivity, some disadvantages of arranging a warm floor should be highlighted:

  • If you carry out an incorrect installation, then in the event of a malfunction, it will take a lot of effort and money to eliminate them.
  • Not every finishing material can be combined with warm floors. If the heated floors are cluttered with furniture, the heat output will decrease.
  • It is important to equip the system with a circulation pump and a thermostat. Allowing the system to overheat can lead to bad consequences.
  • If a concrete warm floor is equipped, then there is an additional load on the floor of the house.
  • Unlike a radiator system, a warm floor has a high cost.

Considering all this, we have to admit that, with all the disadvantages, warm floors in a private house are great idea... Now we will consider some of the nuances that should be considered when organizing floor heating.

Calculation of heat transfer and heat loss

The values ​​of heat output and heat loss will make it possible to understand whether it is possible to use underfloor heating as the main heating in a private house. So, if you determine that there are large heat losses, then the warm floor cannot be the main one, but only additional heating.

For example, let's take a house with an area of ​​100 m 2, in which the heat loss will be 75 W / m 2. In this case, the area of ​​the heated floor is 70%, that is, 70 m 2. Average power underfloor heating is 90 W / m 2. Multiplying two indicators of 90 W / m 2 by 70 m 2, we get an indicator for heat transfer from a floor with a capacity of 6300 W. To determine heat loss, the entire floor area, in our case 100 m 2, is multiplied by 75 W / m 2. As a result, we get 7,500 watts. With this calculation, it is clear that the heat loss is greater than the heat transfer from the floor. Therefore, warm floors cannot be basic in any way. With this example, you can easily define the task for the underfloor heating to be created.

Permissible power of underfloor heating

If your house has a lot of heat loss, then the heating power of 80 W / m 2 may not be enough, especially if the house has large windows. But problems can arise even in a small room, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. So, by installing a shower cabin, toilet, washing machine and other items, the heated area is significantly reduced. As a result, the power of 80 W / m 2 will clearly not be enough. This also applies to bedrooms. A large area of ​​the floor will be covered by wardrobes, bedding and the like. The efficiency of underfloor heating is automatically reduced.

Note! If the warm floor will give out a power of 800 W per 10 m 2, then it is worth considering that the same power can be produced by radiators 50 × 50 × 15. This is due to the fact that the coolant for the radiator has a temperature of up to 80 ° C.

Considering these factors, we come to the conclusion that it is necessary to accurately calculate the power of the heating circuits to create warm floors as the main heating. And in some cases, you will need to install additional heating radiators or a heated towel rail (for the bathroom).

A private house can be equipped with warm floors of two types:

  1. Water.
  2. Electric.

Concerning country houses, then electric heating is used extremely rarely. There are good reasons for this, for example, the high consumption of electricity. For the most part, warm electric floors are installed in apartments as an additional source of heat. In this case, they have much more advantages, since their installation does not take much time and effort, and high power is not required to heat the apartment.

It is much more difficult to install water floors, but for a private house they are more effective. In this case, the house should be insulated, the screed should be poured and the collector should be connected. The water heating system is designed for continuous use. At correct installation, as well as subsequent maintenance, it can last up to 30 years. Among other things, water heating has a low level of inertia. If the floor warms up enough, it will retain heat well. As a consequence, constant replenishment with hot coolant is not required.

Note! It is recommended to install a warm water floor on an area of ​​no more than 15 m 2. In this case, it is necessary to make a project on which the arrangement of furniture and other items will be indicated.

With the correct organization of a warm water floor, you can completely abandon the radiators, which often interfere with the implementation design ideas... For example, you can install the so-called "French windows" (from floor to ceiling). Plus, you can save on space heating. If you are not currently using one of the rooms, then one circuit can be turned off on the collector. Accordingly, this will be reflected in the total flow rates of the heating medium.

As for the installation of underfloor heating in a private house, there are three methods of laying them:

  1. On a wooden floor.
  2. On a concrete screed.
  3. On the ground.

In most cases, the technology of laying on a concrete screed is used. The wooden, obsolete, floor is torn off and the screed is poured. In this case, a rough screed is poured. The contours of the pipes are laid on top, and then the finishing screed is poured and the floor covering is laid.

Note! Laying heating pipes in a screed will require more power of the heating system, because you will have to warm up the heating "pie" and plus the floor covering well. These nuances are taken into account when creating a heating project.

There is another widespread technology for the manufacture of underfloor heating - on the ground. To implement it, you need to remove upper layer soil. Further, a pillow is made of sand, 10 cm thick and crushed stone up to 10 cm of fine fraction. It is also necessary to install a waterproofing layer. For this, roofing material or a special membrane is used. On top of this, a rough screed is poured, a heater with a heat-reflecting surface and pipes are placed.

Note! If there are pipes at the base of your house, then the installation of a warm water floor is greatly simplified. You will need to level the floor surface, level cracks and make heating circuits.

All the work can be done by hand. To do this, you should carefully study the provided instructions:

  • As mentioned above, roofing material can be used for the waterproofing layer. Roll roofing material or other insulating materials over the surface of the base. It is important to glue each joint well. Therefore, the sheets of roofing material are laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Bonding can be carried out using special adhesive tape, resin, high temperature, and the like.
  • To prevent the cold from entering the room from below, the next layer is made - thermal insulation. High density foam can be used for this purpose. As a result, the heat from the pipes will not go down, and the cold from the ground will not rise up. In most cases, a 5 cm layer of thermal insulation is sufficient.
  • At the next stage, a vapor barrier is made. This is important because, in otherwise condensation will appear on top of the insulation. For the manufacture of vapor barrier, a strong plastic film is used. The flooring, like the roofing material, is overlapped by 10 cm, after which the film is glued with tape.

Note! The thermal insulation layer is influenced by several factors, for example, the coefficient of thermal insulation, the capacity of the heating system, the location of the house, etc.

When all these preparatory work has been completed, it's time to start making a rough screed. To do this, lay the reinforcement mesh. Usually a mesh with cells of 150 × 150 mm is used. It is necessary to put a reflective film under the mesh, which will direct the flow of thermal energy upward. The contours of the heating pipes can be laid out on the mesh. It should be noted that when arranging a water heated floor in a private house, it is important to allocate a place for installing a collector. Through it, the temperature level in the room will be controlled.

If necessary, you can create 2, 3, or even 5 heating circuits. In the collector, each circuit can be signed, for the convenience of managing underfloor heating. The pipes are fastened directly to metal mesh, special clamps. In conclusion, the finishing screed is poured. It is necessary to add a plasticizer to it, which will prevent the screed from cracking when it is heated. Also, along the entire perimeter of the room, a damper tape is laid against the wall, which will serve to compensate for thermal expansion.

Note! It is possible to fill the screed only when the system is filled with water. The water should remain in the pipes until the screed is completely dry. It is impossible to turn on the heating during this process.

At the end, all you have to do is lay the finishing floor covering, for example, tiles, parquet board, laminate and the like.

Nuances that cannot be forgotten

When arranging a warm water floor in a private house, it is important to pay special attention to the little things. Failure to follow simple rules can nullify all your efforts. Below are the tips and tricks, the observance of which will help to do all the work as efficiently as possible:

  • Using a damper tape mandatory requirement... Due to this, the heating cake can expand when the temperature changes. This expansion will fully compensate for the damper tape, which is glued to the wall over the entire floor area.
  • An important condition is the arrangement of a comb or collector. It is unacceptable to save on this device. This is the place to control your warm floors. A pipeline with a hot coolant from the boiler is supplied to it. It also distributes the coolant along the heating circuits. Thanks to the mixing unit, a clear balance is achieved temperature regime... As a result, the created system works with high efficiency.
  • The thickness of the finishing screed on top of the pipes should not exceed 6 cm. In order for the mortar to be elastic, a plasticizer is added to it, which will increase the resistance to temperature extremes.
  • To prevent the screed from drying out, you can cover the top with plastic wrap while it dries. If this is not possible, moisten the screed regularly.

So, we have considered with you one of the possible technologies arrangement of a warm floor. For example, if you want to save a wooden floor, then it can also be laid on top heating pipes... There is a technology for this, which is not used very often. We hope that the article provided will help you do all the work with your own hands so that during the cold period of time the room has a comfortable temperature. In addition to this, we offer you a video on this topic, as well as diagrams from which you can learn about other aspects of designing underfloor heating in a private house. if you have personal experience on the manufacture of such a system, then be sure to write reviews at the end of the article.

Video

From the provided video material, you can learn more about the intricacies of creating a warm floor in a private house:

Schemes

Below is a number of schemes from which you can learn some of the subtleties of making a warm water floor in a private house:

The issue of organizing heating is the most important for everyone building their home. Of course, if you exclude the inhabitants of the tropics, where the problem is diametrically opposite. It is estimated that a water floor can save up to 20% on heating costs. But only if you do everything right!

Where to start the process of installing a warm floor?

Of course, with calculations! And very detailed - the wrong choice of laying pitch or pipe diameter will lead to always cold rooms or streaks of heat on the floor. And given that the system is literally "embedded", the cost of rework will exceed the installation of a new warm floor.

How to calculate the warm floor correctly?

It is rather difficult to do it manually, so it is better to use one of the special programs, for example Valtec. It is a multifunctional program for calculating heating, water supply and hydraulics.

  • accurate data on premises - floor and wall area, size of door and window openings;
  • wall, floor and even ceiling materials;
  • arrangement of furniture that will not move - sliding wardrobes, kitchen sets, shower cabins, etc .;
  • desired indoor temperature;
  • the presence and thickness of the carpet.

The advantage of using the programs is the simplicity of calculations. By simply entering the necessary information into the appropriate cells, you can get the calculation at the output:

  • heat loss in each room;
  • heat load - heat inflow, which will give a warm floor in each room;
  • hydraulic resistance of the entire system in a private house;
  • the amount of all materials required for underfloor heating.

What you need to know to organize a warm floor?

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials, you need to take into account all the nuances. First, it is the diameter of the pipes. Don't take too big, 16mm is enough. A pipe of this diameter allows you to make a step of at least 10 cm without kinking at the bend when laying with a snake. But the maximum pipe length cannot exceed 90 m.

Secondly, this is the pipe-laying step - ideally, it should be within 10-20 cm, and must be a multiple of 5. The step is smaller near the outer walls and windows, and more near the inner ones.

Under heavy furniture that is firmly attached to the floor and placed near interior walls, you can start laying the hinges at a distance of 1 m from the walls. Also, do not lay pipes under floor-standing toilet- drilling holes for fasteners can damage the floor system.

Thirdly, it is the length of the pipes. It must be the same for all circuits connected to the same collector. Of course, in practice, this is unrealistic to achieve, so the difference must be reduced to a maximum of 10 m. So, in large rooms you will have to lay two contours, in small rooms - reduce the laying step. At the same time, it is not recommended to connect more than 9 circuits 90 m long to one collector - it is better to split them into two devices.

Pipes cannot go up from it, so another collector will have to be installed on the second floor. If the collector is on outside wall, the outgoing pipes must be insulated.

Laying underfloor heating in a concrete screed

  1. The collector cabinet and the collector itself are mounted, to which the pipes will be connected. If necessary, holes are drilled for the output of pipes.
  2. A damper tape is glued to the walls along the entire perimeter, as well as between the contours, if they are within the same room. It compensates for thermal expansion of the floor and insulates the cold wall. The width should be 15 cm or more - depending on the thickness of the “pie” of the warm floor.
  3. On concrete base insulation is laid. For the first or basement floor without a heated basement, it should be at least 5 cm thick, on other floors - from 3 cm. It is necessary to insulate the concrete slab of the second floor in order to reduce the heat consumption for heating this very slab. All the same, warm air rises up and the ceiling will not heat the lower rooms.
  4. Waterproofing is laid on the insulation and reinforcing mesh is laid.
  5. Now you can start laying pipes - from the outer wall to the inner one, if the "snake" method is chosen, or from the walls to the center, if the pipes are laid "by the snail".
  6. The turns can be fixed either with special fasteners, or with ordinary plastic screed to fittings. In the latter case, it must not be tightened tight!
  7. After connecting all the circuits, a test run of the heating system is done - it must work at maximum pressure and operating temperature for 24 hours.
  8. If there are no leaks or other malfunctions, the screed is poured. It can be made thicker under the tiles - up to 5 cm, and under the laminate, which accumulates and conducts heat poorly, you should not make it more than 2 cm.In this case, the screed is reinforced with a second layer of mesh laid on top of the pipes.
  9. It is important not to forget to water the concrete every day, because it gains hardness when it comes into contact with water. The flooring is laid after 28 days, after the screed has completely hardened.

If the house is wooden or frame, and load-bearing floors not designed for the weight of a concrete screed, you can arrange a floor heating. Its advantage is the absence of a "wet" process, so immediately after installing the system, you can enjoy the warmth in the house.

Another undoubted advantage of this solution is the small thickness of the cake and the possibility of laying it on an old wooden floor. How to do it simply is clearly shown in the video:

One of the options for heating a private house is to arrange underfloor heating. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living quarters from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The construction of a warm floor cannot be called complicated, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out by pipes located under the floor covering, through which a heated coolant circulates, or by means of electric heating elements.

As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the house.

Among positive qualities underfloor heating, the following stand out most clearly:

  1. High level of comfort... The floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot, without fear of any discomfort.
  2. Profitability... Saving in the use of underfloor heating is achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from the bottom up and heats only that volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. there are no unnecessary expenses.
  3. Possibility of setting the temperature regime... It is highly recommended to equip the warm floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within the user-specified limits.
  4. Ease of installation... Arranging underfloor heating is a fairly simple task, especially when it comes to the electrical version of the system. It is more difficult to lay a water circuit, but even if you wish, you can easily install it yourself.

There are also disadvantages:

  1. High cost... A lot of materials will be required to install a warm floor, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce the cost level - to do all the work on the heating arrangement yourself.
  2. Reducing the volume of the room... The thickness of the warm floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then there will be no special problems because of this (unless the thresholds have to be redone).
  3. Demanding flooring... It is possible to cover a warm floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed to be used in combination with warm floors. An inappropriate coating will prevent the system from operating efficiently, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their failure as a result of overheating.

The advantages of underfloor heating are significant, but the disadvantages are not critical, therefore, such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.

Substrate preparation for all types and variants of underfloor heating

One of essential elements is the basis for underfloor heating in a private house, which must be prepared even before the heating system itself is equipped. A number of requirements are imposed on the base - it must be strong enough, even and not transmitting heat. Each requirement is important, but it is thermal insulation that requires special attention - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various insulation is used for pipes, which must be selected for specific conditions.

The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following stages:

  1. Dismantling... The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports... All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
  2. Markup... With help building level along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be aligned. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient for effective conservation heat.
  3. Bedding... The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. After backfilling, the sand cushion must be compacted.
  4. Waterproofing... Hydro is laid on the compacted sand layer. insulating material(polyethylene is the cheapest, but a waterproofing membrane is a more reliable option).
  5. Placement of beacons... Now you need to install the supports along which the beacon profiles will be located. Beacons need to be aligned very accurately.
  6. Installation of thermal insulation... All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
  7. Filling the screed... Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can start pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
  8. Alignment... When the screed grasps a little, the beacons need to be removed and the holes obtained should be repaired. The seams are rubbed, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely solidified.

In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:

  • Polystyrene plates, which are usually reinforced with a reinforcing mesh to increase strength and are attached to the base with anchors;
  • Roll foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
  • Polymer mats designed specifically for laying a water-heated floor, for which there are special protrusions in the material, between which pipes are laid.

DIY water floor heating device

Exists different variants underfloor heating in a private house, but the most popular type are aquatic. Structurally, such heating is a system of pipelines laid under the floor covering, through which a hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system, or directly to a heat source.


Water heat-insulated floor includes the following elements:

  1. Pipes... For arranging a warm floor, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes... Both materials have good thermal conductivity and low coefficient of thermal expansion.
  2. Collector... This element is necessary to form a proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate leads. In inexpensive manifolds, there are only shut-off ball valves, while good devices are supplied with a valve allowing to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
  3. Circulation pump... The pump ensures normal circulation of the coolant in warm floors... If in heating equipment there is a built-in circulation pump, there is no need for a separate device.
  4. Damper tape... Such a tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from expanded polymers.
  5. Fasteners... If laying is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of fasteners for pipes. In all other cases, you will need special brackets equipped with locks and anchoring.

Laying pipes in a private house

In order for the underfloor heating to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. It is not worth saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor sections, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.


The total length of pipes for one room is calculated using the following formula:

  • D = S / M * k, where
  • D - total pipe length,
  • S is the area of ​​the room,
  • M - laying step,
  • k - safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.

Usually for 1 sq.m. the area of ​​the room requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.


An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:

  1. "Snake"... A good option for not large rooms... Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes practically does not decrease throughout the entire circuit.
  2. "Snail" and "double snake"... These layouts are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Due to the close arrangement of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
  3. Multiple circuit diagram... For full and efficient heating of large rooms, it is most advisable to equip several separate circuits, which will provide good heat transfer and will be quite reliable.

Installation of water underfloor heating

A water heat-insulated floor in a private house is laid according to the following technology:

  1. Collector installation... The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
  2. Installing a damper tape... The tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where the heating circuit will be located. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
  3. Reinforcement... Reinforcement mesh must be laid on the thermal insulation layer, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
  4. Installation of pipes... The pipes of the water circuit are unwound, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the chosen scheme and fixed with brackets or clamps.
  5. Manifold connection... All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with coolant. The water circuit must be left in working order for two days to check for leaks.
  6. Filling the screed... On top of the system filled with water, an ordinary cement strainer, which must be left until completely solidified (this usually takes about a month). When the solution is completely dry, it will be possible to start heating in operating mode. Premature start-up of the system is likely to damage the concrete layer.

The device and types of electric underfloor heating

If it is necessary to lay underfloor heating in a separate room, then the electric heating system will be more relevant. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as an auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.


There are the following types of electric underfloor heating:

  1. Film... The most popular type of heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon fiber plates, fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
  2. Cable... This type of heater is based on a cable with a high resistance, due to which, when current passes, the product generates thermal energy... The pitch of cable heaters can be varied, thereby affecting the intensity of heating the room.
  3. Rod... The main structural element are carbon rods connected by wires to form a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type electric heaters... See also: "How to make an electric floor heating with your own hands - types of floor heating, installation rules."

Installation of film underfloor heating

Film underfloor heating is the most common system, which is largely due to the simplicity of its installation.

An electric underfloor heating in a private house is equipped from scratch using the following technology:

  1. Laying reflective material... It is highly recommended to install heat-reflecting foil material under the film warm floor, which will prevent the passage of heat into the underfloor space.
  2. Cut film... It is advisable to cut the film as little as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. Cutting of the film can only be carried out along the cut lines drawn on it - this allows you to avoid damage to the internal elements of the material.
  3. Laying the film... The prepared heating elements are laid out on the base and aligned. You can fasten the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to fasten the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
  4. Connecting stripes... In the areas where the conductive track is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
  5. Isolation of contacts... Each contact and the area where the strips have been cut must be carefully insulated. A good option insulation is butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the underfloor heating. Contacts are simply crimped with such plates.
  6. Connecting the thermostat... The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, guided by the instructions on its case or in the instructions. It is imperative to turn on the system and make sure that all lanes are working.
  7. Installation of flooring... If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.

Conclusion

It is very easy to equip a warm floor - all types of warm floors in a private house are assembled without any problems with their own hands. The ready-made system will provide full heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.


Among existing options heating country house the simplest and most economical is the construction of a system for heating air masses inside the room from below, or a warm floor. The market offers many alternatives, forcing the owners to look for answers to the questions: which system to prefer, how best to make a warm floor in a private house, and whether it is possible to carry out the installation yourself.

For country cottages with an autonomous boiler room, it will be cheaper and more convenient to use water system heating air masses from the bottom of the room. The locality of the network will make it possible to regulate both the temperature and pressure of the coolant in the pipes, and its speed, quality, and costs. And this will affect the service life of the entire system, its efficiency and the ability to create optimal comfortable conditions... It is possible to organize an auxiliary heating system when connected to a centralized network. But how effective such a water floor will be in a private house is difficult to judge, since the inclusion of an auxiliary system:


For these reasons, electric or infrared underfloor heating in a private house connected to centralized heating, or an apartment would be more appropriate. With an autonomous heating system, it is wiser and more practical to choose water heating floors. Let's take a closer look at how the system works and how it works. And also we will find out the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house without the involvement of specialists.

The principle of operation of a warm floor in the house

The auxiliary system for heating air masses from the bottom of the room consists of:


The photo shows a diagram of a water-heated floor in a private house, taking into account the radiator system. The latter will be needed in very coldy as the surface temperature of the floor must not exceed:

  • 27-330С in a bathroom or a bathroom;
  • 21-270С in the kitchen;
  • 24-290С in the bedroom, living room and other living rooms;
  • 300C in hallways, corridors, lobbies, etc.

At this temperature of air masses on the floor surface and temperature environment outside the window below -100С create during indoor areas cottage comfortable living conditions are impossible. Temperature calculations were carried out taking into account the effect of underfloor heating on human health with a long stay in the room and high temperatures for performance characteristics floor coverings.

The above diagram shows how to make a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house, but its principle of operation is not told. It is extremely simple. The water is heated by the boiler to 75-900C and is supplied to the mixing unit with the help of a pump. Here there is a decrease in the degree of the coolant from the "return". The mixing process is carried out by a three-way valve. The coolant cooled to 45-550C is supplied by a pump to distribution unit, collected from the collectors, to which the contours of the underfloor heating are connected - pipes. The feeding type of equipment sends the hot substance into the loop of the system. Having given up its heat, the coolant returns to the collector of the reverse type, then to the boiler.

The question of how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house of a given temperature in each room remained unclear. This requires a servo. It is mounted in the socket of the reverse type collector. The device will provide automatic regulation of the degrees of substance in the system by closing and opening (the processes are determined by the thermostat) passages to the circuits. The equipment is also designed to reduce the load on the system. The servo drive works smoothly and silently, so water hammer is completely excluded. Here it is worth considering one nuance. If you are interested in how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with two circuits, then 2 servos will have to be included in the circuit. The device is installed for each hinge separately.

Installation of water-heated floors in a private house on a concrete screed

The organization of the water system involves laying pipes for supplying the coolant directly to the concrete screed. Can be used sand-cement mortar, but with the scheme of the underfloor heating system in a private house, which is given above, it is much worse compatible. The structure device will be as follows (as it is installed):

  • Concrete screed or floor slab;
  • Waterproofing material. If the water floor in the house spreads over the ceiling, then insulating layer you don't have to lay it down, because intimacy groundwater No;
  • Heat insulating material. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene, but you can also lay styrofoam. But it must be borne in mind that the foam will be subjected to a load of at least 20-23 kg / m2. This means that its density should be more than 20 kg / m3. In order to avoid deformations, it is better to buy a slab with a density of at least 35 kg / m3 and even more.

An important point in figuring out how to make warm floors in a private house is correct choice materials for the floor cake. It is made taking into account the loads and operating standards. Therefore, if a more practical polystyrene foam is chosen as thermal insulation, its thickness should be over 20 mm. It is better to choose a slab with a thickness of 115 mm, otherwise you will have to solve the problem of how to make the warm floor in the house more efficient. The thicker the insulating material, the less heat leakage will occur. The density of the slab is 32-45 kg / m3 and more;

  • Waterproofing. An excellent option for a warm floor in a private house there will be polyethylene, which is rolled out over the surface in two layers. Material thickness - 110-155 microns;
  • Reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4 mm. Its fastening is carried out to a concrete screed or floor, and not to insulating materials. Otherwise, the immobility of the system cannot be guaranteed;
  • Pipes. Understanding how to make a warm floor in a private, take an interest in the concepts - materials for the production of pipes, the diameter of the pipes and the length of the circuit. The optimal product is considered to be a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm (when servicing an area of ​​over 50 m2). With such a product, the length of the contour must be made within 70-90 m.If the room is larger, 2 or more contours are laid or pipes are bought larger diameter... For the parameter 17 mm, the length of the contour is 90-105 m, for the parameter 20 mm - 120 mm.

The well-known technology of laying a warm water floor in a private house also involves calculating the step of installing pipes. It can vary from 10 to 30 cm. In the coldest zones it is recommended to make it no more than 100-150 mm, in the central zones - 200-300 mm. The smaller the step, the warmer it is in the zone. But when organizing a heating system in a private house in the floor, it is worth remembering that pipes, for example, made of metal-plastic, will be extremely difficult to bend without kinks and bends. Therefore, the styling scheme, the number of contours and the step should be carefully thought out;

  • Concrete screed. After fixing the pipes for the coolant with plastic clamps to the reinforcement mesh (use from 2 to 4 clamps on running meter) the base is poured with concrete. The layer thickness must be at least 50 mm (calculated from the upper surface of the pipe) when using pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. A thickness of 10 cm is allowed.If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to make water heating the floor in a private house with your own hands according to a scheme using pipes of a larger diameter, which means, keep in mind that the screed layer should be larger. But then the level of the floor will rise;
  • Substrate. When arranging warm water floors in a private house, it is better to use thick cardboard, cork, polyethylene foam. They are environmentally friendly and do not emit odors, toxins when exposed to high temperatures;
  • Finishing floor covering. Correctly mounted water floor heating in the house goes well with ceramic tiles, laminate, parquet, linoleum.

This should be the device of a warm floor in a private house and apartment - the installation technology and materials do not change. The minimum height of the floor cake will be 140-150 mm, but it can be more. If raising the floor level to this height seems impractical, it is wiser to install other types of warm floors in a private house - cable, infrared film, thermomats.

How to make warm floors from water heating in a private house correctly?

To organized system during operation, it did not become a disappointment and a waste of funds, the following points must be taken into account at the design stage:


Below are the wiring diagrams laying a warm water floor in a private house on the ground floor. Please note that in colder areas, the step is smaller.

How to fill a screed underfloor heating in a private house: proportions and materials

If water-heated floors in a private house are laid on a concrete floor with their own hands, then, most likely, the solution for the screed will be prepared independently. You will need one weight part of M 300 or 400 grade cement, plasticizers, additives and fine-grained crushed stone with sand, or better screening. The main components are taken in proportions of 1: 6 - one part of cement and 6 parts of screening. When using crushed stone and sand, the proportion will be 1: 4: 3.5 - one part of cement to 4 parts of crushed stone and 3.5 parts of sand.

If, figuring out how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house with your own hands, you do not want to waste time mixing the solution, you can use ready-made dry mixes. They are bred according to the instructions on the packaging, which makes it easier and faster to work. There is no need to add plasticizers and additives to ready-made mixtures.

The correct choice of screed solution when considering how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house yourself is extremely important. So, for example, a cement-sand screed will have less strength and lower heat transfer than concrete screed... Therefore, experts recommend using concrete, which is also less susceptible to cracking during cooling and subsequent heating.

Now we will master the principle of how to properly fill the warm floor in a private house after installing the pipeline:


When pouring the solution, the screed must be carefully tamped. You can use special Building tools, but you can also use a regular rake, a mop with a rag. This procedure is necessary in order to expel air pockets, the presence of which makes water heating of the floor in a private house less efficient.

Do-it-yourself water-heating floor in a private house: step-by-step instructions and technology

Having studied the device of a water-heated floor in a private house, we carry out direct installation with our own hands. He should follow a simple technique:

  • Preparation of the base. If the walls and ceiling have not yet been plastered, it is better to carry out this procedure before installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, otherwise it will be difficult to get rid of construction debris on the surface. This is extra work.
  • Laying waterproofing.
  • Installation of a damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
  • Filling the rough screed. If you are installing a warm water floor in a private house with your own hands, then you should take into account that the following stages of work can be carried out after the layer of the rough screed gets stronger. Do not lay the floor cake on the material with a moisture content of more than 80%. Otherwise, excess moisture will lead to cracking of the floor screed.
  • Installation of thermal insulation. When installing a warm floor in a private house with your own hands, do not forget to tape the insulating material with tape in order to avoid movements and layers. The joints in the bottom row should be overlapped with solid sheet areas in the second row.
  • Layout plastic film... The material must cover the entire surface area of ​​+50 mm at each wall. This surplus, if you want to make a warm floor from heating with your own hands in the house, reliable and durable, tamp it carefully (you cannot damage the damper tape) with a spatula between the cake and the wall. If the film is laid in pieces, they are overlapped and glued with tape.
  • Reinforcement device. When figuring out the process of how to make floors under a warm floor in a house, you need to remember one rule - there should be no progress. The mesh cells must correspond to the pipe spacing. This will make it easier to fix them.
  • Layout of pipes and their fixation. The operation is carried out strictly according to the selected installation scheme for a warm floor for a private house with accurate fastening and bending of pipes.
  • Installing the collector.
  • Connecting pipes and systems to the boiler.

After a self-made warm water floor is connected to heating in a private house, and the concrete layer is completely dry, you can warm up the surface. Installation with a concrete base is time consuming and painstaking. It should be started in the summer so that all layers of the floor cake dry well. Otherwise, the base will crack, which will damage the system. If there is no time to wait, it is better to mount a warm floor from heating in a private house on wooden or polymer mats. The styling procedure will take no more than 3-4 days. If the above step-by-step manufacture of a warm floor with your own hands in a private house left questions, then it is better to leave the procedure for installing and designing the system to professionals. Call us for a consultation!