Laminate flooring is one of the best value for money flooring. It is beautiful, does not require scrupulous maintenance, has a fairly long service life, is easy to install and can be laid on almost any base.

Laying the laminate with your own hands is quite within the power of even a beginner - step-by-step instruction will greatly facilitate this process and answer a lot of questions.

Step # 1 - choosing a way to install your laminate

The way laminate is laid is not strictly regulated. V to a greater extent depends on the personal preference of the homeowner and individual characteristics premises where it is planned to carry out facing work.

TO technical features premises include: the location of the window and the direction of natural light, the location of the door or entrance to the room, the size or area of ​​the room.

If the location of the door is not so important when choosing specific scheme installation of the coating, the direction of light and the overall size of the floor surface can make quite significant adjustments.

The laying method does not only determine the location of the lamellas, but affects the total material consumption

In view of the above, it is customary to distinguish the following styling methods:

• along the room or in the direction of the light - classic or traditional technology installation, allowing you to save on material, due to the use of the maximum number of laminate scraps. The unidirectional nature of the flooring and natural light partially obscures the joints between the lamellas, creating a one-piece effect.
• across or perpendicular to natural light - informally it is considered the most durable and durable way, due to the overlap or displacement of the joints of the previous row to the floor of the canvas. It is not recommended to use this technology for very small rooms, as the “checkerboard” arrangement of the lamellas can visually reduce an already small area.
• - the most complex and time-consuming installation scheme, since it will require constant trimming of the first and last canvases in a row at a certain angle. Undercut, in turn, directly affects overruns. facing material... Visually, on the contrary, it is the most advantageous way of positioning the lamellas, since it allows you to hide the unevenness of the walls and visually stretch out small rooms.

Step # 2 - Calculate the amount of material

Class 33 material is considered the best choice for living quarters

The calculation of the laminate is carried out taking into account the way it is laid. This is a prerequisite, since the material consumption for different orientations of the panels is different. The smallest in the standard orientation - along or along the length of the room, the largest - in the diagonal decking.

For the standard flooring method, the formula is: Room area / panel area. You can take the area of ​​one package - this point is not so important, since in any case, it is recalculated for the total number of packages.

It is advisable to visit point of sale where you plan to purchase the material and choose the appropriate cladding. Next, you need to know the total area of ​​the panels contained in the package. This information is open and usually printed on the packaging itself or on a paper receipt if the laminate is supplied in a plastic blister.

This information will allow you to more accurately navigate the calculation and not bother transferring the total number of panels into one package, etc.

For diagonal decking, the calculation is carried out according to a more complex formula, which I described in one of my articles. I recommend that you use a calculator. This will help you complete the calculation in a minute, saving you a lot of time for measuring and counting values.

The final number of packages obtained in the calculations is the minimum value that does not include the material required for trimming or not used due to factory defects.

It is optimal if 10-15% of the material is added to this value. For example, for 10 square meters, 9 packs of material are enough with a covered area of ​​10.3 square meters. It is advisable to add 1 more package to the total amount for the possible occurrence of the above problems.

Step # 3 - Selecting Material According to Requirements

Laminate is a multi-layer facing coating. Each technological layer fulfills its task. For a simpler understanding, manufacturers of laminated cladding do not cash in detailed information about which materials, for which layer and what thickness were used.

Table showing the ratio of class and material belonging

It is important for an ordinary consumer to know what is the thickness of the material, its service life, the technology of joining the lamellas and the instructions for laying. Therefore, when purchasing your favorite laminitis yourself, pay attention to the following:

• the lamella thickness is one of the most important parameters, since the minimum thickness should not be less than 8 mm. Sometimes, it is allowed to use 6 mm canvases, but the outer layer of such material wears out quickly. Optimal laminate flooring with a thickness of 10-12 mm. This ensures that the coating has a good load-bearing base and a sufficiently thick top surface.
• coating class - determines the ability of the material to withstand mechanical stress. That is, the class of the product directly affects how much load a given laminate can withstand. For standard apartments with 1-2 tenants, 32 class laminate is predominantly laid. For families with children and pets, it is advisable to install at least 33 class cladding.
• type of connection - a way of fixing the panels to each other. Currently, coatings with a lock connection such as "Click" and "Lock" are widely used. The first type is easier to install, but also more expensive. To lay the cover with a “Lock” lock, you will need a hammer and an assembly block.

There is a third type - but such solutions are out of use due to inefficiency and a large amount of work. And joints can be sealed for any type of locks.

When choosing a laminate for a bathroom or a bathroom, keep in mind that the material must be designed for use in such premises. You can find out about this by the corresponding icon on the package or in the instructions for the material.

Step # 4 - preparing concrete and wood surfaces

Cement screed is one of the most effective way eliminate surface drops

The complexity and process of preparing the bearing surface before laying the laminate with your own hands strongly depends on its initial technical condition. Roughly speaking, the worse the foundation, the more money and effort will have to be invested in it before laying something on it.

When laying laminate flooring, it is envisaged that the height deviation for the base will not exceed 3 mm for every 2 m2. This is the maximum value that ensures that the substrate used partially cancels out the differences. This will reduce the stress from walking on the surface, as a result of which the interlocks will remain intact.

With large differences, there is a risk that the applied load will lead to the formation of microcracks in the tool joints, and this will subsequently cause the lamella to break along the joint.

Renovation and restoration concrete foundations can be performed using leveling thin-layer mortars or pouring a concrete screed. The first option is used for minor damage to the surface, when the device of a full-fledged screed is impractical.

Plywood leveling is best done for all types of floors.

The screed is poured in each case individually, since before its device it will be necessary to find out maximum drops altitude and find out the bearing power for the current base. And already on the basis of the data obtained, make a decision on what thickness of the screed to use.

After pouring the screed, it is advisable to lay the plasterboard or plywood flooring over the entire area. Many craftsmen ignore this moment, but on practically bare concrete it is not the best choice.

For wooden floors, you will need to open the entire base to the very supporting structure... That is, to those elements on which the floor is based. Next, you need to check their condition for fungal infections and rot. If everything is in order, then the elements are treated with an antiseptic and the boards are laid according to the level.

Minor damage can be replaced with new material without replacing the entire element. If the lesions are too large, then the whole part will have to be replaced. For technically sturdy but “humped” floors, you can use the scraping method or lay the plywood sheets on the level.

Step # 5 - DIY Installation Instructions

Using an electric jigsaw significantly speeds up the installation process

Laying the laminate is carried out: a hammer or mallet, a mounting block made of wood or plastic, a hacksaw for metal, a tape measure and a square, a simple pencil or marker.

You may need a construction knife, duct tape, and a household vacuum cleaner. For sawing lamellas, you can use electric jigsaw... Gaps can be set by cutting material or buying a set of spacer wedges.

Before performing work, the laminate must lie down at room temperature for 48-72 hours. This will allow the lamellas to accept the final volume according to the temperature and humidity in the room. During this time, you can manage to make general scheme laying, which will speed up the process of laying the cladding.

Small irregularities and differences can be leveled with a substrate

DIY step-by-step instructions for laying laminate flooring will consist of the following:

1. In the room where the cladding is planned, dry and wet cleaning floor. All construction debris, sand and cement particles, dust and other contaminants should be removed. If present greasy stains or traces of paint, they can be removed with an organic solvent.
2. If, after leveling, gypsum fiber board or plywood sheets were laid on the floor surface, normal cleaning is performed using a household vacuum cleaner.



Laying the first row can be started with a single or half panel

3. The substrate is laid out and cut along the length of the room. The joints between adjacent rows are glued with paper tape. If an additional layer of waterproofing is required, then a polyethylene film with a thickness of 100 microns is placed under the substrate. During the process of flooring, the formation of unnecessary folds and bumps should be avoided.
4. The first row is being laid with a solid lamella. You can start laying with a shortened canvas, there is no fundamental difference. The second and subsequent slats are fixed in the side groove of the previous blade. For tamping, a mounting block and a hammer are used.



The second, third and subsequent rows are mounted by analogy

5. Then we continue laying the second row, overlapping the joints of the first by 35-40 cm. To do this, we saw off the lamella so that the connection with the adjacent canvas in the row falls on half of the panel of the previous row. To fix it, we hammer the lamella into the groove of the panel located in the previous row, and then fix it with the adjacent canvas.
6. The process of laying to the last row is similar. If necessary, the panels are trimmed to fit the shape of pipes or other plumbing elements passing through the floor slab.



The clamp will help you quickly lay the last row of laminate

7. To lay the last row, you will need to trim the panel in width and a special metal clamp. The width of the remaining panel is equal to the distance from the wall to the penultimate row minus the dimensions expansion joint... For installation, you will need to insert the panel into the “groove” of the panel of the previous row, attach a clamp and fix the canvas.

In general cases, laying the laminate with your own hands is quite feasible, the main thing is not to deviate from the step-by-step instructions and follow the recommendations. In conclusion, we advise you to watch the master class in video format.

What does the thickness of the laminate board affect? Of course, there are several quality characteristics that depend on such an indicator. The first is, of course, the quality of the lock: no cracks appear in such panels during operation. Secondly, they are several times quieter, which means that it is not at all necessary to lay carpet.

The main thing to remember is that the thickness of the laminate does not affect the degree of wear resistance of such a flooring, because only the upper protective layer is responsible for such a parameter, the thickness of which is no more than 0.5 mm, even with 33 class of wear resistance.

Yes, today many are very mistaken, thinking that the thicker the panel, the longer it will last. By the way, many manufacturers use this trick, supplying more and more of their products with a thickness of 12 mm to stores. Today, the universal size is considered to be a thickness of 8 mm. This option has an excellent level of sound absorption, as well as a very high quality of locks. But what about 12mm laminate flooring?

should be at least 15 mm, while in the usual version it is from 8 to 10 mm. If in some places the technical clearance is not observed, the floor will begin to deform and creak. A distance of 15 mm can be easily covered with a skirting board.

There is a fairly popular myth that a 12 mm beveled laminate is different high level soundproofing. We argue that this is not the case. No matter how tightly the plate is pressed, and whatever its size, it will always scatter sounds, both horizontally and vertically. To achieve the desired effect, it is enough to use good backing or install the flooring on a natural floor. Then the sound insulation performance will be several times higher.

Laminate 12 mm - a solution for a commercial space?

Class 33 is the class assigned to such panels, so naturally they are more suitable for commercial premises. They are characterized by the following indicators:

• Soundproofing;
• practicality;
• moisture resistance;
• strength.

According to generally recognized European standards, these lamellas pass 18 different tests, and then they are assigned the appropriate class, which directly depends on the quality indicators. Today the 33rd class provides for the possibility of using boards in commercial premises, characterized by intensive use. This is most often the case for office and public spaces. In this case, the minimum service life is up to 6 years. If you purchase such an option for a home, then the operational period can reach 25-30 years.

Although for a long period it was considered the best option, both for the office and for the home, multiple quality characteristics, operational, aesthetic and soundproof properties brought lamellas to the first place.

Advantages of 12 mm laminate from Germany

Of course, as mentioned earlier, such a laminate in itself does not guarantee wear resistance, but only demonstrates its characteristic thickness. Yes, the protective layer is thicker here, which means that the lamellae's ability to resist various damage, both chemical and mechanical, is quite high. Such a floor does not deteriorate from shoes, there are no dents from furniture or scratches on it. Even accidentally dropped objects will not harm him.

Let's talk about the benefits?

• It can be installed in rooms with an open area of ​​over 35 m2. For this, a floating laying method is used. The fact is that in this case, only a laminate with a thickness of 12 mm is suitable, because the thinner version is easier and will walk along the surface over time;
• lamella locks are able to withstand even a very heavy load, which cannot be said about other options. An important condition- the same panel density;
• if you divide the room into several zones, and you just need to maintain one level with the tiles, use boards of 12 mm. No other option will work;
• the thicker the board, the quieter the flooring when walking.

What are the disadvantages?

Yes, even if you decide to buy a 12 mm laminate, this does not mean that you have bypassed all the disadvantages of other lamellas. In this case, it must be borne in mind that:

• The thicker the board, the more noticeable the cracks, even in the driest and cleanest room;
• the thicker the board, the more expensive the material;
• in some cases, after installation, no matter how high-quality it is, the floor can rise so that front door it will be impossible to close.

It is for these reasons that you need to weigh everything carefully. per and against immediately before buying. Of course, none of us is immune from mistakes, but, nevertheless, they can be avoided if you take into account all important factors.

8mm or 12mm laminate: which is better?

In fact, 12 mm panels are characterized by much better qualities than their closest relatives of 8 mm. Compare at least the characteristics of strength or sound and heat insulation indicators. If you choose thicker, you buy a stronger and durable material that will last longer. So, you do not have to deal with repairing, dismantling, etc. too often. The advantage of such a flooring is that it is produced in 33 classes of wear resistance, while the 8-mm version is produced in 32 classes.

The disadvantage is the price of 12 mm laminate. It fluctuates around 650-770 rubles per square meter, while the average price for an 8 mm is from 450 to 550 rubles per square meter.

If we are talking about 12 mm lamellas, then in most cases it is found with a chamfer. What are the main areas of use for such a coating? When you want your flooring to mimic a plank floor, you need to choose just such a material with a wood pattern: cherry, rocky oak, Belgian teak or Indian teak. With the help of such slats, you can very quickly and conveniently equip not only rooms, but also a kitchen, attic or dining room.

If you choose the bevelled plain color, remember that it is best used in larger public spaces such as restaurants, cafes or lounges. Such a floor perfectly models the entire space with strict proportions and clear lines. selected fragments, of which the entire flooring consists. Remember that there are also more original, aesthetic ones available. And practical options, so the choice is always yours.

Of course, you can always buy 12 mm laminate flooring for your home. In this case, it will serve for more than a dozen years. So, you don't have to worry about quick repairs or dismantling. But, at the same time, you will need to pay a rather large amount of money for its purchase.

Today there are two types of chamfers that are characteristic of such lamellas:

1. V-shaped - deep with a depression of 3.5 mm;
2. U-shaped - with a depression of 2 mm. This option is most often
3. rounder and lighter than the panel tone and has a micro bevel up to 1 mm.

In the first version, the chamfer releases bubbles if the floor is sucking in water. Thus, it helps to prevent the slightest amount of moisture from entering the gaps between the individual elements. Such a floor is very resistant, and is also considered immune to household influences.

The second option is created in a decor with a stone imitation. In this case, there is a chamfer on both sides, as well as in the center of the panel, creating the illusion of two stones. The so-called micro-bevel also allows you to carefully hide the joints, it is very easy to use and does not require careful efforts during the installation process.

What is the advantage of such coverage? It's all about the tightly latched grooves: no water, no dust, or bacteria get into them. If we are talking about the operational period, then it is several times longer, and the material itself does not have any contraindications for use.

Beveled boards are much more practical than conventional boards. In case of irregularities, the lamellas are able to hide small imperfections. And, although the panels are not chamfered, it is not able to tear off the elevation differences. Of course, if you are sure that the rough base is perfectly flat and moisture will not get on it, then you can save on a cheaper option.

Laminate is one of the most popular on Russian market floor coverings. And this is quite logical and justified, because it combines beautiful appearance, reliability, durability, excellent performance and affordable cost. A nice bonus: laying laminate is a fairly simple process and even a person far from the construction industry can handle it. The main thing is to know some of the nuances and follow certain rules.

Laying laminate flooring for everyone

Preparing the base

The base must be flat. The maximum possible deviation does not exceed 2 mm per meter of floor surface, in otherwise the coating will creak, bend, lock or board may crack. Leveling the base is easy.

Laying on cement screed

When it comes to a concrete field, it is necessary to fill in the leveling screed. You can start laying the laminate after the strength of the solution reaches 50%.

The durability of the flooring will depend on the quality of the cement screed.

Laying on a wooden floor

If the house has wooden floors, it is necessary to remove all the boards and equip the cement floor (first, backfill, waterproofing, thermal insulation, then a reinforcing belt and screed).

If there is no time to install the correct cement coating, and the boards and logs of the wooden floor are not damaged, you can use plywood for leveling, on which you will subsequently lay the laminate. When laying plywood, make sure that the joints of the sheets do not coincide - the checkerboard pattern ensures the most even distribution of the load on the floor. It is necessary to leave small gaps between the plywood sheets, since the wood changes its linear dimensions with temperature and humidity changes.

Helpful advice! If you want to make underfloor heating, use special types of laminate that are resistant to high temperatures.

Types of underlays for laminate

A level and clean base prepared? It's time to install the lining - it is the lining that allows you to remove that 1-2 mm error, which is allowed by the instructions for laying the laminate. Other useful functions of the underlay include shock absorption, optimal load distribution, and a decrease in the "noise" of the floor.

Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, choose different types substrates.

Cork backing

As you might guess from the name, the material is made from cork chips. The advantages of this option include excellent heat and sound insulation properties. There are also disadvantages - a cork substrate is sensitive to high humidity and temperatures and is not suitable for heated floors. This is quite an expensive pleasure.

Cellulose-based bituminous cork backing

A layer of cellulose is impregnated with bitumen and cork chips are poured onto it. Unlike a cork substrate, bitumen-cork is not afraid of high temperatures and can boast of a more attractive cost.

Foamed polyethylene backing

Among the advantages are resistance to high humidity, chemical neutrality, resistance to bacteria, affordable cost and ease of use. If we talk about the disadvantages, then this is increased sensitivity to ultraviolet light, a short service life and poor "damping" of sounds. Foamed polyethylene backing - the best option when installing cheap laminate flooring, as the shelf life of the substrate and the flooring will be comparable.

Expanded polystyrene backing

Due to its high density, this type of substrate perfectly smooths out irregularities. It is characterized by excellent heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. But not the best option when laying laminate on the "warm floor" system. In terms of cost, this is an intermediate option, which in the price category is located between cheap polyethylene and expensive cork substrates.

Polyurethane on foil

The best option if you plan to install laminate flooring on a warm floor. Differs in good performance characteristics and pleases with an adequate cost.

The main types of substrates for laying under a laminate

Laying the underlayment under the laminate

First you need to choose the wall from which the floor installation will begin. Roll out the substrate under the laminate along the wall so that the entire floor is covered - from wall to wall. The joint lines must be aligned tightly. In order for the substrate to hold well in the place designated for it, the sheets do not move relative to each other, the joints can be glued with tape or fixed with staples from a construction stapler.

Helpful advice! Do not cover the entire floor with a substrate at once - it is better to spread each next layer as necessary so as not to walk on the material.

Laminate laying patterns

There are several options for installing laminate flooring. Which to choose? The basic rule is that the direction of light should go along the laminate boards, then the joints will be almost invisible.

If you want to move away from templates, try to lay the laminate at an angle, but be prepared for a large number waste.

Another nuance that you should be aware of when laying laminate is the need to offset the seams. The minimum distance at which one transverse seam must be from the other is 40 cm. By adhering to this proportion, you can be sure of the maximum strength of the laid laminate.

Most simple circuit laying the laminate according to the rule above - offset by half of the board. Start every odd row with a whole board, and every odd row with a half.

If the length of one board exceeds 1.2 m, then the second row can be shifted not by half, but by a third. In this case, the third row relative to the first will be displaced by 2/3 (relative to the second - by a third) - as a result, you will get a ladder. The smaller the distance between the transverse seams, the longer the ladder will be - the minimum offset of the rows can often be seen when laying expensive laminate flooring.

DIY laminate flooring: step by step instructions

Generally speaking, the laminate laying technology is the same. Slight differences are due to different laminate flooring locks.

1. The base of the floor is leveled, the underlay is laid on it. Remember to tape or staple the backing sheet joints.
2. It is necessary to create an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room - for this you need to install pieces of plywood (10-15 cm thick) or special pegs, which will then abut the laminate boards. The gap is necessary so that when the humidity or temperature rises, the floor does not deform.

1. Determine the wall from which you will start laying the laminate. Usually this is the wall opposite from the entrance.
2. The first row of laminate boards is placed against the wall with a thorn (if desired, the thorn can be cut off). The row should rest against the wedges, the outer boards also rest against the wedges with side locks. Do not forget to dock all the boards in the same row to each other. If the last board does not fit in length, it must be trimmed.

1. All laminate boards are trimmed the same way - they rotate face side up (so that there is no burr) and sawed with a jigsaw, a hacksaw or a hand-held circular saw.
2. If you started the first row with a whole board, the second must be started with half. Put a styling scheme next to you - this will make it easier to maintain the required proportions.
3. The last row often needs to be cut to width. Pay close attention to which part you cut off - the part on which the thorn is present should remain.

Cutting the laminated panel to the desired size

1. When finishing the threshold, cut the boards near the jambs not evenly, but in an arc, maintaining the required gap of 10-15 mm, so that under door trim there was no hole left

.

If the geometry in the room is ideal, there will be no difficulties when laying the laminate. If there are distortions, the boards will have to be cut.

Types of laminate locks

As mentioned above, the nuances in the laminate laying technology are determined by the type of locks on the laminate. Locks on modern market are presented in two varieties - "click" (click) and "lock" (lock). It is difficult to get confused - a system is registered on all packs, and almost everywhere there are pictograms explaining the principle of connection.

• If you are using laminate with click locks, it is best to assemble them one by one.

First, the side locks are connected, after which the longitudinal ones. Each new board is brought to the already installed at an angle of 45 degrees, the tenon is inserted into the groove and knocked out back side palms, after which the board can be lowered to the floor - this is how the entire first row fits. We begin to install the second row in the same way - the first board is brought to the installed one with a longitudinal groove and goes down. Subsequent boards are first connected with a side lock, then a longitudinal one. All boards snap into place with a little effort - sometimes you need to tap them with the palm of your hand.

Illustration of laying a laminate with a "Click" lock

See the video for laying the laminate with click zakmok:

• Laying of laminate with lock locks is carried out according to a different scheme - for installation you need a lightweight rubber hammer(mallet).

First, the boards must be laid out on the floor, pushing the spikes as close to the groove as possible: on the other side, the laminate trimming should be tapped with a hammer so that the boards are connected (a laminate trim is necessary so that when tapping with a mallet, the floor covering itself should not be damaged). In this case, it is more convenient to collect individual rows and then connect them.

Illustration of laying laminate with lock "Lock"

See the video for laying laminate flooring with lock locks:

Helpful advice! If you want to make the floor practically airtight, use special glue to coat the spikes of the floor elements to be laid. The glue retains its properties for ten minutes, therefore it is applied just before installation. But remember, the use of glue makes the floor almost monolithic, and if one laminate board is damaged, it will not be possible to replace the element.

Can a flooring be inexpensive, reliable and easy to install? There is a material that combines these incompatible properties. This is a laminate floor. Therefore, it is the most popular among other types of coatings. In order to lay the laminate with your own hands, you need to know the features of the material and the subtleties of working with it, so that the service life is as long as possible.

The main question that arises when choosing a floor covering is, is it possible to do it yourself? Yes, and very easy! You just need to know technological features... We will show you how to lay your own laminate flooring with step by step instructions. You will be able to carry out the assembly yourself without resorting to expensive services of professional craftsmen. Our detailed article will acquaint you with all the secrets and features of laying this flooring.

Buying laminate

Before buying a laminate flooring, you should familiarize yourself with the parameters that affect its quality and cost. It happens that laminate flooring of the same quality and characteristics differs significantly in price. This is because some manufacturers include brand markups and marketing gimmicks in their prices.

So what to look for? Laminate flooring differs in classes, 21-23, 31-33, and thickness, from 4 to 12 mm. The optimum thickness of this floor covering should be appropriate for the type of room in which it is intended to be installed. The class of the laminate is indicated by two numbers, where the first indicates the type of room, and the second is the coefficient of wear resistance, which implies shock resistance and moisture resistance. For example, if a laminate of minimum thickness and light load is suitable for a bedroom, then it is better to choose a higher class for the kitchen.

For a visual understanding, consider the classes in more detail:

The table shows:

• classes 21, 22, 23 are intended for household use, and 31, 32, 33 - commercial use;
• the greater the thickness, the higher the load level.

The class of the laminate affects its cost... Therefore, the choice of increased thickness for home use not always justified. Yes, class 33 has maximum moisture resistance, wear resistance and shockproof properties. But its main purpose is public places with high traffic, and for the same kitchen in the house, a 23rd class laminate will perfectly serve.

There is also such a nuance as a manufacturer's warranty. Manufacturer's warranty period may vary from 15 to 30 years old... Sellers can cite this parameter as a strong argument in favor of higher cost coverage. Do not flatter yourself. The plant guarantees the service life of the coating, the installation of which was carried out by certified craftsmen.

What kind of flooring can the laminate be laid on?

The basis can be any previous coating - cement, tile, wood, linoleum. It is only necessary that this surface is firm and leveled. Therefore, you must first make sure that it is flat enough. Then you can start assembling the laminate. A deviation of 1 or 2 mm is permissible, no more. Only if this condition is met, the board will not bend, but will lie flat and tight. If the difference is greater, cracking or breakage of the laminate board is possible. Check if there is a deviation using a rule or profile.

Important: laying the laminate flooring is possible only on a clean, leveled base without cracks, irregularities and other defects.

Laying on concrete floor

It is best to lay the laminate flooring on a concrete floor. A self-leveling base is perfect. If there are irregularities on the concrete floor that exceed the permitted standards, they must be leveled. In the case of a cement floor, everything is easy - just fill in a special screed. Concrete is therefore considered the best base for flooring.

If the concrete floor is level and clean need to lay a backing... What are the substrates for the laminate floor:

• foamed polyethylene, budget option;
• expanded polystyrene;
• durable cork material;
• multilayer substrates made of different materials specially designed to perform this function.

If there is a need to level the base, it must first be prepared for pouring with a self-leveling mixture - cleaned and primed. The thickness of the first poured layer must be at least 10 mm. When the surface is dry, re-primer and another coat. It is better to close the room for a day or two in order to avoid the appearance of defects on the surface of the screed.

The floorboard should be laid after the mortar has reached at least 50% of its strength. I would like to note that the screed dries completely in 70-80 days. You can not wait 100% dry if you use plastic wrap under the substrate.

After reading the entire material, you will know how to lay your own laminate flooring on a concrete floor.

Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor

One of the frequently asked questions: can laminate flooring be laid on a wooden floor? In general, this is risky. Especially if the wood flooring is old. According to technological standards, it would be more correct to remove it, then replacing it with a full-fledged concrete base. In this case, you will have to do everything necessary work for bedding, thermal insulation, preparation of a reinforcing belt. Only then can you do concrete screed... When the mixture has hardened, you can start laying the laminate panels.

Until the filling is done, there is the possibility of installing a floor heating system. Is it possible to lay laminate flooring on warm floors? Yes, if used special view laminate boards. It does not deteriorate from heat.

Complete replacement of the old wood covering with concrete is a very costly undertaking, both in cost and in time. Therefore, they usually prepare wooden surface to the installation of laminate flooring without replacement. Unless, of course, the floor is quite old. If the logs with boards are damaged, it is better to re-install them or still make a screed.

Minuses wood covering as a basis:

• parts can "walk" in height;
• there is a high probability of squeaking when walking;
• lags dry up.

No need to lay laminate flooring on a squeaky base. We need to find and fix the loose planks. They can be additionally screwed on or nailed down.

Preliminary preparation of a wooden base begins with cutting off excess pieces that protrude above the surface. The cracks must be putty.

Before laying the laminate flooring on the wood floor, it is necessary to lay the leveling material on it. Usually plywood is used for this. The optimum plywood sheet thickness for leveling is 10-12 mm. Plywood sheets are screwed on with self-tapping screws. If there are more differences than permissible, you will need slats of different thicknesses, already for leveling the plywood.

It will be better if the joints of the plywood sheets do not coincide at the corners. So the load on them will be evenly distributed. Yet you can not fit sheets close... Wood has the ability to change. Temperature, air humidity affect the condition of the tree. Therefore, there must be small gaps between the plywood sheets. They are needed to avoid distortions, if the tree begins to "move" - ​​to dry out or expand.

If the wooden floor has not been damaged, and the plywood sheets are laid flat, such a base under the laminate will last a long time.

Laying on linoleum

In many apartments, linoleum is laid on the floor. And when it comes time to change the flooring, a completely reasonable question arises: is it possible to lay laminate flooring on linoleum. Usually there are no contraindications to this. There is even some positive point... Linoleum provides additional sound insulation.

But there are times when not worth using linoleum as a base:

1. Uneven floor. If there are pits, swellings, large swings, it is better to remove the linoleum and pay attention to alignment.
2. The cover is very old. Linoleum that has begun to collapse will swell. This can ruin the laminate flooring, not to mention the aesthetics.
3. Linoleum of increased softness is undesirable as a base. This is fraught with the appearance of squeaks on the laminate when walking.

Laminate underlay

On the prepared base, leveled and cleaned, the underlay must first be laid. The main role it performs is to protect the laminate joints from destructive effects. external load... This is achieved by cushioning steps across the floor and redistributing pressure on it.

The substrate also has additional properties:

• hides small irregularities of acceptable sizes;
• drowns out the noise;
• insulates.

Substrate types

Foamed polyethylene. This is the most affordable type. Therefore, it is very popular. The advantages include increased moisture resistance and low cost... The polyethylene foam backing is produced in rolls, which makes it easier to work with. The low price justifies its obvious disadvantages: low thermal conductivity, sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, lack of sound insulation.

Polyethylene foam short-lived. It quickly loses its shape. The level of damping, or depreciation, in other words, decreases over time. Because of this, the locks will quickly loosen. In short, expanded polyethylene will significantly shorten the life of your laminate floor. Therefore, it is advisable to use it only for a cheap coating with a comparable service life.

Important: The polyethylene foam backing is only suitable for cheap laminate flooring.

Expanded polystyrene... This type of substrate is average in cost and quality. Expanded polystyrene has the ability to hold its shape well and drown out noise. The surface of the substrate has a high density, therefore it smoothes out small irregularities well. At a cost, expanded polystyrene is more expensive than polyethylene, but more affordable than a cork backing. Release form - plates and rolls. Due to the reasonable cost combined with good properties this material is used more often than others. The only argument against is the impossibility of laying on a warm floor.

It is recommended as a substrate if there is a floor heating system. Provides the best substrate properties. For the price - a little cheaper than cork. The properties of the substrate directly affect the life of the laminate. Therefore, buying a good underlay for expensive laminate flooring is a worthwhile investment.

Important: for underfloor heating, a foil-coated polyurethane laminate underlay is suitable.

It is made from natural cork chips. Release form - rolls. This is probably the best underlay for flooring. Unconditional advantages: durability, resistance to stress, high thermal insulation properties, good noise insulation... There are also downsides. Cork backing does not like heat and moisture. In addition, it must be laid on a perfectly flat surface due to its low leveling ability. The joints during installation must be glued with tape so that there are no cracks.

The type of premises where the cork can be used is living rooms, without underfloor heating, where low or normal humidity and there is no risk for the cover to be flooded with water. Despite its excellent properties, natural cork laminate underlays are rarely used. This is due to the high price tag.

Bituminous cork on cellulose... The cost is close to cork. Use with underfloor heating system is acceptable.

Important: the best and, at the same time, the most expensive substrate is natural cork. But it is not suitable for underfloor heating.

In addition to the above types of substrates, many new products appear on the market. Basically, these are little-known materials that have not passed any tests. Therefore, it is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They are usually indicated in the instructions on the package.

Do I need a plastic wrap under the laminate?

The main purpose of the plastic film under the substrate when laying the laminate is protection against moisture penetration from the inside. If there is a basement under the floor with high humidity, the use of film is a must. It is laid with an overlap under the substrate and glued with tape.

Laminate plastic film

There is also a risk of moisture from below when laying on an incompletely dry cement screed... This is a problem for almost everyone modern new buildings from monolithic concrete... The screed dries for more than 2 months. Many are not ready to wait so long. Even an expensive, increased wear resistance laminate deteriorates from moisture, begins to swell and creak. Therefore, it is desirable to use a polyethylene film.

Important: many laminate flooring manufacturers recommend always using plastic wrap for installation.

How to lay the underlay

Now let's look at how to properly lay the substrate under the laminate.

It is necessary to begin to lay out or roll out the forged material along the wall from which the installation will be carried out. As a result, the underlay should cover the entire length of the floor along desired wall... It is better not to cover the entire floor of the room with a substrate at once, so as not to walk on it. The next strip along the wall should be laid as needed.

The joints must be tightly combined and glued with tape. If there are small gaps between the joints, that's okay. Not allowed overlapping the underlay, so the laminate must adhere evenly to it.

To speed up the process, the edges of the substrate are sometimes fixed construction stapler... But it's better to spend a little more time gluing with tape than to listen to the not very pleasant sounds of rubbing the staples on the laminate board later.

Important: it is forbidden overlap the substrate.

DIY laminate laying tools

Before the start installation works for laying the laminate, you need to prepare all the necessary tools.

Instruments

1. Hammer and doboinik. They are needed to fit the laminate panels to each other. A block of wood is suitable as a doboinik. Do not knock directly on the panels, as the locks may be damaged.
2. Stationery knife. Needed to open packages.
3. Square, pencil, tape measure. Will be needed for marking.
4. Wedges. They will be needed to maintain the required gap between the wall and the coating.
5. Assembler. With the help of a special bracket, the boards of the last row are stacked.
6. Electric jigsaw. A jigsaw is needed for sawing boards. You can even cut any laminate hand saw, which is at hand. Small cuts are required - the board is sawn across.

How to properly cut laminate flooring

When cutting, the laminate must lie face up. This will prevent burrs from forming around the edges of the face.

To make the cutting line even, use metal guides - rulers and squares.

The last row requires special attention... Boards for this row almost always have to be sawed lengthwise.

Laying scheme

A frequently asked question is how to lay the laminate, along or across the room. There is no special rule in this regard. There is only one subtlety, the observance of which is recommended, and then for the visual effect. If you lay a laminate board perpendicular to the window opening, then the light will fall along the seams, and they will become less noticeable. Laminate flooring can also be laid across. In this case, the joints of the boards will simply be more visible. Diagonal styling looks very nice and visually expands the room. But this option is more complicated - skill is required, and there will be more waste.

In general, during installation, assembling the first and last rows is the most difficult. When laying the first one, it is necessary to observe the gaps along the wall. In the last row, it will take a long time to saw the planks and dock in a coated doorway in another room.

The main rule correct styling laminate flooring - offset seams. Each transverse joint should be 400 mm from the next. So the load will be optimally distributed over the entire surface, and the coating will be more wear-resistant.

The assembly of the next row always starts from the segment of the previous plank. Every even row should start with such an incomplete piece. This assembly option is considered traditional. It is called a "half-board offset" layout. Odd rows with this option always start with a whole panel.

Important: the distance between the transverse seams of adjacent panels must be at least 40 cm.

You can also lay the laminate board with a ladder. With this installation, the minimum permissible joint displacement must be observed. Usually this parameter is indicated on the packaging. The first row starts with a whole plank, the next with 1/3 of the full length, the third with 2/3. You will get a kind of ladder.

DIY laminate installation instructions

The very technology of installation of this floor covering is always the same. There are only peculiarities when connecting boards, depending on the type of castle.

Now let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to lay the laminate with your own hands.

1. First you need to prepare, vacuum and smooth the surface of the base.
2. When the surface is cleaned and leveled, if necessary, overlap with a polyethylene film. The edges are secured with adhesive tape.
3. Now the substrate is laid out or rolled out, in strips along the desired wall. The joints should fit tightly. Also sealed with duct tape.
4. Wedges are placed around the entire perimeter. Their thickness is 10 mm. They will create a small gap between the floor and the walls. This allows air to circulate around the floor covering. This will help prevent damage to the laminate when the room is extremely hot or humid.
5. The first row must be started from the side opposite the door. All panels of the first row should rest against the wedges of the indentation. Each panel is docked with the adjacent one.
6. The last plank of the row may be too long. It needs to be trimmed, taking into account the prepared indents.
7. The next strip of panels should be started with half or a third of the board, according to the diagram.
8. All rows are stacked sequentially.
9. The boards of the final row will need to be cut lengthwise. The main thing is not to cut off the thorn.

If the shape of the room is geometrically correct, there should be no difficulties during installation.

Important: Before installation, the laminate must adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room. Therefore, a couple of days before the intended installation, it is necessary to bring the packages with flooring into this room.

How to eliminate joints between multi-level coatings of adjacent rooms

We've looked at how to properly lay your laminate flooring. But there is one more important point.

Often, during installation, multilevel joints are formed between the laminate and the threshold or flooring of adjacent rooms. How to deal with them?

They are easily neutralized with sills. If you need a straight joint, a metal threshold will do. He is the most durable. For joints that are curved, there are flexible sills.

Types of thresholds:

• single-level- the most common, designed for joining laminate flooring in adjacent rooms;
• multilevel- used for joining the laminate floor with another surface, the level of which is different in height;

• unilateral- used for joining with doors;

• angular- for joining coverings at an inclination of 90 degrees.

Laying methods depending on the type of castle

Installation methods for laminate flooring depend on the type of lock on the board, Click or Lock. It is impossible to confuse them, because the manufacturer indicates on the packaging which compound is used.

Laying method with lock connection Click

This technology assumes assembly without a hammer. Boards are assembled sequentially. Each next panel must be brought to the already installed at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the spike must be inserted into the groove, pressing lightly. The castle got its name because of characteristic feature... When the cleat enters the groove, it makes a click. With this technology, the panels are first fastened with lateral joints, and then with longitudinal ones.

Laying with a lock connection Lock

Have this method there are differences from the previous one. The spikes are inserted into the groove on the side, and you cannot do without a mallet with a doboinik here. This technology assumes the assembly of rows first, and then their connection. Planks of the same row should be laid out evenly on the floor, parallel to each other.

So, we examined in detail how to lay the laminate with our own hands. There is one more point to clarify. Connection " tenon groove"Does not floor surface sealed. Water can still get between the seams. However, special glue can significantly reduce the likelihood of water getting inside the coating.

The glue is applied to the spikes just before assembly. But this method has a significant drawback. The resulting flooring will become monolithic. If necessary, replacing several boards will no longer work.