Prohibited floor designs in apartments with laminate, parquet and ceramic tiles. Do-it-yourself subfloor repair Wooden floor in a panel house

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How to repair subfloors

Any floor covering sooner or later reaches critical wear, and then it has to be changed. But it is not advisable to lay new material on an old, dilapidated base, since bumps and creaks will inevitably appear in this case, and repairs will soon have to be started again. How to restore the subfloor?

Draft floors serve to level the ceiling, are responsible for the sound insulation of the premises below, and on the first floors and in buildings with apartment heating They also perform a heat-insulating function.

When repairing a "secondary" one almost always has to restore or reconstruct the subfloor. At first glance, this work is not difficult, because there is no shortage of materials on the market, and many companies offer ready-made solutions, such as prefabricated screeds. However, making a choice is sometimes problematic, because you need to take into account the state of the ceiling, operational loads, ceiling heights, the qualifications of builders, the type of coverage and other factors. And besides, before starting work, it is necessary to obtain permission from the housing inspection authorities to change the floor structure. And the older the house, the more difficult it is to repair.

Repair of rough floors in Stalin-era houses

Houses built in the 1930s floors are mainly wooden beams (from a bar 150 x 200 mm or more). Between the beams, a rough boardwalk is arranged (from the side of the lower room it is plastered on shingles), roofing material is laid and sand or slag is covered. Leveling logs were laid along the beams, to which a flooring of 40 mm thick boards was nailed, which serves as the basis for the parquet. In the postwar years, more often used reinforced concrete beams T-shaped section, and the place of rolling and backfilling was occupied by slabs of lightweight concrete.

When installing a new floor in a house with beamed ceilings, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary survey. This work can be carried out by construction organizations that have a license for the preservation of cultural heritage sites and / or a certificate of approval from the CPO.

At the end of the examination, you must issue a conclusion, where the calculation will be presented bearing capacity overlapping (or the impossibility of its implementation is justified), conclusions, as well as methods of reconstruction. In the vast majority of cases, additional loading of beams is prohibited; in addition, it is necessary to exclude construction processes associated with the use of open fire, strong vibrations and moistening of the floor. For example, consider one of the possible practical solutions.

Having opened the floors, remove sand, slag and gasket layers. Then the waterproofing material is spread across the beams so that it wraps around each beam on three sides. It makes sense to use strong and durable products based on fiberglass and modified bitumen (Bireplast TPP, Hydrostekloizol TPP, Steklomast TPP, etc.) or polyvinyl chloride (for example, Sikaplan WP, Logicroof, Ecoplast). The joints of the strips are glued with mastic or (for PVC) welded with hot air. Mineral wool slabs, such as Light Butts, Acoustic Butts (Rockwool) or ISOVER SoundProtection (Saint-Gobain), with a thickness of 80 mm or more, are laid between the beams. The heat and sound insulating material should be covered with a layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing, which is best used as diffusion roofing membranes, such as Tyvek (DuPont), Optima (TechnoNIIOL), etc.

New logs can be made from dry antiseptic bars with a section of 50 x 70 mm or more; aluminum products will cost an order of magnitude more expensive (from 260 rubles per 1 linear meter), but they will increase the rigidity of the structure - the floor will sag less from loads and vibrate when walking. Logs are mounted in increments of no more than 500 mm, carefully aligned horizontally - double plastic wedges are suitable for this purpose.

If as floor covering plan to use laminate parquet board, block parquet or ceramic tiles, on top of the lag they arrange a continuous flooring with a thickness of 16 mm from one, and preferably two layers of waterproof plywood. At the same time, compensation gaps of 4-6 mm must be left between the sheets, as well as along the perimeter of the room.

Flooring under carpet or linoleum should be made of moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard (Quick Deck and its analogues); logs in this case are placed more often - in increments of no more than 400 mm, and the gap around the perimeter of the room is increased to 10 mm (the plates are mounted without gaps, gluing the joints with glue - PVA, latex, polyurethane).

A massive board with a thickness of 35 mm or more can be attached directly to the logs, significantly saving on the flooring device.

When installing the logs must be carefully aligned. For this purpose, type-setting wedges are used, as well as adjustable feet- plastic (a) or more reliable metal (b). Most modern coatings are laid on a solid base, which is easy to create using thick plywood (c, d) or other sheet materials.

When installed dry screeds Knauf spread out first polymer film and lay edge tape along the walls, which interrupts the transmission of impact and structural noise from the screed to the walls and vice versa (a, 6). After that, calibrated expanded clay gravel (c) is poured in and leveled with the help of beacons and a long rule with bubble level(G)

A solid base is mounted on top of the backfill from small-format KNAUF supersheets or special floor elements (d). The joints are glued with mastic and puttied with KNAUF-Fugen GV (e)

Parquet is expensive primarily because of the labor-intensive installation. Each die must be glued to plywood (a, b); for this purpose, it is better to use compositions based on MS polymers. Then the surface is ground twice (c) and impregnated with special oil (d)

Instead of plywood, moisture-resistant chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm or more is often used - laminated (a, c) and uncoated (6).
The joints of the long sides of the plates, even those provided with grooves and ridges, must be located on a support (lag)

Repair of rough floors in "Khrushchev"

In brick, panel and block five-story buildings built in the late 1950s - the first half of the 1960s, the ceilings are made of ribbed or round-hollow reinforced concrete slabs, and the draft floors are usually lag with sand backfill. The main layers of the floor cake are separated by roofing material or glassine.

Having dismantled the old foundation, it is possible to cover the ceiling with waterproofing material, lay new logs and fill the space between them with fine expanded clay gravel (the impact noise insulation will increase by 4-6 dB). The downside of the solution is that the logs will have to be fixed to the concrete with dowels, which will weaken the overlap.

Another (very popular) reconstruction option is to install a dry prefabricated screed, for example, based on complete systems from Knauf - OP 131 or OP 135, consisting of expanded clay backfill and moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets (or special floor elements made from GVL), as well as gaskets and sealing materials. The minimum thickness of such a screed is 40 mm. The design perfectly dampens impact noise (the increase in the own soundproofing ability of the floor will be at least 18 dB), weighs little (from 15 kg / m 2 and is quite affordable (from 600 rubles per 1 m 2, including installation). serve as the basis for most coatings, the exceptions are solid board and piece parquet.

To equip the base screed, closed with water, the mixture is distributed over the surface (a), leveled with a rule (b) and a grater (c). In this case, it is allowed to embed cables in a protective sleeve, as well as steel and polymer pipes

Repair of subfloors in a panel house of the 1970-90s

In houses with an increased number of storeys (9-17), built since the early 1970s, the floors are assembled from round-hollow reinforced concrete slabs 220 mm thick. The top can be filled concrete screed, but often builders laid panel parquet and laid linoleum directly on the ceiling, only somehow smoothing out level differences with mortar.

In most buildings, the floors are in a satisfactory condition, so it is permissible to arrange a wet floor screed. But the joints of the plates are not at all airtight, besides, concrete perfectly transmits impact noise, therefore, before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet, for which Akuflex Super, Shumanet-100 Hydro materials and their analogues are suitable.

If maximum differential the leveling layer is 20 mm (i.e. the required thickness of the leveling layer is 40 mm or less), the base layer can be made of cement-sand mortar without metal reinforcement. In wet rooms it does not hurt to add a water-repellent additive, for example, SS 92 (Ceresit) or Tiprom C ("Sazi").

With an estimated screed thickness of more than 40 mm, light concretes are used (say, expanded clay concrete, the density of which is 1.5-1.7 times lower than that of sand concrete) and reinforcement with a road mesh.

Along with wet ones, so-called semi-dry screeds from a doughy cement-sand mortar with reinforcing polypropylene fibers are increasingly being used. They harden quickly and are strong enough, but it is more difficult to level a thick and viscous mixture, so you have to top up with a rather thick (up to 20 mm) layer of liquid leveling agent, for example Vetonit 5000 (veber.vetonit) or CN 68 (Ceresit), or grind the surface with a special machine .

The final alignment must be done quickly, because the viability of the liquid solution does not exceed 2 hours.

Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare for the start of work: determine the maximum level difference (a) and install point plastic beacons (b).

The solution spreads well over the surface (c), but it has to be “helped” with a squeegee scraper and remove air bubbles with a spiked roller.

The final layer dries from two to seven days

Common Mistakes When Renovating a Subfloor

An attempt to level the ceiling with thin-layer materials (plywood with a thickness of k mm. Fiberboard, cardboard, etc.). Irregularities can be hidden only for a short time.

Unreliable fastening of the lag to the base, the use of leveling pads made of short-lived materials.

Improper use of waterproofing materials, for example, laying a polyethylene film over the log and insulation, which prevents the evaporation of moisture from the thickness of the structure.

Pouring a wet screed in a house with dilapidated ceilings or without a hydro-sound-insulating substrate.

Laying floor coverings on a dry cement-sand screed. If repairs need to be completed short time, you should choose quick-drying levelers - Vetonit 6000 (veber. vetonit), Express-Finish (Ivsil), etc.

Do-it-yourself screed repair

In an apartment purchased on the secondary housing market, a concrete screed made during the previous repair may be found under the flooring. Often its quality leaves much to be desired, or there is a frank marriage. It is difficult and expensive to dismantle a heavy structure, especially if it is reinforced with mesh. Defects have to be corrected. Narrow cracks are expanded, and then filled with polymer or cement-polymer repair compounds. In places of more serious faults, the screed must be strengthened with embedded spiral anchors. If at the walls the concrete lags behind the floor (which happens when the drying is improper), holes are drilled and a repair compound is injected into the cavity. Irregularities are smoothed out with a cement floor putty, such as Vetonit 4100 (weber.vetonil) or Horizont (Eunice), or adding a thin layer of a liquid self-leveling mixture.

Light ties

For very uneven floors, the required screed thickness may exceed 40 mm. In this case, lightweight concrete is used. The most accessible of them is expanded clay concrete, which is easy to prepare on site using a compact electric concrete mixer. The cost of 1 m 2 of expanded clay concrete screed 50 mm thick is 500-700 rubles. A monolith from a ready-made mixture with a light filler (for example, foam glass) will cost 2-2.5 times more.

Foam concrete screeds are almost one and a half times lighter, but the mortar for them is difficult to prepare on site, since specific components and / or equipment are required. It is easier to use dry mixes with polystyrene chips. Such concrete hardens relatively quickly and almost does not shrink.

SUB-FLOORS: COMPARISON BY PARAMETERS
Base type	Prefabricated wooden (logs + plywood or chipboard)	Prefabricated backfill (expanded clay gravel + GVLV or CSP)	Wet screed
Peel strength of the surface layer	High, usually more than 20 MPa	Low, less than 20 MPa	Medium or high, but only with the correct application of the leveling layer
Soundproofing	Satisfactory (reduction of impact noise by more than 10 dB) when using vibration damping mounts and laying soundproof mats between the joists	Good (more than 15 dB) even with minimum thickness 40 mm	Satisfactory or good when using vibration damping substrates
thermal insulation	Satisfactory when filling the space between the lags with basalt wool	Satisfactory (with a thickness of 50-60 mm) or good (more than 80 mm)	bad
Moisture resistance		Low. Cannot be used in wet areas	high

Beautiful, durable floors modern apartment- not a whim of the owner, but pressing need. And it does not matter in which house the housing is located: panel, brick, Stalin or Khrushchev. The floor also does not matter - even above the basement, even under the roof, the floors should be practical. repair technology and latest materials allow you to repair floors of any degree of deterioration, it is only important to know what types of floors and floor coverings are.

Floor types

Finishing flooring - only visible part. The most important thing is hidden under decorative materials. So, depending on the time of construction of the house and the material from which it is built, the floors are of two types: concrete and wood.

Concrete floors. This is enough solid foundation found in modern panel house, as well as on the first floor of an old wooden building, in Khrushchev and Stalin. The disadvantage of concrete is its severity, and if the proportions of the mixture are not observed, fragility. You need to know that in stalinkas or Khrushchevs, the concrete base crumbles due to natural aging and also requires replacement during major repairs.
Wooden floors or floors on logs are both on stationary and on movable logs (adjustable). Most often, this is a floor in Khrushchev, Stalin, a wooden house (barrack type), also floors on logs - one of the popular options for summer cottages.

Important! Draft floors in Stalinka or Khrushevka often have concrete base and wooden joists. So overhaul apartments includes the reconstruction of all layers.

Both floor options are suitable for the apartment. During operation, defects arise, which you can deal with with your own hands. As for the floor decorative coating, then the materials are presented in a large assortment: tiles, linoleum, mats, parquet, parquet board, laminate or solid wood - the richest choice. It all depends on the financial capabilities of the buyer and his ideas about the comfort of his own home.

Floor defects and troubleshooting methods

Types of concrete floor defects:

Abrasion;
Cracking;
chipped;
subsidence.

In case of impossibility of cosmetic repairs, the technology of which involves grinding or partial filling of the floor, a capital approach to resolving the issue is necessary. Replacement or complete repair of the floor in the apartment is done by hand or through hired specialists. The service is evaluated based on the volume and complexity of the work. But if you live on the first floor in a panel house or Khrushchev, you bought necessary materials, it is worth viewing the photo and doing a major overhaul with your own hands.

Concrete base repair

Concrete floors in Khrushchev, Stalinka or floor slabs in prefabricated houses do not shine with evenness. And no matter what floor, the technology for restoring the base is approximately the same everywhere. The main defects are easy and practical to restore with a new screed. For its production, you do not need to have special skills, because screed materials are already sold in dry form. It is enough to dilute the mixture with liquid, and you will get a composition that minimizes effort.

It's important to know! In order for the dry mixture to be brought to readiness in the correct proportions, be sure to see the instructions on the package. No need to invent your own rules, otherwise your screed will soon need to be replaced.

The scheme of the process is quite simple and it doesn’t matter if the floors are being repaired in Stalinka, Khrushchev or a screed is being poured on the first floor of a wooden house:

Cover the base with cellophane to avoid leaks;
Lay the roll material overlapping, the edges overlap by at least 15 cm;
The wall allowance is also up to 15-17 cm;
Fasten the edges of the strips along the joint.

Now the screed is poured. If this happens in Khrushchev, where the ceilings are weak or the fill area is large, the space is divided into sectors separated by guides. And now each sector is poured separately, and then the guides must be removed or left in the screed body.

After the mass has dried, you can proceed to the next stages of repair: laying a heat and sound insulator. The video shows options for solving the problem, in particular, the most inexpensive and available material- expanded clay. Excellent performance characteristics show other fillers - the choice is yours. But if the house has weak floors, you do not need to burden the floors with an additional load.

Important! Taking mineral wool for insulation, it is necessary to cover it with waterproofing. Otherwise, the price of such a heater is worthless, since it does not have water-repellent properties.

Look at the photo, video tutorials, where do-it-yourself overhaul of the concrete base is carried out. This will help you save a lot of money. Professionals charge for a similar service from $ 25 per m². But how it will be done - there are no guarantees.

After the screed layer has dried, any floor covering can be laid. This is a plus of concrete floors - carpet fits perfectly on them, wood slabs, array or system of warm floors.

Floor repair by joists

Types of defects in the wooden floor on the logs:

creaking floorboards;
loosening of old boards;
cracks;
displacement of floorboards;
floor failure;
log decay.

Repairing the floor along the logs in the house is a problem that requires a careful approach. If this is the first floor in Khrushchev or Stalin, it will be easier to choose options for restoring the floor, any other floor immediately means a lot of nuances:

it is necessary to agree with the neighbors, because your floor is their ceiling and few people like to hear knocks above them and, perhaps, live for a while in full audibility;
it is impossible to completely replace the lag, the elements can be load-bearing;
in case of any flaw, restoration and restoration of the neighbors' apartment will be added to the repair of your floor.

Therefore, before starting a major floor repair on your floor, evaluate the damage and your options. Remember that the decision to do serious work is more practical when 55-60% of the floor is worn out, everything else is available for cosmetic repairs. By the way, professionals classify the lag option as lighter and more optimal because there is no need to fill in the screed and wait for it to dry. But this is only if the base is missing and its replacement is not needed! V otherwise, will have to try.

And now about how to get rid of floor defects in a house where there are still structures with lags:

the cracks are puttied, filled with mortar, then the boards need to be sanded and any coating can be laid;
with a creak, the reason is eliminated - if the lags are loosened, they are shot, with a loose board, they are fixed with self-tapping screws.

All these simple tasks are done by hand and do not require the call of specialists. Another thing is a major overhaul, when a new concrete pad is poured, filler is poured in and the log needs to be replaced. As a rule, on any floor, except for the lower one, such repairs take place.

Dismantling of old floors, skirting boards;
Assessment of the state of the lag, preparation of material for the replacement of defective supports;
Measurement of the filler, purchase if necessary.

Now you need to take out all the filler, see the subfloor and refill if necessary. It will not be possible to completely replace the base, since it is residential an old house. When adding the mixture, pay attention to the strength of the bearing supports; in an old house, this may cause problems. In extreme cases, it is easier to add a thicker layer of expanded clay or lay mineral wool as additional noise and sound insulation. Laid materials must be completely protected from moisture, fire and decay.

Now you need to do all the steps in reverse order:

Add insulation;
Fill new logs (the distance between the supports is not more than 60 cm, the height of the timber is 65-70 mm);
Lay the planks on the logs and fix them.

If necessary, materials such as plywood, chipboard, laminate are used. By the way, plywood sheets are not bad to produce redecorating. Loose boards will stop "playing", and you will get good repair at home with your own hands special costs. How to nail plywood is shown in the photo.

Important! Any floor covering fits perfectly on the floor with lags: parquet, solid wood, parquet board, linoleum or something else.

The cost of services from professionals for replacing the floor on logs starts from $ 20-25 per m². But in order not to fall into the neighbors, not to make enemies with inept repairs, it is worth paying a large amount.

Updating or replacing an old, worn floor in an apartment is one of the most time-consuming operations in the overall renovation process. Just imagining all the scale and cost of the future, many homeowners very often refuse to repair the floors, limiting themselves only to changing the decorative coating on them. But time takes its toll, and sooner or later the moment comes when it becomes simply impossible to delay such work.

In this case, it is not at all necessary to immediately look for a team of craftsmen - especially since in such a service sector one can often meet frank "hacks". As a result, everything can result in a completely unnecessary waste of time, nerves and money with a low-quality result. Why not try doing it yourself? If the owner has certain skills in general construction work, and if he does it in the apartment with his own hands in stages, in compliance with the recommended technological rules, then everything should work out!

The stages of repair, of course, depend on the type of floors, their initial condition, the purpose of the premises in which the work is being carried out, and the type of finish. In this publication, several of the most common options will be considered.

The initial stage is to decide on the scope of work

Since the owner of the apartment is thinking about repairing the floor, then, most likely, there are motivating reasons for this, unless, of course, this is a cosmetic replacement of the coating due to another whim of the wife. Therefore, first you need to identify and clearly formulate problems - the whole scale of further preparatory and repair work will depend on this.

This publication is about a city apartment, and in the vast majority multi-storey buildings any floor has a base in the form of a reinforced concrete floor slab. But here the further design can already differ significantly. The floor can be arranged on logs fixed to the base, or laid directly on a concrete screed.

The wooden floor on the logs usually begins to show its defects with a creak, instability of the coating - the floorboards “play” underfoot, the appearance bad smell rot, formation and gradual expansion of cracks. Even worse, if suddenly one of the boards cracks or its fragment falls down.

The dilapidated wooden floor reminds of itself with a creak and "playing" boards

The old screed, on which the coating is laid, from “old age” can also begin to present surprises, especially if it was once filled with poor quality. So, the appearance of obvious squeaks and rustling from sand or small pebbles, the “floundering” of the screed, the appearance of washed out surface areas, the violation of the evenness of the finish coating, and sometimes the obvious instability of the whole large fragment are also not excluded.

In any case, if there are obvious defects, remove the old coating.

Removing the old coating

All furniture will need to be removed from the room, completely freeing it for further work. If repairs are not carried out in the entire apartment at once, but from room to room, it will be necessary to provide protection against the spread of dust, for example, by covering the entrance with a curtain made of thick polyethylene film or a frequently dampened cloth, and covering the gap under the door with a wet rag roller. True, the full effectiveness of such a method is very doubtful, and the best way nevertheless - to provide for the resettlement of family members for the duration of the repair. However, a dust barrier is necessary in any case.
Next, the old baseboards are removed. Do this carefully so as not to damage the bottom of the walls to which they are attached. If the plinths are supposed to be used further, then they are numbered according to their location and temporarily removed.

If someone has not come across this case before, then we can remind you that the skirting boards are attached to the wall, and not to the floor surface, that is, you need to correctly direct the lever force. It will be easier if the skirting boards are fixed on self-tapping screws or on special brackets.

The next step is actually removing the old coating. There are several options here:

A. If the floor is covered with some kind of rolled material, then it is hooked on one of the sides and they try to carefully roll it into a roll - this will make it easier to take it out. In the event that the coating (for example, linoleum or carpet) was once laid without glue, directly on a concrete screed, this will not be difficult to do. You can first, to facilitate the action, make parallel cuts with a sharp construction knife, thereby dividing the entire canvas into several narrower tapes.

But often there are situations in which the old material departs along with the layers of the exfoliated screed. Then you will have to remove it fragmentarily and immediately take it out of the room along with pieces of concrete so that this construction debris does not interfere further work.

It happens that once high-quality glued linoleum, when removed, begins to delaminate itself, leaving dried layers on the screed. In this case, you will have to work with a scraper (spatula), warming up these areas with a building hair dryer or moistening the old adhesive layer with a solution detergent for floors.

B. More trouble can deliver the old "playing" parquet. If it is of no value, then its dies are sequentially removed, immediately loaded into bags, which are taken out as they are filled. If once the parquet was glued to bituminous mastic or glue on organic basis, then removing individual dies or even entire fragments can be difficult. The "recipe" is the same - a scraper, a chisel and heating with a hair dryer.

V. To remove the old tile, it is most convenient to use a puncher switched to chiseling mode with a chisel-shovel installed. If such a tool is not available, then everything is done manually, using a hammer and chisel.

G. When stripping a plank floor, the hardest part is probably picking up and separating the first floorboard. Further, when it will be possible to freely start the lever, the work will go faster. For work, you will need a nail puller with a long lever handle, a hammer, and pliers. You need to try to take out the nails carefully, without destroying the boards, since, quite possibly, this material will still serve for a new flooring after repairs or for making logs.

If the old coating was fastened with screws (self-tapping screws), then you can try to dismantle it with a screwdriver.

Well, if the plank flooring is no longer of any value, then it will be most convenient to make cuts using a manual vertical circular (carefully and prudently so as not to hook the concrete base, not damage the logs and not “run into” a nail). After such a separation of long floorboards, their removal will be an easy task.

Is it worth it to remove the entire plank flooring if obvious defects were observed only in certain areas, and there are no plans to replace it with a different type of surface finish? Of course, you can limit yourself to only partial repairs - the replacement of worn or deteriorated parts. But experts unanimously advise - shoot everything completely. There is no guarantee that if the decay process manifested itself in one area of the floor, then it will not show itself in another in a year, or even earlier. It will be cheaper to renew the base and re-lay the floor, even using old material, than to return to such repairs again after a short period.

Foundation audit

After the floor covering is removed, it is necessary to carefully examine the base.

If logs remain on the floor, and it is planned to re-lay the boardwalk, then you should carefully check the condition of these load-bearing elements and the supports on which they are installed. Log beams should not have areas of decomposition, rottenness, fungus damage - such parts are subject to mandatory replacement. Each lag is checked under load - it should not hang out, bend, creak, etc. If necessary, update the linings that hold the guide at the desired height.

If the state of the lag does not cause concern, then after a thorough cleaning in the spaces between them it will be possible to lay a new coating. Perhaps most old floorboards are fine for this. After such a bulkhead, the floor will stop creaking and gain the necessary stability. If required, thermal insulation material can be laid between the lags, which will also take on the role of a sound insulator.

However, on an old wooden floor, very often the logs themselves are quite worn out, and their repair is impossible or does not guarantee durability. In this case, they will have to be dismantled in order to subsequently install new ones. When removing the lag, remember that they can be firmly attached to the base base. It is necessary to exercise accuracy and discretion in order to prevent a strong destruction of the concrete base and not add unnecessary worries to restore it.

After removing the lag, the most thorough cleaning of the base of the floor is carried out so that you can proceed to the next steps.

In the event that, after removing the old topcoat, a concrete screed opens under it, it is most carefully examined. It must be assumed that the concrete is strong in itself, and repair of such a surface is optional.

The screed must be tapped - this will help to reveal areas of its delamination, which must be removed to a “healthy” base. The surface is checked for the presence of loose places, those where, due to a violation of the pouring technology, the solution did not gain strength or was eroded due to moisture. These areas also need to be cleaned.

It should not be left on the surface of large cracks - from here the process of destructuring of the base may continue. Slots and cracks lie cutting in breadth and depth of at least 10 - 15 mm, for subsequent repair.

Sometimes, after removing unstable sections of concrete, a generally unsightly picture opens up, such as, for example, as shown in the photograph. However, it is quite repairable.

After removing defective areas and cutting cracks, a thorough cleaning is carried out. It is best to use a powerful construction vacuum cleaner in this matter - by other means it is extremely difficult to clean the surface and the resulting cavities from small debris and dust.

Sometimes you have to resort to the complete dismantling of the entire screed to the floor slab. This can be caused by the extremely low quality of the coating, which is impractical to repair, but it is better to refill completely. Often, mold or fungus finds a “shelter” in a screed in damp rooms. Another option is when the floors require additional insulation and sound insulation, and the height of the ceilings and the dimensions of the doorways in the apartment will not allow raising the level of coverage (taking into account the thermal insulation layer and finishing). The same measure is resorted to when it is planned to make a wooden floor on logs instead of thin coatings.

A difficult, but often simply necessary operation is the complete removal of the old screed

Of course, the process of completely dismantling the screed using a jacking tool is very tedious, noisy and dusty, but no other way has yet been invented. This requires some care not to damage concrete slab overlap. The screed is cut off in separate pieces, which are immediately raked to the side with a shovel and packed in bags for export. It is not recommended to use even small fragments as a material for filling a new solution, since they will not enhance, but, on the contrary, worsen the quality.

After removing the old screed, a thorough cleaning of the surface is carried out - as described above.

Base surface repair

What was the floor was not planned in the future to the flooring, the concrete base under it must be put in order. So, poorly sealed seams between floor slabs, cracks along the perimeter of walls, potholes or cavities, etc. can be exposed.

Such repairs are necessary even if it is planned to fill in a new one. The solution may not penetrate into these flaws, there will be air cavities that reduce the solidity of the coating and become the starting point for the destruction of the screed. This is all the more important and mandatory if the screed is poured onto separating layer or at waterproofing film(floating screed).

All surface defects must be thoroughly cleaned, if necessary (for example, slab joints) cut, and then remove even the smallest crumbs and dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The next step is to surface thoroughly, at least twice, which is designed specifically for concrete.

Such treatment will significantly strengthen the surface, which is especially important when it is loose, increase the hydrophobic qualities, reduce the absorbency of concrete, and improve adhesion with repair compounds. They proceed to further work after the last applied layer of soil is completely absorbed and dried.

As a repair composition, you can use a conventional cement-sand mortar. However, it dries and gains the necessary strength for a long time, and it is better not to spare money for special repair compounds, also on a cement or epoxy basis.

The primed imperfections of the surfaces are filled as densely as possible with a repair compound, compared with the general level of the floor. To do this, you can use a regular spatula. Some repair compounds are sold in plastic tubes, and it will be more convenient to apply them using a construction syringe or a special “gun”.

If the defect is large in volume, then in some cases you can resort to filling it mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and then this area is brought to the general surface level with a repair staff.

Repair "patches" are given time to completely solidify, in accordance with their instructions, after which you can trim the surface with sandpaper wrapped on a bar. Then it is recommended to walk again over the entire surface with a primer. If an increased absorption of the composition is noted at the repair sites, then primed twice in these areas.

After the soil has dried, the surface can be considered ready for further work.

Leveling screed

If the old screed or wooden floor was removed and the floor slab opened, then most likely its level is very far from the horizontal. The house shrunk over time, and even during its construction many years ago, builders could not really care about the strictly adjusted level of floors. So, what kind of floor was not planned to be done further, it is recommended to strengthen the base and at the same time level it with a screed. The thickness of this poured layer must be at least 30 mm at its highest point.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the magnitude of the difference, that is, to identify the peak, highest and lowest points of the surface and “break through” the zero level line. A system of beacons will be set at this mark.

To fill the screed, you can use the usual cement-sand mortar, which is prepared right at the place of work. Usually they proceed from the proportion of three parts of sand to one of M-400 cement - this ratio gives an optimal surface in terms of strength and wear resistance, on which any of them can then be mounted. existing coatings gender.

Those novice builders who do not want to get involved in self-proportioning can be recommended to use ready-made building dry mixes. Their composition is already optimized for the screed, and it remains only to properly close it with water, in accordance with the attached instructions.

How many materials will be needed in one case or another? It all depends on the level of height difference at the extreme points, the planned minimum thickness of the screed, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, and the characteristics of the solution.

Usually packaged dry building mixtures their normalized consumption is indicated in kilograms per 1 square meter area to be poured with a layer thickness of 10 mm. Based on this, it is possible, by simple calculations, to determine the required amount of material.

To make it easier for readers, a calculator is provided that allows you to quickly and accurately make such calculations.

elasticity;
low thermal conductivity;
durability.

Soundproofing the floor: getting rid of unnecessary noise and anxiety with your own hands

Soundproofing the floor, walls and even the ceiling is relevant for those people who suffer from unbearably noisy or musically gifted neighbors. Yes, and when a child is born in the house, in order not to create problems and inconveniences for themselves, the residents from below have to soundproof the floor in their own home. In some cases, the problem unpleasant sounds does not arise due to the human factor: it’s just that the floors physically wear out and even just walking on it creates noise throughout the apartment. A properly noise-free floor absorbs not only sounds from the outside, but also those that are created directly in an apartment or a private house.

To solve the problems associated with “noisy floors”, the so-called “floating flooring” technology is most often used. It got its name because of the design features: screed, parquet or laminate do not come into contact with the walls. If this condition is not met, then as a result, bridges will appear between the floor covering and the wall, transmitting sound. V currently, materials of different quality, composition and efficiency are used for soundproofing the floor, but most often a special substrate is used. It is laid in a layer up to 20 mm thick, depending on the type of floor.

The internal structure of the floor pie with laid soundproofing

Attention! This underlay reduces the level of airborne and impact sound, and its sound insulation coefficient is -21 dB. For achievement maximum effect often soundproof walls and ceilings, but we'll talk about that another time.

Sound insulation of the floor, in some cases, is based on the use of special underfloor slabs, when laying which it is necessary to create an air gap of up to 10 mm between the wall and the edge of the tile. To set the required gap, you can use the remains of the floor slabs, which, after installation and fixing, are safely removed without violating the structure. A gap of up to 2 mm is also required between the plates, and the plates themselves are fixed to the floor base using special glue or staples / nails.

Soundproofing is sometimes performed even when installing a warm floor system

The soundproofing of the floor in a panel house does not tolerate mistakes, since any error significantly reduces the effectiveness of the soundproofing layer. In the course of work it is NOT necessary:

create a snug fit of the plinth to the floor (only to the wall);
hammer nails into beams through floorboards;
disrupt the process of laying the substrate;
allow clumping of soundproofing material.

Important! The underlayment is laid at an angle of 45° relative to the connecting joints of the floor covering. This eliminates the coincidence of the joints of the laminate (parquet) and soundproofing material.

Ideally, floor soundproofing involves a combination of hard materials that reflect the sound wave and materials with a high sound absorption coefficient (mineral wool).

But here, too, it is not without its drawbacks: due to the use of a combined substrate, the floor height will increase by 50 mm, which is more than noticeable for small apartments.

Note! There is a "natural" soundproofing alternative to underlayment - softwood soundproofing. It is much thinner than the combined substrates, but the effect is several times better.

The ecowool-based sound insulator has all the necessary qualities and, moreover, is environmentally friendly.

Such a substrate is made of high-quality needles, and therefore is an environmentally friendly product. Its main parameters:

high mechanical strength;
resistance to stretching and compression;
elasticity;
low thermal conductivity;
durability.

By the way! There are also many other artificial substitutes, which are based on foamed foam. Such substrates are much cheaper than wood counterparts, but they cope with their “duties” just as well. Additional thermal insulation is provided by special foil substrates that reflect heat.

Before soundproofing the floor, it is necessary to measure the area of the room in which the work will be carried out. This will help to avoid wasting time on additional purchase of the substrate. Do not lay the substrate in several layers, as this will increase not only sound but also thermal insulation. When choosing a substrate, it is worth starting from the quality of the base and the type of future flooring. A discrepancy in the parameters can lead to a low efficiency of the insulating layer, and, in fact, to the ineffectiveness of all the work done. The key to success is calm and measured work, and the help of an extra pair of hands will always come in handy.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor of the floor slab from the basement

floor insulation with foam under the screed

As you know, the floor is practically the only surface with which people are constantly in contact (walking barefoot or in shoes), so warming the floor of the first floor will be the number one task for owners of apartments located on the ground floor of a multi-storey building and private owners. In this regard, certain requirements are imposed on surfaces: for example, the difference in temperature values on the floor surface and in the room should not exceed two degrees. If this value is not maintained, then it is necessary to resort to warming - this difference is especially “sharply” felt in the off-season and winter months.

To insulate floors. usually in the ceilings between the first floor and the basement, an additional layer of thermal insulation is laid. According to the laws of heat transfer, heat losses flow from top to bottom through the floors into the underground (multi-storey buildings with unheated basements are considered).

In this case, in addition to heat loss, there is also condensation of water vapor released from the warm air in the premises. This has a bad effect on the state of the insulation material, which absorbs all the moisture. In order to prevent excessive moisture, one can either use a moisture-resistant material as thermal insulation, or (and this is recommended in all cases) lay an additional vapor barrier layer before thermal insulation. As a vapor barrier layer, you can use a conventional polyethylene film with a thickness of 150 microns.

By the way, if different floor coverings have different odds heat absorption: the concrete floor is colder than the parquet - and this is logical, since the concrete "absorbs" heat more actively, unlike the wooden one. That is why experts advise using those floor coverings that have a low rate of heat absorption - wood, parquet, chipboard, linoleum, polymer tiles Otherwise, the floor will be cold all the time.

When your apartment is located on the first floor of a multi-storey residential building, and below there is a technical underground (basement) with access to it.

In this case, you can insulate your floor from the side of the basement - with ordinary foam, gluing it to a special adhesive solution or a cement mortar with glue (as on a tile). The gaps between the foam sheets can be foamed with construction foam.

The disadvantage of this method is the possible rejection by your neighbors of your enthusiasm for floor insulation. And if it’s easier to insulate the entire floor of your section with foam plastic, then it will be much more difficult to calculate the area of \u200b\u200byour apartment and its location (“basement, bottom view”). In this case, you will have to arm yourself with a house plan and a tape measure, in order to later mark “your” territory for insulation.

When it is not possible to insulate the floor from the technical underground.

Here they usually proceed as follows: lags are arranged, plywood or boards are laid between them, and foam sheets are already laid on them. It is also a fairly simple method of warming, but it has its drawbacks. One of them is to reduce the height of the ceilings (for panel houses, where insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor is required).

For apartments with wooden floors the situation is somewhat simpler: the floors are dismantled (if possible, old or rotten log boards are replaced with new ones), foam sheets are laid between the logs. In this case, the room will not "lose" its size.

When it is not possible to insulate the floors with foam.

Then you have to use expanded clay insulation - here it is necessary to arrange a cement screed with a layer thickness of at least 9 cm. The disadvantage of this method is a significant decrease in the height of the ceiling in the room, since it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the floor covering with hydro- and heat-insulating layers. However, there are also advantages here: for example, in cement screed with the use of expanded clay, you can arrange warm floors - electric or water.

Floor insulation along the lags

If you have your own house, consisting of two floors, or even an ordinary cottage, then floor insulation is still necessary - no matter if there is a basement there or not. And here, since you are the owner in your house, you can arrange warm floors (of course, to the extent of your financial capabilities).

In this case, they are insulated even at the stage of subfloor installation. And, according to many builders, the best modern heat-insulating material is extruded polystyrene foam, which has good thermal insulation characteristics, is moisture resistant, withstands mechanical stress. In addition, expanded polystyrene will become the best heat-insulating material in areas where groundwater is located close to the base of the foundation.

Wall and floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is laid on a sand and crushed stone embankment, with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm. The thickness of the insulation is selected depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. Waterproofing in this case is a polyethylene film, which is laid on the warm side of the insulation material, fixing it with ordinary glue, without the use of plastic substances. The laid waterproofing layer is poured with a screed solution consisting of sand and cement, or two layers of GVL. If you are planning to arrange underfloor heating. then heating elements must be placed on a screed.

If it is planned to insulate the floors with the help of “ordinary old-fashioned” materials, then you can use glass wool or mineral wool boards. However, it should be remembered that such heaters are not moisture resistant enough, so they will have to be carefully waterproofed.

For wooden houses when the floor is laid above the ground along the logs, insulation materials are laid between the logs, with waterproofing, on boards hemmed from below. And the vapor and waterproofing material itself is laid on top of the insulation along the warm side of the thermal insulation.

And finally: floor insulation will be the more effective, the more insulated surfaces there are in the apartment (walls, windows and doors).

Draft floors serve to level the ceiling, are responsible for the sound insulation of the premises below, and on the ground floors and in buildings with apartment heating they also perform a heat-insulating function.

"secondary" almost always have to restore or reconstruct the subfloor. At first glance, this work is not difficult, because there is no shortage of materials on the market, and many companies offer ready-made solutions, such as prefabricated screeds. However, making a choice is sometimes problematic, because you need to take into account the state of the ceiling, operational loads, ceiling heights, the qualifications of builders, the type of coverage and other factors. And besides, before starting work, it is necessary to obtain permission from the housing inspection authorities to change the floor structure. And the older the house, the more difficult it is to repair.

In most old houses, massive boards, panel or block parquet are laid.

When repairing, worn floorboards are removed together with the sub-base, a new subfloor is mounted and laid, for example, practical laminate or parquet board

Logs are less durable than a cement-sand screed, however, a wooden base weighs less, is built faster and is easier to repair

Common Mistakes When Renovating a Subfloor

Attempt to level the floor with thin-layer materials (4 mm plywood, fiberboard, cardboard, etc.). Irregularities can be hidden only for a short time.

Unreliable fastening of the lag to the base, the use of leveling pads made of short-lived materials.

Improper use of waterproofing materials, for example, laying a polyethylene film over the log and insulation, which prevents the evaporation of moisture from the thickness of the structure.

Pouring a wet screed in a house with dilapidated ceilings or without a waterproofing substrate.

Laying floor coverings on a dry cement-sand screed. If the repair needs to be completed in a short time, you should choose quick-drying levelers - Vetonit 6000 (veber.vetonit), Express-Finish (Ivsil), etc.

In "Stalin"

Houses built in the 1930s the ceilings are mainly wooden beams (from timber 150 × 200 mm and more). Between the beams, a rough boardwalk is arranged (from the side of the lower room it is plastered on shingles), roofing material is laid and sand or slag is covered. Leveling logs were laid along the beams, to which a flooring of 40 mm thick boards was nailed, which serves as the basis for the parquet. In the post-war years, reinforced concrete beams with a T-shaped section were more often used, and slabs of lightweight concrete took the place of rolling and backfilling.

When installing a new floor in a house with beamed ceilings, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary survey. This work is entitled to be performed by construction organizations that have a license for the preservation of cultural heritage sites and / or a certificate of approval from the SRO. At the end of the examination, you should be issued a conclusion, which will present the calculation of the bearing capacity of the floor (or justify the impossibility of performing it), conclusions, and also indicate the methods of reconstruction. In the vast majority of cases, additional loading of beams is prohibited; in addition, it is required to exclude construction processes associated with the use of open fire, strong vibrations and moistening of the ceiling. For example, consider one of the possible practical solutions.

New logs can be made from dry antiseptic bars with a section of 50 × 70 mm or more; aluminum products will cost an order of magnitude more expensive (from 260 rubles per 1 linear meter), but they will increase the rigidity of the structure - the floor will sag less from loads and vibrate when walking. Logs are mounted in increments of no more than 500 mm, carefully aligned horizontally - double plastic wedges are suitable for this purpose.

If it is planned to use laminate, parquet board, piece parquet or ceramic tiles as a floor covering, a solid flooring with a thickness of 16 mm from one, and preferably two layers of waterproof plywood is arranged over the log. At the same time, compensation gaps of 4-6 mm must be left between the sheets, as well as along the perimeter of the room.

A massive board with a thickness of 35 mm or more can be attached directly to the logs, significantly saving on the flooring device.

Photo: Brozex Group, Saint-Gobain WEBER, Daüer, Knauf

Leveling the floor with a thin layer of fast-hardening compound requires professionalism. Dry mixes for basic leveling achieve high quality concrete even with manual mixing

To avoid conflicts with neighbors, it is necessary to lay a vibration-damping layer in the floor structure

Screed repair

In an apartment purchased on the secondary housing market, a concrete screed made during the previous repair may be found under the flooring. Often its quality leaves much to be desired, or there is a frank marriage. It is difficult and expensive to dismantle a heavy structure, especially if it is reinforced with mesh. Defects have to be corrected. Narrow cracks are expanded, and then filled with polymer or cement-polymer repair compounds. In places of more serious faults, the screed must be reinforced with embedded spiral anchors. If at the walls the concrete lags behind the floor (which happens when the drying is improper), holes are drilled and a repair compound is injected into the cavity. Irregularities are smoothed out with a putty for a cement floor, for example Vetonit 4100 (weber.vetonit) or "Horizon" ("Eunice"), or adding a thin layer of a liquid self-leveling mixture.

To equip the base screed, closed with water, the mixture is distributed over the surface (a), leveled with a rule (b) and a grater (c). At the same time, it is allowed to embed cables in a protective sleeve, as well as steel and polymer pipes.

In "Khrushchev"

In brick, panel and block five-story buildings built in the late 1950s - the first half of the 1960s, the ceilings are made of ribbed or hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs, and the rough floors are usually lag with sand backfill. The main layers of the floor cake are separated by roofing material or glassine.

Having dismantled the old foundation, it is possible to cover the ceiling with waterproofing material, lay new logs and fill the space between them with fine expanded clay gravel (the impact noise insulation will increase by 4–6 dB). The downside of the solution is that the logs will have to be fixed to the concrete with dowels, which will weaken the overlap.

Another (very popular) reconstruction option is to install a dry prefabricated screed, for example, based on complete systems from Knauf - OP 131 or OP 135, consisting of expanded clay backfill and moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets (or special floor elements made from GVL), as well as gaskets and sealing materials. The minimum thickness of such a screed is 40 mm. The design perfectly dampens impact noise (the addition to the floor's own soundproofing capacity will be at least 18 dB), weighs little (from 15 kg / m2) and is quite affordable (from 600 rubles per 1 m2, including installation). A dry screed can serve as the basis for most coatings, with the exception of solid board and piece parquet.

A semi-dry screed has no less strength than a wet screed, and hardens twice as fast, moreover, when it is installed, the risk of leakage into the underlying room is minimal

Light screeds

For very uneven floors, the required screed thickness may exceed 40 mm. In this case, lightweight concrete is used. The most accessible of them is expanded clay concrete, which is easy to prepare on site using a compact electric concrete mixer. The cost of 1 m 2 of expanded clay concrete screed 50 mm thick is 500–700 rubles. A monolith from a ready-made mixture with a light filler (for example, foam glass) will cost 2–2.5 times more.

Foam concrete screeds are almost one and a half times lighter, but the mortar for them is difficult to prepare on site, since specific components and / or equipment are required. It is easier to use dry mixes with polystyrene chips. Such concrete hardens relatively quickly and almost does not shrink.

The final alignment must be done quickly, because the viability of the liquid solution does not exceed 2 hours. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare for the start of work: determine the maximum level difference (a) and install point plastic beacons (b). The solution spreads well over the surface (c), but it has to be “helped” with a squeegee scraper and remove air bubbles with a spiked roller. The final layer dries from two to seven days

In a panel house of the 1970s–90s

In houses with an increased number of storeys (9–17), built since the early 1970s, the floors are assembled from round-hollow reinforced concrete slabs 220 mm thick. A concrete screed can be poured on top, but often builders laid panel parquet and laid linoleum directly on the ceiling, only somehow smoothing out the level differences with mortar.

In most buildings, the floors are in a satisfactory condition, so it is permissible to arrange a wet floor screed. But the joints of the plates are not at all airtight, besides, concrete perfectly transmits impact noise, therefore, before pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet, for which the materials Akuflex Super, Shumanet-100 Hydro and their analogues are suitable.

If the maximum floor level difference is 20 mm (i.e. the required leveling layer thickness is 40 mm or less), the base layer can be made of cement-sand mortar without metal reinforcement. In damp rooms, it does not hurt to add a water-repellent additive, such as CC 92 (Ceresit) or Tiprom C (Sazi).

With an estimated screed thickness of more than 40 mm, light concretes are used (say, expanded clay concrete, the density of which is 1.5–1.7 times lower than that of sand concrete) and reinforcement with a road mesh.

When installing the logs must be carefully aligned. For this purpose, type-setting wedges are used, as well as adjustable supports - plastic

Stronger metal supports

Most modern coatings are laid on a solid base, which is easy to create with thick plywood.

Sheet materials

Instead of plywood, moisture-resistant chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm or more is often used - laminated

The joints of the long sides of the plates, even those provided with grooves and ridges, must be located on a support (lag)

Chipboard without coating

When installing a dry Knauf screed, first spread a polymer film and lay an edge tape along the walls, which interrupts the transmission of impact and structural noise from the screed to the walls and vice versa

After that, calibrated expanded clay gravel is poured

Gravel is leveled with beacons and a long rule with a bubble level

On top of the backfill, a solid base is mounted from small-format Knauf supersheets or special floor elements.

The joints are glued with mastic and puttied with KNAUF-Fugen GV

Ideally, when installing the lag, mounts with a rubber “cushion” should be used to prevent the spread of vibrations, and noise-absorbing material should be laid between the lags

Mineral wool boards located under the screed

Photo: Korda

The surface is impregnated with special oil

An even and solid base is the main condition for an impeccable appearance and a long service life of the floor covering.

Base type	Prefabricated wooden (logs + plywood or chipboard)	Prefabricated backfill (expanded clay gravel + GVLV or CSP)	Wet screed
Peel strength of the surface layer	High, usually more than 20 MPa	Low, less than 20 MPa	Medium or high, but only with the correct application of the leveling layer
Soundproofing	Satisfactory (reduction of impact noise by more than 10 dB) when using vibration damping mounts and laying soundproof mats between the joists	Good (more than 15 dB) even with a minimum thickness of 40 mm	Satisfactory or good when using vibration damping substrates
thermal insulation	Satisfactory when filling the space between the lags with basalt wool	Satisfactory (with a thickness of 50–60 mm) or good (more than 80 mm)	bad
Moisture resistance	Low. Not recommended for use in wet areas. As a rule, after the "flood" you have to change the base	Low. Cannot be used in wet areas	high
Service life, years	15–25	20–30	Over 50
Price (including installation work), RUB/m2	From 1800	From 650	From 1100