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A stove-stove is perhaps the simplest type of household heating and cooking stoves. And, probably, the cheapest and most unassuming to operate. There are many types of potbelly stoves on sale - from a purely utilitarian look to retro in artistic performance and modern high-tech ones created using composites and nanomaterials, see Fig.

The purpose of this article is, firstly, to help the reader understand all this diversity. Taking advantage of the popularity of a popular brand, advertisers and marketers do not call them stoves. You can even come across names like "stove potbelly stove-buleryan". Presumably, they will soon start offering salted sugar, dried watermelons or Arctic tropical resorts ...

Secondly, to help those who want to make a potbelly stove with their own hands. Potbelly stove is not a collective name for something technically amorphous, but a design created for a specific purpose in compliance with clear principles.

Thirdly, to debunk some of the prejudices regarding the bourgeoisie. It is believed that they are gluttonous, like a greedy bourgeois, picky about fuel, like a gourmet about the menu in an expensive restaurant, fire and trauma. Meanwhile, the potbelly stove was born in conditions that require directly opposite qualities. And it was by no means stupid amateurs who created it ...

Pedigree with history

The bourgeois stove was invented by the bourgeois who were not finished by the revolution; in the terminology of the victorious proletariat - "former". Only not exploitative speculators. Even during the years of the Stolypin upsurge before the world war, they transferred capital to the offshore companies of that time, and when the Brusilov breakthrough (“Cossacks in five crossings from Berlin!”), With the soft but strong assistance of the agents of the tsarina and Grishka Rasputin, drowned, rushed en masse to Paris, London, Brooklyn.

The remaining "former" were mostly highly qualified specialists in various industries and deeply decent people. For this, the proletarians did not favor them any more than Polygraph Poligrafych Sharikov, the professor of Preobrazhensky. They used it, but under war communism, food and fuel were allocated only according to a mandate signed personally by Lenin.

Fortunately, pupils and colleagues younger than a suitable background did not allow the "former" to die. In the film about A. N. Tupolev there is a very true episode: the future great aircraft designer, and then still a student, sawing for wood with another future great aviator - N. N. Polikarpov - in the apartment of N. Ye. Zhukovsky's father of aerodynamics, a tree stolen from the park , and there and then the potbelly stove glows with heat.

But the stove was invented not by aviators, but by heating engineers. Russia has long been famous for its stove business. The foreigners who visited it as one admired the perfection, Olearius and Casanova, and climbed in them to investigate the device. Casanova writes in her memoirs: “The skill of the Russians in setting up stoves surpasses the skill of the Venetians in setting artificial reservoirs". From the mouth of a Venetian, this is an extraordinary praise.

From here it immediately becomes clear that the gluttony of the bourgeois is simply a consequence of improper design and / or exploitation. You can't just steal a tree or a fence, the Cheka does not sleep until the execution is on the spot. The stove had to be created so that the Viennese set would last at least for the winter. And the "former" knew a lot about heat engineering and other sciences necessary for the furnace business.

With the beginning of the NEP and the rise of the USSR, the attitude towards the “former”, at least at the top, changed radically. But the potbelly stove did not disappear as unnecessary. Even under Lenin, workers began to distribute plots of land in the suburbs for, as they said then, suburban vegetable gardens. Which are nothing more than the present dachas. And the potbelly stove, economical, elementary simple and unpretentious, fit just right. In what capacity it is most used today.

It was then that the industrial production of bourgeois stoves was started. True, not for the working class, but for the defenders of the revolution - the Red Army. At the same time, its design was brought to complete perfection, and it turned out to be so successful that a large number of decorated potbelly stoves were exported, delivering currency to the USSR, bypassing the then sanctions.

Far from the homeland, the potbelly stove did not go unnoticed by the local bourgeoisie. The Finns were the first to start its industrial production abroad, back in the 1920s. And now on the stove market, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish stoves are holding on confidently, see fig. on right. First of all - due to the very moderate price and ease of use compared to comparable stoves of other designs.

About price and quality

Here it would be appropriate to immediately raise the question: what is better - to buy or build? Let's say right away - decide for yourself, depending on the available funds, skill and ability for technical creativity. The cost of building your own stove will hardly be less than buying a finished... But on the other hand, it is easier to implement and test new stove ideas in a stove.

Stove-potbelly stove "Gnome"

For example, shown in fig. the simplest stove "Gnome" costs something about 6,000 rubles. And shown in fig. higher - already 20-25 thousand rubles. And it is worth it if it will be used as; there will be a special section on this later.

If there is enough money to buy a stove, then it is better to take cast iron. A cast-iron potbelly stove in terms of its qualities is preferable to all others. "Military" stoves, which will also be discussed separately, are mostly cast iron. Those wishing to acquire a stove should also pay close attention to online auctions and stove sites with a sale. The fact is that there you can find cast-iron stoves no more expensive than the simplest welded new ones, see fig. below. For a stove that is clearly antique-looking in perfect condition and ask, respectively, up to 100,000 rubles. and more, but the "cast iron" rusted, but with artistic casting and a two-burner hob "pulls" for 7-8 thousand.

Design and principle of operation

Now let us explain to those who want to make a potbelly stove, what is it good for. The device, so to speak, of a primordial potbelly stove is schematically shown on the next. rice. on right. It looks like a primitive deaf-hearth furnace, with an efficiency of 5-10%. But the “former” needed to maintain the simplicity of the design (after all, everything is in ruins, you can't find a nail) to achieve efficiency up to 60% or more. A lesser value could cost life if heated with Viennese headsets. How did the bourgeoisie achieve this?

Pipe

The first highlight of the potbelly stove is the pipe. More precisely, its diameter. The capacity of the chimney must be less than the flue gas capacity of the furnace. Then they will not be able to immediately go into the pipe, and will make several turns in the vertical plane inside the furnace, at the same time sucking in the air necessary for the complete combustion of the fuel. The gases will squeeze into the chimney when they are already cool enough.

The required gas distribution is provided accurate calculation pipe diameter. It should be (in millimeters) 2.7 times the volume of the furnace, counting it in liters. For example, the "Gnome" shown above has a furnace volume of about 40 liters. Then the optimal pipe diameter is 106 mm. In a real design, it is 110, which speaks of its well thought-out design.

If a potbelly stove with grates and horizontal smoke channels, see below, then the height of the furnace is considered from the top of the grate to the bottom of the partition of the first channel. The diameter of the chimney, in order to fit into a standard range of sizes, can be taken within 2.5-3 volumes of the furnace; the ratio is the same, millimeters-liters. For reference: 2.7 is the rounded value of the base of the natural logarithm e = 2.718281828 ...

Screen

The hot gases just spinning in the iron box will cool down too quickly. And they should not just cool down, but burn out. And the fuel must burn in the mode of partial pyrolysis, which also requires a high temperature. The most economical complete pyrolysis from dry as gunpowder Viennese furniture cannot be achieved. Sometimes it is possible to get hold of coal, but it is not suitable for pyrolysis, so the stove itself must smoothly switch from mode to mode and also work on smoldering.

Hence - the second secret of the potbelly stove: a metal screen from three sides, from the sides and from the back. That is, half of the stove surface area is covered by the screen. Half of this is also not taken at random, but as a result of complex calculations and accurate calculation.

The screen should be 50-70 mm from the furnace body. In doing so, it will reflect back to it more than half of the IR radiation. This will give just the right temperature inside the furnace, and at the same time reduce the risk of burns or fire. In addition, the gap between the screen and the body of the stove is necessary to further increase its efficiency at the beginning of the firebox, see below.

Convection

High-energy fuels (dry wood, coal) give off a lot of heat at the beginning of combustion. Even if you heat the stove a little, it will fly out into the chimney, which the “former” who is freezing in a beaver coat does not need it. Moreover, there is a limited supply of fuel, and the possibility of its regular replenishment is very problematic. From here - you need to transfer the initial flash of heat to the room somehow very quickly.

Physically, there is a way: the fastest heat transfer mechanism is convection. It is only necessary not to let the outside air near the stove immediately "scatter to the sides", but to detain it near the hot surface and let it flow along it in a passing stream. Which is what the screen does. So its distance of 50-70 mm from the body is also not from the ceiling. Who knows about aerodynamics, think about whether the Reynolds number will go beyond the limits of laminarity under normal conditions? Hence, it is clear that there is no point in enclosing horizontal surfaces with a screen, and the front one is still very weakly heated and convection will not intensify, only extra material is needed and it will be inconvenient to use the stove.

Litter

Under potbelly stoves it is heated moderately compared to the walls, but still, intensely radiates infrared downward. This does not impair the efficiency of the furnace, but before a fire when installed on wooden floor near. Therefore, the installation of a potbelly stove should be carried out on a metal sheet with a removal of at least 350 mm along the contour of the furnace (ideally, from 600 mm), laid, in turn, on a sheet of asbestos or a modern, completely safe for health, material - basalt or kaolin cardboard with a thickness of at least 6 mm. Now it will also increase the efficiency of the stove: in the days of the "former" concrete floors were rare.

Chimney

Finally, the potbelly stove is still not full-fledged, and with all the tricks described above, the gases into the chimney are still very hot and not completely burned out. To squeeze out all the heat from them, it was necessary to take the chimney seriously.

The chimney for a potbelly stove is built as follows: first, there is a vertical part with a height of at least 1-1.2 m. It is desirable to wrap it up with thermal insulation, at least with the same basalt cardboard. Then a gas economizer is formed in it, weaker than in, but still quite active.

Then - a hog, a horizontal or slightly inclined (plus or minus 10 degrees) pipe of the same diameter. It is in the hog that the remnants burn out flue gas, and it gives off to the room up to a quarter of the heat from the stove. The minimum hog length is 2.5 m, and best of all - 4.5 m or more. In bourgeois apartments, this was easily ensured, but with the advent of the habit of small-sized housing, the role of the hog was forgotten.

The hog must be at least 1.2 m from the ceiling and from the walls plastered with ordinary, not heat-resistant plaster, not less than 1.2 m.This is explained not only by the requirements fire safety: the plaster will soon swell and flake off from variable heat loads. The hogs must be at least 1.5 m away from the wooden wall.

According to the requirements of injury safety from the bottom of the hog to the floor, there must be at least 2.2 m so that a person tall in the headdress did not touch the red-hot pipe with his head. Bourgeois ceilings of 3.5 - 4 m are now also rare, therefore, in modern housing, it is advisable to surround hogs with a protective fence in the form of a cylinder made of metal mesh.

Development and improvements

The "bourgeois" potbelly stove was designed most of all for dry firewood or peat: it was born when the hawks squeezed Soviet Russia from all sides. All coal-mining areas and suitable for development woodlands were in the hands of the enemy. Only later when Soviet Union already got to his feet, the stove was adapted for other types of solid fuel.

We had to do quite a bit for this: to add a grate and horizontal partitions to the firebox that form smoke channels. At the forward bend of the channel, the pressure in the presence of thrust will always be below atmospheric, which was not provided by the original potbelly stove. Therefore, it became possible there to equip the stove with a burner, turning it into a heating and cooking stove. If the pipe is brought out at least 1.5 m above the ridge of the roof and equipped with an aerodynamic mushroom umbrella, then, without fear of waste, such a stove can be made with a two-burner stove. A drawing of the improved potbelly stove is shown on the left pos. rice.

With the development of heating technology, more and more spread, very economical and easy to use. The potbelly stove turned out to be suitable for this furnace mode: it was enough to remove the grates, returning to the deaf hearth, and supply the blower with an air choke that regulates the combustion mode and heat output... On the right pos. rice. a stove-stove with a convenient and technologically advanced air regulator by V. Loginov is shown.

About grates and blower

To turn the potbelly stove from an ordinary stove into a slow one, the grate must be removed. Slow combustion is ensured by supplying air to the fuel from above, so that the smoldering mass itself sucks in as much as it needs. When air is supplied from below through the grate, either the top layer of the fuel will decay, and the bottom will remain intact, or, if the fuel is air-permeable and dry, combustion will turn into a fiery one. Remember the chores with barbecue on the grill: you have to blow on the coals, then extinguish the flared ones.

Therefore, the grate in a multi-mode potbelly stove must be made not one-piece from a steel sheet, after all, you cannot pull it out through the firebox door, but typeset from individual cast-iron grates. They can be supported by steel corners welded to the walls of the furnace from the inside or (better) pieces of reinforcing bars 10-15 mm in diameter.

But in any case, the blower should be made round, like in Loginov's stove, and equipped with an M60x1 pipe installed on screws or rivets. From welding, the thread will lead completely, and, as you know, large threads do not pass with taps, only on the machine.

A potbelly stove with a round threaded blower becomes truly universal:

• The blower was completely open - potbelly stove, coal, peat briquettes, pellets.
• The Loginov choke is screwed onto the blower, the grates are removed - a slow burning stove on sawdust, wood chips, waste paper / cardboard and other waste fuel.
• The grates are installed, the gasifier outlet is introduced into the blower (see below) - a potbelly stove on working off, dark heating oil.

Water

The rooms in the bourgeois apartments (in the mansions lived those who draped) were, according to the present ideas, very large. Therefore, in the stationary combustion mode, an essential role in their heating was played by the IR from the screen. In today's housing, convection heating is sufficient, thermal radiation will only overheat the walls, increasing heat loss to the outside.

The excess of IR rays is best used by surrounding the potbelly stove instead of the screen with a U-shaped hot water boiler. It will not knock down the combustion mode in the stove, because IR is reflected by the inner surface layer of the metal of the screen, and its reflectivity is almost independent of the surface temperature.

The share of IR from the screen to the outside is for a potbelly stove 1 / 5-1 / 7 of its thermal power, therefore a water stove will provide only hot water supply with a storage tank. But for a summer cottage or a rural house, and this is already a godsend.

Armies and cast iron

The ratio of heat capacity and thermal conductivity of cast iron is such that a screen cast from it is not needed for a potbelly stove. This quality was first appreciated by the military: think how long the thin screen on pegs in the barracks, where grandfathers celebrate orders for demobilization, will last long, and in general, you never know what happens in a soldier's life.

Now army potbelly stoves are widely sold. Basically, they offer round barracks, cast of their cast iron, from the monumental structures of the times of Chapaev and Petka (on the left in the figure below) to modern ones from the warehouses of NZ, carefully mothballed (in the middle, in the same figure). However, on sites offering military equipment, you can find and rectangular of different standard sizes, from 7-12 kW tents (on the right in the figure), to miniature ones that heated small equipment rooms like the R-405 radio relay station.

When considering whether to buy a "military" potbelly stove, you need to consider the following:

1. Armeyki are distinguished by their high strength and thermal efficiency.
2. They can operate on any solid fuel without readjustment and bulkheads.
3. The price is higher than that of the civilian counterpart.
4. It is impossible to equip the army with a water-heating circuit.

The first and second is explained by the fact that the design of the army bourgeoisie was carefully worked out by specialists. Firstly, there may not be enough transport for the delivery of ammunition, water, food, medicines and dressings to the front line, and then there is also firewood / coal, so the army must be omnivorous. And there may be little fuel in place, but a frozen fighter is not a fighter. In addition, smoke from the chimney is not only an indicator of the heat emitted into the chimney, but also a strong unmasking factor. Therefore, in terms of economy, you need to squeeze out everything possible and impossible from the stove.

Why nothing will work with a water heater in a cast-iron armeyka is understandable. Since there is no screen, then there is nowhere to put the boiler, and if you take away excess heat from the firebox or chimney, the efficiency will drop, smoke will go out. But there is no point in surrounding the rectangular army with a boiler either: they were made of special steels, similar to cast iron in terms of their thermal properties. The author remembers the ploy for the day-lays: to boil the kettle on the barracks army without a burner in the morning. Those who are smarter, they just went to the kitchen for boiling water before getting up.

In general, an army potbelly stove does not fit well into the house, for household needs it is not calculated in any way. Best suited for utility rooms with different kinds miasma in the air: a cowshed, a pigsty, a poultry house, a greenhouse. There, its "oakiness" will ensure long-term use without hassle.

Homemade

Homemade potbelly stoves can be divided into three groups:

• Well thought out ideas that are useful.
• Efficient, but insufficiently developed.
• Just curiosities.

Good ones

Of the good ones, first of all, I would like to note a brick stove for a bath, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. on right. Generally speaking, it is contraindicated for a potbelly stove, it was originally calculated on. But in this case, the author successfully solved all the problems, creating a stove much easier to perform and requiring less material than. True, its efficiency due to the absence of a hog in the chimney is unlikely to exceed 40%, but for sauna stove it is not important.

The second design is the already mentioned potbelly stove being worked off. Its diagram is shown in Fig. left below. It would seem, what is easier - to bend the upper end of the gasifier and shove it into the stove blower under the grate, which in this case will become the afterburner (afterburner)? The grate will play the role of a hot gas choke, similar to an incomplete baffle in an afterburner.

But not everything is so simple. If the gas exchange holes in the curved gasifier are distributed, as in a straight vertical, uniformly along its generatrix, then the gas column in it will be knocked into a rushing pulsating bundle. This is an emergency mode, fraught with fire and even an explosion.

The mechanism of this phenomenon is subtle, there are several reasons, including the uncompensated Coriolis forces arising from the rotation of the Earth. But the principles of building an oil attachment to the stove are simple:

1. The total number and diameter of holes in the gasifier remain unchanged.
2. From a quarter to a third of them are located evenly around the circumference on its horizontal part.
3. The rest are drilled in two rows on the lateral surface of the curved and vertical parts symmetrically relative to the longitudinal vertical plane of the gasifier.

It is not known whether the author of the design shown on the trail came. rice. on the right, to the same conclusions by inference and calculations, or by a series of experiments; rather risky, I must say. But, judging by the nature of combustion visible in the picture, its product is quite efficient and gives good efficiency.

Potbelly stove on working off in action

I would like to add only one thing: in order to save space, especially, it is advisable to shove the fuel tank under the stove. To do this, you need, firstly, to lengthen its legs to 400-450 mm, respectively, reducing the vertical part of the chimney. This will not worsen the efficiency when firing up by working out the efficiency.

Secondly, in this case, it is tempting to place the filling hole (also known as the air choke) next to the gasifier so as not to get your hand under the hot stove. This should never be done! Otherwise, the combustion of oil in the tank will become unstable, it may be thrown into the gasifier, and this is a 100% fire near the car and fuel and lubricants.

The filling hole must be located in the corner of the tank farthest from the gasifier. Right or left - all the same, depending on the location of the stove in place. To top up the fuel (the furnace cannot be extinguished until all the oil has burned out and the stove has cooled down), you need to use a funnel with a long curved spout, strictly observing fire safety rules.

Video: description of a homemade welded potbelly stove

Workers, mediocre

A common home-made potbelly stove - from a barrel. At first glance, not bad: an ordinary 200-liter fuel barrel has a diameter of 600 mm. A hexagon with a side of 314 mm fits into such a circle, which provides the necessary technological allowance when installing standard oven appliances... However, the efficiency of a barrel potbelly stove turns out to be no more than 15%, and when you try to increase it by shielding, the stove burns out with regular heating in less than a season.

The reason is not only in the thin metal, but also in the too high barrel height: 850 mm. The height of the stove furnace should be 1.3-1.5 times less than its depth. If the grate is raised and the blower is made high, then the lower part of the furnace will take away from the furnace and give the air the heat necessary for the correct gas dynamics of the potbelly stove. There are two possible ways out:

1. Brick the barrel a third or half of its height, as shown in fig. on right.
2. In the upper third of the furnace, equip an oven lined with refractory, through which the chimney will pass.

In both cases, the work becomes more complicated, and the furnace will last for 5 years, no more, because of the same thin metal. And the efficiency will turn out to be no higher than 20%, another size ratio plays a role here: the depth of the furnace must be approximately twice its width, otherwise the internal gas vortex will not be able to form properly.

The second popular option is a potbelly stove. Industrial, narrow and high, it will not go unambiguously. Unless you cut out most of its middle and make a mini potbelly stove. But at the same time, other factors will manifest themselves, see below.

A household gas cylinder is more suitable in size. It has to be put on its side for a potbelly stove: if you use a regular neck under the chimney, then the efficiency of the more notorious 5-7% will not work. The stove chimney should be located in the far part of the firebox. And in a potbelly stove from a cylinder on its side it is very difficult to put / remove grates and adapt an air throttle to it, so it is not very suitable for slow burning.

In either case, the bottom and roof of the furnace are curved, cylindrical or spherical. Both the potbelly stove is contraindicated. All of its gas dynamics was originally calculated for a flat under and roof. Rounded in one or two planes will knock a wide gas vortex into a bundle, which, not having time to burn out properly, will carry away heat into the pipe. The hog on the chimney will not help so that the tourniquet in it has time to unwind, burn out and cool down, its length is about 12 m.

Video: homemade potbelly stove from gas cylinders

Curiosities

Of the curious structures embodied in metal, the most noticeable is the gas stove. Insert a propane burner into the firebox - and you're done. It burns, but a gas cylinder of such an "improvement" eats up faster than a heat gun. The reason is that the potbelly stove is in no way designed for gas. All should have, regardless of the burner design, a developed internal heat exchange surface: fins, hot water register, etc. Gas is an extremely energetic fuel, combustion products are very light and quickly slip into the pipe. There is nothing in the potbelly stove that could hold them back until they give off heat. In terms of design, a good gas stove and a potbelly stove are antagonists.

As they say, for fun's sake, it is worth mentioning a stove ... made of an aluminum 40-liter milk flask! The sources contain only diagrams, which is quite understandable: what would the “authors” use to heat a furnace made of a material with a melting point of 660 degrees Celsius?

Video: an unusual not quite potbelly stove from car disks

Potbelly stove in the interior

From the pictures in the text it is clear that a stove can be an interior decoration, a significant, and even a dominant element of its design. The fireplace stove is one of the most demanded products in its sector. It can be executed both in antique style and in a modern style (see fig.). In any case, it is based on a ready-made fireplace insert with biofuel. In essence, this is just a mobile mini-fireplace, called a stove.

But also the old, restored wood-burning stove in the decoration will perfectly play the role of a fireplace in a city apartment, there would be a separate chimney in it (stalinkas, Khrushchev / Brezhnevka with titans or gas water heaters, modern apartments for free planning in monolithic houses). Its most important advantage in this capacity is that you can do without the permission of the firemen (!). Why? And she is not stationary heater... Who and when asked for permission to be stored on the balcony or in the closet? Legally portable potbelly stove on legs is the same.

Its second advantage is the price. Up to 20 sput for a new, good, beautiful one - this is for chickens in the fireplace. Project only fixed fireplace in the city, even without approval, will cost more. Of course, if a fire breaks out through the fault of the owner of the fireplace stove, responsibility cannot be fully avoided. But imposing a fine for a fireplace stove is legally so troublesome that it is easier for firefighters to turn a blind eye to it.

Note: the above does not apply to army stoves, incl. and small rectangular ones. They all have feet with bolt holes in the foundation, which means the device is stationary. Likewise - ready-made factory ovens with bolt feet.

How to heat a potbelly stove?

The bourgeois who invented the potbelly stove knew how to work not only with their heads, but also with their hands in the laboratory. Therefore, in order for their stove to show all its advantages, it is necessary to determine the minimum and maximum filling of each type of fuel. The heat from the overfed / underfed potbelly stove will fly out into the pipe due to the fact that circulation does not form in the firebox. In the first case, the excess of gases simply will not leave room for it, and in the second there will not be enough gases themselves.

Fortunately, the potbelly stove is also unpretentious here: the range of fuel mass at which the efficiency is maintained is very wide. You can immediately define it like this:

• Preparing a bucket of fuel.
• We literally lay a handful, fire up.
• We put in a little until the beginning of the hog glows cherry.
• Let's see how much is taken from the bucket, this is the minimum bookmark.
• We add more, in larger portions, until 1 / 5-1 / 6 of the far part of the hog remains dark.
• Let's see how many have been selected now, this is the maximum tab.

Note: it is necessary to determine on a cloudy winter day or in weak diffused lighting of the same strength.

On high-quality fuel (anthracite, pellets), the hog can be heated in a ring that changes in width and “walks” along its length. In this case, several fireboxes are required to determine the volume / mass of the tabs. As the fuel burns out, the ring will narrow and move towards the beginning of the hog. At the maximum tab, it at the beginning of the firebox will take up to a third of its length at the far end, and at the minimum it will appear in the middle of it and will be 3-4 palms wide.

Video: potbelly stove in garage heating

Finally

The stove-stove is a clear example of the fact that everything ingenious is simple. But the opposite statement, so beloved by informals of various interpretations: "Everything that is simple is brilliant" is absolutely wrong. Therefore, you need to buy and make a potbelly stove yourself with full knowledge of the matter, intelligence, attention and observation.

In houses in which people live for a long time, high-quality and functional heating devices must carry out their work in a constant mode. This will help ensure a comfortable and stable temperature regime in the house, and around the clock.

For this purpose, furnaces are usually used with optimal heat capacity. They give off heat from the furnaces spent from time to time for the longest possible time. In addition, a variety of boilers are widely used, which continuously heat up the air or the used heat transfer fluid. This applies to living quarters and structures.

Those that belong to the category of non-residential are heated a little differently. For the reason that heat is needed here only sometimes, it is required to receive it as quickly as possible and with simultaneous small material expenditures. Such premises include such objects as greenhouses, various trailers, sheds, small houses. For them, the best option would be efficient stove with a water circuit with your own hands, independently made and working on development

By its design, it is the most primitive oven, which, at the same time, has proven its ideal efficiency for quite some time. It is for this reason that the furnaces that work in the development, and now do not lose their relevance. You can easily find a suitable drawing and do it yourself.

Some manufacturers of modern heating equipment they are still engaged in the production of solid models of the factory plan, but, despite this, stove stoves on wood or on working off are quite often made by hand, relying on a drawing. Moreover, their General characteristics sometimes much higher than the standard factory options.

The main features of this heating device will be described below, which will help determine which important details need to turn Special attention, if it was decided to make a stove with your own hands.

Among the main advantages of this oven are the following positive factors, how:
• Potbelly stove is relative simple construction which can be performed without any problems simple master through the use of available tools and materials;
• As a result, this product turns out to be quite mobile, and even when using a thick metal sheet or lining;
• Due to the presence of walls made of metal, the stove quickly heats up the room - for this reason, this device is for suburban country houses and a garage is ideal;
• Low cost of the furnace, as well as the fuel used, since very often such furnaces are working on a mining operation.

Before making an oven of such a plan, based on a drawing or photo, it is worth knowing about the presence of some shortcomings. Due to the small heat capacity, such a stove heats up the room when the firebox itself is carried out directly.
The wall of the appliance becomes very hot, therefore extreme care is required when handling the oven.

Basic models of homemade stoves

According to its principles, the potbelly stove is practically no different from the models of a special solid-fuel device. This is a specific variation of a very simple stove in the fireplace category. There are also special models that are equipped with cooking hobs and special bath devices.

The material used to make the stove
Often a potbelly stove is made of high quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. At different types metal, often used made of natural stone elements. If cast iron is used, then you should count on low heat capacity parameters, it is very difficult to find it and it is not easy to cook it. For this reason, many people prefer steel, it is much easier to work with. Moreover, the thicker the material, the longer it will last.
If you plan to make a device for rare use, for example, for emergency situations with a heating system, then make it from simple iron, which has a thickness of 1 mm.
In the process of making a stove, all the fittings may well be used from the factory. This applies to elements such as grates, necessary doors, burners and latches. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands using steel.

Shape and material for the body
If you want to make a potbelly stove using drawings or photos, you must use the method of cutting a metal sheet.

In addition, elements such as:
• Molded profiles;
• Square tube;
• Special corners;
• Armature;
• Rod.

All this is required to make a rectangular oven body. Due to the presence of special planes, the case will be distinguished by ideal ergonomic properties. In other words, the potbelly stove will be as stable as possible, it is easy to handle and veneer. The stove can be easily and simply docked with the most different designs, objects and details.

As a basis, various cabinet products and boxes made of metal can be used. Often these are elements of a cylindrical shape, for example, large diameter pipes, cans, gas cylinders.

In the process of making a furnace with your own hands, you will definitely need to use welding. If the metal is not very thick, the furnace can be made using bolts, screws and a drill.
Regardless of the model chosen, it is important to use drawings as the basis for manufacturing, because despite the relative simplicity, it is required to follow certain instructions for the implementation of the heating means.

Important structural components

To make a solid stove for a garage, it is recommended to use detailed diagrams, photos will not help here. The drawing will help you to independently perform a practical and very effective version of the furnace, which will ideal solution for heating a garage or other room.

Manufacturing of a combustion chamber
It is worth noting that the larger the firebox is in terms of its area, the better it will be, since the stove, which runs on oil, and on wood, and during mining, transfers the function of efficient heat transfer. In addition, it is important to have a decent area of ​​the bottom of the chamber, then it will turn out to be good to lay firewood or other coolant. It is for this reason that the shape of the oven must be cylindrical and also laid on its side. All rectangular ovens must also be oriented strictly horizontally. Vertical arrangement is possible only if the furnace is characterized by large dimensions.

Ash pan production
The structural element This is not always done, since ash can be removed directly from the fuel chamber. To ensure the air supply, you just have to drill in the door small holes... If you plan to make an oven for a garage with an ash pan, then it may look like a box. This design makes it possible not to take up the space of the combustion chamber. In this case, the metal can be used rather thin, since there is no danger of burning out. It also does not need to be welded, it is enough just to fasten everything with screws.

Grate
If such an element is used, then it effectively separates the chamber and the ash pan located in the housing. It is quite possible to use factory grates made of cast iron. The distance rule is mandatory. The spacing between the gratings should be 10 mm. For fastening, it is quite possible to use a special corner, which with its outer edge is turned into the fuel chamber.

Openings and doors
Such elements, as a rule, are made of metal, which usually remains after the work on cutting out the necessary parts is carried out. The doors are connected to the body by welding and steel canopies.

It is imperative to install a durable locking device - a latch or bolt.

Openings deserve special attention, since here it is necessary to use the standard dimensions that display the drawings:

• For a firebox 250 x 250 mm.
• For the blower - 100 mm high and 250 mm wide.
• The awnings are usually placed on the same vertical, with the distance between the numerous openings being approximately 10 cm.

To prevent coals from falling out through the openings and doors, it is better to make the furnace opening about a couple of centimeters above the level of the grate.
Discharge of gases and smoke
Pipes for this oven should be 100 to 150 mm in diameter. This element is directly involved in the process of heat transfer, therefore it is made of high-quality steel, and also is not insulated.

A part such as a branch pipe is usually located on the side, as well as at the very top of the furnace, with the first option being the most preferred.

Pipes in a room are usually not led along the shortest lines, but strictly to one of the most distant points and at the same time inclined and horizontal sections. This design significantly increases the amount of heat generated.

The pipes with which the furnace is equipped, as the drawings show, must necessarily be equipped with valves - moving along a guide or rotary.

The need for such elements is based on the fact that it is possible to regulate the smoke removal process as efficiently as possible, to block the chimney for a time when the firebox is not being carried out.

The valve on the pipes must be installed without fail, especially if different measures are taken to increase the total heat capacity of the furnace.

Parts for a significant increase in combustion and heat capacity
Pipes in a waste oil oven are not the only elements required. It is important to ensure an optimal long-term combustion process. For a furnace that runs on waste oil, a special suspended weight is ideal. As the fuel burns, it will press the load against the grate by its gravity. A metal pancake with a hole can be used as such a load.

Stone can be used as elements providing heat capacity.

Here you can note the following execution options:

1. If the furnace is running on waste oil, a lining with special refractory plates is optimal. It is ideal in that the metal body wears out much less, and the volume of the firebox is also preserved;
2. Another method is based on laying bricks on all walls. As a result, you can get a furnace that runs on waste oil;
3. There are drawings of oil ovens that have an open box in their upper part. A stone or brick is laid in it.
4. Very often a potbelly stove, running on oil, is designed in such a way that there will be a net on both sides of it to firmly fix the stones.

Summing up

This article has described the main points for the manufacture of ovens that run on oil. If you know all the main points of their manufacture, you can quickly make a potbelly stove yourself.

These are just the highlights, but there are also numerous additional parts such as feet, carrying handles and a protective shield. These details usually reflect the drawings, so everything will be as easy and simple as possible.

Often homeowners choose to assemble simple and useful homemade products from improvised and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A potbelly stove can be made with your own hands, and, if desired, modernized to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly order different options homemade ovens, drawings and diagrams are shown.

Also, methods of improving a home-made potbelly stove are analyzed in detail, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is a combustible material that has different temperatures and the nature of combustion, dictates the principles of creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove can be different, it often depends on the availability of suitable material. It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

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In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from a grate (it can be welded from fittings), under which ash will accumulate. You can also arrange a hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on both sides of it.

It's good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them on or install the oven on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a water heater, as it is also called "Titan". To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

Water in a wood-fired boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one tab in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a sheet of metal and welded.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter must be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a potbelly stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they smolder slowly, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works according to the principle long burning... The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The base of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. A hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut in its middle for a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the sides of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. The curtains are welded to the cut out piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container, an outlet is made to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted into the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and tamped. The cone is carefully removed by scrolling, a lid is put on the barrel

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, the sawdust will be in inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve for afterburning gases and increasing the heating area. In this version, the flue gas outlet is arranged at the bottom of the stove.

How can you improve a potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but it also has many significant disadvantages. It is incapable of storing heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat is ejected through the chimney into the atmosphere without any benefit. That is why the work on improving the stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a stove-stove has many modernized designs that allow:

• save fuel;
• increase the efficiency of the stove;
• increase the heat capacity;
• reduce the frequency of fuel loading.

The most common methods of increasing the efficiency of the stove are creating a slow combustion mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing a heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

It is also possible to improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan, which will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called "Buleryan", but, in addition to it, there are still many different designs made by handicraft. We recommend watching a detailed master class on homemade.

It is possible to increase the heat transfer time if the oven is lined with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? On our website there is a detailed do-it-yourself manual with diagrams and drawings.

Option # 1 - stove with increased fuel loading

This model is designed to increase efficiency and burn time. A horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs is taken as a basis and supplemented with a cassette made of a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should drop 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make the cylinder easy to install and remove, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when they are installed on the stove, they can immediately sink onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

1. The lower part of the wood, having sunk on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, which is in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but it will dry out under the influence of hot smoke.
2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the wood gradually sinks into the firebox.
3. Hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
4. At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in stoves such as "Bubafonya", "Filipinka".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises- workshops, greenhouses, other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model of the heating device, coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often, they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

• A combustion chamber is prepared from an available cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for a chimney.
• From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), cut out a circle slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
• A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle ( Exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
• Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
• A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston in the lowered state rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, there will be a draft in it, it will start to smoke.
• Next, they construct a cover that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it, suitable for the piston tube

It is possible to further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the intake of air from the street into the furnace. Thus, the heated air from the room will not escape into the chimney.

Option # 3 - furnace with secondary combustion "Filipinka"

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for the manufacture of a potbelly stove is as follows:

1. The cylinders are prepared for operation by releasing gas residues from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the grinder can provoke an explosion of gas, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make the door), a hole is cut out for installing the chimney.
3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not abut against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
4. At the exit of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for the installation of the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
7. The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant bundle is wound between the rings, the connection is fixed with screws.
8. The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door to the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

A mini-stove is well suited for heating a dwelling, a shed, a greenhouse. Most often it is made of metal. In addition, such a stove can be used on vacation, fishing, hunting or in a summer cottage where there is no power source or gas pipeline. No manufacturing is required to assemble the heater capital chimney or foundation.

It is important to note that the metal device heats up quickly and starts heating the room almost immediately. To make a mini-potbelly stove, you can use any capacity made of metal:, fire extinguisher, etc. The easiest way assemble the unit from the can, with a capacity of approximately forty liters.

Required set for the manufacture of a furnace

Before you start assembling a heater with your own hands, you need to prepare certain devices:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• welding machine (it is recommended to use an inverter unit);
• sandpaper;
• rags;
• metal container;
• steel tubes;
• bricks;
• hinges for doors;
• grate;
• wire;
• pipe branch.

Device assembly process

1. The potbelly stove will be made from a can. The capacity needs to be carefully clean from dirt and corrosion.
2. In the body of the future heating device, holes need to be made for a blower and loading firewood or coal. This can be done with using a chisel with a hammer.
3. The door hinges must be attached to the body, and then the doors must be installed in the holes made.
4. At the bottom of the container, you need to do chimney hole... It is recommended to install chimney with a 10 cm diameter.
5. The next step will be. It can be purchased from a specialist store or do it yourself... This will require a steel wire. It must be bent several times and placed inside the heating tank. Before that, supports must be welded on the inner walls so that the grate does not fall through. Supports can be made from a steel bar.
6. Then, to the hole made in the bottom, you need to attach chimney with a welding machine.
7. The potbelly stove is installed in the place designated for it. As noted above, the foundation is optional. It is enough to install a brick support or lay a metal sheet, the thickness of which is at least one centimeter.
8. Lay out around the device. This is necessary to increase the heat transfer from the stove. During operation, the brick will also heat up and give off additional heat, even after complete combustion firewood or coal.

Read also: How in wooden house install a potbelly stove

How to improve the oven

The metal stove has a significant drawback: it heats up quickly and cools down almost instantly after the fuel is burned. To increase the coefficient useful action, it is recommended to overlay the oven brick screen... As noted above, this will allow you to keep warm for some time, after the potbelly stove has completely cooled down.

It is recommended to lay the brick screen no closer, less than 30 centimeters from the heater... To ensure normal air circulation, small ventilation holes must be left in the masonry.

It is important to note that a stove with a screen will have a large mass, compared to an ordinary mini oven. Therefore, it is recommended to make a foundation with your own hands for installing a heating device.

First you need to decide on installation location of the device... It is recommended to place it close to the wall. The surface of the wall must be insulated, for this you can use a metal sheet or asbestos.

1. To make the foundation, first you need to dig a hole, the depth of which should be about 50 centimeters... The dimensions depend on the dimensions of the oven and brickwork.
2. Then the pit is covered with sand and carefully rammed... Crushed stone is poured and compacted from above.
3. The next layer there will be cement mortar... To prepare it, you need to mix the sand with water. The foundation must not be touched for three days.
4. After that, you can start laying out refractory bricks, that is, its halves, since making it thicker does not make sense.
5. The initial brick row is laid out on roofing felt. There should be a distance of 5 millimeters between the bricks.
6. When laying the second row, it is necessary to leave small holes in the half-brick for ventilation on the sides of the screen.
7. Remaining rows must be solid.
8. The upper part is laid out depending on the size of the stove and the wishes of the owner.
9. Two days later, the stove is completely ready for operation.

Oven made of discs

You can make a small oven with your own hands using a piece of pipe with large diameter... The pipe height must be about 40 centimeters... The scheme of this option is quite simple, but such a device is suitable only for technical rooms.

• First you need p, discs, chimney, sheet metal.
• All elements, except for the chimney, must be connected and welded to form a single structure. In order for the pipe to come up to the discs, the ribs must be cut from the latter.
• In the pipe you need to mark and cut a hole for the firebox... This can be done with a grinder.
• It is also necessary to make a hole in order to install the blower, in otherwise the potbelly stove will not be provided with an air flow and it will be impossible to light a fire. Blower size should be 100 × 100 millimeters.
• Cut a hole on the upper disc at the back and weld a chimney pipe to it.
• It is recommended to weld a metal sheet to the edge of the upper disc, which will act as hob.

Read also: Potbelly stove of long burning

Such a stove is more like an ordinary fire, which is fenced off with a container. Therefore, the stove is not convenient and economical. But the device is suitable for technical needs.

Stove Gnome

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove made of metal sheets is the most common. Such device neat and compact, will not spoil the design of the living space. It is used for heating and cooking. To make such an apparatus, you need to prepare sheets from metal with 4mm thickness, steel pipe for chimney, corners.

1. First you need to prepare a drawing and cut the sheets on the basis of it.
2. On the front wall, you need to make a hole for the blower and firebox. You can use cut pieces of metal to make doors.
3. WITH inside front panel at a distance of 155 mm from the top it is necessary to weld a plate, which is necessary to regulate the incoming air.
4. 75 centimeters from the top on the back one more plate needs to be welded... As a result, the potbelly stove will warm up from all sides.
5. Make a hole on the hob for the flue gas outlet and the cooking zone.
6. Legs made from corners need to be welded to the bottom of the stove.
7. You also need to weld the frame to install the grate, and then make in the panel multiple holes staggered.
8. During DIY assembly, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of all seams.

The potbelly stove always helped out in emergency situations and was a reliable assistant for summer residents, motorists with a garage, as well as owners of small private houses. Today, it often takes on a new look, developed by interior designers, and therefore fits well into the halls of elite mansions. Is it possible to make this useful and sometimes just necessary heating device with your own hands if you do not have enough experience in welding and cutting metal? Of course, yes, and yes again, in order to weld a potbelly stove, you just need to understand the general principles of welding metals, even if you get a crooked seam - it can always be cleaned with a grinder, look at the photo below which furnace was welded by the novice who held the welding machine only twice in my life:

Tools required for the job

For the manufacture of any metal structures, a certain set of tools is required, which include:

1. Welding machine, at least 200A and electrodes, protective mask and suit for welding;
2. Grinder (grinder), cutting and grinding wheels for metal. Some curly parts can only be cut with a gas cutter.
3. Skimmer(hammer);
4. Metal brush;
5. Normal hammer, chisel, pliers;
6. Tape measure, folding rule and chalk for marks;
7. Drill and drill bits for metal.

Types of homemade stoves

For different premises you can choose your own type of potbelly stove, which is more suitable for technical specifications and by outward appearance... They are made from metal tanks, pipes of medium diameters, barrels, gas cylinders and sheets with a thickness of at least 3-5 mm.

For heating in the garage, any of the stove stoves is suitable, but for use in a residential area, it is better to refuse some models.

Therefore, you need to consider the most popular options for stoves in order to find out which one to choose and make yourself.

Potbelly stove for working off - simple and cheap

This is exactly the option that is not very suitable for use in rooms where people live. The explanation is simple - when burning, oil waste emits a specific smell, even if a good hood is arranged.

For manufacturing you will need sheet metal thickness 4-5 mm, from which all the necessary parts will be cut. You also need a pipe for the manufacture of some elements of the stove and chimney.

In the presented diagram, all dimensions of parts that need to be prepared.

• An accurate marking of all elements is made on a metal sheet and cut out with a grinder. All the edges of the parts are carefully cleaned.
• In the prepared the right size round holes are drilled along the height of the pipe. It will connect the upper and lower containers of the stove.
• A hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper plane of the upper tank, in the place indicated according to the scheme. It is offset from the center to the left and will be designed for the chimney pipe. On the bottom wall, the hole is offset to the right side of the circle, and the connecting pipe will enter into it.
• The two circles are welded to a piece of pipe that will define the thickness of the top tank.
• The lower part of the stove is made in the same way. Only the pipe entry hole is cut in the center of the circle. In addition, another one is cut out, which will serve as a neck for refueling the furnace. A sliding cover is attached to it.
• Three or four legs are welded onto the bottom solid plane.
• For rigidity, the upper tank is connected to the lower metal brackets.
• To keep the oven beautiful and not rusty, all welds are well cleaned, and then all surfaces are painted with a protective heat-resistant paint.
• The last stage in the work is the connection of the stove to the chimney.

Such a furnace works as follows: mining is poured into the lower tank, then with the help of a splinter or rolled paper, it is ignited through the hole. The sliding cover on the opening is closed after the waste inside the tank is lit. Oxygen entering through the openings in the pipe that connects the two tanks contributes to the intense combustion. Hot air passing through the top of the oven heats it up to high temperature, so a kettle can be easily heated on its surface. Since there is always spent fuel in the garage, there will never be problems for refueling the stove-stove.

Potbelly stove from an old barrel or pipe

This stove can be made from an ordinary metal barrel or pipes of a certain diameter. It is quite suitable for installation in a residential dacha, and with a beautiful, neat design, it can also be suitable for a residential building.

1. At the required level of the future furnace, two rectangular holes are marked and cut out, which will be the entrances to the firebox and ash pan.
2. The cut pieces are useful for making doors. They are framed with metal strips, bringing them to the desired size, and a special handle with a latch is installed.
3. About ten centimeters below the firebox door, angle brackets are welded inside the barrel or pipe, on which the grate will be laid.
4. The grate can be independently welded from the fittings.
5. If the stove is made from a pipe, its bottom and top are welded.
6. Legs are welded to the bottom bottom part.
7. A hole for the chimney is cut in the top panel, and a pipe is welded into it.
8. Then the doors are installed on the fixed hinges. According to their location, a hook for the lock is marked and fixed.
9. In order for the oven to have an aesthetic appearance, all welds must be carefully cleaned. If then the oven is covered with heat-resistant paint, then it will be impossible to distinguish it from the factory product.
10. Then, when the stove is completely ready, it is connected to the chimney brought out to the street.

Generally , good option potbelly stoves, if there is enough room for it in the room, since this model will take up a fairly large area. It should be noted that the top panel of the potbelly stove is large enough, and you can safely install a kettle or, for example, a frying pan on it.

Stove stove from a bad gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost ready-made shape for a good potbelly stove.

• The top of the cylinder with a tap is cut off, and a plug is subsequently welded onto this place.
• A square hole is cut in the bottom of it, which will serve as an entrance to the firebox. The cut-out part should also not be thrown away. It is scalded, and thus the door leaf will be ready.
• A handle lock is attached to it, and the door is installed on the welded hinges.
• Holes are made on the wall of the cylinder, which will be the bottom of the future stove - they themselves will play the role of a grate.
• A box made of thinner metal is fixed under them by welding. It will be an ash pan for dumping waste from burnt firewood, at the same time playing the role of a blower. The door must also be fixed to the ash pan.
• After that, the legs are welded - they can be made from a metal corner or pipes.
• A round hole is cut out in the upper rear part of the stove, and a chimney is welded into it.
• If necessary, you can arrange a hob on top. To do this, on the top of the cylinder, it is enough to weld a frame made of steel reinforcement. It is quite possible to place two objects on such a hob - for example, for cooking and heating water.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is perfect for both a garage room and a room in a country house.

The experience of how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a cylinder with its vertical arrangement is shared on a video by one of the home craftsmen:

Video lesson on building a stove from a gas cylinder

Potbelly stove made of rectangular sheet steel

This is perhaps the most optimal, aesthetic, compact version of all the bourgeois offered above. It is best suited for heating living quarters. The design of this stove is clearly visible in the two presented diagrams.

Compact, simple in execution "Gnome"

The first of them shows the Gnome stove. It has a simple structure: two chambers - a firebox and an ash pan, a chimney and legs.

The second diagram shows a more complex internal structure potbelly stoves, which will help her keep warm for more long term... This potbelly stove is worth considering.

• For the manufacture of this stove, you will need sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm, an angle of 5 × 5 cm, a chimney pipe, a cover for a burner.
• Marking is done on metal sheets and all the necessary details are drawn: the walls of the furnace, the bottom of the stove, the hob; grate, two internal metal plates directing the flow of burnt gases, their afterburning, and stopping the rapid release of heat.
• In the front wall of the stove, two rectangular holes are cut for the firebox and blower. Here, subsequently, doors with locks and latches for them will be fixed on the hinges.
• A neat opening for the burner is cut in the upper plane (depending on the size of the purchased part), as well as a hole for the chimney.
• Legs are fixed to the lower, bottom part.
• The place where the grate will be placed is marked on the side panels. The corners are welded to these places, they will become the brackets for the grate.
• In order to make a grate, you can drill a large amount of round holes, or weld a grid from reinforcement.
• In the upper part of the potbelly stove, at a distance of 16 cm from the hob, a plate is welded, having a length of 8 cm less than the depth of the stove, i.e. it should not reach the rear wall of the furnace body by 8 cm.
• The same plate is welded to the back wall, 8 cm higher than the first plate, it should not reach the front panel also by 8 cm.Thus, after installing all the parts, it is formed labyrinthine a corridor through which hot air will pass, heating these plates, and not allowing heat to immediately go into the pipe.
• Next, you need to mount together all the parts of the stove by welding. All joints of parts are necessarily reinforced with a metal corner.
• Last of all, the chimney is welded and all welds are cleaned.
• To give the potbelly stove a spectacular look, it is painted with heat-resistant paint.

Rules for the safe installation of a potbelly stove

In order for a homemade one to bring only comfort and warmth to the house, and not create problems, it is necessary to follow safety rules.

• The furnace is installed on a fire-resistant surface. It can be arranged from tile or in the form of brickwork. The walls around the stove also need to be protected from overheating. This can be done with fire-resistant special drywall or other non-combustible material.
• Do not place flammable materials near the firebox.
• The room where the oven will be located must be arranged good system ventilation. This is important to avoid the possibility of carbon monoxide accumulation in the room.
• For the manufacture of any potbelly stove, it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

The potbelly stove will serve both effectively and for a long time, it will be a good helper in household chores and will warm you on winter evenings. The main thing is to think over the model well, make it carefully, and observe all the requirements for safe handling during operation.