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Within the territory of suburban area it will not hurt to build a cool room for storing pickles, fruits, vegetables and other food products. In this regard, it is worth considering how to make a cellar in the country with your own hands. By completing all the steps step by step, you can create a reliable and durable storage.

Even a small design allows you to store a lot of food

The cellar is usually located in a separate place on the street or under a residential building. Its main purpose is to store food. Due to the device, shelves and other devices, it is possible to increase the functionality of the room.

Classification of cellars by the level of burial:

• underground structures are arranged in dry places;
• semi-underground structures are being built in wet places with medium occurrence groundwater;
• aboveground structures are made when groundwater is too close.

Note! On an area with too high humidity, a special cushion of sand and gravel should be arranged. It will separate the structure from the groundwater.

The construction of a cellar does not require obtaining permits from any supervisory authorities, however, the developer must in any case decide on its location, taking into account some of the nuances. The area should be chosen as dry as possible, away from trees.

Do-it-yourself cellar in the country step by step: basic work

After choosing a suitable place for a summer cottage, you can start basic work. The listed steps are relevant for underground and semi-buried structures. As for the aboveground structures, they have a slightly different construction technology.

Pit preparation

When digging a pit, the points below must be taken into account without fail:

• the depth of the pit is determined by the structure of the building;
• the area of ​​the dug pit should be slightly larger, since a certain part of the space will be occupied by walls and a floor;
• it is possible to avoid shedding of earth from the side walls by means of formwork;
• the excavated soil should be left for embankment and design of the structure.

Important! Do-it-yourself cellar under the house deserves special attention. In this case, the need to lay floors completely disappears, since this function is successfully performed by the floors of the first floor.

Base device in the form of a floor

Most suitable option is the fill of the bottom plane concrete mortar... For this, all garbage is removed from the pit. The surface is leveled and compacted, after which it is covered with a layer of sand 15-20 cm. waterproofing membrane and reinforcing mesh, then concrete is poured.

Thus, when wondering which floor in the cellar is better to arrange, first of all, you should pay attention to the concrete base.

Erection of the walls of the structure

The sides of the structure must be able to withstand the ground pressure. Basically, when they are erected, they are used:

• concrete mix;
• building blocks;
• brick;
• wood.

Floor laying

The first option for floors is wooden beams. Bearing elements are laid with edges on opposite walls, after which they are sheathed with boards. A waterproofing membrane is spread on top.The second option is to use ready-made reinforced concrete slabs... They are durable, therefore they are popular. They are laid on the end parts of the walls, after which they are covered with earth.

Creation of high-quality ventilation

Constant air exchange will make it possible to avoid the appearance of mold and rot in the room, and will also allow you to maintain an optimal temperature regime. For the ventilation device, two pipes must be installed. One of them will be inlet and the other will be outlet.

Suitable for ventilation plastic pipes medium diameter. However, their dimensions depend on the volume of the room. Supply elements are usually located on one side, 20 cm from the floor, and exhaust - on the other, 30-40 cm from the ceiling.

The problem with a high level of groundwater: do it yourself cellar

A certain category of developers may have the following dilemma: if the groundwater is close - how to make a cellar? It should be noted right away that this is quite possible. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to make a circular drainage of the site on which construction is planned.

Perforated elements are located below the depth of the soil along the perimeter of the excavation. Their slope should be approximately 2 cm per running meter towards a well or sewage pit. The pipes should be backfilled with rubble and wrapped in geotextiles.

If the floor and walls are made of reinforced concrete, then high-quality waterproofing should be made from the inside and outside.

A large plastic container can be used as a sealed room. It is completely buried in the ground. By arranging a plastic cellar in the country with your own hands step by step, you can avoid mistakes associated with waterproofing the structure.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself work after the construction of the cellar: photo + additional recommendations

Ensuring unimpeded ascent and descent is carried out with the help. Its width should not be less than 40 cm, otherwise movement can be very difficult. It is allowed to make a slope up to 75 degrees. The material can be wood, metal or concrete.

To store supplies, you need to build special shelves or racks. Usually, a 100x100 bar is used for their manufacture. The height of the structure depends on the height of the room itself.

The cellar is one of the most necessary premises v household... If you build it correctly, then in the cellar it will be possible to store not only preserves and fresh vegetables, but even meat, dairy products and eggs.

By following the advice from the article, you can build a cellar with your own hands from scratch. We will tell you how to properly dig a pit, make walls, a floor and a roof in it, and also consider the main types of basements that can be used in a household.

DIY cellar construction
Views	Construction stages	Additional work	What do you need to consider?
Terrestrial Earthen Semi-recessed Wall-mounted	At the initial stage, a dry place with a low groundwater level is selected. After that, they begin to dig a pit, erect walls and fill the floor. At the final stage, the ceiling is mounted and ventilation is installed.	Inside, they must equip waterproofing and supply and exhaust ventilation. it necessary condition to maintain the indoor climate.	During construction, the density of the soil and the level of occurrence of groundwater are taken into account.

How to build a cellar with your own hands

The cellar under the house has certain advantages over free-standing buildings. Firstly, it can be done even at the stage of building a house. Secondly, it is very convenient to use: you don't need to go outside to store vegetables or take them out for consumption.

However, the construction of the storage also has some difficulties, which will be discussed below.

What you need to build

Before making a basement under the house with your own hands, you need to take into account several features (Figure 1):

• The pit must be deepened by at least one and a half meters. This will create an optimal temperature regime. If the room is deepened less, the temperature in it will rise above +8 degrees, which negatively affects the storage of fresh vegetables.
• It is imperative to determine the level of occurrence of groundwater. As a rule, it is carried out at the stage of building the foundation of a house, but if you decide to build a storage facility in an existing building, you can determine the water level yourself. To do this, you need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep and observe how intensively it is filled with water within a week. It is better to do this in spring or after heavy rains in autumn, when the groundwater level is at its maximum.

Figure 1. Drawings and diagrams for building a basement with your own hands

If the water is at a level of less than a meter, you cannot build a basement under the house. With an indicator of up to one and a half meters, it is possible to equip a storage facility, but for this it is imperative to drain the soil and the room itself.

Note: It is best to deepen the room by two meters or more. This will create a consistently low temperature suitable for storing vegetables and other foods.

A necessary step is also the selection of building materials. The floor can be made of earthen, plank or concrete, while the walls are better erected from ceramic bricks, concrete blocks or stone. It is not recommended to use silicate bricks and cinder blocks.

How to choose a place for a cellar

When building above-ground or semi-recessed structures, you can choose almost any place on the site. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of water on it. If the basement is located under the house, the choice of location will be very limited.

When selecting a place for underground storage, take into account:

• Density and composition of soil- it must be loose enough so that you can dig the foundation pit yourself. If the house is on a rock, construction will have to be abandoned, since it will require the involvement of heavy equipment, which physically cannot be driven inside the building.
• Groundwater height is a key indicator. It is best that the floor of the storage facility is at least half a meter from the level of occurrence of underground streams. If you do not comply with this condition, the basement will begin to underfloor, even with the arrangement of high-quality waterproofing.
• Vault login should be in a place convenient for you (Figure 2). For example, in a garage, hallway, or next to a kitchen. It is better to cover the entrance with a hatch from above, and make a staircase for the entrance. How exactly you will go down inside must be determined even at the design stage and digging a foundation pit.

Figure 2. Arrangement of a manhole to enter the cellar under the house

After procurement of materials and determination of the site, you can proceed directly to construction work.

How to make a cellar with your own hands

Basement construction is carried out in several stages, which should be carried out in a clear sequence. First of all, you need to determine the size of the storage. As a rule, a room with an area of ​​5-8 square meters will be sufficient for home use.

However, it should be borne in mind that the foundation pit should be approximately 60 cm larger on all sides. This space will be needed for the construction of walls and laying a layer of waterproofing.

You can see the main stages of construction in the video.

Pit

The first stage is digging a foundation pit. To do this, you will need standard tools: a shovel, a pickaxe and a container for removing soil (Figure 3).

Note: To dig a pit, it is necessary to completely remove the floor in the room under which it will be located.

Figure 3. Digging a pit for underground storage

Traditionally, a pit is dug to a depth of 2.5 meters under the house. In the future, taking into account the floor and overlap, the height of the room will decrease slightly, but it will still be sufficient even for a tall person.

If the groundwater is close to the surface, it is advisable to additionally dig a drainage well, in which condensation and excess water will accumulate.

Building walls

Walls in underground storage are usually made of bricks or aerated concrete blocks. However, reinforced concrete walls are more popular. They are done like this (Figure 4):

• A reinforcing mesh of rods with a section of 10-15 mm is installed along the perimeter. It is advisable to fasten them together not by welding, but with special hooks or pieces of wire.
• Formwork can be made from any materials at hand, even from wood scraps.
• High-strength concrete is used to fill the walls, adding a small amount of crushed stone to it. The filling is carried out in stages, 10-20 cm each, carefully compacting each layer.

Figure 4. Construction of walls

The top of the fill should be at the floor level. It will take several weeks for the solution to completely dry and harden. Only then can the formwork be removed.

Floor

In storage facilities, concrete floors are most often made, as they resist groundwater better than earthen ones. In addition, through such a floor, rodents and other pests cannot penetrate into the room.

The construction of a concrete floor is carried out in several stages.(Figure 5):

1. At the bottom we do sand pillow... The sand is moistened with water and compacted so that its layer is at least 20 cm. It must be absolutely even so that the concrete floor does not begin to bend in the future.
2. After the sand, a layer of gravel is laid and it is also leveled and tamped.
3. Lay the next layer waterproofing material... You can use special polyethylene or ordinary roofing felt. This will help to strengthen the concrete floor and protect the room as much as possible from water penetration.
4. A reinforcing mesh made of rods of at least 5 mm is laid on the waterproofing and the structure is poured with a layer of concrete of 10-15 cm.

Figure 5. How to make a floor in a cellar with your own hands

As with walls, concrete takes some time to dry and harden. Therefore, you cannot walk on it for the first few weeks.

Roof

It is difficult to make a roof (or overlap) for a cellar under an already finished house from slabs, therefore, more often for these purposes, wooden beams are used, between which a layer of insulation is laid. This design allows you to protect the underground storage from the penetration of heat from the house.

Floor beams from the bottom are hemmed with a continuous shield covered with a heat-insulating film. Insulation (glass wool, foam or mineral wool) is laid between the beams. It is not worth saving on thermal insulation: the thicker and more reliable the layer is, the more stable the temperature in the storage will be. From above, the insulation is re-covered with a film and the structure is sewn up with boards, plywood or OSB.

The manhole cover is made according to the same principle, but it is better to make it two-layer, placing heat-insulating materials in the center.

Types of cellars

There are several types of cellars, each of which has certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, underground provides a stable storage temperature, but building it requires certain skills. It is much easier to build a ground one, and the building itself is suitable even for regions with a close groundwater table. However, in such structures, it is more difficult to provide the necessary thermal insulation.

The main types of cellars

Basement types differ in the degree to which the structure is buried in the soil. For example, a ground-based one is a full-fledged building with a foundation slightly deepened into the soil.

There are also underground cellars (undergrounds), which are most often equipped with residential building or a garage. Semi-buried and earthen structures are similar in design. The only difference is in the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For small areas, wall structures that are simply attached to the main building will be optimal.

Terrestrial

An above-ground cellar means a small room or even a box with a layer of insulation.

It is not difficult to build it with your own hands, since they are small and require minimum costs materials and time. In addition, they are excellent for areas with high underground streams (Figure 6).

Note: It is best to build a surface structure in July, when the water table is at its lowest.

Construction is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Pick up a dry area on a small hill. Upper layer vegetation is removed and a small depression is made in the soil (about 40-70 cm deep).
2. Pit bottom tamped and covered with a layer of drainage (coarse sand, expanded clay or broken brick). The layer of such material should be about 10 cm.
3. Above 15-20 cm of oily clay is laid, in which bricks must be placed at a minimum distance from each other. The side walls of the pit are strengthened in the same way.
4. Height brick walls above the ground surface should reach 35 cm. This elevation serves as a foundation.
5. For walls first, the frame is mounted, which is sheathed with thick boards on both sides. In the center, lay or fall asleep any available thermal insulation material(sawdust, crushed stone or mineral wool).

Figure 6. Drawing and photo of the ground cellar

The outer part of the walls is sheathed with dense material to prevent drafts inside the room. At the entrance, a vestibule with an external and inner door... This will provide additional thermal insulation. For ventilation, a pipe is made, which is covered from the outside. mosquito net... To prevent flooding, a blind area and several drainage ditches are made around the perimeter, and a gable roof is equipped and covered with any available roofing material.

Earthen

The construction of an earthen basement is very simple, and it can be built from almost any available materials. As a rule, a dry site on an elevation is chosen for construction, preferably with dense soil.

Note: Earthen cellars are excellent for storing potatoes, since the tubers practically do not sprout, do not dry out or wrinkle.

The construction of an earth storage is carried out according to the following technology(Figure 7):

• They dig a pit with walls at a slight slope to prevent soil shattering. If there is sandy soil on the site, the walls are strengthened with boards or other supports. In addition, this will extend the service life of the premises and create a favorable microclimate inside the storage facility.
• The floors are made adobe by adding crushed brick. The floors should be 15 cm thick.
• The ceiling is made of poles, covered with a clay mixture and earth from the outside. The thickness of the earthen layer should be about 45 cm in order to protect vegetables not only from summer heat, but also from the winter cold.
• The gable roof is covered with a lung natural material(for example, branches or straw). It is better to lower the roof slopes to the ground. At severe frosts it can be additionally insulated.

Figure 7. Drawing of an earthen cellar

It is better to place the racks inside the earthen cellar on both sides of the aisle for ease of use of the room.

Semi-recessed

This type of storage is perfect for an area with a high groundwater level, since its floor is no deeper than one and a half meters from the earth's surface (Figure 8).

To build a semi-buried basement with your own hands, they pull out a shallow pit, then make a low foundation, and the walls are built of concrete, brick or stone.

Figure 8. Drawings for the construction of a semi-buried cellar

The overlap is made from a slab mixed with clay. It will protect inner space from moisture penetration and temperature fluctuations. Additionally, the roof can be covered with roofing felt, and heat-insulating material can be applied to the walls.

Wall-mounted

The main advantage of a wall cellar is that it saves space on the site. In addition, it is not necessary to specifically choose a dry place for it, since the building is being built close to the house (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Drawing of the wall cellar

How to build a surface cellar next to a house or other building? Any materials can be used, but they must be treated with hot bitumen for waterproofing. A blind area is made around the perimeter and drain pipes are installed to drain moisture, and the roof is covered with roll material.

This is the most simple construction cellar, which can be easily done with your own hands from scrap materials. However, if you plan to use such storage for a long time, it is better to use high-quality brick, concrete and high-quality thermal insulation.

More useful information you will learn about the construction of dry cellars from the video.

For owners of private houses, a cellar is an irreplaceable building for storing food for a long time. are arranged below ground level.

This design has many advantages - the place on the site remains free, a stable temperature is maintained throughout the year. The overlap of the cellar, made in accordance with building codes, must ensure the strength of the structure, maintain the required temperature and humidity conditions.

Before starting the construction of a cellar with your own hands, you must consider the following points:

• work begins with the layout of the premises;
• determine the level of occurrence of groundwater. Waterproofing the premises is necessary if the groundwater level is above the cellar floor. For this, as a rule, roofing material and bricks are used. - important point which affects the temperature and humidity of the room.

At the end of the work related to the construction of walls and waterproofing the premises, the question arises - how to overlap the cellar.

Floor types

To ensure the tightness of the cellars are used various designs which apply:

• solid reinforced concrete slabs;
• reinforced concrete monolithic prefabricated elements;
• bearing beams;
• wooden structures;
• monolithic flooring on corrugated board.

A common option, practical and reliable, is a monolithic reinforced concrete block made of concrete and a reinforcing cage.

Monolithic overlap

The concrete overlap of the cellar is carried out after the construction of the wooden formwork. The overlap in its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the room. Special supports must withstand the formwork structure after pouring it with concrete and during drying. The formwork is pre-sealed to prevent leakage of mortar during pouring.

After installing the formwork, the frame of the concrete slab is strapped. The reinforcement mesh of the frame should protrude several centimeters from the walls of the cellar on all sides. The interval between the mesh rods is 20-25 cm. A single-layer reinforcement cage provides reliability, but to increase strength, it is recommended to perform a two-layer reinforcement.

Then the process of pouring the concrete composition begins, which forms the future slab; usually, the slab height does not exceed 30 cm. The concrete is poured evenly, continuously, until the entire slab is formed.

During pouring, concrete is subjected to vibration an ordinary board or fittings to prevent the formation of air pockets. Correct filling of the composition will make the ceiling monolithic and durable, which will last for more than a dozen years. After pouring concrete slab should stand for a month until it hardens completely.

According to experts, such a do-it-yourself cellar overlap is durable and effective. High strength monolithic construction allows you to use it as a foundation for the construction of various buildings.

Slabs

The overlap of prefabricated monolithic slabs can be used for different types cellars. For construction works it is required to hire special lifting equipment. In this case, the dimensions of the cellar are adjusted to the dimensions of the slab at the stage of the development of the room.

Several slabs are laid on the cellar. A heat-insulating layer is laid in the hollow spaces of the slabs. The joints between the slabs are filled with concrete. This method of construction significantly reduces the time required for the production of works.

Using beams

Overlapping method on load-bearing beams. How to block the cellar? It is possible to use conventional rails. High durability in quality load-bearing beams the I-beam is also different.

Metal load-bearing beams can be used to cover the cellar. For this purpose, ordinary rails are suitable, which can be purchased at metal depots or at scrap metal collection points.

With this method of erecting the ceiling of the cellar at the stage of building the walls, it is necessary to provide for the presence of special grooves for fastening the load-bearing beams. A ceiling with beams will exert significant loads on the walls, so the walls should be as strong as possible.

Work order:

• The load-bearing beams are placed in pre-prepared grooves in the wall. Beams can be heavy, so it is more convenient to lay them together.
• In the space between the beams, reinforcing bars are mounted, fixed with wire.
• Install wooden formwork and a waterproofing layer is applied to it. After the installation of the formwork, props are set up that can withstand the load of the cement mortar.
• The concrete solution is evenly poured into the formwork without interruption. The solution is compacted with wooden rammers so that there are no voids in the thickness of the structure.

Thermal waterproofing of concrete floor

The overlap requires high-quality thermal insulation. For this purpose, you can use almost any thermal insulation material on the market. A concrete slab made in this way can withstand severe loads. After waterproofing work, the ceiling can be covered with soil from above or additionally protected from the penetration of precipitation by a gable roof.

Wooden structures

Wooden beams are a time-tested material for overlapping. Work order:

• treat all wooden parts of the structure with an antiseptic;
• wrap the supporting surfaces of the beams with two layers of roofing material;
• install wooden beams on the top of the walls of the cellar;
• fix the end part of the beams with small strips, creating the basis for the roll-up boards;
• lay the boardwalk, securing it with self-tapping screws.

Before overlapping with wooden beams, waterproofing is done

We overlap with corrugated board

Monolithic overlapping on corrugated board - modern way to overlap the cellar. The technology does not require significant costs and reduces the time of work.

An I-beam is placed in the grooves on the cellar wall. A sheet of corrugated board is installed on the I-beam. The corrugation is oriented downward expansion. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws at the joints and in the places of abutment to the beams.

Longitudinal reinforcement with a step of 190-200 mm is placed in each rib and tied to a transverse bar placed on top of the sheet with vertical segments. Supports are evenly mounted between the beams to avoid deflection of the corrugated board. Concrete is poured. A month later, the props are dismantled.

In another version, corrugated board is laid out on the inner shelf of the I-beam. Laying is performed along the length of the sheet, i.e. corrugated across the span of the beams. The structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured over the entire thickness of the I-beam.

In the third version, the corrugated board is installed without supporting beams. Installation is carried out with the support of corrugated board and reinforcement on the walls with temporary supporting supports. The corrugated sheet is fixed on the embedded columns with a metal anchor. The reinforcement is welded to the embedded columns at all points of contact. The overlap is recommended to be poured with concrete at a time.

Ventilation

When choosing options for how to close the cellar, you need to think over the installation of ventilation in advance. At the stage of overlapping, it is recommended to make holes for the installation of ventilation pipes in the future.

The safety of products in the storage largely depends on high-quality ventilation. Best ventilation will provide two pipes, one of which will be the exhaust and the other supply. The pipes are placed diagonally in opposite corners, due to which the air circulation will be more intense.

One of the asbestos-cement pipes should be lowered almost to the very basement floor and not reach 15-20 cm. Another pipe should be installed almost at the level of the basement ceiling and protrude no more than 5-7 cm down.

Objects should not be located near the pipes so as not to obstruct the air flow. To prevent rainfall, debris, penetration of insects and rodents from entering the cellar, caps are mounted above the ventilation pipes, and a metal mesh is installed inside the pipe.

Floor insulation

Floor insulation is another important stage construction along with waterproofing and thermal insulation of walls. Thermal insulation layer can be created with cement mortar with wood sawdust about 4 cm thick.

The high level of thermal insulation ensures modern material polyurethane foam. The advantage of the material is ease of installation; it practically does not increase the weight of the insulated surface. The disadvantage is that the material is expensive.

How to fill the ceiling in the cellar - the answer to the question depends on financial capabilities, individual preferences. Right choice will make the room functional and durable.

For storing home preservation and vegetables grown in the country or personal plot, three types of premises are used: completely buried (including basements), semi-buried and above ground. If everything is done correctly during the construction process, then in any of the 3 storage facilities the optimal conditions- darkening, clean air and low temperature (from 2 to 7 ° C). The purpose of our article is to explain how to build a cellar on the street with your own hands, choosing the most suitable design.

Selecting a storage project

For the successful construction of a cellar, a simple rule should be understood: the more the structure is buried in the ground, the easier it is to create optimal conditions for storing agricultural products in it. The diagram below shows how the soil temperature changes at different depths throughout the year. It is easy to see that it behaves more stable on the lower horizons than in the upper ones.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to equip an ideal basement. The reason is in local geological and hydrological conditions, in other words, in the specific composition of soils and high level groundwater. In any case, before building a cellar, the owner of a summer cottage or estate plot must find answers to the following questions:

• how close to the surface is groundwater during heavy rains;
• what is the depth of soil freezing;
• the nature of the underlying soils;
• what area of ​​the yard is allocated for construction.

Note. These questions are especially important when planning a device basement under a garage, shed or private house, since you will have to select and calculate the foundation of the building.

The high level of groundwater is the most serious problem for the construction of underground vegetable storage. Therefore, at the initial stage, it is necessary to experimentally determine at what depth they lie, for example, drill a well or interrogate neighbors who managed to make cellars. If during the flood period the water does not rise above the minus 3 m mark, then you can safely build a completely buried basement in the country house, shown in the photo.

If the aquifers pass closer than 3 m, then the bottom of the cellar or glacier should be made 0.5 m above this mark. This means that you have to build a semi-recessed or ground structure with a bulk top. At the same time, wet and heaving soils around the structure, freezing 1.5-2 m deep, must be replaced with bulk fractions (sand, fine gravel).

Advice. Fighting flooding in a deeply recessed basement is troublesome and not cheap. In order not to have to arrange a full-fledged caisson - a technically complex sealed structure, it is better to leave part of the cellar on top and dump it with earth. An example of a similar structure with original design shown in the photo.

How to make a deep basement

All work on the construction of a buried cellar with your own hands is divided into several stages:

1. Clarification of the layout of the structure.
2. Selection of building materials.
3. Digging a foundation pit, erecting walls and ceilings.
4. Ventilation and lighting installation, interior arrangement.

There are 2 types of underground storage layout - with a hatch and a full-size door at the entrance. The first option is inconvenient to use, but it saves space and therefore is used for basement rooms under garages, country houses and sheds, and sometimes on the street. How a cellar with a lid and a vertical staircase is arranged is reflected in the drawing:

For installation front door one of the basement sizes will have to be increased by at least 1 m in order to make steps along the wall. Another way is to build flight of stairs directly to the door, which is very convenient for moving supplies to and from the store. The drawing below shows a structure with a straight staircase, shown in section.

More information about the construction of the basement is described in the video:

We select materials

The requirements for the structure of the underground part of the cellar are simple - it should not collapse from the effects of moisture, pass heat well and withstand the pressure of the soil. So traditional building materials are suitable for the construction of walls:

• monolithic concrete;
• ceramic red brick (non-silicate);
• cinder blocks;
• different natural stone- limestone, granite, shell rock, sandstone;
• ready-made foundation blocks of the FBS series.

Natural stone masonry

Advice. Use of metal and sand-lime brick is a bug. The first in basement conditions strongly rusts and emits harmful compounds, and the second is destroyed by dampness. Hardware used only for reinforcement concrete fences and coatings.

To cover the basement, you can take a tree - a bar, a log and a slab, or pour a slab of concrete on a steel frame. A more expensive and complex option is a brick vaulted covering, built using wedge technology (each stone is trimmed so as to jam the neighboring ones), or on a solution using templates, it was circled.

The floors are made of three types:

• earthen with the addition of crushed stone (adobe);
• bulk from gravel and crushed stone;
• reinforced concrete.

The first 2 methods of flooring are suitable for cellars dug in dry, dense soils - sandy, rocky, and the like. In the presence of moisture, it is better to perform a screed with a slope towards the pit.

Reference. In the old days, storages were made like a dugout - without stone fences. The earthen slopes were sheathed with wood, after which the pit was covered with logs tamped with slabs, where the insulation was laid - clay and straw.

Basement walls need waterproofing as they will still have to come into contact with moisture. For this purpose, you need to purchase bituminous mastic or roofing material.

We build the underground part

The first step is to dig a pit, whose dimensions are half a meter larger than the dimensions of the future cellar. Then sinuses form between the walls and the ground, allowing you to perform external waterproofing... Dense dry soil can be dug vertically, at an angle of 90 ° to the horizontal, leveling the sides of the pit flat. In loose or wet soils, it is better to dig a pit with slopes of 30-45 ° to the vertical. Also at the stage earthworks you need to dig an inclined trench for the stairs.

Advice. To facilitate labor, it is worth using an excavator that will extract the bulk of the land. You just have to earn extra money on the walls and bottom of the pit.

For the construction of concrete walls and floors, use the following technology:

1. Fill the bottom with sand to a height of 10 cm and tamp it well, pouring water, repeat the same operation with rubble. Install the formwork at the edges and lay a mesh of periodic profile reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm with cells of 15 x 15 cm.
2. Screed 10-12 cm thick from M200-250 concrete with a slope towards the pit or collecting gutter, as described in the video above. Allow the screed to set for 1 week.
3. Install the panel formwork along the walls and fix in it reinforcement mesh as shown in the photo. Do not forget to put embedded parts and lay plastic ventilation pipes upstairs.
4. Pour concrete to the very top of the pit, expelling air from it by immersing steel rods. After 7 days, remove the formwork and lay channels No. 14-20 on the walls in increments of 0.5 m. Weld the reinforcement to them with an interval of 10-12 cm.
5. Assemble the bottom and side formwork monolithic floor... To do this, OSB plywood sheets must be tied to the reinforcement cage and supported from below with wooden beams. Remains to pack concrete mix and wait 28 days until the entire structure is completely cured.

Note. Minimum thickness monolithic wall should be 20 cm. For stone and brickwork this size is 250 mm, and for cinder blocks - the width of 1 stone.

If an inclined staircase leads to the basement, then while the main structure solidifies, work on finishing its walls and forming steps. It is not necessary to use concrete here, slopes and treads can be overlaid with an improvised stone. How the listed works are performed, see the next video:

After the mortar has hardened, be sure to treat the outer surfaces of the walls with a bituminous primer or paste over with roofing material for waterproofing. Then backfill the sinuses with clay (the so-called clay castle). The overlap also needs to be covered with roofing material and covered with a layer of earth, or a beautiful gable roof must be made.

Reference. Now, instead of traditional buildings, you can use more modern solution- a ready-made plastic cellar of a cylindrical shape, completely installed in the pit. Judging by user reviews on the forums, seamless plastic products from the Russian brands Triton and Tingard are popular.

Internal work

To create normal operating conditions, the cellar should be equipped with a natural ventilation system and lighting, as well as racks and bins for storing vegetables. From the inside, the walls and ceiling of the basement will not hurt to plaster and whitewash.

We will give a number of tips for arranging the cellar:

1. Provide ventilation of the storage through 2 pipes - supply and exhaust, then the room will be well dried. The inflow outlet is made 30 cm above the floor, the hoods - under the ceiling. The correct organization of natural air exchange in the cellar is described in detail.
2. For safety reasons, basement lighting is best done through a step-down transformer that supplies a voltage of 12 or 36 volts. Route all wiring in protective plastic bellows.
3. Make racks and shelves from wood treated with an antiseptic. Eliminate metal elements completely.
4. If you have built a small roof over the ceiling, then the ceiling must be insulated. Use polymeric materials that are not afraid of moisture - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam.

The coating is insulated from the outside as well. Will fit here simple materials- expanded clay, clay with straw or sawdust. By the way, the ceiling can be cast from concrete with the addition of expanded clay or polystyrene, then the structure will come out obviously lighter and warmer.

Semi-buried structures

The construction technology of such cellars differs little from the arrangement of deep storage facilities. The pit is dug to a depth of 0.5 m above the groundwater level, after which the work is carried out in the same order. For the construction of the aboveground part, it is better to use warmer and lighter materials - foam block and aerated concrete, the simplest option is double slate sheets with insulation in the middle.

Note. A good way to arrange a semi-buried cellar is to dig it on a slope or a small hill. The earth extracted from the pit will then go to the upper backfill.

In order for the ceiling to withstand the weight of the soil, it is specially made vaulted. For this, a reinforcement or wooden frame in the form of an arch, which is subsequently poured with concrete or bricked. You will learn more visual information about the construction of bulk cellars by watching the video:

Conclusion

As you can see, self-construction of a cellar on the street is not too difficult, although the process itself is long and laborious. If you want to make it cheap and cheerful - then dig a traditional dugout, provided that the soil allows. This option also has the right to life. But over the years of operation (and this is not less than 20 years), any basement can be flooded, since the level of groundwater is a variable quantity. The simplest solution is to add the floor to the detriment of the height of the room, another way is to collect and pump out water from the pit with a pump.

Today, like many centuries ago, the main storehouse of food in private houses remains the cellar. And there is an explanation for this! Not a single refrigerator, even the most modern refrigerator, can hold several dozen sacks of potatoes - this time. And secondly, only in the cellar a certain microclimate is maintained, which allows vegetables and fruits to remain fresh until the next harvest.

Another advantage of an earthen storage compared to a refrigerator is that you can build a cellar with your own hands, using the simplest materials that often gather dust in a barn.

Choosing a site for a cellar

The choice of the location of the cellar is a matter of paramount importance, on which the durability of the structure and, as a consequence, the safety of the stored products will depend. Choose a dry place, preferably on a hill, so that the groundwater reaches the bottom of the cellar no closer than half a meter. If the soil on the site is wet, there are no hills, and the groundwater is located close to the surface, a layer of sand and gravel should be poured directly under the bottom. This will protect the interior of the storage facility from water seepage.

"Weather" in the cellar - microclimate characteristics

In order for the food stored in the cellar not to deteriorate, simply digging a hole in the ground is not enough. It is necessary that certain indicators of temperature and humidity are established in the cellar. Relative humidity in the range of 85-95% is optimal for storing vegetables and fruits, since it does not allow them to dry out and wrinkle. A temperature of 2-5 ° C will protect food from rotting and at the same time preserve useful substances in them. In order to monitor this characteristic, it is advisable to hang a thermometer inside the cellar. You can also make a thermostat for the cellar with your own hands - it will not only measure the temperature, but also maintain it at the desired level.

In order for the products to receive fresh air and airing, it is mandatory to arrange the ventilation of the cellar with your own hands. To do this, a ventilation pipe is brought out to the surface through the roof of the storage facility.

It is also important that the cellar is dark, otherwise the stored tubers may germinate and become unfit for food.

Recessed cellar

If in the selected area there is dense dry soil, and the place is elevated, then nothing prevents the construction of the simplest version of the cellar - buried. This construction of a cellar with your own hands does not require large physical costs, since it is an ordinary pit covered with a roof on the surface of the earth. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is precisely such a cellar that provides the most Better conditions for storing potatoes, onions, carrots and other vegetables.

When digging a pit for the cellar, adhere to a slight slope of the walls so that the soil crumbles as little as possible. After that, the walls are sheathed with boards, wooden slabs, and wattle. You can also lay out the walls with bricks or foundation blocks- such finishing will take longer, but will be more durable.

The floor in the cellar is made of adobe, its thickness is 8-10 cm. A layer of compacted brick rubble spilled with hot bitumen is placed in the base - this protects the cellar from capillary moisture.

The ceiling is made of poles, beams or logs covered with clay-straw grease and a layer of earth, 30-40 cm thick. gable roof, the overhangs of which overlap the pit by at least 50 cm on each side. The roof can be made from planks, hewn slab, clay straw, or other local material.

On average, such a cellar goes underground by 1, 8 m. If the water table is too high and does not allow digging a hole of such depth, then a bed of sand and gravel is made under the floor.

Around the pit, a ditch is dug for drainage with a depth of 50-60 cm. It is necessary to ensure effective drainage of rainwater and melting snow from the cellar, therefore its walls should have a slope.

Concerning internal layout, then it should be comfortable for the owner of the cellar. However, it is customary to place bins for storing potatoes on the left, and shelves with other products and conservation on the right. Bins, as a rule, are arranged with a height of about a meter, with a slatted floor for ventilation. The shelves are nailed at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other.

Recessed cellar: 1 - vegetable bins, 2 - drainage system, 3 - roof, 4 - shelves, 5 - floor.

This is a variant of a buried cellar, but more complicated. This design consists of two parts. The first part is the cellar itself, buried 1.5-2 m into the ground, and the second is a small house - a cellar. In such a cellar, a constant temperature is established rather quickly, and the influence environment on it is minimized. The cellar protects the cellar well from atmospheric precipitation, overheating in summer and freezing in winter. In addition, the cellar can be used as a utility room for storing tools.

The walls of the cellar are made of concrete, stone, red brick, boards, wooden slabs or logs. Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the cellar - roofing material is glued to the walls and floor.

The cellar is built from thick slabs, logs or planks. The roof of the roof is covered with slate or roofing felt.

Cellar with a cellar: 1 - thermal insulation, 2 - whitewash (lime), 3 - blind area, 4 - hot bitumen, 5 - clay castle, 6 - concrete.

Do-it-yourself cellar under the house (summer kitchen, barn, garage)

In this case, the cellar is located under the floor of another building. It is very convenient to use such a cellar, as the entrance to it is located directly from the house, kitchen or garage.

The walls of the cellar are most often made of monolithic reinforced concrete 20-30 cm thick. Sometimes they serve as a foundation for the upper building. Concrete walls must be plastered and covered with two layers of roofing material for waterproofing.

Cellar under the house: 1 - house, 2 - cellar room, 3 - waterproofing, 4 - ventilation pipe.

One of the more interesting options, which is located on a hillside or on a slope. In this case effective area the site is not used, since the cellar is built into the surface of the slope. Let's add to this a relatively small volume land works reducing the cost of building a cellar.

The walls of a semi-buried cellar can be made of concrete, or they can be laid out of bricks or cinder blocks. Cinder blocks are the most unsuitable option that can be used in the absence of another in the event that the storage is being built on a dry place.

The overlap of the cellar is made of a slab covered with clay grease - it will protect it from dampness. After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the slab: roofing material or roofing felt.

Glacier - cellar with a "freezer"

The glacier cellar consists of two sections: an aboveground cellar and an underground ice storage. The walls of the lower compartment are best made of waterproof concrete.

For effective ventilation, such a do-it-yourself cellar is equipped with two ventilation pipes. One of them is an exhaust one, placed under the ceiling, and the second is a running one, does not reach the floor of the cellar by 0.5 m. From above, the glacier is covered with a layer of earth 40 cm thick, turf is laid on it or grass is sown. This embankment thickness, together with ventilation, creates required temperature and humidity in the glacier room.

In order to slow down the melting of ice in the storage, it should be protected from warm air and sun rays... It is necessary to locate the entrance to the glacier on the northern side and protect it with a roof canopy. Trees and shrubs planted around the perimeter of the cellar will add extra coolness to the cellar.

Glacier: 1 - layer of sand and gravel, 2 - ice storage, 3 - cellar wall, 4 - well for melt water, 5 - clay-straw layer, 6, 7 - ventilation pipes, 8 - pipe for water drain.

You can also make a ground cellar in the country with your own hands. In terms of its structure, it is very similar to the semi-recessed version. The difference is that the above ground cellar is not located inside the hillside, but on the surface of the earth. However, they look very similar, due to the fact that the ground cellar is heaped with earth, a layer of which on the roof creates the appearance of a hill.

Above-ground cellar: 1 - sand-crushed stone pillow, 2 - cellar wall, 3 - earth embankment, 4 - clay straw layer, 5 - roofing material, 6 - clay castle, 7 - brick floor.

Vegetable storage - a small ground storage-hut

If you are interested in how to make a cellar with your own hands, practically without exerting physical effort, then you can stop at a vegetable storage - a ground storage shed. This design is more like a log hut or planks than a cellar. The lower part of the logs (0.5 m) is dug into the ground along the perimeter of the building, and the upper ends are tied together.

After construction, the construction of the storage shed is covered with earth and planted with grass or other field plants... It is advisable to use peat soil due to its high thermal insulation properties.

Vegetable storage: 1 - vegetable bins, 2 - land embankment, 3 - waterproofing (roofing material), 4 - lathing.

In fact, we have considered far from all types of cellars that people have invented over hundreds of years of "underground" storage of food. If you are interested in other options, enter the query "cellar with your own hands video, photo" in the search box and you will see that the cellar can take various forms and even, with the right design, become an amazing decoration of the site.