How to fix siding - step by step recommendations. DIY vinyl siding installation: detailed instructions Siding installation technology

Siding is a modern, promising, economically profitable direction in the decoration of buildings different types... The main mission of the cladding is protect the walls from the outside from destructive effects natural factors, as well as give them a special flavor and presentability.

The cladding of building facades with siding does not require large labor costs from the performers. The activity can be performed using the simplest construction tools and in fairly short terms.

Varieties of material

The materials for creating siding are: vinyl, metal, PVC, wood and cement.

If desired, the masters can successfully create imitation other popular materials for home decoration.Depending on the main material, experts distinguish several types of siding.

Vinyl

In fact, these are PVC panels that can successfully imitate cladding made of wood, stone or brick.

Advantages:

affordable price;
light weight of structures;
vinyl cladding will last more than 50 years;
a huge variety of textures and colors;
lack of toxic substances;
resistance to deformation and cataclysms;
operating temperature: -50– + 50 ° C.

In order to avoid possible deformation of the material, the expansion coefficient must be taken into account when installing the nodes.

Wood

If wood siding is expected to be used for cladding country houses, then its additionally treated with special antiseptics under high pressure conditions.

Advantages:

high level of thermal insulation;
presentability;
environmental friendliness.

Cladding a building with wood siding is an expensive undertaking. Wherein this material requires special treatment and special care.

Metal

This cladding is made of steel, aluminum or zinc. For finishing country houses with metal siding it is preferable to use aluminum, which can be painted under a tree.

Advantages:

strength;
durability;
lack of microflora;
resistance to sudden changes in temperature.

Metal siding is susceptible to deformation and corrosion processes.

Cement

The main production material is high-quality cement, to which cellulose is added. This type of cladding is able to qualitatively replace decorative stone.

Advantages:

fire resistance;
reliability and durability;
resistance to moisture and ultraviolet light;
ease of restoration;
lack of processes of decay and mold formation.

The disadvantage of cement siding is considered large weight of the source material, which complicates the installation work.

Read also about facade panels for exterior decoration at home.

Which siding to choose?

If a timber or a solid log was used as a building material, then it is best to use vinyl siding for sheathing the erected log house.

PVC panels reliably protect the building from adverse atmospheric phenomena.

They are light enough, therefore do not create additional load on the foundation. Plastic panels easy to install and clean. Such cladding will significantly extend the service life. wooden house and will give it a unique look. If you sheathe the old wooden house, it will give it a fresh look.

To sheathe a frame house, wooden siding is ideal. This type of cladding looks really expensive and impressive. Sheathing mounted very quickly... In this case, the panels can be installed both vertically and horizontally.

Excellent breathability and lack of toxic fumes- main advantages wood siding... For cladding frame house experts recommend purchasing panels made of beech, spruce, pine or larch.

As for brick building, then when choosing a finishing material, one should take into account the purpose of the building. If this is an industrial building, then it is best to carry out finishing with metal siding. A residential brick house is best sheathed with vinyl siding. He will allow you to successfully simulate other expensive materials.

For finishing houses from foam blocks and aerated concrete, you can successfully use vinyl, metal, as well as basement siding. Ease of installation, as well excellent performance characteristics installed panels will help to refine the facade of the house, it will look beautiful and stylish.

A high-quality siding frame, where insulation is always present, can significantly reduce heat loss and improve the waterproofing of the structure.

Features of high-quality siding:

Uniform panel thickness. Such cladding will not deform and will serve the owner of the building for as long as possible.
The presence of a uniform layer of paint. If the panel is painted unevenly, then most likely low-grade raw materials were used in the production process. Such panels do not withstand mechanical stress, quickly lose their color and deform with temperature fluctuations.
Surface structure. Quality panels are free of chips, stains and cracks. They should not delaminate.
Plastic. All planking parts are required to demonstrate flexibility and strength.
Availability of certificates. When purchasing material for cladding a house, feel free to ask for a quality certificate. The document must contain, certified by the seal, the conclusions of the experts, which confirm the fire resistance and hygiene of the product.

How to calculate the required amount?

A competent calculation of the amount of material required in order to sheathe a house or a summer cottage will allow you to predict the total cost of the event and the term of work.

To organize the calculation process must be prepared in advance: tape measure, calculator, sheet of paper and pencil.

initially a schematic plan should be drawn up at home. This will allow you to calculate as accurately as possible. required amount materials and additional elements. So let's get started.

Divide the facade into separate segments, determine the real area of each wall, and then the facade as a whole.
From the amount received, the area of the door and window openings should be subtracted.
The actual metric characteristics of the ridge and roof will indicate the dimensions of the overhangs. They should be hemmed with spotlights.
For the correct installation of siding panels, it is necessary to determine the true number of platbands, window strips and other additional elements.

After completing all the calculations, you can independently determine the amount of materials and the approximate cost of the cladding.

Since during the process of cutting and installing the panels, a certain amount of material will become unusable, when calculating the total area of the sheathing to its total value it is recommended to add another 15%. Thus. You will definitely not experience a shortage of material when facing a building.

To correctly calculate the right amount siding for the home, the surface area that needs to be covered with cladding, must be divided by the area of one panel... The required margin should be added to the resulting value.

Additional elements:

In order to determine the number of starting strips, the length of the break sections should be added to the length of the building perimeter, and the resulting amount should be divided by the profile size.
The number of outside and inside corners depends on the configuration of the building.
The number of window profiles is determined by the length of the perimeter of the recessed window openings.
The number of finishing strips must correspond to the number of starting profiles.
The number of J-bars is determined by the length of the front joints.
The number of platbands depends on the parameters of the facade segments that need cladding.

How much does 1 m2 cost?

The total cost of cladding a house with siding several factors determine, namely:

surface area to be coated;
the cost of the source material;
the need to install fasteners;
the complexity of the work;
installation of thermal insulation.

Average 1 square meter siding will cost the owner architectural structure about 200 rubles. Wherein the cost of all other works is calculated separately.

Do you know how to sheathe a wooden house outside? Read this article on choosing the best material.

Can a building be clad in winter?

Naturally, it is best to sheathe the house with siding during the warm periods of the year. But, if this event has to be held in winter, then need to remember several important nuances.

Since when exposed to low temperatures, vinyl panels can crack, then this type of cladding is not recommended to be mounted in winter.

As for metal siding, its panels should be installed with some clearance, after all, when warming, the material will expand. Since there is a gap between the panels and the insulation, the owners have no reason to worry about the accumulation of condensation.

How to properly sheathe a house with siding yourself?

Since the technology for installing siding cladding is quite simple, this type of work can be done independently.

When installing cement panels, it is necessary to perform preliminary strengthening of the foundation, this is due to their high weight.

Preparatory work

Walls and surfaces around the perimeter of the house are necessary get rid of mold, dirt, fungi, dust and mosses. Places where such phenomena have been identified should be treated with special antiseptics.

The next step is carefully inspect the walls of the building... If cracks or other damage to the surfaces are detected, they must be wiped with a building emulsion.

The territory of the site must be removed, and then a small canopy should be erected on it to protect power sources and power tools from possible precipitation.

To work you will need:

cross saw;
pliers;
metal ruler;
roulette;
screwdriver;
hammer;
level;
cutter knife;
pliers;
awl;
protective glasses;
hacksaw for metal.

Installation of lathing

So that the construction of siding securely held by the frame, it is necessary to approach its creation as consciously as possible. If the project involves additional wall insulation, then the waterproofing should be placed under the insulation ball, and if not, under the crate.

First, you need to determine the material from which the crate will be made. If it is planned to install wooden or vinyl panels, then both a metal profile and a bar can serve as a frame.

Other types of siding require the installation of a metal crate. If a bar was chosen as the frame material, then it must be thoroughly dried and treated with an antiseptic. After these procedures, you can begin to assemble the crate.

First you need to mark the areas for installation fasteners... The first profiles should be installed in the corners. They should be perfectly flat... Use a building level for control.

Next, you can mount horizontal beams from the bottom and top of the surface that you are sheathing. As soon as everything is ready, you can safely mount the remaining vertical elements over the entire surface plane.

The distance between the profiles should be about 30-50 cm... The lathing is recommended to be fixed directly to the walls of the building with dowels, the holes for which are made with a perforator.

Wall insulation

In order to qualitatively insulate the walls of the building, it is recommended to lay insulation (foam, basalt or mineral wool) between the profiles of the crate. The choice of insulation depends on climatic conditions in the territory where the house is located.

If in winter the air temperature does not fall below -15 ° C then experts recommend using Styrofoam. More severe climatic conditions require the use of mineral wool as insulation.

Insulation follows cover with a waterproofing film... It is attached directly to the crate. For this, a construction stapler is used. A counter-lattice must be installed on top of the waterproofing layer. This will create a ventilation space between the insulation and the panels.

Finishing

Before installing the panels, you must anchor additional elements structures (external and internal units, finishing and starting film, J, H-panels, water supply segments, window film).

First panel fixed on the starting tape, after which, moving upwards, the remaining siding segments are mounted. The last panel must be secured with a finishing tape.

Do not tighten the screws all the way. Between the surface plane and the head of the fastening element, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This will allow the material to expand without harming the siding structure.

So, cladding a building with siding is an ideal, publicly available way to ensure the presentability and durability of a building.

What mistakes can be made when installing siding? Watch the video:

This material will focus on such a process as installation vinyl siding on video and photo examples, we will consider how to perform installation quickly and efficiently.

Fastening the siding to the lathing

A prerequisite for the installation of siding is the ability of the siding to move freely if it is exposed to temperature.

To ensure this, the location of the fasteners must be in the center of the hole provided for the fastening.

The screws must not be fully screwed in. Make sure to provide a slight gap - about 1-1.5 mm.

In addition to self-tapping screws, nails can also be used for fastening. You don't have to use a screwdriver here.

When attaching the siding to the batten, care must be taken to ensure that there is no tension. Otherwise, distortion and improper installation of the next level of siding may occur. Nails should be spaced from each other at a distance of 30 to 40 cm.

Consider the procedure for installing siding

Window openings. First of all, window openings are faced with siding. To do this, use a window strip. It is trimmed to obtain the desired size and mounted on the final strip, which is installed on the inner perimeter of the slope. First of all, the plank is mounted to the lower slope, then to the side slopes, and, finally, to the upper slope.

Basement siding. If your plans include finishing the plinth with plinth siding panels, then these should be installed by you before you start the basic siding. The first step is to mount the starting bar, which is installed strictly in the horizontal plane (checked by the level).

The first panel should be trimmed to fit the corner. When the first panel is installed, you can start fitting subsequent panels. The last panel is also trimmed, taking into account the small gap from the panel to the corner.

From the very beginning, using a level, you need to mark the line, for fastening such an element as a basement ebb, on which the siding starting bar is installed. Next, we proceed to the installation of the vertical H-profile, where the siding panels will be joined. The H-profile may not be used by installing the panels with an overlap, however, over time, dust will clog into the joints and they will become visible.

In addition, in strong winds, siding panels can come off, as they will not have protection at the ends. When these steps have been completed, you can begin to lay the siding panels, which should be snapped to one another from bottom to top.

Each subsequent row of panels is attached to the bottom row and to the lathing. These steps should be repeated over and over again, up to the final plank, taking into account the location of which the top row of siding panels is adjusted.

Well, that's all, now you know the principle of installing vinyl siding, on top of any walls, be it wood or concrete, with or without insulation, and using a metal or wooden crate.

DIY vinyl siding video

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The construction of a private house means not only it interior decoration, but also the cladding of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels from different materials with a lock and an edge. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it will perfectly fit into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

	Siding type	disadvantages
	It can reproduce any texture, looks effective, has a wide range of colors. Sheathing from this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (can be operated at temperatures from -50 to +50), is lightweight and affordable	At high humidity and sharp drop temperatures can deform, is afraid of mechanical damage, has a relatively short service life
	Resistance to fading in the sun and high temperatures (up to +85 degrees), excellent performance strength, resistance to chemicals, non-flammable	High price
	The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature extremes, does not contribute to the multiplication of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms	Low sound insulation, the possibility of delamination of the coating from the metal base at the cut points. Aluminum siding is susceptible to mechanical damage, after which it should be returned initial appearance already impossible
	High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, a variety of textures and patterns on the cut	Insufficient strength, fragility, the ability to catch fire and deformation, difficulty in care, high cost
	The material is able to replace natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, does not corrode, rot, does not contribute to the development of mold and mildew, easy to operate	High price, difficulty in buying (practically not common on the territory of Russia)

When it comes to color solutions, the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).

The vinyl material should be said separately, since it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for decorating the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialty store or on construction market... Besides, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so all the work can be done independently.

Siding prices

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, you need to deal with the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings in Russia.

To choose the right type of material, you should take into account some design differences between horizontal and vertical siding.

Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do this - the installation may end up being incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
No additional perforation. There is perforation at the bottom of the horizontal panels, while the vertical ones do not.

For the rest, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made of the same material, and also require compliance certain rules during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for cladding vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:

The main difference between a ship board and a herringbone is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type being the most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. The types of siding are marked with the Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). The lettering is followed by a number that denotes the width of the panel - for example, the mark S 4.5 denotes a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Block house prices

Block house

Basement siding is a material used to sheath the bottom of a building. They are twice as thick as usual cladding panels, due to which they are characterized by increased strength, are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation, it is not required to additionally strengthen the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is essentially a ceiling siding that is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish the ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.

Spotlights prices

Additional elements

To make the siding cladding look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These additional elements include:

the starting profile is used to install the first row of panels, from which installation work begins;
finishing profile for fastening the row under the roof;
the outer corner and the inner corner cover the edges of the cladding panels laid on the outer and inner corners of the building;
J-bevel is used for cladding the top of the facade and gives it a finished appearance;
J-profile is an accessory used in conjunction with a J-bevel;
The H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all kinds of design solutions;
the molding is a cross between the finish and J-profile, and is necessary for attaching the vertical sheathing at the transition to soffits;
window profile is used for cladding window and doorways;
the ebb serves as a drainage cornice;
platband is required for decorative finishing door and window openings;
the slope is an auxiliary profile used in combination with platbands;
The edging profile provides cover for joints and joints between panels, and can also replace the starting profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above accessories for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of a particular manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.

Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to the installation rules.

General rules

The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points that should be remembered when performing work.

Installation of siding can be carried out in three ways: aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the crate. The first method has one serious drawback - a high price, and it is possible to mount the siding directly on the walls of the building only if they are made of wood and have a fairly flat surface. The easiest way to install the panels is to pre-clad the facade with crate, which will not only make the cladding even and neat, but also speed up the work.
In the case of log buildings, all cladding works are carried out only when the structure completely shrinks.
Vinyl panels are recommended to be attached exclusively to factory holes - you should not punch the material, as this may adversely affect its service life.
Wooden elements are fastened with galvanized hardware, otherwise the tree will quickly start to rot.
It is better for beginners to start installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time they move to the front, the person has already developed certain experience and skills.
Installation of siding panels is performed from the rear corner with an overlap in rows from top to bottom, which makes it possible to make the joints between them less noticeable.
When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third installed row, otherwise all the others will also be skewed.
Highly important point is that, under the influence of temperature, the panels can expand and contract - if the strength of the fasteners is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently deform.
Fasteners are hammered exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, you should carefully widen the hole with a puncher (you cannot hammer nails into the end of the hole, otherwise you can seriously damage the panel).
Siding elements do not need to be nailed tight - they should move slightly from side to side.
Error 2. Installers screw the self-tapping screws all the way into the perforation, this cannot be done
When attaching the panel to the frame, you do not need to push it up or down: the force is applied from the bottom up until the connection of the upper element snaps into the lock of the lower one.
At the joints of cladding panels with additional elements, a gap of 6-12 mm should be left. If the work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.
Fasteners should be driven in as straight and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, as the crack will expand over time.

The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a specific sequence - only in this case, the result will fully meet expectations.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step-by-step instructions for installing siding

Siding installation begins with calculating the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be broken down into simple geometric figures, measure their areas and add up the resulting numbers. In addition, it is necessary to draw up a detailed diagram of the building cladding, which will indicate all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total amount of material will go to fit and trim, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.

After purchasing the siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of the lathing must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips and flaws. If the work is planned to be performed in winter time, the siding should be allowed to "lie down" outside at a temperature not lower than 15 degrees.

In addition, you will need to prepare fasteners (screws, nails, staples), which will enter the material by at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for facing the building.

Electric saw. To speed up the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (hand or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If installation is carried out in a cold season, move the blade as slowly as possible.
Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially for polyvinyl chloride) are quite simple to process, and with the help of such a tool, you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
Perforator. Required for drilling holes for fasteners.
Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of the panels when installing siding under the roof or under the openings.
Tool for dismantling siding. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it is better to get the right tool, a bit of a hook.

In addition to all of the above, to perform the work, you should prepare a hammer, jigsaw, level, tape measure and a piece of chalk, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.

Stage two. Surface preparation

High-quality preparation of the walls is a guarantee that the siding will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the moisture-proof material (it is not necessary to lay the waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all the places where the siding will come into contact with the walls of the building and holes). Before starting work from the surface, you must dismantle old finish, as well as all elements that may interfere with installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage three. Manufacturing of lathing

Before installing the battens, you should check the reliability of all elements of the building: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. For the construction of the frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) are taken without signs of rot, stains or deformations, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent combustion). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, the frame guides are mounted vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional slats are installed around door and window openings, below and above the facade, as well as where additional accessories (for example, lanterns) will hang.

All parts must be mounted evenly, from time to time checking them with a level. You can fix the elements of the crate in any way, but the best option are ordinary nails. If the frame is mounted on concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls with a puncher in advance. The places where the siding will come into contact with building materials should be tightly sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage four. Panel mounting

The most important stage of building cladding is the installation of panels on the crate. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the above rules. The actual algorithm for installing siding panels is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will start. To do this, find a point in the lower guide of the frame, step back 50 mm from it, put a mark and slightly screw in the self-tapping screw. Move consistently along the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in self-tapping screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2. Pull the twine between the corner marks, mark the places on the battens of the crate where the corner profiles will be installed (it is with them that the installation begins). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and place the marks along the edges with chalk, then attach it to the crate. The rest of the corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and the fastening must be started from the upper hole, from top to bottom.

Step 3. After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing strips.

Step 4. Moving around the perimeter of the rope, indent 6 mm from the edge corner profile and attach the start profile, and then the first start panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also fit as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for possible thermal deformation of the vinyl. Do not fasten the panels too tightly - there must be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel upwards, otherwise it may crack or deform.

Step 5. After fixing the accessories, the cladding panels are installed, which is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they must be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. The panels should be placed on top of each other in height: the lower lock of the higher element enters the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on design solution... If the panel covers the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the extra piece so that it fits between the trim or other accessory.

Step 6. The last top row is installed only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail it close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the panel lock of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm from the obtained figures for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the top part together with the lock.

Step 7. On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front side. Insert the trimmed part into the bottom panel and snap it into the lock joint with a slight movement.

In the photo - installation of the finishing strip

Step 8. The final step is the cladding of the roof gables. The work is carried out as follows: The J-profile is attached along the corner of the pediment (if more than one element is required, you need to fasten the second with an overlap of 2 cm).

Step 9. Measure the angle of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a self-tapping screw directly through the panel.

On this, the installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.

It should be noted that vertical siding is mounted in a similar manner. The only difference is that the lathing for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Removing damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and it is necessary to put a new one in its place, the work is carried out as follows.

Place the dismantling hook between the two panels: the damaged one and the one above.
Pick up the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
Pull out the fasteners with a nailer - if they are too tight, you can simply hammer them into the frame elements.
Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and fix it with hardware.
Using the same hook, slide the top panel onto the lock when it is laid down, and snap it into place.

Caring for siding panels

Siding panel cladding is much easier to maintain than other cladding. It needs to be rinsed from time to time with a hose, and use a soft brush or rag to remove stubborn stains. In order not to damage the material, do not use abrasive household products and tough improvised means. In addition, siding should not be cleaned. chlorine bleach, organic solvents, substances that contain acetone or are used to polish furniture. Contamination from its surface is well removed with a solution of water with washing powder, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove the chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

Installation of metal siding under a log: step by step instructions Siding accessories

How to make a do-it-yourself siding crate

Nowadays, many people choose siding for finishing external facades.

He gained quite a lot of popularity, which can be explained by quite significant advantages:

Profitability;
Durability;
Impact resistance;
Moisture resistance;
Aesthetics.

In addition, the installation of siding with your own hands is simple, and the finished cladding does not require special care, it is enough sometimes to wash it from under the hose with water.

In order for the finished work to please the eye for a long time, the siding installation technology must be observed.

Material calculation

We take a blank sheet of paper and draw a sketch own home with arrangement of all sizes.

It is necessary to calculate the total length of the outer corners of the building and divide by the length of the standard element " outside corner". It should not be forgotten that the joints of these elements are not desirable, as they do not look quite aesthetically pleasing. It is better to buy an element than to close the corner with scraps.
The requirements for the "inner corner" element are the same. Setting a profile as inner corner often done to close the joint between the wall and the roof. However, this is done if the cornices are also faced with siding. If not, then we set the finish bar.
Starting profile or starting siding bar. We calculate the length based on the perimeter of the house minus the width of all doors.
If there are junction points for multi-level buildings, then the installation and installation of siding is carried out using J-profiles.

The near-window profile is about 3 meters long and is required for framing windows and doors.
How is siding installed if the length of the panels is less than the length of the wall? In this case, the use of H-profiles is appropriate. They are 3.66 meters long and give a beautiful and finished finish. The place for their installation is chosen independently.

The total number of siding panels can be calculated in two ways. The simplest and most common way is to calculate the area. Calculate the entire area of the sheathed walls of the building, subtract the area of the window and door openings, and then divide by the area of one panel, equal to about 0.75 square meters.

The more complex method requires meticulousness and careful adherence to scale. A detailed diagram of the installation of panels is drawn, all cuts are taken into account, and the total number of panels is counted.

The resulting number must be increased by 5-10%, depending on the complexity of the facade. Installation of profiles for siding with an area of 100 m 2 will require about 2000 self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws, as they are more reliable than nails.

Instruments

The material is calculated, and you need to arm yourself with all the necessary tools, without which finishing is impossible.

You will need the most common tools for construction or carpentry work, such as:

Metal elbow - for setting right angles;
Long level - to determine horizontal;
Chalk - for pulling the cord;
If self-tapping screws are used, then it is better to choose a screwdriver for it, although a screwdriver will also work;
Hammer;
Metal ruler;
Roulette;
Pliers;
Cord;
For cutting the lathing bars - a hacksaw;
For cutting siding panels a hacksaw will do for metal with small teeth, although a grinder can be used instead of hacksaws. It depends on the preference of the worker who will be doing the finishing.

In addition to tools, they prepare and workplace... A workbench is used as a support. If the height of the trim is significant, scaffolding will be needed.

Preparatory work

TO preparatory work include material counting, purchasing the necessary tool, surface preparation and direct installation of the frame. Compliance with all the rules will lead to the best result.

Preparing the walls

If the old house is to be finished, then it is necessary to remove all decorative elements, platbands and the like. All holes in the walls are sealed polyurethane foam... For the frame, either 50 * 50 bars or a galvanized profile are used.

Wooden blocks have a very significant drawback related to moisture. They can be jarred. Given this, it is preferable to use a galvanized profile, although it is more expensive.

If well-dried wood is found, the bars are even, then before installation they must be treated with impregnation in the form of an antiseptic.

Impregnation is necessary even if not dried wood is used. When fastening such bars, the distance in the crate should not exceed 30 centimeters.

The lathing for siding is installed at the corners, around door and window openings and vertically at a distance of about 40 centimeters from each other. First, using a level, corner bars or a profile are installed, then a lace is pulled, and the rest of the crate is attached.

Advice!
In places where street lamps are installed, an attachment element must be provided.

Insulation and waterproofing

The rules for installing siding panels recommend installing waterproofing, even in cases where insulation is not carried out. So, first attached to the wall waterproofing film, then the crate is installed. Thus, we obtain the desired ventilated gap between the wall and the finish.

Siding installation instructions provide for wall insulation. Waterproofing is required, but the fixing pattern is different. Insulation is laid between the bars of the frame. Waterproofing covers everything and insulation and battens.

Then a counter-lattice is made, which is made of wooden slats and is attached to the frame. Thus, the required ventilation gap is created.

Main works

How to install siding with your own hands? First of all, installation is best done in the summer, but not in the very heat and not under the scorching sun. It is best to use a small grinder to cut fittings and panels.

Do-it-yourself installation begins just like a professional one - with the installation of fittings.

Fundamental rules:

Leave a gap of 5 mm, as the siding expands when heated;
Do not tighten the fastening screws to the limit, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm so that the panels move freely;
Self-tapping screws are installed only in the middle of the mounting hole.

First, the vertical outer and inner corners and H-profiles are attached. A 5 mm gap also remains between the base / plinth and panels, cornice and panels. The fittings are fastened every 25 cm.

If it is necessary to join the corners, then the cheeks of the lower element are cut off by about 2.5 cm and put on top corner an overlap of about 2 cm. Thus, a gap between the cheeks of 5 mm is formed.

Internal corners, H-profiles and J-profiles are subject to this principle.

How to install siding correctly? Answering this question and adhering to the installation technology, the installation of horizontal elements begins. First of all, starting strips are installed along the perimeter of all walls to be finished.

With the help of a cord and a level, their straightness and horizontalness are checked. The starting strips are also mounted with a gap.

How to properly install siding, or rather near-window profiles, is quite difficult to explain in words. However, we will find a video at the end of the article, where everything is clearly and in detail set out.

However, it should be noted here that the inner part of the near-window plank is fixed with a finishing panel.

How to install the siding yourself - you need the panel to fit into the lock, either from the starting plate or from the previous panel. The panel should hang freely on self-tapping screws and easily move in its horizontal plane. You shouldn't be afraid that she will fly away.

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular building cladding material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance and aesthetic appearance. Of the positive qualities, it can be noted:

makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
thanks to the large selection of panels, the house can be given an individual style;
high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
installation can be done independently;
is a safe material;
when dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

Metal;
Vinyl;
Basement (fiber cement);
Acrylic;
Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

Vinyl siding is made of polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials from stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are inexpensive, but not resistant to mechanical stress.

Acrylic siding is new finishing material, and in terms of technical indicators is almost similar to vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to impact ultraviolet rays... Panels differ long term operation and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - high cost.

Metal siding comes in steel, aluminum and galvanized steel. This material is strong, durable and safe for the environment... The panels do not change their original shape when the temperature drops and are resistant to oil and chemical substances... Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. There are several disadvantages to metal siding. Rust will form on the panel when the protective coating peels off. There is a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

Wooden siding or facade clapboard is the most environmentally friendly pure material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. It is made from coniferous and larch wood species. To prevent the panels from darkening and cracking, a protective coating is applied to them. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. Outer side the slab has a special coating that protects against moisture and sun rays... The material is non-flammable, and also does not rot and mold. Fiber cement siding resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. The service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The lathing can be made from wooden beams or metal profiles... It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The racks of the lathing are fixed in the opposite direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the lathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the lathing:

The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces treated with an antiseptic.
Using a level and a plumb line, places are outlined for attaching the suspensions. They are placed every 40 cm, they retreat from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from the inner corner - 10 cm.
Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
Bars are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
The rest of the vertical beams are mounted.
With a step of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
Above the plinth, above and below the windows and doors, using a crab connector, horizontal battens are fixed.
Between the racks and under the crate fit mineral insulation, overlap in the joints. Attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
Mineral wool and crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. Fixed to the crate double-sided tape and counterracks.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. Heat insulating material it is put on hangers and fixed with umbrella-type dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the lathing is mounted for installing the siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold areas, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starter bar

Before installing the starting plate, ebb tides are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance of 40 cm between them. When joining, the ebb tides are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first siding sheet is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed by checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starter bar:

from the lower border of the future sheathing retreat upward by 4 cm;
using a level, they make marks on all vertical posts of the crate or make notes on the wall if there is no frame;
the initial plank is set with the upper edge to the marks;
fixed with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
the same distance should be from the edges corner pieces or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

What is the J-profile for?

The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding trim element. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
A regular J-profile is required at the end of a cladding row at the end of a wall, for sheathing the edge of an eaves or for replacing a finish panel.
Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to fix the siding

Fastening of siding is done on the facade of the building or on the lathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
For wood cladding it is recommended to use galvanized fixing hardware.
The fastening of the elements should be done straight and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
Fastening the siding to each other, press on it from the bottom up so that the upper panel snaps into the lower lock.
When installing the planks, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the lathing to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load bearing elements. Attached after the starting profile. Designed to close and secure the edges of the siding, also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting plate, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest of the fasteners are located in the middle of the holes;
the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the strips overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathing wall, a connecting strip is installed to lengthen the panels horizontally. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. The profile sheets should be staggered, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlap length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements... Used to join two horizontal cladding panels when the wall is longer than the cladding material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fasteners are made at the top of the hole, the subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede by 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has a distance of 0.6 cm from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not all the way, but so that a gap of 5-6 mm remains for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For an even and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The end side of the first siding panel is inserted into the corner strip, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. After that, if necessary, pull it up to level the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. Leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. Do not pull the profile up after the lock connection on the starter bar clicks into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in the same way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel is snapped into the lock of the previous one and screwed to the crate.

Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Laying the finishing siding strip

The finishing bar is decorative element which is used for a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Install with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel lock facing up.

Finishing strip installation procedure:

the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
measured the distance from the top of the finish bar to installed panels, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
at the cut panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
at the prepared strip, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock mount of the finish panel and latched into place.

Fasteners are screwed onto the finishing strip through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to get around windows and doorways with siding

Before siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Perimeter inside windows (doors) fix the slats to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower near-window strips, the edges from the inner side are incised by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower platbands are inserted into the groove of the finishing one, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window strips, the "tongues" are wound inward.

If the siding panel does not fit in width under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the required depth along the width of the opening. At the place of the cut, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. An ebb is installed at the bottom of the window opening, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the panels are installed.

Gable trim

On final stage start facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the pediment is insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Take away old skin, ebb and wind boards. The roof material is trimmed so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate for the siding of the pediment is made in the same order as on the walls.

Installation of siding on the pediment:

if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by the cornice, then ebb planks are mounted;
along the perimeter of the pediment, J-strips are fixed or from below the starting one, and from above - the finishing one;
corners are made of metal profiles and external corners are installed;
since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a siding trim is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
the connection of the panels is made with an overlap or with the help of an H-strip;
the top is a ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. For the installation of the panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed from the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough, so it is easy to install with a slight downward bend and fit into the grooves of the J-strip. A click is heard when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip planks. Placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can carry out the installation of siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. Buying building material should be done in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Complementary elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.