Door upholstery with leatherette allows you to increase it performance characteristics- heat and sound insulation. This is a simple operation, so any person can handle it. Next, we will consider all its nuances.

Before you upholster the door with leatherette, you should purchase a certain list of materials:

• Lining.

For this purpose, foam rubber with a thickness of 1-2 cm is suitable (the more, the better). If there is a need for increased thermal insulation of the structure, we recommend that you pay attention to isolon. It is very effective insulation, which is used in many industrial areas. The only negative is that it is much more expensive, but its specifications are many times superior to foam rubber.

• Leatherette for doors.

As a rule, it is sold in strips 110-130 cm wide (you choose the length yourself). This is sufficient for standard designs. If you have a large-sized canvas, you will have to look for options with a larger width. For iron door we take a stock of 10-15 cm. Do not forget that for wooden canvas you will need to make three strips 15-20 cm wide around the entire perimeter. Based on this, make calculations, not forgetting to leave a margin of 5-10%.

• Decorative nails.

In this case, we use furniture counterparts with a wide head. They have a wide range of colors, so you can choose the option that suits your taste. You can also find nails whose heads are covered with vinyl leather - they will be completely invisible in our design.

If the task is to sheathe a metal door with leatherette, then you will need special glue (in the event that there are no holes for nails in the canvas). You can use the "Universal Moment", or similar analogs.

Please note: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant.

Padding the door with leatherette will require certain tools: construction stapler with staples, a small hammer, a utility knife, a set of screwdrivers, scissors, pliers and a brush. You may need a screwdriver to remove the hardware.

Preparatory stage of work

Before sheathe the door with leatherette, it is necessary to perform a number of preliminary manipulations:

• We prepare a place for laying the canvas. Something should be spread on the floor so as not to stain it.
• We remove the canvas from the hinges. A screwdriver with an appropriate attachment will help us with this. If you do not dismantle the canvas, the cladding will be much more difficult, since the hinges, walls and floor will interfere. At the same time, you can clean and lubricate the hinges (the WD-40 is suitable for this). We remove all the accessories: locks, peephole, handles, etc. If there is old paneling, delete it.
• In order for the sheathing of the front door with leatherette to be successful, we thoroughly clean the original surface from dirt. At the end, it can be degreased, for example, with White Spirit (only relevant for metal surfaces). This will provide better adhesion of the adhesive.

We make the cladding from the inside

Now let's look at how wooden doors are upholstered with leatherette from the inside. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• The first step is to make a roller - it is designed to close the existing gap. In some cases, it can fit snugly against the box.
• Cut off a strip of leatherette 15 cm thick.Nail it with staples and a stapler to the canvas, so that it goes 4-5 cm onto it.

Tip: if there is a patch lock, it is better to start nailing from it. Otherwise, start at the top corner where the loops hang.

• With this method, it is necessary to knock off the entire perimeter of the canvas. Having finished with this, we cut the foam rubber (or other lining material). We divide it into strips, 10-12 cm wide. With the help of brackets we fix them around the perimeter, after which we turn them so that they protrude a few centimeters. As a result, we will create a roller.
• Now we cut off a large piece of foam rubber, which will occupy a niche between the strips, preferably with a margin of 1-2 cm for each side. We fasten it with staples (it is better to shoot as often as possible).
• Cut off a piece of leatherette, with a small margin (7-10 cm for each side).
• We turn the edges of the fabric by 6-7 cm and put it in the corner of the canvas so that it goes over the roller. Having retreated from the edge of half a centimeter, we nail the fabric in the corner onto a decorative nail.
• We take the second edge, also turn it up and stretch it well. He must go exactly to the other corner. We make fixation on the second nail. We spread the matter from top to bottom by running our hand over it. It must be carefully smoothed out so that wrinkles do not appear.
• We estimate the evenness of the location of the material - it should have the same distance from all edges. If necessary, make adjustments by removing one of the nails.
• When we are sure of the evenness of the location, we securely hammer in the upper edge (the step between the nails is no more than 10 cm). Check the evenness again. Next, you need to punch the remaining sides and the bottom end in the same way (that is, turning the edges). Remember to smooth the fabric all the time.

This completes the upholstery of the door with leatherette with your own hands. It remains to put the canvas in place and reinstall the fittings. You will first need to make the appropriate holes in the matter. We recommend using a special leather knife (it has the shape of a right-angled triangle).

We carry out work from the outside

If we insulate the door with leatherette outside (from the side of the entrance), then the work is carried out in a different way. It is not required to remove the canvas from the hinges, since we will need to make the markings in the assembled form.

• Close the sash completely.
• With a pencil or marker, outline the projection of the box on the canvas. Simply put, you need to draw along the entire perimeter - so we get the outline along which the sheathing will be made. If we go beyond this line, then the door simply will not close, because the lining will not give.
• We prepare the rollers (as in the previous example). We fasten the lower strip in such a way that it is located end-to-end with the threshold (according to the markings applied earlier). There should be a slight gap, if left unchecked, the material will wear off over time.
• We fix the backing material with an indent of 1 cm. We fix the main part of the vinyl leather (as in the example above).
• Next, we need to create an insulating roller on the other three sides. Now it will be located on the box itself. Moreover, it must be filled with foam rubber in order to prevent cold air from entering the room. Observe the dimensions clearly so that the sash can close normally, and a large gap does not appear.
• At the end, we fix the lower edge of the sheathing and return the removed fittings to their place.

Finally, we can give our design a more attractive look. Furniture nails, decorative lace and our own imagination will help us with this. From a cluster of hats, you can create an intricate shape.

We sheathe the iron sheet

Upholstery of a metal door with leatherette is made according to a completely different method, which is simple. Everything is done like this:

• Cut off a piece of foam rubber (or other lining material) exactly along the entire length of the web, with a small margin.
• Apply glue to the original surface (with a tube or brush). Try to do this as quickly as possible before seizure occurs.

Tip: if you don't have enough skill, you can divide the foam rubber into two parts and first glue one, then the other.

• We take the foam rubber, carefully try it on and press it to the original surface. If we use "Moment", then the decisive factor is precisely the force of pressing, and not the duration.
• Then, with a clerical knife, cut off the excess exactly along the profile of the iron sheet. Next, we apply glue to the upper end of the sash.
• We glue the leatherette on top (we trim at the very beginning, together with the foam rubber). We do this as carefully as possible, so it will be impossible to correct the errors later.
• We stretch the material and carefully check the accuracy of its location. Then we glue on the remaining three sides. At the end, cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

That's all. A door upholstered with leatherette will keep the warmth in the apartment much better and improve the sound insulation of the room. This material does not need any additional processing, but it can be coated protective compound for leatherette - this will extend the service life several times.

It is not always easy to choose an owner when choosing a finish for an entrance door. It is necessary to take care of the availability of high-quality in use and aesthetic material. Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of such handy tools to choose from. They can be dealt with in a domestic environment without resorting to the use of expensive industrial equipment and tools.

The question of how to sheathe a door arises not only when installing a new one, but also when the old one becomes completely unpresentable. Correctly selected material allows not only to improve aesthetics, but also to increase the reliability of the entire structure and provide heat and sound insulation. How to sheathe a door depends solely on the design features, rather than on the financial condition and interior of the apartment. Such "tuning" applies not only to the front door of a private house, it is also true for apartments in apartment buildings.

Actual materials

When the question arises of how to sheathe a door, most often homeowners use the following decorating methods for metal surface:

• installation of laminate;
• powder spraying;
• sheathing with wood or plastic;
• use of artificial leather.

Each of these methods has its own positive and negative properties. In most cases, all operations are carried out independently, since it can sometimes be much more expensive to sheathe a door with invited specialists than to buy a new budget sash. Though independent work can drag on for a longer time, but in the end it will be possible to get the desired result.

The use of lining

Decorative cladding of entrance doors is often done with wooden clapboard. For better processing, it is recommended to remove the fabric from the hinges. Then it is laid on wooden trestles and the sheathing material is prepared.

Work begins with clear measurements. On a sheet of paper, a drawing is preliminarily drawn up to scale, which is supposed to be assembled on the surface. For work, it is advisable to choose a lining from hard wood, as this will serve as a guarantee of its long-term operation.

The use of wooden slats allows you to form any pattern on the surface, from simple vertical or horizontal stripes to complex ornaments.

To hold the wooden frame on a metal surface, it is enough to fix the planks on it along the perimeter with metal screws. Further, the decorative part is attached to the resulting base. The resulting cavity must be filled with insulation from stone wool or expanded polystyrene. This will increase the sound insulation and provide heat retention inside the room.

After the metal door is sheathed with clapboard, the surface must be covered with a protective layer. Wood varnishes are also used.

Use of artificial leather

Artificial leather (kozhvinny) - original, but very high quality material

In search of something else to sheathe front door, traditionally it is customary to use artificial leather. This option improves the sound insulation of the room. The following operations are carried out:

• applied to the treated surface adhesive composition;
• immediately on top of the glue, a layer of foam rubber or a similar material is laid;
• after drying, an adhesive composition is also applied to the ends, and a cloth with leather is placed on top of it;
• for additional fixation at the end, the material is fastened with staples from a stapler;
• fittings are mounted in their places;
• to provide better mount it will turn out with the help of additional self-tapping screws that fix the canvas.

This type of upholstery, like all soft materials, not recommended for use in rooms with animals.

Inexpensive and practical way cladding

To transform the appearance of the metal sheet, you can sheathe the front door with MDF boards... The following operations are preliminary carried out:

• the surface is cleaned of mechanical impurities;
• degreasing is done;
• priming and painting of the treated surface is carried out;
• in some cases, you can pre-paste the surface with vinyl film.

• on the surface of the canvas closer to the outer perimeter at a distance of 100-150 mm, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws;
• the surface of the MDF board to be connected to the door is processed using special glue;
• through the holes we fasten the canvas with self-tapping screws.

The main load in such a situation will fall on the self-tapping screws, and the glue will provide a better fit so that the material does not “play”, but is more solid with the base. After that, you can mount the removed fittings in their places.

VIDEO: Replacing the MDF door trim

The popularity of laminate

Laminate is the most popular choice in cladding

Before sheathing a metal door, you should pay attention to such material as laminate. With it, the exterior of the door is easy to transform. For work, strips with a thickness of at least 7-8 mm are suitable. The material tolerates long-term exposure well ultraviolet radiation without losing color. This property makes it appropriate in the case of external door processing.

Rigid enough strips are able to withstand mechanical force. They withstand medium-strength blunt force impacts without deformation. It should be noted that the laminate has several layers:

• stabilizing paper with paraffin resins;
• protective polymer;
• base made of high-strength wood;
• decorative paper with a printed pattern.

It is most convenient to work with the door on a horizontal surface. This will ensure a better adhesion of the decorative material to base surface... If it is not possible to remove the door from the hinges, then powerful clamps can be used to fix the finish on the plane of the door.

To secure the laminate to the sash, we hit the fittings from the door. Further, in order to sheathe a wooden door, it is enough to use decor and nails. If a sheet of metal is to be processed, then you will need to perform preliminary operations. In this case, wooden planks of small thickness are fixed to the edge of the surface with the help of "liquid" nails.

The laminated board is formed independently. Next, it must be applied over the door and fixed with nails or planted on an adhesive base.

If the canvas is located horizontally, then it is advisable to load the area for better penetration of the glue between the surfaces to be spliced. For vertical door use small yews or clamps. Holes for fittings are preliminarily formed on the shield. It is mounted after the glue has completely dried.

The above materials can be used for cladding both metal and wooden door... This will modify entrance group, combine it with the general style of the house or apartment, as well as provide additional thermal insulation and a sound barrier. Actually, it is precisely for such tasks that any front door is designed.

VIDEO: Upholstery of wooden doors

VIDEO: Upholstery + soundproofing of a metal door + DIY insulation

No matter how trite it may sound, the front door is the face of the house! It not only serves practical purposes, but also allows guests to create an impression of your accommodation. Of course, the desire to sheathe the front door arises, as a rule, when it thermal insulation properties leave much to be desired. However, if you make such a repair well, you can transform the old door structure do it yourself what doorway will receive a new, unique look.

Where to begin?

First you need to take a tape measure and measure the opening. First of all, you need to measure the height of the door. To determine the width, measure the distance between the points of contact between the door and the frame. The depth of the door will be the width of the corners, it can also be determined using ordinary plasticine, a piece of which must be placed between the door leaf and the frame. By closing the door, you will receive an easy-to-measure impression. The received data must be written down, according to them in the store they will help you calculate required amount material. It is better to prepare the opening in advance by dismantling the old casing with your own hands, removing the lock and other accessories.

What do you need?

The turn came to take care of the materials, taking into account their features:

Instruments

Wooden and metal doors are finished a little differently, it also matters which side of the door (outside or inside) is to be finished. However, having bought materials for upholstery in a hardware store, do not forget to stock up on auxiliary tools and accessories, without which repair is impossible. Their list looks like this:

• Corners;
• Decorative strips;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Staples;
• Furniture nails (including decorative ones);
• Styrofoam;
• Bars;
• Glue (in the absence of special glue, "universal moment" is quite suitable);
• Brush for applying glue;
• Scissors;
• Construction stapler;
• Hammer;
• Stationery knife.

Progress

In general terms, do-it-yourself upholstery repair is as follows: in the inner cavity of the doors along the perimeter and in the center they have wooden bar, which is attached with self-tapping screws. Further actions depend on the selected type of upholstery. To the inside, the material is attracted from the outside with the help of long self-tapping screws; for upholstery on the outside of the door, self-tapping screws are mounted from the inside along the perimeter of the door leaf.

Repair and sheathing with thin-sheet material, such as fiberboard, has its own nuances - the sheets are simply glued in the middle, and along the perimeter of the canvas they are attached and closed with decorative strips in order to beautifully mask the fasteners. Thus, the doorway is very neat, even with your own hands.

To upholster the door with leatherette with your own hands, you need to measure the opening and cut the appropriate size of insulation. You can fix it with metal staples, furniture nails, and in some places with glue. Repair and replacement of upholstery is carried out, as a rule, using decorative studs. The edges of the material are folded and fixed well.

Sheathing with "clapboard" or wooden lath is another interesting option door upholstery. "Lining" is impregnated with all kinds of compounds that give it the quality of fire resistance, prevent rotting and increase moisture resistance. This finish is not inferior in practicality to PVC, but surpasses it in environmental friendliness. "Lining" can be painted or varnished, and it is not at all difficult to fix. Therefore, such a door finish is suitable not only for an apartment, but also decorates an opening in a private house.

Wooden door trim

Upholstery of wooden entrance doors implies manufacturing and fastening from the inside along the perimeter door leaf a special roller that closes the gaps between the canvas and the box. Such a roller is made of upholstery material and insulation: the materials must be cut to the height and width of the door, attach them and fix them with a stapler so that insulating strips are obtained along the entire contour of the door.

Metal door trim

An iron door can be insulated using beams, making a frame from them around the perimeter of the door using self-tapping screws. The holes for fastening the panels must be made in accordance with the selected panels - they have instructions that describe the features of their fastening. The holes for the peephole, the handle and the lock are calculated and cut out independently. Insulation is inserted into the niches between the bars and fixed with glue. The repair will be completed by gluing the decorative corner to the iron door along the perimeter - it will cover the edges of the panels.

Thus, if the door has lost its functional properties or appearance, do not rush to resort to replacing it, because it is quite possible to knock down an inexpensive iron or old wooden front door, and everyone can increase its service life with their own hands.

Sooner or later, but any apartment owner comes to the conclusion that the insulation of the front door is a necessity. Do-it-yourself door trim with leatherette will help solve several important problems - this is its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

To the fact that the door must be insulated, they usually come in the cold season, when, it would seem, in very small cracks, it begins to blow with a draft. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to carry out such work in advance?

When solving the issue of transforming the door leaf, you can turn to the simplest way of sheathing - even stretching the leatherette, or you can use more complex options when several pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepared necessary tools and materials for work.

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future sheathing, if it will have any drawing. It can be a carefully checked drawing or, in case of emergency, even a regular pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawn picture, you can make a list necessary materials that will be needed for work:

• Leatherette or imitation leather can be purchased at specialized stores where big choice of this material. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and textured pattern on the surface. Standard width leatherette 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just suitable for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If, however, a door in a private house is sheathed, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained when measuring, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed to make rollers that frame the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. You will need three of these elements.

If the door leaf is sheathed with separate leatherette elements, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, you need to take into account its bending inward on each separate element 50 ÷ 100 mm from all sides.

Another option for lining with a pattern can be removing it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

• Insulation material will help to achieve thermal and noise insulation.

For insulation and sound insulation, sheet foam rubber is well suited

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (relief) of the drawing, which will be removed using constrictions or decorative nails.

If it will be insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

• In the case when it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather, then it is worth choosing the color of their hats in such a way that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The cladding will look more presentable if the nail heads have enough big size and the same color as the entire sheathing sheet.

Another option would be nails with metal heads that match the color and texture of the material of the handles and locks.

• To finish the metal door, you will need glue, since the leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
• For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by footage at hardware stores. This material will give the roller a neat, uniform, rounded shape.

3. To work, you also need to prepare some tools:

• Small hammer for driving in nails.
• Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. Optimal size staples - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Scissors and a construction knife for cutting and trimming materials.
• To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver with different attachments (bits).
• It will be nice to have pliers and a nailer on hand, they can be useful for removing old casing and removing nails that have not entered the door leaf correctly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can start preparatory work.

• First, you need to remove all installed on the door from the door. elements - locks, handles and peephole.
• If a door trim is made that already has an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old paneling can be easily removed. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not accommodate the new finish.

• Further, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for convenience further work, put it on several chairs or on enough big table... Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
• In most cases, the sheathing is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trimming process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed from two sides - from the outside and the inside; there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that you also need to consider before starting work.

Sheathing from the inside of a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

In this publication, an option will be considered when the door opens to the inside of the apartment.

• The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared leatherette strips and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulation material.

The leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes beyond the canvas by 4 ÷ 7 mm, since it must cover the gap between the jamb door frame and a door that is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller must completely cover doorjamb... The roller is fixed with stapler and staples starting at the top right corner. From there go to the left top corner, then frame the sides with it. It is fixed to the lower part last.

• The next step is to cut the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm less than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets on the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm at the edges free so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door material - leatherette.

• Next, you need to correctly place the main leatherette canvas. The main thing is to avoid distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to be mistaken with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is folded under insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is secured and the direction is checked again, the left side is nailed and then the right side. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed down last.

• Then, it is very important to accurately mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
• If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill decorative carnations along the marking, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to stretch the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - external cladding

The door sheathing, opening to the inside of the apartment, from the side of the entrance, is made as follows:

• Before starting work, you need to close the door and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will define the position of the trim on the door leaf. If the leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
• The insulation is cut out 10 mm m less than the delineated area and fixed with staples.

• Further, with tucking into the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as with inside doors - first on top, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

• In this case, the insulation roller is fixed on the outer side of the door frame from three sides, but it is not installed on the threshold. This element, in a fixed form, should close the cracks, finding it on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen.
• The lower roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply wear off over time and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since the door in this case will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, must adhere tightly to the sill from above, that is, as it were, to find on it.

• On the roller nailed to the door, the lower part of the main leatherette canvas is pulled and nailed, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
• Further, holes are made in the leatherette lining for door accessories - locks, a peephole and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

V last years in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to a wooden one. It is good if there is an opportunity to purchase immediately insulated and, but very often it consists only of sheet metal and frames from a corner or a shaped tube. In this case, the landlord picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper form.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their cladding.

Inner side of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame comes out inside the room without insulation and decorative materials This can be easily remedied by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it with a decorative panel. For work, materials that are slightly different from the plating of a wooden door are required.

• Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
• The foam will be needed to seal the joints between the installed foam and the metal frame.
• Wooden slats for fastening to the inner sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching the decorative panel.
• Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners ( shaped pipe) for screwing wooden battens to a metal frame.
• Decorative nails for fixing the leatherette on the plywood surface.
• Self-tapping screws for wood for screwing a plywood sheet to wood slats.
• Plywood sheet equal in shape and area to the door frame, no more than 10 mm thick.
• Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
• Glue or Double-sided tape, for fixing the insulation on the plywood.

Finishing work inner surface doors goes like this:

• Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. Pre-drilled through holes through the slats and metal frame elements.

• After fixing the rails between them and the metal sheet, gaps may form, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed polyurethane foam... In addition, it will contribute to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

• Further, between the fixed and insulated rails, foam plastic is installed, around which polyurethane foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

• On a plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since you will have to screw it to them.
• If you need to hide the caps of the screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed on before sheathing.
• First, the sheet is twisted to the middle slats, so that all the edges remain free for the establishment of leatherette behind them.
• Foam rubber is fixed to the installed plywood on glue, or better - on double-sided masking tape.
• The leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and at the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and a carnation with a decorative cap can be driven in next to it.
• Further, the leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with cloves. Since nails are hard enough to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
• Thus, the decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
• Then, on it you need to outline location lock, cut the leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in the plywood.

I must say that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. It is installed from below and gradually rises to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

Outer side of a metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, you can use not too thick felt for laying under the leatherette, which is glued to the metal surface.

• Insulation cut out smaller the door leaf is 7 ÷ 10 mm, and the leatherette is 60 ÷ 80 mm larger than this size. This extra area will go to fold the edge to the other side of the sheet.
• A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
• Further, a heater is applied to it and pressed against it. It is necessary to give time for the glue to set and dry.
• Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, folded over the edges of the metal panel of the door and glued on its other side. It is best to use a quick-drying all-purpose adhesive for this purpose.

The top edge of the material is glued first. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side parts of the door. If excess material forms on the curls, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and a fold is too thick at the corners, then it is better to cut off a part of the leatherette in these places.

• If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out to be neat and respectable.

• Finally, the door is installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" plating

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" sheathing looks very impressive

This cladding is performed in two different ways- from whole material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions, the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed, if there is no experience in performing such "filigree" work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for a start, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. You can use any fabric for training.

In order for all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a series preparatory activities... It is very important not to neglect the careful marking - only in this case, geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses can be obtained.

• For marking, you need to take a sheet of thick plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It needs to be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
• At the intersection of straight lines, they are outlined and then drilled round holes, so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
• Plywood is placed on a foam mat and through the holes there are marked the places where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

• Further, the marked foam rubber is shifted to wooden base... If it is too thick, round holes may be cut in it to drive nails.
• Around the holes or drawn circles are traversed with a stapler, nailing the insulation to the base and marking the recesses.
• Dermatin is drawn from the seamy side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to fold the edges of the material when nailing it.
• Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can start fixing it on the door leaf.
• Pieces are applied to the foam rubber along the markings and nailed. You can first mark them with a stapler, and then nail them in with decorative carnations.

Each piece is stacked and attached separately - you need the utmost care

• It is necessary to ensure that the overlap of the other pieces of leatherette goes in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
• Without proper experience, the work will seem quite difficult and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture identical strips, which will serve as a foam rubber tie between the nails.

Video: one of the options for "coach" door trim with leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, in all cases, you first need to carefully mark the door leaf.

If this work is done independently, then not only will experience and skill in its implementation appear, but a significant amount will also be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking the risk of training for a start on small planes.

Renovation is an expensive undertaking, and everyone is looking for ways to save money on something. Many people try to do a number of works with their own hands and attract specialists only at those stages where they cannot do without professionals. This approach is often used when arranging the front door. The owner orders a metal door with an open frame without cladding for the minimum amount, and he does the cladding himself. Financial benefit and individual interior decoration – undoubted advantages of this work.

Cladding materials

Range facing material wide today. You can use ready-made decorative panels, which are made specifically for cladding. You can experiment with other surface finishes.

Features of the choice of material for the front door

The choice of material for finishing is based on two factors: aesthetic appearance and performance. The front door trim is different from interior cladding... The inner side is always in comfortable conditions: the humidity level does not change over a wide range, the likelihood of mechanical damage is minimal. Therefore, it can be finished with any material.

The outer finishing layer is constantly exposed to aggressive moisture, temperature changes, and mechanical damage.

Therefore, you should choose the finish depending on the aesthetics and performance. The main ones are moisture resistance and mechanical strength of the surface.

Important! When choosing a material, you need to understand the installation technology. They differ in different levels of labor intensity and will require appropriate skills.

Panels (cards) from pressed plywood and MDF

The range of designs for such overlays is huge. There are regular models with embossed volumetric panels, there are flat panels with deep milling. The designer models use glass or mirror inserts, patina finish, 3D engraving. But when choosing a card, you should, first of all, pay attention to the type protective coating... The cheapest are embossed cards made of MDF with a coating of ordinary (inner) PVC film. They are ideal for interior cladding. But for the outside, they are not suitable, since protective film does not have sufficient strength, cards will begin to swell and deteriorate. Higher quality (and more expensive) covers are coated with an outer film of increased strength or painted with polymer paint.

Important! MDF panels with outer foil can be installed on external doors if the porch is equipped with a wide canopy. Regardless of the quality of the coating, the cards are not allowed to come into direct contact with water.

Solid wood panels

This is the most expensive option. You can tint the panel yourself and get the desired shade in accordance with the interior. The surface of the cover can be varnished several times. A worn-out surface can be repainted and restored over time. You can always remove the panel and refine it with a new layer of varnish or glaze.

Important! The panels can be made by yourself. To do this, use moisture-resistant plywood: cut out a rectangle of the appropriate size and decorate it to your liking. They can be stained, varnished, and homemade panels can be glued on.

Wooden lining

Wooden clapboard is used for both internal and exterior decoration doors. The lining has a lock connection, so it is easily mounted, which makes the joining work smooth. The surface lined with clapboard does not look the same.

Plastic panels and lining

Plastic is not afraid of moisture, but this advantage is completely leveled by its low mechanical strength... Therefore, only the inner surfaces can be trimmed with plastic. In addition, outwardly, it looks quite unpresentable.

Laminate

Front doors to an apartment are often sheathed with laminate. Decorative finishing indoors, when using a laminate, it is performed in a complex in combination with a floor covering. Such interiors look solid and harmonious.

Upholstery with fabric, dermantine

Dermantine finishing is one of the most common methods used to decorate old surfaces. They usually lay under it roll insulation with increased elasticity (for example, foam rubber). It not only insulates the fabric, but also provides a uniform stretch of the fabric and allows you to perform characteristic embossed jointing.

Important! Dermantin is rarely used for an iron door. This is due to the difficulties of installation and its unaesthetic appearance.

Cladding installation

Facing materials are attached to the canvas in two ways:

• installation on the frame from the inner side of the surface;
• screwing (gluing) to a flat surface.

Fixing panels

MDF panels, solid wood sheathing or homemade cards are fastened with self-tapping screws:

• Through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled with such a diameter that the screw freely passes into it. A self-tapping screw is inserted into the hole and screwed into the body of the lining from the back side. As a result, the card is attracted from the surface of the door.

Important! Overlays are sheathed immediately on the inner and outside... When mounting the inner card on outer surface the canvases will remain visible the caps of the self-tapping screws, which must be closed. Therefore, two linings are usually bought or made at once.

• First, screw on the inner panel, which should be smaller than the outer one.
• Before installing the card, the cavity of the canvas must be insulated. To do this, use foam, mineral wool or isolon.
• After installation inner panel screw the outer one, drill holes for the keyhole, under the peephole and for the handle fasteners.

This method of cladding installation is the simplest.

Sheathing with lath material

A supporting element for fixing lining, laminate and other lath material serves as a frame made of wooden slats, which is attached to the ribs of the canvas from the inside. The rail is taken the same thickness as the height of the jumpers metal frame... It is fastened with self-tapping screws for metal. Insulation is laid in the cells of the cavity and the lining is installed, nailing it to the frame slats.

Important! When using lining, it is also used for sealing slopes. The opening, completely lined with clapboard, looks impressive.

When working with wooden lining, thin decorative slats are used to decorate the perimeter of the door leaf and close the joints between the planks at breaks in the direction of the lines. When working with plastic and laminate, a plastic starting L-shaped profile is used for such purposes. It is first stuffed around the perimeter of the canvas, and then the cut strips are inserted.

This method is more laborious in all versions, since trimming the lining takes much more time than instantly screwing on the linings.

Outer cladding rail has some peculiarities. If on the inside, the thickness of the skin does not really matter, then on the outside it should not protrude much. Therefore, from the outside, the cladding is attached directly to the surface of the door leaf. To do this, take a thin lining and screw it to the canvas with self-tapping screws. Alternatively, you can make a card. Forcing is mounted on a sheet of thin fiberboard on glue exactly as if it were laid directly on the canvas. It is left to dry, pressing with something heavy so that the typesetting card does not lead during the drying process. After drying, it is fixed in the same way as ordinary MDF cards.

Slopes

If the owner himself took up the installation and cladding, then to complete the finishing of the doorway, you will need to make slopes. There are several options for making slopes. The easiest one is to use add-ons or install on the slopes of the same material from which the door trim is made. Plastering is a messy and time-consuming technology, and natural stone does not always match the surrounding interior.

Complements go well with laminate, panels, as they are similar to them in outward appearance... In addition, they are easy to install, they do not need to build a complex frame, and a system with telescopic adjustment of the casing depth will allow you to easily install yourself.

Video: How to sew a door surface with a card:

For cladding the inner surface of an iron door, you can use any material that the owner considers aesthetically pleasing and compatible with the rest of the interior. The front door can be covered with wallpaper. To do this, instead of lining, a sheet of plywood is nailed to the frame. The main thing is to form a rigid base on the frame to which the skin will be attached.

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