Do-it-yourself mansard roof - drawings. Do-it-yourself mansard roof: drawings and stages of how to build a mansard roof of a house Make an attic roof in the country

The equipment of the attic room significantly increases the living area of ​​the house. Even an unheated room will serve as additional thermal insulation for your home.

A mansard roof is made in the form of a broken gable structure, but there are many other options:

  • the classic gable roof is characterized by simple calculations, the work on the construction of rafters is feasible for a novice craftsman, its disadvantage is a low ceiling;
  • single-pitched - a simple type of roof that provides one full-fledged wall in the attic;
  • hip-roof, having four slopes of the same size;
  • multi-gable - attractive and balanced yet intricate design.

The gable sloping mansard roof of the house allows you to get sufficient ceiling height in the room and expand comfortable area... To build it, you will need a well-designed project. Creating it yourself is not an easy task; you can order it from a construction company or use a special computer program. The design diagram will allow you to calculate required amount material for rafters, insulation, waterproofing, roofing... The angle of inclination for roof slopes is calculated taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of roofing materials, in addition, they are taken into account climatic conditions- snow and wind load.

Features of a gable sloping roof

Bottom part rafter system installed at an angle of 60 °, its support pillars become a framework for interior walls premises. The angle at the top of the rafters does not exceed 45 °, which allows you to reduce the amount of material used, but not at the expense of the quality of the coating. Additional rigidity to the frame of the room is given by struts, which are attached to the floor beam and the lower part of the rafters.

Construction stages

  1. A support bar - Mauerlat - is laid along the perimeter of the building. It is attached to the load-bearing walls and transfers the load from the rafters to the base of the building. The Mauerlat is attached to brick or block walls using embedded anchors or studs. You can mark the places for drilling holes for the mount with a tape measure or by attaching a bar to the wall and pressing it down until dents appear. Roofing material must be placed under the timber for waterproofing. Mauerlat is put on anchors and secured with nuts.
  2. Floor beams are solid timber made of conifers... They are laid on the Mauerlat and extend beyond the perimeter of the walls by 0.5 meters to increase the attic area. Another way is to attach it to special pockets left in the masonry. The ends of such beams must be covered with mastic and roofing felt to protect against moisture. The beams are fastened with self-tapping screws and corners. The extreme beams are laid according to the level, for the correct installation of the rest, the cord is pulled. Optimal step beams - 0.6 m, it allows you to lay insulation without cutting. All beams are leveled in height, if the level is insufficient, they put boards, if the beam protrudes, it is chopped off.
  3. Vertical racks are attached to the extreme load-bearing beams. Their height and installation location are determined by the drawing. After setting vertically using a level and a plumb line, the racks are temporarily fixed with jibs from the board. After fixing the extreme racks, a cord is stretched between them, along which the remaining bars are installed. Each post is placed on a beam and temporarily secured, resulting in two parallel rows.
  4. The racks are fastened with girders - boards, this element is necessary to stiffen the structure. A crossbar is placed on top of the girder, which connects the posts on opposite sides. The brace is attached to the posts with metal corners. The complex of these elements limits the attic room. To make the structure stronger, struts are subsequently installed.
  5. Before installing the lower rafters, a template is made to facilitate the work. In order not to check each time how to properly saw off the upper part of the rafters, take a board and, attaching it to the girder, cut it off at the desired angle. This will be the template. A groove is cut out at the bottom of the rafters, which are attached to the Mauerlat. If the lower rafters rest on the outgoing beam, they are trimmed in place and fastened with corners, screws and nails.
  6. Before constructing the top rafters, the center of the roof must be marked. For convenience, you can nail the board to the Mauerlat and end tightening, it will serve as a guide for leveling the rafters. To be able to trim the upper rafters on the ground, a template is made. To do this, take a board and apply it to the girder and saw off at an angle. All rafters are made according to the template, with correct installation racks, they are all the same size. The top of the hanging rafters is secured with metal plates or board scraps. The joints with the purlins are fastened with corners. The extreme rafter legs are installed first, then the rest. Suspended racks made of a bar measuring 25 × 150 mm connect the rafter attachment points to each other and the tightening.
  7. The lower rafters require reinforcement with struts, for this they use a board bolted to the rafter and load-bearing beam... After installing all the struts, remove the temporary supports. Having assembled a completely rafter structure, the gables are sewn up.

A vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rafter structure with a stapler. The spreading of the canvases starts from the eaves, it is necessary to lay them with an overlap of 15 cm and secure with tape. Insulation is laid on top, the material is tightly packed, leaving gaps is not allowed. To fix the insulation, a crate is stuffed. It is made of slats, the width of which is from 10 to 15 cm, and the thickness is 5 cm.This part of the work ends with interior decoration premises.

From the outside, waterproofing is attached to the rafters to protect the roof from water ingress. The material is fixed with a crate on which the roof covering will be attached. The step between the slats depends on the type of material. A soft roof needs a continuous sheathing, so the entire area mansard roof sewn up with sheets of plywood, providing a flat and solid base.

When sheathing the gables, leave room for windows, if they are provided in the structure.

Work on self-erection roofs - complex and painstaking process... Using the experience of the masters who share the secrets of construction in the provided video will help you understand the sequence and nuances of installing the roof.

Video

This video shows how to make a mansard roof of a house:

Photo

With the help of the attic, you can not only increase the number of rooms used. A structure with a high roof slope looks more solid and presentable, while its construction is less expensive than the construction of a full-fledged two-story building. Read about how to make a mansard roof with your own hands in this article.

Choosing the type of roof and rafter system

For the arrangement of the attic, two types of roofs are most often used:
regular gable: the roof has two inclined slopes, its ends are closed by triangular walls - pediments;

broken line: each of the slopes is additionally divided into two more, located under different angles; at the same time, the angle of inclination of the upper one is much less; the ends (pediments) have the shape of a pentagon.

Sloped and gable roofs

Building a gable roof is certainly much easier. But the attic rooms in it, unfortunately, will be cramped, and the ceilings will be too low. Therefore, for arranging a comfortable attic, broken gable roofs with a small (40-45 °) slope of the slopes are often used. Moreover, the smaller this angle, the more spacious the attic will be. However, when erecting a more complex broken structure, it will be necessary to make additional connections between the rafters (inclined beams that serve as the roof frame).

There are two types of rafter systems:
layered: the rafters rest only on the outer walls;

hanging: additionally rely on capital partitions.

The first option is used only in the absence of such partitions. But, since the load on the bearing walls in this case is quite high, layered structures can be erected only with a distance between the main walls up to 8 m. In other cases, it is better to use more durable hanging structures.


Roof and hanging truss systems

On sloping mansard roofs, they are most often mounted combined systems, in which the rafters coming from the ridge are made hanging, and the lower side ones are layered. Such a device is especially effective for roofs with a slight slope.


Combined rafter system


Gable sloped roof frame

To obtain a full-fledged attic with a ceiling height of 2.5 m the height of the roof before it breaks should be equal to 3.1 m. Recommended angles of inclination- 60 and 30 ° (the inclination of the upper part of the rafters 15-45 ° is allowed).

Mauerlat device

Mauerlatbottom support roofs to be laid on top of load-bearing outer walls:

1. With the device gable roof the mauerlat is mounted on both sides of the building at the rafters. Thanks to him, the load from the weight of the roof is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the wall. With a small mass of the roof, it is allowed to lay it only under the rafter legs, but in our case it should fit along the entire perimeter of the wall.


Mauerlat mount

2. For the manufacture of Mauerlat, a bar is used softwood 100 × 150 mm. To prevent the tree from rotting, it is better to separate it from the wall. a layer of waterproofing... For these purposes, roofing material or bitumen is most often used.


Mauerlat waterproofing

3. The Mauerlat is attached to the base with threaded rods under a wide washer. To do this, holes are drilled in it exactly to the size of the fasteners. Moreover, their frequency should be no less than the number of rafter legs, but no more than 2 m.

4.In brick walls it is attached to wooden plugs. To strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlat in the masonry, you can provide special pockets where it will be laid. It is allowed to lay in a special masonry wire (wire rod), with which the Mauerlat is screwed to the base. When constructing buildings made of aerated concrete or concrete slabs in the walls an armored belt is provided for it with inserted thick metal pins. Their length should be enough to grip the Mauerlat and tighten the locknut.

5. In wooden buildings the top log of a log house or a bar is used as a mauerlat.


V wooden houses maeurlat can serve as the upper log of a log house

Installation of purlins and struts

The most common way to build a mansard roof is the following algorithm:
1. Mauerlat is the first to fit.

2. For the convenience of moving on the roof, a temporary flooring is being prepared, replacing scaffolding.


Installation of a U-shaped roof frame


Terms used in construction

Additional horizontal beams are called girders. They may be:
skating: the upper part of the rafters rests on such a run; it may not be used in broken mansard roofs;

lateral: located evenly over the entire roof slope, their number may be different and depends on the size of the roof itself and its angle of inclination.

4. Rafters made of durable timber 50 × 150 mm... Additional rigidity to the rafter legs is given with the help of struts(diagonal beams serving to strengthen the structure, installed at an angle of 45 °, sometimes they are called rafter legs).

Fastening the rafter legs

There are two types of rafter attachment:
tough: on metal staples, bolts or using a combination of wire and nails;

sliding (articulated): in case of movement of the house, the rafters move along the Mauerlat along the "sled" provided in the mountings.


Rigid rafter connection

The hinged version is more reliable, as it avoids displacement or even rupture of roof elements during seasonal ground movements. When erecting wooden houses subject to shrinkage, such an attachment also helps the roof "adjust" to the new position of the walls.


Articulated rafter legs


Types of rafters

Advice. To determine the location of the upper rafters, a temporary stand should be made of several beams and nailed to the Mauerlat so that the upper part falls exactly on the center line of the roof. You can easily align the upper rafters along it.

The top of the Mauerlat should be chamfered. To avoid mistakes, it is better to make a template from a thinner board, which is applied to the girder and a gash shape is drawn on it. If the lower part of the rafters is attached to saws, they are cut out in place.

Watch a video on how to make a mansard roof with your own hands:

A house with an attic is not only an additional living space, but also a respectable view of the entire building. Even if the room under the roof is made unheated and is used only in summer time, it still creates a powerful "air cushion", which helps to retain heat inside the entire capital structure.

And about, then - read on our portal.

Attic project

When drawing up a scheme for building an attic, it is best to do this in different projections in order to see and understand the placement of all elements of the rafter system. It is very important to correctly calculate the height of the roof ridge, since the size of the area under it will directly depend on it.


When drawing up a scheme-project for the construction of a mansard roof, you need to calculate the height of the ridge, ceiling and the total area of ​​the room.

The minimum height from the floor to the ridge should be 2.5-2.7 m, but if this distance is less, then the room is not an attic, it can only be called an attic. This parameter is established by the norms of SNIP.


So that all elements are drawn accurately and have the desired location in common system you need to start from a figure with right angles, that is, a rectangle or square - a section of the created attic room... Relying on the sides (the height and width of the future room), it will be almost impossible to make a mistake with angles at which the roof slopes are located, with the location of the ridge, rafters and all supporting elements. Determining these parameters, they must immediately be entered into the drawing.

First you need to find the middle of the front wall width. Starting from this point, the parameters of the ridge height, the future attic ceiling, the location of the wall posts and the size of the eaves overhang are determined.

Due to the fact that each of the structures has a certain number of connecting nodes that have different configurations, it would be nice to draw each of these ligaments separately in order to understand their peculiarities of conjugation of all elements connecting at this point.


Any rafter system consists of basic elements and additional ones, which may not be in every structure. The main components of the attic roof include.

  • Floor beams, which are the basis for the rest of the rafter system. They fit on the main walls of the building.
  • Rafter leg, straight in a gable roof system or in two sections - in a broken pattern. In this case, the upper rafter is called ridge, as it forms the highest point of the roof - and the rafters that form the walls of the attic are called lateral.
  • A ridge board or timber is an indispensable element for a gable roof, but it is not always used when constructing a broken roof model.
  • Mauerlat is a powerful bar that is fixed to the main side walls of the building. Rafter legs are installed on this element.
  • Racks are supporting elements necessary to strengthen a gable and broken structure. In the latter case, a ridge and side rafter is attached to it, and in the first, the rack is a reliable support for a long rafter. In addition, the racks serve as a frame for insulation and sheathing of the attic walls.
  • Diagonal tie-downs or bevels additionally hold the struts or longitudinal beams and rafters together, making the structure more robust.
  • Beams attic floor they are used in all versions of the attic - they are used to tie the racks, and they are also the frame for the ceiling device.
  • Girders are installed in a broken roof shape for structural rigidity.

To be sure that the prepared project is developed correctly, you need to show it to a specialist. Only he will be able to determine whether the parameters of the attic are correctly selected for the width and length of the walls of the building.

Video: professional calculation of the attic roof using special software

Parameters of materials for the construction of a mansard roof

If the graphic project is ready, then, starting from the dimensions indicated on it, you can calculate the amount of materials required for the construction of the attic roof. It is necessary to choose materials according to their characteristics, which must meet the requirements of fire and environmental safety. For wood, it is necessary to provide for a special treatment with fire retardants, which will reduce the flammability of the material. So, for construction you will need:

  • Rafter foot boards. Their cross section is selected according to the results of special calculations - this will be discussed in more detail below.
  • A beam with a section of 100 × 150 or 150 × 200 mm - for floor beams, depending on the selected rafter system and the width between load-bearing walls, as well as for purlins, diagonal legs or valleys - if provided by the structure.
  • A beam with a section of 100 × 150 mm or 150 × 150 mm for laying the Mauerlat.
  • For racks, a beam of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is usually used.
  • Unedged board for sub-flooring and some fasteners.
  • Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm - for fastening together some parts.
  • Nails, bolts, staples different sizes, corners of various configurations and other fasteners.
  • A metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1 mm - for cutting out overlays.
  • Lumber for lathing and counter battens for roofing material - depending on the type of roof selected.
  • - for thermal insulation of the roof.
  • Waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes.
  • Roofing material and fasteners for it.

What section are the rafters required

Rafters - roof elements that will perceive the main external loads, therefore, the requirements for their cross-section are very special.

The size of the required lumber will depend on many parameters - on the step between the rafter legs, on the length of these legs between the support points, on the snow and wind load falling on them.

The geometric parameters of the structure of the rafter system are easy to determine in the drawing. But with the rest of the parameters, you will have to refer to the reference material and carry out some calculations.

The snow load is not the same for different regions of our country. The figure below shows a map on which the entire territory of Russia is divided into zones according to the intensity of snow load.


There are eight such zones in total (the last, eighth, is more likely to be extreme, and it may not be considered for the construction of a mansard roof).

Now you can accurately determine the snow load, which will depend on the angle of the roof slope. For this, there is the following formula:

S = Sg × μ

Sg- tabular value - see the map and the attached table

μ — a correction factor depending on the slope of the roof slope.

  • If the angle of the slope is me 25 °, then μ = 1.0
  • With a steepness from 25 to 60 ° - μ = 0.7
  • If the roof is steeper than 60 °, then it is considered that the snow does not linger on it, and the snow load is not taken into account at all.

It is characteristic that if the attic roof has a broken structure, then for its different sections the load may have different values.


The slope angle of the roof can always be determined either with a protractor - according to the drawing, or by a simple ratio of the height and base of the triangle (as a rule, half the width of the span):

The wind load also mainly depends on the region where the building is built and on the characteristics of its surroundings and the height of the roof.


And again, for the calculation, the initial data on the map and the table attached to it are first determined:

The calculation for a specific building will be carried out according to the formula:

Wp = W × k × c

W- tabular value, depending on the region

k- coefficient taking into account the height of the building and its location (see table)

The following zones are indicated by letters in the table:

  • zone A - open area, steppes, forest-steppe, deserts, tundra or forest-tundra, open to the winds of the seashore, large lakes and reservoirs.
  • zone B - urban areas, wooded areas, areas with frequent obstacles to the wind, relief or artificial, at least 10 meters high.
  • zone V- dense urban development with average height buildings above 25 meters.

with- coefficient depending on the prevailing wind direction (wind rose of the region) and on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes.

With this coefficient, the situation is somewhat more complicated, since the wind can have a twofold effect on the roof slopes. Thus, it has a direct, overturning effect directly on the roof slopes. But at small angles, the aerodynamic effect of the wind takes on particular importance - it tries to raise the plane of the slope due to the arising lifting forces.


The diagrams and tables attached to them indicate the roof sections subject to maximum wind loads, and indicate the corresponding coefficients for the calculation.

It is characteristic that at slope angles up to 30 degrees (and this is quite possible on the ridge rafters), the coefficients are indicated both with a plus sign and negative, that is, directed upwards. They somewhat dampen the frontal wind load (this is taken into account in the calculations), and in order to neutralize the effect of lifting forces, it will be necessary to very carefully fix the rafter system and roofing material in this area, using additional ties, for example, using annealed steel wire.

After the wind and snow load calculated, they can be summed up, and, taking into account design features the system being created, determine the cross-section of the boards for the rafters.

Please note that the data is for the most commonly used coniferous material (pine, spruce, cedar or larch). The table shows the maximum length of the rafters between the support points, the section of the board, depending on the grade of the material, and on the step between the rafters.

The total load is indicated in kPa (Kilopascals). Bring this value into more familiar kilograms by square meter- not difficult. With quite acceptable rounding, you can accept: 1 kPa ≈ 100 kg / m².

The values ​​of the dimensions of the board along its section are rounded to standard sizes lumber in the big direction.

rafter section (mm)Distance between adjacent rafters (mm)
300 600 900 300 600 900
1.0 kPa1.5 kPa
higher40 × 893.22 2.92 2.55 2.81 2.55 2.23
40 × 1405.06 4.60 4.02 4.42 4.02 3.54
50 × 1846.65 6.05 5.28 5.81 5.28 4.61
50 × 2358.50 7.72 6.74 7.42 6.74 5.89
50 × 28610.34 9.40 8.21 9.03 8.21 7.17
1 or 240 × 893.11 2.83 2.47 2.72 2.47 2.16
40 × 1404.90 4.45 3.89 4.28 3.89 3.40
50 × 1846.44 5.85 5.11 5.62 5.11 4.41
50 × 2358.22 7.47 6.50 7.18 6.52 5.39
50 × 28610.00 9.06 7.40 8.74 7.66 6.25
3 40 × 893.06 2.78 2.31 2.67 2.39 1.95
40 × 1404.67 4.04 3.30 3.95 3.42 2.79
50 × 1845.68 4.92 4.02 4.80 4.16 3.40
50 × 2356.95 6.02 4.91 5.87 5.08 4.15
50 × 2868.06 6.98 6.70 6.81 5.90 4.82
total snow and wind load2.0 kPa2.5 kPa
higher40 × 894.02 3.65 3.19 3.73 3.39 2.96
40 × 1405.28 4.80 4.19 4.90 4.45 3.89
50 × 1846.74 6.13 5.35 6.26 5.69 4.97
50 × 2358.21 7.46 6.52 7.62 6.92 5.90
50 × 2862.47 2.24 1.96 2.29 2.08 1.82
1 or 240 × 893.89 3.53 3.08 3.61 3.28 2.86
40 × 1405.11 4.64 3.89 4.74 4.31 3.52
50 × 1846.52 5.82 4.75 6.06 5.27 4.30
50 × 2357.80 6.76 5.52 7.06 6.11 4.99
50 × 2862.43 2.11 1.72 2.21 1.91 1.56
3 40 × 893.48 3.01 2.46 3.15 2.73 2.23
40 × 1404.23 3.67 2.99 3.83 3.32 2.71
50 × 1845.18 4.48 3.66 4.68 4.06 3.31
50 × 2356.01 5.20 4.25 5.43 4.71 3.84
50 × 2866.52 5.82 4.75 6.06 5.27 4.30

Instruments

Naturally, during work, you cannot do without tools, the list of which includes:

  • Electric drill, screwdriver.
  • Building level and plumb line, tape measure, square.
  • Ax, chisel, chisel, hammer
  • Circular saw, jigsaw, hacksaw.
  • Carpenter's knife.

Installation will be accelerated if the tools for the work are of high quality, and the work will be carried out with competent mentors, with assistants, accurately and in stages.

Installation steps

It is necessary to strictly adhere to the sequence of work execution - only under this condition the structure will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Mauerlat mount

Installation of any rafter system begins with fixing a powerful support at the end of the side walls of the structure timber - Mauerlat, on which it will be convenient to install the rafter legs. Mauerlat is made of high-quality bar with a cross-section of at least 100 × 150 mm. It must be laid on the waterproofing made of roofing material, laid on the upper end of the wall (regardless of the material).

Due to the Mauerlat, the load will be evenly distributed along the walls and transmitted to the foundation of the building.


The Mauerlat is fixed to the wall using metal studs, which are embedded in a concrete belt or crown that runs along the upper edge of the wall, or with anchor bolts 12 mm in diameter. They must go into the depth of the wall for at least 150 170 mm. If the Mauerlat is installed on a wooden wall, then the beams are attached to it using wooden dowels.

Installation of the truss structure

  • Installation of the rafter system begins with the installation of floor beams. They can be attached to the Mauerlat from above if the beams are planned to be removed outside the perimeter of the building and thereby increase the area of ​​the attic. In this design, the rafter legs are fixed to the floor beams.
Floor beams fixed on top of the Mauerlat (Fig. A)
  • Otherwise, they can fit on waterproofed walls and fastened with corners or brackets to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. This option is used when the rafter legs are planned to be fixed directly to the Mauerlat.

Another option - only rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat
  • Next, you need to find the middle of the floor beam, since this mark will become a reference point for determining the location of the support posts and the ridge.
  • The uprights should be equidistant from the marked center of the floor joist. They will later begin to determine the location of the walls of the attic room, that is, its width.
  • Bars for studs must have a cross-section equal to the size of the floor beams. Construction sites are attached to the beams using special corners and wooden linings. However, to begin with, they are first baited with nails, then carefully leveled with building level and a plumb line, and only then are they fixed thoroughly, with the expectation of future loads.

  • When the first pair of racks is installed, they are fastened together from above with a bar, which is called a puff. This tightening is also connected to the posts using special metal corners.

  • After fastening the tightening, you get a U-shaped structure. Layered rafters are installed on it on the sides, which are attached with their second end to the floor beam or laid on the Mauerlat.
  • A special recess (groove) is cut into the installed supports for the timber or in the rafter. With its use the rafters are tightly installed on the Mauerlat timber, and are fastened with metal brackets.

  • For structural rigidity, struts can be additionally installed from the base of the rack to the middle of the installed side rafter. If this does not seem enough, and material savings are not in the foreground, then you can strengthen general design also additional stands, and contractions (they are indicated in the drawing of Fig. A by translucent lines).
  • Further, the middle is calculated on the tightening - the headstock will be attached to this place, supporting the ridge connection of the upper hanging subsystem of the rafters.
  • The next step is to install ridge rafters, which can be fastened together with different joints - this can be a metal plate or powerful bolts with metal plates or washers.

  • After their installation, the headstock is attached to the ridge and the middle of the tightening.
  • Having completed work on one part of the rafter system, you need to make all the others according to the same principle. The distance between adjacent rafters in such a system should be no more than 900 950 mm, but an interval of 600 mm will probably still be optimal - this will give both the necessary rigidity and stability of the structure, and will be convenient for insulation using standard mats mineral wool... True, this makes the structure heavier and requires more materials.

  • First, the assembled side parts of the system are installed, and then the intermediate ones. They are connected to each other by girders, which are installed between the upper ends of the posts and act as spacers. Thus, you get a rigid structure of the attic rafters, in which the frame for wall cladding will already be ready.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Roof waterproofing

When the rafter system is built, you can proceed to finishing it and related materials.

  • The first coating to be fixed directly over the rafters is a waterproofing and windproof film. it is attached to the rafters with staples and a stapler, starting from the eaves. The canvases are overlapped by 150 200 mm, and then the joints are glued together with waterproof tape.
  • On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is stuffed onto the rafters, which will more reliably fix the film on the surface and create the necessary ventilation distance between the windproof and roofing material. Counter-lattice is usually made of boards 100 150 mm and 50 thick 70 mm.

  • Perpendicular to the counter-lattice, the lathing is fixed, on which the roofing material will then be laid. The step between the slats must be calculated depending on the type and size of the sheet roofing material, taking into account the overlap required for it
  • If you choose soft roof, then plywood sheets are most often fixed to the counter-lattice.

Installation of roofing

Roofing material is fixed to the prepared crate or plywood. Its installation usually starts from the eaves of the roof and goes in order, from one of the edges - depending on the type of roof. Roofing sheets overlapped. If the cover is used metallic profile or metal tiles, then such material is fixed with special self-tapping screws with elastic gaskets. Fasteners are usually matched to the color of the roofing material.


The most difficult thing in covering an attic sloping roof is the transition from layered side rafters to hanging ridge rafters. There can be certain difficulties even if the roof projections are provided for roofing over balconies or windows.

In addition, if a chimney comes out onto the roof, it requires a separate design of the hole inside the rafter system and the insulation layer, and on the roof - a device around the pipe of reliable waterproofing.

How and what is the best way to cover the roof, you can find out in detail on the web portal, there is a whole section in which you can find answers to many questions, including recommendations for reliable insulation of the attic.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Corrugated board

Video: a detailed video tutorial on the construction of a mansard roof

It should be noted that the work on the construction of any roof, and even more so difficult as the attic, is not only responsible, but also quite dangerous, requires special, increased safety measures. If there is no experience in conducting such construction processes, then it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals or to carry out all actions under control experienced master, and with the utmost care and accuracy.

Many male people, finding a family, sooner or later think about purchasing their own home. Someone takes an apartment in a mortgage, and someone saves money for. But save up for big house not many succeed and the alternative would be to build a house with.

What is a mansard roof

The attic can be built from or from a suitable material for you.

It will not be difficult to build an attic, but patience, hard work is necessary, suitable materials and the availability of the tool.

The shape and structure of the roof must be included in the project of the house in order to avoid incidents during further operation.


You can take for building a house with typical project or order it from professionals. In such documentation, you can easily understand where to start and choose suitable materials for your construction.

Now you can buy everything you need, but first equip a place to store building materials and tools. The storage area must be dry and free from rain or snow to harm the construction material.

It will also be possible to equip a small workshop under a canopy to make some parts of a house or a roof. For a house from or who does not have the opportunity to build a full-fledged second floor, the choice of an attic roof will be the best option... House from will budget option... Next, we will consider the device of the attic.

The structural elements of the attic are practically no different in design from gable roofs.

Materials required for the construction of a mansard roof

The roof is the outer covering of the roof, it protects interior attic and can be made of various materials.

For the roof, as a rule, such materials are used.:


Stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands

After getting acquainted with the names of the roof device, we can continue to further disassemble the construction in stages.

First step

Attic construction always begins with the installation of the Mauerlat.

When building on a stone box, you need to think about securing with studs or anchors at a distance of no more than two meters.

In the places where the anchors are located, the bar is marked, a hole is made in it and put on the anchor, then the Mauerlat is fixed with nuts to the wall.

To simplify the marking, it is necessary to put the bar on the anchor and lightly walk with a hammer from above, after these manipulations, traces should remain, they will be the places for drilling holes.

Second phase

The second stage in the construction of the attic will be the installation of floor beams.

Actions must be consistent.

First of all, the extreme beams are installed from the ends, then the intermediate ones. Between the intermediate and extreme beams, it is necessary to pull a nylon cord or scaffolding, you can still use a level or a level. These devices are needed to indicate the plane.

Third stage


Install, align vertically and secure the support legs.

We strengthen with jibs and make horizontal runs.

It should be borne in mind that the racks are placed in equal numbers with the floor beams on two parallel sides of the attic.

The rigidity of the supporting structure is ensured by horizontal purlins.


Fourth stage (rafter system)

The parts of the truss structure prepared according to the template are installed according to and fixed to the vertical supports.

The elements can be fixed using boards or metal plates with holes.

Fifth stage (gables and lathing)

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We sew the gables, leaving room for, attach the sheathing boards along the entire roof. This is the most simple job during the construction of the attic.

Sixth stage

Now we have almost come to the end of construction and this is the insulation of the attic roof with our own hands.

V modern construction use a variety of materials for insulation and, you can purchase them at any hardware store.

The final stage


After the roof is covered with a roof, we lay the drainage system, it is she who will give the finished look. Of course, this is not quite the final yet, because you are coming internal work on finishing, but this is not in this article.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof built over the house allows you to increase the total living area with minimal financial investment. Among the most popular options is the gable sloping roof, the installation technology of which is not difficult.

Project development

By “breaking” the roof slopes at different angles, you can increase the amount of space under the attic roof. Broken structure, like another view mansard roof, more massive and heavier than a standard gable roof, which should be taken into account when equipping attic floor in the process of house reconstruction. First, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the foundation and walls of the structure in order to determine whether they can withstand increased loads. If the device of a massive attic structure is planned at the stage of preparation for construction with your own hands, this should be taken into account when developing a project for the foundation and walls of the house.

The creation of an attic roof project should be considered carefully, since errors in the calculations or incorrectly selected parameters of the elements of the rafter system can lead to damage to the roof itself, and in some cases to the walls of the house, during operation.

It is recommended to entrust the development of the roof roof project to professionals. It is also possible to use special computer programs, with the help of which the calculation of the optimal angle of inclination of the roof and other parameters is carried out. All calculations are carried out in accordance with the document SNiP "Loads and Impacts".

When choosing an attic project, the construction of which can be done by hand, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the dependence of the parameters of the room on the angle of inclination of the roof. The living space must be more than 2.2 meters high. If the roof slopes are straight, then the angle of their inclination seriously affects the width of the room.

The broken attic roof allows you to maximize the room, providing the required height of the ceilings along its entire width. In this case, the side (lower) rafters are located at an angle of about 60 degrees, and the angle of inclination of the upper ones can be chosen at your discretion, based on aesthetic preferences, as well as snow and wind loads typical for the construction area.

Roofing cake and other elements

If you are going to make an attic roof with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for the use of certain materials for installation in the project roofing cake. They include:

  • waterproofing;
  • vapor barrier;
  • insulation;
  • roofing material.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters - in order to save thermal insulation material it is recommended to position the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing (solid or sparse) and the pitch of the sparse lathing depend on the choice of roofing. It is worth noting that the device of the roof of the attic floor provides for the creation of not only high-quality insulation but also effective ventilation of the roofing system.

Materials and tools

In order to ensure safety, the construction of the rafter system and roof should be carried out using fireproof, eco-friendly materials... Wood materials are processed with bio-fire protection means.

For the construction of the truss system of a private house with your own hands, you will need:

  • wooden beam with a cross section of 50 × 100 mm;
  • board 150 × 50 mm;
  • unedged board;
  • 80 nails, screws and other fasteners;
  • annealed wire (diameter 3-4 mm);
  • level;
  • plumb line;
  • roulette;
  • hacksaws;
  • axes;
  • hammers;
  • sharp knives for carpentry.

Using a quality tool simplifies and speeds up installation wooden structures do it yourself. You can find instructions for conducting work step by step in the video.


Mauerlat device

Mauerlat, made of a bar or a powerful board, acts as the base of the roof truss system. Gable roof requires laying the Mauerlat on the long walls of the house. Mauerlat not only allows you to securely fix the lower part of the rafters, but also contributes to the even distribution of the load during its transfer to the walls and foundation of the building.

To secure the Mauerlat board or timber, metal studs are used, fixed in a monolithic concrete beam, made in the upper part of the wall, or annealed wire embedded in brickwork... When attaching the Mauerlat to the upper rim wooden wall apply wooden pins... Mauerlat device requires high-quality waterproofing timber... For this purpose, roofing material or other durable materials with water-repellent properties.

Installation of the Mauerlat is necessary if it is planned to build a roof frame with your own hands, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with a beveled end or a special cutout. In the event that an attic is designed, the width of which actually corresponds to the width of the house, the rafters abut with the lower end against the outlined supports. Strong beams laid across long walls act as supports. The number of supports should correspond to the number of rafter pairs. The beams are attached to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat; waterproofing is also used.

Mauerlat or support beams must be securely attached to the walls, as these elements prevent the roof from shifting under strong wind loads.

Erection of the support structure

The construction of the frame of a sloping attic roof begins with the laying of supports for the posts, which should be located strictly symmetrically relative to the axis of the building. The distance between the supports is equal to the width of the future attic. First of all, U-shaped arches are mounted on the gables of the structure. Each arch consists of two support legs connected by a lintel. For the manufacture of racks, a bar is used, the section of which must be no less than the section of the support under it.

Racks are installed on a plumb line, strictly vertically. A jumper is attached to them, the horizontalness of which should be checked during installation. The second arch is made according to the dimensions of the first arch on the other front. It is important to level the structure. A cord is pulled between the U-shaped arches, which should be located strictly horizontally. If necessary, one of the arches is dismantled and adjusted exactly to the size. Focusing on the stretched cord, the rest of the arches should be installed. Their number and pitch depends on the projected pitch of the rafters, since the upper end of each rafter is attached to the corresponding rack. This ensures the necessary rigidity of the roof frame.


Racks of U-shaped arches can be attached to the support with metal brackets, nails or spike joints. You can learn about the main methods of connecting the elements of the rafter structure from the video instructions. To ensure the verticality of the racks under the load that the roof will experience during operation, it is recommended to additionally install braces. The arches in the upper part are connected with jumpers in parallel long walls at home.


Installation of rafter legs

DIY construction of a broken roof involves the use of two types of rafter legs. The lower rafters are located under very acute angle, connecting the racks with the Mauerlat or the ends of the extended transverse supports. Upper gable roof structure mounted on an arched system.

Before installing the lower rafter legs, it is necessary to carefully mark the place of their installation on the Mauerlat. The rafters, extreme to the pediment, are mounted first. The trimming of the rafter legs is performed in such a way that the cut of the upper edge of the board adjoins at the required angle to the rack, and the lower cut abuts against the Mauerlat or a raised support. If, according to the project, the attic roof is made with overhangs of slopes, a cutout of a special shape is made in the lower part of the rafter leg: the rafter rests on a support with the horizontal part of the cutout. The rafter is fastened with nails or staples. It is recommended to additionally strengthen the connections of the legs with the Mauerlat or the outboard support with a baked wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. All lower rafters are installed in a similar way.


If we are building a house longer than 8 meters, it is recommended to install a rafter system with a ridge bar. Such a device allows you to evenly distribute the load over the entire frame. In this case, racks are installed in the center of the gables, the verticality of which is checked with a plumb line, on which the ridge bar is strictly horizontally mounted. It is important to correctly determine the height of the ridge, since the angle of inclination of the upper rafters directly depends on this. The rafter legs abut with the upper cut ends against the ridge beam, with the lower ones against the supporting arched structure.

The upper rafters of the attic roof can be an L-shaped structure. The rafter legs can be butt-connected to each other using a wooden or metal fastening plate, or by cutting into half a tree, using bolted connection... It is recommended to fit the first pair of rafters locally, which is then dismantled and used as a template. Prepared farms are installed in a standard manner - first the extreme ones, then the rest with constant leveling.

On the last stage creating a roofing structure with your own hands, installing the lathing, laying waterproofing, creating a ventilation gap, installing a roof covering is performed. Heat insulation and vapor barrier are attached from the inside, cladding is attached. In the video, you can learn more about the technology of work.