When designing a heating system, it is important to choose the right basic elements - a boiler, radiators and accessories. The configuration offered by the manufacturers is not always suitable for operating parameters... And given the high cost, the question arises - how to cook heating with your own hands: boilers, registers, combs? This can only be done with the appropriate apparatus and minimal skills in working with it.

Choosing a welding machine and electrodes

Currently, manufacturers offer several models of welding machines with which you can make high-quality metal joints. different brands... But before you properly weld the heating, you need to choose the optimal model. Let's consider the most popular types of devices and their main characteristics.

Transformer

The principle of operation is based on increasing the frequency of the incoming current. For this, step-up transformers are used. Despite its relatively large size, this type of welding machine is best adapted to power surges. With its help, you can properly weld a heating boiler, observing the manufacturing technology.

Inverter

The formation of current according to the set parameters occurs due to the operation of electronic circuits. They are characterized by a stable arc, which ultimately gives a high-quality seam. This must be taken into account before you properly learn how to weld heating yourself. However, they are extremely sensitive to voltage surges in the network.

It is recommended to purchase a voltage stabilizer as an additional equipment for inverter devices.

Is it possible to weld a boiler with your own hands for water heating using an inverter apparatus? Yes, but its characteristics must correspond to the parameters of the metal used. For the manufacture of heating elements, carbon steels are most often used.

Heating Welding Material Table

You also need to know the dependence of the diameters of the electrodes on the thickness of the welded metal.

As for the choice of a welding machine, experts recommend staying on inverter models that operate on alternating current. Their cost is slightly higher than that of transformer ones, but they are smaller in size and with their help you can make high-quality weld... This is important to consider, since the self-welding of the heating boiler must be of high quality.

The cost of an apparatus with a capacity of 7 kW, a welding current of up to 200 A and a maximum electrode diameter of 3.6 mm will be about 16 thousand rubles.

How to cook a heating boiler with your own hands

Before you weld a heating boiler yourself, you need to decide on its design. It is preferable that it complies with modern safety and efficiency requirements. Therefore, as an example, a pyrolysis-type boiler made by ourselves will be considered.

How to properly weld a heating boiler of this type? In addition to the welding machine, this will require the following materials and tools:

• Sheet steel, grades of which are selected from the data in the table shown above. For a combustion chamber, the thickness of the metal should be 3-4 mm. The body can be made of steel with a smaller thickness - 2-2.5 mm;
• Pipes for the manufacture of a heat exchanger. Their optimum diameter is 40 mm. This size will allow you to quickly heat the coolant. The number of registers is from 3 to 6;
• How to weld a heating boiler without cutting tool? It is best to use a "grinder" with special discs for metal for cutting sheets;
• Doors for the combustion chamber and blower. You also need to purchase cast iron grates. This must be done in advance, since the openings and fixing parts of the boiler will be made according to the size of the components;
• Level, tape measure and pencil (marker) for marking;
• Protective equipment - gloves, a welder's mask, transparent work goggles and long-sleeved heavy-duty clothing.

For clarity, you can see how to cook heating in a private house. Video or photographic materials will help in the work, since they clearly show all the stages and features of their implementation. However, this should be done only after drawing up the drawing and preparing all the tools and accessories. This applies to all stages of manufacturing components, since it is impossible to weld heating with your own hands, including boilers, registers, combs, without the correct circuit.

It is also important to prepare the place of work before welding the heating in the garage. Most often, the manufacturing process takes place in it. First you need to ensure the maximum free space by removing unnecessary items.

For safety reasons, flammable liquids such as gasoline, oil, etc. should also be removed from the garage. And only after that you can start working - weld the heating in the garage. Correct welding of a heating boiler consists in the manufacture of two components - directly the boiler body and the heat exchanger.

Heat exchanger

This element is made before the heating boiler is welded. Subsequently, it will be installed in a structure that will directly depend on its actual dimensions.

Structurally, it consists of 2 rectangular tanks, interconnected by pipelines. The optimum material thickness should be 3-3.5 mm. It's connected with high temperatures that will affect the surface. The specifics of its manufacture can be seen in the video - how to cook heating in a private house.

Frame

On sheets of steel, the layout of the structure is made according to the drawings. First, the back panel is cut out and a partition is welded to it for the discharge of wood (coal) gases. Be very careful at this stage, as the weld may not always provide proper anchorage. Then the side and bottom are welded to the partition and the back wall.

It should be noted that it is quite problematic to weld a heating boiler yourself. Therefore, this work is recommended to be done together. This is especially true for the installation phase of the finished heat exchanger. Its pipes are placed in pre-prepared holes, and the pipes are point-welded to the inner walls of the boiler.

Often the question arises - how to weld heating inside the garage without forced ventilation... For this, work must only be carried out with the door open to ensure a normal supply of fresh air.

The main problem with homemade designs is low efficiency. To increase the efficiency, it is recommended to make double walls, between which a basalt refractory heat insulator is installed. It is possible to cook such a boiler with your own hands for water heating, but for this you need to provide for additional material consumption. First, double walls are made, which are filled with insulation. Then the further technology of welding the structure is fully consistent with the above.

How to cook a heating register with your own hands

How to properly weld the heating register and in what cases is it recommended to install them? First you need to correctly understand their purpose. In fact, these are heating devices that must ensure maximum heat transfer from hot water heating systems to the room.

Before welding the heating registers, it is necessary to prepare the main material for manufacturing:

• Main pipes. They should be relatively large diameter- up to 100 mm. For enforcement systems with a high temperature regime, it is recommended to use just such. It is better that the cross-section of the pipe is round, since the profile structures will create a large hydraulic resistance, which is undesirable;
• In order to properly weld the heating register, you will need pipes of a smaller diameter, which will serve as pipes for the circulation of the coolant between the main horizontal ones. Their cross-section should be in the range of 24-30 mm.

At the first stage of work, you need to cut off all pipes according to a previously prepared drawing. Then, before welding the heating registers, it is required to make caps on the ends of large pipes. They are divided into two types - blind and with inlet pipes. With the help of the latter, the movement of the coolant along the register contour will be carried out.

The order of work is as follows.

• In order to properly weld the register of the heating system, you must first cut off all the pipes according to the drawing. For this, a "grinder" is used. At the end of the work, the end parts are cleaned;
• Manufacturing of plugs. For them, you need to use metal of the same thickness as the pipes. The diameter of the plugs should be greater than the pipe section by the metal thickness. This is necessary to weld on the mounting flange. After their manufacture, installation is performed by a welded method;
• Before welding the heating system registers using transition pipes, it is necessary to make holes in the pipes. This is best done with a welding machine, since it is impossible to cut off with a grinder round hole.

The final stage of work is the connection of large pipes into a single heating device - a register.

How to make a comb for heating with your own hands

Homemade comb for heating

In spite of great amount heating devices on the market, a popular option is a solid fuel boiler long burning... This unit can be used as the main source of heating in remote areas where gasification and electrification are not provided. Reliable, efficient and economical, it is an excellent heating solution country house, a cottage in the city or a summer residence.

Homemade TT long burning boiler

Unlike a conventional boiler, where the main heat comes from the flame itself, the TT long-burning boiler works on a completely different principle. This article will discuss how to properly make a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands, and the drawings and installation diagram will help you not to make a mistake and do everything technologically correct!

In conventional solid fuel units, one tab is enough for 6-7 hours of burning. Accordingly, if the next portion of resources is not added to the firebox, the temperature in the room will immediately begin to decrease. This is due to the fact that the main heat circulates through the room according to the principle of free gas movement. Heated from the flame, the air rises up and out.

The thermal resource of a long-burning boiler is enough for about 1-2 days from one firewood bookmark. Some models can keep warm for up to 7 days.

How is this economy and efficiency achieved?

A long-burning boiler differs from a conventional boiler, TT by the presence of two combustion chambers at once. In the first, the fuel itself burns out in a standard way, and in the second - the gases released during this.

An important role in this process is played by the timely supply of oxygen, which is provided by the ventilator.

This principle has been implemented relatively recently. In 2000, the Lithuanian company Stropuva presented this technology for the first time, which has gained respect and popularity as a result.

Today it is the cheapest and in a practical way warm up Vacation home, where gasification is not provided and there are power outages.

Such units operate on the principle of burning top fuel. As standard in all stoves, the firebox is located at the bottom, which allows cold air to be taken from the floor, heated and raised.

The principle of operation of this boiler is somewhat like a pyrolysis one. The main heat is released here not from the combustion of solid fuel, but from the gases released as a result of this process.

The combustion process itself takes place in an enclosed space. Through a telescopic tube, the released gas enters the second chamber, where it is completely burned and mixed with cold air, which is pumped up by the fan.

This is a continuous process that continues until the fuel is completely burned out. The temperature during such combustion is reached very high - about 1200 degrees.

As mentioned above, this boiler has two chambers: the main one is large and the other is small. The fuel itself is put into the large chamber. Its volume can reach 500 cubic dm.

Any combustion resource can be solid fuel: sawdust, coal, firewood, pallets.

A built-in fan provides constant air flow. The advantage of this method is that solid fuel is consumed extremely slowly.

This significantly increases the efficiency of such a heater. Why is wood burning so slowly compared to a standard stove?

The bottom line is that only upper layer, since the air is blown by the fan from above. Moreover, the fan adds air only after the top layer has completely burned out.

There are many models on the market today that work according to the same principle, but, depending on the dimensions, material of execution, additional options, have different efficiency and profitability.

Universal TT boilers operate on absolutely any fuel, which will greatly simplify their operation for their owners. More budget option is a wood-fired TT long burning boiler. It runs exclusively on wood and you cannot put any other type of fuel into it.

Design feature

Any long-burning boiler is equipped with an impressive chamber where fuel is placed. The larger the chamber the boiler is equipped with, the more time the wood will burn.

Today you can find two technologies implemented in long-burning TT boilers, which successfully compete with each other. This is Buleryan's principle and Stropuv's method.

Due to the high price of Stropuv and the complexity of the construction, this method is not so popular in Russia. But according to the Buleryan method craftsmen with great dedication they design units for heating summer cottages and country houses.

A boiler according to the Buleryan method looks like this: a metal case, inside which there are two chambers. In the lower chamber, fuel is burned, and in the second, gas is burned coming through the tube from the first chamber.

The door for loading fuel is located in the upper part of the boiler body, since the entire lower part is reserved for a large resource tab.

In the upper part of the boiler there is a flue pipe, which is connected to the chimney. An ash chamber is built into the lower part, through which the boiler is cleaned.

One more nuance should be mentioned. In standard furnaces, the ash pan acts as a blower through which the air necessary for combustion is blown in. Here, the ash chamber is absolutely sealed, since air enters through the upper air chamber, which plays the role of a recuperator.

The oxygen supply to the boiler is regulated by a damper located at the top of the air chamber. As the wood burns out, the fuel gradually settles and the distributor is lowered. This ensures a continuous supply of oxygen.

When reloading fuel, just pull up, returning to distribute to its original position. By the position of this lever, you can easily determine how much fuel is left in the boiler and when to start the next load.

Separately, it should be said about the environmental friendliness of this heating option. Due to the complete combustion of fuel and gases, carbon dioxide is practically not emitted into the atmosphere.

The main elements of the boiler TT:

1. Combustion chamber. This is the main element of any boiler and furnace, where fuel is directly burned.
2. Gas combustion chamber. Hot gases from smoldering wood come here.
3. Ashtray - ash gathers here. This unit must be regularly cleaned to keep the boiler in good technical condition.
4. A chimney is a unit through which combustion products are removed to the outside.

All these units are enclosed in a steel case, which is made of sheet metal with a thickness of 5-6 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages

Due to its large dimensions, the complexity of the design scheme, it is rational to use such a unit for heating a large cottage. But for small summer cottages this option will not work, since it will not justify the economy.

pros

• high efficiency (about 95%);
• autonomy heating system;
• profitability;
• reliability and durability;
• high efficiency;
• fuel availability;
• environmentally friendly home heating option;
• versatility of fuel (coal, firewood, sawdust, pellets).

Minuses

• bulkiness of the design;
• a special room must be equipped for the device;
• the complexity of the design and installation;
• the need for constant cleaning.

A long-burning boiler does not have to be bought ready-made, because its price is several times higher than conventional stoves. Such a structure can be made independently if you have at least a little experience in construction and repair.

A homemade design, in comparison with a factory analog, has a number of advantages:

• low cost;
• the ability to make the boiler universal for any type of fuel;
• the possibility of improving the design and adding power.

The only difficulty is the cylindrical shape of the boiler. Without rolling machine it is very difficult to give such a shape to metal.

But there is a good solution. Empty propane cylinders or any suitable pipe diameter can be used. Choose pipes with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm.

For a village and a small summer cottage, you can fold a small brick oven and enjoy its effectiveness. But for a large cottage, this option will be less practical, since it will require a large supply of firewood for the winter. Caring for a conventional stove, in comparison with a long-burning boiler, is much more difficult, and large temperature drops in rooms far from the stove do not at all allow organizing a comfortable microclimate in the house.

If you do not have enough money to create a full-fledged heating system for a house, or the construction of such a system itself is impractical, it would be much wiser in this situation to make a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands and not worry about its safety and aesthetics of appearance.

Any solid fuel is suitable for the operation of the TT boiler, the diagram of which we attach below:

• bituminous and brown coal;
• anthracite;
• firewood;
• wood pellets;
• briquettes;
• sawdust;
• shale with peat.

There are no special indications on the quality of fuel - any will do. But keep in mind that with a high moisture content of the fuel, the boiler will not give a high efficiency.

Security measures!

To make such a boiler really effective and economical option heating, served a long service and did not cause burns or accidents in the house, consider the main points of fire safety.

1. It is necessary to monitor the temperature in the system and prevent it from overheating.
2. Do not install a shut-off valve on the pipeline.
3. Do not keep flammable objects near the boiler.
4. It is necessary to monitor the ventilation in the room.
5. A separate room must be equipped for the boiler.

At the stage preparatory work, consider the place where the boiler will be installed.

Ideally, of course, equip a separate boiler room, because the operation of a TT boiler for long-term combustion is somewhat different from the usual brick oven on the wood. And outwardly, this unit will not please the eye, and serve as a decoration for the house.

Considering that solid fuel still creates a certain amount of dirt, it is better to install a long-burning TT boiler in a non-residential area.

But if its power is small (does not exceed 30-35 kW), then you can simply separate (zone) the main room from the "boiler room" using a brick wall.

Be sure to provide a ventilation system in the room where this boiler will be used. Oxygen must be supplied from the street on an ongoing basis.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for creating a solid fuel boiler for long burning

Project solid fuel boiler- the task is not easy and it will not be easy for a beginner to cope with it. Before starting construction, prepare drawings and sketches.

Also prepare the following tools:

1. Welding machine.
2. Tools for working with metal: pliers, grinding wheel.
3. Electric drill.
4. Building level and tape measure.
5. Marker.
6. Bulgarian.
7. Gloves and eye shield.

Attention! When performing work on the manufacture of a home-made TT boiler for long-term burning, you should be very careful and have at least basic practice with a welding machine. Always use protection when working with welding.

Of the materials you will need:

1. Empty gas bottle.
2. Sheet metal.
3. Asbestos cord.
4. Steel pipe with a cross section of 60 mm.
5. Metal hinges and handles.
6. Metal corner or blades.
7. Metal hood.
8. Basalt fiber for the passage of the chimney.

Before starting production, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions on how to properly cut an empty gas cylinder, look carefully and do not neglect safety measures!

Step 1. Marking the case and making the case

Use a marker to mark out the propane cylinder according to the drawing.

We do a small rectangular hole under the ash pan door, through which the boiler will be cleaned.

On the upper part of the cylinder (along the entire perimeter) we carry out straight line to cut the apex.

With the help of a grinder, cut off the top along the line.

Now in the center we make a marking for the hole through which the pipe will pass. The hole, respectively, should be larger diameter pipes.

We cut a hole in the lid and weld on a metal ring that will tightly grip the pipe inserted into the cylinder.

Seal with a small sheet metal ring (4-5 mm) from the outside and inside the cylinder itself, on which the cap will be put on.

Step 2. Making the pipe

We take metal pipe length from 80 to 100 cm. If you do not use a standard propane cylinder, but cook the body for the boiler yourself, keep in mind that the height of the pipe should be 20-25 cm higher. After all, the essence of the work is that as the fuel burns out, the pipe inside the body will go down.

We weld a metal circle - an air distributor to the pipe in the lower part of it.

We cut out fasteners from sheet metal, which we securely weld along the cut line of the cylinder, having previously laid an asbestos cord.

We fix the cut off top in such a way that it can be easily removed and put back. Make metal handles and weld them to the body for easy removal.

Step 3. Making a pipe to the chimney

We make markings on the cylinder in the upper part of it under the opening of the pipe.

We cut it out with a grinder and weld on the pipe to remove the combustion products.

Then a steel flue pipe is connected to this pipe.

Step 4. Making an ash pan

According to the previously made markings for the ash chamber, we cut out a hole with the help of a grinder.

Separately, we make a door from sheet metal, which will then need to be screwed onto the brackets to the boiler body.

For convenience, you can make a small loop of thick wire or reinforcing bar and screw it as a handle.

Step 5. Prepare the air supply system

Measure the inner diameter of the cylinder body. Now draw a circle on the sheet metal that is 5mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

Use a grinder to cut out this circle.

We take a metal corner and cut it into 6 equal parts. Each piece measures ½ the diameter of the metal circle. For these purposes, an impeller with old blades is still well suited.

We weld metal circles in the same direction counterclockwise.

Step 6. Making a heat exchanger

We will make a heat exchanger designed according to the principle of a water circuit.

The size of this heat exchanger depends on your personal preference. The larger it is, the more firewood you can put in it, which means that your boiler will differ in the longer burning duration.

We cut out sheets from sheet metal 5-6 mm thick according to the diagram and weld them into a reliable case, inside which our gas cylinder will be located.

In the upper and lower parts of the body, we make pipes for connecting the supply and return lines.

In the central part, it is necessary to provide an opening through which fuel will be placed. We carry out the marking with a marker and cut it out with a grinder.

Step 7. General assembly and installation of the boiler

We attach the ash pan door to the firebox.

We mark on the heat exchanger body the place where access to the ash pan will be made and cut it out with a grinder. We also equip this opening with a door, which must close very tightly, blocking the access of oxygen to the body.

We insert the balloon inside the heat exchanger.

Using a welding machine, we weld the tank from above, as a result of which we obtain an absolutely sealed casing, inside which there is a round firebox.

The essence of the TT boiler for long-term combustion is in the limited air supply from above, the function of which is performed by the oxygen supply system.

Fuel (wood, coal, briquettes) should be loaded very tightly so that there is as much less space... If the firewood is different in size and it is not possible to complete them tightly, then between the layers you can fill it with chips, paper. The denser this solid fuel mixture is, the longer the wood will burn.

• we take out the air supply restrictor from the case;
• we load fuel through a special door. It is better to first sprinkle the fuel with a special liquid for ignition;
• put back the pipe limiter;
• we throw a lighted match inside the boiler;
• after making sure that the fuel is gradually starting to smolder, close the door tightly.

As the wood burns out, the pipe inside the cylinder will gradually lower. By its height, you can always find out how much firewood you currently have inside.

Step 8. Heating up the boiler

You can make such a simple boiler right outside in the warm season and test it on outdoors by equipping with a temporary chimney.

If the area of ​​the room exceeds 30-40 square meters, then you can weld two cylinders vertically, thus increasing the laying of firewood.

Step 9. Installing the boiler indoors

Take the boiler fire safety issue very seriously.

It is better to allocate a separate room for it or make a small fence from the tenants in order to exclude burns. Still, the boiler body is metal and, unlike a stone stove, there is a high probability of getting burned.

Install in a place where there is a possibility of chimney outlets. You can remove the chimney in two ways: through the roof or.

Keep in mind that you must have direct access to the boiler, so nothing should stand at a distance of 50 cm.

• Make a brick base for the boiler, laying solid bricks in 2 rows. Check building level tilt of the base.
• Observe the distance from the walls (regulated by SNiP). The distance from the furnace door to the wall must be at least 125 cm. The distance between the side parts and the back of the boiler and the wall must be at least 700 mm.
• If the walls in the house are made of wood or any other combustible material, it is necessary to protect sheet metal or with basalt the place where the boiler adjoins the ceilings. You can use ordinary brick as thermal insulation, which should be placed around the place where the boiler adjoins to the wall around the perimeter.

In the place where the chimney exits through the wall or roof, it is also necessary to provide adequate thermal insulation. For this, basalt fiber is suitable, which should be tightly laid between the chimney and the ceiling.

• Place the boiler on the prepared foundation and again check with a level level how level the appliance is. Please note that the gas outlet must be flush with the flue pipe. If the line is not horizontal, then the thrust may be broken during operation.

Step 10. We connect the boiler to the chimney.

Attention! It is imperative to lubricate the joints of all parts of the chimney with a sealant.

We connect the chimney pipe to the TT pipe of the boiler. The diameter of the chimney must be at least as large as the TT pipe of the boiler. If these parameters are not observed, then the throughput of the gas outlet will decrease.

As you can see, by doing everything with your own hands, you can get an excellent one, everything is not as difficult as it seemed at first glance! If you strictly followed the instructions, then you will quickly appreciate the high performance and economy of a solid fuel boiler for long burning, which is many times superior to its competitors with the principle of an open flame. This will maintain a comfortable indoor climate with minimal maintenance.

DIY solid fuel boiler - video instruction

Of course, the design of a heating boiler with their own hands is of interest to many owners of private houses, because this efficient way saving your own money, plus the moral satisfaction that a person gets when doing something on their own. And it is not always possible to purchase a factory unit due to its high cost, because the prices for such products do not fit into wages the average resident of Russia.

We will now figure out how you can make such a heater with a brick heat exchanger and watch a video clip accompanying the article.

We do everything ourselves

general review

• By and large, the design of heating boilers can be very different from their counterparts, because it takes into account not only the power and type of fuel of the unit, but also its individual characteristics.
• First of all, this concerns the design of the heat exchanger, which can be made of pipes communicating with each other, as well as pipes and containers made of sheet steel, but at the same time perform the same function, and with the same power.
• Of course, in order to make such a unit on your own, you need some experience and, since only an experienced welder can weld a heating boiler (heat exchanger), then, not having professional skills in this industry, it is better to invite a specialist. Please note that the seam here needs a very high quality, because the container will contain water that can seep into a gap of less than a micron.
• If you know how to work with a grinder (angular Grinder), then having a drawing of a heating boiler in front of your eyes, you can independently prepare the parts of the heat exchanger, and yourself welding works entrust to a professional. But here it is very important to precisely observe the dimensions and proportions, otherwise the welding work will be simply impossible due to the discrepancy in the dimensions.
• Also here you need the skills of a stove-maker or at least a bricklayer - you have to build brickwork, and, according to certain rules, since each drawing of a heating boiler has its own characteristics due to a different size.

Note. We will consider several designs that you can make either yourself or with the help of a professional welder.

Option number 1

Horizontal tubular structure: 1) steel profile 60x40x4 mm; 2) steel pipe 60 × 3-5mm; 3) steel pipe 40 × 3-4 mm; 4) feed 50 × 4-5 mm; 5) return 50 × 4-5 mm; a) 360 mm; b) 40 mm; c) 300 mm; d) 800 mm

In a hollow profile to be used for uprights. Round holes are cut out corresponding to the diameter of the mating pipe - this is done either by electric welding, or gas cutter... This is carried out from two sides, and at the same time, four holes with a diameter of 50 mm and four holes with a diameter of 50 mm and four holes of 40 mm in a plane of 40 mm are cut from each of them in the side of the 60 mm profile

Also, in the lower part of the structure, a round hole with a diameter of 50 mm is cut out, at the bottom for return (cooled water) and with a similar hole on the opposite side at the top for supplying hot coolant.

Note. After welding, in any case, beads will remain on the metal surface, but such work should be as precise and filigree as possible. Therefore, remove all irregularities on the plane using a grinder, and the inner edges of the holes, if necessary, should be processed with a round or semicircular file.

When all the blanks are restored to their original state, you need a horizontally flat plane - it can even be a wooden shield knocked out of boards, only it must be pre-wetted with water to protect it from sparks.

The instruction recommends, first of all, to assemble (weld) the front and rear walls and only then mount the remaining elements. These two "panels" are installed in a strictly vertical position opposite each other and, in turn, all pipes are welded, only this work is best done with an assistant so that it is possible to fix the parts at right angles.

When the "frame" is ready, you can weld the open ends on rectangular profile and weld the supply and return pipes discussed above. That's it - you now just need to grind the seams with a grinder and check the structure for leaks by taking water into it and leaving it for 1-2 hours. In the event that the work is not done very well, then you will see on the seams dark spots Are leaks.

Option number 2

Note. If heat-resistant sheet steel with a thickness of 3-5 mm is available, then the device of the heating boiler, more precisely, the installation of the heat exchanger itself can be greatly simplified.

Sheet steel and pipes: 1) 50 mm diameter return; 2) hollow profile 60 × 40 mm; 3) feed 50 mm in diameter; 4) hollow profile 60 × 40 mm; 5) pipes 32 mm or 40 mm; 6) sheet steel 3-5 mm (sidewall); 7) a lintel made of a 60 × 40 mm profile

The present design, in fact, does not need detailed comments, since the entire structure consists almost entirely of sheets (containers) welded together, which communicate with each other through.

And, of course, there are nozzles for supplying and returning the coolant from the front and back sides. Despite the seeming simplicity of the product, welding work, again, must be performed by a professional, otherwise there will be a risk of leakage of the seams.

Note. The dimensions of the present structure can be changed depending on the size of the furnace. But at the same time, the section of the tubular profile and the thickness of the sheet steel must remain unchanged.

Mounting

We will not focus on the rules and parameters in detail. oven masonry, since this is a rather capacious topic and it needs to be highlighted in a separate article - we will consider the general provisions.

As we mentioned above, the dimensions of the heater can be changed, but in this case, the dimensions of the stove are quite suitable for a country house or summer cottage, the area of ​​which does not exceed 90-100 m2 with a standard (radiators) heating system. Therefore, it will be necessary to take into account that there will be no more than 7-8 sections in each of the heating devices, the system will be two-pipe, and there will be no second circuit (underfloor heating).

Without fail, the oven must be based on concrete foundation, moreover, all parameters must strictly correspond to the vertical and horizontal, that is, observing the angle of 90⁰. The heat exchanger must be positioned in such a way that its upper part is at least ø10 mm below the supply circuit - this is done to prevent air congestion in system.

The masonry of the walls that are erected around the heat exchanger must exceed it in height by at least 20-30 mm (half a brick), and the upper part of the structure is covered with a cast-iron cooking hob, which is very convenient for summer cottages and country houses. In this case, the cast iron plate should be an easily removable element (such as a cover) to provide access for preventive cleaning of soot - this significantly increases the efficiency of the unit.

Vertical design

A variant of a vertical solid fuel boiler: 1) a container made of steel sheet 3-5 mm; 2) pipe diameter 40 mm or 50 mm; 3) return; 4) submission; 5) space for the grate

The center of the heating system in a private house is the heating boiler. It is he who releases energy, which is subsequently converted, enters the coolant and heats heating radiators... In this article, we will tell you how to make a heating boiler with your own hands, how to weld a boiler for heating a private house, and also provide drawings and photo instructions.

Types of heating boilers

Before the start self-made boiler, it is necessary to determine its type, which depends on the type of fuel heated by the heat carrier. If desired, you can build a boiler that runs on any fuel. You can find the information you need on the Internet. However, before making a choice, it is worth having an idea of ​​the advantages and disadvantages of the most famous of them.

1. Gas-fired boilers for heating. This kind you should not try to make it with your own hands, since there are a lot of requirements for them that you are unlikely to be able to satisfy. Well, an equally important reason is the high probability of an explosion during operation. Mounting gas boiler banned in basement at home.
2. For the manufacture of electric boiler you do not need professional skills and a lot of materials. It should be noted a huge drawback - high prices for electrical energy. This is ideal option for periodic heating of a house in the country, but for constant use, an electric boiler is very expensive.
3. Boiler with liquid fuel it is quite suitable for making it yourself, but the cost of fuel and the features of setting the nozzles can cause considerable difficulties during the work.
4. Among all the listed options, the most optimal is a solid fuel boiler, which can be successfully used as firewood.

Everyone knows that firewood has a high combustion rate, and therefore does not have time to heat the room to the desired temperature at the initial efficiency. In order to optimize this process, it is worth considering two ways independent construction solid fuel boilers.

Pyrolysis boiler version

A boiler of this type is adapted for burning wood, its additional name is a gas-generating boiler. The essence of his work is that the combustion of firewood and volatile substances coming out of them is carried out separately. Thanks to the pyrolysis process, such boilers manage to maintain the optimal temperature regime of the heat carrier lasting from 6 to 12 hours, without adding firewood.

The work of the pyrolysis boiler cannot be carried out without electrical energy, which ensures the operation of the fan supporting the combustion process in a forced manner.

The dimensions of such structures are 1.5 × 0.75 × 1.7 m. The volume of the water tank is 500 liters with a power supply of 50 kW. Installation dimensions may vary based on individual needs.

As a rule, for self-fabrication of the structure, you will need a steel sheet with a thickness of 4-6 mm, a cast iron sheet 1 cm, a steel pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm, electrodes for welding and a welding machine. Also stock up on a centrifugal fan, a grate that matches the size of the combustion chamber, automatic device to regulate temperature regime, asbestos sheet and sealing cord.

At the end of the manufacturing process, the heating boiler must be piped by hand in compliance with the technological requirements.

Pellet boiler type

This type of boiler plant is more automated and less whimsical to maintain during operation. Pellets are granular wood made from sawdust and shavings. Since this material is free-flowing, they are fed into the combustion chamber automatically using a screw or hopper.

You may have difficulties in the manufacture of such a boiler due to the lack of certain electrical equipment: electric motor to ensure the operation of the auger, or the bunker flap.

The operation of the pellet boiler is carried out in such a way that there is no need for kindling or adding fuel. This is influenced by the size of the bunker. Thanks to the principle of operation of the boiler plant, it is possible to control the amount of heat generated by the amount of pellets supplied to the furnace.

These two types of boilers are optimal for hand made... On which of them to stop your choice, you decide. This is determined by many factors, the main of which is the need for heat and the availability of a certain type of fuel that you will use.

In any case, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology and observe safety rules.

Video

See how you can make a long-burning boiler yourself:

This video demonstrates a solid fuel mine-type boiler with a heat accumulator:

Schemes and drawings

Photo

In private households and dachas, heating boilers are used to heat premises or organize hot water supply. It is easier to buy a factory unit, install it, connect it to the heating system and then control its operation. However, there are situations when the question of how to make a gas boiler with your own hands becomes relevant.

Depending on the type of fuel, boilers differ in design complexity. The installation of home-made gas and diesel units is prohibited, since it is necessary to withstand the necessary parameters safe use handicraft method is unrealistic.

Homemade boilers

Making a water heating boiler with your own hands is much cheaper than a factory one. However, the efficiency of self-made units is lower. The design of home-made and factory units is based on one principle: fuel, burning, releases thermal energy directed at the coolant in the heat exchanger.

Coal, wood, pellet and electricity boilers are considered the safest, unlike homemade gas and diesel units.

Important. Controlling organizations will not allow a homemade gas unit to be connected to the gas main. There is administrative responsibility for the installation of such a unit.

Solid fuel boilers

More often than others, they make a homemade gas boiler for heating a private house on solid fuel... He has a simple design, similar to traditional oven... The fuel for these units is firewood, coal, pellets.

To figure out how to make a heating boiler with your own hands, you need to know that its efficiency first depends on the completeness of fuel burnout and the successful design of the heat exchanger.

Important. Fuel combustion temperature is inversely proportional to efficiency. The weaker the fire, the more efficiently the boiler works. Optimum temperature the coolant when leaving the boiler ranges from 120 to 150 degrees.

Electric boilers

Homemade heating boilers for a private house, powered by electricity, are not uncommon. The simplest option is heating elements, which are mounted directly into the heating system, without boilers. But more common are units made from a wide pipe. Moreover, it must be removable so that you can get close to the heating element if necessary.

Noteworthy are electrode assemblies, in which electricity passed through a liquid containing salt. As a result of the chaotic movement of ions, heat energy is generated. But making such a boiler is more difficult than a conventional heating element. Knowledge of electrical engineering and compliance with electrical safety measures are required.

There are cases when, due to improper assembly or installation of such a unit, an electric arc breakdown of the coolant occurred or an easily flammable electrolysis gas accumulated in the system circuit.

How boilers are assembled

When it comes to homemade device, questions arise: from what and how to make? It is necessary to make a heating boiler so that it is safe to use. To do this, you need to stock up on heat-resistant steel sheet... It should not burn out from open fire and wear out quickly.

It is not easy to find such steel, it is expensive to buy. Cast iron copes best with high temperatures, but working with it at home is not easy. Cast iron structures are made in specialized workshops.

By design, solid fuel boilers can be divided into two types:

• for a water circuit with a classic combustion chamber;
• pyrolysis units with an additional upper combustion chamber.

Boilers with a classic combustion chamber

Conventional boilers have a combustion chamber in which heat-resistant steel grates are installed. Fuel is laid on top of them. It burns out, ash and ash fall into the lower compartment of the boiler. The ash pan must be cleaned before each kindling.

Next to the combustion chamber, there is a container where water is heated for the water circuit of the heating system. Cooled water enters the lower part of the tank, which gradually rises, warming up.

The boiler has two heat-resistant doors: for loading fuel and an ash pan. The lower chamber allows air to circulate.

Pyrolysis units

Pyrolysis units have an advantage over traditional ones: maximum efficiency.

They have an additional camera. Gases come there after fuel combustion. There they burn out, emit thermal energy, it also goes to heating the room.

Optimal would be a design where the cameras are placed one above the other, of the same shape, but different in height. The size of the afterburning chamber must be at least 30–40 percent of the volume of the main chamber.

Important. Pyrolysis boilers factory-made are able to work continuously (without additional fuel loading) for about a day. Homemade will not last more than 10-15 hours.

Pyrolysis boilers require forced air supply. With a power of up to 15 kW, a fan is mounted on the lower door. Do not load fuel while the unit is running.

How heating elements are assembled

How to cook a heating boiler with your own hands based on a heating element, which can be used to heat a country house? You will need the following details:

• Heating element, which will heat water (with a capacity of 1 - 1.5 kW);
• large diameter pipe;
• flange for fixing the heating element;
• flange fasteners;
• two pieces of water pipe.

At the bottom steel pipe, playing the role of a boiler, a heating element is mounted in a flange way. An expansion tank is built at the top, in which there should be a hole for filling water.

The boiler is connected using sections of water pipes with batteries (supply and return). After water is poured into the system, the heating can be turned on.

On a note. A dedicated power line is not required. A regular outlet is enough, where all electrical appliances are turned on. Compared to the electrode boiler, the heating element is safe. The liquid does not come into contact with live parts.

The disadvantage of such heating is a significant consumption of electricity, which is especially noticeable when the area of ​​the room is large. The boiler can also be improved by installing a thermostat in it. The water temperature will be kept at the set level.

To heat a small country house, a boiler-pipe no more than half a meter high is enough. When water is needed not only for heating, but also for hot water supply, the power of the heating element and the volume of the boiler must be increased.

Outcomes

There is no guarantee of the stable operation of self-made heating boilers. It will not be possible to return or repair the warranty card. But if you try, you can make a heating boiler with your own hands with such performance characteristics, which will be needed by the owner of the house.