Tiered ceiling from drywall is modern solution that will add style to the room and make it interesting. This ceiling has its own undeniable advantages... It hides all slab differences and irregularities, making the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the slabs, so there is no need to make grooves in the walls for electrical wiring and air-exhausting elements of air conditioners. And if you place modern, lightweight insulating materials, this will additionally insulate the room and improve sound insulation. Such a ceiling can be given the most refined and graceful shapes. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spot and pendant.

Materials for work

Drywall is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. Comprises gypsum board covered with a layer of cardboard. The ceiling plasterboard is 8mm thick, flexible and light enough to be cut easily with a construction knife. Install two-level ceiling even beginners can do it themselves.

For work you will need metal profiles, on which the plasterboard slabs are fixed. They are of two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special self-tapping screws.

Choosing a shape

The plasterboard construction will "eat" the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level on which curly plasterboard protrusions can be fixed.

Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict geometric lines will also fit harmoniously, for example, a protruding threshold along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle. It is quite easy to work with drywall, even a simple ledge can be rounded out in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. Behind such a threshold, you can hide the cornice, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a series of spotlights over specific areas or around the perimeter.

The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, apart from geometric shape the location of the vertical posts should be noted, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In the rounded corners, the posts should be located more tightly. After that, the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

Installation of the frame starts from a lower level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from the guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by notching the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guiding profiles defining the shape are connected with racks with stiffeners of such a length to which the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface along a predetermined contour on special hangers for drywall "crabs", with which you can adjust the height. The suspensions are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners, the structure is fixed rigidly; additional supports can be added. The frame during installation must be measured with a level. After fixing the main structure that defines the contour of our future ceiling, the rack profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also observing a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes the transverse jumpers are not fixed, so that they can be moved, adjusting to the fastening of the drywall joints.

The hangers are fixed to the ceiling using two dowels with an 8 * 80 screw. The profiles are interconnected with self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 * 11.

Installing Sheets

Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass or foam sheets and the electrical wiring installed. Then the ceiling is mounted. The sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to directly cut holes for Spotlights... It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.

It is better to trim and remove excess on site than to get an unwanted gap between the plates. To make it easier to bend the drywall covering the smooth and rounded elements during installation, the part can be cut from the reverse side with transverse slots and the material can be broken along them. Some advise to just moisten the sheets a little for this purpose.

We proceed to the installation of the plates, using self-tapping screws with a fine thread, you can take the size 3.5 * 25 and 3.5 * 32. The operation is best done with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly sinking the cap into the surface.

It is unacceptable for it to go through the sheet completely, if this happens, you need to retreat a few centimeters and redo the mount.

The fastener pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by fixing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to get neat joints and cut material less. If two trimmed slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front must be slightly scraped off with a knife obliquely in order to ideally align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main array of the ceiling is fixed, the sill sheathing begins. First, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the lower plates.

When all slabs are in place, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are glued with a serpentine mounting tape, and all outer corners are fixed and leveled with special corners. For straight lines, metal corners are used, and for smooth and rounded lines, a special flexible plastic corner... The technique of its fastening is simple, a layer of plaster is spread on the corner of the structure, into which the corner is recessed, and the excess solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. After drying with the second layer of plaster, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the caps of the screws. Pre-check if there are any speakers, and twist them manually.

Plaster all joints flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster are dry, the entire surface of the ceiling is putty, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned from irregularities and sagging of the plaster with a construction grinding fine-grained float. If the holes for the spotlights were not previously made in the plates, they can be cut out with a special drill-glass of the required diameter, the wires of the electrical wiring are pulled into the holes.

At this stage, the ceiling molding is glued onto a special glue or plaster. After that, the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Painting different levels of the ceiling in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with a special paper adhesive tape, which will eliminate paint smudges. First, the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After the end of the work, spotlights are mounted, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or drywall fixtures.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.

Complex forms of drywall are necessary not only on the ceiling, sometimes for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make a round wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how to get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give.

First of all, perhaps, one should summarize information about such a convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, even in rooms with high level humidity or flammability using particularly resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied with a thickness of several millimeters and immediately represent the finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a frozen layer of gypsum is enclosed, requires finishing.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall out of it quite quickly, only slightly moistening it. Today, sheets are produced with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker ones), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are needed when needed solid foundation, for example, so that drywall niches are not only decorative.

From this we conclude that practically no other material can be applied, say, for curved walls or for false ceilings in the form of complex shapes (especially in the latter case) Neither plywood nor plastic have the necessary flexibility and durability. Brick is all the more unsuitable for lightweight structures. As for the roundness plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is required to slightly increase the area of ​​one room by removing the protrusion in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, protruding details of the layout are damaged more often than rounded ones.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that rounded partitions can be obtained from it with ease, however, observing a certain degree of care, since the material is quite brittle. But what about the frame on which you need to attach the sheets? Wooden beams disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: a construction compass and a knife, a hacksaw and a grinder saw, a screwdriver, metal scissors, a square, a needle roller, a pencil.

How to make a round drywall wall - a step by step diagram

Step 1: mark the bases

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the frames of the partitions to be connected, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markings should be on the ceiling, but, in the event that drawing on it does not work, we simply fasten the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.

You can also fix on top the part cut off from the workpiece with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.

Step 2: Prepare the guides

It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite being made of metal, can easily take an arched shape. To do this, we measure along the back plane of the guide line segments of 5 centimeters, making notes.

Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.

We cut one of the profile sides from the cuts with scissors.

We bend the board that remains intact into the arc we need, referring to the line drawn on the floor.

We prepare the exact same profile for the ceiling.

Step 3: making the template

At the first stage of work, we measure out the required bending radius of the wall (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we proceed to drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if there is a possibility of such waste.

As a result, a semicircle with the desired radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut out with a hacksaw, resorting to the help of a construction knife, if it is drywall.

Step 4: fixing the frame

Make sure the profiles are straight upright. In order not to overshoot the profiles in the process of sheathing the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Installing the outer arc cover

In order for the drywall sheets to bend without cracks and other blemishes, you need to wet them and leave for 20 minutes to soften a little.

Then gently lift finishing material, which can now tear, like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the extreme vertical rack of the frame. We screw it to the first profile, bend it slightly until it touches the second rack, screw it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed on all the vertical elements of the frame.

It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, since they are less likely to crack during the bending process.

Step 6: Installing the soundproofing

Insofar as round walls made of plasterboard, we still represent an unfinished structure with only one-sided cladding, we begin to lay soundproofing plates of mineral wool between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should fit tightly between the vertical posts of the frame, partially entering the inside of the profiles.

Step 7: Installing the inner arc cover

Plasterboard sheets are laid on the inside of the curved structure in exactly the same way as with the outside, with only one difference - now it is possible to form a bend of the sheathing on the outer covering. We wet the drywall strips, but now we roll a needle roller over them from the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet to the inside of the frame and fix it with screws.

We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the extreme profile for joining with the following sheathing elements.

With the second layer we fasten the whole wetted sheets, also cutting them off in the middle of the vertical rack.

Economical and easy to install, LED strip is widely used for lighting ceiling decoration. And in most cases, such decor provides for the device of a drywall niche under LED backlight- a special ledge on which the lighting elements will be placed.

In our article we will describe the manufacturing technology of such parts. false ceiling, and also in just a few words we will tell you about the features of connecting LED lighting.

Materials and tools

A plasterboard niche for LED lighting is a specially shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the multi-level ceiling elements.

Examples of such design solutions you can see in the photo in this article.

It is also possible to manufacture - recesses in the wall with decorative lamps... True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used; spotlights are more often used.

To erect such a structure, we need:

• Drywall (normal or moisture resistant).
• Profile (start and main).
• Direct ceiling suspensions.
• Fasteners (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for profiles and plasterboard).

Among the tools with which a structure for a drywall backlight will be created, we will need:

• Hammer drill or hammer drill with a victorious drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver attachment for working with gypsum plasterboard.
• Metal scissors.
• Pliers.
• Assembly knife.
• Screwdrivers.
• Set of tools for filler and finishing GKL.

All these tools should be at our fingertips - only then can we get to work.

Installation of eaves for LED strip

Assembling the frame

GKL slab cornice for installation led strip mounted on a special frame. For the manufacture of the frame, we use galvanized metal profiles used for assembling the lathing of the suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Note! The structure can be mounted both on a solid ceiling ceiling and on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

We assemble the crate according to the following scheme:

• Using a level, draw a horizontal baseline on the walls. The distance of the line from the ceiling should be 7-10 cm.
• Along the perimeter of the room along the baseline, we fasten the starting profile for the gypsum board.
• Having stepped back from the wall 150-200 mm, we attach the same starting profile to the ceiling, forming an inner perimeter.
• We attach pieces of the main profile to the starting profile on the ceiling every 40-50 cm. The length of the segments must be equal to the distance from ceiling base to baseline.
• We connect the wall starter profile to the hangers from the main profile with 300 mm length panels. The overhangs are 150 mm and will be the main one for the bearing cornice.
• Large-sized frames can be additionally reinforced with panels of the main profile, fixing them on the lower side.

Note! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring for connecting electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to the vertical posts using clamps.

Profile sheathing

When the frame is assembled, you can start sheathing it with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

You are most likely already familiar with the sheathing technology of the battens from the numerous videos on our website, so only general instructions are given here:

• Cut a narrow strip from a sheet of gypsum plasterboard and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
• If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
• We sew a strip of plasterboard on the lower part, forming the base of our structure.

Exists different types plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.

At an open ledge, you can immediately install electrical appliances, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:

• Closed plasterboard niches with backlighting are equipped with a special side that directs the light to the ceiling (see also article about).
• To form it on the edge of the plasterboard ledge, we attach the starting profile and already to it we fix a strip of gypsum plasterboard up to 50 mm high.
• On outside corner we glue a special plastic or metal cover, which should protect plasterboard sheathing from damage.

After the frame is formed and sheathed with gypsum board, it can be putty and finished (paint, plaster, wallpaper). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - do-it-yourself installation of the LED strip.

Backlight connection

Before installing the LEDs in a drywall niche, the tape must be prepared:

• Cut off a fragment of the required length from the coil of the tape. It is necessary to cut the tape only in places with special markings.
• If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also just solder the contacts using a soldering iron.

Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.

• We connect the LED lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% more than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
  Of course, the price of such a power supply unit will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.

• To connect color backlighting, we use a special RGB controller.
• We check the performance of the assembled system. If everything burns the way we want it, you can stick the tape on the cornice.
  
• We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the crate.

Summarizing

A properly equipped plasterboard niche for lighting can radically transform appearance premises. So if you are interested in lighting decor - we hope this article will be useful to you!

Photo gallery

Various niches (with decorative lighting or simply highlighted in color), ledges and shelves formed by wall elements and having both regular and most bizarre shapes - they diversify and complement the design of the room, hide technological communications, brighten up the possible nondescript contours of the original layout of the room. Non-standard solutions allow you to add individuality, set the "mood" of the whole room or part of it: create a cozy corner in the room or, on the contrary, emphasize the business aspect of the room.

Protrusions and niches can of course be made of bricks and various blocks, bent elements can be sculpted from papier-mâché or cast from plaster, but in 99% of cases the task is solved easier and more economically - with the help plasterboard structures... It is not difficult to mount drywall structures on the wall with your own hands; you will need a little patience and perseverance.

To create drywall structures on the wall, you will need materials:

• UD-profile (the so-called "guide");
• plasterboard sheets 9mm thick ("ceiling");
• corner protection profile;
• a box of screws for a profile (so-called "bugs");
• a box of screws for attaching drywall to the profile;
• fine-grained gypsum plaster for final finishing ("finish");
• it is possible to pack sets of dowels for fastening to a concrete / brick wall, if required.

From the tool, you must have:

• scissors for metal for working with a profile;
• screwdriver;
• an elongated screwdriver tip (can be made from an inexpensive suitable screwdriver by breaking the handle);
• long metal ruler;
• construction knife (with replaceable breakaway blades);
• wide roller with long pile (for wetting drywall).

The possibilities of the forms of plasterboard structures are wide, but not limitless. Our future structure must be mentally divided into its constituent parts - individual elements that will have their own separate frame from the profile. Individual elements can have the shape of a parallelepiped, a truncated pyramid, a sector, an arc - it all depends on your imagination.

The edges of the elements can be flat or arched. Moreover, an arc can be two faces at once, and an arc can have several bends. Minimum thickness such an element is limited by the width of the base (or edge) of the UD-profile + the thickness of the drywall sheet. The maximum size is limited by the imagination and the size of the room.

Step-by-step installation procedure of different complexity wall structures I will describe it from drywall using the example of an apartment wall monolithic house, in which the load-bearing columns protrude from the wall by 250 mm from the builders, forming not very attractive rectangular niches.

In the area of ​​the left niche in the room, a place for rest and communication of the family was designed - this means the place of the TV in this niche. Around the TV we design simple rectangular shelves in 2 rows. We will have backlit shelves. We decorate the top of the niche with an arch.

Photo of niches and drywall shelves for example -

The niche will be two shades darker, and the color is slightly colder than the rest of the walls, which will visually make the niche deeper and the room larger. Before starting work, we lay the wiring for the future backlight, power the TV and related devices, wiring speaker system, internet and TV cables. In the area of ​​the right niche in the room, there is a working corner with a table, space for a laptop, shelves with office equipment and books above the table. It turns out such a nook-office.

We decorate the right niche with a wide narrow arc with narrow decorative shelves, leaving room for a bookshelf. Although the "recreation area" and the "study" are planned to be separated by a narrow long aquarium, the design of the structures of the two niches harmoniously overlaps, forming one whole.

This is achieved by keeping the same level for the key points of the two structures. For example, the top edge of the bottom shelf on the left is flush with the bottom edge of the arc on the right, and the top edge of the bottom shelf on the right is aligned with the top edge of the top shelf on the left, and so on.

It is not noticeable with a naked eye, but our subconscious mind fixes this fact, unmistakably capturing the ordered in the seemingly disordered. Without a drawing, it will not be possible to maintain such proportions - every millimeter is important, especially for curved surfaces.

Thus, we get 3 types of structures, different in the complexity of manufacturing, the combination and modification of which can be used to obtain almost any conceived structure:

• rectangular shelf;
• arch;
• thin decorative arch.

Rectangular shelf

The rectangular shelf is the most simple construction on a plasterboard wall. Installation technology is the same as in manufacturing drywall box: frame is made from UD-profile directly on the wall. To do this, first we fasten the rectangle of the contour of our future shelf to the wall. We make the frame parallel to the wall of the face, fasten the edges of the frame perpendicular to the wall. The frame is ready.

It is not worth overdoing it with additional partitions in the frame, it is enough to make only the ribs. The frame itself may not be rigid enough, but sheathing the edges of the shelf with plasterboard, we will give the structure the necessary rigidity.

Use a level when installing. Overlapped and skewed edges look terrible, unless of course this is provided for by the design. So you will have to work hard with accuracy, both with the implementation of the frame, and with cutting and screwing drywall. Minor defects will be hidden with putty, but it is much easier to avoid these defects than then apply layer by layer of putty in an attempt to rectify the situation.

Cutting drywall exactly as easy as shelling pears. You will need a long metal ruler and a construction knife. We draw a knife along the ruler from the edge of the slab to the next edge, cutting the cardboard layer. At the edge of the table, we break the plaster slab - the break will be along the cut line. We cut the cardboard from the opposite edge along the break. Angular perforated profile that protects the corners does not need to be screwed on. It is glued to the putty and closed with it.

Arch

The arch is a little more difficult to make than a rectangular shelf, but the principle is the same, except for the bent edge. It should be noted that for curly designs there is a special sheet of drywall with notches and an elastic backing. However, such material is much more expensive, and you can't buy it everywhere. We'll get by ceiling slab 9mm thick.

We need a template for applying the bend contour to the wall and drywall sheet. To make a template, we print our drawing in natural size, glue the sheets and cut out the template. We make the frame for the bent edge from the same UD-profile, but cut the side edges of the profile symmetrically to the base with a step of ~ 40 mm. It turns out such a flexible "ridge of a lizard with thorns" from the base of the profile and protruding rectangles - ribs.

For these same rectangles and fasten the profile to the wall, orienting the base of the profile along the contour previously drawn on the wall. The edge of the structure parallel to the wall is assembled directly on the drywall sheet along the applied bend contour, we cut off the excess material at the bend directly along the frame. We collect the box, in the end we leave only the bent edge.

We will bend the drywall sheet using plain water- just moisten the side of the sheet with a roller, which will be with a large radius. Before starting the installation of the bent edge, it is necessary to install the support for the sheet from the edge from which we begin to bend - it will do wooden block or a piece of profile. Is the screwdriver charged, are the screws conveniently at hand? Begin!

Everything needs to be done quickly and the first time. Only cardboard and the nearest layer of gypsum should get wet. If the sheet is waterlogged, the gypsum will become loose, it will crumble, and the screws will push the sheet with their heads and pass through. After all, the sheet, like a spring, will try to take an even position. A too dry leaf will break. So we go through a roller, abundantly moistened with water (what would flow), quickly apply the sheet to the stop and, pressing it to the frame, quickly fasten the sheet with a small step, bending the sheet step by step more and more. We go parallel on two sides to avoid skewing. If everything is done correctly, and the bend radius is not extremely small, then problems should not arise. Using this method, we can also perform an S-shaped bend, if your design requires it.

Thin decorative arch

The arch differs in installation from the arch in that it has two curved edges. Exactly so much the arc is more difficult to make than the arch. According to the design, the arc thickness was assumed to be 60 mm. Therefore, a profile with a base of 40mm was chosen, and the cuts on the profile were made along one of the ribs and the base. That is, bearing element the second edge of the profile remained.

The rest of the procedure is the same with the installation of the arch. In our case, the edge of the arc with a large radius at the extreme points is close to the wall. This means that it will not work to mount the structure directly on the wall. The wall will prevent screws from being tightened at the edges of the arc. We mount the arc on a temporary basis, for example on wooden board or old door... Let the drywall dry thoroughly. We unscrew the edge parallel to the shield, unscrew the structure from the temporary base and transfer finished structure on the wall.

Decorative coating

Matte paint perfectly emphasizes the grace of drywall structures on the wall and is the easiest to apply decorative coating... It's just as easy to choose a dark and cool base color to highlight or accentuate a design. However, wall paint just as well emphasizes all defects, especially shells when putty.

Decorative plaster great alternative in this case, it hides minor defects, you can flexibly select the color, but it costs more and is more difficult to apply. Wallpaper can also be used, but provided that the plasterboard structure does not have much complex shape otherwise, this process threatens to turn into a very difficult task.

Express your personality! Hope this article helps you.

One of the most effective design tricks is the use of lighting effects. Often it is the light that gives the interior a zest. A backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. It is good because, if you wish, you can do it yourself, with your own hands.

Main design differences

The backlighting of the plasterboard ceiling is hidden and open. Open - spotlights that are fully or partially visible. The hidden one is called so because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden illumination, the lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which the lighting fixtures are placed.

This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources changes the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling.

How the light flux changes depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source

Backlight box design

To make such a box for lighting the ceiling, you need two types of profiles:

In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not rest on anything. The rigidity of the gypsum board itself is enough to keep the light backlight. In this case, the weight of the lighting elements must be taken into account. The heaviest are the lamps daylight, but they have practically not been used recently, since there are other options that are more economical in energy consumption and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).

There is a second construction. Here the extension of the shelf rests on the elongated cross members. If the previous construction seems unreliable to you, you can do this. Only in this case, a little more bearing profile will be required. The photo shows an example of organizing a two-level flow from drywall with backlight.

The exact same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a perimeter box. Example assembled frame for highlighting below. It remains to make the inner side, and hem the frame from below.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines... They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same patterns are done with curved lines. The result is very beautiful false ceilings.

Only at large distances from load-bearing walls it is necessary to additionally fix the bearing profile either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with suspensions.

Sources of light

When planning to make the illumination of plasterboard ceilings, one must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The stream of light is diffused. Initially, it is fused onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And it adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually "raise" the ceiling, make it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. Lighting will have to be taken care of separately: to install built-in lamps, wall or traditional - chandeliers.

Backlighting can be done using different light sources, but recently three types have been used:

• LED
  • tapes;
  • duralight.
• Neon tubes.

LED strips and duralight

This is a series of LEDs in series. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they are powered from 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the voltage of a 220 V household network into a lower one. There are monochrome ribbons (white, red, blue, green) that are designated SMD or universal RGB when marking.

Monochrome always emit one color, the color of universal ones can vary. RGB tapes work only with a controller and a remote control. On command from the control panel, they change the shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds), in some models the intensity of the glow can also change.

By the type of execution, LED strips are:

• Regular. Dont Have protective coating, can only be used in dry rooms.
• Waterproof. Their surface is covered with varnish. Can be used with backlighting wet rooms- kitchen, bathroom.
• Moisture resistant. Sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or housing. They are rarely used for room lighting, more often in aquariums, swimming pools, etc.

The choice is clear. Select the type of tape depending on the conditions of the room. , and we will talk about the good or bad LEDs in the backlight.

First, about the merits:

• Low power consumption. They are very economical. Considering that this is only decoration, I don't want to spend large sums on its content.
• Do not get warm. Only the power supply can get warm, the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
• Long service life. Counts in thousands of hours. Under normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current for which they are intended).
• Low price. SMD 35 * 28 tape 5 meters long and 120 pcs / m density costs about $ 2-3. Approximately the same should be paid for the adapter. True, these are the prices of Aliexpress. In stores, everything is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you will not go broke either.
• Simple installation. On the back surface of the tape is applied adhesive composition... Remove the protective layer and stick in the right place... If the surface is rough, you can "shoot" with staples from construction stapler, but it is better not to punch the tape itself.

Now about the disadvantages. First and foremost: LEDs firmly illuminate all surface flaws. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of the ceiling finish are very high. Second disadvantage: the presence of adapters. They need to be attached somewhere. This is probably all.

Neon tubes

These are glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes when the current strength changes, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, they do not make noise during operation.

Also, a step-up transformer is required for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to work. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during operation, and also - warm up and electricity, of course, "pulls" pretty well. The whole system as a whole consumes enough a large number of electricity, which, together with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive in comparison with LEDs.

But recently neon cords have appeared. They come right away with a controller and all you need to do is press a button. They are powered by AA batteries. But the power of such illumination for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in conjunction with LEDs to illuminate interior details.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos

Main ceiling in this option putty, because the first tier was not done. Only the box was attached around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm required for organizing the suspended one are critical.

There is a place for the cornice near the window, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, the corners are rounded.

The first method was chosen - a step under illumination without support. Since the backlight is planned from a conventional LED strip, its bearing capacity more than enough.

First, markings are made on the ceiling. All the specified dimensions are set aside, lines are drawn with the help of a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is pushed forward by 6 cm.

When drawing rounds, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

Profile guides are attached along the marked lines (CD or PNP in the marking). Fastened to dowels with a pitch of 50 cm. Drilled immediately through the metal. Having installed the plug, the dowel-nail was twisted.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are notched, the back remains intact. After that, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

WITH front side we attach a 12 cm wide strip of drywall to the guide profile on the ceiling. This will be the back side of our box. We fix it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a screw at a distance of about 10 cm.

WITH back side of the installed side, we fasten the vertical posts from the CD profile (ceiling). Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm box height, minus 1 cm for the installation of profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the gypsum board screwed from below).

In each section, the lower part is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile bolted to the wall. The installation step of the vertical racks is about 40-50 cm.

We fasten short vertical pieces around the perimeter

The next step: we fasten the PNP profile, which goes along the bottom of the boat. It is also installed on self-tapping screws with a pitch of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed on the wall and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile with a step of 40-50 cm.

We proceed to the design of the roundings. To make the strip bent along the required trajectory, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide.Cut it in 5 cm increments and break the gypsum. The result is pieces of plaster that stick to the cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so as not to burst.

With help laser level transfer the height markup to inner side... If there is no laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the bearing profile 9.8 cm long, only we cut it off from above and below. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we wind one edge behind the profile, fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of the profile cut into fragments (as they did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding "from the inside"

Now the extra pieces of plasterboard can be removed. They are cut to the level with the lower edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and the main side are putty. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the hemming from the bottom and the protruding cornice will interfere.

The most convenient way is to cut a square, then cut it off on one side. First, we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required shape of the edge.

First you can draw, then bite off in small pieces along this line. Smooth out irregularities with a wallpaper knife.

No news: for the roundings, we cut the sidewalls, bend them with the required diameter and set them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you are planning to make LED lighting for your plasterboard ceiling, it's time to fix the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, setting some kind of inclined plane.

Further, a strip of drywall 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. Of the features - fastening in the middle, and not above and below: the height is too small. The bends are also familiar. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster of Paris and fix it.

In this version, in order to facilitate the work and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets are glued to the side ( ceiling plinth). Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now it remains to putty everything and achieve a flat surface. Almost everything. The backlit plasterboard ceiling is ready, it remains to install the backlight itself. And it can be different.

Another option can be seen in video format, but with a working backlight.

The installation of a bi-level stream is demonstrated in the following video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be helpful.

How can you arrange a plasterboard ceiling with lighting (photo)

LED plasterboard ceiling lighting - only spectacular design reception... Lighting needs to be taken care of separately

Ceiling lighting in the bedroom