Even in the most inhospitable house, the front door opens constantly, whether you come yourself or guests, ask a dog to go home, go to work in the garden or do something about the house. For all the time while the door is open, the air brings along with it the heat or cold from the street, and the feet of those who enter dust and dirt in the cold and damp seasons.

To solve such problems, a vestibule is being built in the house.

Despite the seemingly obvious benefits of the vestibule, many perceive this small space at the entrance only as a small storage room and a place for shoes. The opinion is also widespread that this mini-room is not needed, it eats up the residential area without much benefit, and it also requires additional expenses for the arrangement. And many designers ignore the vestibule when planning the construction of cottages. They argue this decision as follows - it is enough to make a well-insulated (or better double) door, and these short-term "airings" will not play a big role.

However, a vestibule is necessary and useful in every home. The only exceptions are buildings in the southern regions of the country, where the climate is milder.

It should be borne in mind that building codes do not directly oblige to equip a vestibule in residential buildings.

But, according to the regulations, living rooms(bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. This requirement is fully met by the vestibule, which is an intermediate, buffer space between the first and second (inner) entrance doors.

Due to their sequential opening, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living quarters. Also preserved home warmth, heating devices do not "warm" the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is kept, which is especially important when using an air conditioner. Thus, both in winter and in summer, more efficient use climate technology and savings on heating or cooling costs.

In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts, prevents the penetration of smoke and various odors into the home. Finally, you can leave your shoes here, and with them the dirt.

Features of the layout of the vestibule

There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that, among other things, regulate the arrangement of this space.

Position the entrance to the house, and with it the vestibule, preferably taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. The door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.

Wherein the vestibule can be built into the main volume buildings or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where you can also place a staircase. The front door must necessarily open outward: this improves its resistance to burglary, increases the free space in the vestibule, and provides a safer evacuation in case of fire.

It is not necessary to organize natural lighting, artificial enough. But in inner door glazing can be provided: this will increase both the illumination and improve the visual perception of the space. The floor covering must be firm and not slippery (also when wet). When installing dirt-collecting grates, they should be arranged flush with the upper floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees a safer movement. Finally, the vestibule zone is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further contributes to keeping the cold in this room.

Reliable isolation

The completeness of the performance of the vestibule as a constructive temperature barrier for the rest of the premises depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. Outer wall the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, - constituent element the thermal circuit of the building, and its "pie" should contribute to the provision and maintenance of the "thermos effect".

A wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall of or glued laminated timber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend arranging a layer of insulation made of foam, perlite or mineral wool boards(basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation). For the latter, a film vapor barrier is required with inside and waterproofing from the outside. Outside on thermal insulation layer strengthen the reinforcing mesh and then cover it with topcoat or plaster.

The attached vestibule can also be made using the technology winter garden: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing in this case is to ensure reliable joining of the profile structure with the main wall. To do this, arrange an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with a fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool but not with polyurethane foam) and protected with facade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the foundations of the cottage and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to perform an independent roof structure, and close the joint from above with a cornice strip.

Also in the vestibule you need special attention trace for gaps: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow out with polyurethane foam, and clog small cracks with tow, seal with insulating tape or simply "close" with silicone sealant.

Particular attention should be paid to the doors.

The outer must be made of solid wood or metal frame with internal insulation... As the second one is perfect balcony door with double-sided handle, glazing and full sealing of the opening due to two sealing circuits. You can put a simple one, even made of wood or plastic, you just need to upholster it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.

Which vestibule to build - heated or not?

There is a lot of controversy about the need and possibility of heating the vestibule. Some experts strongly recommend routing the general heating system here in order to avoid frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule in frosts can cool so much that it ceases to play the role of a temperature buffer.

However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors, in order to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional systems heating: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy consumption. The very essence of the vestibule, what it is needed for in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone for cold and warm air.

Installation of two heating devices is permissible here. Firstly, it is a cable underfloor heating. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from outdoor shoes to slippers, and will accelerate the melting of snow, which is often brought in on the soles. Will benefit and air thermal curtain, that is, several heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i, 5 ~ 5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will only be used for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.

Ergonomics of the territory

Tambours are often used as a storage room and are stored here. old shoes, household equipment, small Construction Materials... Thus, they obstruct the space and increase the surface area that collects dust. In a small vestibule, it is advisable to arrange only shelves for shoes, as well as hooks and shelves for keys and other accessories. You can also hang a mirror on the wall. In a more spacious vestibule after a walk, they leave a baby carriage and sledges.

If the depth allows, then you can equip a built-in closet (for example, a wardrobe) and store skis, balls and other sports equipment inside it. For the same purpose, a mezzanine is made. And at the same time, due to it, the level of confusion is reduced so that there is no feeling of a well in the vestibule. In the same furniture items, boxes from purchased equipment are stored, which should not be thrown away for the warranty period, etc. But the most often worn outerwear and hats should be stored in the wardrobe or hallway.

It is convenient when a door is built into the side wall of the spacious vestibule to a nearby garage. Finally, internal and external doors are positioned both along the same axis, perpendicular to the facade, and at an angle of 90 ° to each other. The second option reduces airflow, but it is less convenient, since it makes it difficult to carry furniture.

Leave dirt in the annex

The entire history of a person's movements during the day remains on the sole of the shoe: in the form of dust, small stones, snow, ice, etc. In a word, dirt. All of it remains with the shoes in the vestibule, but gradually accumulates and, sooner or later, gets into the house. To prevent this, rag or rubberized rugs are most often used, but they quickly become dirty, and the former also get wet. As a result, such coatings not only do not retain dirt, but also "return" it to the soles.

So it is better to use special anti-dirt systems. For example, grilles made of aluminum or hard rubber, as well as combined products (they have metal strips alternating with rubber inserts). The cells in the lattice should be square or diamond-shaped and of such a size that both clods of dirt are collected, and for women's heels they are not a trap. The entire area of ​​the vestibule should not be covered with a lattice. But to ensure the full collection of dirt, its width should be equal to the doorway (or better, wider by 10-20 cm). The thickness of the grate is taken equal to 1o-16 mm - this allows collecting up to 7-10 kg of dirt and less frequent cleaning. At the same time, collecting dirt using a grate can be arranged on the outer platform near the door, then a canopy should be strengthened above the entrance to protect it from precipitation.

Read also:

Features of the final finishing of the vestibule

Tambour is a room with constant temperature and humidity fluctuations. Materials that allow wet cleaning should be used for walls and ceilings. For example one can use facade paint, plaster or plastic panels... But gypsum and other types of materials intended for indoor use are not suitable - the coatings from them can crack.

For visual magnification spaces are chosen light colors finishes. Finally, a wear-resistant material is placed on the floor. ceramic tiles, natural or fake diamond or linoleum. They not only resist abrasion but are also easy to clean.

Location and plan of the vestibule (drawing-diagram)

1. Traditional small vestibule with a wardrobe
2. Tambour, which also plays the role of a hall with a staircase
3. Unusual planning solution allows efficient use of space
4. The entrance is recessed into the facade of the house, which even better protects from the cold. There is an exit to the garage from the vestibule
5. The entrance to the house is on the same level as the facade. There is a door leading from the vestibule to the laundry room
6. Part of the vestibule with complex shape, reserved for a small dressing room

Additionally to the article:

1. Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
2. A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also act as a vestibule.
3. In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often did summer kitchen- essentially the same vestibule that insulates the residential part of the house from the cold.
4. The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space.
5. If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so as to open onto the street.
6. It is better to heat the tambour autonomously - using the "warm floor" system or a fan heater installed above the outer door.
7. The tambour, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, retains the cold better.
8. It is easy and inexpensive to fence off a small hallway, turning it into a vestibule, and the resulting buffer will save on heating.
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Underfloor heating in the hallway is an element of the apartment heating system or country house, allowing to improve the internal microclimate and provide comfortable accommodation homeowners and tenants.

Depending on the element that provides heating of the floor surface, "underfloor heating" systems are classified as water and electrical.

In structures of a water type, a heat carrier that circulates along the heating circuit laid in the preparation of the floor serves as a source of thermal energy.

The heating circuit is made of metal-plastic pipes, laid in the form of a coil, and water or other liquid substance with good heat-conducting characteristics is used as a heat carrier.

In systems electric type, the heat source is electrical energy.

Such devices, depending on the design, can be divided into three groups, these are:

• Heating cable - laid in the floor screed in the form of a coil.
• Heating mat - the same heating cable, but already laid on a flexible base (glass cloth or other similar material) at the factory.
• Thermal film is a source of infrared radiation, thermoelements are located inside the film.

The choice of underfloor heating depends on the area of ​​the heated surface, technical characteristics premises where it is required to install this system, as well as indicators of the power supply system and other parameters that determine the possibility of using one or another type of heat source.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Depending on the design of heating devices and the type of heat source, "warm floor" systems have the following advantages and disadvantages, which can be formulated as follows.

The advantages of a water-type underfloor heating device include:

1. Environmental Safety.
2. Favorable temperature regime provided by the parameters of the circulating coolant.
3. The absence of the need to install heating radiators increases useful area premises where this system is implemented.
4. Comfortable perception of the transferred heat from the floor surface during inner space premises (radiation across the entire floor surface).
5. Profitability in comparison with electrical analogs, in terms of payment for the services of energy supplying organizations.
6. Lack of electromagnetic radiation.

The disadvantages of the water type of heating are:

1. Lower reliability compared to electrical counterparts.
2. Difficulty getting permission to execute installation works in apartment buildings.
3. The complexity and complexity of the installation of such a system.
4. The need to perform additional installation work related to waterproofing the base on which the installation is being carried out, which in turn leads to an increase in the cost of construction and installation work in general.
5. If it is necessary to lower the temperature of the coolant entering the "warm floor" system, installation of additional equipment is required ( mixing unit, circulation pump), which also leads to an increase in the cost of this type of system.

Underfloor heating systems based on the use of electrical energy, also has its advantages, in addition to the above, related to water systems:

• A wide range of uses for objects and premises for various purposes.
• Ease of installation and maintenance.
• Long service life.

The main disadvantage of electric heating is the costs associated with paying bills for consumed electrical energy.

Underfloor heating device in the hallway

Depending on the area of ​​the hallway or corridor located at the entrance to an individual house or apartment, as well as the coating material (laminate, tile, linoleum) and floor structures ( concrete screed, reinforced concrete slab, lumber), the heating system is also selected.

A water structure, as a rule, is used when it is necessary to heat a large floor area, while the cost of its maintenance does not depend on this indicator.

The pipes are laid on waterproofing, which in turn is placed on a layer of thermal insulation laid on the base (floor slabs basement). After that lies down reinforcement mesh and the entire system is filled concrete mortar... The material of the floor finish can be different, depending on the personal preferences of the user and the style of decoration of the hallway.

When using electric heating, the structure looks like this.

A special heating cable is laid on a layer of thermal insulation, which is placed on the ceiling. The cable is fixed with a special adhesive mounting tape.

A temperature sensor is placed in the space between the cable bends, which controls the temperature in the heating zone. A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the cable, on which the finishing material lies.

The temperature sensor is brought out to the thermostat, which carries out the operation of the system in automatic mode in accordance with the specified parameters.

When using a heating mat, the very "pie" of laying the heating element and the automation system are similar to the option of using the heating cable. The difference lies in the fact that the mat is made in the factory and has certain geometric dimensions and electrical power determining the possibility of its use in one place or another.

The installation of such a system itself is much easier than when using a cable, since for its installation it is enough to roll out the heating mat itself on a prepared base and perform the subsequent construction, installation and finishing work.

Infrared heating (film)

It is the safest and most energetic effective method floor heating. Infrared rays heat the surface of the floor, walls, objects and things in the zone of their radiation, after which their heat is transferred to the air in this room.

Due to their small geometrical dimensions (film thickness), such systems are installed directly under the floor covering.

Whether you need a warm floor in the hallway and which system to choose, if there is such a need, everyone decides for himself individually, focusing on the requirements for the microclimate of a given room and economic feasibility.

Features of the layout of the vestibule

There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that, among other things, regulate the arrangement of this space.

Position the entrance to the house, and with it the vestibule, preferably taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. The door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.

In this case, the vestibule can be built into the main volume of the building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be placed. The front door must necessarily open outward: this improves its resistance to burglary, increases the free space in the vestibule, and provides a safer evacuation in case of fire.

It is not necessary to organize natural lighting, artificial enough. But glazing can be provided in the inner door: this will increase the illumination and improve the visual perception of the space. The floor covering must be firm and not slippery (also when wet). When installing dirt-collecting grates, they should be arranged flush with the upper floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees a safer movement. Finally, the vestibule zone is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further contributes to keeping the cold in this room.

1. Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
2. A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also act as a vestibule.
3. In small old houses, for example, in adobe, a summer kitchen was often made - in fact, the same vestibule that insulates the residential part of the house from the cold.
4. The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space.
5. If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so as to open onto the street.
6. It is better to heat the tambour autonomously - using the "warm floor" system or a fan heater installed above the outer door.
7. The tambour, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, retains the cold better.
8. It is easy and inexpensive to fence off a small hallway, turning it into a vestibule, and the resulting buffer will save on heating.
9. Two rugs - with a large mesh and hard pile - are the best for cleaning shoes

Which vestibule to build - heated or not?

There is a lot of controversy about the need and possibility of heating the vestibule. Some experts strongly recommend routing the general heating system here in order to avoid frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule in frosts can cool so much that it ceases to play the role of a temperature buffer.

However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors, in order to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy consumption. The very essence of the vestibule, what it is needed for in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone for cold and warm air.

Installation of two heating devices is permissible here. Firstly, it is a cable underfloor heating. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change of outdoor shoes for house slippers, and will accelerate the melting of snow, which is often brought in on the soles. An air heat curtain will also be useful, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i, 5 ~ 5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will only be used for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.

Thermal insulation of the vestibule

The completeness of the performance of the vestibule as a constructive temperature barrier for the rest of the premises depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. The outer wall of the vestibule, being part of the outer structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should contribute to ensuring and maintaining the “thermos effect”.

A wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of a ceramic block or laminated veneer lumber, is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend arranging a layer of insulation made of foam, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation here). For the latter, a film vapor barrier is required on the inside and waterproofing on the outside. Outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened on the heat-insulating layer and then covered with a finishing paint or plaster.

The attached vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: a frame made of aluminum or plastic profiles with double glazing. The main thing in this case is to ensure reliable joining of the profile structure with the main wall. To do this, arrange an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with facade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the foundations of the cottage and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure, and close the joint on top with a cornice strip.

Also, in the vestibule, you need to pay special attention to see if there are any gaps: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow out with polyurethane foam, and clog small cracks with tow, seal with insulating tape or simply "close" with silicone sealant.

DIY tambour

Fill and collect the frame.

Collected galvanized corners, yellow self-tapping screws, tk. black breaks in one. The lower beam was pulled by the pins, pre-laid during concreting.

Suddenly I remembered that I had forgotten about the porch (in fact, I wanted a welded one, but abandoned this idea). We make the formwork under the porch.The frame had already been sheathed by this time.

We fill this case, not forgetting the mortgages for the railings.

Outside there is a windbreak, inside it is a vapor barrier, or vice versa, I don't remember.

We trim the outside with siding, on pre-installed profiles. We also cook the posts for the visor.

Inside - plastic panels

Double-glazed tambour

1. The area on which the vestibule will be located is determined.
2. The most distant corners of the future room are pits for supporting pillars.
3. For correctness, the pillars are concreted during installation. · Filling the proposed floor with soil.
4. Distribute metal profiles with their fastening to the support pillars.
5. Roof beams are added by connecting them to each other, taking all safety measures into account.
6. Attaching roof beams to the profile frame and to the metal profile.
7. Next are the materials that insulate the vestibule.
8. Wall treatment, room style decoration.
9. Inserting double-glazed windows and doors, fixing to the load-bearing frame.
10. Elimination of unfinished little things.

Small vestibule with your own hands

Along with any construction, we start from the foundation. The foundation will be piled with a grillage. To do this, you need to drill holes with a hand drill to a depth below freezing of the soil. Install the reinforcement in the hole under the pile.

We make pile waterproofing. We take roofing material and roll it up into a tube, set it in the mouth. In addition, it will act as a formwork, since the grillage end raised above the ground by 10 cm. Pour concrete.

For the grillage we make formwork, lay the reinforcement and fill it with concrete. In order to raise it above the ground, you need to add sand, and pave the bottom of the formwork with foil.

Idezhe, after three days, you can start the construction of reinforced concrete floors.

On the seventh Tuesday, we erect walls that are connected to outside wall at home with fittings outlets.

Building up the roof in the vestibule.

Vestibule size

For residential buildings, the dimensions of the vestibule should be as follows: depth 1.4 m, width = width of the doorway + 0.3 m.

For public buildings the size of the vestibule is calculated slightly differently. The depth should be equal to the width door leaf+ 0.2 m, and width = door leaf width + 0.15 m on each side. Only in this case, the minimum depth should not be less than 1.2 m, and if disabled people abuse it, then the minimum depth should be 1.8 m and a width of 2.2 m.

Building a platform 1.4x1.2 m under the table on foot is not entirely rational. Therefore, this building often develops into a glazed veranda, where there is already more space and you can place some kind of furniture.

Sources: imhodom.ru, kak-svoimi-rukami.com, svoidomstroim.ru, hdinterior.ru

According to the standards, living rooms (bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. When they are sequentially opened, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living quarters.

At the same time, the house is kept warm, heating devices do not "warm" the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is kept, which is especially important when using an air conditioner.

Thus, both in winter and in summer, a more efficient use of climate technology is ensured and savings in heating or cooling costs are created.

In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts, prevents the penetration of smoke and unnecessary odors into the house. Finally, you can leave your shoes here, and with them the dirt from the street.

Reliable isolation

Whether the vestibule will act as a temperature barrier for the rest of the premises depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities.

The outer wall of the vestibule, being a part of the outer structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help to ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.

They make a wall of the same material as the whole house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of ceramic blocks or glued beams, is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend arranging a layer of insulation made of foam, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool).

For the latter, a film vapor barrier is required on the inside, which will prevent the insulation layer from getting wet and losing its qualities. Outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened on the heat-insulating layer and then covered with a finishing paint or plaster.

Vestibule technologies

The attached vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: a frame made of aluminum or plastic profiles with double glazing. At the same time, the main thing is to ensure reliable joining of the profile structure with the main wall.

To do this, arrange an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with a facade sealant or waterproofing tape.

The same seam must be made at the junction of the foundations of the cottage and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure, and close the joint on top with a cornice strip.

Also, in the vestibule, you need to pay special attention to see if there are any gaps: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow out with polyurethane foam, and clog small cracks with tow, seal with insulating tape or simply "close" with silicone sealant.

Vestibule doors

Particular attention should be paid to the doors. The outer one should be made of solid wood or a metal frame with inner insulation.

As the second, a balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and full sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours is perfect.

You can put a simple one, even interior door made of wood or plastic, you just need to knock it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.

To heat or not to heat?

There is a lot of controversy about the need and possibility of heating for the vestibule. Some experts strongly recommend routing the general heating system here in order to avoid frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule in frosts can cool so much that it ceases to play the role of a temperature buffer.

However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors, in order to avoid freezing of the coolant.

And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy consumption. The very essence of the vestibule is to be a buffer, a mixing zone for cold and warm air.

We heat the vestibule

Installation of two heating devices is permissible here. Firstly, it is a cable underfloor heating. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change of outdoor shoes for house slippers, and will accelerate the melting of snow, which is often brought in on the soles.

An air heat curtain will also benefit, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow.

It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (1.5-5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will only be used for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.

Tambour is essential in any private home. Many do not pay due attention to this small room, believing that the vestibule is only suitable for storing clothes and shoes, but this is not the case. It is very important to avoid drafts, additionally insulate front door and minimize the ingress of street dust directly into the house. In addition, the design of this room is also important: since the vestibule usually occupies a minimum area, its decoration should be simple and concise... At the same time, it is worth furnishing the vestibule as comfortably as possible, because it is in this space that you get right from the doorway.

Types of vestibules

Tambours in front of the entrance to the house are not always installed, but recently they have become more and more popular. To save money, the vestibules are made in the form frame extensions having a polycarbonate base, and more expensive option is an brick extension, which is also often done for large houses. This space is important to minimize the entry of cold air and dust into the living space. At the same time, vestibules are very diverse.

• Tambour-hallway Is the most common option. In this case, there is no need for an additional hallway directly in the house - very often it is not done at all. Thus, this vestibule allows you to save space - it will ideal option for small houses in which each square meter I want to use it as efficiently as possible. In such a space, you can place a small wardrobe, hooks, shoe shelves and a mirror. Important good lighting for maximum convenience.

Good lighting is important for maximum convenience.

• Tambour-veranda or combined with a balcony- This is usually a fairly spacious room with large windows that can be used for outdoor recreation. Here they often have a small table, bench, miniature storage cabinets, and on the windowsills you can grow seedlings or houseplants... To maintain a comfortable temperature, it is better to make double-glazed windows, insulated front door. A similar layout they are often chosen in spacious private houses or in cottages.

• Tambour-Seni often done in residential buildings: this option involves the use of space for household needs... This is an ordinary insulated porch, where everything you need for gardening, renovation and cleaning of the house is usually stored. However, even such a space can be stylishly decorated by arranging all the necessary things in the wardrobes.

Finishes and materials

The finish of the vestibule can be very different - everything will depend on your budget, the design of the exterior of the house, as well as the need to seriously insulate the vestibule or simply to avoid drafts. Materials for the vestibule can be varied - consider all options and determine which is best for your home:

• Plastic vestibule- This is enough economical option, which is often done for middle-class homes. In this case, the walls are assembled from PVC panels - this material sufficiently durable and resistant to changes in weather conditions. It is not difficult to assemble such a vestibule even on your own. At the same time, it is very important to insulate it. This can be done by upholstering the walls with additional insulation - the cheapest and traditional option felt, however, there are also more modern thermal insulation materials.

• Brick vestibule for brick house will look the most harmonious, and will also be the most durable and practical of all possible options- such a structure will stand for decades and will be able to protect the interior from wind and cold. The brick should be chosen to match the color of the house so that the vestibule fits into a single ensemble with the main structure. Brick tambour always looks good and often does not even require additional finishing from the inside, which is one of the undoubted advantages.

Brick tambour always looks good and often does not even require additional finishing from the inside, which is one of the undoubted advantages.

• Glass vestibule often made for use as a veranda. Can be made completely open glass walls and a framed ceiling. Such a project will not be cheap - especially when you consider that all glass must be insulated for a comfortable stay inside in cold weather. At the same time, such an unusual design solution is certainly worth its money: you will get an excellent view of the courtyard and will be able to feel like a part of nature, and indoor plants will feel great in this vestibule. One of possible problems it may become necessary to wet cleaning to keep the glasses transparent.

• Wooden vestibule most typical for the same wooden houses... However, any option can be trimmed with wood outside or inside - for example, brick or plastic. The tree is not the most practical material, on average, such vestibules have to be repaired in 10-12 years. At the same time, the tree can look great, it leaves a lot of room for imagination: you can make carved decorations, varnish the boards or paint them in any color. The tree will perfectly fit into the country-style design and will allow you to fully feel like a part of nature.

Determining the size

Many people abandon the vestibule for the reason that in a small house it will take up too much space, which you want to use as economically and expediently as possible. However, the vestibule may not take up as much space as it seems. Consider the following popular sizes and decide how spacious the vestibule is for you:

• The minimum depth of the vestibule is considered to be 1.4 m, and the width should be only 1 m. small houses economy class it seems that the smallest vestibule is optimal solution, although this is by no means always true. In a more spacious vestibule, you can place functional cabinets and shelves, a, at minimum size vestibule, it will take up space without performing any practical function.

Therefore, such a vestibule-porch should be done rather in a spacious house, where it is possible to make a separate hallway and veranda.

• For maximum space saving, suitable a medium-sized vestibule with a width of 3-4 m. In this space, you can easily equip a hallway: you can put a small wardrobe, place open wall shelves or shelves for shoes, hang hooks for outerwear and put a mirror. Thus, inside the house itself, there will be no need for a hallway.
• Spacious vestibules in private houses with a width of more than 5 m the owners often equip it like a veranda. It is especially good if there is a large window in the vestibule or it is possible to make a mirrored wall. At good insulation, such a vestibule will become a favorite place for breakfast or dinner in a small family. It is enough to put a small table and a few chairs.

DIY tambour

If desired, the vestibule can even be built with my own hands... It is an ordinary extension to a private house. If the house has a porch, the task will be greatly simplified - you just need to enclose it with walls. If there is no porch, you will need to make a foundation and a floor: if you have never been involved in construction, for this it is worth attracting professionals, otherwise, such an extension may become askew or collapse in just a few years.

When creating a vestibule in place of a porch, it is important to initially draw up a project correctly. Consider the following nuances:

• The walls of the vestibule can be made from a wide variety of materials. It can be wood, brick or PVC. PVC is easiest to work with, although brick and wooden walls you can also do it yourself.
• Install walls made of wood or PVC on a frame. It can be made from wood or metal rods. If you cannot work with welding, the wooden option is for you.
• For insulation inner surface walls should be sheathed with felt or modern materials keeping warm. Then the walls can be finished with plasterboard, painted or pasted with wallpaper.

• If possible, it is worth making a vestibule with a window - this will be especially useful for a spacious vestibule. At the same time, if you want to make glazing with double-glazed windows that will not allow cold air to pass through, you will have to turn to professionals for this.
• The plan should be developed taking into account how the annex is located in relation to the house. For example, you might have a house with a vestibule on the side or in the front. Consider making the house easy to enter from the street, but also how the vestibule will affect appearance at home. If you have cottage with a separate vestibule, you do not need to build it too wide. It is important that the extension looks harmonious.
• Consider lighting your room in advance. If you have a very small vestibule or an option with a window, one lamp will be enough. For spacious outbuildings, bright light from one or more sources is needed. This is especially important if you are going to use the vestibule as a hallway.

See below for a master class on the construction of a vestibule.

Tambour interior design

Many neglect interesting design solutions in the vestibule, not considering it as a full-fledged part of the house. At the same time, the situation at the threshold of the living quarters is very important - it is that from the very entrance to the house it will allow you to feel comfort. Almost any design can be made inside the vestibule - everything will depend on the layout, the purpose of the room, and also on your tastes.

Ceiling finishes are usually not very diverse. Most often they just cover it with white plaster, less often they do suspended ceilings... Sometimes the ceiling in the vestibule can be horizontal, and sometimes it is left in the form of a triangular roof - both of these options can look good.

In a spacious vestibule, some place lamps along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, but usually they are limited to one light source.

The floor can be finished in very different ways. Consider the following options:

• Some people prefer to leave the floor concrete, but in this case it will always be cold: it is worth laying a carpet and walking only in shoes.
• Linoleum is inexpensive option, which will allow you to finish the floor, and it is not at all difficult to lay it yourself. At the same time, in the vestibule of a private house this option often turns out to be not very practical, linoleum quickly scratches and tears.
• Instead of linoleum, you can put quality laminate... It will look better, last longer, and also be warmer. In addition, you can now find laminate flooring with very interesting design- for example, multi-colored or monotonous options that imitate wood, as well as models with prints and ornaments.

• Parquet is a rather expensive covering, which is rarely done in the vestibule. At the same time, it can look great, serve for decades, and also allow you to feel closer to nature - this is a great option for connoisseurs of country style.
• Many people make tiles on the floor. It can look very interesting, because the choice modern options the tiles are extremely large. In addition, you can cover the stairs with the same tiles, which will make the design more solid and harmonious.

The greatest scope for imagination leaves the design of the walls. Here the most different variants- it all depends on your preferences and layout:

• Wallpaper is used quite rarely - they can peel off quickly from the temperature contrast, so they are only suitable for temporary decoration.
• The easiest way to beautifully decorate indoor walls is to simply paint them. If the walls are perfectly flat, you can apply a thin layer of paint just over the plaster, and it will look good. If the walls are not perfect, you can give them texture - now there are techniques for embossing paint with strokes or splashes - this will help to make minor flaws invisible.

The paint should be chosen dark or in pastel colors- depending on the area. White walls should not be done, because they will quickly get dirty, and designers also recommend giving up bright colors in a small room.