How to sheathe a blockhouse outside the house. Wooden block house

When planning the construction of a brick, wooden or frame house, a cottage made of gas blocks, a cottage made of foam concrete, developers are faced with a dilemma :? The cladding should protect the building from heat loss, be durable, and also look elegant and original. All of the above requirements are met house cladding with a block house- in the photo, such buildings cannot be distinguished from log houses, besides, light finishing does not load the foundation and is an additional insulation. Simple editing is quite affordable for doing it yourself with the help of a training video film, and the price of the material is justified by the high quality.

Block house: brief description and benefits

A wooden block house is a panel (lining) with a rounded front side, obtained by sawing semicircular sections from logs along their perimeter (timber and boards are produced from the remainder). On the flat side, special cuts are made for condensate drainage and pressure compensation (you can see them in the photo). Different woods are used as raw materials, but it is better to choose products from spruce, pine, and the best option- larch: it is harder, it contains the most resins, therefore it is less prone to rotting. The technology provides for the impregnation of the block house with antifungal compounds at the production stage. From above, the panels are packed in a special protective film.

The elements are joined in pairs due to grooves and ridges, and for fastening to the walls, a crate is mounted, with which the finish is connected with fasteners. The woodworking industry produces a block house of the following standard sizes: 200 x 9 x 2 cm; 200 x 140 x 3 cm; 200 x 19 x 3.6 cm; 600 x 9 x 2 cm; 600 x 19 x 3.6 cm. The price depends on the category of the block house. Class A products are more expensive and of higher quality; the standard places less demanding requirements on class B products, the cost of which is somewhat lower.

Finishing with a block house gives the house the following qualities:

  • mechanical strength- the facade is able to withstand quite strong blows, and in case of accidental damage, it can be sanded with subsequent varnishing or painting;
  • aesthetic appeal due to the woody texture - pay attention to the exotic design of houses sheathed with a block house (photo);
  • vapor permeability of walls - excess moisture can be removed through the joints between the boards, as well as through the wood itself (in order to maintain this property, it is better to use an acrylic water-based dye or a hydrophobic silicone-based primer).

When carrying out facade work with your own hands, you can put heat-insulating material under the cladding, while the technology requires maintaining the ventilation gap in order to prevent rotting of the wooden covering.

Preparatory work

Exterior finishing with finished panels does not require lengthy preparation. The master will need the following materials and tools:

  • wooden slats with a section of 40 x 50 and 30 x 40 mm - for lathing;
  • waterproofing film;
  • Scotch;
  • foil roll-up vapor barrier;
  • mineral wool;
  • antifungal impregnation agent (for additional protection of the tree);
  • varnish or stain;
  • galvanized nails, screws or clamps;
  • additional elements - platbands, corners;
  • hacksaw or circular, screwdriver, stapler.

Before sheathing the house with a block house, the walls outside are cleaned of dirt, with wooden frame remove the remnants of the bark and cover the surface with an antiseptic. The panels are unpacked and left outside for a week under a canopy to adapt the material to the humidity of the air. If this requirement is neglected, gaps may appear between the boards after installation. After acclimatization, the block house is treated with an antifungal compound, allowed to dry and proceed with installation.

Block house assembly instructions

The cladding of the house with a block house, as the technology prescribes, is carried out by sequentially fixing the layers of the finishing and heat-insulating pie (the photos will help you navigate in this).

A waterproofing film is attached to the walls with adhesive tape, which releases moisture in one direction - from the house. To do this, the fleecy side of the material is directed inward, and the glossy side is directed outward (it is especially important to take this into account when cladding with a block house wooden house).

A vertical crate is installed with a step equal to the width of the mineral wool sheets (usually 50-60 cm), and the cross-section of the slats should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The bars are pre-protected from fungus and insects with special solutions. Insulation is placed in the cells between the bars on the waterproofing (for reliability, it is fixed with umbrella dowels).

To protect the mineral wool from destruction by air currents during strong wind, a vapor barrier is sewn to the crate with a stapler windproof film(always with the foil facing out). Through it, a counter-lattice with a thickness of 30 mm is nailed to the bars under the block house, which allows you to establish a gap between the panels and the wind barrier - due to this, the finish will be fully ventilated. In addition, air vents are left in the upper and lower parts of the facade for air intake.

Watching the video, note: the block house is being monitored in any convenient direction (from bottom to top or top to bottom). The main thing is to achieve a strictly horizontal arrangement by checking the first panel with a level. Further, the horizontal is controlled every 4-5 rows. When starting to do the work with your own hands and deciding how to sheathe a house with a block house, do not forget: the spike of the boards should be directed upward so that rainwater does not get into the grooves. The exterior wall finish is finished at least 30 cm above ground level, and the lower part of the house is faced with brick or special basement siding.

The question is often asked: what is the best way to fasten a wooden lining to the crate? In order not to damage the panels, clamps are used: the photo shows how to insert them into the grooves (this method is rather laborious). You can use nails, but only an experienced craftsman can hammer them in when sheathing with his own hands, who will not allow damage to the lock connection. The best and most common way is to fix the block house with self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are first drilled in the crate, corresponding to the diameter of the self-tapping screw and equal to half the thickness of the rail, and then the panels are mounted. The groove around the screw head is masked with a mixture of sawdust and glue.

In order to properly sheathe the outside of the house with a block house, you should Special attention to devote to the final stage. It is not necessary to connect the panels end-to-end in the corners: this requires careful marking of the ends of the elements for sawing, which entails unnecessary labor costs and makes it difficult to compensate for temperature expansions. Look at the photo: it is more rational to close the joints with special corners, placing them on glue. In the same way, window and doorways: defects and cracks are hidden behind the platbands.

It is worth noting that the price of cladding a house with a block house, carried out by specialists, is twice as high as that of a self-made installation. In the latter case, you will only have to pay for the cost of materials and their delivery. After completing all the operations according to the instructions, instead of an ordinary brick house, you will receive a complete imitation of a natural log house. A video clip with detailed comments will help to cope with the cladding of a house with a block house.

Many people dream of a wooden house, because it is the standard of ecological purity and beauty. But the construction entirely of wood will cost the customer a round sum, which not everyone can afford. Cladding the walls of a house with a block house is one of the options for saving money and obtaining the desired effect.

A modern block house is one of the types of wagon boards, which has the outer side of the panel in the form of a rounded log. This cladding material is used for finishing the building, both from the outside and from the inside. The main advantage of block house wall cladding is its excellent appearance and ease of fastening. Each panel has a tongue-and-groove connection system, which makes it possible to install independently without special tools and in the absence of professional skills.

Arrangement of interior and exterior decoration using imitation logs is a practical and modern step. Now on construction market you'll find wooden block house, as well as plastic and metal. Wood has several quality classes, for example, Extra class and A class are best suited for interior decoration, since they have a minimum number of knots and the absence of any other wood defects. Low class wooden block house is great for exterior decoration.

Plastic products can be either mass-dyed or have several layers of paint on the front side. It is better to choose dyed in bulk, as well as products made from primary raw materials. Siding made from waste has a significantly shorter service life.

Advantages and disadvantages of materials - we choose carefully

A metal block house is a great alternative to wood. Thanks to high quality multi-layer printing and the presence of many protective layers, such siding will last for several decades without changing its appearance. The cladding of a house with a metal block house is advantageous in that it practically does not require any maintenance. The main disadvantage wood block-house - the need for constant renewal of paintwork or impregnation.

These procedures must be performed at least once every five years, although for a longer service life of the finishing material, it will not be superfluous to re-paint and impregnate once every two years. In addition, the wooden block house is one of the most expensive species similar siding.

Metallic and plastic types in comparison with wood, they also have a significant disadvantage - whatever one may say, but they just imitate the appearance of wood texture.

It will be difficult to tell the difference from a distance, but up close this visual deception is revealed. All types are united by one undoubted quality - while sheathing the house with a block house it becomes possible to additionally insulate the house. Not to mention the aesthetic perception of a sheathed house - even the most ordinary-looking cinder block building will take on the appearance of a village hut, with an attractiveness characteristic of such buildings.

Do-it-yourself house cladding with a block house - features of choice

Despite the external simplicity, choosing a suitable wooden block house for the exterior decoration of the facade of the house is not an ordinary task. First, you should focus on the width of the blockhouse. The fact is that each manufacturer has its own measurements, and the material purchased in two different places may differ in terms of thickness and width.

Therefore, try to choose the most common sizes. For example, for the exterior of a building, it is best to use wide boards, up to 150 mm wide. Secondly, it is necessary to determine the type of wood from which the board is made. For outdoor siding of a block house, you need to use boards of coniferous trees (spruce, pine, larch) - they have increased resistance to the decay process.

It is also imperative to find out from which region of the country this board came on sale. Wood from the north has a higher density, which means it is more durable. This can be determined even visually - the northern wood has a smaller distance between the annual rings. Naturally, to decorate the facade of a building with a block house, you can use a board not only from northern forests.

Block house cladding technology - step by step instructions

In addition to the block house itself, you will also need other finishing materials - it's a sin not to use this opportunity and not to insulate the building at the same time. Both the cladding of a stone and the cladding of a wooden house with a block house have no fundamental differences. To begin with, the walls need to be surrounded by a layer of vapor barrier so that moisture from the house does not penetrate outside, forming condensation, which will significantly reduce thermal insulation properties materials.

A vapor barrier membrane is available in every hardware store. It is fastened with an overlap, joining the strips by 10-15 cm. The joints are best sealed with aluminum tape. Then you can proceed directly to the cladding of the building.

How to sheathe a house with a block house - a step by step scheme

Step 1: lathing for a block house

The size of the bars that are selected directly depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation plates. For example, for the central regions, the maximum thickness varies in the range of 10 cm. The distance between the wooden blocks should be no more than 60 cm, although it is best to adjust it to the size of the insulation boards. Before fixing, the selected bars must be treated with an antiseptic. For installation, it is better to use self-tapping screws or special nails (if the wall is made of stone - dowels), with wide heads.

Step 2: Installation of insulation

For convenience, it is best to use insulation, which is produced in elastic plates. When adjusting the lathing to its size, it is important to make the distance between the bars a few centimeters narrower so that the plates fit tightly into this space and rest against the bars.

Step 3: windscreen

The windscreen is attached to the bars with furniture stapler metal brackets, and to the insulation - double-sided tape... Wind insulation will prevent the winds from carrying away the heat that you are trying so carefully to keep inside the house.

Step 4: second lathing

It is attached to the wood of the first lathing by means of self-tapping screws. There are enough 5x5 cm strips - this is enough to ensure ventilation of the space under the block house.

Step 5: Sheathing the house with a block house

The most optimal way of fixing a block house is with self-tapping screws, since they minimize the likelihood that the cladding will "play" during changes in humidity or temperature. Correct installation block house to the wall - with a tongue upside down, in this case moisture will not collect in the grooves. The panels should not be fitted closely to each other - there should be a gap of about 3 mm.

Step 6: surface treatment

This stage is final. First of all, you need to treat the wall with a special primer solution. Then you can apply a layer of colorless paint or varnish on a wax base. Then, after drying, to remove wood lint, the surface is well sanded with an angle grinder or fine sandpaper. Only at the end of the sanding work can the final paint layer be safely applied.

The quality of the last stage directly depends on what period of time your facade of the house will not need additional care. It follows from this that there is no need to save on construction and paints and varnishes that ensure the longevity of the appearance of your residence.

The frame house, due to its simplicity of design, reliability, speed of construction, and most importantly, low cost, is gaining more and more popularity. House built according to frame technology, has high energy-saving performance. Such houses are erected on the basis of a frame made of wood or metal with their subsequent sheathing, in the middle of which thermal insulation, steam and waterproofing are placed. Most often, the sheathing of a frame house is made from OSB boards, therefore, in order to give the house an aesthetic appearance and, at the same time, additionally insulate and protect it from atmospheric influences, the house is finished with a block house or vinyl siding.

Facing material block house

Block house is one of the most popular types facing materials made from natural wood... In fact, this is the same lining only much thicker and is wooden planks, the front part of which is in the form of a hemisphere imitating a log, and the back part is flat. Along the profile cut, on the one hand, there is a groove, and on the other - a thorn. Having a relatively low cost, block house decoration is quite widely used for both exterior and interior walls. frame houses, facades of cottages, balconies.

Being an excellent imitation of rounded timber, the block-house lining has exceptional performance properties. The smooth surface of this material makes it possible to achieve the ideal appearance of the walls of a frame house.

The block house has the following advantages:
-Excellent sound insulation;
- it is an environmentally friendly material, as it is made of natural wood;
- aesthetic appeal (finishing a frame house with this material, perfectly imitates a house built from a log house);
-good thermal insulation characteristics;

For the manufacture of lining, as a rule, coniferous trees are used: larch, pine, spruce. The most expensive and, accordingly, the highest quality lining is made of larch. Depending on the quality, the block house is divided into two classes:
- class A - strong knots are allowed that do not fall out and wormholes with a width of no more than 3 mm and a length of up to 50 cm per one running meter;
- class B - on boards dark captive knots up to 45 mm in size and knots falling out no more than 65 mm, cracks up to 1 mm, wormholes no more than 8 mm wide are allowed;

The procedure for finishing a frame house with clapboard block house

It is very easy to sheathe a house with a block house and everyone can do it. The lining can be attached directly to the cladding of a frame house, or to the crate if you plan to use insulation. Most often, finishing with a block house is carried out according to a ventilated facade system, the design of which consists of the following layers:

  1. Outer wall
  2. Frame
  3. Insulation
  4. Windscreen
  5. Frame for ventilation gap device
  6. Block house

The presence of insulation and wind protection in the facade structure depends on how correctly the thickness of the insulation of the frame house itself was selected. If the thickness of the insulation is not enough or if you want to increase energy efficiency
at home, it is worthwhile to provide a layer of insulation in the cladding structure.

Frame device

For the construction of the frame, wooden bars with a section of 40x50 mm or a galvanized metal profile SD-60 for drywall are used. Again, the size of the timber depends on whether you are going to use insulation, if the insulation will not be used, then the size of the cross-section of the lathing timber can be reduced to 30x30 mm to provide a ventilation gap. The fastening of the battens to the wall is carried out using direct drywall hangers (for a frame made of wood or metal) or by directly screwing wooden blocks to the wall using self-tapping screws. The step between the lathing bars is taken 50-60 cm.
The installation of the lathing begins from the corners of the house, exposing them strictly vertically. As soon as the corner bars are exposed, a rope is pulled between them and the rest of the elements are mounted along it.

Block house assembly

After the crate is mounted and insulation is laid, if necessary, a windshield is attached on top of it, onto which slats are packed to ensure a ventilation gap of at least 3 cm. Finishing with a block house is done horizontally, the order of installation from bottom to top or top to bottom is of no fundamental importance.

useful in work

The lining board must be placed with the spike upwards, this arrangement makes it possible to avoid the accumulation of dirt and moisture in the groove, which will increase the service life of the cladding.

There are two ways to fix the board for the exterior decoration of the frame house, directly into the board or into the base of the spike.

For fastening, nails or self-tapping screws are used, for the outer sheathing it is better to take with an anti-corrosion coating. If sheathed with a blockhouse as shown in option B, then the screw head must be drowned 2 mm into the board, followed by sealing the hole with putty or wooden cork. You need to use 2 self-tapping screws for the width of each board, you need to fasten them along the lace so that they are on the same line. If fastened according to option A, then the self-tapping screw is screwed into the base of the spike and during installation is completely closed by the next board, this method of fastening will make it possible to avoid additional work... The head of the screw, as in option B, must be sunk into the board.

Block house joining methods

To join the boards along the length, you need to make cuts at an angle of 30 on both parts, if you use an angle of 90 for joining, the joint will be noticeable. You can also use decorative strips for docking. Several methods are used to connect the boards in the corners:

  1. With the help of washed down the ends of the boards at an angle of 45 0, this work requires great precision, such a joining assumes that in the future, due to shrinkage of the board, cracks may form in these places, they can be repaired with putty.
  2. With the help of external and internal corners, which are attached to the outside of the boards.
  3. With a rectangular bar, which is installed exactly in the corner, and boards are already fitted to it strictly at a right angle, the thickness of the bar should be less than the thickness of the board.
  4. By adjusting the end of the board in accordance with their relief, this method is very time consuming, but the corners made in this way look very effective. To do the docking in this way, you need to cut a stencil.

Thanks to this template, a line is drawn on the back of the board and cut along it with a jigsaw. Then the board is put in its place and a line is neatly drawn with a pencil, seeing the pencil directly on the surface of the mounted wall. The board is removed and already with the help of a tape grinder the excess is removed, the formed burrs are sanded with sandpaper... You should get a neat and tight joint.

Surface protection of outer sheathing

To provide long-term operation finishing block house, protected from atmospheric influences. For this, the surface is opened with an antiseptic for outdoor use. For the first layer, you can use a cheaper primer without UV protection, after it dries, you need to sand the surface, and then apply the required number of layers of varnish or paint.

A successfully completed exterior decoration of a house is the achievement of several goals at once: improving the appearance, the appearance of a protective layer that protects against external influences and ensuring correct regime functioning of the wall cake.

One more important point should be added to this list: the ability to install cladding with your own hands.

The main selection criterion, most often, is the appearance, since the rest of the functions are performed imperceptibly and strongly stretched over time.

The decorative qualities of the cladding material depend on the taste of the consumer, on his preferences. The wood cladding of the house is traditional for our country and is well perceived visually. One of the common and effective types of wood cladding is the block house.

What is a block house

Block house is one of the types of siding. The appearance of the cladding is a convex elongated strip; in the set, the material imitates a log frame. The classic type of block house is made of wood and, according to the type of panel joining and common features, is one of the types of lining. The wall sheathed with a block house has the appearance of a wooden house made of logs, but is devoid of the drawbacks of this type of buildings.

Block house advantages:

  • During its manufacture, the material undergoes a cycle of special procedures that reduce the ability to change linear dimensions, warping, cracking and water absorption.
  • Has high mechanical strength, resistant to external influences and easily lends itself different ways local restoration.
  • The light weight of the block house does not create unnecessary stress on the supporting structures of the house.
  • Environmentally friendly material.
  • Possesses high frost resistance.
  • Has high heat-saving properties.

However, there are some disadvantages:

  • Wood is flammable, even with regular impregnations fire retardants the risk of fire remains high.
  • The material needs periodic maintenance - painting, impregnation, etc.
  • Vapor permeability of the block house is very low, which makes it necessary to take measures to increase the ventilation of the sewing area.
  • A wooden block house is much more expensive than other types of cladding.

The properties of a block house are somewhat different from conventional types of wood paneling. Operating conditions, loads experienced and temperature drops put forward certain requirements for the quality of the material. In the manufacture of wood, it undergoes special processing, deep drying, impregnation with compounds that reduce moisture absorption and the ability to burn.

The reverse side of the panel is flat with two or more grooves to compensate for dimensional changes during swelling and exclude swelling of the surface. Front side is a segment of a circle that simulates the surface of a log in a log house. The connection is made into a tongue-groove located on opposite edges. A set of panels repeats a neatly made frame made of turned calibrated logs, making the appearance of the facade neat and solid.

Block house types - which one to choose?

Block house is a material that has many varieties. The traditional look is wooden panels, according to the principle of joining and the general appearance, close to the lining.

They have several varieties, divided by the quality of the material:

  • NS- Extra. Perfectly glued wood, straight grained, without knots and flat defects.
  • A- Clean surface without damage, chips or scoring. A certain amount of small adherent knots may be allowed.
  • V- Some defects, knots or slight flaws in the material are acceptable.
  • WITH- There are quite a few shortcomings. The material is used for finishing auxiliary buildings that are not visible from the side of the facade.

In addition to the wooden block house, there are analogues from other materials:

  • Vinyl.
  • Metallic (galvanized steel),

The panel can have one wave, two or more. Vinyl or metal panels usually have 2 waves. Wooden - mostly one, but options are possible.

Vinyl and metal panels are devoid of the disadvantages inherent in wood samples, but they have their own pros and cons.

The main advantages of alternative types of material are as follows:

  • Resistant to water.
  • Lack of ability to burn.
  • They do not rot, fungus or mold does not appear on them.
  • They do not require maintenance, painting, etc.
  • They have many color options.

The disadvantages include:

  • Vinyl siding is fragile at low temperatures.
  • The high coefficient of thermal expansion creates certain difficulties in installation.
  • Low level of heat and sound insulation.

Vinyl and metal panels are much cheaper than wood, which in no small part contributes to the greater popularity of these types of material.

Necessary tools for installation and accessories

The installation of vinyl and metal siding is the same for almost all types and types of material. Therefore, the installation of a wooden block house will be considered, since there are fundamental differences.

For installation you will need:

  • Electric drill.
  • Screwdriver, screwdriver.
  • Roulette, level, hammer.
  • Awl for pricking the centers of holes for self-tapping screws.

The list of tools can be significantly expanded, since the order of installation work largely depends on the condition and material of the walls.

As additional elements for a wooden block house, some metal elements can be used - near-window strips, corner overlays, soffits, internal corners, etc. There are no special wooden elements, corners or abutments are adjusted using conventional carpentry methods.

Facade surface preparation

Preliminary preparation - critical stage works, on the thoroughness of which depends on the durability and quality of service of the wall cake and cladding.

Procedure:

  • Removal of all foreign objects, dismantling of air conditioners, gutters, brackets, etc.
  • Inspection and detection of all existing deficiencies.
  • Deleting old paint, exfoliated or crumbling areas... The surface must be completely solid and solid, all weak areas are removed as much as possible.
  • Sealing potholes or dents resulting from removing problem areas... Putty is used. In the presence of a large number dents or at a great depth, a continuous plastering of the surface is recommended.
  • The last stage of the preparatory work is the application of a double coat of primer with intermediate drying according to the instructions of the user.

NOTE!

Should not be neglected in any way preparatory work... The condition of the walls should be as close to ideal as possible. After installation of the access casing, there will be no possibility of monitoring or changing the state of the walls. All possible actions should be done in advance.

Wall cake and ventilated facade arrangement

Wall cake is a collection of all the layers that make up the wall of the house.(device photo below):

  • The inner wall itself is the enclosing structure.
  • Insulating material.
  • Steam-waterproofing membrane.
  • The lathing (or, as it is otherwise called, the subsystem).
  • Ventilation gap.
  • External cladding (in our case, a house block).

The maximum composition of the wall cake is listed... In some cases, there is no need for a ventilation gap or insulation material. Moreover, if there is no ventilation gap, then the insulation is impervious to steam (foam or EPS). The lack of insulation, most often, requires a ventilation gap to organize the steam outlet from under the casing.

Selection and installation of the lathing

The crate is Basic structure for the installation of cladding, performing at the same time:

  • Leveling function in the presence of imperfections in the geometry of the walls.
  • Forming a ventilation gap.
  • Supporting insulating material (not the best way, but it is used quite often).

The structure of the lathing is a one- or two-layer system of slats. The first layer is leveling, it forms a plane and supports the insulation. The second layer is installed across the first, it forms a ventilation gap and directly carries the skin.

As a material, wooden blocks can be used or, which is much more effective, metal guides for gypsum board. The installation of the lathing is carried out on pre-installed brackets or straight suspensions for the gypsum board. Self-tapping screws with a tip for a drill are used to fasten the strips.

Insulation installation

Insulation performs at least two tasks:

  • Reduces the cost of heating the house.
  • Eliminates the formation of condensation on the walls and materials wetting, leading to their destruction.

The choice of insulation is a rather difficult task. In order to use the most suitable type, you must understand the physical essence of its work. The main property is vapor permeability, i.e. the ability to let water vapor pass through the walls.

If the insulation vapor permeable(for example, all types of mineral wool), then a ventilation gap must be made.

Impervious types of insulation(foam, EPS) do not require the formation of a ventilation gap, but for the removal of water vapor, it will be necessary to create effective system ventilation.

The insulation is installed on the prepared wall surface.

The most successful course of action:

  • Installation of lathing brackets.
  • Insulation laying. The material fits snugly onto the surface without gaps or gaps. The brackets are passed through the incised sections of the insulation. If necessary, the gaps should be filled with polyurethane foam.
  • On top of the installed insulation, a sealed layer of a vapor-waterproof membrane is mounted, which protects the insulation from external (atmospheric) moisture.
  • Wall waterproofing and vapor barrier

Hydro- and vapor barrier is made using a special film (the best option is a vapor-waterproofing membrane). Installation of protection can be done either from the inside or from the outside.

  • Internal installation is carried out using impervious types of insulation(polystyrene, penoplex, EPS, etc.). It acts as a cutoff of internal steam from wall materials, preventing condensation and wetting of the walls.
  • External installation of protection is made on top of the insulation... In this case, the film protects the material from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing steam from the inside. This option makes it possible to remove moisture from the walls and keep them dry and efficient.

The film is installed in rows with an overlap of 15-20 cm with gluing the joints with special tape.

How to trim a block house at an angle

Trimming at an angle is performed either with an electric saw installed in a special jig with markings... Such a device allows you to adjust the position of the saw so that the cut will be made exactly at the set angle.

Another option is to make a miter box - a simple device in which a hacksaw moves in the grooves of two bars. It takes very little time to make a miter box, but you will need to accurately file the guide grooves.

How to join panels at the outer and inner corners

Docking of corner joints of a block house can be done in different ways:

  • No special action is taken the corner connection is made by installing the corresponding profile additional element.
  • A planed bar of square section is installed along the axis of the corner, against which the ends of the panels abut... The option is good, but you will need to accurately calculate the thickness of the timber and the length of the panels so that the connection is as tight as possible.
  • The panels are cut at 45 °, after installation, the panels corresponding to each other on different sides of the corner are connected with self-tapping screws. To do this, a blind hole must be drilled in one panel at an angle, into which the screw head will pass. Thus, the panels will be attracted to each other, you get a tight and neat connection. The holes should then be plugged and sanded flush.
  • The most difficult option - the corners of the panels are sawn at 45 ° and are precisely adjusted to each other without joining together.

How is the length joining done?

To dock a block house, you can use the following options:

  • Straight vertical strips against which the ends of all panels abut (analogue of the H-strip for vinyl or metal siding).
  • Tight end-to-end joining (precise 90 ° trimming required).
  • One end is trimmed at 90 °, the other is also trimmed at 90 °, but in the opposite direction. The joint can be pulled together with a self-tapping screw, providing a strong and tight connection... The screw is screwed in at an angle, the hole is closed with a plug and sanded flush.

Methods for attaching a block house and the order of house cladding

How to sheathe a wall with a block house? The panels can be fixed in different ways:

  • Through fastening through face surface ... The easiest way, but the appearance will be spoiled by the presence of nail heads or screws.
  • Fastening with self-tapping screws screwed into a thorn... After installing the next panel, the screws are not visible, which will significantly improve the appearance of the canvas. The disadvantage of this method is the need to screw the screws into the edge of the thorn, which will cause a loose connection, you will need to trim the mating part in the places where the screws are installed, the thorn may chip.
  • Using clamps... The easiest and most reliable way. The fastener tongue is inserted into the groove, the clamp is screwed or nailed to the crate. The connection is tight, strong and non-destructive.

The panels are mounted with a thorn up or down:

  1. The first option is used if the fastening is made on screws, the second - on clamps.
  2. The first panel is installed with a small gap between the supporting surface to form a ventilation slot.
  3. A similar gap is made in the upper part of the canvas so that the air under the skin can circulate freely. The thorn-groove connection should be made as tight as possible, avoiding gaps in which moisture can accumulate.
  4. When connecting, do not hit hard with a hammer on the panel, as there is a danger of flattening the tongue or groove and complicating the connection of the next panel.

Pediment finishing technology

Before starting work, you should think over the layout of the panels so that you get a symmetrical pattern. All end connections are best done in one place, so that the symmetrically installed vertical strips create some kind of decorative element.

This is especially important when the gable area is large, when the length of the panel is not enough. Trimming panels at an angle can be done both on the ground and directly on site, for greater accuracy, but this option is possible in the absence of a soffit or an unshielded roof overhang.

The block house is a natural material that allows you to simulate a log cabin with a high degree of realism. Accuracy, dimensional accuracy and ease of installation make this cladding one of the most preferred materials, and the ability to periodically tint the canvas and update the facade of the house allows you to constantly have a new look of the walls, which is unattainable when using other types of cladding. High quality material contributes to long term plating services.

Useful video

Instructions for cladding a block house on the example of interior decoration:

  • 03/11/2015

House cladding with block house: subtleties and nuances of technology

At its core, the cladding of a house with a block house is nothing extraordinary - in almost exactly the same way, many modern finishing materials are installed. If we draw analogies, then their closest relatives in this business can be called any type of lining and any type of ventilated facades - if not the subtleties of the installation, then at least their cladding principle is identical and is nothing more than the assembly of the designer. He will be discussed in this article, in which we will deal with the question of how the house is clad with a block house - we will study the sequence of work and pay special attention to the intricacies of their implementation.

House cladding with block house: design features of the facade

Decorating a block house is nothing complicated, especially if, before starting work, a person bothered to get acquainted and understand the structure of facades of this type. In order for the work to be performed with high quality, and the facade served for a long time, you need to understand the purpose of each individual structural element and install them based on this, without violating technological process... Let's take a closer look at the device of a ventilated facade using a block house. It consists of six main elements.

  1. Vapor barrier. This structural element is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture vapor contained in the wall. It is arranged in such a way that it allows these vapors to pass only in one direction - into the wall. This is necessary in order for the insulation to remain constantly dry - it should be understood that the material saturated with moisture for insulation cannot cope with its tasks.
  2. Lathing. This structural element is designed to provide a cavity between the wall and the block house and serve as the basis for attaching the slats. Without it, it will not be possible to install the house block on the facade. As a rule, it is wooden bar section 100 by 40mm and 50 by 40mm - it all depends on the thickness of the insulation used. In fact, this is a frame for a block house.
  3. Insulation. There is no need to explain for a long time here, and the purpose of this structural element is clear as daylight. Both mineral wool and foam of appropriate thickness can be used as insulation - as a rule, for high-quality insulation at home they use insulation 100mm thick.
  4. Wind protection. Again, this is the protection of the insulation from the moisture contained in the air. This material is attached directly to the sheathing timber.
  5. Counter grill. This is a small section bar (usually 20 by 40 mm), the task of which is to provide a ventilated space between the block house and the wind barrier. Without this ventilation gap, the house block will quickly rot.
  6. Block house. Front casing, which is nothing more than one of the varieties wooden lining- their difference lies in the profile of the material. At the block house, it imitates a rounded log.

This is what the facade of the house looks like in section, using such a finishing material as a block house. As you can see, there is nothing special in it, and having understood the principle of its operation and design features, you can safely proceed to the question of how to install a house block with your own hands?

How to sheathe a house with a block house with your own hands: stages of work

The principle is the principle, and detailed instructions for installing this or that building material have not bothered anyone yet. The fact is that it may not be enough to know the design of the facade for its successful manufacture. A person without experience in this matter may need knowledge of the subtleties and nuances, without which it is impossible to do in construction. We will deal with this further, along the way having studied the sequence of work performed, which is dictated by the wall cladding with a block house.

  1. Installation of a vapor barrier. This material is a film that is sold in rolls with a width of 1500 mm - it is cut into strips of appropriate length and attached under the top of the house in several places so that it simply does not fall. Its main fastening is provided by the lathing beam, which is mounted at the next stage of work. There is one subtlety here - adjacent strips should overlap each other with an approach of about 20-30 cm.
  2. Installation of the lathing (frame). On even walls, this work is done quite simply - holes are drilled in the bar through which it is attached to the wall by means of long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts in the case of brick or concrete walls at home. The lathing beams are installed with a pitch of 500 mm. The sequence of its installation on each separate wall is as follows - first, the bars that are extreme from the corner are mounted (at a distance of 200mm from the corner itself). Then intermediate bars are installed. If the walls are long, then in order to maintain aesthetics, it is better to install the supports from the corner to the center - this moment is due to the length of the slats of the house block (as a rule, it is 2.5 or 3 m). Whole strips are mounted from the corners, and inserts are simply made in the center. By the way, when installing the pillar bars, or rather when choosing a step, you need to take into account the displacement of the rails towards the corners.
  3. The next stage of work, which provides for the technology of installing a block house, is insulation. Everything here is quite simple - mineral wool insulation is placed between the frame beam. It can be fixed using "umbrellas" (this is a plastic dowel with a wide head), or you can simply insert it, as if wedging it between the bars.
  4. Installation of windscreens. The wind protection film is realized in exactly the same rolls as the vapor barrier. Its fastening is carried out using a stapler - it is simply nailed to the crate with staples. Again, overlap should not be forgotten.
  5. Installation of a counter-lattice. This is also a fairly simple stage of work - all that is required here is to sew a thinner beam on top of the sheathing bar. It can either be nailed or screwed in with self-tapping screws - here as you like, but keep in mind that the self-tapping screw holds the rail better. It is better to drill holes for it so as not to split the counter-lattice bar - in this regard, it is more convenient to use nails.
  6. Mounting block house. This stage of work is also not very difficult, the most difficult thing here is pruning. In all other respects, the solution to the question of how to mount a house block looks quite simple. We start from the bottom - we take the first rail, orient it along the future corner of the house (it is better to compare the lower rails of the two walls) and simply screw it on with self-tapping screws through in advance drilled holes in the protrusion of the groove block house. Lazy craftsmen can view the option of attaching the rails with nails directly through the body of the lining. An important point that ensures a beautiful appearance of the facade is the control of the horizontal position of the rails - it is imperative to check the first row, and then you can check it less often (say, after two or three rows).
  7. The final stage of work on finishing the facade of the block house is the installation of platbands - they are mounted on both sides of the outer and inner corners, thereby bringing them into a decent appearance and at the junction of the strips along the length. Platbands are fixed as standard, with the help of nails - they are staggered with a step of 300 mm.

This is the whole technology for installing this material. In principle, this short installation instruction for the house block displays only the essence of the process, the technology itself, depending on the base of the walls, may undergo some changes. For example, if we talk about frame wooden houses, the walls of which are well insulated inside, then the house block can be attached directly to the OSB cladding of the house, without a frame.

In conclusion, the topic about cladding a house with a block house, I will add only one thing - for different types material of this group, different materials are used for the frame. For example, vinyl block the house can be installed on a frame made of gypsum board profiles, and the house metal block is mounted on a special system of profiles. And by and large, apart from the features of the frame, all this material is mounted in the same type, and if you understand the principle described above, then sheathing the facade with a block of a different type of house will not be difficult for you.

The cladding of a house with a block house is due to a number of characteristic advantages. For example, this material is lightweight and easy to install; you can sheathe a house with a blockhouse yourself. Outwardly, it looks great, in addition, you will have the opportunity to additionally insulate the walls and make waterproofing.

Sheathing the house with a block house allows you to additionally insulate the walls and make waterproofing.

Advantages and disadvantages

The house block ensures the durability of the finish, it is durable and resistant to adverse conditions. It is environmentally friendly and safe to use, does not have the ability to modify. This material does not fade in the sun, it is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature. In addition, panels of such material are capable of quick recovery after damage. They do not make the foundation of the house heavier, prevent the appearance and development of fungi and bacteria, while maintaining the warmth of the interior of the houses (if you install heaters).

The multi-layer structure of the block house allows it to be resistant to any adverse conditions.

Facing the house with a block house makes it possible to ventilate the facade or insulate the attic. It is practical and reliable material for cladding any home. But, like all finishing materials, the house block has its drawbacks.
The main disadvantage of a block house made of wood is its flammability. This factor poses a danger to the residents of the house, so manufacturers try to treat the wood with a special solution, thereby reducing the risk of fire. Wood, as a rule, requires special care, which will add hassle to you during installation (treatment with an antiseptic, water-repellent primer is necessary). As for the metal type of this material, the blockhouse is finished with insulation due to its high thermal conductivity.

The material, the meaning of which literally translates as "blocks for the house", came from Europe. Thanks to its technical specifications and beautiful appearance, it quickly gained popularity. Today you will find many block houses. This material is made of wood or copies natural wood species.

Some features and types of material

House cladding with a blockhouse can be done on stone, cement, brick, that is, on almost any surface. Such unique material will serve as a decoration for the facade of residential buildings. Do-it-yourself home decoration is possible, since such work does not require special skills, and it will save your budget.

A house made of a wooden block house is similar to a house made of natural wood.

There are several types of block houses: wood, metal and vinyl (made of artificial material). Everyone has their own individual characteristics and installation features. For example, a material called house block wood is a carefully crafted plank. On the one hand, the surface is flat, on the other - convex. A house finished with this material is similar to a house made of natural wood.

Depending on the type of wood used, the house block has different properties. So, coniferous material is resistant to rotting and mold formation due to its antiseptic properties. The cladding of the house with larch material guarantees the durability of the cladding, which will serve long years, while not losing its original appearance. House cladding with a pine blockhouse is a good choice for those who cannot afford to purchase expensive material. However, not all wood materials suitable for cladding houses. A block house is not made of spruce, this material does not have sufficient strength.

Most often, industrial buildings are sheathed with a metal block with a house.

The metal blockhouse consists of steel (galvanized) and polymer coating that protects against harmful influences. The metal coating will give the facade of the house an unusual, neat look (the color range is varied) and is much cheaper than vinyl and wood. It is used most often in industrial buildings, since metal is in no way associated with home comfort.

Vinyl siding blockhouse is the optimal solution for all types of buildings. The vinyl material is stronger and more reliable than the real one, therefore it is most preferred. Resistant to moisture, does not require special maintenance, easy to install, does not rot and mold, this material is often used to decorate the interior and exterior of the house.

How to make a house cladding with a block house? First, you need to decide on the type of block house and prepare the surface. The installation of wood and vinyl types of material is different, so the same instructions cannot be used.

How to do the job yourself: step by step instructions

Walls made of wood must be impregnated with linseed oil to protect them from decay.

The first stage is done regardless of the type of material - this is surface preparation. The purpose of this work is to clean the walls from dirt, bumps, irregularities and other defects. Preparation is being made so that in the future there will be no problems with the destruction of the surface of the finished part of the house. Dimples and bumps are corrected with cement mortar, and to protect the surface from mold, you need to use an antiseptic primer. Saturate wood-based walls with linseed oil, which will save you from problems with decay. Now the surface is ready for block house finishing, and you can start the main part of the work.

House cladding with a blockhouse made of wood

The lathing for the house block must be installed in 50 cm steps vertically.

The whole work process is divided into 5 stages. To wall the house wood paneling, you will need:

  • accessories for the lathing (bars);
  • pin;
  • boards: corner type and ebb;
  • brush;
  • antiseptic;
  • level;
  • sandpaper;
  • hammer;
  • saw;
  • self-tapping screws (screws);
  • electric drill and drill driver.

How to sheathe a building with a blockhouse without making mistakes? Check out the following step by step instructions and you will see that it is not difficult:

  1. Make sure the surface is dry. To get rid of moisture from wood walls, you should apply a water-repellent primer. If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then use a waterproofing film.
  2. To fix the cladding strips, place the battens vertically in 50 cm increments. Check the correctness of the guides using a square, a level and a plumb line.
  3. Holes are drilled on the panels of the wooden block of the house for fasteners.
  4. Process facing works performed on galvanized self-tapping screws. After finishing the finish, the caps from these screws are poured with building glue (waterproof) or you can use pads (sold with the material).
  5. With the help of locking grooves, the work of cladding a block house is greatly facilitated.

Do-it-yourself house cladding always starts from the bottom of the surface. Compared to other types of panels, this material is fixed horizontally. The peculiarity of the blockhouse installation is that the cleats are fixed to the crate with self-tapping screws, and the 1st bar is inserted into the legs with the groove down. This must be done so that the moisture in the recesses does not heat up. In this case, a groove of the other is inserted into the spike of one board.
If self-tapping screws are used in the work, holes are drilled in the lower part of the board and the upper one. Remember that the distance between the fasteners should be no more than 40 cm. The screw is screwed into the spike of the board at an angle of 45 °.

When installing a vinyl block of a house, it is necessary to leave a spruce of 10 mm between the panels.

When installing a vinyl blockhouse, consider the weather conditions. Vinyl tends to shrink or, conversely, expand. Therefore, when laying the panels, make a small gap of about 10 mm.
One of the problems that you can face when sheathing the outside of the house is the joining of panels in its corners. There are skirting boards that hide the joints, but the house block is difficult to fit into them. The optimal solution would be to bend the walls of the corners, and then hide the joint with a semicircular wagon board, securing it with construction glue. Experts, however, hide the corners in the log house, making a so-called groove. Everything sharp corners can be hidden under a wooden slat.

Another significant nuance when working with block house panels is how to properly lay the last panel. It is necessary to cut off the excess part of it and fit it under the upper part of the house. If your ceiling is ready, then you can hide the unevenness with a baseboard. If it is to be finished, you should hide all the flaws in the installation process.

Now you know how to sheathe a house with a block house, and you can do it yourself. It doesn't take much of your time, and you don't need much construction experience. The main thing is to correctly calculate the material and arm yourself necessary tool... If everything is done correctly, the block house will not only delight you with its presentable appearance for many years, but also protect the building from the harmful effects of the environment.











A wooden house in a "rural" area looks as natural and attractive as a brick house in a city. Especially when the material for the walls is a rounded log. But a log is not cheap, and a lot of time must pass for the house to shrink and Finishing work... Therefore, other materials and technologies are often used. And in order to create a reliable imitation of a log house, they choose a house block for exterior decoration of the house.

House block as a type of facade lining

According to its purpose, method of fastening and connection, the house block is a kind of "lining".

In fact, the production technology can be imagined as cutting a bar out of a rounded log, as a result of which four slabs with a regular spherical surface will remain - they serve as a blank for a block house. It remains only to cut a spike along one side length, on the other - to cut off and cut a groove. And of course, grooves must be made on the seamy side to relieve internal stress in the wood.

In addition to the above, there is a manufacturing technology from "standard" sawn timber - boards or beams. But due to the large amount of waste, its cost will be higher than that of the traditional one.

Such a cutter is used to cut a house block from a bar or board.

If we talk about the grade, then there are no domestic standards for this type of sawn timber. But in practice, manufacturers have developed their own classification, according to which there are three "pure" options and two "mixed".

The "clean" options are A, B, C.

Grade “A” differs from “B” in the number of healthy knots per 1 m, their admissible diameter (15 mm versus 20 mm) and the absence of “black” knots and cracks. For grade "B" small and short cracks are allowed, plus a small amount of "black", but not falling out knots.

Grades "C" and "BC" are not used for decorating houses, they are suitable for building fences or decorating outbuildings somewhere in the backyard.

Sheathing board is just lumber - the quality requirements are the same as for other jobs

For the exterior cladding of a house with a house block, panels with a thickness of at least 30 mm are taken. And due to the peculiarities of massive sawn timber, it is almost impossible to find a "perfectly" clean house block 4-6 m long, therefore a "mixed" grade "AB" appeared. In addition, even when storing sawn timber, small defects in the form of shallow cracks may appear.

Sometimes there is another classification borrowed from European manufacturers: "Extra" ("Prima"), "A" "B" "C". If we draw parallels, then "Extra" will be the "pure" grade "A".

With such a length, it is impossible to find a panel "without a knot and a hitch", and for cladding the facade it is not necessary

Advice! Since there are no standards for a block house, manufacturers are free to assign any sort of product to their products. Therefore, when buying, you need to make sure that the declared quality meets your requirements.

Wood selection criteria

Even the vinyl siding "Block House" has certain characteristics, testifying to the quality of the facade panels. Wood is a "thinner" material, and in many respects the durability of the outer cladding depends on the correct choice. Therefore, it is not enough to evaluate the conformity of the variety - the density, resistance to moisture and strength of the wood are important.

Only conifers are used to decorate the house with a block house. Hardwoods (linden, oak, ash) are used for interior wall cladding.

Larch is considered an elite material and its qualities a priori correspond to the operating conditions on outdoors: high humidity and the effects of precipitation. The density and strength of Russian larch, like that of the northern tree species (it still grows in Siberia), will also be at a high level.

Larch has a dense and durable wood, so it is not in vain that it belongs to the elite of conifers.

With pine it is not so unambiguous. Most of all for facade decoration northern pine is suitable - its strength and density are much higher than that of wood from warm regions. And the origin of the pine block of the house is determined by the distance between the annual rings - the closer they are to each other, the better. The quality criterion is at least three rings per 1 cm of the end cut.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of finishing and insulation of houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How to choose the width

There are criteria for choosing the diameter of a rounded log, depending on the purpose and size of the house.

When building a small house for seasonal residence (summer house, summer house), a log with a diameter of up to 220 mm is used, the visible part of which lies in the range of 150-180 mm.

For a "full-size" heated house, the minimum diameter of the log is 240 mm, the recommended diameter is 260-280 mm. And the visible part is 190-210 mm.

To maintain the "proportions", the width of the house block must correspond to the visible part of the log:

  • for a cottage - 140-150 mm (with a thickness of 28-36 mm);
  • for a large house - 190 mm and above (with a thickness of 36-45 mm).

Plating options

The house block installation method is the only one - along a vertical crate with a horizontal arrangement of panels.

The lathing is needed in any case. Even when sheathed wooden house, and it is possible to mount the panels directly to the wall, a ventilation gap is required to weather the moisture (otherwise the wood will start to rot).

The issue of insulation is decided depending on the seasonality of residence and the materials of the walls. If this is a "summer" house, then the insulation is not carried out. It is also possible not to install thermal insulation materials when the house is built using frame technology or from foam concrete blocks 40 cm thick.

Sheathing during the construction of a "skeleton", as another option for using a block house

In other cases, wall insulation is mandatory - the costs will quickly pay off due to savings on heating and air conditioning.

Installation features

Despite belonging to the lining, the methods of attachment to the crate when cladding a house with a block house are different than when carrying out internal work.

Inside, narrow modifications of panels of small thickness (up to 20-22 mm) are used, and the operating conditions are characterized by stability of humidity and temperature. Therefore, the house block can be fixed to the crate with the help of flush-mounted fasteners - cleats. Exterior decoration is carried out with a thick and wide sheathing board, in which, with changes in humidity, such internal stress forces arise that it can simply be pulled out of engagement.

Video description

You can clearly see the block house decoration in the video:

The second reason that does not allow the use of clamps for external cladding- the way the block house is located on the facade. The groove to which the bracket "clings" must point downward (so that moisture does not get into it). And with this orientation, the panels can be mounted on the clamps only from top to bottom.

Therefore, the outer cladding is carried out in one of two ways:

  1. Open. The panel is screwed to each beam at two points - from the side of the groove and closer to the spike. Before fastening, holes are drilled into which the screws are screwed in with force so that their heads do not protrude above the surface of the panel. Then these places are putty, disguising as a small knot. This mounting method is the safest and is recommended for thick and wide house blocks.
  2. Hidden. The bottom panel near the groove is attached open way, plus at the base of the thorn, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 ° into which self-tapping screws are screwed. Each next row of a house block (except for the last one) is fixed only through a thorn. The top row is fixed in an open way.

Note... Due to fluctuations in humidity, the tree changes its size across the fibers - it swells or dries out. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that during installation a small gap remains between the stop of the groove of the upper row and the spike of the lower one. If the workers miss this nuance, then over time the wall will deform.

Design features

Sheathing the facade of a house from a block house is more difficult than from imitation of a bar or planken. The reason is in the peculiarities of "bulky" lumber. Radius panels are more difficult to fit together.

The most accurate way to increase the length is considered to be "counter" washed down a block of house at an angle of 45 °.

But more often they use a simpler option - a strip in the form of a rail or board. The place for it is chosen in such a way that it looks natural and is common to all connected panels.

Strip strips and corners are the easiest way to cover joints

Corner joints are also designed in a similar way - by joining through a gash at a corner or by an overlay of two rails.

The final stage of cladding is surface sanding and coating with varnish or colorless paint.

Video description

For examples of finishing the facade with a block house, see the video:

Conclusion

As a result, based on the foregoing, it is clear that decorating a house with a block house is more complicated than any other facade panels. To be sure of the quality and durability of the cladding, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

The block house allows you to give a stunning appearance to any home, even if it is built with ordinary building materials. After sheathing the block with a house, it seems that the house is entirely built of logs, it is impossible to distinguish it from a natural frame. Sheathing a house with a block house can be done by hand.

It is worth noting that the original meaning of the word blockhouse has been distorted. In the west, it means frame houses that are collected in a short time. We use the same term primarily for finishing panels... For the production of block house, different types of wood are used, conifers are often used, so it will not be difficult to choose suitable option for any home.

Choosing a block house type

House block can be classified by the type of material used:

  • house wooden block. Made directly from logs. At a woodworking plant, a log is processed according to a square in a circle scheme, that is, semicircular sections are cut along the perimeter of the logs, the remainder is used to make beams and boards, and sections with a semicircular surface are used to make a block house. The wood is impregnated with special protective compounds even at the production stage, and the packaging eliminates deformation;

  • metal block house. In fact, it is a kind of siding - it only imitates the shape and surface of wood, installation is carried out using the same technique as the installation of siding panels;

  • vinyl block house - somewhat dull in comparison with natural wood. The installation is no different from the installation of siding and metal block house.

Tools and materials for house cladding with block house

Sheathing a house with a block house with your own hands is quite simple, for this you will need the following tools and materials:

  • wooden bars (with a section of 40x50 and 30x40 mm), a metal frame can also be used for the lathing, but most often it is a wooden lathing that is preferred;
  • waterproofing film;
  • vapor barrier layer. Foil kraft paper is often used;

  • heat-insulating material, in principle, the device of a heat-insulator layer is not necessary, but most often the cladding with a house block is combined with wall insulation;
  • block house;
  • a means for processing wood, despite the factory impregnation, additional processing of the house block will not be superfluous;
  • stain or varnish;
  • self-tapping screws, nails or clamps;

  • platbands;
  • skirting boards (when cladding with a block house from the inside of the wall);
  • corners for mounting on external and internal corners;
  • a hacksaw for cutting a block of a house (for large volumes of work, it is better to use a circular);
  • drill;
  • construction stapler;
  • screwdriver.

Block house wall cladding technology

For correct wall cladding with a block house, installation work should be performed in the following sequence:

  1. Preparing the wall. At this stage, the walls are cleaned from dirt. When cladding a wooden exterior wall, carefully remove any residual bark from the logs.
  2. A waterproofing layer is attached to the wall surface. For this, you can use a special film.

  1. A crate is placed on top of this film. Typically used wooden lathing although it is allowed to use metal profiles... The elements of the crate must first be protected from rotting and insects by impregnation with special substances. It is recommended to use beams with a minimum section of 40x50 mm, this size is due to the fact that the thickness of heat-insulating materials is usually 50 mm. The pitch of the lathing beams should not exceed 50 - 60 cm. Mineral wool or other heat-insulating material is placed in the resulting cells.

Since there should be a gap between the blockhouse and the heat insulator layer, a second crate is stuffed on top of the crate already attached to the wall, but bars of a smaller section are used - 30x40 mm, later the house block panels will be attached to them. Before attaching the second layer of lathing, the entire surface of the insulation is attached vapor barrier membrane(with a stapler).

It is important not to confuse the location of the vapor barrier layer, the foil-coated kraft paper is placed with the foil outward.

  1. After that, you can proceed with the installation of block house panels, wall cladding can be started both from top to bottom and in the opposite direction. At this stage, keeping the panels horizontally is of great importance, the slightest distortion can spoil the whole positive effect of cladding with a block house. It is especially necessary to carefully control the horizontal position of the first panel.

The cladding of the outer wall is not carried out along the entire height, the house block is not brought to the ground by at least 30 cm. Stone materials are usually used to decorate this area.

Even before starting sheathing, you need to decide on the type of attachment of the house block to the crate, the speed of work and the percentage of rejects will depend on this. The panels are connected to each other according to the thorn-groove scheme, but they must also be attached to the battens of the lathing. This can be done in 3 ways.

With the use of clamps. This will require additional labor, so the installation of the house block will be somewhat slower, but at the same time the risk of damage to individual panels is minimized.

With galvanized nails. Perhaps the most undesirable mounting method that can only be recommended to an experienced person. Nails are driven at an angle or perpendicularly into the groove of the board. When using this method, the danger of damage to the elements of the interlocking connection of the panels is extremely high.

With self-tapping screws. At the same time, a hole is drilled in the board by ½ of its thickness, equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw, then the house block is attached to the crate. Subsequently, this hole is masked using, for example, a mixture of glue and sawdust.

After installing and fixing the first row, its horizontalness is checked using a building level. In the future, the horizontal position can be checked every few rows.

To facilitate the cladding of the house with a block house, it is recommended to position the panels in such a way that the spike goes into the groove from top to bottom. With this arrangement of panels, a light tapping is enough rubber mallet so that the panels are firmly connected to each other.

  1. Completion of the assembly of the block house. The finishing touch can be considered the finishing of the outer and inner corners. In principle, you can try to join the panels of the house block end-to-end, but this will require careful sawing of the ends of the panels, which will lead to unnecessary labor costs.

In addition, the butt joint will not allow the panels to compensate for thermal deformations when heated. To save time, special corners are most often used for finishing corners, which are attached to adhesive mixtures... This does not affect the aesthetic component.

The same approach is used when decorating window and door openings. Slots and other imperfections are hidden behind the platbands.

  1. Despite the factory impregnation of wood with protective compounds, many people prefer to coat the wood with an antiseptic again after the installation is completed. You can also use varnish or wood stain to achieve the desired shade of wood.

With the help of cladding a block house, even the most ordinary brick house easily turns into a natural log house. It will look like the builders have just finished laying the last logs.