Let's decide on the basis of what you made decisions and schemes.

1) The dimensions of your extension are larger than the dimensions of the house. As I understand it, you wanted to make an entrance through the existing vestibule, expanding it too. Solution problems: If you combine the vestibule and the extension with a single foundation, then the place of their connection will be potentially dangerous from the point of view of the appearance of cracks.

2) You are going to build walls from foam blocks and brick them outside. I assume that this decision is only in order to preserve the aesthetic appearance of the building. Solution problems: The wall is made of two-layer materials with different coefficients of thermal expansion. In general, a two-layer wall behaves worse than a single-layer wall. The thickness of the facing wall will be ½ brick, which will require the installation of flexible ties. The brick wall will give additional weight, which will be comparable to the weight of the entire wall of foam blocks.

3) You want to tie the roofs of the extension and the house, combining them into 1 structure. Problems of solution: The precipitation of the extension in the next 3 years will be large (with gradual attenuation). If you arrange a roof in 1 year, especially a slate roof, which is very sensitive to any deflections, then you will redo it several times. I'm not talking about the total cost and labor intensity of the work, most likely, it will be equal to the device of a completely new roof for 2 buildings (in other words, you will demolish the roof over the house and make a new common one).

4) You are considering the construction of pile foundations made of asbestos-cement pipes, I am not a supporter of this technology as such, as usually too thin pipes are used that do not allow high-quality reinforcement, as these pipes have very smooth walls, which greatly reduce the bearing capacity along the side surface. In general, how much really it is to hammer an asbestos-cement pipe into the ground (especially into clay like yours) is a mystery to me. In your case, most likely, the strip foundation device is more justified. Moreover, this is the foundation of the main building, which will allow them to work more or less the same (the same depth and width, most likely).

Now about the good :). An extension on a separate foundation not related to the main house is the right decision. It will be possible to attach houses almost close to each other, but it will be necessary to build a second wall at the abutment. Please note that you will close the windows of one of the rooms .. Close underground waters you have, most likely, as strange as it sounds, are superficial, just a clay layer does not allow them to go into the ground. Water seeps into black soil, stops above the clay and then spreads in this plane. You need to figure out how quickly your trenches fill up with water. If this filling is slow, then big problems I don’t see, they will not interfere during concreting, and then they are not scary. If the filling is fast enough, then the water will have to be diverted. This can be done in several ways. First, dig a canal around and use it to divert water down outside the house (where below, as a rule, can be recognized by the slope of the surface layer). The second is to make a clay castle either directly in the trenches for the foundations (expand it from the outside by 100mm and arrange a clay wall 100mm thick) along the outer contour, or at some distance from the whole house and the extension in a circle, thereby diverting water from the house as a whole. The clay lock should go into the clay of the base by 100mm. It is only necessary to triple in front of the clay castle the drainage layer 150-250 mm high and 200 mm thick (from the lower clay layer) of crushed stone (pebbles) along the entire contour, so that the water flows out without hindrance.

I would not combine the roof into 1 structure, but would make an intermediate connecting section between 2 roofs to drain water from galvanized iron.

Please read everything carefully, and think about what decisions to make, in the light of what I have said.

Decide housing issue having your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

• a full-fledged living space - an additional room;
• living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
• utility room - your own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
• a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your vacation with the whole family;
• garage for cars.

Below will be considered the basics of technology and step-by-step instruction creating an extension to a wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for the construction of an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the premises. Perhaps it is worth immediately planning the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case of an expansion of the family or arrival a large number guests.

Types of outbuildings

There are several types of annexes to a wooden house. They differ in material and installation features:

1. frame extensions;
2. from a cylindrical bar;
3. brick;
4. from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that can affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the characteristics of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. For this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is erected.

DIY frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video

The frame extension has a number of advantages:

• the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
• it is being built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
• the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
• in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this particular option - lightweight construction and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

On preparatory stage it is important to solve the following tasks:

• What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
• What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
• Calculate all dimensions of the structure accurately and develop a detailed drawing.
• Collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof, or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and put a door.

The diagram of the structure adjoining the house is presented below.

Structurally, such a solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is made of rafters and support boards as standard. For more long term service, it is advisable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

• wall;
• roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical tips to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. Moreover, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension turns out to be more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than that of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, saw, pliers, building level and other tools for woodworking.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require conscientious efforts.

Laying the foundation

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided for during the construction of a house, the foundation must not only be correctly laid, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are planning the construction of a newly erected house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. You can make it after a while, and lay the foundation together with the base of the main building - technically correct option... In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

• reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for outbuildings made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
• maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
• the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for the extension, since they are quite capable of cope with such loads. Moreover, the installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of bricks or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

The schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connection of the foundation with the main

This is the most crucial stage. who needs to be given Special attention... Traditionally, two types of connections are used:

• "Tape-tape";
• Plate-plate.

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

1. On the side of the installation of the extension, a trench is dug, corresponding to the depth of the laying of the main foundation.
2. Further, at the base of the house, a hole is drilled half a meter in diameter - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
3. The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house using a wood wedge ..
4. The foundation of the extension is formed along the hammered reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

• the width of the main foundation allows for the corresponding work (from 450 mm);
• the slab protrudes from the base (by at least 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen old foundation and thereby support the sinking house. Illustrative video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Floor installation in the annex

It is important to make the floor in the future room correctly from the point of view of 2 factors:

• thermal insulation;
• evenness of the surface.

It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round living.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is cold enough, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors... It needs additional processing to avoid rotting, however wood flooring much warmer than concrete.

The sequence for installing a wooden floor looks like this:

1. If the extension to the house is being built as a capital structure, then preparatory work for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
2. A roofing material is placed on the foundation.
3. They fit on it load-bearing beams... If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
4. A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

An illustrative example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is associated with the direct construction frame structure... To do this, first of all, you need to install strapping bar... If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

As a result, we get a structure of something like this.

Cutting of the groove in the base can be done complete or incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel corner.

The lower strapping is done in several stages:

1. The socket is mounted in a frame.
2. The overlay is nailed into the base.
3. The support leg is secured with a bracket.

The top rail is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation ( mineral wool, polystyrene, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general structure of the frame is shown in the diagram.

Walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

• Installation on a foundation of a pre-fabricated lower trim. The strapping is screwed on with dowels.

A waterproofing layer is certainly placed between the strapping and the foundations - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

• Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if two structures are supposed to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
• Vertical beams are mounted. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
• Next, the upper harness is mounted.
• The last stage in the installation is making holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on bottom rail... In this case, there is no need to fix each element with temporary mows.

Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof

The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

V general view finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the rigid triangle principle, while before acute angle important to put additional bar(shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection in case of snowfall; therefore, they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

1. The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper frame strapping.
2. The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and annex. The optimal solution to this problem is to use sliding structure providing free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of last stages- construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create enough good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage internal surfaces walls and ceiling.

The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

• finishing work inside the extension:
• outside cladding of the building;
• creating a transition to the house;
• production of windows and doors in a building;
• carrying out all the necessary communications.

Everything wooden structures it is important to treat with special solutions that prevent decay and the harmful effects of temperature changes.

Bar extension

The basic stages of the construction of the extension (pouring the foundation, building walls and installing the roof with subsequent insulation and finishing works) do not depend on the choice of a specific material of construction. However, depending on it, their technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Erection of the foundation

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a strip foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it is established for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cost reduction of work, the most the best option will create pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the bar is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Fastening materials are used as follows:

metal staples and plates;

• brackets;
• steel corners;
• self-tapping screws, screws, nails.

Masonry technology for round timber in the construction of an extension to the house:

Remaining work

The technology of wall construction, insulation and decoration does not fundamentally differ from that described earlier.

In the case of the construction of a structure from a bar, you can easily make two-story structures. Of course, in this case, special requirements are imposed on the foundation and floors.

Brick extension

Brick extensions to a wooden house are erected less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of the second floor of the same or attic. Installation of the floor and roof according to the technology does not have any fundamental differences from those discussed above.

Cinder block extension

And another one cheaper and quick option construction of an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The erection of a structure from cinder blocks occurs very quickly due to the large size building material... This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, veranda.

And finally - a short video review of the main stages of construction frame extension to the wooden house.

Today we have not an ordinary homemade product, but a very complex project: we will tell you how you can make an extension to the house yourself with the help of straight arms!

First of all, construction begins with a floor plan. Having calculated the required area, I marked the ground with a size of 3 m by 5 m and dug a trench for a strip foundation 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide.Then I laid a bundle of reinforcing rods and welded brackets to the rods. Further in the article there will be a description and photos for what I made these staples. The process of manually mixing concrete with a shovel and pouring it does not even want to remember)) I will only say one thing: it would be better if I called a mixer with ready-mixed concrete and filled in))). Having exposed the formwork from the boards, I brought the foundation 20 cm above the ground level and leveled it. Cement M-400 was mixed with sand screening in a ratio of 1 to 3. The result of strength was impressive.
After the concrete hardened, he proceeded to pour the podium out of concrete for installation gas boiler 1m by 1m in size, laying it in two places with a grid and exposing the formwork.

Filling the staples sticking out of the foundation with concrete, I got pillows for laying floor beams (lag) on ​​them. I needed the braces to prevent the pillows from sinking into the ground and, as a result, from the skewed floors. I arranged them in accordance with the recommendations for floor installation. That is, at a certain distance from each other and strictly in terms of level.

At this, the foundation work was completed. Then he proceeded to the construction of the walls. First of all, I made waterproofing of the wall material from the foundation by spreading roofing material over the entire area. After all, concrete conducts moisture very well and if moisture insulation is not made, then mold may appear on the walls, the walls themselves may crack.
My next step was to mark the wall itself. The distances of the sides from the wall to the opposite wall did not differ and the diagonals of the corners were the same. Having outlined the corners, I started laying foam blocks measuring 20x40x60 cm.

The plans were for exterior wall decoration with siding, therefore, with a lighthouse rail and a corner from the siding, I set the block in such a way that after finishing the siding of the extension did not "dance" from the siding of the house. To bond the blocks together, we used a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 3. Special mixtures and glue are also sold. Before placing on the mortar, the blocks were soaked in water. This greatly facilitates the masonry process. Rubber hammer the blocks were seated in place.

Any masonry is erected from the corners, so I was no exception and did exactly the recommendations, adjusted for doorways. To obtain blocks of shorter length, an old hacksaw was used) She did an excellent job with her job. But there are special saws on sale a.


To connect the walls with the main house, I made T-shaped brackets from reinforcement and drilled them into the wall with the expectation of hitting the seam between the blocks.
He erected the walls taking into account the window and doorways using a building level with a length of one and a half meters and a plumb line. Those. the blocks were laid strictly vertically and horizontally. This is especially important for door and window openings. The thickness of the seam can be used to adjust the height of the blocks relative to each other.


When the height of the walls reached the required level, U-shaped channels were made from a metal corner measuring 5 cm by 10 cm for laying blocks above the door and window openings... The length of each was the sum of the opening plus 40 or 60 cm for wall mounting. To do this, I put the corners on the block with the long side facing each other and welded them together using a welding machine and fittings to obtain a gap between them. The gap is needed to screw the screws into the blocks during the installation of doors and windows.



Then he simply put the channels on the blocks and screwed them on with self-tapping screws for full fixation... It would be possible to turn them over in a different way and put blocks on top, but I put a board in them from below for fastening window frames and doors.


Having laid the foam blocks on top of the channels, I sawed a beam of 100x150 cm and laid it out on top. I screwed it to the foam blocks with 200 mm self-tapping screws and fastened the bar together with reinforced corners. It is necessary for ceiling beams and rafter system.



Having screwed a block of 50x75 mm to the wall of the house. I got a support for the ceiling beams. Important!!! For each roof, the thickness of the roof beams and rafters, as well as the distance between them, are calculated individually. Beams 50x75 mm. screwed to the timber with corners.

Since the height of the extension was the same as the level of the house, after installing the beams, I had to remove part of the slate above the house to get the roof slope above the extension. After that, the rafters were assembled. To fasten the rafters, 250 mm nails were used.

I laid a crate of boards 25 mm by 150 mm on the rafters, put heat-vapor insulation on the rafters and proceeded to lay the metal tile.

The metal tile was bought practically from the factory and had the length I needed. It didn’t even have to be cut or adjusted to each other in length. Laying out the sheets on the roof and slipping them under old slate I aligned them with each other and the walls. After fastening, I cut off the excess parts of the crate.

I laid the logs on the pillows, laid the floors from 40 mm thick planks.
Further doors were installed and

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, carrying out a sewage system into the house or the need to close front door from a direct hit of cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick or combined version which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think over all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to attach another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building small house... The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating supplied to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living, this is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately carry out the water supply.

In addition, you should also pay attention to the insulation of all structural elements, think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer vacation... It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, represent a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Foundation device for an extension

The foundation for the extension can be tape, made of bricks or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To dwell on one of them, you need to find out how each structure is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Foundation information

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First, you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done with a rope that is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

• Further, along the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his entire house. It will be nice to fix the reinforcement that unites the foundations of the main structure and annexes before pouring concrete.
• The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench is dug, its further preparation is going on. First, there is filling to the bottom sand pillow 100-120 mm thick. It must be carefully tamped down.
• The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
• Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the surface of the soil by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, moreover, to its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with a coarse concrete mortar from cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after solidification of this layer, the next one is poured - to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

• After pouring this layer, you can start arranging wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. Waterproofing film they are left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can tap the formwork lightly - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled at the required level and left to dry, sprinkling with water daily to harden.
• After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and proceeded to waterproofing the foundation from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials... For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring made of floor beams and a log with a wooden floor along them.

Video - construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Column foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is erected from brick or concrete, as well as in a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is called for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is done in several stages:

• The first step is the marking of the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

• Pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
• If the pillars will be erected from bricks, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to solidify, do the brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
• The top of the stem is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until it solidifies;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproof roofing material, which is glued to the heated bituminous mastic.
• Backfilling is made into the gap between the soil and the pillars, tamping every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with rubble.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

The device of the base of the floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels assumes a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a specific technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundations. It is first loosened, and then removed to a depth of about 250—350 mm.
• At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and tamped. On top of it, you can lay crushed stone, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is arranged on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface, for the unhindered drainage of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
• Next, it is laid out on the prepared surface cement mortar and leveled out using the rule. You can cover it every other day plastic wrap- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, on the received concrete base any can be stacked decorative coating or a wooden floor.

Floor on timber beams

• Floor beams are wooden blocks of a fairly large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• Beams are laid on pillars or a strip foundation, on top of a prepared roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in different ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersection are also fastened with the help of powerful corners.

• They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Erection of the walls of the extension

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the previously mounted crown floor beams. The bars can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then set them up in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, ideally accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all the bars are interconnected with metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) with outside... The cladding will immediately stiffen the structure.

• The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of the construction of an easy extension to the house

Brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontal surface of the foundation and, if necessary, level it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to a brick house as well. To connect the extension with the main wall, holes are drilled in it during the construction of the walls two-thirds of the depth, through every two or three rows of masonry. Fittings are embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not too wide, the reinforcement should be chosen not too thick, or it will be necessary to make a depression in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If a brick extension is arranged for wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is being erected, every two or three rows.

• Before masonry starts, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If it will living room, then masonry should be made, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick masonry will be enough.
• By constructing brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. For him, formwork is made, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete. After the mortar has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed with the overlap device.

It should be noted that erecting brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of walls.

Overlap extension and roof

After the walls have been erected, the ceiling must be made. For him, you will need beams - beams that are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.

The next step is to hem the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid from above, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically the single-slope option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. It is quite simple to arrange this type of roof, the main thing is to choose the correct slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation in winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they can simply damage it.
• Having determined the angle of the slope, on the wall or front of the roof, a mark is made in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. Bottom support for them, the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall will serve. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
• The rafters are also fixed using metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, as to fix crossbeam there will simply not be anything. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the rafter system and consolidate the overall covering.
• It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will fit on top of the rafter system. If it will soft roof or flexible shingles, then on top of the rafters, a solid material is laid and fixed, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to install waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• A roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to unite the roof, then when joining, the upper row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the front of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can start insulating the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the premises are residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the floor insulation.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• On the floor beams, transverse logs are fixed from smaller bars.
• It is recommended to arrange a rough floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

• Further, the entire rough coating is coated with a thick enough clay mortar, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

• From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool, laid between fixed on concrete base log and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the systems "warm floor" (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
• Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation walls use mineral wool produced in mats. It is convenient to lay them between the frame bars. This work is simple and done quickly enough.
• When the walls are closed with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than that of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out outside, but they do it in a different way.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in frame building by fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure gypsum plasterboards... Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this covering.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you are not confident in your capabilities, you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.

Having settled down a little in a new house and tidying up private plot, almost every homeowner starts dreaming of an additional extension. Someone needs to expand dining area, but someone just wants to relax on a spacious veranda. For its construction, you can choose any quality material: bricks, wood, cinder blocks or aerated concrete products. Do-it-yourself veranda to the house made of foam blocks.

Before proceeding with the construction of a new part of the main building, you need to clearly know the size and type of foundation, as well as the condition of the walls, roof and soil. In addition, it will not be superfluous to draw up a project for a future veranda or at least a clear drawing. At this stage, you need to decide whether the integrity of the roof will be violated or not, how the veranda will connect to the house and think over the entrance to it. Only after all these actions can you proceed directly to construction work.

Laying the foundation for the veranda and erecting walls

Before you start arranging the foundation of a future building, you need to know at what depth the main foundation is. For this, a pit is made, measuring 1 * 1 m. Its depth should be sufficient in order to have an idea of ​​the old foundation of the house. The best way the basement for the veranda is the foundation of the same type and size as the main one. If this cannot be done for some reason, then a good expansion joint must be created. The sequence of its bookmark is as follows:

• A small distance of about 5 cm is left between the foundations, where boards, previously wrapped in roofing material, are laid.
• At this stage of laying the blocks, a gap of 2 cm is left between the walls adjacent to each other, which is filled with insulation and sealant. After the completion of all work, the resulting seam is closed with panels. Mineral wool is perfect as an insulating material.

As for the foundation, most often a shallow belt is made for foam concrete buildings, but another option is also suitable for the construction of a veranda - a columnar made of bricks. This type of foundation is not only strong enough but also economical financially and in terms of labor costs.

Features of the construction of a veranda

A special place in the construction of the wall box of the additional extension is the arrangement of jumpers. For the veranda, special ones are more applicable - U-shaped, they are quite light. By using them, critical loads are not applied to the foundation. Thanks to such jumpers, you can make openings more than 1.5 m long, in order to make them you will need reliable U-shaped foam concrete, metal and wooden formwork, commercial heavy concrete mortar and, of course, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm.

First, blocks of a special shape are installed, then the formwork, after which the reinforcement is laid in the previously prepared foam block, the final stage of making the lintel is pouring the resulting structure with concrete, which is carefully rammed and leveled.

As for any building from lightweight concrete, for a foam block veranda, an armored belt is needed, it will give rigidity to the entire structure and protect its walls from cracking and destruction. For its device, you will need the same materials as for creating a specific jumper. The technology of pouring an armored belt is similar to driving the same jumper.

Another significant feature of the extension is its attachment to the main structure; for these purposes, reinforcement is used. To make such a rigid connection, it is necessary to cut out in every third row of the foam concrete wall small grooves measuring 3 * 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm, reinforcement is inserted into them and poured with concrete or special mortar. V load-bearing wall at home, a hole is also drilled, the second end of the reinforcing bar is inserted and concreted. With the help of such a connection, the subsidence of the porch made of aerated concrete will be reduced to almost zero.

Particularly noteworthy is the construction of a foam concrete veranda next to wooden house... This is due to the different density of materials and types of foundations. As a rule, they are lighter under wooden structures, such differences can lead to excessive and uneven shrinkage of both buildings. Such specific construction should only take place under the direction of experienced builders in this area.

Useful video

Output

Choosing high-quality foam concrete products as the main wall material for an extension at an affordable price, you get a guarantee of the durability and reliability of your future veranda.