The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition... After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one even thought about perfectly flat walls. Aligned according to the principle "somehow". You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster on the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (GKL). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process: redevelopment. We are removing old partitions, installing new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell you in the article.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. First, there is not glue everywhere under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fix something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a foundation beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface is imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. The sheet bends slightly between the "pieces" of glue. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since when gluing drywall to the wall, no fasteners are needed, we will talk about the frame and mainly metal. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are the same, they just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a "non-standard" of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be repaired. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling sheets. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions the thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, arrange the joints so that a long longitudinal line is not obtained. They say that the sheets are stacked at random or with a shift. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement was at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (for an example of laying sheets, see the figure).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams are also shifted. The sheet on the top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take self-tapping screws TN25 (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called "for drywall". Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, select those close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth during installation: the cap should be sunk into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the layer of cardboard, which in this structure is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how you can simplify the work and make the self-tapping screw go to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts should be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Having stepped back from the edge 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. Installation step - 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

One more important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially important for timber and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the peculiarities of mounting profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, therefore, we will describe the process in steps from a photo.

Markup

First, mark the installation site of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to walls, floors and ceilings.

If laser level no, you will have to use the usual construction ( good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on it.

Assembling the frame

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are usually fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the bearing profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and / or soundproof material you can put it there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid by increasing bearing capacity... The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The racks are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working independently with drywall, are attached to "fleas" (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw in the lower part - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are attached on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then together with the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, put a special film or some kind of material that will prevent the appearance of a squeak. When people walk, vibrations occur, which are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and squeak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided and unpleasant sounds no.

The pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the sheet of gypsum plasterboard (drywall), which is standardly equal to 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two racks is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will "bunch" - the sheet will stagger and sag. One more point: the first pillar is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is desirable to strengthen the profiles to which the doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a piece of wood of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and fastened with a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack-mount profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to assemble.

Jumpers are usually placed at the height where two sheets will join. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are needed there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large, place it every 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height of the door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying of communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and wiring. It is advisable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated hose. If you put the partition in wooden house or at wooden frame, it must be metallic. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (there is a mark "NG").

Plasterboard cladding and heat / sound insulation

After laying the communications, they proceed to the installation of plasterboard sheets. They are mounted in the same way as for cladding. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, between the profiles (bars) of the frame, an insulation and / or sound insulator is installed. After its installation, the plasterboard wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and drywall partitions is used as usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the listed ones are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, timber, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw with a pencil on front side the line along which you want to cut drywall;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• tap on the shorter side with the palm of your hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. Basically, they relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And on how correctly the frame will be made, it depends on how flat the wall or partition will be.

How to make a plasterboard false wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but that does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are really stiffer. This is necessary if you build a full-fledged interior partition... Amplification will not hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or corrugated. The market has different models profiles, including those with uneven and rough walls and sidewalls. With the same metal thickness, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Plasterboard partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from drywall with your own hands.

Complex forms of drywall are necessary not only on the ceiling, sometimes for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make a round wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how to get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give.

First of all, perhaps, one should summarize information about such a convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material It is also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, even in rooms with high levels of humidity or flammability, using particularly resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied with a thickness of several millimeters and immediately represent the finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a frozen layer of gypsum is enclosed, requires finishing.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall out of it quite quickly, only slightly moistening it. Today, sheets are produced with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker ones), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are needed when needed solid foundation, for example, so that drywall niches are not only decorative.

From this we conclude that practically no other material can be applied, say, for curved walls or for false ceilings in the form of complex shapes (especially in the latter case) Neither plywood nor plastic have the necessary flexibility and durability. Brick is all the more unsuitable for lightweight structures. As for the roundness plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is required to slightly increase the area of ​​one room by removing the protrusion in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, protruding details of the layout are damaged more often than rounded ones.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that rounded partitions can be obtained from it with ease, however, observing a certain degree of care, since the material is quite brittle. But what about the frame on which you need to attach the sheets? Wooden beams disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: a construction compass and a knife, a hacksaw and a grinder saw, a screwdriver, metal scissors, a square, a needle roller, a pencil.

How to make a round drywall wall - a step by step diagram

Step 1: mark the bases

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the frames of the partitions to be connected, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markings should be on the ceiling, but, in the event that drawing on it does not work, we simply fasten the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.

You can also fix on top the part cut off from the workpiece with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.

Step 2: Prepare the guides

It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite being made of metal, can easily take an arched shape. To do this, we measure along the back plane of the guide line segments of 5 centimeters, making notes.

Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.

We cut one of the profile sides from the cuts with scissors.

We bend the board that remains intact into the arc we need, referring to the line drawn on the floor.

We prepare the exact same profile for the ceiling.

Step 3: making the template

At the first stage of work, we measure out the required bending radius of the wall (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we proceed to drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if there is a possibility of such waste.

As a result, a semicircle with the desired radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut out with a hacksaw, resorting to the help of a construction knife, if it is drywall.

Step 4: fixing the frame

Make sure the profiles are straight upright. In order not to overshoot the profiles in the process of sheathing the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Installing the outer arc cover

In order for the drywall sheets to bend without cracks and other blemishes, you need to wet them and leave for 20 minutes to soften a little.

Then we carefully lift the finishing material, which can now tear like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the extreme vertical rack of the frame. We screw it to the first profile, bend it slightly until it touches the second post, screw it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed on all the vertical elements of the frame.

It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, since they are less likely to crack during the bending process.

Step 6: Installing the soundproofing

Insofar as round walls made of plasterboard, we still represent an unfinished structure with only one-sided cladding, we begin to lay soundproofing plates of mineral wool between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should fit tightly between the vertical posts of the frame, partially entering the inside of the profiles.

Step 7: Installing the inner arc cover

Laying drywall sheets with inside a curved structure is performed in exactly the same way as with an external one, with only one difference - now it is possible to form a skin bend on the external covering. We wet the drywall strips, but now we roll a needle roller over them from the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet to the inside of the frame and fix it with screws.

We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the extreme profile for joining with the following sheathing elements.

With the second layer we fasten the whole wetted sheets, also cutting them off in the middle of the vertical rack.

This sheet material is currently the most popular for cladding internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what is wall cladding with this material in more detail.

Room layout

The first action before the start construction works, is the layout of the premises. If it is decided to install drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

Standard sheet sizes of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is designed to fulfill its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and the most efficient cutting of the material, these data should be taken into account when planning the premises. For example, the height of the ceilings is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, then it corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the rooms is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then the cutting of the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are already moving on to deeper detailing - to determining the dimensions of the lathing and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the gypsum board is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. Consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard cover on both sides, it is used for finishing rooms with humidity within normal limits. It is widely used due to ease of use, good workability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and others non-residential premises... Can be used near heating appliances, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant plasterboard, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for decoration country houses where the humidity is usually higher compared to city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

By purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight construction;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easy to process simple tool... In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• jigsaw - cutting out parts complex shape by markup;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements during marking and cutting;
• construction plumb - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing plasterboard parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• painting brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• drill attachment for mixing dry mixtures;
• emery cloth No. 4 or No. 5;
• container for stirring mixtures.

This is the main set of tools with which leveling, priming, and decorative trim drywall walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and surface preparation gypsum plasterboards to the application of the main leveling layer;
• fiberglass tape - serpyanka;
• fasteners for drywall - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under drywall sheets during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL different sizes, including a thickness of 6.5 mm - for the creation of spatial shapes of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for laying floor covering with dry screed.

Assembling a wall from gypsum board

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - a metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces a lot of difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of every part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire protection, especially if it will be laid inside the frame hidden wiring, which is what happens most often. In addition to timber processing, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material based on straightness and the absence of screw deformations;
• changing the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, which results in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a large number time.

All these shortcomings are deprived metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several types of them are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, designated as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of guide profiles is 3 meters, for ceiling and rack-mount profiles - 3 or 4 meters.

U-shaped straight hangers for connecting ceiling and CD profiles are produced as auxiliary parts.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

A frame from a metal profile for a wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The construction of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, using UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the pitch of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are multiples of 600 mm, therefore, the racks are placed, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor protection film, for which it is used polyethylene film thickness of about 200 microns. It is pulled over the frame and secured with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a drywall sheet. Important! For this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the rest of the wall cladding on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which at the same time acts as a soundproofing device. V otherwise the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying the sounds. For this purpose are used various materials, both slab (minelite) and roll, such as isover, a thermal insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a volumetric frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of steam protection, proceeding in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws 6 or 8 mm in diameter. They are installed in increments of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting galvanized frame profiles must be done with a hacksaw on a broomstick manually. The use of a hand grinder burns through the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% composed of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Plasterboard wall alignment

Often, during construction or repair, the layout of the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to accomplish using gypsum board than plaster. Usually this is also done with the use of a frame, when the drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of the racks will not cause problems, since they are all structurally already remote from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for the application of the topcoat.

There is a way how to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before fixing drywall to a wall without profiles, you must carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technologists can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill the mounting holes. In this case, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be the marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and use these marks to drill holes for installing plastic inserts;
• apply to the wall adhesive composition on a cement or plaster base, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to a wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating.

Surface putty

For final preparation the plane of the walls for the finishing coating is applied to its finishing with putty. This is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with a serpyanka;
• applying a primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing compound of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of the walls for the final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can cope with this task on their own. You just need to correctly use the information received here.

At the same time, the invited specialists will carry out this work at a price per square meter from 600 to 800 rubles. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Plasterboard sheets can be:

• sheathe any surface;
• hide those places that spoil the interior for you, especially for toilets and baths;
• make drywall shelves and place various objects on them;
• install partitions, thereby creating a full-fledged room;
• mount niches for TV or other structural elements.

For craftsmen who like to craft with their own hands and create comfort in the home on their own, drywall in combination with a metal profile has become simply an irreplaceable material, as it has amazing qualities:

1. Ecologicaly clean.
2. It makes it possible to change the space without the use of "wet" processes and quickly enough.
3. Long lasting.
4. It is mounted on a frame made of wood or metal.
5. There is a possibility of frameless installation.
6. Suitable for any cladding material.
7. Easy to cut.
8. The design of plasterboard walls makes it possible to use various configurations in the interior.
9. The cost of the material is low.

So, if you have a passionate desire to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, then step-by-step instructions for installing certain structural elements will certainly come in handy.

The device of the box made of plasterboard and metal profile

Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet or get rid of the risers, which, by their appearance, spoil the interior of the room. A drywall construction, which is called a box, will cope well with this task.

This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive appearance of communication systems. No one sees a riser with a hot or cold water, and he continues to perform his direct functions.

Depending on the wishes, potential and location of the highways, the riser can be closed:

1. The whole wall.
2. Only pipes.

In the first case, sewing up the entire plane, we reduce the usable area, although it is possible to mount shelves or niches for storing various items and things. In the second, we close only those sections where the pipes pass. This option the most acceptable, since the installation takes place quickly enough and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.

Thinking about how to visually clean the system Maintenance communications, it must be remembered that if it breaks down, you will have to break, if not the entire structure, then at least part. And this will ruin the decoration of the room and you will have to make repairs again.

The box in the toilet can be made collapsible, this option is not used so often, or you can install small doors (hatches) to access communication elements (valves, meter, fittings).

Remember that most often the problems occur at the joints - the fewer their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before starting work, carry out a thorough inspection of the line. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if any).

You can not be afraid of leaks and you can safely close sealed or welded joints... A threaded connections should be left open.

Materials and tools

If you need to close unattractive places on your own, you need to know how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and choose the right material. Since there is always high humidity in the bathroom, not all materials are suitable for work. They must meet the established requirements:

• to be resistant to moisture;
• have little weight;
• made from environmentally friendly components.

Suppose you have to change the paper wallpaper in the bathroom after a couple of months, which means that tiles are best suited for cladding. And where to fix it if there is no foundation. It is best to use a metal profile rather than wooden blocks... The latter will begin to deteriorate over time, especially if they are in a humid environment. In this option, it is necessary to choose a breed that is resistant to decay and treat the surface with an antiseptic.

But nothing will happen to the metal. It will last a long time. More with technical characteristics profiles can be found in the article "". Select fasteners according to the article "", they are produced according to GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.

For work, you will need the products that are shown in the figure.

Prepare from tools and accessories.

Determining the dimensions of the structure

It is necessary to determine the place in the room where the pipe box will be installed. All measurements are performed using a tape measure. First, we will make a drawing on paper, which will show the future structure with all the elements and technological hatches. You need to know that in the places of their abutment it is necessary to make reinforcements from the profiles. The future structure must be reliable and sturdy.

Box drawing

If you have to close the pipes that are located in the corner of the room, then the box will have two edges, and if the riser is sewn up in the middle of the wall - three.

On the drawing, mark all types of connections, indicate the installation scheme for the profiles. Now you can definitely purchase the necessary elements and correctly calculate the material for work.

The distance between the pipe and the box should not be less than 30 mm.

Markup

Before making a drywall box, you need to find the most protruding places of the riser, which will set the border of the future structure, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling, using a square, draw perpendiculars to the walls. The resulting rectangle should cover all the protrusions of the riser. Next, we lower the plumb line from the point and the touching mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we draw perpendiculars to the walls.

Now we connect the lines along the wall and get a straight line on which we will install the rack-mount profile.

Frame installation

The profiles must be mounted to the wall taking into account the finishing materials so that they do not closely adhere to the pipes.

We drill holes with a drill, where then we hammer in plastic dowels with a hammer. We fasten the rack profile (27x28) with screws to the wall, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and floor. Install the front edge of the box. It is obtained at the intersection of the guide profiles for the ceiling and floor. This is done with a cutter or self-tapping screws.

If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or its height is more than 1500 mm, it is necessary to install transverse jumpers between the uprights. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as stiffeners for the structure. In addition, drywall sheets are then mounted on them.

All attachment points should be located on one straight line with the formation of a solid continuous plane for the edges of the structure, otherwise distortions are likely to occur.

A plasterboard box in the bathroom and toilet is assembled according to the same principle. Its installation is quick, the construction is compact, the distance from the profile to the pipe is not less than 50-60 mm.

Plasterboard installation

Before closing the pipes with drywall, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box is covered by strips, not pieces. Pre-cut off the side edges, their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot protrude beyond the edge of the rack. To do this, you can use a roughing plane.

Now we measure Exact size the remaining edge and cut off a strip of drywall so that it is on the edges of the side strips. We fasten the drywall to the profile with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main posts. Just don't forget about the inspection hatches. They can be bought in the store, manufacturers offer big choice different sizes. And how to cut holes in drywall, you will learn in another section of the same article. This completes the installation of the box.

After you have made a box of drywall with your own hands, you can proceed to putty. And what Decoration Materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tile, paint or plaster - you choose.

Making drywall shelves

Working with plasterboard, it is not always possible to avoid waste: you made a mistake in calculating the volumes or changed the project during the repair. There may be various reasons. Some stores are ready to accept large pieces, but not everyone is so lucky; this is rather an exception to the rule.

If you are a craftsman, do not rush to take the leftovers to the garage, but decorate the interior of your home. Make your environment more comfortable and remove old furniture... Believe me, a drywall shelf will definitely find its use in a living room, bedroom or hallway and can:

• be an element of decor in the room;
• a place for storing things, books, interior accessories;
• a pedestal for collectibles;

A drywall TV shelf is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use the sheet in two layers. However, modern TVs are not so heavy, and beautiful shelf can be ideal place for a plasma panel.

We will tell you how to make drywall shelves with your own hands in this section. The whole process consists of certain stages.

We need tools.

Of the materials you will need:

1. Drywall, preferably 12.5 mm thick. If you plan to install a shelf in a room with high humidity, then you should take a moisture resistant one - GKLV (moisture resistant gypsum board).
2. Metal profiles - guides and rack.
3. Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, wedge anchors, special fasteners.

Drawing

Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions the shelf has to perform, whether it is worth reinforcing it with additional jumpers or not. If there are heavy objects on it, then the frame must be strong enough. Next, imagine how it will look and transfer your wishes to paper. Don't forget about the exact dimensions.

The calculation of the volume of material used depends on this.

You need to start with more simple designs- from the manufacture of straight shelves. And in the future, experiment with more complex configurations and projects.

Markup

Having determined the place where the drywall shelf should be, we begin the marking. In your work, use a tape measure, a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the cladding of the finished product.

Unfortunately, modern apartments cannot boast of flat wall surfaces, horizontal floors and ceilings, and perfect angles. Therefore, the building level should be with you constantly.

We postpone the dimensions strictly according to the drawing. The quality of the future structure depends on how the horizontal and vertical lines are drawn correctly, its appearance and strength.

Shelf assembly

You can already install the profiles according to the marked marking grid. The process itself depends on the configuration of the structure. First, horizontal or vertical parts are mounted. According to the plan, which is shown in the "Drawing" subsection, we begin to work with a vertical rack.

To do this, we drill a hole for the dowels, with their help we will fix the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. There should be three or more of them per piece. We check the position with a level and hammer the part with a 6x40 wedge anchor. We combine with each other with self-tapping screws or a cutter with a guide profile (27x60). On the right side, we fasten a strip of drywall with a step of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent ones, is assembled in the same way.

Next, we mount the frame between the vertical posts, for this, we attach the rack profile along the marked lines, and the guide, which is adjacent to the plasterboard sheet, is fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges, scrolling the plaster of Paris and the back profile through to the profile. In this case, in the frame of the part on which the sheet is fixed (namely, to which these screws are twisted), a profile should be laid in a horizontal position - as well as on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part supporting structure shelves. So the shelves will hold firmly and securely, this will be facilitated by drywall blanks screwed to the frame from the second side.

Ultimately, the process of installing a drywall shelf will end with such a structure that you can see in the photo, or another that you come up with yourself.

Then you can putty the seams, fill up the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws, prime the surface and cover the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled with mirror panels, other materials are used, or simply coated with paint to match colors premises.

It is necessary to screw the profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces using dowel nails or wedge anchors if it is a hard surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fasteners, and if the surface is made of plasterboard, use other hardware, which you can read about in the article "". When you have a wooden base, then for work you need to take wood screws.

You can mount drywall shelves in a room where repairs have already been made. True, in this case, you have to work more carefully, especially with the markup, because corrections are fraught with the fact that the marks will be visible on the cladding. The work is carried out in the same order, only it is better to cut drywall and profiles not in a renovated room. The installation process will be much easier if the work is performed during the repair. In this version, you will be able to comply with all design rules, and the new element will harmoniously and effectively fit into the interior.

How and what to cut drywall

1. Gypsum core

2. Cardboard shell

As you can see in the picture, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself is a fragile material. But thanks to special additives and reinforcement on both sides with cardboard, which is impregnated with a special composition, the sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced by GOST 6266-97, its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article "".

It is easy and interesting to work with this material. Can:

• make yourself a shelf or niche for a TV from plasterboard;
• install a curly partition;
• hide what you don't really want to see;
• put things you are proud of on public display.

To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, you just need to have imagination, manufacturing information and be able to handle drywall. As for the latter, the skill lies in knowing how and how to cut it. Indeed, during the repair process, you need to cut out broken lines, cut the sheet in a straight line or make holes.

To cut drywall, you need:

• pencil,
• roulette,
• corner ruler,
• preferably a bus
• if there is a large amount of work - a roughing plane.

With this material for work, it is better to use not a marker or a pen, but a pencil, its traces are not visible after putty, which cannot be said about the listed items. A plane is needed to align the curved edges of the gypsum board. The surface for working with plasterboard should be flat - most often it is a stack of sheets, a floor, and ideally a large table.

Now about the tools. The blades must be sharp, they must be kept perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case your cut will turn out to be even and smooth.

In a straight line

For this purpose, a special drywall knife or an ordinary construction knife (clerical) is useful. The great thing about these tools is that they have adjustable blade lengths. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.

Before cutting the sheet, we carefully measure with a tape measure or ruler. With a pencil, we put marks on the sheet and connect them with a common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, we draw with a knife along the marked line. The depth of the cut should be such that the blade of the knife does not reach the second layer of cardboard.

It is enough to cut through only the cardboard, and the gypsum will break without effort along the cut line.

Now we move the sheet to the edge of the table and lightly tap the cut line with our fist. We bend it carefully, it breaks along the notch line, and the halves of the sheet are held by a whole layer of cardboard. WITH back side cut the sheet with a knife, and clean the cut with a roughing plane.

Curvilinear shapes

The most practical tool for this work is a jigsaw. True, you can use a hacksaw or a knife, but the cuts will be rough, you will have to spend a lot of time to put them in order. The jigsaw will cope with any curvilinear shapes.

First, we lay the sheet in such a way that the cut out place is located on the weight or between two objects at a slight distance from each other.

When working, the tool blade should not be in the way.

We draw the outline of the figure with a pencil and, after putting on personal protective equipment, since there will be a lot of dust in the process, we start cutting the sheet. Cut lines are of high quality, even and smooth.

Round shapes

Often it is necessary to cut a circle in drywall. Of course, they can be cut with a jigsaw or a construction knife. But the end result is unlikely to please, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent on the work. It is more convenient to make holes for sockets or light bulbs using a crown, which is attached to the holder of an electric drill. These kits are sold in any hardware store and have different diameters.

Previously, we make the necessary markup on the sheet - the location of the future hole - and outline the center. We choose the size of the crown, fix it in the drill chuck. Place the drill in the center of the hole and start drilling.

To get quality work, you should cut at medium speed, take your time, gently pushing on the drill. With strong pressure, the tip will get stuck in the cast.

Rectangular shapes

Often, when working with drywall, you have to cut out rectangular holes(for sockets, technical hatches). This is especially often necessary in the manufacture of boxes, which are used to close the risers and pipes. A hacksaw is useful for this.

Please note that to work with drywall sheets, you need to take a sheet for metal. His teeth are smaller, so the work will be done faster and better.

We put the sheet on a support, make the necessary measurements and along the marked line, where it is required to cut off the drywall, we make cuts with a hacksaw. We start from any angle and then cut out the desired shape.

No matter how hard we try, it is not always possible to make the edges of drywall smooth. This defect affects not only the aesthetic appearance, but also the quality of the work performed. Parts do not fit tightly to each other, violating the integrity of the structure.

A roughing plane is useful for working with drywall. This professional tool worth buying for everyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and needed for high-quality processing of cut edges. It is performed according to GOST 21445-84.

It's easy enough for them to work. It is necessary to put the sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - end up, you can put it on its side. Place the plane on a sheet cut and draw it along its entire length. It is not worth pressing on the handle too much, since with strong pressure the tool will go deep into the drywall and you will have to remove a large cut or you will end up with an uneven end.

Movements should be as light as possible, in two to three passes. The surface of the planer must be cleaned of plaster often - turn the instrument over and lightly tap the body with the palm of your hand.

We make a niche in the wall of drywall

Well-designed and well-installed niches in a plasterboard wall can replace furniture sets. They are performed:

• in horizontal or vertical design;
• v floor version where it is possible to place decorative fireplace, a vase of flowers, decor details more than 1 m high;
• on the whole wall or just a small area;
• with and without illumination;
• closed or open.

This structural element may be different, its configuration depends on your invention and wishes, and the design can be complemented by plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.

In addition, a drywall niche is not only an element of decor, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, utilities or remove objects from prying eyes that others do not need to know about. Sometimes the owners use this privilege so skillfully that they can safely go on vacation without worrying about their jewelry. Or skillfully disguise technical systems life support at home.

Instruments

In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools to work.

Drawing

It is clear that not everyone graduated from a civil engineering university or has experience working with drawings. But any drywall structures that you plan to do with your own hands imply that they will be performed strictly in size. This means that a drawing on a scale is definitely needed. No need to master computer programs or call a draftsman from an architectural bureau. It is enough to sketch a diagram by hand, indicate all dimensions and design features... It is impossible to make a niche without a diagram. Let it represent a simple drawing, but the size of the wall, the location of the radiators, furniture, electrical outlets, if it is necessary according to the conceived project. With a correctly drawn up drawing, all cases of alteration of the structure are excluded.

A sketch of thoughts on paper or "blueprint"

Without effective lighting, the niche will give the impression of a dark hole. This means you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or install a backlight that will visually expand the niche space.

Consider location points lighting fixtures... All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when calculating the volume of materials. Clarify the size and depth of the niche. Be sure to consider the location of the furniture so that it does not block the opening.

When drawing up a drawing, be sure to take into account the thickness of the profile. After all, its dimensions are an integral part of the dimensions of the future structure in height and width.

Are you planning to install in a niche household appliances- pay attention to the dimensions of the structure. Design the space of such a niche a little more sizes devices - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.

Markup

It is performed strictly in size and using building level... With a pencil on the wall, mark the middle and from it we draw the entire drawing symmetrically with the length and width of the structure.

If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly follow that there is an equal distance around the edges. If symmetry is broken, the niche will not fit into the interior of the room.

Having outlined the contours of the structure under construction on the wall, you already know along which lines you need to mount the profile guides.

Provide as detailed markup as possible. On the wall, indicate all the marks for fixing the frame made of the metal profile.

At this stage, consider routing electrical cables and installing outlets. Planning backlit shelves - consider additional equipment.

Frame installation

Having cut the profiles to size, we begin to assemble the frame.

We check each installed profile with a level, because the slightest discrepancy will ruin the entire structure.

We fasten the guide profile with dowels along the perimeter of the drawing transferred to the wall, along the depth of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The step is 400-600 mm.

self-tapping screws or a cutter. In the places of future shelves, we install jumpers from the rack-mount profile. Our do-it-yourself drywall niche should come out with wide shelves, on which the additional and main equipment that we plan to place there can easily fit. The frame is strong enough and the profile is reliable.

Plasterboard installation

Now you need to fix the sheets to the profile. We do this using self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) with a pitch of 250 mm. We recessed the head of the fastening element in the sheet by 1 mm. Less is impossible, because it will interfere with the putty, and more is also not recommended - the sheet may crack. Edge drywall sheet must be flush with the profile, the excess is removed.

The result is a backlit plasterboard niche. The costs of beauty and comfort always pay off, because they are a long-term investment of funds. Therefore, we do not spare money. After sheathing the frame with plasterboard, putty and primer, the surface is ready for further finishing work.

Economical and easy to install, LED strip is widely used for lighting ceiling decoration. And in most cases, such a decor provides for a plasterboard niche for LED lighting - a special ledge on which the lighting elements will be placed.

In our article we will describe the manufacturing technology of such parts. false ceiling, and also in just a few words we will tell you about the features of connecting LED lighting.

Materials and tools

A plasterboard niche for LED lighting is a specially shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the multi-level ceiling elements.

Examples of such design solutions you can see in the photo in this article.

It is also possible to manufacture - recesses in the wall with decorative lamps... True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used; spotlights are more often used.

To erect such a structure, we need:

• Drywall (normal or moisture resistant).
• Profile (start and main).
• Direct ceiling suspensions.
• Fasteners (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for profiles and plasterboard).

Among the tools with which a structure for a drywall backlight will be created, we will need:

• Hammer drill or hammer drill with a victorious drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver attachment for working with gypsum plasterboard.
• Metal scissors.
• Pliers.
• Assembly knife.
• Screwdrivers.
• Set of tools for filler and finishing GKL.

All these tools should be at our fingertips - only then can we get to work.

Installation of eaves for LED strip

Assembling the frame

A cornice made of gypsum boards for installing LED strips is mounted on a special frame. For the manufacture of the frame, we use galvanized metal profiles used for the assembly of suspended plasterboard ceiling battens.

Note! The structure can be mounted both on a solid ceiling ceiling and on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

We assemble the crate according to the following scheme:

• Using a level, draw a horizontal baseline on the walls. The distance of the line from the ceiling should be 7-10 cm.
• Along the perimeter of the room along the baseline, we fasten the starting profile for the gypsum board.
• Having stepped back from the wall 150-200 mm, we attach the same starting profile to the ceiling, forming an inner perimeter.
• We attach pieces of the main profile to the starting profile on the ceiling every 40-50 cm. The length of the segments must be equal to the distance from ceiling base to baseline.
• We connect the wall starter profile to the hangers from the main profile with 300 mm length panels. The overhangs are 150 mm and will be the main one for the bearing cornice.
• Large-sized frames can be additionally reinforced with panels of the main profile, fixing them on the lower side.

Note! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring for connecting electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to the vertical posts using clamps.

Profile sheathing

When the frame is assembled, you can start sheathing it with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

You are most likely already familiar with the sheathing technology of the battens from the numerous videos on our website, so only general instructions are given here:

• Cut off a narrow strip from a sheet of gypsum plasterboard and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
• If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
• We sew a strip of plasterboard on the lower part, forming the base of our structure.

Exists different types plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.

At an open ledge, you can immediately install electrical appliances, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:

• Closed plasterboard niches with backlighting are equipped with a special side that directs the light to the ceiling (see also article about).
• To form it on the edge of the plasterboard ledge, we attach the starting profile and already to it we fix a strip of gypsum plasterboard up to 50 mm high.
• We glue a special plastic or metal cover on the outer corner, which should protect plasterboard sheathing from damage.

After the frame is formed and sheathed with gypsum board, it can be putty and finished (paint, plaster, wallpaper). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - do-it-yourself installation of the LED strip.

Backlight connection

Before installing the LEDs in a drywall niche, the tape must be prepared:

• Cut off a fragment of the required length from the coil of the tape. It is necessary to cut the tape only in places with special markings.
• If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also just solder the contacts using a soldering iron.

Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.

• We connect the LED lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% more than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
  Of course, the price of such a power supply unit will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.

• To connect color backlighting, we use a special RGB controller.
• We check the performance of the assembled system. If everything burns the way we want it, you can stick the tape on the cornice.
  
• We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the crate.

Summarizing

A properly equipped plasterboard niche for lighting can radically transform the appearance of a room. So if you are interested in lighting decor - we hope this article will be useful to you!

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