One of the most important work when constructing a frame building, the laying of insulation is considered. Only with the correct and high-quality thermal insulation can heat escape through the enclosing structures be prevented, as well as reduce heating costs. In our article we will try to answer in detail the question of which insulation is better for frame house: walls, floor and roof.

The choice of insulation

It should be noted that the final choice of thermal insulation material will depend on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner of a country house or apartment.

Expanded polystyrene

One of the most popular heat insulators in the domestic market is foam. Such products have a lot of advantages, for example:

• Low cost;
• Ease of laying slabs on leveled surfaces;
• Low weight.

The disadvantages of foam include:

• Low strength;
• Possibility of ignition under the influence of open fire;
• Insufficient sound insulation performance.

Mineral wool is considered the most common thermal insulation for insulating frame country houses. Such products are supplied to hardware stores in the form of solid rectangular pressed plates. The material is cut well with a sharp knife or hand saw, which allows you to quickly create pieces of the desired size.

The main advantages of this material are:

• High performance of heat and noise insulation;
• Strength;
• Durability.

Minvata is the best option for insulating a frame structure

Also, a big plus of the material is the ability to "breathe at home". The disadvantage of the material is the loss of properties after moisture ingress, therefore, the plates are protected from water by waterproofing.

Note! For the manufacture of mineral wool, natural stone is used, for example, basalt. After melting the rock, fibers are obtained, which churn into slabs or mats. Such products are not afraid of exposure to high temperatures and fire.

Glass wool

The oldest type of insulation is glass wool. The material in question is produced from waste of the glass industry and broken glass, dolomite, limestone or sand.

Products end up in hardware stores in the form of rolls or slabs. The advantages of glass wool can be considered:

• Refractoriness;
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• Resistant to chemicals;
• Relative cheapness.

The lack of a heat insulator is the loss of properties under the influence of moisture, therefore, the plates must be protected from water ingress plastic wrap... You also need to use special means(rubber gloves, respirator, goggles) when working with such products.

Ecowool

The first place among heaters in terms of environmental safety should be given to ecowool. According to experts, cellulose is considered the main raw material for such a product. Such insulation is not afraid of moisture, but requires special equipment for embedding into the wall cavity.

With a dry method of laying, the substance is tamped between the joints of the frame house. Other disadvantages of the material can be considered the high cost, the need for insulation work by highly qualified specialists.

Polyurethane foam or penoizol

One of better ways wall insulation of a frame house is considered to be the use of penoizol or polyurethane foam. To obtain a working solution, two components are used, which, when mixed in a special device, fill all the cells on the surface of the frame house.

Penoizol has good thermal insulation characteristics, but a similar composition is applied with the participation of specialists. The price of polyurethane foam is quite high, so not everyone will be able to afford this method of insulating a house.

One of the simplest and most affordable methods of insulation is the use of sawdust. To prepare a working solution, wood particles are mixed with cement or other binding agent, as well as antiseptics that prevent decay processes.

A mixture of sawdust and cement is used for floor or ceiling insulation. This method has certain disadvantages. This is the laboriousness of the work, low efficiency, the possibility of material sagging when laying inside the walls.

Park or Rockwool

Many developers are trying to determine which thermal insulation - Park or Rockwool, has the best technical characteristics. If many user reviews on the Internet point to Park, then in our article we will provide a comparison of these two products.

Characteristic	Park	Rockwool
Coefficient of thermal conductivity	0.036 w / mk	0.036 w / mk
Water vapor permeability index	0.55 mg / ppm	0.3 mg / ppm
Maximum density	35 kg / m³:	35 kg / m³:
Fire resistance	Incombustible	Incombustible
Overall dimensions of products	1.2 * 0.6 m	1 * 0.6m
Total area of ​​slabs in one package	10.08m2	6m2
The cost of packaging with a product thickness of 5 centimeters	800 rubles	550 rubles
Price m3 of thermal insulation	1600 rbl	1800 rbl

Note! Despite similar technical characteristics, Parkok mineral wool has no tendency to shrink, which cannot be said about Rockwool thermal insulation. In addition, such material has a lower cost.

Insulation technology

The structure of a frame house needs high-quality insulation... Next, we will describe how work is carried out to insulate the walls, floor and roof of the building.

Sten

Note! According to experts, the walls of a frame house should be insulated with mineral wool. A 5 centimeter layer of this material in terms of thermal conductivity is equal to 60 centimeters of brickwork.

As we have already said, such products are afraid of moisture, therefore, the plates must be protected from condensation and water-saturated air using vapor barrier films and special membranes. The insulation in question is attached between the vertical guides of the crate, which are installed every 59 centimeters, with a slab width of 60 cm.

Thermal insulation materials are laid in several layers, depending on the thickness of the frame guides, and the joints of each row of plates should be located on different heights... It also takes into account another layer of mineral wool located on the outside of the building.

To lay the thermal insulation, they nailed to the frame wooden blocks 5 centimeters thick in a horizontal position. The distance between the guides for high-quality joining of the plates should be 59 centimeters.

Laying insulation on walls

At the next stage of work, the mats are laid from the outside, after which the insulation is protected from external negative influences with a windproof film. The membrane is attached to the wooden blocks using staple staples, the joints of the film are sealed with tape. In the future, wooden blocks with a cross section of 5 * 5 centimeters will be stuffed on the surface of the walls with a windproof film to form a ventilation gap. At the final stage of work, finishing material will be attached to these guides.

Now let's move on to internal insulation frame house. Here the guide bars are positioned vertically. For insulation, you can use mats of various thicknesses, for example, 5 and 10 centimeters with a frame support thickness of 15 centimeters. As we have already said, the joints of the mineral wool slabs must be on different levels, therefore, the material is trimmed and the formed seams are covered with the next row of thermal insulation. Total: the thickness of all layers of insulation is at least 20 cm.

Diagram of the pie of cross-warming of a frame house

After filling the space between the frame posts, a high-quality vapor barrier is nailed to the wooden bars. In this case, the rough side of the film should be oriented towards interior premises. Next, the same wooden blocks with a cross section of 5 * 5 centimeters are nailed to the racks to form an internal ventilation gap. Further, the finishing material will be fixed to these guides.

Note! The rough surface of the vapor barrier film protects the insulation from moisture. Water droplets will accumulate on the bumps in the material.

Warming is carried out in a similar way interior partitions... In this case, mineral wool is used as sound insulation. Here, instead of a vapor barrier, glassine is used.

Nuances of wall insulation:

• Mineral wool slabs must be carefully crammed into the arranged frame, avoiding bends and deformation;
• Insulation cannot be compacted, use a layer larger than the thickness of the frame racks;
• After laying the thermal insulation, the places of poor-quality laying of the material are determined, the cracks are closed.

Paul

When insulating the floor in a frame building along the logs, the structure is conventionally divided into two types: finishing and rough. At the initial stage of work, rough boards are mounted on wooden beams, which are pre-treated with antiseptics. Such materials need to be fitted as closely as possible to each other, which will prevent the penetration of cold air.

To prevent the penetration of rodents, a metal mesh with a fine mesh is fixed on top of the boards, then windproof film, which is attached to the logs with a stapler or small nails. The mineral wool slabs can now be installed. The joints between the specified materials are fastened with polyurethane foam.

Note! When laying mineral wool between the clean floor and the insulation plates, a gap of 3-5 centimeters is left, which will facilitate the removal of moisture from the thermal insulation.

Roofs

The main material for insulating the roof of a frame house is mineral wool. Similar work is carried out in cases of the presence of a residential attic floor... At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to inspect the rafter structure, treat the tree with an antiseptic.

Now proceed to the installation of the crate with inside rafters, nailing boards every 20-30 centimeters. Mineral wool slabs are laid on the outside in several layers.

Note! When installing thermal insulation, make sure that the products are sealed at the joints. Leaving gaps in the insulation is not recommended.

At the next stage of work on outside rafters are fixed waterproofing film so that the material can pass water vapor in only one direction - up. The panels are joined with an overlap of 15 centimeters, after which the products are additionally fastened with tape.

For effective insulation, an air gap of 2-5 centimeters is left between the membrane and mineral wool. For its formation, wooden blocks of the required thickness are used.

The film is nailed with staples or thin wooden slats with small nails. Several ventilation holes are made at the location of the ridge. Now the vapor barrier is fixed and the roofing material is laid. The inner cladding is made from a block house, wooden lining or plywood sheets.

Insulation is a necessary component of any residential building. The large temperature difference is the main reason why you need to choose this material very carefully. The comfort of living in the house will depend on the right decision, especially in the coldest and hottest seasons. Do optimal choice information on the characteristics of popular methods of thermal finishing at home will help.

Insulation for the walls of a frame house - what functions does it perform

Almost half of the heat supplied by the heating system is lost due to poor quality wall cladding. To keep it warmer in winter, we just turn on the boiler harder, and the temperature becomes comfortable again. A caring and practical owner will definitely think about good thermal insulation.

The advantages that it gives:

• saving gas fuel leaving for heating water in the heating system;
• effective sound insulation;
• no need for air conditioning in the summer;
• constant comfortable temperature;
• increase in the service life of the frame and "filling" of the walls, roof and floor.

It is hard to believe, but all this is provided by the insulation for the frame house. The heat will not go outside the premises, which means the heating boiler will operate at minimum power. You will save on fuel. Walls with dense filling will block noise coming from the side of the road and street, even if the house is located near the highway, it will be quiet and peaceful in it. In summer, the heat will not pass in the house - you can do without an air conditioner. With an optimal microclimate inside the wall, the filler and load-bearing components will be protected from premature destruction.

The best insulation for a frame house - types, properties, characteristics

Before going to a building materials store, analyze such components as:

• what state is it in;
• characteristics of the area, climatic conditions;
• your experience in construction work - if you decide to insulate your home yourself;
• the budget that can be allocated for the purchase of the necessary materials.

The specificity of the structure of a frame house is that it is completely made of wood. On the one hand, such a cottage is quickly built and environmentally friendly. On the other hand, a wooden base is not able to retain heat. The entire load falls on the insulation. The better to insulate frame house and what you should pay attention to when choosing a material:

• Heat preserving properties. The material must have low thermal conductivity. The lower its coefficient, the smaller the width of the insulation sheet will be. For a frame structure, a value in the range of 10 to 15 cm is optimal. This is suitable for the middle strip. The farther north, the greater the thickness should be, and vice versa.
• The weight. A frame house is not able to withstand heavy weight loads, so you should not choose heavy materials for sheathing and insulation. Lightweight items are easier to mount.
• Water vapor permeability. Term wooden structure will significantly last if you choose a heater that allows air to pass through. Frame walls are usually sheathed sheet materials who breathe well. A well-chosen filler will provide good infiltration and a normal indoor microclimate. If you leave the house excess moisture, then its level will always be normal. You do not need to ventilate the rooms additionally.
• Environmental friendliness. Living in a home will be safe if you use environmentally friendly materials for its construction. The health of the residents will depend on what kind of insulation is inside the wall.
• Hygroscopicity. Regardless of the way a building is externally finished, its "filling" will be exposed to moisture in the atmosphere. The direct culprits are rain and snow. Choose waterproof materials or those that will not change their characteristics due to water ingress. Relevant for areas where atmospheric humidity is high.
• Strength. Insulation for the frame structure must retain its original shape and dimensions. If the shrinkage is minimal, then the cold will not get inside the room. During installation, the dimensions of the insulation boards are calculated so that they adjoin each other as tightly as possible.
• Price. This figure depends on your budget. How to insulate a frame house if the amount of funds is limited? The main rule is not to take the cheapest one. This will lead to loss of money in the future.

Look at the characteristics of the most popular heaters and choose what works best for your case.

Basalt mat or mineral wool

Basalt is composed of minerals of volcanic origin. First, they are melted, then ultra-thin threads are obtained, which are glued together with phenol-formaldehyde resin. From the resulting mass, slabs or mats are formed.

What is interesting about basalt:

• has a very low thermal conductivity. This indicator is provided by the air between the fibers;
• thanks to the resin it contains, it does not absorb water;
• open structure does not impede normal air infiltration;
• the mineral from which the cotton wool is made burns only when the temperature reaches 1000 degrees;
• absorbs airborne and shock noise;
• has antiseptic and chemically resistant properties, does not undergo biocorrosion, mold or fungus will never start here;
• very strong in compression, retains its geometry throughout the entire period of use, does not fall off and does not shrink inside the wall;
• environmentally friendly.

The disadvantage of mineral wool is its high cost. Among the options for insulating the frame of the house, it is considered one of the best materials.

Polyfoam - inexpensive and convenient

It is obtained by foaming polystyrene with steam and under high temperature... Polyfoam consists of thin-walled polymer granules, which are filled with atmospheric gas inside. In construction, it is used in the form of slabs of various configurations and sizes. Advantages:

• Since this insulation is 98% air, its thermal conductivity coefficient is lower than that of basalt wool. For, located in the middle lane, several layers with a total thickness of 10 cm are quite enough. Choose foam with a density of 34 kg / m3.
• The closed structure of the cells inside the foam does not allow moisture to pass through. The total water rate will never exceed 4%. During construction work, the material does not need to be covered with films from the outside - it will not warp or become damp if it rains.
• The material does not deform inside the wall, despite the fact that it is fragile enough to break.
• Blocks out noise.
• Resistant to mold.
• Inexpensive. If you are looking for a budget option with good characteristics, it is best to insulate with foam.

The heat-insulating foam layer can withstand freezing and thawing in unlimited quantities. This does not affect its state in any way, because water, which usually destroys the structure during crystallization, is almost absent here.

Polyfoam does not conduct air. Its vapor permeability coefficient is comparable to monolithic concrete... In order for the walls of the frame to breathe and release moisture from the wooden beams, they do not need to be tightly covered with slabs. In a house with foam insulation, it is necessary to arrange a good ventilation system.

Disadvantage - destructibility under the influence sun rays, high level flammability. This can be dealt with if the slabs are processed protective compounds.

Polyurethane - a new word in the field of wall insulation

Construction technologies do not stand still. Appeared new way insulation - using polyurethane foam. It is obtained in the process chemical reaction components that are connected to each other using a special installation, right before application. PUF is applied by experienced specialists; during operation, a special spraying unit equipped with a compressor is used.

Positive traits:

• Today PPU is the leader in low thermal conductivity. It can be adjusted during application.
• Compared to foam, the material is able to absorb only 2% of its volume of moisture. To enhance the water-repellent properties, castor oil is added to the composition.
• Does not burn thanks to special additives.
• Does not let in noise.
• Has a high level of strength at a density above 35 kg / m3. On top of the PUF it is enough to simply process it with plaster, because shrinkage factor is zero. When applied, the foam first increases, fills the space and hardens. Ideally retains geometry for the entire period of operation.
• Ecologicaly clean.

The disadvantages of the latest material include low vapor permeability. Inflicted on frame walls foam completely blocks air circulation with the outside. The frame should not be foamed tightly - the moisture inside the tree should evaporate. If the foam is completely covered, then the water will be trapped inside the material. This will lead to premature destruction of the building. Before working with polyurethane foam, all wood components must be well dried.

Which insulation option is right for you? Weigh the pros and cons, visit hardware stores, see what the materials look like, compare prices. Take your time, study the characteristics again, this will help you make the right decision.

To achieve a comfortable stay in the house during winter period it is necessary to think about insulation even at the construction stage. This will prevent the penetration of cold air into the room and ensure compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions. Warming of a frame house can be done by hand. Step-by-step instruction for each type of structure is given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate the house

With the help of thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

• condensation from inside the premises;
• the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew;
• increased heating costs;
• non-compliance temperature regime living quarters and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, a competent technology for insulating a frame house can extend the service life of the main structures of a building.

Thermal protection materials

House insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this insulation. The first is based on the raw materials used to manufacture:

• basalt;
• glass;
• slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation:

• rigid slabs;
• roll material.

It should be noted that glass wool is only available in rolls.

For floors, rigid slabs are suitable that can withstand fairly high loads. The walls of a frame house can be insulated using both slabs and rolls. For mansard roof it is best to use panel material. This will allow you to easily insulate with mineral wool between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, it is necessary to decide which structures require this additional event.

You can protect the following building elements from the cold with your own hands:

1. ground floor floor;
2. attic floor (if the attic is cold);
3. mansard roof;
4. exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be carried out both outside and inside. It is best to mount the insulation between the racks, as this will ensure the correct operation of the material. Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow you to carry out events in any weather conditions.

Two-layer insulation - 100% thermal protection guarantee

An outside insulation scheme is possible if the inside insulation is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

• the outer insulation material should not create a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the resulting condensation from water vapor will accumulate between two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
• thickening the wall of the house

Based on the foregoing, it follows that the thermal protection of a wooden house outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Two-layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate the walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need a two-layer insulation. Stick to the following layer order:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. insulation with mineral wool (2 layers with offset racks);
4. windproof membrane;
5. OSB-3 on the crate;
6. external finishing of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. So that the insulation retains its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is achieved by circulating cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology of insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on either side, but between the frame racks. This allows the overall wall thickness to be reduced and the construction time of the building significantly reduced. The mineral wool is fixed between the frame racks, after which sheathing is performed on both sides.

When doing work with your own hands, vapor barrier and wind protection are located in the same way as in the previous cases: protection from steam is from the inside, and wind protection is from the outside.

With thermal protection of the walls from the inside under curtain facade the order of the layers is as follows:

1. interior decoration of the premises;
2. vapor barrier;
3. mineral wool;
4. superdiffusion membrane;
5. wall construction;
6. facade finishing.

Insulation of floors

For a timber frame house, overlapping beams are characteristic. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation plates are stacked between the supporting structures of the floor. You can also use roll materials, but for their spreading, preliminary installation of the lower sheathing or solid flooring will be required.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of hard slabs, it is better to take the pitch of the wooden floor beams so that 580 mm remains clean between them. This will ensure maximum convenience of working with 600 mm wide slabs and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When performing activities with your own hands, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is from the cold air side. In the case of interfloor ceilings, protection from steam should be provided from the side of the ceiling.

Insulation of the attic floor

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on the skin and lungs. It is best to use gloves and a mask for this. Also, workers should have special clothing that completely covers their arms and legs.

Pitched roof insulation

DIY installation technology is similar to overlapping. The step of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected in compliance with the clear distance of 580 mm.

The work is carried out in the following order:

1. installation of the rafter system;
2. laying a waterproofing layer on top of the rafters;
3. thermal insulation;
4. installation of vapor barrier;
5. upper and lower lathing;
6. laying of roofing material;
7. interior decoration of the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating the frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, perform simple activities:

1. treatment of all structures of a wooden house with antiseptic compounds to prevent damage to them by various microorganisms;
2. cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
3. elimination of significant irregularities.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will make it possible to provide the insulation with a reliable abutment to the structures and as long as possible long term service.

In the previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with my own hands. Now, we will consider instructions on how to properly insulate and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation, it remains reliable protection from frost in the cold season for a long time, and also saved it from the exhausting heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is better for a frame house, this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it should be noted that about 80% of the total frame houses, are insulated with mineral wool or insulation based on it. Given this, this step-by-step instruction will mainly be based on just such insulation.

• In addition to mineral wool, there are several other types of insulation that are more or less suitable for use as thermal insulation for frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
• Insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in the same way as with mineral wool-based insulation, therefore we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
• Mineral wool, in comparison with other types of insulation, the most universal material... She insulates not only frame houses, but also any others. As a heater, it is used almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, you must use personal protective equipment such as gloves, goggles and a respirator. Skin contact can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation of a frame house

The technology of floor insulation largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most of the frame houses are currently being built on a pile-screw foundation, we will build on this when insulating the floor.

1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor logs that will hold both the waterproofing material and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
2. If the house is located high, relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first it is stretched under the floor logs waterproofing membrane and fastened furniture stapler... The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that it does not come through from under the floor. Which side is inward and which side is stuffed out - check with the manufacturer.
3. Also from below, on top of the waterproofing board, breaks through. The size of the board and the installation step does not really matter, but no more than 40-50 cm, if only this was enough so that the sheets or strips of mineral wool would not fall through. Sometimes the board is packed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. Here's what you should end up with:
   
4. If you cannot crawl under the house, then a board is first stuffed under the logs, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the logs from the inside of the frame house, as shown in the photo.
   
5. When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is placed between the logs of the floor of the frame house. It must be laid tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction one, but always a little more than the required length, by about 1 cm.
   
6. For ease of installation, the distance between the lags is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60cm. This means that the distance between the lags, ideally, should be 58-59 cm.
   
7. The thickness of the insulation layer completely depends on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the log floor of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than the width of the board or timber from which they are made.
   
8. An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer should overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20cm.
   
9. Over the mineral wool, inside the frame house on logs, it is necessary to fix vapor barrier membrane... It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be glued with double-sided tape, for example.
   
10. Plywood, OSB-board are laid on the vapor barrier membrane, or a board is sewn together, which will be the basis for further finishing.
    

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not windproof, therefore, the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be pulled so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from entering between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Thermal insulation of walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located completely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside, this does not change the materials used and their number. We will consider insulation from the inside, from the outside everything is done in the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the outer walls of the house

It should be noted right away that when sheathing a frame house outside and inside with your own hands, they are used various materials, they may be different from those that I describe in this manual. The order of actions may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same thing, as in the diagram. This is an approximate scheme, for example, instead of OSB boards, on one side, you can pierce the crate with strips or a board 25mm thick. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40 cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the stiffness of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

1. Outside, the frame is sheathed with OSB plates, with the gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, as a rule, it is 2-3mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is how it looks from the inside of the house:
   
2. Then, also outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external Finishing work such as siding installation, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips to make the joint tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
   
3. From inside the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
   
4. It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50kg / m3. A less dense insulation will settle or roll to the bottom, which will entail the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
   
5. As with the floor, the layers of mineral wool should be laid in such a way as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets by at least 15-20 cm. The total thickness of the insulation depends on the climatic zone, but the average value is also 15 cm.
6. After all the insulation is laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill with polyurethane foam all the small voids formed at the joints of the boards and beams.
   
7. A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from the inside of the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to pull a vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture emanating from the inside of the house. On top of which the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in the installation of a vapor barrier membrane is that on inner corners do not overtighten it, and the vapor barrier completely repeated the corner of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the trim on the corners.
   

It is worth noting that this whole procedure can be done the other way around, first pull on the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the inner cladding material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool from the outside.

Thermal insulation of the inner walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of the insulation of the inner walls of a frame house are:

If there is no possibility, or strict requirements are not imposed on the sound insulation of internal partitions, it will be enough to use the same insulation as for the external walls. The thickness of the insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most crucial moments of thermal insulation of the whole house as a whole.

Now let's look at step by step how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

Because warm air has the ability to rise up, if the ceiling or roof is not properly insulated, the maximum amount of heat will leave the house.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation of a frame house

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of a frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done when the attic space is residential and heated.

The technology of insulation practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation, which protects the insulation from the external aggressive environment.

This is how it looks on the diagram thermal insulation layer mineral wool on the roof of a frame house:

Here are some features that will help make the DIY process easier:

It is worth noting that the roof can be insulated from the inside as well, if it is completely assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners, before pulling on the vapor barrier material, so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of insulation

Everything preparatory work for the thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, they are no different. Differences, and even then insignificant, in the installation of the insulation itself, which will be discussed later.

Now we will consider the main differences in insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene (foam) and EPS

If you delve into the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, foam for frame houses is not the best option, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for discussion.

The process of insulation with foam and extruded polystyrene foam is practically the same, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

1. Polyfoam does not always fit between the lags as tightly as mineral wool, so all gaps and voids must be removed using polyurethane foam or similar materials.
2. Expanded polystyrene - combustible material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion must not come into contact with it.
3. When using foam, you need to take care of improved ventilation, because this material is practically impervious to air.
4. Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene practically does not pass and does not absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing at home. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers must still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the tree itself from which the frame of the house is assembled.
5. Rodents are very fond of expanded polystyrene, which make their moves in it, so you need to take care that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences of use. expanded polystyrene plates and heaters based on them. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Features insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for warming not only frame houses. It can be used as a heater in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

1. Despite the fact that insulation with ecowool can be done without special equipment, I would not recommend doing this. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment, ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, hand-cooked ecowool has less good characteristics, both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
2. Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, therefore it is suitable for waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
3. It is necessary to apply ecowool with a margin, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
4. When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It is worth noting that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now there is a huge selection of materials with much the best characteristics, but still I will tell you a little about it.

1. Expanded clay in dry form, as a heater, can be used either to insulate the floor or ceiling, it is also possible for them to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it inside the walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, is not justified.
2. Very often, expanded clay warming is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
3. The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, from below under the logs, must be pierced either with a board in the joint, or with some plywood materials.
4. Expanded clay is better to use fine fractions, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that it doesn't make much sense to describe each of them.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even so reliable and quality constructions in the conditions of the Russian climate, they cannot do without insulation. And this means that a quiet life in the house depends on the choice of the correct version of it and on the literacy of the work.

Why do you need it?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, by the beginning of the season to have a full-fledged house. Moreover, such structures:

• environmentally friendly;
• are inexpensive;
• serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be rather difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

• Buildings for permanent use should have a solid thermal insulation by default.
• If it is planned to be there only from the end of spring to the end of autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

At the "frame" designed for summer period, wall thickness is no more than 70 mm. In the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either have to freeze or waste a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter residence not the entire volume of the frame will have to be insulated, but only its individual parts, first of all:

• stingrays;
• cellars;
• attic planes;
• basement structures.

It will not work to do just one warm floor, even if its power is excessive. Across basements, external walls and other parts of the structure of the panel house, the heat will flow away all the same cheerfully. Given the variety of conditions where heaters will be installed, give a universal answer about the best option it is forbidden. The basement walls are equipped with some types of thermal protection, load-bearing walls- others, overlapping the cold attic - third. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name suggests, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. This solution allows you to reliably close the existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer outdoor heaters.- because it does not take away precious interior space, which is always in short supply in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, Special attention it is worth paying attention to and preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; now you can figure out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What is it worth to insulate?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology provides for the use of tiles or rolls only. The difference is not only that "one is put in, the other is untwisted." Technologists know about the differences in nominal thickness. Usually increasing the layer thickness will increase the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be applied incorrectly, and this immediately devalues ​​all the advantages. Therefore, it is better either to turn to professionals, or to study the smallest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The overwhelming majority of amateur builders and official firms use the "brilliant four":

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral slabs;
• isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and loose substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with such a solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly ram the layer to be laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Plated materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their own "pitfalls".

So, use pure mineral wool for external insulation the walls are pointless: it will not hold well, and it will retain its thermal qualities only until the first rain or snow. A prerequisite for success is the attachment to a special structure made of vertically packed bars. Each bar is placed only where will pass the border between the slabs of mineral wool. You should also take care of external protection from getting wet.

When working, it is important to wear respiratory protection, wear special goggles and do not remove gloves.

Polyfoam is a substance of organic nature. Its undoubted advantages are:

• low specific gravity;
• protection of walls from strong winds;
• exclusion of decay.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to trim the walls with foam that has not undergone special processing.

Mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. A similar advantage can be obtained by using basalt wool, but it also has a significant plus - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

Many people call the use of penoizol an ideal solution.

But it also has weak points - after a few years, areas will form where the material will not adhere tightly. Therefore, the loss of heat will increase dramatically. The liquid version of the coating is characterized by more powerful adhesion and lasts 50-60 years (for this period a guarantee is given). The disadvantage, however, is also obvious - it will not be possible to achieve success without special equipment. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for keeping warm in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal wall insulation frame buildings roll materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be done very carefully. It is helpful to keep this in mind whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Expanded clay frame structures they are very rarely insulated, and such a choice does not justify even its low cost. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if he has already absorbed the liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum density in dry form, it presses on the walls, the foundation is very strong. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when exterior decoration choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in thermal qualities than mineral wool and foam. Therefore, it is imperative to use layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Warming is also a solid competitor to this material. stone wool... Working with her stoves is a pleasure, there is no need for complicated tools. Cutting into the desired fragments is done with a knife or a saw with fine teeth.

For your information: stone wool blocks must not be squeezed, rammed or squeezed. This will definitely lead to negative consequences... It is also necessary to use ecowool wisely. So, in its pure form ecological wool very flammable, but if you mix it with brown and boric acid, the level fire hazard will drop sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by weight) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores its functionality. Such advantages as an optimal microclimate, extinguishing extraneous sounds, lack of seams and sanitary safety. Concerning possible problems, they are as follows:

• you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfill in order to guarantee thermal protection;
• you will definitely need specialized equipment;
• if the control over the fastening was of poor quality, the material may settle;
• ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity can be present.

Insulation of frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it extremely primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the features of the material allows you to profitably embody its positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. It is only necessary to deal with the risk of ignition and with the settlement of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help to solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places, high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Coarse sawdust is usually taken on the rough insulating layer, and the retention of heat is mainly provided by a finer substance. When buying or self-procurement, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material, the quality of heat protection depends on it.

Adherents modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is widely used when working on floors, including:

• over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
• under the ceilings of attics;
• to strengthen acoustic protection structures dividing the floors of the house.

Usually, on the floors of frame houses, expanded polystyrene is placed in the intervals of the lags; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced cement and sand screed. The disadvantage of the material (easily removable, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - to prevent such a development of events, gaps are needed. It is important to remember about the flammability of this synthetic substance, it should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it on mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-thought-out ventilation must be provided in the frame house.

Input fresh air they are always organized from utility rooms, and the flow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but also a uniform distribution of heat in the dwelling cannot be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, they come to the rescue:

• special channels for overflow;
• gratings through the wall;
• separate channels for the passage of air into a specific room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the layer of insulation, the more stable it usually keeps heat. That's why the density of the structure should be given priority attention, it is much more important than a big name or whole line certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is expanded polystyrene (including its modification such as polystyrene foam). Even mineral wool is already just a light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a variety of conditions and situations.

If you need the strongest possible cold blocking (in living rooms and on the floor), the thickest version is required. For a non-residential attic, the bar is lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cu. m. wadded insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively weak load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

The P-125 brand is already more worthy, it can be used in different procedures:

• sheathing of ceilings and floors;
• thermal insulation of walls;
• heat protection of partitions;
• suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool of the PZh-175 category has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, v to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings... If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the most dense material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. Under the plaster, experts advise taking cotton with a specific gravity of 140-160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Requirements for heaters used in the interior of a frame house are less demanding.

When the dwelling is covered with a pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if it is planned to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

The minimum indicator for mineral wool under a flat roof is five times higher, and for expanded polystyrene it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In floors, loose insulation is allowed to be used only when laying in the intervals of the logs. V otherwise thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will negatively affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; mistakes in the selection of insulation can interfere with the achievement of this goal. More recently, to meet ecologically safe way thermal protection was possible only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more affordable. The first place is quite predictably taken by the fibers of natural raw materials:

• woody;
• linen;
• hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for the individual components to penetrate into the external space. In an environmentally clean house there is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool. Fragments of glass and stone fibers, tiny in size, cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause harm to health on a very large scale.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection is, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic processing of a number of materials - where it is really needed.

Fire retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely harmless. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always the preservation of the integrity of the insulating "pie" from which one or another substance cannot escape normally. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and still quite normal, based on data obtained from medical research in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming more and more in demand in frame construction. 1 cubic meter m of such material costs about 3 thousand rubles, and it will last from 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our turbulent era, such insulation is able to reduce the penetration of radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is unclear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions many years later.

Cork structures can be easily placed under the wallpaper, on interior walls and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Manufacturers overview

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also professionalism, conscientiousness of individual firms.

Attention: it should be borne in mind that we will only talk about the really best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies fireproof stone wool insulation to the market. At the same time, it focuses on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use this mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

• pipes;
• front walls;
• room partitions;
• roof structures;
• areas experiencing intense stress.

It takes 100 mm of such a slab to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

French corporation "Isover" sells to its consumers glass wool in roll, slab or matte configuration. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also meets the necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that can be easily installed even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which in production uses a much smaller amount of phenol, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

• plates of moderate hardness;
• products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
• high density hydrophobic constructions;
• products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of what specific substance is used, it is required to carefully calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you miscalculate with this indicator, you get either an insufficient effect, or excessively high costs for the purchase of thermal protection and for working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers who are left without supervision, making sure that no one checks them, will sooner or later “make a mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by such indicators as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat dissipation - but its drawbacks prevent widespread use of this material. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a particular area. So, in Moscow and its environs, the recommended layer of the majority good insulation does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use so many of them in the Far North, the result will be disastrous for the residents.

A standard formula of the form δout = (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 - δi / λi) × λout has the following components (sequentially):

• heat resistance of structures in a specific area;
• total thickness of all layers;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• the ability of the insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation is selected, the calculations are made, it's time to get ready for work properly. It is imperative to choose the necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

• With the dry version of the insulation, the "raw material" can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, the timber or metal structures of the frame being created. It is also useful to choose the ones that are consistent with the material. decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers.
• The "wet" scheme is realized with water-based adhesives.

Typical wall and roof insulation tools include:

• screwdriver;
• guns for applying polyurethane foam;
• hammers;
• jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
• puncher;

• spatulas;
• hydraulic levels;
• roulette;
• scissors for metal;
• containers for the preparation of solutions and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it strongly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, you should try to get high quality tools and expendable materials... All accessories purchased specifically or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not work to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark the exact right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Of all the hammers, the locksmith type is best suited.

It is suitable for all kinds of surfaces. On the one hand, such a tool is even and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is sharpened, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nailer. Divide foam and other insulating materials into parts, decorative elements you can use saws with a fine tooth. The teeth must be specially set and sharpened in a special way.

For cooking building mixtures only mixers with a spiral working part made of strong grades of steel are quite suitable. With the help of rollers, it is easy to apply primers and a variety of paints, even on very rough or rough surfaces. To apply the adhesive solution for the subsequent introduction of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use a Swiss ironing tool with teeth. The optimum tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm and is determined by the façade system manufacturer.

Self cover

In any case, step-by-step instructions require mounting a layer that protects against moisture. The only exception is made for situations where such protection is already outside (or inside). The reason is simple - the two-way locking of the water deprives it of its outlet. Liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually erode them.

The first step is usually measuring the outer surfaces and slicing waterproofing material according to their size.

This is followed by work with a vapor barrier. It will not be possible to bypass this point even in the case when hydrophobic or neutral substances that transfer contact with water are used for insulation. Indeed, in addition to them, the "pie" includes other details that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it will be correct to use a special film or foamed polyethylene to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the racks of the frames, ensuring the most tight pressing to the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in foil is a violation standard scheme- until all the components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished, they start working with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is to sew up the walls from the inside. Out of competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. GKL is recommended to be installed if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, due to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only preparation for a real finish.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to get the freshest and most adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width should be frame board in a particular case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand security measures and storage, transportation of each insulation coating better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when fixing structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the "pie". But communication with knowledgeable people helps to correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, care is taken to prevent condensation from entering the warm rooms... But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many "pitfalls". The choice of material for cladding is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - and yet a well-thought-out design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can apply natural insulation, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: here again master classes help.

For information on which insulation keeps heat better, see the next video.