30% of the heat from the house goes through the walls. This has been proven by research. Therefore, in order to reduce heat loss, it is recommended, and not from the inside. Firstly, internal thermal insulation is a reduction in the space of rooms. Secondly, the dew point passes under the insulation, that is, between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. This means that the wall will freeze through, which will affect its technical condition. Today, manufacturers of thermal insulation materials offer a wide range of their products. But the question of which one to choose does not become less relevant. Insulation for the walls of the house outside (price, specifications, installation methods) is the most important component of construction. Therefore, his choice must be approached with special care.

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Criteria for choosing insulation for the exterior walls of the house

The main indicator by which you need to make a choice,. The smaller it is, the better. The second criterion is hygroscopicity. This property is referred to as - to absorb moisture. The thing is that the moist air vapors that have penetrated inside at low temperatures will begin to turn into ice, which will negate all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by closing the insulation layer on both sides of the steam and waterproofing films. But this is another material cost. Although in some cases this is not enough.

The third criterion is strength. The outer side of the wall is a section that is often subjected to various loads, including mechanical ones. And although the heat-insulating layer will still need to be closed, this does not mean that the strength of the insulation must be approached from the position - "this is an unimportant component."

The fourth rule of choice is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide range, in which there are both very cheap materials and very expensive ones. Of course, the quality determines the price. But there are offers on the market in which the price-quality ratio is within the optimal limits. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the proposed heaters and choosing not the most expensive, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

Types of thermal insulation materials for wall insulation outside

Thermal insulation for walls outside - these are several modern materials belonging to the categories of fibrous and cellular.

1. The group of the first includes mineral wool: stone, glass, slag. The first is made from various rocks, which are melted and drawn into threads, then they are woven in a chaotic manner. For the second, the raw material is glass, for the third, waste from blast furnaces (slags). Three species have an increased coefficient of hygroscopicity.
2. The second group includes polymeric materials, which receive a cellular structure during the production process. It can be closed or open. The first option is better, because such heaters do not absorb moisture.

Consider a few basic insulation for walls outside, denote their technical characteristics.

Specifications	glass wool	slag	Stone
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.03÷0.052	0.046÷0.048	0.035÷0.041
Maximum heating temperature, °C	500	300	600
Water absorption, %	2÷3	2	1÷2
Fiber thickness, microns	5÷15	4÷12	3÷5
Fiber length, mm	15÷50	16	5÷10

The table shows those characteristics that are not related to the density of the material. Because manufacturers offer models with different densities, hence the purpose of each brand. For example, P-75 insulation has a density of 75 kg / m³. Such wool is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of surfaces that are not subjected to large mechanical loads. That is, for the insulation of walls outside the house, this option is just right. Although it is necessary to take into account the fact that this material does not have the highest strength. It is optimal for reinforced concrete walls to use PZh-175 cotton wool.

Attention! Mineral wool is produced in rolls and in mats. For thermal insulation of walls, it is better to use the second form of manufacture.

Manufacturers today, for example, offer basalt wool in mats, one edge that compresses well, but straightens out when installed between frame elements. Thus, the material fits snugly to the frame, without creating cold bridges.

Polymer cellular insulation

The most famous insulation from this category is foam. In fact, these are polystyrene plates, in which the source material is only 2%, the rest is air. Hence the good thermal insulation performance, and low strength, and low price.

It should be noted that the foam that is used as packaging cannot be called a heater. That is, speaking of insulation for the exterior walls of the house, one must mean modified polystyrene foam boards.

Modified polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene boards for thermal insulation differ from packing polystyrene with increased density. The second is made by the non-pressing method, hence its low strength characteristics. Expanded polystyrene plates are molded under pressure using high temperatures, thereby increasing their density, and, accordingly, their strength.

There is also the so-called extruded polystyrene foam in this category, its prominent representative is the plates produced under the brand name. This is still the same polymer insulation, only the technology of its production is based on the melting of the feedstock, followed by the addition of a foaming agent and pressure molding, or rather, extrusion. This process is called extrusion. At the same time, this technology makes it possible to cast products of any shape, not only plates.

So, let's compare three foam polystyrene insulation; non-pressed - PSB, pressed - PS, extruded - XPS.

Specifications	PSB	PS	EPS
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.032÷0.036	0.032÷0.035	0,032
Density, kg/m³	15÷50	25÷45	25÷45
Compressive strength, MPa	0.07÷0.38	0.15÷0.25	0,2
Bending strength, MPa	0.15÷0.42	0.2÷0.25	0,25
Water absorption, %	8÷10	4	0,4

Now, as for the insulation of the house from the outside with foam, that is, a non-pressed model. This material has a high water absorption rate. Therefore, in any case, it will have to be closed. Warming the house outside with Penoplex is an opportunity not only not to close the heat-insulating layer with waterproofing, but also to apply wet types of finishes to it: and.

Again, pay attention to density. All other parameters depend on it. The denser the plate, the higher the quality of its characteristics.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the best insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity - 0.019 ÷ 0.03 W / (m × K). At the same time, the polymer has other high characteristics:

• does not absorb water;
• does not let steam through;
• high chemical resistance;
• attaches to any building materials without additional fasteners;
• low G1, some types of PPU are self-extinguishing types;
• material density is 30÷80 kg/m³;
• service life of at least 30 years.

Attention! Preparing polyurethane foam construction site by combining two components: polyol and isocyanate. Mixing with each other, they form a liquid mixture, which is applied to the wall for thermal insulation. In the air, the insulation turns into a solid and durable material.

That is, for carrying out heat-insulating measures with polyurethane foam, special equipment is needed, where the mixing of the two components is carried out. The insulation itself is applied under pressure to the insulated surfaces.

Alternative solutions - liquid wall insulation

The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is just slang among the inhabitants. This material is a mastic or, which includes:

• hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02÷0.1 mm in diameter) made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
• microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
• binder, acrylic or latex is more often used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, then it is applied to the treated surfaces in the usual way: using a brush, roller or spray gun. At the same time, a small film thickness is formed on the surfaces - at least 1 mm. And it is enough to talk about thermal protection.

But why such a thin coating creates the effect of warming. Here you need to understand in what ways heat flows through the walls of the house.

1. thermal conductivity of the wall. That is, heat is transferred from a heated material to a cold one. In liquid thermal insulation, only binding ingredients can transfer heat. And they are only 20% in the volume of insulation.
2. Convection. There are no options here, because in the composition of the heat-insulating material a large volume is occupied by granules filled with air.
3. Radiation. This is the transfer of thermal energy due to the energy state of the substance itself. Inside the mastic, 90% are balls that reflect thermal energy. That is, the material applied to the walls of the house creates the effect of a thermos.

Today, manufacturers of liquid thermal insulation offer different compositions that are used for different building structures. Since materials for wall insulation from the outside are being dismantled, it is necessary to choose a mastic intended for application to the facade of the building. Its name necessarily contains the word "Facade". For example, Korund-Facade, Bronya-Facade. Although many universal thermal paints can be used for thermal insulation of the external walls of buildings.

Here are the technical characteristics of Korund-Facade:

Specifications	Paint Korund-Facade
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0,0012
Heat transfer, W/(m²×K)	4
Vapor permeability, mg/(m×h×Pa)	0,03
Water absorption, %	2
Service life on concrete surfaces, years	10
Bending elasticity of the film, mm	1
Resistance to temperature changes, °С	-60 to +120
Paint application temperature, °C	+7
Adhesion, score	1

Ventilated facades

In modern construction, two types are used:

1. Traditional when applied directly to the wall surface with different fixing methods.
2. ventilated- this is when a gap remains between the wall and the cladding, which acts as ventilation. With its help, wet vapors and condensate are removed from the wall surface.

So in the first case, when the task is to insulate the wall, moisture-resistant materials are used. These include polystyrene foam boards made using extrusion technology. That is, if the question is raised of choosing a heater for the walls of the house outside under, then Penoplex is used. It is simply glued to the wall with a special adhesive or fastened with mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. Polyurethane foam behaves well under wet coatings.

As for ventilated facades, any insulation from the above can be used here. Because this design, firstly, is a frame, and secondly, it is possible to fix it in the form of a membrane, which will save the insulation from the negative effects of moisture.

For example, how to properly use mineral wool in ventilated insulated facades.

1. The frame is stuffed onto the wall - these are vertical wooden ones, the distance between which should be slightly less than the width of the basalt mat.
2. A vapor barrier film with sag is laid. That is, it is attached to the frame, but the main canvas must be adjacent to the surface of the wall.
3. Insulation is placed between the elements of the crate.
4. A waterproofing membrane is stuffed over the frame structure.
5. According to the elements of the frame, exactly the same bars are installed and fastened.
6. On them, the cladding is mounted in the form of, and other sheet or panel products.

Three-layer wall construction

This wall insulation technology has been known for a long time. In fact, these are two walls, between which heat-insulating material is laid. The option is very good, but with some requirements specifically for the insulation, because this layer must work for a long time. Getting close to it if replacement or repair is required will be difficult, and often impossible. So there are two main requirements:

1. The material must be resistant to shrinkage. This can only be ensured by polystyrene boards of the PS or EPS brand with a density of at least 45 kg / m³.
2. Water absorption of thermal insulation should not exceed 1%. We turn to the tables with technical characteristics and see that only polystyrene foam boards made by extrusion are suitable for this requirement.

There are no other options, so Penoplex is used in this technology.

Rules for calculating insulation for house walls

We turn to a very important question, how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. To make it clear, let's consider it using the example of insulating a wall erected from a foam block with a thickness of 30 cm or 0.3 m. The insulation is basalt wool, which from the outside will be covered with a facing brick 12 cm (0.12 m) thick.

Input data:

1. The thermal conductivity of the foam block is 0.26 W / (m × K).
2. The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.045.
3. The thermal conductivity of a brick is 0.52.
4. The heat resistance of the region where the house is being built is 3.45 m² × ° C / W. This corresponds to an indoor temperature of +22°C.

R = H / λ , where

H is the thickness of the material,

λ is its thermal conductivity.

• Rс = 0.3 × 0.26 = 0.078 is the thermal resistance of the wall.
• Rc = 0.12 × 0.52 = 0.062 - This is an indicator for a brick.

The resistance of a region is the sum of the resistances of all the materials used in the construction of the house wall. That is:

R \u003d Rc + Rk + Ru , where

Ru - this is the heat resistance of the insulation, and it must be found.

It turns out:

Ru \u003d R - Rc - Rk \u003d 3.45 - 0.078 - 0.062 \u003d 3.31.

From the formula: R=H/λ you can display the thickness of the insulation layer: H = R × λ = 3.31 × 0.045 = 0.15 m , or 15 cm, or 150 mm.

Thickness of thermal insulation materials in comparison

Nowadays, none of the owners of private houses need to be convinced how important it is to insulate the walls from the outside. And it is best to insulate the walls of houses during construction, when access to all structures is open from all sides. Then you can arrange thermal insulation with the most the right way- from the outside, and from the very foundation and basement to the roof of the building.

But, given how much it costs to carry out these works, many homeowners insulate their homes on their own in order to save money, because in reality the process technology is not so complicated. The purpose of this article is to talk about how it is better to sheathe the walls and how you can properly make the external insulation of the house with your own hands.

The choice of insulation

The list of heat-insulating materials used as the outer skin of the building envelope of private houses cannot be called long. And if we also take into account the cost of these materials and choose the cheaper it is to produce insulation, then the list is completely reduced to a few positions:

• mineral wool (stone, basalt) in slabs and rolls;
• mineral wool based on fiberglass in rolls;
• expanded polystyrene boards (polystyrene);
• plates from extruded expanded polystyrene (penoplex).

Note. Listed here are the most popular and inexpensive materials used to insulate walls from the outside. In addition to them, there is also ecowool made from waste paper and sprayed polyurethane foam. But these are more expensive heaters, besides, it will not work to apply polyurethane foam on its own, this requires special units.

From the point of view of fire safety and resistance to rodents, the best option is thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool based on basalt fiber. The material does not burn at all and calmly withstands temperatures up to 600 ° C, which is why it is also used for insulating various chimneys, both brick and metal. Mice do not like mineral wool, unlike ecowool and polystyrene, and therefore the owner country house in rural areas, you can be calm for the safety of the insulation.

For reference. It is for these reasons that in frame houses mineral wool insulation technology is provided, since it is part of the outer wall, as shown in the diagram:

The thermal insulation performance of basalt wool is quite high, although slightly worse than that of foamed polymers. But this is not the main problem of this material, its first enemy is moisture. Due to open pores, any mineral wool has a high vapor permeability, which means that it needs protection from moisture and good ventilation to remove steam.


Rolled glass wool has the same qualities, except fireproof. Its temperature limit is only 200 ° C, so glass wool cannot withstand fire. Incidentally, roll materials- not the best choice for external insulation of the house, because it tends to slide down and stray as it gets wet. Of course, over time, moisture leaves, but the insulation will not return to the design position and whole uninsulated gaps under the finish will appear, not visible to the eye.

About foamed polymers

Most cheap material, which is used to insulate the house from the outside, is polystyrene, which is also the most popular. It has a higher thermal resistance than cotton wool and almost does not allow moisture to pass through, while being very light in weight. This is understandable, because the polymer consists of closed pores filled with air. Its serious drawback is combustibility, which should be taken into account when taking on the thermal insulation of walls.

Often on the Internet there is a question - is it possible to insulate residential buildings with foam, including wooden ones? We will present the answer on the example of panel houses assembled from multilayer elements - thermal beam and SIP - panels. In these elements, the foam insulation layer is part of the outer wall, only on both sides it is protected by facings of wood or OSB plywood, as shown in the photo below. That is, to insulate the facade, including panel house, this polymer is possible, especially outside, but this must be done wisely.

Regarding the question of which foam is better to sheathe the building envelope of a residential building or cottage. The most "travelling" material has a density of 25 kg / m3, it is quite warm and at the same time durable. There is also polystyrene with a density of 15 and 35 kg / m3, but the first is rarely used due to brittleness, and the second because of the high cost. True, a high density is needed when the structure is under mechanical stress, for example, during thermal insulation of floors.

The "brother" of polystyrene - extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) absolutely does not let moisture through, and it resists heat penetration more successfully. Therefore, to insulate the same stone house, a layer of foam plastic will be required less than the materials listed earlier. Expanded polystyrene, like mineral wool, is not to the taste of rodents, while in unprotected foam insulation Mice love to make nests. Like any polymer, the "extruder" is flammable, and therefore needs to be protected from high temperatures.

Calculation of insulation thickness

Ideally, the thickness should be taken according to the calculation, depending on what materials the enclosing structures are built from and the region of residence. If we take the same region, then the thickness of the thermal insulation for concrete or cinder block walls there will be more, and for a house made of aerated concrete or foam blocks - less. That is, a lot depends on what thermal insulation properties the material of the block house has.

Advice. To make external insulation correctly, you need to work hard and find in reference literature or on the Internet, the thermal conductivity of your building materials and calculate the thickness of the insulation.

A fairly accurate calculation can be performed on the basis of the data in the table, reflecting the regulatory requirements for the thermal resistance of walls in different regions of the Russian Federation. For example, knowing that in Kazan this resistance R should be 3.3 m2 °C/W, it is necessary to calculate how much an ordinary brick wall of 250 mm will give and then add the required thickness of thermal insulation. Resistance brick wall equals 0.187 m2 °C / W (following table), subtract this number from the total figure: 3.3 - 0.187 \u003d 3.113 m2 °C / W.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the foam λ = 0.037 W / m2 °C (reference data), we substitute it into the formula for determining the thickness along with the required heat transfer resistance:
δ = R x λ = 3.113 x 0.037 = 0.115 m

It turns out that in Kazan to ordinary wall at least 115 mm of foam must be added to 1 brick for minimal thermal insulation, and for good - 150 mm. According to this method, the thickness of insulation is calculated in any house made of logs, blocks or timber in combination with any heat-insulating material.

External insulation of the walls of a brick house

For capital residential buildings with brick, stone or concrete walls, there are two generally recognized methods of external insulation:

• wet process technology involves the use of building mixtures and decorative plasters;
• mechanical fastening of the material to the facade is done under siding, block house or other types of finishes.

"Wet" insulation brick house it is more difficult to perform, as it requires some skills, so not everyone can do it with their own hands. In this case, both polystyrene and mineral wool are used, only the adhesive mixture for them also needs a different one. Well-known manufacturers such as CERESIT sell complete sets insulating and finishing materials for thermal insulation of facades in one way or another.

The essence of the technique is as follows. A layer of deep penetration primer is first applied to the cleaned and leveled surfaces, and after it dries, a slab insulation is glued, roll insulation will not work here. Because slopes plastic windows houses also need to be insulated, then insulating material is glued to them, whose thickness is half that of the wall layer. After 2 days, the insulation is fixed mechanically using special dowel umbrellas.

Note. For panel apartment buildings and large cottages with balconies, the technology is preserved under one condition. The parapet of the balcony must be solid so that heat-insulating plates can be glued to it. Otherwise, the parapet will have to be built from foam - or gas blocks, or this technique should be abandoned.

On all surfaces, including window slopes, a reinforcing glass mesh is applied simultaneously with a layer of adhesive mixture up to 5 mm thick. This layer is waterproofing, and after it a decorative one is applied. plaster layer with texture (bark beetle, shagreen and so on). Only before this, the cured glue is again treated with a primer. And the last step is coloring, although it can not be done, it is enough to add the necessary color to the plaster.

Thermal insulation in a wet way does not provide any vapor barrier, leaving the thickness of the wall of the house permeable to steam. On the other hand, the outer layer of the adhesive mixture is waterproofing, protecting the insulation from direct water ingress. The technology is applicable to the outer walls of the house and the basement (only without decorative plaster), it will not work to insulate the attic or roof in the same way. There is more appropriate isolation from the inside.

The second method of insulation is used for both brick and wooden log and timber houses and will therefore be discussed in the next section. More information about the "wet" thermal insulation of residential buildings is described in the video:

External insulation of a wooden house from a bar

Before proceeding with the sheathing of a log house or timber house, the surface should be carefully prepared. This is especially true of old log walls, which need to be caulked in order to close all the cracks. For obvious reasons, insulate wooden house outside in a “wet” way is impossible, so a crate of timber is attached to the walls. Its width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The interval between the bars is also selected depending on the width of the roll or thermal insulation plate.

For reference. Sometimes it happens that before insulating the external structures of the log house, it is necessary to cut off the protruding crowns of logs in the corners of the house. Bypassing them with a system of rails and trim is very problematic.

A vapor barrier is laid under the bars over the entire area of ​​​​the wall of the house - dense polyethylene film. At the joints, the film is laid with an overlap of at least 100 mm, after which it is glued along the entire length with construction tape. Well, when the joint falls under the crate beam, then it is additionally pressed against the surface.

At the next stage, a heater is laid between the rails and fixed convenient way, you can use the same dowel-umbrellas, only plastic. After that, the film is again stretched over the entire area, but not ordinary, but passing vapor. It is called a diffusion membrane and protects the thermal insulation from wind and direct water ingress (wind hydro barrier). At the same time, the water vapor formed in the insulation from the appearance of the dew point has the ability to escape through the membrane to the outside.

In order to ensure the removal of moisture from the outer part of the membrane, a ventilated air layer is arranged between it and the lining. To do this, the wind barrier film (membrane) is nailed to the lathing bars with strips 3-5 cm wide, and the siding or block house is already attached to them. By the way, the walls of the attic are sheathed in a similar way, only inside. How the correct do-it-yourself insulation pie looks like is shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

The conclusion that suggests itself from the foregoing is this: for external insulation of private houses, you should not use rolled mineral wool insulation and low-density foam (below 25 kg / m3). The best option remains - mineral wool and polymers in plates. As for the methods of thermal insulation, it is better to insulate capital stone buildings using technology with plastering, and wooden crate leave for wooden houses, including country houses.

« How to insulate the house from the outside? - this question worries many owners of private buildings. Insulation of any room from the outside creates not only a comfortable microclimate, but also has an economic effect. First of all, the increase in temperature eliminates the need for frequent switching on of additional heating. Secondly, low temperatures promote the development of fungus and mold. For this reason, things, ceilings, walls begin to rot. And again - additional costs.

Thermal insulation outside is done in different ways. However, when choosing a suitable insulation, it is necessary to focus on the material from which the walls are made. Let's look at several options for thermal insulation and types of insulation.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?

2. Prime the surface.

3. Install ebbs (external window sills). Align them horizontally with a level.

4. Place a base that will keep the line and prevent the slab from sliding down.

Start laying foam sheets from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row will depend on how correctly the lowest plate is set. Plates "seat" on the glue. After 3 days, further strengthen them with nails. If the foam is used to insulate a house from a bar, carefully seal all the cracks and holes. You can take any material - mounting foam, ecowool or mineral wool. The main thing is that you eliminate drafts and air circulation.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside

How can you insulate the house from the outside

2. Coat the boards with another layer of the same mixture. This is for added protection.

3. Apply alkali resistant fiberglass mesh.

4. Prime the entire surface.

5. Last layer- choose yourself. Can be plastered or painted. And you can choose some decorative material.

How to insulate wooden house outside

First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that a tree of any species evaporates moisture. That is why during the insulation of external walls, care must be taken to create high-quality ventilation. As a heater, choose basalt wool or glass wool. The second option will cost you less. Before starting work, replace wooden window frames with plastic frames.

Installation begins with the installation of a frame, which is mounted from wooden slats installed vertically. The distance between the rails is equal to the width of the heat-insulating material plate. For fastening, special plastic dowels are used.

How to insulate log house outside

For the construction of a house from a bar, as a rule, a bar with a section of 200 by 200 mm or 150 by 150 mm is used. The technology of construction from this material came to us from the southern countries, so in our country it “gives” its owners with enormous heat losses. However, with skillful hands and desire, you can reduce them to almost zero.

2 layers - timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm

For those who have planned repairs in the kitchen, it will be interesting to know how to do it. suspended ceiling on the kitchen.

2. Make the first layer of waterproofing.

3. Mount the crate.

4. Install insulation.

5. Make a second layer of waterproofing.

2. Install the foam: attach it to the wall with special adhesive mixtures. Apply the composition, spread evenly over the entire surface. After drying, reinforce the foam with umbrella dowels.

3. Make reinforcement. For this purpose, a plaster mesh made of plastic is suitable, on which a layer of plaster is subsequently applied.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside: the best insulation

It is quite difficult to achieve optimal efficiency in energy saving at home, even with an ultra-modern heating system, but without resorting to insulation of external walls. It has been experimentally established that about 30% heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside. Thus, with the help of special materials with a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, the protection of walls from external influences is enhanced. Warming from the outside creates a kind of barrier between the damp and cold atmosphere of the street and the microclimate inside the home. However, the success of this process will directly depend on the right insulation.

Types of materials for wall insulation outside

Most often, houses are insulated from the outside with the following types of materials:

Styrofoam- has a low thermal conductivity. 90% air and 10% polymers. Easy to install and pretty cheap.

Mineral wool- a heat-insulating material that is made from metallurgical slags and silicates. Unlike glass wool, working with it is safe.

polyurethane foam- does not require building frame structures. All work is carried out only by professionals, since working with insulation requires certain skills.

Penoplex- a new formula of wall insulation, which retains heat better and more efficiently. It has a finely porous structure due to extrusion. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics.

They also use thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene, liquid expanded clay materials, cellulose, etc. for insulation. However, these heaters are not used as often as the above. Therefore, we will focus on the consideration of the main insulation for walls.

Mineral wool

Mineral (basalt, stone) wool is a fibrous structure insulation, which is similar to the natural material basalt. This insulation is made from alloys of volcanic rocks at a very high temperature. Such wool is completely fireproof and is not affected by fire.

Mineral wool options

Benefits of mineral wool:

Thermal insulation characteristics are very high due to the porous qualities of the fiber. The material perfectly retains heat, and in summer it does not allow heat into the house.

The soundproofing qualities of basalt wool are high, thanks to the chaotic interweaving of basalt fibers, which delays sound waves.

Long service life. Once you have insulated the walls of your house with mineral wool, you can no longer worry about thermal insulation.

High tightness throughout the entire period of operation.

Mineral wool is an absolutely ecological wall insulation that does not pose a danger to either people or environment. Installation of mineral wool on the facade and walls takes place in several stages:

Preparing the walls of the house outside.

Laying a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane over the wall.

Fastening wooden slats or profiles to walls.

Laying heat-insulating mats.

Another layer of film is stretched over the insulation.

The device of the ventilating facade of the house outside.

And at the finishing stage, new slopes, window sills and trim elements are installed due to the increase in wall thickness.

The cost of such a house insulation varies from 100 to 400 rubles per m².

Styrofoam is very often used to insulate walls from the outside. After all, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.032-0.038 W/m*K and are slightly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam.

Such a heater has many advantages:

Excellent sound insulation of walls;

Light weight, which does not increase the load on the building;

Simplicity and ease of installation.

Installation of foam on the walls of the house is as follows:

Scheme of installation of foam insulation

Setting the start profile.

Applying adhesive to the insulation.

gluing foam boards on the walls of the house.

Fixing sheets with dowel fasteners.

Installation of reinforcement elements.

Application of a decorative protective layer on the wall.

Giving texture to the facade.

Mounted foam drawing

The cost of such a heater is available - about 50 rubles per m²

polyurethane foam

This material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside is one of the varieties of plastic. It has a cellular foamy structure and 90% is made up of gaseous matter. The rest of the volume is the walls of the cells.

Sectional polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation and properties of polyurethane foam:

The thermal conductivity of the material lies in the range of 0.018 to 0.035 W / m * K, which is better than that of mineral wool.

Perfectly absorbs noise and delays sounds.

Resistant to aggressive chemicals.

It has low moisture permeability properties.

The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 30 years old. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Insulation of the walls of the house with the help of this heat-insulating material takes place in the following order:

Scheme of insulation with polyurethane foam

Reinforcement to improve thermal insulation.

The cost of polyurethane foam is calculated based on the size of the wall to be insulated. For example, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of the facade up to 50 sq. m. It will cost from 300 rubles per m².

Extruded foam is an innovative development that is designed to save energy.

Advantages of foam insulation:

The lowest thermal conductivity than all of the above materials.

Can withstand heavy loads.

It has long term operation - more than 40 years.

Today, more and more home owners prefer penolex because of its high performance characteristics. How is the process of installing insulation:

Penoplex insulation scheme

Preparatory work on the walls.

Applying glue to insulation boards.

Fastening with dowels.

Finishing outside.

The cost of such material varies from 300 to 400 rubles per m².

Features of installing insulation for the home

It is worth noting that the process of installing any type of insulation may differ depending on what material the house itself is built from. Log walls, for example, do not require an air layer between the layers of thermal insulation and the outer surface of the walls. After warming a house made of wood, a ventilated facade is almost always preferred, which provides air circulation. Sometimes it is lined with boards, clapboard or facade tiles are installed. The insulation of the walls of the house, made of bricks and panel blocks, is carried out according to a similar, standard principle.

Insulation for the walls of the house outside: how to insulate and which is better

It has been experimentally established that about 30% of heat escapes through non-insulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside.

How to insulate the house from the outside and how

In order to improve the heat-saving characteristics and increase the durability of a house made of wood, brick or foam concrete, insulation is often made from the outside according to the principle of a hinged facade or using “wet” technology. In this article, we will figure out how to carry out external insulation of a house and what heat-insulating materials are best used for this.

Overview of insulation materials

Mineral wool

Mineral (stone or glass) wool is the most versatile insulation that is produced with various indicators density. For internal insulation, a less dense version of the heat insulator is used, for external arrangement it is more dense, which is able to withstand various negative impacts. Generally, mineral wool differs from other types of insulation in high thermal insulation capacity, durability, incombustibility, mechanical strength. Its disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture and a rather high cost.

Ecowool refers to environmentally friendly types of insulation with low thermal conductivity, like a mineral wool heat insulator. Ecowool is produced from recycled cellulose raw materials and impregnated special formulations preventing fire and decay of the material. The only disadvantage of ecowool is that it is difficult technological process application by spraying, however, this method allows you to evenly fill all the cracks and constructive ledges facades, reliably protecting the building from the penetration of cold and moisture into the interior.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most popular polymer types insulation, characterized by durability, almost zero water absorption, excellent heat-saving properties, ease of installation. Most types polystyrene boards impregnated with flame retardant compounds, thus improving its fire resistance. Unlike heaters made from natural components, polystyrene and other types of polymer heat insulators are not susceptible to damage by microorganisms: mold, fungus and moss.

Styrofoam is a heater with a sufficiently high heat-insulating ability, light in weight and easy to install, moisture resistant and inexpensive. The disadvantages of polystyrene include its airtightness, low resistance to mechanical damage and toxicity when ignited. In addition, the foam has a low durability, it is destroyed by elevated temperatures and in contact with chemically aggressive substances that are part of some paint and varnish coatings.

What material to choose

But, along with excellent heat-saving properties, insulating materials of natural origin have increased hygroscopicity - they quickly absorb moisture, retain it in their thickness, and when frost sets in, they freeze and lose their ability to shield the cold.

In order to protect the insulation layer of natural materials, it is recommended to use vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes, which screen moisture and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the walls.

Unlike mineral wool and other types of insulation made from natural raw materials, thermal insulation made of foamed polymers practically does not absorb moisture and serves for a long time. If the installation of stone or glass wool is associated with certain difficulties and requires compliance with safety standards, then the installation of foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam can be quickly and easily done by yourself. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of these materials are slightly worse than mineral wool.

Features of insulation of the walls of the house outside

Wall insulation from the outside is mainly carried out according to the technology of hinged facades, leaving a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the finishing cladding - this way the walls of the house are more efficiently ventilated.

Stages of warming the house outside when arranging a hinged facade:

• Cleaning and drying, treatment of walls with antiseptic compounds.
• Installation of a vapor barrier film with sealing of the joints of the panels with mounting tape.
• Installation of the frame for the installation of insulation and external cladding.
• Insulation laying, fixing with dish-shaped dowels.
• Installation of a waterproofing, windproof multifunctional membrane.
• Fixing the facade finish on the frame using clamps.

Insulation of the facades of the house can also be carried out using the "wet" technology - glue a layer of heat insulator to the outer walls and apply a layer of decorative paint or plaster.

Conclusion

In some regions of Russia, the heat-saving properties of brick, wooden, concrete walls are often not enough to form a comfortable microclimate inside the house. External insulation will create an optimal temperature regime in the interior of the building and significantly save on heating.

To maintain the ability of the walls to pass air, it is recommended to insulate houses with heat insulators made from natural materials. But if the budget allocated for home insulation is limited, then best solution there will be the use of polymer types of thermal insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene - in addition, these materials are easy to assemble with your own hands.

How to insulate a house from the outside and how: Expert advice

How to properly insulate a house from the outside and what material to choose for insulation, in the answers of construction specialists.

The reason for the external insulation is that the thermal insulation for the walls, made inside the room, does not allow the internal air to warm up the building. As a result, in the cold season, on a cooled wall, with inside, condensation forms. Thermal insulation does not allow it to evaporate, which entails not only the formation of mold and fungus between the insulation and the wall.

A completely opposite result is obtained when the walls are insulated from the outside. In this case, the walls warm up normally even in very coldy- thermal insulation does not allow them to cool down and at the same time they remain completely dry - after all, the insulation does not allow cold air to penetrate inside. It is for this reason that the facades are insulated, and not the walls from the inside.

But in this case, the question arises, what about the finish? Modern thermal insulation materials are great for plastering or pasting them. decorative tiles. It only requires some preparation, which was already mentioned in one of our articles. Well, what thermal insulator should be used for insulation - decide for yourself home master. We, in turn, will try to facilitate this choice and talk about various materials used for these purposes.

There are two ways to insulate a building - apply internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. What is the best heater to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on physical properties wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation of the thickness.

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
• the ability to regulate the microclimate in the room;
• high sound absorption rates;
• ecological cleanliness;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

• resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
• strength and durability;
• elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
• low weight;
• the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
• ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
• ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation for the walls of the house outside. Video showing the opportunity self-fulfillment Works (as well as other manuals) in our time can be found enough.

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the premises from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the method of installation. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.

The most commonly used types of heaters are:

• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex);
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt heaters;
• liquid insulation.

Styrofoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymeric insulation for house walls and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial.

First of all, this material is distinguished by low coefficients of thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproofing and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of the degree of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and has a small weight

Other advantages include flexibility and light weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation.

The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its combustibility, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic, followed by cladding with siding

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 - 0.031 W / m * K. It is mildew resistant chemical substances, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator.

Due to this, it is possible to use penoplex as a heater outside: for the walls of wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam is different high level adhesion with all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing.

A seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the wall of the building and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in durability, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high degree of sound absorption and low cost.

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as a heater for the walls of the house outside. The dimensions of the boards produced can be as follows:

• 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
• 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and buildings made of timber. bricks or foam blocks. It is possible to carry out work with this material at a temperature in the range from -60ºС to 220ºС, which is definitely convenient when mounted on walls from the outside.

What insulation is better for the roof of different designs. Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Mansard roof insulation.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the house from the outside, followed by siding.

It is also popular to use mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blown insulation. With this method, using a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade. which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid heat-insulating materials can be called heaters of a new generation. It is possible to use them both for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses made of foam blocks. Outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint.

However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid heaters are similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using paint tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices.

The choice of insulation for external walls. 3 options for wall insulation from the outside

Wall insulation from the outside can be carried out different materials. There is a wide range on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of the house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And you should not always believe the manufacturer's advertising.

Warming the facade of the house with modern materials will be useless without observing the technology. This should also be taken into account when preparing for work. Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to comply with the insulation technology

Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

• inorganic;
• organic.

The second group has more representatives. This includes products of the chemical industry: expanded polystyrenes (foam plastic, foam plastic), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the facade of the house from the outside, first of all, you need to pay attention to the physical properties.

Styrofoam

Such thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. Styrofoam is highly efficient, easy to install, and isolates noise quite well. Another advantage is the affordable price. But the disadvantages of such material are significantly greater. To choose the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has such qualities as:

• combustibility;
• fragility (service life rarely exceeds 10-20 years);
• poor vapor permeability (additional ventilation of the premises will be required);
• instability to the simultaneous effects of cold and moisture (the material crumbles into separate balls);
• low strength.

Styrofoam is affordable, excellent thermal insulation, but flammable and short-lived

There is a possibility that during the aging process the material will release toxic styrene. The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate into the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer's statements about environmental friendliness.

Read more about the insulation of the facade with foam plastic.

To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, foam plastic. This material is a close relative of foam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous version, it is devoid of such important cons, how:

• instability to moisture and cold;
• low strength;
• fragility.

Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers increase the fire resistance class by introducing special additives, it is not possible to obtain a completely non-combustible material.

Penoplex is a strong durable material, but it has a low fire resistance class.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade of a wooden house is not recommended using foam or polystyrene foam. Such buildings are valued by the owners for the naturalness of the materials and the ability of the walls to “breathe”. External insulation with polystyrene will completely block the movement of air. In this case, additional forced ventilation may even be required, since natural ventilation will not be enough. Polystyrenes can easily turn a building into a greenhouse, it is worth remembering this when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

Read more about facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam.

Ecowool

Such a material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is completely made from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to decay and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding minerals: boric acid and borax.

Quite a real situation - in a private house mounted and running efficient system heating, but it is not possible to achieve comfortable living conditions if the building itself does not have good thermal insulation. The consumption of any energy carriers in such a situation jumps to completely unimaginable limits, but the generated heat is completely uselessly spent on “heating the street”.

All the main elements and structures of the building must be insulated. But against the general background, external walls are leading in terms of heat loss, and it is necessary to think about their reliable thermal insulation in the first place. Insulators for the exterior walls of the house in our time are on sale in a very wide range, and you need to be able to navigate this variety, since not all materials are equally good for certain conditions.

The main ways to insulate the external walls of the house

The main task of wall insulation is to bring the total value of their resistance to heat transfer to the calculated indicator, which is determined for a given area. We will definitely dwell on the calculation method a little lower, after considering the physical and operational characteristics of the main types of insulation. And for starters, you should consider the existing technologies for thermal insulation of external walls.

• Most often resort to external insulation already erected walls of the building. This approach is able to solve to the maximum extent all the main problems of thermal insulation and saving walls from freezing and the accompanying negative phenomena of damage, dampness, erosion. building material.

There are a lot of ways in external insulation, but in private construction they most often resort to two technologies.

- The first is the plastering of the walls over the thermal insulation layer.

1 - the outer wall of the building.

2 - mounting adhesive, on which thermal insulation material (pos. 3) is attached closely, without gaps. Reliable fixation, in addition, is provided by special dowels - "fungi" (pos. 4).

5 - base plaster layer with fiberglass mesh reinforcement inside (pos. 6).

7 - layer. Facade paint can also be used.

- The second - facing the walls insulated from the outside decorative materials(siding, panels, " block house", etc.) according to the ventilated facade system.

1 - the main wall of the house.

2 - frame ( crate). It can be made from wooden beams or from galvanized metal profiles.

3 - slabs (blocks, mats) of thermal insulation material laid between the guides of the lathing.

4 - waterproofing diffuse steam-permeable a membrane that simultaneously performs the role of wind protection.

5 - a structural element of the frame (in this case - a counter-lattice rail), creating an air ventilated gap with a thickness of about 30 ÷ 60 mm.

6 - external decorative cladding facade.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

So, a plastered insulated surface (it is often called a “thermal fur coat”) is quite difficult to perform on its own if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. This process is quite "dirty" and laborious, but in terms of the total cost of materials, such insulation is usually cheaper.

There is also an “integrated approach” to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facing facade panels, the design of which already provides a layer of thermal insulation. Plastering work in this case is not foreseen - after installation, it remains only to fill the seams between the tiles.

Installation of a ventilated facade practically does not involve "wet" work. But the total labor costs are very significant, and the cost of the entire set of materials will be very considerable. But on the other hand, both the insulating qualities and the effectiveness of protecting the walls from various external influences in this case are significantly higher.

• , from the premises.

This approach to thermal insulation of walls causes a lot of criticism. Here - and a significant loss of living space, and the difficulty in creating a full-fledged insulated layer without "cold bridges" - they usually remain in the area where the walls adjoin the floors and ceilings, and the violation of the optimal balance of humidity and temperature in such a "pie".

Of course, the location of thermal insulation on the inner surface sometimes becomes almost the only accessible way insulate the walls, but whenever possible, it is still worth giving preference to external insulation.

Is it worth it to insulate the walls from the inside?

All the shortcomings and, without exaggeration, the dangers are described in great detail in a special publication of our portal.

• Wall insulation by creating a "sandwich structure" »

Typically, this technology of insulation of external walls is used even during the construction of the building. Several different approaches can also be used here.

A. The walls are laid out according to the “well” principle, and as they are raised into the resulting cavity, dry or liquid (foaming and solidifying) is poured thermal insulator. This method has been used by architects for a long time, when natural materials were used for insulation - dry leaves and needles, sawdust, discarded wool residues, etc. Nowadays, of course, special thermal insulation materials adapted for such use are more often used.

Alternatively, large walls can be used for masonry walls. with large cavities during construction, they are immediately filled with heat-insulating material (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite sand, etc.)

B. We will omit another option both during the initial construction of the house, and, if necessary, create thermal insulation in the already erected earlier building. The bottom line is that the main wall is insulated with one or another material, which is then closed with brickwork in one or ½ bricks.

Usually, in such cases, the external masonry is done "for jointing" and becomes the finishing cladding of the facade.

A significant drawback of this method, if you have to perform such insulation in an already erected house, is that it is necessary to expand and strengthen the foundation, since the wall thickness becomes significantly larger, and the load from additional brick masonry will increase noticeably.

V. An insulated multilayer structure is also obtained when using polystyrene fixed formwork for the construction of walls.

The blocks of such polystyrene formwork are somewhat reminiscent of the well-known children's designer "LEGO" - they have spikes and grooves for quick assembly of the wall structure, into which, as it rises, a reinforcing belt is installed and concrete mortar is poured. The result is reinforced concrete walls, immediately having two - outer and inner, insulating layers. Then, on the front side of the wall, you can make thin brickwork, tile lining or just a plaster coating. Almost all types of finishes are also applicable inside.

This technology is gaining popularity, although, in fairness, it should be noted that she has a lot of opponents. The main arguments are the shortcomings of expanded polystyrene in terms of environmental and fire safety. There are certain problems with the vapor permeability of the walls and the shift of the dew point towards the premises due to the layer of internal insulation. But apparently everyone agrees that the walls really get reliable thermal insulation.

What requirements should the insulation of external walls still meet?

It is clear that the thermal insulation layer on the wall should first of all reduce the heat loss of the building to an acceptable minimum. But, performing its main function, it should not allow negative moments - a threat to the health of people living in the house, increased fire hazard, the spread of pathogenic microflora, dampening of structures with the onset of destructive processes in wall material etc .

So, from the point of view of environmental safety, synthetic-based heaters raise a lot of questions. If you read the brochures of manufacturers, you can almost always find assurances about the absence of any kind of threat. Nevertheless, practice shows that most foamed polymers tend to decompose over time, and decomposition products are not always harmless.

The situation with flammability looks even more alarming - a low flammability class (G1 or G2) does not at all indicate the complete safety of the material. But more often, it’s not even the transfer of an open flame that is terrible (modern materials are mostly damped), but combustion products. The sad story shows that it is toxic smoke poisoning resulting from the combustion of, for example, polystyrene foam that most often causes human casualties. And you should think carefully about what the owner risks by arranging, for example, such thermal insulation indoors.

A terrible picture - burning of the insulated facade

The specific advantages and disadvantages of the main thermal insulation materials will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding section of the article.

The next important factor that must be taken into account when planning insulation. The thermal insulation of the walls should bring the “dew point” as close as possible to the outer surface of the wall, and ideally to the outer layer of the insulation material.

The “dew point” is a non-linearly changing boundary in the wall “pie”, at which the transition of water from one state of aggregation to another takes place - steam turns into liquid condensate. And the accumulation of moisture is the wetting of the walls, the destruction of the building material, the swelling and loss of the qualities of the insulation, a direct path to the formation and development of foci of mold or fungus, insect nests, etc.

Where does water vapor come from in the wall? Yes, it's very simple - even in the course of normal life, a person with breathing releases at least 100 g of moisture per hour. Add here wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, bathing or showering, cooking or simply boiling water. It turns out that in the cold season, the saturated vapor pressure in the room is always much higher than in outdoors. And if measures are not taken in the house for effective air ventilation, moisture seeks its way through building structures, including through walls.

This is a completely normal process., which will not do any harm if the insulation is planned and implemented correctly. But in cases where the "dew point" is shifted towards the rooms ( this is a common defect wall insulation from the inside), the balance with may be disturbed, and the wall with insulation will begin to be saturated with moisture.

In order to minimize or completely eliminate the consequences of the formation of condensate, one should adhere to the rule - the vapor permeability of the wall "pie", ideally, should increase from layer to layer in the direction of their placement outside. Then, with natural evaporation, excess moisture will come out into the atmosphere.

For example, the table below shows the values steam-permeable the ability of the main building, insulation and finishing materials. This should help with the initial planning of thermal insulation.

Material	Vapor permeability coefficient, mg/(m*h*Pa)
Reinforced concrete	0.03
Concrete	0.03
Cement-sand mortar (or plaster)	0.09
Cement-sand-lime mortar (or plaster)	0,098
Lime-sand mortar with lime (or plaster)	0.12
Expanded clay concrete, density 800 kg/m3	0.19
Clay brick, masonry	0.11
Brick, silicate, masonry	0.11
Hollow ceramic brick (1400 kg/m3 gross)	0.14
Hollow ceramic brick (1000 kg/m3 gross)	0.17
Large format ceramic block (warm ceramic)	0.14
Foam concrete and aerated concrete, density 800 kg/m3	0.140
Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs, 500-450 kg/m3	0,11
Arbolit, 600 kg/m3	0.18
Granite, gneiss, basalt	0,008
Marble	0,008
Limestone, 1600 kg/m3	0.09
Limestone, 1400 kg/m3	0.11
Pine, spruce across the grain	0.06
Pine, spruce along the grain	0.32
Oak across the grain	0.05
Oak along the grain	0.3
Plywood	0.02
Chipboard and fiberboard, 600 kg/m3	0.13
Tow	0.49
Drywall	0,075
Gypsum slabs (gypsum boards), 1350 kg/m3	0,098
Gypsum slabs (gypsum boards), 1100 kg/m3	0.11
Mineral wool stone, depending on the density 0.3 ÷ 0.37	0.3 ÷ 0.37
Mineral wool glass, depending on the density	0.5 ÷ 0.54
Expanded polystyrene extruded (EPPS, XPS)	0,005 ; 0,013; 0,004
Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic), plate, density from 10 to 38 kg/m3	0.05
Cellulose ecowool (depending on density)	0.30 ÷ 0.67
Polyurethane foam, at any density	0.05
Expanded clay bulk - gravel, depending on density	0.21 ÷ 0.27
Sand	0.17
Bitumen	0,008
Ruberoid, glassine	0 - 0,001
Polyethylene	0.00002 (virtually impenetrable)
Linoleum PVC	2E-3
Steel	0
Aluminum	0
Copper	0
Glass	0
Block foam glass	0 (rarely 0.02)
Bulk foam glass	0.02 ÷ 0.03
Bulk foam glass, density 200 kg/m3	0.03
Glazed ceramic tile (tile)	≈ 0
OSB (OSB-3, OSB-4)	0,0033-0,0040

For example, let's look at the diagram:

1 - the main wall of the building;

2 - layer of thermal insulation material;

3 - a layer of exterior decoration of the facade.

Blue wide arrows - the direction of diffusion of water vapor from the room towards the street.

On a fragment "a" shown to a mill that is very likely to always remain raw. The vapor permeability of the materials used decreases in the direction of the street, and the free diffusion of vapor will be very limited, if not stopped at all.

Fragment "b"- insulated and finished wall, in which the principle of increase is observed steam-permeable the ability of the layers - excess moisture evaporates freely into the atmosphere.

Of course, not in all cases, for one reason or another, it is possible to achieve such ideal conditions. In such situations, it is necessary to try to provide for the release of moisture to the maximum extent, but what if exterior finish walls are planned with a material whose vapor permeability is close to zero, then it would be best to mount the so-called "ventilated facade"(pos. 4 on the fragment "v"), which was already mentioned in the article.

If thermal insulation is installed from impermeable pairs materials, the situation is more complicated. It will be necessary to provide for a reliable vapor barrier, which will eliminate or minimize the likelihood of vapors entering the wall structure from inside the room (some heaters themselves are a reliable barrier to vapor penetration). And yet, it is unlikely that it will be possible to fully prevent the "preservation" of moisture in the wall.

Natural questions may arise - what about in the summer, when the pressure of water vapor on the street often exceeds the same indicators inside the house? Will there be back diffusion?

Yes, there will be such a process to a certain extent, but there is no need to be afraid of this - in conditions of elevated summer temperatures, moisture actively evaporates, and the wall cannot be saturated with water. When the moisture balance is normalized, the wall structure will return to its normal dry state. And temporarily high humidity does not pose a particular threat - it is more dangerous at low temperatures and freezing of the walls - that's when condensation reaches a peak. In addition, in the summer, windows or vents are constantly open in most houses, and there simply will not be any significant vapor pressure drop for abundant back diffusion.

In any case, no matter how high-quality the thermal insulation is, and no matter how optimally it is located, the most effective measure to normalize the moisture balance is effective ventilation of the premises. That outlet, which is located in the kitchen or in the bathroom, will not cope with such a task on its own!

It is interesting that the issue of ventilation began to be raised with such acuteness relatively recently - with the start of mass installation by apartment owners of metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows and doors with hermetic seals around the perimeter. In the houses of the old building, wooden windows and doors were a kind of "ventilation duct", and, together with vents, to some extent coped with the task of air exchange.

Ventilation issues - special attention!

Obvious signs of insufficient ventilation in the apartment are abundant condensation on the windows and damp spots in the corners window slopes. and how to deal with it - in a separate publication of our portal.

What materials are used to insulate external walls

Now let's move on to, in fact, the consideration of the main materials that are used to insulate the external walls of the house. The main technical and operational parameters will, as a rule, be presented in the form of tables. And the attention in the text will be focused on the features of the material in terms of its use in this particular area.

Bulk materials

To insulate walls, under certain conditions, materials can be used that fill the cavities inside the wall structure, or they are used to create light solutions with thermal insulation qualities.

Expanded clay

Of all the materials of this type, expanded clay is the most famous. It is obtained by special preparation of special types of clay and subsequent firing of clay pellets at temperatures above 1100 degrees. Such a thermal effect leads to the phenomenon of pyroplasty - an avalanche-like gas formation due to the water present in the raw material and the decomposition products of the components. The result is a porous structure that provides good thermal insulation properties, and clay sintering gives the granules high surface strength.

After receiving the finished product, it is sorted by size - fractions. Each of the fractions has its own bulk density and, accordingly, thermal conductivity.

Material parameters	Expanded clay gravel 20 ÷ 40 mm	Expanded clay crushed stone 5 ÷ 10 mm	Expanded clay sand or sand-gravel mixture 0 ÷ 10 mm
Bulk density, kg/m³	240 ÷ 450	400 ÷ 500	500 ÷ 800
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°С	0.07 ÷ 0.09	0.09 ÷ 0.11	0.12 ÷ 0.16
Water absorption, % of volume	10 ÷ 15	15 ÷ 20	no more than 25
Weight loss, %, during freezing cycles (with standard frost resistance grade F15)	no more than 8	no more than 8	not regulated

What are the advantages of expanded clay as an insulating material:

• Ceramite is highly environmentally friendly - no chemical compounds are used in its manufacture .
• An important quality is the fire resistance of the material. It does not burn itself, does not spread flame, and when exposed to high temperatures does not emit substances harmful to human health .
• Expanded clay will never become a breeding ground for any life forms, and besides, it is bypassed by insects .
• Despite the hygroscopicity, the processes of decay in the material will not develop .
• Material prices are quite reasonable, affordable for most consumers.

Among the shortcomings, the following can be noted:

• High-quality insulation will require a sufficiently thick
• Wall insulation is possible only by creating a multilayer structure with cavities inside or by using large hollow blocks in the construction. Warming the walls of a previously built house in this way - uh This is a very large-scale and costly undertaking, which is unlikely to be profitable.

Expanded clay is poured into the cavity in a dry form or poured in the form of a light concrete mortar ( expanded clay concrete).

Expanded clay prices

Expanded clay

Vermiculite

A very interesting and promising insulation material is vermiculite. It is obtained by heat treatment of a special rock - hydromica. The high moisture content in the raw material leads to the effect of pyroplasty, the material rapidly increases in volume (swells), forming porous and layered granules of various fractions.

Such a structural structure predetermines high rates of resistance to heat transfer. The main characteristics of the material are given in the table:

Parameters	Units	Characteristic
Density	kg/m³	65 ÷ 150
Coefficient of thermal conductivity	W/m ×° K	0.048 ÷ 0.06
Melting temperature	°C	1350
Thermal expansion coefficient		0,000014
Toxicity		non-toxic
Color		Silver, golden, yellow
Application temperature	°C	-260 to +1200
Sound absorption coefficient (at a sound frequency of 1000 Hz)		0.7 ÷ 0.8

Along with a lot of advantages, vermiculite has one very significant drawback - the price is too high. So, one cubic meter of dry material can cost 7 or more thousand rubles (you can find offers that exceed even 10 thousand). Naturally, using it in its pure form for backfilling in a cavity is extremely ruinous. Therefore, the optimal solution is to use vermiculite as a component in the manufacture of "warm plaster".

Often, for high-quality thermal insulation, it is enough " warm plaster»

Such a plaster layer gives the walls good thermal insulation qualities, and in some cases such insulation will even be quite enough.

By the way, the material has a high vapor permeability, so these can be used on any wall surfaces with virtually no restrictions.

They are also applicable to interior decoration. So, warm plasters with vermiculite can be prepared both on the basis of cement and on the basis of gypsum - depending on the specific conditions of their use. Moreover, such a wall covering will also give them increased fire resistance - even a wooden wall covered with vermiculite plaster will be able to withstand the “pressure” of an open flame for a certain time.

Another material obtained by heat treatment of rock. The raw material in this case is perlite - volcanic glass. When exposed high temperatures particles of this rock swell, porous, forming extremely light porous sand with specific gravity only about 50 kg/m³.

low density and gas content perlite sand - what is required for effective thermal insulation. The main properties of the material, depending on the brand in terms of bulk density, are given in the table;

The name of indicators	Grade of sand by bulk density
	75	100	150	200
Bulk density, kg/m3	Up to 75 inclusive	Over 75 and up to 100 inclusive	Over 100 and up to 150 inclusive	Over 150 and up to 200 inclusive
Thermal conductivity at a temperature of (20 ± 5) °С, W/m × °С, not more than	0,047	0,051	0,058	0,07
Humidity, % by mass, no more	2, 0	2	2.0	2.0
Compressive strength in the cylinder (determined by fraction 1.3-2.5mm), MPa (kgf/cm2), not less than	Not standardized			0.1

This material is also popular due to its relatively low price, which cannot be compared with the same vermiculite. True, both technological and operational qualities are worse here.

One of the disadvantages of perlite when used dry is the extremely high moisture absorption- No wonder it is often used as an adsorbent. The second drawback is that extremely fine fractions, almost powder, are always present in the composition of the sand, and working with the material, especially in open conditions, even with a very weak breeze - it is extremely difficult. However, there will be enough trouble indoors, as it forms a lot of dust.

A common area of ​​application for perlite sand is the manufacture of light concrete solutions with thermal insulation properties. Another typical use is the mixing of masonry compounds. The use of such solutions when laying walls minimizes the effect of cold bridges along the seams between bricks or blocks.

Expanded perlite sand is also used in the production of ready-made dry mixes - “warm plasters”. These building and finishing compounds are rapidly gaining popularity, since at the same time as adding additional insulation to the walls, they immediately perform a decorative function.

Video - Review of "warm plaster" THERMOVER

Mineral wool

Of all the insulation materials used, mineral wool is likely to take first place in the "availability - quality" category. It cannot be said that the material is devoid of flaws - there are many of them, but for thermal insulation of walls it often becomes the best option.

In residential construction, as a rule, two types of mineral wool are used - glass wool and basalt (stone). Their comparative characteristics are indicated in the table, and a more detailed description of the advantages and disadvantages follows it.

Name of parameters		Stone (basalt) wool
Limiting application temperature, °С	from -60 to +450	up to 1000°
Average fiber diameter, µm	5 to 15	4 to 12
Hygroscopicity of the material for 24 hours (no more),%	1.7	0,095
causticity	Yes	No
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m × ° K)	0.038 ÷ 0.046	0.035 ÷ 0.042
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.8 to 92	from 0.75 to 95
The presence of a binder, %	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Emission of harmful substances during combustion	Yes	Yes
Heat capacity, J/kg ×° K	1050	1050
Vibration resistance	No	moderate
Elasticity, %	there is no data	75
Sintering temperature, °C	350 ÷ 450	600
Fiber length, mm	15 ÷ 50	16
Chemical stability (weight loss), % in water	6.2	4.5
Chemical resistance (weight loss), % in alkaline medium	6	6.4
Chemical resistance (weight loss), % in acid environment	38.9	24

This material is obtained from quartz sand and cullet. The raw material is melted, and thin and rather long fibers are formed from this semi-liquid mass. Next, comes the molding of canvases, mats or blocks different density(from 10 to 30 kg / m³), ​​and in this form glass wool is supplied to the consumer.

• it is very plastic, and when packing it is easily subjected to compression to small volumes - this simplifies both the transportation and delivery of the material to the place of work. After unpacking, the mats or blocks are straightened to the intended dimensions. Low density and, accordingly, low weight - this is ease of installation, no need to strengthen walls or ceilings - additional load on them will be insignificant .
• not afraid of chemical exposure, it does not rot and does not fade. She is not particularly “liked” by rodents, she will not become a nutrient medium for home microflora .
• Glass wool is conveniently placed between the guides of the frame, and the elasticity of the material opens up the possibility of thermal insulation of complex, including curved surfaces. .
• The abundance of raw materials and the relative ease of manufacture of glass wool make this material one of the most affordable in terms of cost.

Disadvantages of glass wool:

• The fibers of the material are long, thin and brittle, and, as is typical of any glass, have sharp cutting edges. Of course, they will not be able to cause a cut, but they can cause persistent skin irritation. Even more dangerous is the ingress of these small fragments into the eyes, mucous membranes or Airways. When working with such mineral wool, compliance with the rules of increased safety is required - protection of the skin of the hands and face, eyes, respiratory organs .

The very high probability of fine glass dust getting into the room, where it can be carried in a suspended state with air currents, makes the use of glass wool for interior work very undesirable.

• absorbs water quite strongly and, being saturated with moisture, partially loses its insulating qualities. It is mandatory to provide either a hydro-vapor barrier of the insulation, or the possibility of its free ventilation .
• Over time, glass wool fibers can sinter, stick together - nothing unusual, since glass is an amorphous material. Mats become thinner and denser, lose their thermal insulation properties .
• Formaldehyde resins are used as a binding material that holds thin fibers in a single mass. No matter how manufacturers assure the complete environmental safety of their products, the release of free formaldehyde, which is extremely harmful to human health, is constant, throughout the entire period of operation of the material.

Of course, there are certain standards of sanitary compliance, and conscientious manufacturers try to adhere to them. On the quality material there must be appropriate certificates - it will never be superfluous to require them to be presented. But still, the presence of formaldehyde is another reason not to use glass wool indoors.

Basalt wool

This insulation is made from the melt of rocks of the basalt group - hence the name "stone wool". After the fibers are drawn, they are formed into mats, creating a chaotic rather than layered structure. After processing, blocks and mats are additionally pressed under certain thermal conditions. This predetermines the density and clear "geometry" of manufactured products.

• Even on appearance basalt wool looks denser. Its structure, especially in high-density grades, is sometimes even closer to felt. But the increased density does not at all mean a decrease in thermal insulation qualities - basalt wool is not inferior to glass wool in this, and often even surpasses it. .
• The situation with hygroscopicity is much better. Some brands of basalt wool, due to special processing, are even close to hydrophobicity .
• Clear the shapes of the blocks and panels make the installation of such mineral wool a fairly simple task. If necessary, the material can be easily cut to the desired size. True, it will be difficult to work with it on surfaces of complex configuration. .
• At stone wool- excellent vapor permeability, and with proper installation of thermal insulation, the wall will remain "breathing".
• The density of basalt mineral wool blocks makes it possible to mount it on building glue, ensuring maximum adhesion to the insulated surface - this is extremely important for high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, on such wool, you can immediately, after reinforcement, lay a plaster layer .

• Basalt wool fibers are not so brittle and prickly, and it is much easier to work with it in this regard. True, security measures are still superfluous.

The disadvantages include:

• Although basalt insulation, of course, will not become a breeding ground for rodents, nor do they arrange their nests in it with great pleasure.
• There is no escape from the presence of formaldehyde - everything is exactly the same as in glass wool, maybe - to a slightly lesser extent.
• The cost of such a heater is significantly higher than glass wool.

Video - Useful information about basalt mineral wool " TechnoNIKOL»

What is the conclusion? Both mineral wools are quite suitable for thermal insulation of walls, if all conditions are met so that it is not actively saturated with moisture and has the ability to “ventilate”. The optimal location for it is outer side walls where she will create effective insulation and will not cause much harm to people living in the house.

The use of mineral wool for internal insulation should, if possible, be avoided.

It can be noted that there is another type of mineral wool - slag. But it was deliberately not included in detailed overview, since it is of little use for warming a residential building. Of all types, it is most prone to moisture absorption and shrinkage. The high residual acidity of slag wool leads to the activation of corrosion processes in the materials covered with it. Yes, and the purity of the feedstock - blast-furnace slag, also raises a lot of doubts.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Heaters of the polystyrene group

Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene can also be categorized as the most commonly used. But if you look closely at them, then they will cause a lot of questions.

Expanded polystyrene is represented by two main types. The first one is unpressed expanded polystyrene, which is more often called polystyrene foam (PBS). The second is a more modern version, the material obtained by extrusion technology (EPS). To begin with - a comparative table of materials.

Material parameters	Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)	Styrofoam
Thermal conductivity coefficient (W/m × ° C)	0.028 ÷ 0.034	0.036 ÷ 0.050
Water absorption in 24 hours in % of volume	0.2	0.4
Static bending strength MPa (kg/cm²)	0.4÷1	0.07 ÷ 0.20
Compressive strength 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf/cm²)	0.25 ÷ 0.5	0.05 ÷ 0.2
Density (kg/m³)	28 ÷ 45	15 ÷ 35
Operating temperatures	-50 to +75

Styrofoam

It would seem that the familiar white foam plastic is an excellent material for wall insulation. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, light and fairly strong blocks of clear shapes, ease of installation, a wide range of thicknesses, reasonable price - all this undeniable merits which attract many consumers.

The most controversial material is foam

However, before deciding to insulate the walls with foam, you need to think very carefully and assess the dangers of such an approach. There are many reasons for this:

• Coefficient T The thermal conductivity of polystyrene is really “enviable”. But this is only in the original dry state. The very structure of the foam - air-filled balls glued together, suggest the possibility of significant moisture absorption. So, if you immerse a piece of foam in water for a certain time, then it can absorb 300 or more% of water about its mass. Of course, thermal insulation qualities are sharply reduced. .

And with all this, the vapor permeability of PBS is low, and the walls insulated with it will not have normal vapor exchange.

• You should not believe that polystyrene is a very durable insulation. The practice of its use shows that after a few years, destructive processes begin - the appearance of shells, cavities, cracks, an increase in density and a decrease in volume. Laboratory studies of fragments damaged by such a kind of "corrosion" showed that the total resistance to heat transfer decreased by almost eight times! Is it worth it to start such insulation, which will have to be changed after 5 - 7 years?
• Styrofoam cannot be called safe from a sanitary point of view. This material belongs to the group of equilibrium polymers, which even in favorable conditions can go through depolymerization - decomposition into components. At the same time, free styrene is released into the atmosphere - a substance that poses a danger to human health. Exceeding the maximum allowable concentration of styrene causes heart failure, affects the state of the liver, leads to the emergence and development of gynecological diseases.

This depolymerization process is activated as temperature and humidity increase. So using foam for indoor insulation is an extremely risky business.

• And, finally, the main danger is the instability of the material to fire. It is impossible to call polystyrene a non-combustible material; under certain conditions, it actively burns with the release of extremely toxic smoke. Even a few breaths can lead to thermal and chemical burns of the respiratory system, toxic damage to the nervous system and death. Unfortunately, there is a lot of sad evidence for this.

It is for this reason that foam plastic has long been no longer used in the production of railway cars and other vehicles. In many countries, it is simply prohibited in construction, and in any form - conventional insulation boards, sandwich panels or even fixed formwork. A house insulated with polystyrene can turn into a "fire trap" with almost zero chances of saving the people remaining in it.

Extruded polystyrene foam

A number of shortcomings of foam have been eliminated by the development of more modern variety polystyrene foam. It is obtained by a complete melt of the feedstock with the addition of certain components, followed by foaming of the mass and forcing through molding nozzles. The result is a finely porous homogeneous structure, with each air bubble completely isolated from the neighboring ones.

This material is characterized by increased mechanical strength for compression and bending, which significantly expands the scope of its application. The thermal insulation qualities are much higher than those of polystyrene, plus, XPS practically does not absorb moisture, and its thermal conductivity does not change.

The use of carbon dioxide or inert gases as a blowing agent dramatically reduces the possibility of ignition under the action of a flame. However, it is still not necessary to talk about complete security in this matter.

Such polystyrene foam has greater chemical stability, to a lesser extent "poisons the atmosphere." Its service life is estimated at several decades.

XPS is practically impervious to water vapor and moisture. This is not a very good quality for walls. True, with some caution it can be used for internal insulation - in this case, with proper installation, it simply will not allow the penetration of saturated vapors to the wall structure. If the EPS is mounted outside, then this should be done on adhesive composition so as not to leave a gap between it and the wall, and to perform the outer cladding according to the principle of a ventilated facade.

The material is actively used for thermal insulation of loaded structures. It is perfect for insulating a foundation or basement - strength will help to cope with the load of the soil, and water resistance in such conditions is generally an invaluable advantage.

Foundation t requires insulation!

Many people forget about this, and for some it even seems like some kind of whim. Why, and how to do it using EPPS - in a special publication of the portal.

But there is no escape from the general chemical composition, and it was not possible to get rid of the highest toxicity during combustion. Therefore, all warnings regarding the danger of expanded polystyrene in case of fire fully apply to XPS.

Prices for expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, PIR plates

Expanded polystyrene, Styrofoam, PIR boards

polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of walls by spraying (PPU) is considered one of the most promising areas in construction. In terms of its thermal insulation properties, PPU significantly surpasses most other materials. Even a very small layer of 20 — 30 mm m can give a tangible effect.

Material characteristics	Indicators
compressive strength (N/mm²)	0.18
Bending strength (N/mm²)	0.59
Water absorption (% volume)	1
Thermal conductivity (W/m ×°K)	0,019-0,035
Content of closed cells (%)	96
blowing agent	CO2
Flammability class	B2
Fire resistance class	G2
Application temperature from	+10
Application temperature from	-150oС to +220oС
Application area	Heat-hydro-cold-insulation of residential and industrial buildings, containers, ships, wagons
Effective service life	30-50 years old
Moisture, aggressive media	sustainable
Ecological cleanliness	Safe. Approved for use in residential buildings. Used in the manufacture of food refrigerators
Pour Time (seconds)	25-75
Water vapor permeability (%)	0.1
Cellularity	closed
Density (kg/m3)	40-120

Polyurethane foam is formed by mixing several components - as a result of the interaction between each other and with atmospheric oxygen, foaming of the material occurs, its increase in volume. The applied PPU quickly hardens, forming a durable waterproof shell. The highest adhesion rates allow spraying on almost any surface. Foam fills even minor cracks and depressions, creating a monolithic seamless "fur coat".

By themselves, the original components are quite toxic, and working with them requires increased precautions. However, after the reaction and subsequent solidification, within a few days, all dangerous substances completely evaporate, and PPU will no longer pose any danger.

It has a fairly high resistance to fire. Even with thermal decomposition, it does not release products that can cause toxic damage. For these reasons, it was he who replaced expanded polystyrene in mechanical engineering and in the production of household appliances.

It would seem - an ideal option, but again the problem rests on the complete lack of vapor permeability. So, for example, spraying polyurethane foam on a natural wood wall can “kill” it for several years already - moisture that has no way out will inevitably lead to organic decomposition processes. But getting rid of the applied layer will be almost impossible. In any case, if PPU spraying is used for insulation, the requirements for effective ventilation of the premises increase.

Among the shortcomings, one more circumstance can be noted - in the process of applying the material it is impossible to achieve evenness of the surface. This will create certain problems if a contact finish is planned on top - plaster, cladding, etc. Leveling the surface of the cured foam to the required level is a difficult and time-consuming task.

And another conditional drawback of PPU wall insulation is the impossibility of independently carrying out such work. It definitely requires special equipment and equipment, sustainable technological skills. In any case, you will have to resort to calling a team of specialists. The material itself is not cheap, plus the production of work - in total, very serious costs can turn out.

Video - An example of spraying polyurethane foam on the exterior walls of a house

Ecowool

Many have not even heard of this insulation and do not consider it as an option for thermal insulation of external walls. And absolutely in vain! In a number of positions, ecowool is ahead of other materials, becoming almost ideal solution Problems.

Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers - woodworking waste and waste paper are used. Raw materials undergo high-quality pre-treatment - flame retardants for fire resistance and boric acid - to give the material pronounced antiseptic qualities.

Specifications	Parameter values
Compound	cellulose, mineral antipyretic and antiseptic
Density, kg / m³	35 ÷ 75
Thermal conductivity, W/m×°K	0.032 ÷ 0.041
Vapor permeability	the walls "breathe"
fire safety	flame retardant, no smoke formation, combustion products are harmless
Filling the voids	fills all the gaps

Ecowool is usually applied to the walls by spraying - for this, in a special installation, the material is mixed with the adhesive mass, and then enters the sprayer under pressure. As a result, a coating is formed on the walls, which has very decent indicators of resistance to heat transfer. Ecowool can be applied in several layers, achieving the required thickness. The process itself is very fast. At the same time, a certain protective equipment are certainly needed, but they are not as “categorical” as, say, when working with glass wool or when spraying polyurethane foam.

By itself, ecowool does not pose a danger to people. Boric acid, which is part of it, can cause skin irritation only with prolonged direct contact. But on the other hand, it becomes an insurmountable barrier to mold or fungus, to the appearance of nests of insects or rodents.

Ecowool has excellent vapor permeability, "preservation" in the walls will not occur. True, the material is quite hygroscopic, and requires reliable protection from direct water ingress - for this it must be covered with a diffuse membrane.

Ecowool is also used according to the “dry” technology - it is poured into the cavity of building structures. True, experts note that in this case it will have a tendency to caking and loss in volume and insulating qualities. For walls, spraying is still the best choice.

What can be said about the shortcomings?

• The surface insulated with ecowool cannot be immediately plastered or painted - it is required to be obligatory on top with one or another material.
• Applying ecowool by spraying will require special equipment. The material itself is quite inexpensive, but with the involvement of specialists, the cost of such insulation will increase.

Video - Wall insulation with ecowool

In the aggregate of all its positive and negative qualities, ecowool is seen as the most promising option for insulating external walls.

What thickness of insulation is required?

If the owners of the house have decided on a heater, then it's time to find out what thickness of thermal insulation will be optimal. Too thin a layer will not be able to eliminate significant heat loss. Too thick - not very useful for the building itself, and will entail unnecessary costs.

The calculation method with an acceptable simplification can be expressed by the following formula:

Rsum= R1+ R2+ … + Rn

Rsum- total resistance to heat transfer of a multilayer wall structure. This parameter is calculated for each region. There are special tables, but you can use the diagram below. In our case, the upper value is taken - for the walls.

Resistance value Rn- this is the ratio of the thickness of the layer to the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which it is made.

Rn= δn/ λn

δn is the layer thickness in meters.

λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity.

As a result, the formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation appears as follows:

δut= (Rsum– 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2– … – δn/ λn) × λut

0,16 - this is an average accounting of thermal air resistance on both sides of the wall.

Knowing the parameters of the wall, measuring the thickness of the layers and taking into account the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation, it is easy to carry out independent calculations. BUT, to make it easier for the reader, a special calculator is placed below, in which this formula is already incorporated.