A wooden house in a "rural" area looks as natural and attractive as a brick house in a city. Especially when the material for the walls is a rounded log. But a log is not cheap, and a lot of time must pass for the house to shrink and Finishing work... Therefore, other materials and technologies are often used. And in order to create a reliable imitation of a log house, they choose a house block for exterior decoration of the house.

House block as a type of facade lining

According to its purpose, method of fastening and connection, the house block is a kind of "lining".

In fact, the production technology can be imagined as cutting a bar out of a rounded log, as a result of which four slabs with a regular spherical surface will remain - they serve as a blank for a block house. It remains only to cut a spike along one side length, on the other - to cut off and cut a groove. And of course on seamy side grooves must be made to relieve internal stress in the wood.

In addition to the above, there is a manufacturing technology from "standard" sawn timber - boards or beams. But in view of a large number waste, its cost will be higher than that of the traditional one.

Such a cutter is used to cut a house block from a bar or board.

If we talk about the grade, then there are no domestic standards for this type of sawn timber. But in practice, manufacturers have developed their own classification, according to which there are three "pure" options and two "mixed".

The "clean" options are A, B, C.

Grade “A” differs from “B” in the number of healthy knots per 1 m, their admissible diameter (15 mm versus 20 mm) and the absence of “black” knots and cracks. For grade "B" small and short cracks are allowed, plus a small amount of "black", but not falling out knots.

Grades "C" and "BC" are not used for decorating houses, they are suitable for building fences or decorating outbuildings somewhere in the backyard.

Sheathing board is just lumber - the quality requirements are the same as for other jobs

For the exterior cladding of a house with a house block, panels with a thickness of at least 30 mm are taken. And due to the peculiarities of massive sawn timber, it is almost impossible to find a "perfectly" clean house block 4-6 m long, therefore a "mixed" grade "AB" appeared. In addition, even when storing sawn timber, small defects in the form of shallow cracks may appear.

Sometimes there is another classification borrowed from European manufacturers: "Extra" ("Prima"), "A" "B" "C". If we draw parallels, then "Extra" will be the "pure" grade "A".

With such a length, it is impossible to find a panel "without a knot and a hitch", and for cladding the facade it is not necessary

Advice! Since there are no standards for a block house, manufacturers are free to assign any sort of product to their products. Therefore, when buying, you need to make sure that the declared quality meets your requirements.

Wood selection criteria

Even the vinyl siding "Block House" has certain characteristics, testifying to the quality of the facade panels. Wood is a "thinner" material, and in many respects from the right choice durability depends exterior cladding... Therefore, it is not enough to evaluate the conformity of the variety - the density, resistance to moisture and strength of the wood are important.

Only conifers are used to decorate the house with a block house. Hardwoods (linden, oak, ash) are used for interior cladding walls.

Larch is considered an elite material and its qualities a priori correspond to the operating conditions on outdoors: high humidity and the effects of precipitation. The density and strength of Russian larch, like that of the northern tree species (it still grows in Siberia), will also be at a high level.

Larch has a dense and durable wood, so it is not in vain that it belongs to the elite conifers

With pine it is not so unambiguous. Most of all for facade decoration northern pine is suitable - its strength and density are much higher than that of wood from warm regions. And the origin of the pine block of the house is determined by the distance between the annual rings - the closer they are to each other, the better. The quality criterion is at least three rings per 1 cm of the end cut.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of finishing and insulation of houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How to choose the width

There are criteria for choosing the diameter of a rounded log, depending on the purpose and size of the house.

During construction small house seasonal residence (summer cottage, summer house) use a log with a diameter of up to 220 mm, visible part which lies in the range of 150-180 mm.

For a "full-size" heated house, the minimum diameter of the log is 240 mm, the recommended diameter is 260-280 mm. And the visible part is 190-210 mm.

To maintain the "proportions", the width of the house block must correspond to the visible part of the log:

• for a cottage - 140-150 mm (with a thickness of 28-36 mm);
• for a large house - 190 mm and above (with a thickness of 36-45 mm).

Plating options

The house block installation method is the only one - along a vertical crate with a horizontal arrangement of panels.

The lathing is needed in any case. Even when sheathed wooden house, and it is possible to mount the panels directly to the wall, a ventilation gap is required to weather the moisture (otherwise the wood will start to rot).

The issue of insulation is decided depending on the seasonality of residence and the materials of the walls. If this is a "summer" house, then the insulation is not carried out. It is also possible not to install thermal insulation materials when the house is built according to frame technology or from foam concrete blocks 40 cm thick.

Sheathing during the construction of a "skeleton", as another option for using a block house

In other cases, wall insulation is mandatory - the costs will quickly pay off due to savings on heating and air conditioning.

Installation features

Despite belonging to the lining, the methods of attachment to the crate when cladding a house with a block house are different than when carrying out internal work.

Inside, narrow modifications of panels of small thickness (up to 20-22 mm) are used, and the operating conditions are characterized by stability of humidity and temperature. Therefore, the house block can be fixed to the lathing using fasteners concealed installation- kleimers. Exterior decoration is carried out with a thick and wide sheathing board, in which, with changes in humidity, such internal stress forces arise that it can simply be pulled out of engagement.

Video description

You can clearly see the block house decoration in the video:

The second reason that does not allow the use of clamps for external cladding- the way the block house is located on the facade. The groove to which the bracket "clings" must point downward (so that moisture does not get into it). And with this orientation, the panels can be mounted on the clamps only from top to bottom.

Therefore, the outer cladding is carried out in one of two ways:

1. Open. The panel is screwed to each beam at two points - from the side of the groove and closer to the spike. Before fastening, holes are drilled into which the screws are screwed in with force so that their heads do not protrude above the surface of the panel. Then these places are putty, disguising as a small knot. This mounting method is the safest and is recommended for thick and wide house blocks.
2. Hidden. The bottom panel near the groove is attached open way, plus at the base of the thorn, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 ° into which self-tapping screws are screwed. Each next row of a house block (except for the last one) is fixed only through a thorn. The top row is fixed in an open way.

Note... Due to fluctuations in humidity, the tree changes its size across the fibers - it swells or dries out. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that during installation a small gap remains between the stop of the groove of the upper row and the spike of the lower one. If the workers miss this nuance, then over time the wall will deform.

Design features

Sheathing the facade of a house from a block house is more difficult than from imitation of a bar or planken. The reason is in the peculiarities of "bulky" lumber. Radius panels are more difficult to fit together.

The most accurate way to increase the length is considered to be "counter" washed down a block of house at an angle of 45 °.

But more often they use a simpler option - a strip in the form of a rail or board. The place for it is chosen in such a way that it looks natural and is common to all connected panels.

Strip strips and corners are the easiest way to cover joints

Corner joints are also designed in a similar way - by joining through a gash at a corner or by an overlay of two rails.

The final stage of cladding is surface sanding and coating with varnish or colorless paint.

Video description

For examples of finishing the facade with a block house, see the video:

Conclusion

As a result, based on the foregoing, it is clear that decorating a house with a block house is more complicated than any other facade panels. To be sure of the quality and durability of the cladding, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Fashion for eco-friendly and natural materials gave birth to a whole trend in interior design. Natural and pseudo-natural decorative elements are taking up an increasing share modern market finishing materials.

This is a traditional, time-tested solid wood product - lining, Wall panels, grooved board.

but modern technologies allowed to create the latest, high-tech Decoration Materials made of natural wood, including a block house. Let's take a closer look at what it is, and how the wall cladding with a block house inside the house is made.

What is a block house

The block house is appreciated for its excellent decorative qualities and environmental friendliness.

Block house is a very popular material used for exterior wall decoration. Thanks to a whole range of excellent decorative and operational qualities, it has successfully competed with all other materials used for.

By its appearance, the material imitates a rounded log or timber, giving the wall trimmed with it an expensive and very aesthetic look. Among other advantages of a block house, one can note the ease of installation and wide choose raw materials. This decorative finish can be made from a variety of wood species: from affordable and inexpensive pine to exclusive species - Karelian birch, sycamore, bog oak, etc.

Interior designers could not pass by this wonderful material either. The beauty of natural wood made it possible to add a special flavor to the interior decoration.

Inside the house, both walls and ceilings can be sheathed with block house slats, creating a unique country-style interior. However, despite all its simplicity and manufacturability, working with this material has its own characteristics.

Material selection

Use conifers for living spaces

Also resin conifers has antiseptic properties, preventing the development of pathogenic bacteria in the room.

For indoor spaces with high temperature heating (saunas, baths), it is recommended to use deciduous wood, since conifers tend to emit excess resin when heated.

For finishing the bath, the use of larch will be optimal.

You should also take into account such a factor as high humidity, therefore, wall decoration with a block house in such rooms involves the use of wood that is resistant to moisture.

However, important criterion the choice of wood species is personal preference. After all, the main purpose of finishing a wall with a block house is to create an interior pleasing to the eye, therefore, if you like the openwork texture of a Karelian birch or beech, buy just such a material.

I like something more exotic - take wenge, merbau, mahogany.

Panel size

Use thin panels for interior decoration

When choosing panels, you should also pay attention to their size. Usually the width of the lamellas ranges from 80 to 230 mm, but there may be exceptions to these rules.

Wider panels are used for finishing the facades of buildings, as inside the house they will look unnecessarily massive, creating an oppressive feeling and "eating up" the space.

As practice shows, for interior decoration it is better to take thin lamellas, 8 - 16 cm wide. The lamella thickness can be from 20 to 50 mm. The length of the slats of a block house can vary from 2 to 6 m, therefore, when choosing a material, this parameter should also be taken into account so that production waste remains as small as possible.

Narrow and long planks should be used to decorate rooms with limited space. They tend to visually expand the space, increasing the size of the room. Massive lamellas have the opposite effect, so they should not be used inside the house.

Material class

Top-class materials have a high price

In addition to the type of wood and size, the block house is also subdivided into classes depending on its quality.

It has enhanced decorative qualities, first of all, it is characterized by the almost complete absence of knots and other cosmetic defects. However, the cost of such a block of house is quite high.

The next class of material is "A" and "B". They have large quantity knots, as well as on their surface, some other defects are permissible.

The cost of such material, respectively, is much lower than that of the extra-class, but if you are not too demanding on quality, then you should pay attention to this option of the economy class. Moreover, sealing small chips or dents is not a big deal.

Calculate required amount the material is simple enough. Multiply the height of the wall by its width. Add another 10-15% to the resulting value in case of unforeseen expenses: unintentional damage to the material, etc. Also, do not forget about additional elements - corners, platbands, skirting boards, crate.

After required material selected and purchased, you can proceed with its installation. To do this, you need the following tools:

Antiseptic primer for wood

With regard to finishing materials. Then, in addition to the block house, you should purchase:

1. A bar for a frame with a cross section of 4 x 5 cm and 2.5 x 5 cm.
2. Additional decorative elements.
3. Varnish for wood.
4. Antiseptic primer.
5. Insecticide primer.
6. Stain.
7. Fire retardant primer.

Material preparation

Since wood, no matter how expensive it is, is not particularly resistant to dampness and fire, finishing and construction materials made of it must undergo additional processing. For more information on the preparatory work, see this video:

The wood is covered with antiseptic soil compounds. This protects the lamellas from the formation of mold and mildew, and also makes them more resistant to high humidity... Thus, antiseptics can significantly increase the service life of a block house, especially when it comes to premises such as a sauna, a bathroom or a bath.

Flame retardants will protect the material from the effects of fire

The next stage of processing wood panels is impregnation with fire retardants. This primer composition, impregnating wood fibers, reduces the likelihood of fire from open fire. This is especially important if the slats of the block house inside the house will be used to decorate kitchens with gas cylinders or if it is supposed to hide electrical wiring under them.

Then all wooden elements should be treated with insecticides that make them inedible for grinder beetles, various woodworm larvae, etc.

Protective primers should be treated not only by the decorative panels themselves, but also by the elements of the inner lathing.

Warming and vapor barrier

Vapor barrier protects against moisture from outside

All work on the installation of block house slats on the wall consists of several successive stages. The wall should be covered with vapor barrier material. It can be isospan or its analogs. This waterproofing has the remarkable property of keeping out dampness from the outside, while at the same time allowing it to go from the interior to the street.

Thus, isospan does not interfere with natural circulation steam and air inside the building. What cannot be said about such waterproofing materials like roofing material or polyethylene. Creating a closed space completely impervious to moisture and air, on the contrary, they contribute to the accumulation of condensate on their surface from the inside of the room, and this will certainly lead to the formation of under decorative trim mold and mildew, so it is not worth using such a "dull" waterproofing for interior walls.

After the walls are covered with steam and waterproofing, you can proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating layer. According to building regulations it is best to create a heat-insulating layer outside the building. In this case, the so-called "dew point" is shifted to the outside of the walls.

At interior decoration insulating materials, condensation may begin to collect on interior surfaces walls. However, it often happens that it is not possible to produce external insulation. Then it remains to sheathe with insulation interior walls... For this it is better to use modern varieties insulation with low thermal conductivity, for example, foil-clad penofol.

This will allow for minimum thickness create the most effective thermal insulation layer.

Installation of lathing

The next step is to start installing the lathing on the wall. Using a level, we expose the bars in a vertical plane. To do this, you can use metal suspensions, which are usually used when installing a drywall frame. For more information on the best fasteners for a block house, see this video:

The battens of the lathing should be spaced from each other at a distance of 50 - 70 cm. First, we set the timber in one level, and then in the other corner of the wall. Between them, in the upper and lower parts, we tightly pull the twine, along which we install all subsequent bars.

Installation of slats starts from the floor

After installing the lathing frame, you can start installing the panels of the block house. Their installation should start from the bottom, since the floor level may not always be perfectly level, the first panel should be mounted using a level.

The lamellas are fastened by means of self-tapping screws. This process has a number of subtleties. First of all, self-tapping screws should be tightened at an angle of 45 degrees to ensure that the panels are tightly attracted to each other.

Before tightening the self-tapping screw, a thin drill should be drilled into the lamellas through hole... This will prevent the panel from cracking, especially if it is thin and narrow enough or excessively dry.

When installing, the groove of the product should be placed down, towards the floor, and the side with the protruding spike should be up. A lamella is attached to each vertical bar of the crate. Self-tapping screws should be selected so long that after passing through a wooden panel, they enter at least 50% of the bar. For a description of the plating process, see this video:

When all panels are installed on the wall, they should be covered at the top and bottom with skirting boards that mask the joint with the floor and ceiling. After sheathing the adjacent wall with block house lamellas, the joints should also be closed with decorative corners.

Finishing

Sanding and subsequent varnishing of the block house will reveal the structure of the wood

After all the walls of the room have been sheathed decorative panels, produced finishing surface. With help grinder the entire surface of the lamellas is cleaned from all sorts of burrs and small defects.

If necessary, chips and dents can be repaired with wood putty and sanded well. Then cover the surface of the panels with wood stain or textured varnish.

This method of finishing will allow to emphasize all the advantages of wood, first of all, the beauty of its texture, as well as to give it any noble shade: even a simple pine after processing with the appropriate stain will be indistinguishable from wenge or ebony.

The final touch is to cover the surface of the panels with a fixing varnish, which will create a protective layer. As a result, the block house will become more resistant to mechanical stress, abrasion, ultraviolet radiation and moisture. For more information on how to paint wood, see this video:

For more long service material such as a wooden block house, you should be careful about caring for it. It should not be washed with large amounts of water. Also, you do not need to use aggressive household chemicals or abrasive cleaners.

It is best to use soft rags or sponges dipped in soapy water to care for it.

You have decided to update the appearance of the house and the quality decorative material chose a block house - a solution worthy of praise. You decided to choose the stripes yourself and calculate its quantity - worthy of respect. But if you, at the same time, decide to deal directly with the finishing of the building - this decision is truly admirable.

After all, a house in which energy and strength has been invested becomes not just a place of residence, but embodies the very essence of its inhabitants. So where to start editing such popular and so unfamiliar material for a layman? How to take into account all the subtleties and not regret the decision do the work yourself. Consider the process of decorating a block house in stages:

Stage 1 - material calculation

It is very simple to calculate the number of strips of a block house - just multiply the length of the surface by its width and subtract the area of ​​the door and window openings... This will give you the surface area to be coated. Multiplying the working width of the lamella by its length - you get useful area one board. By dividing the surface area by the area of ​​one board, you can calculate the number of strips needed for finishing.

Stage 2 - preparation of material and surface

The preparation of the material consists in its delivery to the installation site and keeping there for 3-4 days. This is necessary in order for the material to acquire the moisture inherent in the given area.

The preparation of the wall involves processing with a waterproofing material - such as a primer. This procedure will help prevent moisture from exposing the surface.

Stage 3 - tool

• perforator
• screwdriver, hammer or stapler
• hacksaw
• building level
• plumb line
• miter box, for sawing at an angle
• mallet

Stage 4 - preparation of the lathing

The lathing or "beacons" represent a galvanized profile, wooden strips (20x50) or planed bars (30x30, 50x50), on which the strips of the block house will be fastened. They are needed, first of all, in order to level the surface to be sheathed. Crate, like wooden wall at home, should be processed special composition, which will protect wood from pests and fungi.

Since block house strips are characterized by a horizontal method of fastening - beacons should be installed perpendicular to the direction of the main strip - i.e. vertically. The pitch of the lathing is 400-600 mm.

Use a level to stretch the line at the top of the wall. Then, using a plumb line, line up the bottom line. This will prevent the wall from collapsing.

Insulation scheme

Stage 5 - insulation

Application thermal insulation materials will allow you to keep your home comfortable and avoid unnecessary heating costs. The insulation is laid between the steps of the sheathing, as shown in the photo.

• Wall
• Lathing
• Mineral wool or fiberglass insulation
• Windproof membrane
• Second layer of lathing The second layer of lathing is needed in order to ensure natural ventilation material.

Stage 6 - assembly of the blockhouse and finishing of joints

Installation is carried out by joining strips according to the groove-comb principle. Moreover, the comb is directed upward in order to avoid moisture ingress into the groove. To achieve a tighter connection, you can tap through the block along the edge of the inserted board and additionally fix it with fasteners.

The board is fastened in several ways:

• with the help of a cleaimer - the most common method. Allows you to hide the joints and ensure complete adherence of the boards to each other;
• using a self-tapping screw is a laborious method. Requires drilling holes for self-tapping screws to avoid splitting the board;
• using a nail that is driven at an angle to the surface;
• with the help of a construction bracket - rarely used and mainly in interior decoration.

Installation is carried out along the entire perimeter of the building, because if you sheathe one wall, there is a chance that the corners will not coincide. The corners can be decorated in the ways shown in the photo.

The cladding of a house with a block house is due to a number of characteristic advantages. For example, this material is lightweight and easy to install; you can sheathe a house with a blockhouse yourself. Outwardly, it looks great, in addition, you will have the opportunity to additionally insulate the walls and make waterproofing.

Sheathing the house with a block house allows you to additionally insulate the walls and make waterproofing.

Advantages and disadvantages

The house block ensures the durability of the finish, it is durable and resistant to unfavorable conditions... It is environmentally friendly and safe to use, does not have the ability to modify. This material does not fade in the sun, he is not afraid sharp drops temperature. In addition, panels of such material are capable of quick recovery after damage. They do not make the foundation of the house heavier, prevent the appearance and development of fungi and bacteria, while maintaining the warmth of the interior of the houses (if you install heaters).

The multi-layer structure of the block house allows it to be resistant to any adverse conditions.

Facing the house with a block house makes it possible to ventilate the facade or insulate the attic. It is practical and reliable material for cladding any home. But, like all finishing materials, the house block has its drawbacks.
The main disadvantage of a block house made of wood is its flammability. This factor poses a danger to the residents of the house, so manufacturers try to treat the wood with a special solution, thereby reducing the risk of fire. Wood, as a rule, requires special care, which will add hassle to you during installation (treatment with an antiseptic, water-repellent primer is necessary). As for the metal type of this material, the blockhouse is finished with insulation due to its high thermal conductivity.

The material, the meaning of which literally translates as "blocks for the house", came from Europe. Thanks to its technical specifications and beautiful outward appearance he quickly gained popularity. Today you will find many block houses. This material is made of wood or copies natural wood species.

Some features and types of material

House cladding with a blockhouse can be done on stone, cement, brick, that is, on almost any surface. Such unique material will serve as a decoration for the facade of residential buildings. Do-it-yourself home decoration is possible, since such work does not require special skills, and it will save your budget.

House finished with wood block Hausa looks like a house made of natural wood.

There are several types of block houses: wood, metal and vinyl (made of artificial material). Each has its own individual characteristics and installation features. For example, a material called house block wood is a carefully crafted plank. On the one hand, the surface is flat, on the other - convex. A house finished with this material is similar to a house made of natural wood.

Depending on the type of wood used, the house block has different properties. So, coniferous material is resistant to rotting and mold formation due to its antiseptic properties. The cladding of the house with larch material guarantees the durability of the cladding, which will serve long years, while not losing its original appearance. House cladding with a pine blockhouse is a good choice for those who cannot afford to purchase expensive material. However, not all wood-based materials are suitable for cladding houses. A block house is not made of spruce, this material does not have sufficient strength.

Most often, industrial buildings are sheathed with a metal block with a house.

The metal blockhouse consists of steel (galvanized) and polymer coating that protects against harmful influences. Metallic coating will give the facade of the house an unusual, neat look (the color range is varied) and is much cheaper than vinyl and wood. It is used most often in industrial buildings, since metal is in no way associated with home comfort.

Blockhouse from vinyl siding is the optimal solution for all types of buildings. The vinyl material is stronger and more reliable than the real one, therefore it is most preferred. Resistant to moisture, does not require special maintenance, easy to install, does not rot and mold, this material is often used to decorate the interior and exterior of the house.

How to make a house cladding with a block house? First, you need to decide on the type of block house and prepare the surface. The installation of wood and vinyl types of material is different, so the same instructions cannot be used.

How to do the job yourself: step by step instructions

Walls made of wood must be impregnated with linseed oil to protect them from decay.

The first stage is done regardless of the type of material - this is surface preparation. The purpose of this work is to clean the walls from dirt, bumps, irregularities and other defects. Preparation is being made so that in the future there will be no problems with the destruction of the surface of the finished part of the house. Dimples and bumps are corrected with cement mortar, and to protect the surface from mold, you need to use an antiseptic primer. Saturate wood-based walls with linseed oil, which will save you from problems with decay. Now the surface is ready for block house finishing, and you can start the main part of the work.

House cladding with a blockhouse made of wood

The lathing for the house block must be installed in 50 cm steps vertically.

The whole work process is divided into 5 stages. To wall the house wood paneling, you will need:

• accessories for the lathing (bars);
• pin;
• boards: corner type and ebb;
• brush;
• antiseptic;
• level;
• sandpaper;
• hammer;
• saw;
• self-tapping screws (screws);
• electric drill and drill driver.

How to sheathe a building with a blockhouse without making mistakes? Check out the following step by step instructions and you will see that it is not difficult:

1. Make sure the surface is dry. To get rid of moisture from wood walls, you should apply a water-repellent primer. If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then use waterproofing film.
2. To fix the cladding strips, place the battens vertically in 50 cm increments. Check the correctness of the guides using a square, a level and a plumb line.
3. Holes are drilled on the panels of the wooden block of the house for fasteners.
4. The cladding process is performed on galvanized self-tapping screws. After finishing the finish, the caps from these screws are poured with building glue (waterproof) or you can use pads (sold with the material).
5. With the help of locking grooves, the work of cladding a block house is greatly facilitated.

Do-it-yourself house cladding always starts from the bottom of the surface. Compared to other types of panels, this material is fixed horizontally. The peculiarity of the blockhouse installation is that the cleats are fixed to the crate with self-tapping screws, and the 1st bar is inserted into the legs with the groove down. This must be done so that the moisture in the recesses does not heat up. In this case, a groove of the other is inserted into the spike of one board.
If self-tapping screws are used in the work, holes are drilled in the lower part of the board and the upper one. Remember that the distance between the fasteners should be no more than 40 cm. The screw is screwed into the spike of the board at an angle of 45 °.

When installing a vinyl block of a house, it is necessary to leave a spruce of 10 mm between the panels.

When installing a vinyl blockhouse, consider the weather conditions. Vinyl tends to shrink or, conversely, expand. Therefore, when laying the panels, make a small gap of about 10 mm.
One of the problems that you can face when sheathing the outside of the house is the joining of panels in its corners. There are skirting boards that hide the joints, but the house block is difficult to fit into them. The optimal solution will bend the walls of the corners, and then hide the joint with a semicircular wagon board, securing it with construction glue. Experts, however, hide the corners in the log house, making a so-called groove. All sharp corners can be hidden under the wooden batten.

Another significant nuance when working with block house panels is how to properly lay the last panel. It is necessary to cut off the excess part of it and fit it under the upper part of the house. If your ceiling is ready, then you can hide the unevenness with a baseboard. If it is to be finished, you should hide all the flaws in the installation process.

Now you know how to sheathe a house with a block house, and you can do it yourself. It doesn't take much of your time, and you don't need much construction experience. The main thing is to correctly calculate the material and arm yourself necessary tool... If everything is done correctly, the block house will not only delight you with its presentable appearance for many years, but also protect the building from the harmful effects of the environment.

At the stage of new construction or reconstruction of the operated housing stock, the owners of private houses inevitably face a choice: what to cover the facade with? The choice is huge. Every day new materials appear on the market with different characteristics... Those who set themselves the goal of performing these works on their own are looking for the best option... It may well be siding - a new word in facing technology for the production of materials. And the most famous representative of this product line is the blockhouse. As you guessed it, this material is devoted to the topic: how to sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands

Siding: American "miracle" on domestic facades

Today you can find wooden, vinyl and metal cladding from siding - an elastic, durable and reliable material. Due to the fact that it is light, does not exert a load on the foundation, the facing material is used to decorate the facades of the walls of the old building, household and utility rooms.

The most optimal coating is vinyl:

• it surpasses wood in terms of performance;
• it is cheaper than a metal analogue;
• resistant to external influence aggressive environment;
• unpretentious in maintenance, durable.

Vinyl can also be matched to any exterior color. Juicy saturated colors, thanks to the plasticizers included in the composition, do not fade. Installation work do it yourself is not difficult. The versatility of the cladding lies in the fact that with its help, without additional costs, it is possible to give a spectacular and stylish look to both new and old walls that have lost their respectable appearance.

Blockhouse siding: a new approach to cladding facade works

"Blockhouse" (or blockhouse) can be called a polymer made of acrylic, vinyl materials, metal. There is also coniferous siding, which allows you to create an imitation of natural, voluminous, graceful and massive cylindrical logs on your facade. This is one of the types of siding - rounded on one side and flat on the other blockhouse board. Structurally, each element has air cavities on the seamy side adjacent to the crate. They improve the thermal insulation of the material, relieve stress in it. At the same time, a dwelling in such an inexpensive cladding will remain environmentally friendly. The building resembling a log house will become part of the natural landscape of the area.

Installation from boards equipped with grooves on one side and with spikes on the other (reverse locking) distinguishes block house from ordinary siding, allows you to quickly and reliably fasten the elements together, eliminating the ripple effect. The cladding blockhouse can withstand significant loads, its elements are well dried, and the dimensions are unified.

Facing the facade with a blockhouse, made with your own hands

• Before sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands, using wood material for the facade, you need to "measure seven times" and calculate everything well so that the boards are fully enough for the cladding.
• Measure the outer area of ​​the wall planes, find the common perimeter of all window frames, make calculations, purchase the facing material itself and additions to it.

In a simplified form, the amount of piece material can be calculated as follows: find the total area of ​​all wall structures, from it minus the total area of ​​all doors and windows, divide the result by a value equal to the area of ​​the board. The result obtained with a margin of another 10% (trimming, scrap) will be the desired one.

• Leave the boards under a canopy on the street for several days to "acclimatize" to the temperature in which the blockhouse will be used and humidity, but not to let it get wet.
• Carefully read the instructions, without deviating from the technology, perform the work.
• Make the walls look good. Dry the surface. Prime with waterproof, fireproof and antibacterial solution. Treat log surfaces with linseed oil.
• Cover up brick or concrete masonry with a waterproofing film or apply a water-repellent impregnation. This must be done before installing the lathing frame.

When we sheathe a house with siding with our own hands, we first determine whether it is necessary to insulate the room. If this is planned, then a thermal insulation is laid between the wall and the crate mineral wool or foam. The insulation is covered with a wind barrier, overlapping, with the edges of the strips overlapping one another by 10 cm. This is the name of a protective membrane that works in one direction. By releasing the generated steam from inside the room, it does not absorb moisture from the surrounding air, leaving the insulator always dry.

• The frame for fastening the facing elements is made with a step of 0.5 m and is installed in a vertical plane on the surface to be treated. In this case, the guides should be clearly oriented in level, and the boards themselves should be mounted horizontally.
• Fastening is done by fixing the spike in the groove. Self-tapping screws can be used for these purposes. Then you still need to drill holes for them no closer than 0.45 m from one another, and after completing the work, cover the caps with sealed water-repellent glue.
• Taking into account the expansion expansion that a vinyl blockhouse undergoes when the air temperature changes, a gap of 0.1 m should be provided between the panels.
• Hard-to-machine places in the corners, where it is difficult to fit, are leveled by clapboard or a neat wooden batten.
• Particular attention is paid to the top of the wall. The last panel is fitted to the top visor and trimmed. Installation flaws are covered with a plinth.

Having an idea of ​​how to sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands, you can use metal and vinyl material. Facades of houses with them as cladding are resistant to acid rain, ultraviolet light, oil pollution. The heat-resistant, durable vinyl material has proven itself in hot climates as well as in northern regions. It remains to decide on the color. The palette of colors allows you to choose a design to your liking, which will serve for half a century without losing its qualities.

What is "good" and what is "bad": the pros and cons of a blockhouse

If you decide to sheathe your house with siding with your own hands and have chosen a blockhouse for this, you need to understand what to expect from such cladding. it universal material for every taste: a variety of colors and textures of the top layer allows for an exclusive design. In case of an accidental impact, exposure to gusts of wind, ingress of aggressive or oily substances on the facade, the integrity of the upper layer is not violated. In the event of a dent or scratch, the damaged area is painted over and sanded.

If difficult, use in wall decoration natural wood a blockhouse made of various tree species can be a profitable, cheaper alternative without compromising quality. When cladding, soundproofing, heat-saving characteristics are automatically improved.

By the way: "block house" cladding requires periodic maintenance associated with painting the top layer or opening it with varnish. This is perhaps the only drawback in its characteristics.

Important "little things" that affect the result of work

If we sheathe the house with siding with our own hands and do not know that it is necessary to install the boards with the spike up, and with the groove, on the contrary, down, then the work can be ruined "in the bud." In the "inverted" case, water can get into the groove recess, dust can settle, which will ultimately lead to damage to the panel. In this regard, for home master there are also a number of such useful little things for familiarization:

• If it is necessary to insulate the house, then the material and thickness of the walls, as well as the facing beams, between which I lay the insulation, are taken into account. The lattice elements of the frame must have the same thickness as the insulation layer.
• In addition to the mandatory expansion gaps between the laying elements, gaps should be left for free air circulation between the cladding and the ceiling.
• Blockhouse boards have different geometric parameters. Therefore, they need to be fastened with those hardware that are suitable for the length, thickness and weight of the tiles. Planks are divided into those in which the second size (width) does not exceed 0.15 m, the so-called narrow. Others (wide) with a width exceeding 0.15m. Their cost depends on the type wood material, sizes, and hence the quality of the cladding. But is it worth saving on this?
• Batches of material with the same dimensions, but made by different manufacturers, can have significant differences. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to immediately buy the full volume of the "running", often used size. The outdoor blockhouse must be wide, at least 150 mm.

• Choose nails to resist precipitation (if the board is thin). Self-tapping screws with a length of 25-35 mm are used with a board thickness exceeding 21 mm, with an anti-corrosion layer and a rubberized head. In this case, firstly, a trace of rust will not be visible on the front side of the panel; secondly, the protection will protect the hardware fasteners from destruction.
• To calculate the required number of nails (self-tapping screws), it is assumed that the fixing is 1 sq. M. boards are made with two hardware.
• You can arrange the material during installation in any way. Texture and pattern imitating wood will look better in a horizontal position. To equip a bath with condensate constantly flowing down the walls, it is better to lay the boards vertically: water will not accumulate in the expansion gaps, but flow down through them. The percentage of moisture can be reduced by organizing an inflow fresh air(aeration) with back side sheathing.