Complex molds made of drywall are needed not only on the ceiling, sometimes for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, it is necessary to think about how to make a circular wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely scarce the design. But whether plasterboard is able to withstand such tests, and how to get the desired result from direct metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, find out what it will give

First of all, perhaps, you should summarize information about such a convenient, but not particularly durable drywall. This composite material known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, and even indoors with high levels Humidity or flavors using particularly stable sheets. However, in contrast to decorative coatings that are applied with a thickness of several millimeters and immediately represent the finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which the frozen layer of plaster is concluded, finishing is required.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, the drywall is very valuable, because it is possible to make a round wall of it quite quickly, only slightly moisturizing. Today, sheets of 6, 8 thickness are produced today, and 9.5 millimeters (the most popular dimensions, but they are thicker), which begged relatively easy, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are needed in cases where you need durable base, for example, in order for the drywall niches not only decorative meaning.

From here we conclude that practically no other material can be applied, say, for curved walls or for hinged Ceilkov In the form of complex figures (especially in the latter case), neither plywood nor plastic possess the necessary margin of flexibility and durability. Brick is all the more not suitable for light designs. As for the roundness plasterboard wallsIt is necessary, first of all, in cases where it takes a slightly increase in the area of \u200b\u200bone room by removing the protrusions in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where the angle will not become. In addition, the protruding details of the planning are damaged more often.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that from you can get rounded partitions with ease, however, by observing the known degree of caution, since the material is quite brittle. But how is it to be with the frame to which the sheets need to be attached? Wooden bar disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out, the desired result is quite achievable. We will also need Minvat, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: a construction circuit and a knife, a saw-hacksaw and saw Bulgarian, a screwdriver, scissors for metal, a kitchen, a needle roller, a pencil.

How to make a round wall of plasterboard - a step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Base markup

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the partitions of partitions condensed in the angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the designs, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markup should be on the ceiling, but in the event that it does not work on it, we simply screw in a few screws the pattern itself in the same position, in which it lay down below.

You can also fasten a part cut from the billet from the same arc, the form of which received our template.

Step 2: Preparation of Guides

It is very important to properly bend the profile, which, despite what is made of metal, can easily take an arcuate form. To do this, measure the rear plane of the guide segment of 5 centimeters, making the mark.

Then they watched the transverse lines along which there are baccolor cuts.

Scissors cut from cuts one of the side of the profile.

The remaining wholeboard of Gohno in the arc necessary to us, turning with the line drawn on the floor.

Exactly the same profile is prepared for the ceiling.

Step 3: Making Template

At the first stage of the work, we measure the necessary radius of the bending of the wall (the minimum for the nine-millionth sheet is 50 centimeters), then proceed to the drawing of the template. As a workpiece, you can use a plywood sheet or even a piece of drywall, if there is a possibility of such waste.

As a result, a semicircle should be drawn on the sheet with the desired radius, which we drink with a hacksaw, resorting to the help of a building knife if it is plasterboard.

Step 4: Framework Fasteners

It should be verified that profiles are strictly vertically. So that in the process of the construction of the structure do not flush by profiles, draw on the floor and the ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Installation of external arc coating

So that plasterboard sheets bend without cracks and other flaws, you need to wet them and leave for 20 minutes to a little softening.

Then carefully raise the finishing material, which can now be torn as an ordinary wet cardboard, and apply to the extreme vertical frame of the frame. We screw the screws to the first profile, slightly bend, until the second rack is touched, screw again and we repeat the process until the plasterboard is fixed on all vertical frames of the frame.

Sheets better cut into strips or use waste, so less likely to cracking them in the flexion process.

Step 6: Soundproofing Laying

Insofar as round walls From the drywall, we still represent an unfinished design only with one-sided trim, we begin to lay the soundproofing plates from mineral wool between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should be tightly logged between vertical frame racks, partially entering the inside profiles.

Step 7: Installation of an internal arc cover

Laying sheets of plasterboard with inner The curved design is performed in the same way as with an external one, with a difference only one - now form the bending of the trim can be on an external coating. I wash the gypsumocarton strips, but now we ride a needle roller on them from the other side that will be outside. When the desired degree of bentness is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we carry the sheet inside the frame and fix the screws.

Surplus Cutting with a building knife or saw on the middle of the extreme interface with the following elements of the casing.

The second layer is dripping the whole moistened sheets, also cutting them with them in the middle of the vertical rack.

Lists from plasterboard can be:

• shelter any surface;
• hide the places that you spoil the interior, it usually concerns toilets and baths;
• make the shelves from drywall and place various items on them;
• install partitions by creating a full-fledged room;
• mount the niches under the TV or other structural elements.

For craftsmen who like to make their own hands and create comfort in the dwelling on their own, drywall combined with a metal profile has become simply an indispensable material, as it has amazing qualities:

1. Ecologicaly clean.
2. It gives the opportunity to change the space without the use of "wet" processes and quite quickly.
3. Durable.
4. Mounted on a frame of wood or metal.
5. There is an opportunity for a frameless installation.
6. It is suitable for any facing material.
7. Easily cutting.
8. The design of plasterboard walls provides the ability to use various configurations in the interior.
9. The cost of material is low.

So, if a passionate desire appeared in your home to create a cozy environment, then you will certainly come in handy step-by-step instruction on the installation of certain structural elements.

Gypsum and Metal Profile Box Device

Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet or get rid of the risers that their appearance spoil the interior of the room. With this task, the design of the drywall is cope, which is called the box.

This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive type of communications systems. No one sees her riser with hot or cold water, and he continues to perform his direct functions.

Depending on the wishes, the potential and location of the mains of the riser, you can close:

1. To the whole wall.
2. Only pipes.

In the first case, stitching the entire plane, reducing useful SquareAlthough you can mount the shelves or niches to store various items and things. In the second - we close only those areas where pipes are passing. This option Most acceptable, as the installation is running fast enough and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.

Thinking about how to visually remove the system maintenance Communications, it is necessary to remember - in case of its breakdown, it will have to break if not the whole design, then at least part. And it will spoil the decoration finish and will have to repaid repairs.

The box in the toilet can be built collapsible, this option is not so often applied, or set small doors (hatches) to access communication elements (valves, member, fittings).

Remember that most often the problem occurring connections - the smaller their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before the start of the work of work, spend a scrupulous inspection of the highway. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if available).

Do not be afraid of leaks and calmly close you can be sealed or welded connections. BUT threaded connections should be left open.

Materials and tools

If you need to independently close unattractive places, you need to know how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom and correctly pick up the material. Since the bathroom is always increased humidity, then not all materials are suitable for work. They must meet the established requirements:

• to moisture to be stable;
• have a slight weight;
• perform from environmentally friendly components.

Suppose the paper wallpaper in the bathroom you will have to change after a couple of months, it means that the tile is best suited for cladding. And where to fix it, if there is no foundation. It is best to use a metal profile, and not wooden bars. The latter will eventually begin to deteriorate, especially if you are in a wet environment. In this embodiment, it is necessary to choose a breed resistant to rotting and process the surface with an antiseptic.

But with the metal nothing happens. He will last long. Read more C. technical characteristics Profiles can be found in the article "". Pick the fasteners on the article "", they are produced by GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.

For work, you will need products that are depicted in the figure.

Cook from tools and fixtures.

Determination of design sizes

It is necessary to determine the location where the box for pipes will be installed. All measurements are performed using a roulette. Pre-on paper will make a drawing where future design will be depicted with all the elements and technological hatches. It is necessary to know that in places of their adjoining it is necessary to make gain from profiles. The future design should be reliable and strong.

Drawing box

If you have to close the pipes that are located in the angular part of the room, the box will have two faces, and if the riser is sewn in the middle of the wall - three.

In the drawing, mark all the types of connections, specify the profile installation scheme. Now you can accurately purchase the necessary items and correctly calculate the material for work.

The distance between the pipe and the box should not be less than 30 mm.

Marking

Before making a box of drywall, it is necessary to find the most protruding places of riser, which will define the border of the future design, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling with the help of the kitchen, we carry out perpendicular to the walls. The rectangle that turned out should close all the protrusions of the riser. Next from the point I lower the plumb and the touch mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we will carry out perpendicular to the walls.

Now connect the lines on the wall and get a straight line to which we install the rack profile.

Montage Karcasa

To mount the profile wall, taking into account the finishing materials so that they cannot be close to the pipes.

Drill sew holes where the plastic dowels are clogged with a hammer. Stretch profile (27x28) with screws are attached to the wall, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and the floor. Install the front edge of the box. It turns out at the intersection of the guide profiles on the ceiling and the floor. This is done using a barbecue or self-drawing.

If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or the height of it is more than 1,500 mm, it is necessary to install the transverse jumpers between vertical racks. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as ribs of stiffness for the design. In addition, they are then mounted plasterboard sheets.

All places of attachment should be placed on one straight line with the formation of a solid solid plane for the structures of the structure, otherwise there is probably the occurrence of overcasts.

The drywall box in the bathroom and the toilet is collected by the same principle. Installation It is fast, the construction is compact, the distance from the profile and to the pipe is not less than 50-60 mm.

Installation of plasterboard

Before closing the pipes with plasterboard, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box closes the strips, and not pieces. Pre-cut off the side faces, their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot perform abroad rack. To do this, you can take advantage of the outgoing ruble.

Now I donate exact size The remaining edge and cut off the plasterboard band so that it finds it on the edges of the side strips. Gypsum Carton to Profile Freedomless Samors (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main racks. Just do not forget about revision hatches. They can be bought in the store, manufacturers offer big choice various sizes. And how to cut holes in the drywall, you will learn in another section of the same article. On this, the installation of the box is completed.

After they made a box of plasterboard with their own hands, you can start it to put it. And which finishing materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tile, paint or plaster - choose to you.

We make shelves from plasterboard

Working with a plasterboard sheet, it is not always possible to avoid waste: made a mistake in the calculations of volumes or changed the project during repair. Different reasons can be. Some stores are ready to take large pieces, but it is not so lucky to everyone, it is rather an exception to the rules.

If you are a master person, do not hurry to turn into the garage of the remnants, and decorate the interior of your home. Make the situation more comfortable and get rid of old furniture. Believe me, the shelf of plasterboard will definitely find its use in the living room, bedroom or hallway and can:

• be an element of the decor in the room;
• storage location, books, interior accessories;
• pedestal for collectible items;

The shelf under TV from plasterboard is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use the sheet in two layers. However, modern TVs are not so heavy, and beautiful shelf can be an ideal place For a plasma panel.

On how to make shelves from drywall itself, we will tell you in this section. The whole process is made up of certain stages.

We need tools.

Materials will need:

1. Plasterboard, preferably a thickness of 12.5 mm. If you are planning to install the shelf indoors with high humiditythen you should take moisture-resistant - G Clac (gypsum moisture resistant).
2. Metal profiles - guides and racking.
3. Fasteners - screws, screws, dowels, anchor-wedge, special fasteners.

Drawing

Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions will be done by the shelf, whether it should be strengthened with additional jumpers or not. If heavy items be standing on it, the framework must be strong enough. Next, imagine how it will look, and transfer their wishes to paper. Do not forget about the exact dimensions.

From this depends on the scope of the material used.

You need to start with simpler designs - from the manufacture of straight shelves. And in the future it is already experimenting with more complex configurations and projects.

Marking

After determining the place where the shelf of plasterboard should be, we begin marking. In the work, use a roulette, a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the finished product.

Unfortunately, modern apartments They cannot boast of smooth surfaces of walls, horizontal floors and ceilings, ideal angles. Therefore, the construction level should be with you constantly.

Dimensions set aside strictly according to the drawing. From how horizontal and vertical lines will be performed correctly, the quality of the future design depends, its appearance and strength.

Installation shelves

On the outlined milling grid, you can already install a profile. The process itself depends on the configuration of the structure. First, the horizontal or vertical parts are mounted. According to the plan, which is depicted in the subsection "Drawing", we start working with a vertical counter.

To do this, drill a hole under a dowel, with their help we will fix the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. They should be three or more per item. Level check the position and score the part with an anchor-wedge 6x40. Between themselves we combine self-drawers or a rod with a profile of the guide (27x60). On the right side, screw the plasterboard band with a step of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent, is going in the same way.

Next, we mount the frame between the vertical racks, for this, on the marked lines, the rack of the rack profile, and the guide that adjoins the plasterboard sheet, fix the screws around the edges, srolling the gypsum and the rear profile to the profile. At the same time, in the frame of that part on which the sheet is fixed (and in exactly which these self-tapping screws are twisted), the profile in a horizontal position should be laid - as on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part carrier design Shelves. So the shelves will be securely and tightly, it will be promoted by plasterboard blanks, screwed to the frame from the second side.

Ultimately, the installation process of the shelf from drywall will end with such a design that you can see in the photo, or another you think of yourself.

Next, you can put the seams, close the holes from the hats of the screws, priming the surface and sneak the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled by mirror panels, use other materials, or simply cover the paint to the tone color Gamma. premises.

Screen profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces are needed using a dowel-nail or anchor-wedges, if it is a solid surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fastes, and if the surface of the drywall is to use other hardware, which you can read in the article ". When you have a wooden base, then you need to take a tape for work.

Mounting the shelves from drywall can be indoors where the repair has already been made. True, in this case you have to work more accurately, especially with marking, because the corrections are fraught with the fact that the marks will be visible on the facing. Work is performed in the same order, only cutting drywall and profiles are better not in the renovated room. Much easier will go the installation process if the work is performed during the repair. In this option, you can observe all the design rules, and the new element is harmonious and effectively fit into the interior.

How and what to cut drywall

1. Gypsum Candel

2. Cardboard shell

As can be seen in the figure, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself fragile material. But thanks to special additives and strengthening from two sides by cardboard, which is saturated special compositionThe sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced by GOST 6266-97, with its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article "".

Working with this material is easy and interesting. Can:

• independently make the shelf or niche for a TV from drywall;
• install a curly septum;
• hide what I don't really want to see;
• for everyone to review the things that are proud of.

To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, just need to have a fantasy, manufacturing information and be able to handle drywall. As for the latter, the ability is to know how and how to cut it. Indeed, in the repair process, it is necessary to cut off the broken lines, to paint the sheet in a straight or tailoring holes.

To cut drywall, need:

• pencil,
• roulette,
• role corner,
• preferably reiser,
• if there is a large amount of work - the riding branches.

With this material for work it is better not to use a marker or pen, namely a pencil, its traces are not visible after putty, which you can not say about the listed objects. The planer is needed to align the curves of the edges of GLC. The surface for working with a drywall sheet should be smooth - most often it is a stack of sheets, the floor, and ideally a large table.

Now about the tools. The blades should be sharp, they must be kept perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case you will succeed with even and smooth.

In a straight line

For this purpose, a special knife for drywall or a conventional construction knife (stationery) will be useful. These tools are good because they are regulated by the length of the blade. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.

Before cutting a sheet, carefully perform measurements with a roulette or ruler. Pencil put mark on the sheet and connect their common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, spend the knife along the planned line. The discharge depth should be such that the blade of the knife does not reach the second layer of cardboard.

It is enough to cut only cardboard, and the gypsum without effort will break through the cut line.

Now on the edge of the table we move the sheet and clutch the cutting line slightly with a fist. Carefully bend, it breaks along the door line, and the half of the sheet is held in the whole layer of cardboard. FROM back side Sheet cut through a knife, and we clean the rimpted ruble plate.

Curvilinear forms

The most practical tool for these works can be called an electrolybiz. True, you can use a hack or knife, but the sections will be rude, you will have to spend a lot of time to bring them in order. Lobzik will cope with any curvilinear forms.

Pre-sheet lay down in such a way that the cut place is located on the weight or between two items on a slight distance from each other.

When working the blade of the instrument, nothing must interfere.

The pencil is the contour of the figure of the figure and, previously putting the means of individual protection, because in the process there will be a lot of dust, we begin the cutting sheet. The cut line is high-quality, smooth and smooth.

Round forms

Often falls in the drywall cut the circle. Of course, they can be cut using an electric bike or a building knife. But the final result is unlikely to please, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent to work. More convenient to make holes under the socket or light bulbs using a crown that is attached to the cartridge of the electric drill. Such sets are sold in any construction store and have different diameters.

Pre-on the sheet produce the necessary markup - the location of the future hole - and wealth. We choose the crown in size, fasten it in the cartridge drill. The drill place in the center of the hole and start drilling.

To get high-quality work, you should cut on medium speed, not in a hurry, smoothly pressing the drill. With a strong nazhma, the nozzle will be stuck in the gypsum.

Rectangular shapes

Often, working with plasterboard, you have to cut in a sheet rectangular holes (under sockets, technical hatches). Especially often it is necessary in the manufacture of boxes that closed risers and pipes. For this, hacksaw is useful.

Note that it is necessary to take a web for work with the sheets of plasterboard. He has a smaller teeth, so work will be performed faster and better.

The sheet is put on the support, we make the necessary measurements and on the planned line, where it is required to cut off drywall, we make feeding knife. We start working from any angle and further drink the right form.

As if we did not try, it is not always possible to make the edges of the drywall smooth. This defect affects not only an aesthetic look, but also on the quality of the work performed. Details are easy to fit together, disrupting the integrity of the structure.

For work with plasterboard, the riding plans will be useful. This professional instrument It is worth buying everyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and needed for high-quality processing edges of the cut. It is performed according to GOST 21445-84.

It's easy enough to work. It is necessary to put a sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - end up, can be put on the side. We install the planer on the shear cut and take them along the entire length. It is not necessary to harm on the handle, since with strong pressure the instrument will delve into the plasterboard and you have to remove a large cut or the end is the uneven end.

Movements should be as easy as possible in two or three passages. The plane surface must often be cleaned from the gypsum - turn the tool and slightly tapping the palm on the case.

Make a niche in the wall of plasterboard

Well designed and high-quality mounted niches in a plasterboard wall may replace furniture headset. They are executed:

• in horizontal or vertical execution;
• in outdoor versionwhere there is an opportunity to post decorative fireplace, vase with flowers, decoration details with a height of more than 1 m;
• on the whole wall or only a small plot;
• with backlit and without it;
• closed either open.

This constructive element May be different, its configuration depends on your fiction and wishes, and the design can add a plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.

In addition, a niche of drywall is not only an element of the decor, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, engineering communications or remove objects from foreign eyes, which are not necessarily known to others. Sometimes the owners so skillfully use such a privilege that they can safely change on vacation without worrying about their jewels. Or skillfully masked technical systems Life support at home.

Instruments

In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools for work.

Drawing

It is clear that not everyone finished the construction university or has experience with drawings. But any designs of drywall that you plan to make with your own hands imply that they will be performed strictly in size. So, you definitely need a drawing on a scale. No need to master computer programs Or cause a drawer from the architectural bureau. Sufficiently sketching the scheme, specify all the sizes and constructive features. It is impossible to make a niche without a scheme. Let it present a simple drawing, but the size of the wall, the location of the heating batteries, furniture will be indicated, electric socketsIf it is necessary on the planned project. With a proposed drawing, all cases of construct alteration are excluded.

Sketch of thoughts on paper or "drawing"

Without spectacular lighting, Niche makes the impression of a dark hole. So you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or set the backlight, which visually expand the space of the niche.

Think about the location points of the lighting devices. All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when counting the volume of materials. Specify the size and depth of the niche. Be sure to take into account the location of the furniture so that it does not overlap the opening.

By drawing up a drawing, be sure to consider the thickness of the profile. After all, its size is the component of the dimensions of the future building in height and width.

Planning a niche to establish household appliances - Pay attention to the size of the design. Space such a niche Design a little more sizes Devices - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.

Marking

It is performed strictly in size and with building level. I celebrate the middle pencil on the wall and already draw the entire drawing with the length and width of the structure from it.

If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly follow that equal distance remains at the edges. When symmetry violating symmetry, niche will not fit into the interior of the room.

Scheduating the contours of the extraction design on the wall, you already know, on what lines you need to mount the guide profiles.

Maximum detailed markup should be provided. On the wall, specify all the marks for fastening the frame of the metal profile.

At this stage, think about the tip of the electrocabilities and the setting of sockets. Plan your backlit shelves - Provide additional equipment.

Montage Karcasa

Cutting profiles in size, start collecting the frame.

Each profile is tested by the level, because the slightest discrepancy ruptures the entire design.

The guide profile is fastened with a dowel around the perimeter of the drawing moved to the wall, in the depths of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The step is 400-600 mm.

self-taverns or rod. In places of future shelves, we install jumpers from the racking profile. Our niche from drywall do with their own hands should turn out with a wide shelf, which will quietly fit the additional and main equipment that we plan to place there. The frame is quite durable, and the profile is reliable.

Installation of plasterboard

Now it is necessary to secure sheets to the profile. We do this using self-samples (35-45 mm) with a step of 250 mm. The head of the fastening element we cut in a sheet of 1 mm. It is impossible less, because it will interfere with putty, and no longer recommended - it can crack the sheet. Edge plasterboard sheet There must be a flue with the profile, the surplus is removed.

As a result, it turned out a niche of a plasterboard with backlit. The cost of beauty and comfort is always justified, because they are a long-term cash investigation. Therefore, do not regret money. After the cutting of the frame of the frame of plasterboard, putty and primer, the surface is ready for the further production of finishing works.

Multi-level plasterboard ceiling is modern solutionwhich will give the room to the room will make it interesting. This ceiling has its own indisient advantages. He hides all the plates and irregular drops, makes the ceiling perfectly smooth. Under the plates you can hide all communications, so for the electrical wiring and removing air elements of air conditioners, it is not necessary to make the shoes in the walls. And if you place modern, lungs under the ceiling insulating materialsThis will additionally warm the room and improve sound insulation. This ceiling can be given the most sophisticated and elegant forms. You can easily install a variety of lamps - point and suspended.

Materials for work

Plasterboard is an environmentally friendly and non-combustible material. Comprises gypsum Platecovered with a layer of cardboard. The ceiling drywall is a thickness of 8 mm, quite flexible and lightweight, it is easy to cut with a construction knife. Set two-level ceiling Do with your own hands can even beginners.

For work you will need metal profileswhich secure plasterboard plates. They are two species - guide profiles and ribbed ribs. You should also purchase special self-tapping screws.

Choose form

Design of plasterboard "Eat" the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second is 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively smooth, then they can serve as the first level to which curious plasterboard protrusions can be fixed.

On the ceiling, smooth and rounded elements look very well, but strict geometric lines will fit completely harmoniously, for example, the protruding threshold around the perimeter of the ceiling, with the manufacture of which even newcomer can cope. It is enough to work with drywall, a poem even a simple protrusion can be rounded in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. For such a threshold, you can hide the cornice, and then the illusion of the curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. There is an opportunity to hide electric wiring and set a number of point lights over certain zones or throughout the perimeter.

The desired form of the ceiling is first born on paper, as a sketch. At which, in addition to the geometric shape, it is necessary to note the location of the vertical racks, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In rounded corners, the racks must be arranged more tight. After the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

Mounting frame starts with a lower level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from the guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by examining profile in places of bending with metal scissors and bending it around the circle. Connect the shape-defined profiles with racks with ribbies of such lengths to which the second ceiling level should be omitted. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface according to a given contour on special suspensions for plasterboard "crabs", with which you can adjust the height. The suspensions are located at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners, the design is fixed rigidly, you can add additional backups. The frame during installation necessarily measure the level. After fastening the basic design, the circuit of our future ceiling, set the rack profiles at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also with a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes transverse jumpers are not fixed, so that they can be moved, configuring under the fastening of the jacks of plasterboard.

The suspensions are attached to the ceiling with two dowels with a screw of 8 * 80. Profiles are connected to each other with screws for metal 3.5 * 11.

Installation of sheets

After the frame is assembled and fitted in terms of the level, you can fill the cavities with insulating material, fiberglass or foam sheets and pave electrical wiring. Then mount the ceiling. Sheets should be pre-cutting on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut hole holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave the allowances of several centimeters along rounding line.

It is better to trim on the spot and remove unnecessary than getting the unwanted gap between the plates. So that when installing it was easier to be bending plasterboard, covering smooth and rounded elements, the part can be cut from the back side by transverse slots and make the material on them. Some advise for this purpose just to shortly smoke the sheets.

We proceed to the installation of the plates using the self-tapping screws with fine threads, you can take a size of 3.5 * 25 and 3.5 * 32. The operation is best done by a screwdriver. Self-tapping screws, slightly having a hat into the surface.

It is unacceptable that he passes through the sheet completely, if it happened, you need to retreat several centimeters and remake the mount.

The step of fasteners is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by attaching it at least two screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to get neat joints and cutting the material. If two cropped plates fall into the joint, their edge with the front part should be considered a slightly with a knife, so that in the future it is perfectly aligned with stucco. After the main array of the ceiling is fixed, the threshold is starting. Initially, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the bottom plates.

When all stoves are installed, the ceiling is ground with universal primer. After complete drying, all the seams are sinking with a sickle mounting ribbon, and all the outer angles are fixed and aligned with special corners. For smooth lines Metal corners use, and for smooth and rounded - special flexible plastic corner. The technique of its attachment is simple, the layer of plaster is smeared to the angle of construction, into which the corner is combined, and speaking through the holes of the surplus of the solution are cleaned with a spatula. After drying, the second layer of plaster angle is finally removed. All hats of self-tapping screws should also be sharpened. Previously check - there are no protruding, and twist them manually.

Log in all seams in a slope with a stove. After all the leveling elements of plaster dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is dried, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and deteriorate from the irregularities and influx of plaster with a construction grinding fine grater. If the holes for point luminaires were not previously made in the plates, they can be cut into a special drill-glass of the desired diameter, the electrical wiring wires are pulled into the holes.

At this stage, the ceiling baguette is lined on special glue or plaster. After that, the entire surface is ground, preparing under painting. Staining different ceiling levels in different colorsIt is advisable to smoke the joints of the joints with a special paper sticky ribbon, which will exclude the inclination of the paint. First, paint the ceiling, and then baguettes. After the end of the work, point lights are mounted, and the suspension is installed using special dowels or plasterboard mounts.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.

Most builders noted that during the repair of an apartment or at home one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling of plaster or any other material.

It bothers the rapid performance of the work and the irregularities of various tiled overlaps, and the fact that the angles are almost never correspond to each other, and many other details. Hide all these flaws today is difficult enough. And rather, not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider the step-by-step instructions for the installation of a ceiling of plasterboard, which has a huge amount of advantages, ranging from ease of installation and ending with acceptable prices.

What instruments will need?

If you think about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then you should prioritize various preparatory to the main work of work, namely: it is important to purchase construction materials necessary for quick installation, as well as prepare all tools.

In order to establish an independent two-level ceiling of drywall you will need:

• Water type level in order to accurately mark the place in which the guide level will be installed.

• For rapidly drill various holes, any perforator.
• Scissors that can be cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Schuropvuth for fastening GLK, as well as profile.
• Ruleta

Installation of carcass

The first thing you need to do is choose a place for future markup of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Tags should be applied after in all tanks water will be at one level.

How much exactly to retreat from the construction ceiling of centimeters to solve only to you, however, most builders offer to see the photo of the plasterboard ceiling to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After completing the work of the first stage, that is, after the markup will be made on each wall, you can move to the drill of several holes under the dowel. For this, the perforator is used.

After the installation of the guide profile is completed using the cooked roulette directly around the perimeter, it is necessary to make a mark with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to make enough simple design, consisting only from one level, then there is no need to install popular C-shaped profiles immediately in two directions. It is enough to make marking exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can move to the fastening of the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct suspensions, you can move to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent ceiling over the sheets.

Ceiling decoration

Today it is proposed a huge number of most different ways Ceiling decoration. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry in stores, you can find many different decorative materials that will allow decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend exclusively from taste preferences and financial opportunities. Someone prefers gypsum modeling, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of trends in fashion, because they quickly pass, but you definitely live with new repairs alone and not two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you an exceptionally joy from look at him and the room has created a feeling of comfort.

Once you decide what the perfect ceiling after repair looks like for you, it is important to estimate whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is positive, you can safely go to the store building materials And choose what will allow you to quickly realize your dreams about the perfect ceiling into reality.

There is nothing hard in the creation technology suspended ceilings Using drywall.

It is only necessary to remember that before doing something, it is necessary to think about several times, since such a ceiling is not installed for a year and not even five years.

Note!

Stock Foto Ceiling of plasterboard

Note!

The ceiling is paid to the ceiling, are used to embody the designer idea a variety of solutions. Each of the selected options is characterized by the benefits and disadvantages. Enjoy popular plasterboard ceiling with illumination.

Plasterboard ceiling with illumination - in demand designer solution. The use of a backlit plasterboard solves a lot of issues relative to the lighting of the room, directly adjusting the power of the light.

The installation of the designs of GLCs with illumination has a number of positive:

• acquisition of a smooth ceiling coating;
• preparation is not required before installing the plasterboard ceiling;
• easy to hide communications;
• created multi-level structures with illumination;
• properly selected lighting will emphasize the interior of the room;
• the ceiling decoration by plasterboard embodies the design of any complexity with lighting, built-in niches for highlighting;
• beautiful sound and thermal insulation;
• the plasterboard ceiling is installed in a dry way, which means the time is not spent on the drying of the solution.

The ceiling overlap from GLC has and cons:

• the ceiling will decrease by 10 cm;
• setting designs from sheets of plasterboard is simple, but requires experience with electricity.

Important! Skills of working with electricity - mandatory moment. Since the proper fastening of the plasterboard coating will save the construction from an unexpected closure, and therefore, from fire.

When you plan to build a design from GCL backlit, pay attention to such moments:

• lighting (backlight) is better done for some zones;
• think up to the smallest details of the orientation of illumination;
• properly located illumination will help adjust the proportionality of the room. Due to the direction of light, you can visually expand the room;
• if there are different full-featured zones in the room, then it is better to install separate lighting devices;
• if the room is small in size, then you should not choose multi-level structures;
• before securing the ceiling of plasterboard sheets, make a clear drawing of the design.

Types of lighting devices

To properly make the choice of lamps for illumination, you need to know their types.

Main types:

• point;
• lED lighting devices;
• lamp daylight;
• lED ribbons;
• fiber fiber lamps.

Spotlights. The popularity of this kind of lighting devices is growing every year. Point lighting is a multitude of low-power lighting devices.

The main advantages:

• if necessary, partial lighting;
• uniform lighting of the room;
• economy;
• thanks to compact dimensions, they will harmoniously fit into the interior;
• point lighting devices dispel light at a low angle;
• quality of light;
• lifetime;
• fine color palette Light feed;
• availability.

Point lamps have a number of shortcomings:

• it is difficult to independently make the desired design and direct organization;
• many species of point lighting devices require a special design;
• when spotlight Overheating is possible deformation of the flow.

Daylight lamps are used for non-residential premises. The advantage of this kind of lighting appliances is the availability and simplicity of installation, long service life, efficiency.

Fiber fiber lights - innovation in the world of lighting appliances. Thanks to them, it is possible to realize the bold design ideas: the starry sky moving overflows. The ceiling device with such lamps is expensive pleasure and time consuming.

LED ribbons - a common method of decorating the ceiling. Device lED ribbon Provides the installation of a niche from GLC. Niche is a kind of protrusion, which is mounted with lighting devices.

There are two types of LED tape:

• one-color;
• full color.

LED tape has a number of positive:

• divided into segments;

Important! When cutting the tape, the functionality remains unchanged.

• reliability;
• economy;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• easy operation and installation. The luminary layer fixes the tape on the surface.

How to unmistakably choose a LED ribbon?

The tape is used both in a closed room and on the street: for this, sealed and lesome led tape are provided.

Important! By mounting such a kind lighting In a room with a high percentage of humidity, choose a hermetic material. When such a ribbon is used to decorate the purpose of decorating - the leakage is suitable.

When choosing a LED tape, pay attention to whether it is moisture-proof or not.

Ledge of plasterboard sheets

Equipment of overlapping suspended construction From GLC provides work on lighting and illumination.

The overlap of plasterboard sheets with illuminations has a number of positive:

• Special role thermal radiation does not play. Since plasterboard and profile used to create a skeleton, heat-resistant.
• The stability of the structure allows you to set the lighting devices to the frame profile.
• Thanks to the plasterboard coating, you can hide all the shortcomings of the room.

Important! Before assessing the coating of GLC, find out the exact location of all lighting devices.

Location illumination

Before mounting, consider the location of the power supply lED backlight. Since this element has quite large dimensions, it is worth considering its heating. Based on this, fix the power supply is needed in an easily accessible place.

Think up the desired nuance - heat removal. Before starting work, let down all electric wires To the power source.

Montaja rules

• • Basic ceiling to enjoy plasterboard.
  • Constructs the desired design The second level for directly mounting the backlight.
  • The fastening of the second tier is produced to the guide through plasterboard. This nuance can not be skipped, because the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Since plasterboard will not hold the second level of structure without insurance.
  • Make marking on the wall. It is necessary for fastening metal specialsprofil. Dejoint from the ceiling is worth relative to the size of the future structure. If the markup is done correctly, as a result, it turns out the correct rectangle.

  Important! For marking, it is necessary to use the level and roulette to properly outline the lines for special project, from which the skeleton will be formed - the base for the protrusion.

  • Work on the installation of a carcass for drywall must begin with a guide (ceiling) special project. Profile fastening is performed by screws (step 30 - 40 cm). Profile shelves are directed from the coating of the book and parallel to the floor on the wall.

• Clearly observing the desired format, cut and the horizontally segments and rack are trimmed. For these purposes, a CD profile is used.
• Slices of primary profile are attached to the starting special price of the coating after 40 -50 cm. When carrying out this work, it is worth clearly monitoring that the focus of the pieces is a uniform distance from the ceiling to the baseline.
• Wall-mounted special information must be connected with suspensions from the main profile;
• After mounting into the frame of the desired ceiling specials, the base will acquire rigidity.

Facing a skeleton of the structure of plasterboard

The veneer of the central coating is made by sheets of plasterboard.

After the skeleton, which will be attached to the coating of GCC, is installed, it is necessary to strip it with plasterboard:

• sheets cut down by purchasing the necessary dimensions;
• ready plasterboard is attached to skeleton with self-draws;
• after fixing the GLK, the joints are sampled by a special reinforcing ribbon.
• all the place of the joints and place of attachment by self-drawing are put off.

Important! When the installation is completed, you can go to the installation of wiring. For safety, electrical wiring must be hidden in plastic boxes. The resulting boxes are fastened with self-drawing to basic coating.

After carrying out the necessary manipulations with the wiring, you can move to the trimming of the protrusion of plasterboard. Facing begins with setting the gypsum cabarton strip on a niche shelf. For these purposes, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver will be required. Facing the base coating is made in most cases solid sheets. The trim of the box is made by narrow lanes of drywall, which are fixed by self-draws. After that, the vertical part of the structure is trimmed. The desired segment of the sheet is attached to the racks - suspensions and guide to the ceiling. Plasterboard must be installed so that its joints are on racks. After that, the horizontal part of the structure is trimmed. The end stage of the installation is the installation of the side, whose task is to hide the backlight. It should be noted that the side (the upper part of it) must be from the ceiling of at least 50 mm.

The final stage of the facing of the protrusion is to put the protrusions and seams formed from the screws. The existing joints must be sealed with a reinforcing grid. The necessary manipulations with seams proceed into several stages. First apply putty with a small layer. After drying the putty, the surface is grinning. The procedure is repeated, but already apply the finish (smaller) putty.

After that, the design is ground and color.

Installing backlight

If the choice fell onto an open ledge, then it is best to take the LED tape as a backlight. Since the tape is rather flexible and can take any form.

Before proceeding to work on the installation of the LED tape, it must be prepared:

• Cut the fragment of the ribbon of the desired length. It is necessary to cut the ribbon only in special places that are noted additional marking.
• Pieces of tape can be connected to a single whole using special connectors. If there is no such device, all manipulations make a soldering iron. To do this, it is necessary to solder the contacts of the tape.

Important! If the sections are more than 7m, the tape is better to connect in parallel.

The backlight will be uniform if:

• when connecting the LED ribbons, polarity is taken into account;
• when the color tape is connected, the desired controller is used.

Manufacturers apply a self-adhesive basis on the lighting devices so that they were easier to install. Before purchasing devices, decide on the color, since the color palette is extensive. There are RGB ribbons. The advantage of such products is a color gamut, the ability to independently adjust the brightness of the glow. Minus - cost.

Dimmers are used to transform the brightness of the glow. Dimmers should not be selected individually to the selected tape type, as they are suitable for all kinds. Tapes are distinguished by the number of LEDs on one meter. Than more quantity, the more intense glow.

Connecting backlight

LED tapes work at a voltage of 12 V. If the lighting device is connected to the standard line it simply burns.

To competently choose the desired power supply, make calculations. The power of one meter of the LED tape is indicated by the manufacturer. To calculate the specified power, multiply the LED tape. The resulting number and meets the required power supply.

Important! The correctly selected power supply will allow a long time and correctly operate the lighting device.

Note that the length of the LED tape should not exceed 5 m. If the length is greater, in this case, the segments of 5 m connect in parallel to each other.

LED illumination of the ceiling of plasterboard - interesting designer reception

Ceiling coatings From the drywall with illumination can be made independently. To do this, learn questions about the installation and installation of the backlight. Skillfully performed ceiling of plasterboard skillfully emphasize the interior.